Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第52章

Lateintheafternoontherailroadwasre-opened,andIcameherewithMr。Wilkinson,gladtosettledowntoaperiodofrestandeaseunderthishospitableroof。Theafternoonwasbrightandsunny,andTokiyowaslookingitsbest。Thelonglinesofyashikislookedhandsome,thecastlemoatwassofullofthegiganticleavesofthelotus,thatthewaterwashardlyvisible,thegrassembankmentsoftheuppermoatwereabrilliantgreen,thepinesontheirsummitsstoodoutboldlyagainsttheclearsky,thehillonwhichtheLegationstandslookeddryandcheerful,and,betterthanall,Ihadamostkindlywelcomefromthosewhohavemadethishousemyhomeinastrangeland。

Tokiyoistranquil,thatis,itisdisturbedonlybyfearsforthericecrop,andbythefallinsatsu。Themilitarymutineershavebeentried,popularrumoursaystortured,andfifty-twohavebeenshot。Thesummerhasbeentheworstforsomeyears,andnowdarkheat,moistheat,andnearlyceaslessrainprevail。Peoplehavebeen“rainedup“intheirsummerquarters。“Surelyitwillchangesoon,“peoplesay,andtheyhavesaidthesamethingforthreemonths。

FineWeather——CremationinJapan——TheGovernorofTokiyo——AnAwkwardQuestion——AnInsignificantBuilding——EconomyinFuneralExpenses——SimplicityoftheCremationProcess——TheLastofJapan。

Ihavespentthelasttendayshere,insettledfineweather,suchasshouldhavebeguntwomonthsagoiftheclimatehadbehavedasitought。Thetimehasflownbyinexcursions,shopping,selectlittledinner-parties,farewellcalls,andvisitsmadewithMr。

ChamberlaintothefamousgrovesandtemplesofIkegami,wheretheBuddhistbishopandpriestsentertainedusinoneoftheguest-

rooms,andtoEnoshimaandKamakura,“vulgar“resortswhichnothingcanvulgarisesolongasFujisantowersabovethem。

Iwillmentionbutone“sight,“whichissofaroutofthebeatentrackthatitwasonlyafterprolongedinquirythatitswhereaboutswasascertained。AmongBuddhists,speciallyoftheMontosect,cremationwaslargelypractisedtillitwasforbiddenfiveyearsago,assomesupposeindeferencetoEuropeanprejudices。Threeyearsago,however,theprohibitionwaswithdrawn,andinthisshortspaceoftimethenumberofbodiesburnedhasreachednearlyninethousandannually。SirH。ParkesappliedforpermissionformetovisittheKirigayaground,oneoffive,andafterafewdelaysitwasgrantedbytheGovernorofTokiyoatMr。Mori’srequest,soyesterday,attendedbytheLegationlinguist,I

presentedmyselfatthefineyashikioftheTokiyoFu,andquiteunexpectedlywasadmittedtoanaudienceoftheGovernor。Mr。

Kusamotoisawell-bredgentleman,andhisfaceexpressestheenergyandabilitywhichhehasgivenproofofpossessing。HewearshisEuropeanclothesbecomingly,andinattitude,aswellasmanner,iseasyanddignified。AfteraskingmeagreatdealaboutmynortherntourandtheAinos,heexpressedawishforcandidcriticism;butasthisintheEastmustnotbetakenliterally,I

merelyventuredtosaythattheroadslagbehindtheprogressmadeinotherdirections,uponwhichheentereduponexplanationswhichdoubtlessapplytothepastroad-historyofthecountry。Hespokeofcremationandits“necessity“inlargecities,andterminatedtheinterviewbyrequestingmetodismissmyinterpreterandkuruma,ashewasgoingtosendmetoMeguroinhisowncarriagewithoneoftheGovernmentinterpreters,addingverycourteouslythatitgavehimpleasuretoshowthisattentiontoaguestoftheBritishMinister,“forwhosecharacterandimportantservicestoJapanhehasahighvalue。“

Anhou

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