Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第29章

lookinganimalsinbraveryofscarletclothandlacquerandfringednetsofleather,andmanystrawwispsandropes,withGothicroofsforsaddles,anddependentpanniersoneachside,carryingtwograveandstately-lookingchildrenineach,andsometimesafatherorafifthchildonthetopofthepack-saddle。

IwassofarfromwellthatIwasobligedtosleepatthewretchedvillageofAbukawa,inaloftalivewithfleas,wherethericewastoodirtytobeeaten,andwherethehouse-master’swife,whosatforanhouronmyfloor,wassorelyafflictedwithskindisease。

Theclayhouseshavedisappearedandthevillagesarenowbuiltofwood,butAbukawaisanantiquated,ramshackleplace,proppedupwithpostsandslantingbeamsprojectingintotheroadwayfortheentanglementofunwarypassengers。

Thevillagesmithwasopposite,buthewasnotamanofponderousstrength,norweretherethosewondrousflightsandscintillationsofsparkswhichwerethejoyofourchildhoodintheTattenhallforge。Afireofpowderedcharcoalonthefloor,alwaysbeingtrimmedandreplenishedbyaleanandgrimysatellite,amanstillleanerandgrimier,clothedingogglesandagirdle,alwayssittinginfrontofit,heatingandhammeringironbarswithhishands,withaclinkwhichwentonlateintothenight,andblowinghisbellowswithhistoes;barsandpiecesofrustyironpinnedonthesmokywalls,andagroupofidlemenwatchinghisskilfulmanipulation,werethesightsoftheAbukawasmithy,andkeptmethralledinthebalcony,thoughthewholeclotheslesspopulationstoodforthewholeeveninginfrontofthehousewithasilent,open-mouthedstare。

Earlyinthemorningthesamemelancholycrowdappearedinthedismaldrizzle,whichturnedintoatremendoustorrent,whichhaslastedforsixteenhours。Lowhills,broadricevalleysinwhichpeoplearepuddlingthericeasecondtimetokilltheweeds,badroads,prettyvillages,muchindigo,fewpassengers,werethefeaturesoftheday’sjourney。AtMoriokaandseveralothervillagesinthisregionInoticedthatifyouseeonelarge,high,well-builthouse,standinginenclosedgrounds,withalookofwealthaboutit,itisalwaysthatofthesakebrewer。Abushdenotesthemanufactureaswellasthesaleofsake,andtheseareofallsorts,fromthemangybitoffirwhichhasseenlongservicetothevigoroustrussofpineconstantlyrenewed。ItiscuriousthatthisshouldformerlyhavebeenthesignofthesaleofwineinEngland。

Thewindandrainweresomethingfearfulallthatafternoon。I

couldnotride,soItrampedonfootforsomemilesunderanavenueofpines,throughwaterafootdeep,and,withmypaperwaterproofsoakedthrough,reachedToyokahalfdrownedandverycold,toshiveroverahibachiinacleanloft,hungwithmydrippingclothes,whichhadtobeputonwetthenextday。By5a。m。allToyokaassembled,andwhileItookmybreakfastIwasnotonlythe“cynosure“oftheeyesofallthepeopleoutside,butofthoseofaboutfortymorewhowerestandinginthedoma,lookinguptheladder。Whenaskedtodepartbythehouse-master,theysaid,“It’sneitherfairnorneighbourlyinyoutokeepthisgreatsighttoyourself,seeingthatourlivesmaypasswithoutagainlookingonaforeignwoman;“sotheywereallowedtoremain!I。

TheFatiguesofTravelling——TorrentsandMud——Ito’sSurliness——TheBlindShampooers——ASupposedMonkeyTheatre——ASuspendedFerry——A

DifficultTransit——PerilsontheYonetsurugawa——ABoatmanDrowned——

NocturnalDisturbances——ANoisyYadoya——Storm-boundTravellers——

Hai!Hai!——MoreNocturnalDisturbancesODATE,July29。

IhavebeensufferingsomuchfrommyspinethatIhavebeenunabletotravelmorethansevenoreightmilesdailyforseveraldays,andeventhatwithgreatdifficulty。Itrymyo

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