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EvenGinsainomawasnotParadiseafterdark，andIwasactuallydriventobedearlybythenumberofmosquitoes。Itoisinanexcellenthumouronthistour。Likeme，helikesthefreedomoftheHokkaido。Heismuchmorepoliteandagreeablealso，andveryproudoftheGovernor’sshomon，withwhichheswaggersintohotelsandTransportOffices。Inevergetonsowellaswhenhearrangesforme。Saturdaywasgreyandlifeless，andtherideofsevenmilesherealongasandyroadthroughmonotonousforestandswamp，withthevolcanoononesideandlowwoodedhillsontheother，waswearisomeandfatiguing。Isawfivelargesnakesallinaheap，andanumbermoretwistingthroughthegrass。Therearenovillages，butseveralverypoortea-houses，andontheothersideoftheroadlongshedswithtroughshollowedlikecanoesoutofthetrunksoftrees，containinghorsefood。Herenobodywalks，andthemenrideataquickrun，sittingonthetopsoftheirpack-saddleswiththeirlegscrossedabovetheirhorses’necks，andwearinglargehatslikecoal-scuttlebonnets。Thehorsesareinfestedwithticks，hundredsupononeanimalsometimes，andoccasionallytheybecomesomadfromtheirritationthattheythrowthemselvessuddenlyontheground，androlloverloadandrider。Isawthisdonetwice。Theticksoftentransferthemselvestotheriders。
Moriisalarge，ramshacklevillage，nearthesouthernpointofVolcanoBay——awild，dreary-lookingplaceonasandyshore，withanumberofjoroyasanddisreputablecharacters。Severaloftheyadoyasarenotrespectable，butIratherlikethisone，andithasaveryfineviewofthevolcano，whichformsonepointofthebay。
Morihasnoanchorage，thoughithasanunfinishedpier345feetlong。Thesteamferryacrossthemouthofthebayishere，andthereisaverydifficultbridle-trackrunningfornearly100milesroundthebaybesides，andaroadintotheinterior。Butitisaforlorn，decayedplace。Lastnighttheinnwasverynoisy，assometravellersinthenextroomtominehiredgeishas，whoplayed，sang，anddancedtilltwointhemorning，andthewholepartyimbibedsakefreely。Inthiscomparativelynorthernlatitudethesummerisalreadywaning。TheseedsoftheblossomswhichwereintheirglorywhenIarrivedareripe，andhereandthereatingeofyellowonahillside，orascarletsprayofmaple，heraldsthegloriesandthecoolnessofautumn。
Aloudyellof“steamer，“coupledwiththeinformationthat“shecouldnotwaitoneminute，“brokeinupongoandeverythingelse，andinabroilingsunwehurrieddowntothepier，andwithaheapofJapanese，whofilledtwoscows，wereputonboardasteamernotbiggerthanalargedeckedsteamlaunch，wherethenativeswereallpackedintoacoveredhole，andIwasconductedwithmuchceremonytotheforecastle，aplaceatthebow5feetsquare，fullofcoilsofrope，shutin，andlefttosolitudeanddignity，andthestareofeighteyes，whichperseveringlygloweredthroughthewindows！
Thesteamerhadbeenkeptwaitingformeontheothersidefortwodays，totheinfinitedisgustoftwoforeigners，whowishedtoreturntoHakodate，andtomine。
Itwasasplendidday，withfoamcrestsonthewonderfullybluewater，andtheredashesofthevolcano，whichformsthesouthpointofthebay，glowedinthesunlight。Thiswretchedsteamer，whoseboilersaresooften“sick“thatshecanneverbereliedupon，istheonlymeansofreachingthenewcapitalwithouttakingamostdifficultandcircuitousroute。Tocontinuethepierandputacapablegoodsteamerontheferrywouldbeausefulexpenditureofmoney。Thebreezewasstrongandinourfavour，butevenwiththisittookussixwearyhourstosteamtwenty-fivemiles，anditwaseightatnightbeforewereachedthebeautifulandalmostland-lockedbayofMororan，withsteep，woodedsides，anddeepwaterclosetotheshore，deepenoughfortheforeignshipsofwarwhichoccasionallyanchorther
