Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第40章

ForcertainlynoEuropeanhadeverpreviouslyfloatedonthedarkandforest-shroudedwaters。Ienjoyedthosehoursthoroughly,forthesilencewasprofound,andthefaintblueoftheautumnsky,andthesoftblueveilwhich“spiritualised“thedistances,weresoexquisitelyliketheIndiansummer。

Theeveningwasspentlikethepreviousone,buttheheartsofthesavagesweresad,fortherewasnomoresakeinBiratori,sotheycouldnot“drinktothegod,“andthefireandthepostwiththeshavingshadtogowithoutlibations。Therewasnomoreoil,soafterthestrangersretiredthehutwasincompletedarkness。

Yesterdaymorningweallbreakfastedsoonafterdaylight,andtheable-bodiedmenwentawaytohunt。Huntingandfishingaretheiroccupations,andfor“indoorrecreation“theycarvetobacco-boxes,knife-sheaths,sake-sticks,andshuttles。Itisquiteunnecessaryforthemtodoanything;theyarequitecontentedtositbythefire,andsmokeoccasionally,andeatandsleep,thisapathybeingvariedbyspasmsofactivitywhenthereisnomoredriedfleshinthekuras,andwhenskinsmustbetakentoSarufutotopayforsake。Thewomenseemnevertohaveanidlemoment。Theyriseearlytosew,weave,andsplitbark,fortheynotonlyclothethemselvesandtheirhusbandsinthisnearlyindestructiblecloth,butweaveitforbarter,andthelowerclassofJapaneseareconstantlytobeseenwearingtheproductofAinoindustry。Theydoallthehardwork,suchasdrawingwater,choppingwood,grindingmillet,andcultivatingthesoil,aftertheirfashion;

but,todothemenjustice,Ioftenseethemtrudgingalongcarryingoneandeventwochildren。Thewomentaketheexclusivechargeofthekuras,whichareneverenteredbymen。

Iwasleftforsomehoursalonewiththewomen,ofwhomtherewereseveninthehut,withafewchildren。Ontheonesideofthefirethechief’smothersatlikeaFate,foreversplittingandknottingbark,andpetrifyingmebyhercold,fatefuleyes。Herthick,greyhairhangsinshocks,thetattooingroundhermouthhasnearlyfaded,andnolongerdisguisesherreallyhandsomefeatures。Sheisdressedinamuchornamentedbark-clothdress,andwearstwosilverbeadstiedroundherneckbyapieceofbluecotton,inadditiontoverylargeearrings。Shehasmuchswayinthehouse,sittingonthemen’ssideofthefire,drinkingplentyofsake,andoccasionallychidinghergrandsonShinondifortellingmetoomuch,sayingthatitwillbringharmtoherpeople。Thoughherexpressionissosevereandforbidding,sheiscertainlyveryhandsome,anditisaEuropean,notanAsiatic,beauty。

Theyoungerwomenwereallatwork;twowereseatedonthefloorweavingwithoutaloom,andtheothersweremakingandmendingthebarkcoatswhicharewornbybothsexes。Noma,thechief’sprincipalwife,satapart,seldomspeaking。Twooftheyoungestwomenareverypretty——asfairasourselves,andtheircomelinessisoftherosy,peasantkind。Itturnsoutthattwoofthem,thoughtheywouldnotdivulgeitbeforemen,speakJapanese,andtheyprattledtoItowithgreatvivacityandmerriment,theancientFatescowlingatthemthewhilefromunderhershaggyeyebrows。I

gotanumberofwordsfromthem,andtheylaughedheartilyatmyerroneouspronunciation。Theyevenaskedmeanumberofquestionsregardingtheirownsexamongourselves,butfewofthesewouldbearrepetition,andtheyansweredanumberofmine。Asthemerrimentincreasedtheoldwomanlookedincreasinglyangryandrestless,andatlastratedthemsharply,asIhaveheardsince,tellingthemthatiftheyspokeanotherwordsheshouldtelltheirhusbandsthattheyhadbeentalkingtostrangers。Afterthisnotanotherwordwasspoken,andNoma,whoisanindustrioushousewife,boiledsomemilletintoamashforamid-daylunch。DuringtheafternoonaveryhandsomeyoungAino,withawashed,richly-

colouredskinandfinecleareyes,cameupfromthecoast,wherehehadbeenworkingatthefishing。HesalutedtheoldwomanandBenri’swifeonentering,andpresentedtheformerwithagourdofsake,bringingagreedylightintoh

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