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wouldtake，——Ishouldliketohavehadthemallshot。Theyarecheapandabundant，andareofnoaccount。Theydroveanumbermoredownfromthehills，andIchosethelargestandfinesthorseIhaveseeninJapan，withsomespiritandaction，butIsoonfoundthathehadtenderfeet。Weshortlyleftthehigh-road，andintorrentsofrainturnedoffon“unbeatentracks，“whichledusthroughaverybadswampandsomemuchswollenandveryroughriversintothemountains，wherewefollowedaworn-outtrackforeightmiles。Itwasliterally“FOULweather，“darkandstill，withabrownmist，andrainfallinginsheets。Ithrewmypaperwaterproofawayasuseless，myclotheswereofcoursesoaked，anditwaswithmuchdifficultythatIkeptmyshomonandpapermoneyfrombeingreducedtopulp。TyphoonsarenotknownsofarnorthasYezo，butitwaswhattheycalla“typhoonrain“withoutthetyphoon，andinnotimeitturnedthestreamsintotorrentsbarelyfordable，andtoreupsuchofaroadasthereis，whichatitsbestisamerewater-channel。Torrents，bringingtolerable-sizedstones，toredownthetrack，andwhenthehorseshadbeenstrucktwoorthreetimesbythese，itwaswithdifficultythattheycouldbeinducedtofacetherushingwater。Constantlyinapass，thewaterhadgraduallycutatrackseveralfeetdeepbetweensteepbanks，andtheonlypossiblewalkingplacewasastonygashnotwideenoughforthetwofeetofahorsealongsideofeachother，downwhichwaterandstoneswererushingfrombehind，withallmanneroftrailersmattedoverhead，andbetweenavoidingbeingstrangledandattemptingtokeepatender-footedhorseonhislegs，theridewasaverysevereone。Thepooranimalfellfivetimesfromsteppingonstones，andinoneofhisfallstwistedmyleftwristbadly。IthoughtofthemanypeoplewhoenviedmemytourinJapan，andwonderedwhethertheywouldenvymethatride！
Afterthishadgoneonforfourhours，thetrack，withasuddendipoverahillside，camedownonOldMororan，avillageofthirtyAinoandnineJapanesehouses，veryunpromising-looking，althoughexquisitelysituatedontherimofalovelycove。TheAinohutsweresmallandpoor，withanunusualnumberofbearskullsonpoles，andthevillageconsistedmainlyoftwolongdilapidatedbuildings，inwhichanumberofmenweremendingnets。Itlookedadecayingplace，oflow，meanlives。Butata“merchant’s“therewasonedelightfulroomwithtwotranslucentsides——oneopeningonthevillage，theotherlookingtotheseadownashort，steepslope，onwhichisaquaintlittlegarden，withdwarfedfir-treesinpots，afewbalsams，andaredcabbagegrownwithmuchprideasa“foliageplant。“
Itisnearlymidnight，butmybedandbeddingaresowetthatIamstillsittingupanddryingthem，patchbypatch，withtediousslowness，onawoodenframeplacedoveracharcoalbrazier，whichhasgivenmyroomthedrynessandwarmthwhichareneededwhenapersonhasbeenformanyhoursinsoakedclothing，andhasnothingreallydrytoputon。Itoboughtachickenformysupper，butwhenhewasgoingtokillitanhourlateritsownerinmuchgriefreturnedthemoney，sayingshehadbroughtitupandcouldnotbeartoseeitkilled。Thisisawild，outlandishplace，butanintuitiontellsmethatitisbeautiful。Theoceanatpresentisthunderingupthebeachwiththesullenforceofaheavyground-
swell，andtherainisstillfallingintorrents。
“MorethanPeace“——GeographicalDifficulties——Usu-taki——SwimmingtheOsharu——ADreamofBeauty——ASunsetEffect——ANocturnalAlarm——
TheCoastAinos。
“WearywaveanddyingblastSobandmoanalongtheshore，Allispeaceatlast。“
Andmorethanpeace。Itwasaheavenlymorning。Thedeepblueskywasperfectlyunclouded，ablueseawithdiamondflashanda“many-
twinklingsmile“rippledgentlyonthegoldensandsofthelovelylittlebay，andopposite，fortymilesaway，thepinksummitofthevolcanoofKomono-taki，formingthesouth-westernpointofVolcanoBay，roseint
