Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第39章

Besidesthese,sevenwomensatinarowinthebackgroundsplittingbark。Alargeironpanhungoverthefirefromablackenedarrangementabove,andBenri’sprincipalwifecutwildroots,greenbeans,andseaweed,andshreddriedfishandvenisonamongthem,addingmillet,water,andsomestrong-smellingfish-oil,andsetthewholeontostewforthreehours,stirringthe“mess“nowandthenwithawoodenspoon。

Severaloftheolderpeoplesmoke,andIhandedroundsomemildtobacco,whichtheyreceivedwithwavinghands。ItoldthemthatI

camefromalandinthesea,veryfaraway,wheretheysawthesungodown——soveryfarawaythatahorsewouldhavetogallopdayandnightforfiveweekstoreachit——andthatIhadcomealongjourneytoseethem,andthatIwantedtoaskthemmanyquestions,sothatwhenIwenthomeImighttellmyownpeoplesomethingaboutthem。Shinondiandanotherman,whounderstoodJapanese,bowed,and(asoneveryoccasion)translatedwhatIsaidintoAinoforthevenerablegroupopposite。Shinondithensaid“thatheandShinrichi,theotherJapanesespeaker,wouldtellmealltheyknew,buttheywerebutyoungmen,andonlyknewwhatwastoldtothem。

Theywouldspeakwhattheybelievedtobetrue,butthechiefknewmorethanthey,andwhenhecamebackhemighttellmedifferently,andthenIshouldthinkthattheyhadspokenlies。“Isaidthatnoonewholookedintotheirfacescouldthinkthattheyevertoldlies。Theywereverymuchpleased,andwavedtheirhandsandstrokedtheirbeardsrepeatedly。BeforetheytoldmeanythingtheybeggedandprayedthatIwouldnotinformtheJapaneseGovernmentthattheyhadtoldmeoftheircustoms,orharmmightcometothem!

Forthenexttwohours,andfortwomoreaftersupper,Iaskedthemquestionsconcerningtheirreligionandcustoms,andagainyesterdayforaconsiderabletime,andthismorning,afterBenri’sreturn,Iwentoverthesamesubjectswithhim,andhavealsoemployedaconsiderabletimeingettingabout300wordsfromthem,whichIhavespeltphoneticallyofcourse,andintendtogooveragainwhenIvisitthecoastAinos。{19}

Theprocesswasslow,asbothquestionandanswerhadtopassthroughthreelanguages。Therewasaverymanifestdesiretotellthetruth,andIthinkthattheirstatementsconcerningtheirfewandsimplecustomsmaybereliedupon。IshallgivewhattheytoldmeseparatelywhenIhavetimetowriteoutmynotesinanorderlymanner。IcanonlysaythatIhaveseldomspentamoreinterestingevening。

Aboutninethestewwasready,andthewomenladleditintolacquerbowlswithwoodenspoons。Themenwereservedfirst,butallatetogether。Afterwardssake,theircurse,waspouredintolacquerbowls,andacrosseachbowlafinely-carved“sake-stick“waslaid。

Thesesticksareveryhighlyprized。Thebowlswerewavedseveraltimeswithaninwardmotion,theneachmantookhisstickand,dippingitintothesake,madesixlibationstothefireandseveraltothe“god“——awoodenpost,withaquantityofspiralwhiteshavingsfallingfromnearthetop。TheAinosarenotaffectedbysakenearlysoeasilyastheJapanese。Theytookitcold,itistrue,buteachdrankaboutthreetimesasmuchaswouldhavemadeaJapanesefoolish,andithadnoeffectuponthem。

Aftertwohoursmoretalkoneafteranothergotupandwentout,makingprofusesalutationstomeandtotheothers。Mycandleshadbeenforgotten,andourseancewasheldbythefitfullightofthebiglogsonthefire,aidedbyasuccessionofchipsofbirchbark,withwhichawomanreplenishedacleftstickthatwasstuckintothefire-hole。Ineversawsuchastrangelypicturesquesightasthatgroupofmagnificentsavageswiththefitfulfirelightontheirfaces,andforadjunctstheflareofthetorch,thestronglights,theblacknessoftherecessesoftheroomandoftheroof,atoneendofwhichthestarslookedin,andtherowofsavagewomeninthebackground——easternsavageryandwesterncivilisationmetinthishut,savagerygivingandcivilisationreceiving,theyellow-skinnedItoth

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