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Thelevelwaspleasantafterthemountains，andacantertookuspleasantlytoOshamambe，wherewestrucktheoldroadfromMoritoSatsuporo，andwhereIhaltedforadaytorestmyspine，fromwhichIwassufferingmuch。Oshamambelooksdismaleveninthesunshine，decayedanddissipated，withmanypeopleloungingaboutinitdoingnothing，withthedazedlookwhichover-indulgenceinsakegivestotheeyes。Thesunwasscorchinghot，andIwasgladtofindrefugefromitinacrowdedanddilapidatedyadoya，wheretherewerenoblackbeans，andtheuseofeggsdidnotappeartoberecognised。Myroomwasonlyenclosedbyshoji，andtherewerescarcelyfiveminutesofthedayinwhicheyeswerenotappliedtothefinger-holeswithwhichtheywereliberallyriddled；andduringthenightoneofthemfelldown，revealingsixJapanesesleepinginarow，eachheadonawoodenpillow。
Thegrandeuroftherouteceasedwiththemountain-passes，butinthebrilliantsunshinetheridefromOshamambetoMori，whichtookmetwodays，wasasprettyandpleasantasitcouldbe。Atfirstwegotonveryslowly，asbesidesmyfourhorsestherewerefourledonesgoinghome，whichgotupfightsandentangledtheirropes，andoccasionallylaydownandrolled；andbesidesthesetherewerethreefoalsfollowingtheirmothers，andiftheystayedbehindthemareshungbackneighing，andiftheyfrolickedaheadthemareswantedtolookafterthem，andthewholestringshowedacombinedinclinationtodispensewiththeirridersandjointhemanyherdsofhorseswhichwepassed。Itwassotediousthat，afterenduringitforsometimeIgotIto’shorseandmineintoascowatariverofsomesize，andleftthedisorderlydrovetofollowatleisure。
AtYurapu，wherethereisanAinovillageofthirtyhouses，wesawthelastoftheaborigines，andtheinterestofthejourneyended。
Stripsofhardsandbelowhigh-watermark，stripsofredroses，rangesofwoodedmountains，riversdeepandshallow，afewvillagesofoldgreyhousesamidstgreysandandbleachingdriftwood，andthencametheriverYurapu，abroad，deepstream，navigableinacanoeforfourteenmiles。Thescenerytherewastrulybeautifulinthelateandsplendidafternoon。Thelongbluewavesrolledonshore，eachonecrestedwithlightasitcurledbeforeitbroke，andhurleditssnowydriftformilesalongthecoastwithadeepboomingmusic。Thegloriousinlandviewwascomposedofsixrangesofforest-coveredmountains，broken，chasmed，caverned，anddarkwithtimber，andabovethembald，greypeaksroseagainstagreenskyofsingularpurity。IlongedtotakeaboatuptheYurapu，whichpenetratesbymanyagorgeintotheirsolemnrecesses，buthadnotstrengthtocarrymywish。
AfterthisIexchangedthesilenceorlowmusicalspeechofAinoguidesfortheharshandceaselessclatterofJapanese。AtYamakushinoi，asmallhamletonthesea-shore，whereIslept，therewasasweet，quietyadoya，delightfullysituated，withawoodedcliffattheback，overwhichacrescenthungoutofapuresky；
andbesides，therewerethemoresolidpleasuresoffish，eggs，andblackbeans。Thus，insteadofbeingstarvedandfindingwretchedaccommodation，theweekIspentonVolcanoBayhasbeenthebestfed，asitwascertainlythemostcomfortable，weekofmytravelsinnorthernJapan。
AnothergloriousdayfavouredmyridetoMori，butIwasunfortunateinmyhorseateachstage，andtheJapaneseguidewasgrumpyandill-natured——amostunusualthing。Otoshibeandafewothersmallvillagesofgreyhouses，with“anancientandfish-likesmell，“liealongthecoast，busyenoughdoubtlessintheseason，butnowlookingdesertedanddecayed，andhousesareratherplentifullysprinkledalongmanypartsoftheshore，withawonderfulprofusionofvegetablesandflowersaboutthem，raisedfromseedsliberallysuppliedbytheKaitakushiDepartmentfromitsNanaiexperimentalfarmandnurseries。ForaconsiderablepartofthewaytoMorithereisnotrackatall，thoughthereisagooddealoftravel。Onemakesone’swayfatiguinglyalongsoftseasandorcoarseshingleclosetothesea，orabsolutelyinit，undercliffsofhardenedclayoryellowconglomerate，fordingmanysmallstreams，severalofwhichhavecuttheirwaydeeplythroughastratumofblackvolcanicsand。Ihavecrossedabout100riversandstreamsontheYezocoast，andallthelargeronesaremarkedbyamostnoticeablepeculiarity，i。e。thatonnearin
