Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第38章

mountedpolicemanstartedwithusfromYubets,androdethewholewayhere,keepingexactlytomypace,butneverspeakingaword。

Wefordedonebroad,deepriver,andcrossedanother,partlybyfordingandpartlyinascow,afterwhichthetrackleftthelevel,and,afterpassingthroughreedygrassashighasthehorse’sears,wentforsomemilesupanddownhill,throughwoodscomposedentirelyoftheAilanthusglandulosus,withleavesmuchriddledbythemountainsilk-worm,andafernyundergrowthofthefamiliarPterisaquilina。Thedeepshadeandglancinglightsofthisopencopsewoodwereverypleasant;andasthehorsetrippedgailyupanddownthelittlehills,andtheseamurmurmingledwiththerustleofthebreeze,andaglintofwhitesurfsometimesflashedthroughthegreenery,anddragonfliesandbutterfliesinsuitsofcrimsonandblackvelvetcrossedthepathcontinuallylike“livingflashes“

oflight,Iwasremindedsomewhat,thoughfaintly,ofwindwardHawaii。WeemergeduponanAinohutandabeautifulplacidriver,andtwoAinosferriedthefourpeopleandhorsesacrossinascow,thethirdwadingtoguidetheboat。Theyworenoclothing,butonlyonewashairy。Theyweresuperb-lookingmen,gentle,andextremelycourteous,handingmeinandoutoftheboat,andholdingthestirrupwhileImounted,withmuchnaturalgrace。Onleavingtheyextendedtheirarmsandwavedtheirhandsinwardstwice,strokingtheirgrandbeardsafterwards,whichistheirusualsalutation。AshortdistanceovershinglebroughtustothisJapanesevillageofsixty-threehouses,acolonisationsettlement,mainlyofsamuraifromtheprovinceofSendai,whoareraisingveryfinecropsonthesandysoil。Themountains,twelvemilesintheinterior,havealargeAinopopulation,andafewAinoslivenearthisvillageandareheldingreatcontemptbyitsinhabitants。Myroomisonthevillagestreet,and,asitistoowarmtoclosetheshoji,theaboriginesstandlookinginatthelatticehourafterhour。

AshorttimeagoMr。VonSieboldandCountDiesbachgallopedupontheirreturnfromBiratori,theAinovillagetowhichIamgoing;

andCountD。,throwinghimselffromhishorse,rusheduptomewiththeexclamation,Lespuces!lespuces!Theyhavebroughtdownwiththemthechief,Benri,asuperbbutdissipated-lookingsavage。Mr。

VonSieboldcalledonmethisevening,andIenviedhimhisfresh,cleanclothingasmuchasheenviedmemystretcherandmosquito-

net。Theyhavesufferedterriblyfromfleas,mosquitoes,andgeneraldiscomfort,andaremuchexhausted;butMr。VonS。thinksthat,inspiteofall,avisittothemountainAinosisworthalongjourney。AsIexpected,theyhavecompletelyfailedintheirexplorations,andhavebeendesertedbyLieutenantKreitner。I

askedMr。VonS。tospeaktoItoinJapaneseabouttheimportanceofbeingkindandcourteoustotheAinoswhosehospitalityIshallreceive;andItoisveryindignantatthis。“TreatAinospolitely!“hesays;“they’rejustdogs,notmen;“andsincehehasregaledmewithallthescandalconcerningthemwhichhehasbeenabletoraketogetherinthevillage。

WehavetotakenotonlyfoodforbothItoandmyself,butcookingutensils。IhavebeenintroducedtoBenri,thechief;and,thoughhedoesnotreturnforadayortwo,hewillsendamessagealongwithuswhichwillensuremehospitality。

SavageLife——AForestTrack——CleanlyVillages——AHospitableReception——TheChief’sMother——TheEveningMeal——ASavageSeance——

LibationstotheGods——NocturnalSilence——AinoCourtesy——TheChief’sWife。

IaminthelonelyAinoland,andIthinkthatthemostinterestingofmytravellingexperienceshasbeenthelivingforthreedaysandtwonightsinanAinohut,andseeingandsharingthedailylifeofcompletesavages,whogoonwiththeirordinaryoccupationsjustasifIwerenotamongthem。Ifoundyesterdayamostfatiguingandover-excitingday,aseverythingwasnewandinteresting,eventheextractingfrommenwhohavefewifanyideasincommonwithmeallIcouldextractconcerningtheirreligionandcustoms,andthatthroughaninterpreter。Igotupatsixthismorningtowriteoutmynotes,andhavebeenwritingforfivehours,andthereisshortlytheprospectofanothersavageseance。Thedistractions,asyoucanimagine,aremany。Atthismomentasavageistakingacupofsakebythefireinthecentreofthefloor。Hesalutesmebyextendinghishandsandwavingthemtowardshisface,andthendipsarodinthesake,andmakessixlibationstothegod——

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