Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第43章

Householdgodsformanessentialpartofthefurnishingofeveryhouse。Inthisone,attheleftoftheentrance,therearetenwhitewands,withshavingsdependingfromtheupperend,stuckinthewall;anotherprojectsfromthewindowwhichfacesthesunrise,andthegreatgod——awhitepost,twofeethigh,withspiralsofshavingsdependingfromthetop——isalwaysplantedinthefloor,nearthewall,ontheleftside,oppositethefire,betweentheplatformbedofthehouseholderandthelow,broadshelfplacedinvariablyonthesameside,andwhichisasingularfeatureofallAinohouses,coastandmountain,downtothepoorest,containing,asitdoes,Japanesecurios,manyofthemveryvaluableobjectsofantiqueart,thoughmuchdestroyedbydampanddust。Theyaretruecuriositiesinthedwellingsofthesenorthernaborigines,andlookalmostsolemnrangedagainstthewall。Inthishousetherearetwenty-fourlacqueredurns,ortea-chests,orseats,eachstandingtwofeethighonfoursmalllegs,shodwithengravedorfiligreebrass。Behindtheseareeightlacqueredtubs,andanumberofbowlsandlacquertrays,andabovearespearswithinlaidhandles,andfineKagaandAwatabowls。Thelacquerisgood,andseveraloftheurnshavedaimiyo’screstsingolduponthem。OneurnandalargecoveredbowlarebeautifullyinlaidwithVenus’ear。Thegreaturnsaretobeseenineveryhouse,andinadditiontherearesuitsofinlaidarmour,andswordswithinlaidhilts,engravedblades,andrepoussescabbards,forwhichacollectorwouldgivealmostanything。Nooffers,howeverliberal,cantemptthemtosellanyoftheseantiquepossessions。“Theywerepresents,“theysayintheirlow,musicalvoices;“theywerepresentsfromthosewhowerekindtoourfathers;no,wecannotsellthem;theywerepresents。“Andsogoldlacquer,andpearlinlaying,andgoldniello-work,anddaimiyo’screstsingold,continuetogleaminthesmokydarknessoftheirhuts。SomeofthesethingsweredoubtlessgiftstotheirfatherswhentheywenttopaytributetotherepresentativeoftheShogunandthePrinceofMatsumae,soonaftertheconquestofYezo。Otherswereprobablygiftsfromsamurai,whotookrefugehereduringtherebellion,andsomemusthavebeenobtainedbybarter。Theyaretheonepossessionwhichtheywillnotbarterforsake,andareonlypartedwithinpaymentoffinesatthecommandofachief,orasthedowerofagirl。

Exceptinthepooresthouses,wherethepeoplecanonlyaffordtolaydownamatforaguest,theycoverthecoarsematwithfineonesoneachsideofthefire。Thesematsandthebark-clotharereallytheironlymanufactures。Theyaremadeoffinereeds,withapatternindullredsorbrowns,andare14feetlongby3feet6

incheswide。Ittakesawomaneightdaystomakeoneofthem。Ineveryhousethereareoneortwomovableplatforms6feetby4and14incheshigh,whichareplacedattheheadofthefireplace,andonwhichguestssitandsleeponabearskinorafinemat。Inmanyhousestherearebroadseatsafewincheshigh,onwhichtheeldermensitcross-legged,astheircustomis,notsquattingJapanesefashionontheheels。Awater-tubalwaysrestsonastandbythedoor,andthedriedfishandvenisonorbearfordailyusehangfromtherafters,aswellasafewskins。Besidesthesethingsthereareafewabsolutenecessaries,——lacquerorwoodenbowlsforfoodandsake,achopping-boardandrudechopping-knife,acleft-

stickforburningstripsofbirch-bark,atriply-cleftstickforsupportingthepotsherdinwhich,onrareoccasions,theyburnawickwithoil,thecomponentpartsoftheirrudeloom,thebarkofwhichtheymaketheirclothes,thereedsofwhichtheymaketheirmats,——andtheinventoryoftheessentialsoftheirlifeisnearlycomplete。Noironentersintotheconstructionoftheirhouses,itsplacebeingsuppliedbyaremarkablytenaciousfibre。

Ihavebeforedescribedthepreparationoftheirfood,whichusuallyconsistsofastew“ofabominablethings。“Theyeatsaltandfreshfish,driedfish,seaweed,slugs,thevariousvegetableswhichgrowinthewildernessoftallweedswhichsurroundstheirvillages,wildrootsandberries,freshanddriedvenisonandbear;

theircarnivalconsistingoffreshbear’sfleshandsake,seaweed,mushrooms,andanythingtheycanget,infact,wh

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