Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第24章

Nosokitoldmethathereliesmainlyontheapplicationofthemoxaandonacupunctureinthetreatmentofacutediseases,andinchronicmaladiesonfriction,medicinalbaths,certainanimalandvegetablemedicines,andcertainkindsoffood。Theuseofleechesandblistersisunknowntohim,andheregardsmineraldrugswithobvioussuspicion。Hehasheardofchloroform,buthasneverseenitused,andconsidersthatinmaternityitmustnecessarilybefataleithertomotherorchild。Heaskedme(andIhavetwicebeforebeenaskedthesamequestion)whetheritisnotbyitsusethatweendeavourtokeepdownourredundantpopulation!Hehasgreatfaithinginseng,andinrhinoceroshorn,andinthepowderedliverofsomeanimal,which,fromthedescription,Iunderstoodtobeatiger——allspecificsoftheChineseschoolofmedicines。Dr。

Nosokishowedmeasmallboxof“unicorn’s“horn,whichhesaidwasworthmorethanitsweightingold!Asmyarmimprovedcoincidentlywiththeapplicationofhislotion,Iamboundtogivehimthecreditofthecure。

Iinvitedhimtodinner,andtwotableswereproducedcoveredwithdifferentdishes,ofwhichheateheartily,showingmostsingulardexteritywithhischopsticksinremovingthefleshofsmall,bonyfish。Itispropertoshowappreciationofarepastbynoisygulpings,andmuchgurglinganddrawinginofthebreath。

Etiquetterigidlyprescribestheseperformances,whicharemostdistressingtoaEuropean,andmyguestnearlyupsetmygravitybythem。

Thehostandthekocho,orchiefmanofthevillage,paidmeaformalvisitintheevening,andIto,engrandetenue,exertedhimselfimmenselyontheoccasion。Theyweremuchsurprisedatmynotsmoking,andsupposedmetobeunderavow!TheyaskedmemanyquestionsaboutourcustomsandGovernment,butfrequentlyrevertedtotobacco。

TheEffectofaChicken——PoorFare——SlowTravelling——ObjectsofInterest——Kak’ke——TheFatalClose——AGreatFire——SecurityoftheKuras。

Veryearlyinthemorning,aftermylongtalkwiththeKochoofKanayama,Itowakenedmebysaying,“You’llbeableforalongday’sjourneyto-day,asyouhadachickenyesterday,“andunderthischicken’smarvellousinfluencewegotawayat6。45,onlytoverifytheproverb,“Themorehastetheworsespeed。“UnsolicitedbymetheKochosentroundthevillagetoforbidthepeoplefromassembling,soIgotawayinpeacewithapack-horseandonerunner。Itwasaterribleroad,withtwoseveremountain-passestocross,andInotonlyhadtowalknearlythewholeway,buttohelpthemanwiththekurumaupsomeofthesteepestplaces。HaltingattheexquisitelysituatedvillageofNosoki,wegotonehorse,andwalkedbyamountainroadalongthehead-watersoftheOmonotoInnai。IwishIcouldconveytoyouanyideaofthebeautyandwildnessofthatmountainroute,ofthesurprisesontheway,ofviews,oftheviolentdelugesofrainwhichturnedrivuletsintotorrents,andofthehardshipsanddifficultiesoftheday;thescantyfareofsun-driedricedoughandsouryellowrasps,andthedepthofthemirethroughwhichwewaded!WecrossedtheShioneandSakatsupasses,andintwelvehoursaccomplishedfifteenmiles!

Everywhereweweretoldthatweshouldnevergetthroughthecountrybythewaywearegoing。

Thewomenstillweartrousers,butwithalonggarmenttuckedintotheminsteadofashortone,andthemenwearacottoncombinationofbreastplateandapron,eitherwithoutanythingelse,orovertheirkimonos。ThedescenttoInnaiunderanavenueofcryptomeria,andthevillageitself,shutinwiththerushingOmono,areverybeautiful。

TheyadoyaatInnaiwasaremarkablycheerfulone,butmyroomwasentirelyfusumaandshoji,andpeoplewerepeepinginthewholetime。Itisnotonlyaforeignerandhisstrangewayswhichattractattentionintheseremotedistricts,but,inmycase,myindia-rubberbath,air-pillow,and,aboveall,mywhitemosquitonet。Theirnetsareallofaheavygreencanvas,andtheyadmireminesomuch,thatIcangivenomoreacceptablepresentonleavingthanapieceofittotwistinwiththehair。Thereweresixengineersinthenextroomwhoaresurveyingthepasses

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