Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第33章

Inonetowntwoveryshabbypolicemenrusheduponus,seizedthebridleofmyhorse,andkeptmewaitingforalongtimeinthemiddleofacrowd,whiletheytoilsomelyboredthroughthepassport,turningitupanddown,andholdingituptothelight,asthoughthereweresomenefariousmysteryaboutit。MyhorsestumbledsobadlythatIwasobligedtowalktosavemyselffromanotherfall,and,justasmypowerswerefailing,wemetakuruma,whichbygoodmanagement,suchasbeingcarriedoccasionally,broughtmeintoKuroishi,aneattownof5500people,famousforthemakingofclogsandcombs,whereIhaveobtainedaveryneat,airy,upstairsroom,withagoodviewoverthesurroundingcountryandofthedoingsofmyneighboursintheirbackroomsandgardens。

InsteadofgettingontoAomoriIamspendingthreedaysandtwonightshere,and,astheweatherhasimprovedandmyroomisremarkablycheerful,theresthasbeenverypleasant。AsIhavesaidbefore,itisdifficulttogetanyinformationaboutanythingevenafewmilesoff,andevenatthePostOfficetheycannotgiveanyintelligenceastothedateofthesailingsofthemailsteamerbetweenAomori,twentymilesoff,andHakodate。

Thepolicewerenotsatisfiedwithseeingmypassport,butmustalsoseeme,andfourofthempaidmeapolitebutdomiciliaryvisittheeveningofmyarrival。Thateveningthesoundofdrummingwasceaseless,andsoonafterIwasinbedItoannouncedthattherewassomethingreallyworthseeing,soIwentoutinmykimonoandwithoutmyhat,andinthisdisguisealtogetherescapedrecognitionasaforeigner。Kuroishiisunlighted,andIwastumblingandstumblingalonginoverhastewhenastrongarmclearedtheway,andthehouse-masterappearedwithaveryprettylantern,hangingclosetothegroundfromacaneheldinthehand。Thuscamethephrase,“Thywordisalightuntomyfeet。“

Wesoonreachedapointforseeingthefestivalprocessionadvancetowardsus,anditwassobeautifulandpicturesquethatitkeptmeoutforanhour。Itpassesthroughallthestreetsbetween7and10p。m。eachnightduringthefirstweekinAugust,withanark,orcoffer,containingslipsofpaper,onwhich(asIunderstand)

wishesarewritten,andeachmorningatseventhisiscarriedtotheriverandtheslipsarecastuponthestream。Theprocessionconsistedofthreemonsterdrumsnearlytheheightofaman’sbody,coveredwithhorsehide,andstrappedtothedrummers,endupwards,andthirtysmalldrums,allbeatenrub-a-dub-dubwithoutceasing。

Eachdrumhasthetomoyepaintedonitsends。Thentherewerehundredsofpaperlanternscarriedonlongpolesofvariouslengthsroundacentrallantern,20feethigh,itselfanoblong6feetlong,withafrontandwings,andallkindsofmythicalandmysticalcreaturespaintedinbrightcoloursuponit——atransparencyratherthanalantern,infact。Surroundingitwerehundredsofbeautifullanternsandtransparenciesofallsortsoffancifulshapes——fans,fishes,birds,kites,drums;thehundredsofpeopleandchildrenwhofollowedallcarriedcircularlanterns,androwsoflanternswiththetomoyeononesideandtwoChinesecharactersontheotherhungfromtheeavesallalongthelineoftheprocession。Ineversawanythingmorecompletelylikeafairyscene,theundulatingwavesoflanternsastheyswayedalong,thesoftlightsandsofttintsmovingaloftinthedarkness,thelantern-bearersbeingindeepshadow。Thisfestivaliscalledthetanabata,orseisekifestival,butIamunabletogetanyinformationaboutit。Itosaysthatheknowswhatitmeans,butisunabletoexplain,andaddsthephrasehealwaysuseswhenindifficulties,“Mr。Satowwouldbeabletotellyouallaboutit。“

ALady’sToilet——Hair-dressing——PaintandCosmetics——AfternoonVisitors——ChristianConverts。

Thisisapleasantplace,andmyroomhasmanyadvantagesbesideslightandcleanliness,as,forinstance,thatIoverlookmyneighboursandthatIhaveseenaladyathertoiletpreparingforawedding!Amarriedgirlkneltinfrontofablacklacquertoilet-boxwithasprayofcherryblossomsingoldspraw

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