Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第31章

Thisevening,here,asinthousandsofothervillages,themencamehomefromtheirwork,atetheirfood,tooktheirsmoke,enjoyedtheirchildren,carriedthemabout,watchedtheirgames,twistedstrawropes,madestrawsandals,splitbamboo,wovestrawrain-

coats,andspentthetimeuniversallyinthoselittleeconomicalingenuitiesandskilfuladaptationswhichourpeople(theworseforthem)practiseperhapslessthananyother。Therewasnoassemblingatthesakeshop。Poorthoughthehomesare,themenenjoythem;thechildrenareanattractionatanyrate,andthebrawlinganddisobediencewhichoftenturnourworking-classhomesintobear-gardensareunknownhere,wheredocilityandobedienceareinculcatedfromthecradleasamatterofcourse。ThesignsofreligionbecomefewerasItravelnorth,anditappearsthatthelittlefaithwhichexistsconsistsmainlyinabeliefincertaincharmsandsuperstitions,whichthepriestsindustriouslyfoster。

Alowvoiceisnotregardedas“amostexcellentthing,“inmanatleast,amongthelowerclassesinJapan。Thepeoplespeakatthetopoftheirvoices,and,thoughmostwordsandsyllablesendinvowels,thegeneraleffectofaconversationislikethediscordantgabbleofafarm-yard。Thenextroomtomineisfullofstormboundtravellers,andtheyandthehouse-masterkeptupwhatIthoughtwasamostimportantargumentforfourhoursatthetopoftheirvoices。Isupposeditmustbeonthenewandimportantordinancegrantinglocalelectiveassemblies,ofwhichIheardatOdate,butoninquiryfoundthatitwaspossibletospendfourmortalhoursindiscussingwhethertheday’sjourneyfromOdatetoNoshirocouldbemadebestbyroadorriver。

Japanesewomenhavetheirowngatherings,wheregossipandchit-

chat,markedbyatrulyOrientalindecorumofspeech,arethestapleoftalk。Ithinkthatinmanythings,speciallyinsomewhichlieonthesurface,theJapanesearegreatlyoursuperiors,butthatinmanyotherstheyareimmeasurablybehindus。Inlivingaltogetheramongthiscourteous,industrious,andcivilisedpeople,onecomestoforgetthatoneisdoingthemagrossinjusticeincomparingtheirmannersandwayswiththoseofapeoplemouldedbymanycenturiesofChristianity。WouldtoGodthatweweresoChristianisedthatthecomparisonmightalwaysbefavourabletous,whichitisnot!

July30——Intheroomontheothersideofmineweretwomenwithsevereeye-disease,withshavenheadsandlongandcuriousrosaries,whobeatsmalldrumsastheywalked,andwereonpilgrimagetotheshrineofFudoatMegura,nearYedo,aseated,flame-surroundedidol,withanakedswordinonehandandacoilofropeintheother,whohasthereputationofgivingsighttotheblind。Atfivethismorningtheybegantheirdevotions,whichconsistedinrepeatingwithgreatrapidity,andinahighmonotonouskeyfortwohours,theinvocationoftheNichirensectofBuddhists,NamumiyohorengeKiyo,whichcertainlynoJapaneseunderstands,andonthemeaningofwhicheventhebestscholarsaredivided;onehavinggivenme,“Glorytothesalvation-bringingScriptures;“another,“Hail,preciouslawandgospelofthelotusflower;“andathird,“Heavenandearth!Theteachingsofthewonderfullotusflowersect。“NamuamiduButsuoccurredatintervals,andtwodrumswerebeatenthewholetime!

Therain,whichbeganagainatelevenlastnight,fellfromfivetilleightthismorning,notindrops,butinstreams,andinthemiddleofitaheavypallofblackness(saidtobeatotaleclipse)

enfoldedallthingsinaluridgloom。Anydetentionisexasperatingwithinonedayofmyjourney’send,andIhearwithoutequanimitythattherearegreatdifficultiesahead,andthatourgettingthroughinthreeorevenfourdaysisdoubtful。Ihopeyouwillnotbetiredofthemonotonyofmyletters。Suchastheyare,theyrepresentthesceneswhichatravellerwouldseethroughoutmuchofnorthernJapan,andwhateverinteresttheyhaveconsistsinthefactthatthe

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