Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第23章

Iamlodgedinthelowerpart,buttheirondoorsareopen,andintheirplaceatnightisapaperscreen。Afewthingsarekeptinmyroom。TwohandsomeshrinesfromwhichtheunemotionalfacesoftwoBuddhaslookedoutallnight,afinefigureofthegoddessKwan-non,andavenerableoneofthegodoflongevity,suggestedcuriousdreams。

Prosperity——ConvictLabour——ANewBridge——Yamagata——IntoxicatingForgeries——TheGovernmentBuildings——BadManners——SnowMountains——A

Threedaysoftravellingonthesameexcellentroadhavebroughtmenearly60miles。Yamagatakenimpressesmeasbeingsingularlyprosperous,progressive,andgo-ahead;theplainofYamagata,whichIenteredsoonafterleavingKaminoyama,ispopulousandhighlycultivated,andthebroadroad,withitsenormoustraffic,lookswealthyandcivilised。ItisbeingimprovedbyconvictsindullredkimonosprintedwithChinesecharacters,whocorrespondwithourticket-of-leavemen,astheyareworkingforwagesintheemploymentofcontractorsandfarmers,andareundernootherrestrictionthanthatofalwayswearingtheprisondress。

AttheSakamokiriverIwasdelightedtocomeupontheonlythoroughlysolidpieceofmodernJapaneseworkthatIhavemetwith——aremarkablyhandsomestonebridgenearlyfinished——thefirstIhaveseen。Iintroducedmyselftotheengineer,OkunoChiuzo,averygentlemanly,agreeableJapanese,whoshowedmetheplans,tookagreatdealoftroubletoexplainthem,andcourteouslygavemeteaandsweetmeats。

Yamagata,athrivingtownof21,000peopleandthecapitaloftheken,iswellsituatedonaslighteminence,andthisandthedominantpositionofthekenchoatthetopofthemainstreetgiveitanemphasisunusualinJapanesetowns。Theoutskirtsofallthecitiesareverymean,andtheappearanceoftheloftywhitebuildingsofthenewGovernmentOfficesabovethelowgreyhouseswasmuchofasurprise。ThestreetsofYamagataarebroadandclean,andithasgoodshops,amongwhicharelongrowssellingnothingbutornamentalironkettlesandornamentalbrasswork。SofarintheinteriorIwasannoyedtofindseveralshopsalmostexclusivelyforthesaleofvillainousforgeriesofEuropeaneatablesanddrinkables,speciallythelatter。TheJapanese,fromtheMikadodownwards,haveacquiredaloveofforeignintoxicants,whichwouldbehurtfulenoughtothemiftheintoxicantsweregenuine,butisfarworsewhentheyarecompoundsofvitriol,fuseloil,badvinegar,andIknownotwhat。IsawtwoshopsinYamagatawhichsoldchampagneofthebestbrands,Martel’scognac,Bass’

ale,Medoc,St。Julian,andScotchwhisky,ataboutone-fifthoftheircostprice——allpoisonouscompounds,thesaleofwhichoughttobeinterdicted。

TheGovernmentBuildings,thoughintheusualconfectionerystyle,areimprovedbytheadditionofverandahs;andtheKencho,Saibancho,orCourtHouse,theNormalSchoolwithadvancedschoolsattached,andthepolicebuildings,areallinkeepingwiththegoodroadandobviousprosperity。Alargetwo-storiedhospital,withacupola,whichwillaccommodate150patients,andistobeamedicalschool,isnearlyfinished。Itisverywellarrangedandventilated。Icannotsayasmuchforthepresenthospital,whichI

wentover。AttheCourtHouseIsawtwentyofficialsdoingnothing,andasmanypolicemen,allinEuropeandress,towhichtheyhadaddedanimitationofEuropeanmanners,thetotalresultbeingunmitigatedvulgarity。Theydemandedmypassportbeforetheywouldtellmethepopulationofthekenandcity。OnceortwiceI

havefoundfaultwithIto’smanners,andhehasaskedmetwicesinceifIthinkthemlikethemannersofthepolicemenatYamagata!

NorthofYamagatatheplainwidens,andfinelongitudinalrangescappedwithsnowmountainso

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