Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第32章

confessthatIshutmyeyes!Aftergettingthrough,wecameuponthelandsbelongingtothisvillage——rice-fieldswiththedykesburst,andallthebeautifulridgeandfurrowcultivationoftheothercropscarriedaway。Thewaterswererisingfast,themensaidwemusthurry;theyunboundme,sothatImightridemorecomfortably,spoketothehorses,andwentonatarun。Myhorse,whichhadnearlywornouthisshoesinthefords,stumbledateverystep,themagogavemeanooseofropetoclutch,therainfellinsuchtorrentsthatIspeculatedonthechanceofbeingwashedoffmysaddle,whensuddenlyIsawashowerofsparks;Ifeltunutterablethings;Iwaschoked,bruised,stifled,andpresentlyfoundmyselfbeinghauledoutofaditchbythreemen,andrealisedthatthehorsehadtumbleddowningoingdownasteepishhill,andthatIhadgoneoverhishead。Toclimbagainonthesoakedfutonwastheworkofamoment,and,withmenrunningandhorsesstumblingandsplashing,wecrossedtheHirakawabyonefinebridge,andhalfamilefartherre-crosseditonanother,wishingaswedidsothatallJapanesebridgeswereassubstantial,fortheywereboth100feetlong,andhadcentralpiers。

WeenteredIkarigasekifromthelastbridge,avillageof800

people,onanarrowledgebetweenanabrupthillandtheHirakawa,amostforlornandtumble-downplace,givenuptofellingtimberandmakingshingles;andtimberinallitsforms——logs,planks,faggots,andshingles——isheapedandstalkedabout。Itlooksmorelikealumberer’sencampmentthanapermanentvillage,butitisbeautifullysituated,andunlikeanyoftheinnumerablevillagesthatIhaveeverseen。

Thestreetislongandnarrow,withstreamsinstonechannelsoneitherside;butthesehadoverflowed,andmen,women,andchildrenwereconstructingsquaredamstokeepthewater,whichhadalreadyreachedthedoma,fromrisingoverthetatami。Hardlyanyhousehaspaperwindows,andinthefewwhichhave,theyaresoblackwithsmokeastolookworsethannone。Theroofsarenearlyflat,andarecoveredwithshinglesheldonbylathsandweightedwithlargestones。Nearlyallthehouseslookliketemporarysheds,andmostareasblackinsideasaBarrahut。Thewallsofmanyarenothingbutroughboardstiedtotheuprightsbystrawropes。

Inthedrowningtorrent,sittinginpuddlesofwater,anddrenchedtotheskinhoursbefore,wereachedthisveryprimitiveyadoya,thelowerpartofwhichisoccupiedbythedaidokoro,apartyofstorm-boundstudents,horses,fowls,anddogs。Myroomisawretchedloft,reachedbyaladder,withsuchaquagmireatitsfootthatIhavetodescendintoitinWellingtonboots。Itwasdismallygrotesqueatfirst。ThetorrentontheunceiledroofpreventedItofromhearingwhatIsaid,thebedwassoaked,andthewater,havinggotintomybox,haddissolvedtheremainsofthecondensedmilk,andhadreducedclothes,books,andpaperintoaconditionofuniversalstickiness。Mykimonowaslesswetthananythingelse,and,borrowingasheetofoiledpaper,Ilaydowninit,tillrousedupinhalfanhourbyItoshriekingabovethedinontheroofthatthepeoplethoughtthatthebridgebywhichwehadjustenteredwouldgiveway;and,runningtotheriverbank,wejoinedalargecrowd,fartoointenselyoccupiedbythecomingdisastertotakeanynoticeofthefirstforeignladytheyhadeverseen。

TheHirakawa,whichanhourbeforewasmerelyaclear,rapidmountainstream,aboutfourfeetdeep,wasthentenfeetdeep,theysaid,andtearingalong,thickandmuddy,andwithafearfulroar,“Andeachwavewascrestedwithtawnyfoam,Likethemaneofachestnutsteed。“

Immenselogsofhewntimber,trees,roots,branches,andfaggots,werecomingdowninnumbers。Theabutmentonthissidewasmuchundermined,but,exceptthatthecentralpiertrembledwheneveralogstruckit,thebridgeitselfstoodfirm——sofirm,indeed,thattwomen,anxioustosavesomepropertyontheotherside,crosseditafterIarrived。Thenlogsofplanedtimberoflargesize,andjoints,andmuchwreckage,camedown——fullyfortyfinetimbers,thirtyfeetlong,forthefinebridgeabovehadgivenway。MostoftheharvestoflogscutontheYadatePassmusthavebeenlost,forover300werecarrieddownintheshorttimeinwhichIwatchedtheriver。Thisisaveryheavylosstothisvillage,whichlivesbythetimbertrade。Effortsweremadeatabankhigheruptocatchthemastheydriftedby,buttheyonlysavedaboutoneintwenty。

Itwasmostexcitin

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