Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第34章

butthebathersweretoopolitetotakeanynoticeofmymostunwillingintrusion,andthekuruma-runnertookmeinwithouttheslightestsenseofimproprietyinsodoing。Inoticedthatformalpolitenessprevailedinthebath-houseaselsewhere,andthatdippersandtowelswerehandedfromonetoanotherwithprofoundbows。Thepublicbath-houseissaidtobetheplaceinwhichpublicopinionisformed,asitiswithusinclubsandpublic-

houses,andthatthepresenceofwomenpreventsanydangerousorseditiousconsequences;buttheGovernmentisdoingitsbesttopreventpromiscuousbathing;and,thoughthereformmaytravelslowlyintotheseremoteregions,itwilldoubtlessarrivesoonerorlater。Thepublicbath-houseisoneofthefeaturesofJapan。

AHardDay’sJourney——AnOverturn——NearingtheOcean——JoyfulExcitement——UniversalGreyness——InopportunePolicemen——AStormyVoyage——AWildWelcome——AWindyLanding——TheJourney’sEnd。

ThejourneyfromKuroishitoAomori,thoughonly22。5miles,wasatremendousone,owingtothestateoftheroads;formorerainhadfallen,andthepassageofhundredsofpack-horsesheavilyloadedwithsalt-fishhadturnedthetracksintoquagmires。AttheendofthefirststagetheTransportOfficedeclinedtofurnishakuruma,owingtothestateoftheroads;but,asIwasnotwellenoughtoridefarther,Ibribedtwomenforaverymoderatesumtotakemetothecoast;andbyaccommodatingeachotherwegotontolerably,thoughIhadtowalkupallthehillsanddownmany,togetoutateveryplacewherealittlebridgehadbeencarriedaway,thatthekurumamightbeliftedoverthegap,andoftentowalkfor200

yardsatatime,becauseitsankuptoitsaxlesinthequagmire。

InspiteofallprecautionsIwasupsetintoamuddyditch,withthekurumaonthetopofme;but,asmyair-pillowfortunatelyfellbetweenthewheelandme,Iescapedwithnothingworsethanhavingmyclothessoakedwithwaterandmud,which,asIhadtokeepthemonallnight,mighthavegivenmecold,butdidnot。Wemetstringsofpack-horsesthewholeway,carryingsalt-fish,whichistakenthroughouttheinterior。

Themountain-ridge,whichrunsthroughouttheMainIsland,becomesdepressedintheprovinceofNambu,butrisesagainintogrand,abrupthillsatAomoriBay。BetweenKuroishiandAomori,however,itisbrokenupintolowranges,scantilywooded,mainlywithpine,scruboak,andthedwarfbamboo。TheSesamumignosco,ofwhichtheincense-sticksaremade,coverssomehillstotheexclusionofallelse。Ricegrowsinthevalleys,butthereisnotmuchcultivation,andthecountrylooksrough,cold,andhyperborean。

Thefarminghamletsgrewworseandworse,withhousesmaderoughlyofmud,withholesscratchedinthesideforlighttogetin,orforsmoketogetout,andthewallsofsomewereonlygreatpiecesofbarkandbundlesofstrawtiedtothepostswithstrawropes。

Theroofswereuntidy,butthiswasoftenconcealedbytheprofusegrowthofthewater-melonswhichtrailedoverthem。Thepeoplewereverydirty,buttherewasnoappearanceofspecialpoverty,andagooddealofmoneymustbemadeonthehorsesandmagorequiredforthetransitoffishfromYezo,andforricetoit。

AtNamiokaoccurredthelastoftheverynumerousridgeswehavecrossedsinceleavingNikkoatapointcalledTsugarusaka,andfromitlookedoveraruggedcountryuponadark-greysea,nearlylandlockedbypine-clothedhills,

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