Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第46章

APartingGift——ADelicacy——Generosity——ASeasideVillage——

Pipichari’sAdvice——ADrunkenRevel——Ito’sProphecies——TheKocho’sIllness——PatentMedicines。

IlefttheAinosyesterdaywithrealregret,thoughImustconfessthatsleepinginone’sclothesandthelackofablutionsareveryfatiguing。Benri’stwowivesspenttheearlymorninginthelaboriousoperationofgrindingmilletintocoarseflour,andbeforeIdeparted,astheircustomis,theymadeapasteofit,rolleditwiththeiruncleanfingersintowell-shapedcakes,boiledthemintheunwashedpotinwhichtheymaketheirstewof“abominablethings,“andpresentedthemtomeonalacquertray。

TheyweredistressedthatIdidnoteattheirfood,andawomanwenttoavillageatsomedistanceandbroughtmesomevenisonfatasadelicacy。AllthoseofwhomIhadseenmuchcametowishmegood-bye,andtheybroughtsomanypresents(includingafinebearskin)thatIshouldhaveneededanadditionalhorsetocarrythemhadIacceptedbutone-half。

IrodetwelvemilesthroughtheforesttoMombets,whereIintendedtospendSunday,butIhadtheworsthorseIeverrode,andwetookfivehours。Thedaywasdullandsad,threateningastorm,andwhenwegotoutoftheforest,uponasand-hillcoveredwithoakscrub,weencounteredamostfuriouswind。AmongthemanyviewswhichIhaveseen,thatisonetoberemembered。Belowlayableachedandbaresand-hill,withafewgreyhouseshuddledinitsmiserableshelter,andaheaped-upshoreofgreysand,onwhichabrown-greyseawasbreakingwithclashandboominlong,white,raggedlines,withallbeyondaconfusionofsurf,surge,andmist,withdrivingbrowncloudsminglingseaandsky,andallbetweenshowingonlyinglimpsesamidstscudsofsand。

Atahouseinthescrubanumberofmenweredrinkingsakewithmuchuproar,andasuperb-lookingAinocameout,staggeredafewyards,andthenfellbackwardsamongtheweeds,apictureofdebasement。IforgottotellyouthatbeforeIleftBiratori,I

inveighedtotheassembledAinosagainstthepracticeandconsequencesofsake-drinking,andwasmetwiththereply,“Wemustdrinktothegods,orweshalldie;“butPipicharisaid,“Yousaythatwhichisgood;letusgivesaketothegods,butnotdrinkit,“forwhichboldspeechhewasseverelyrebukedbyBenri。

Mombetsisastormily-situatedandmostwretchedclusteroftwenty-

sevendecayedhouses,someofthemAino,andsomeJapanese。Thefish-oilandseaweedfishingtradesareinbriskoperationtherenowforashorttime,andanumberofAinoandJapanesestrangersareemployed。Theboatscouldnotgetoutbecauseofthesurf,andtherewasadrunkendebauch。Thewholeplacesmeltofsake。Tipsymenwerestaggeringaboutandfallingflatontheirbacks,tolietherelikedogstilltheyweresober,——Ainowomenwerevainlyendeavouringtodragtheirdrunkenlordshome,andmenofbothraceswerereducedtoabeastlyequality。IwenttotheyadoyawhereIintendedtospendSunday,but,besidesbeingverydirtyandforlorn,itwastheverycentreofthesaketraffic,andinitsopenspacethereweremeninallstagesofriotousandstupidintoxication。Itwasasadscene,yetonetobematchedinahundredplacesinScotlandeverySaturdayafternoon。IamtoldbytheKochoherethatanAinocandrinkfourorfivetimesasmuchasaJapanesewithoutbeingtipsy,soforeachtipsyAinotherehadbeenanoutlayof6s。or7s。,forsakeis8d。acuphere!

Ihadsometeaandeggsinthedaidokoro,andalteredmyplansaltogetheronfindingthatifIproceededfartherroundtheeastcoast,asIintended,Ishouldruntheriskofseveraldays’

detentiononthebanksofnumerous“badrivers“ifraincameon,bywhichIshouldruntheriskofbreakingmypromisetodeliverItotoMr。Mariesbyagivenday。Idonotsurrenderthisproject,however,withoutanequivalent,forIintendtoadd100milestomyjourney,bytakinganalmostdisusedtrackroundVolcanoBay,andvisitingthecoastAinosofaveryprimitiveregion。Itoisverymuchopposedtothis,thinkingthathehasmade

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