Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第22章

ThroughouttheprovinceofEchigoIhaveoccasionallyseenapieceofcottonclothsuspendedbyitsfourcornersfromfourbamboopolesjustaboveaquietstream。Behinditthereisusuallyalongnarrowtablet,notchedatthetop,similartothoseseenincemeteries,withcharactersuponit。Sometimesbouquetsofflowersareplacedinthehollowtopofeachbamboo,andusuallytherearecharactersontheclothitself。Withinitalwaysliesawoodendipper。IncomingdownfromTenokoIpassedoneoftheseclosetotheroad,andaBuddhistpriestwasatthetimepouringadipperfullofwaterintoit,whichstrainedslowlythrough。Ashewasgoingourwaywejoinedhim,andheexplaineditsmeaning。

Accordingtohimthetabletbearsonitthekaimiyo,orposthumousnameofawoman。Theflowershavethesamesignificanceasthosewhichlovinghandsplaceonthegravesofkindred。Iftherearecharactersonthecloth,theyrepresentthewell-knowninvocationoftheNichirensect,Namumiohorengekio。Thepouringofthewaterintothecloth,oftenaccompaniedbytellingthebeadsonarosary,isaprayer。Thewholeiscalled“TheFlowingInvocation。“

Ihaveseldomseenanythingmoreplaintivelyaffecting,foritdenotesthatamotherinthefirstjoyofmaternityhaspassedawaytosuffer(accordingtopopularbelief)intheLakeofBlood,oneoftheBuddhisthells,forasincommittedinaformerstateofbeing,anditappealstoeverypasser-bytoshortenthepenaltiesofawomaninanguish,forinthatlakeshemustremainuntiltheclothissoutterlywornoutthatthewaterfallsthroughitatonce。

WherethemountainscomedownupontheplainofYonezawathereareseveralraisedbanks,andyoucantakeonestepfromthehillsidetoadeadlevel。Thesoilisdryandgravellyatthejunction,ridgesofpinesappeared,andthelookofthehousessuggestedincreasedcleanlinessandcomfort。AwalkofsixmilestookusfromTenokotoKomatsu,abeautifullysituatedtownof3000people,withalargetradeincottongoods,silk,andsake。

AsIenteredKomatsuthefirstmanwhomImetturnedbackhastily,calledintothefirsthousethewordswhichmean“Quick,here’saforeigner;“thethreecarpenterswhowereatworkthereflungdowntheirtoolsand,withoutwaitingtoputontheirkimonos,speddownthestreetcallingoutthenews,sothatbythetimeIreachedtheyadoyaalargecrowdwaspressinguponme。Thefrontwasmeanandunpromising-looking,but,onreachingthebackbyastonebridgeoverastreamwhichranthroughthehouse,Ifoundaroom40feetlongby15high,entirelyopenalongonesidetoagardenwithalargefish-pondwithgoldfish,apagoda,dwarftrees,andalltheusualminiatureadornments。Fusumaofwrinkledbluepapersplashedwithgoldturnedthis“gallery“intotworooms;buttherewasnoprivacy,forthecrowdsclimbedupontheroofsattheback,andsattherepatientlyuntilnight。

Theseweredaimiyo’srooms。Thepostsandceilingswereebonyandgold,thematsveryfine,thepolishedalcovesdecoratedwithinlaidwriting-tablesandsword-racks;spearsninefeetlong,withhandlesoflacquerinlaidwithVenus’ear,hungintheverandah,thewashingbowlwasfineinlaidblacklacquer,andtherice-bowlsandtheircoversweregoldlacquer。

Inthis,asinmanyotheryadoyas,therewerekakemonoswithlargeChinesecharactersrepresentingthenamesofthePrimeMinister,ProvincialGovernor,ordistinguishedGeneral,whohadhonoureditbyhaltingthere,andlinesofpoetrywerehungup,asisusual,inthesamefashion。Ihaveseveraltimesbeenaskedtowritesomethingtobethusdisplayed。IspentSundayatKomatsu,butnotrestfully,owingtothenocturnalcroakingofthefrogsinthepond。Init,asinmosttowns,therewereshopswhichsellnothingbutwhite,frothy-lookingcakes,whichareusedforthegoldfishwhicharesomuchprized,andthreetimesdailythewomenandchildrenofthehouseholdcameintothegardentofeedthem。

WhenIleftKomatsutherewerefullysixtypeopleinsidethehouseand1500outside——walls,verandahs,andevenroofsbeingpacked。

FromNikkotoKomatsumareshadbeenexclusivelyused,butthereI

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