Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第26章

TheNecessityofFirmness——PerplexingMisrepresentations——GlidingwiththeStream——SuburbanResidences——TheKubotaHospital——AFormalReception——TheNormalSchool。

IarrivedhereonMondayafternoonbytheriverOmono,whatwouldhavebeentwolongdays’journeybylandhavingbeeneasilyaccomplishedinninehoursbywater。Thiswasaninstanceofformingaplanwisely,andadheringtoitresolutely!FirmnessintravellingisnowheremorenecessarythaninJapan。Idecidedsometimeago,fromMr。Brunton’smap,thattheOmonomustbenavigablefromShingoji,andaweekagotoldItotoinquireaboutit,butateachplacedifficultieshavebeenstarted。Therewastoomuchwater,therewastoolittle;therewerebadrapids,therewereshallows;itwastoolateintheyear;alltheboatswhichhadstartedlatelywerelyingaground;butatoneoftheferriesIsawinthedistanceamerchandiseboatgoingdown,andtoldItoI

shouldgothatwayandnoother。OnarrivingatShingojitheysaiditwasnotontheOmonoatall,butonastreamwithsomeverybadrapids,inwhichboatsarebrokentopieces。Lastly,theysaidtherewasnoboat,butonmysayingthatIwouldsendtenmilesforone,asmall,flat-bottomedscowwasproducedbytheTransportAgent,intowhichIto,theluggage,andmyselfaccuratelyfitted。

Itosententiouslyobserved,“Notonethinghasbeentoldusonourjourneywhichhasturnedouttrue!“Thisisnotanexaggeration。

Theusualcrowddidnotassembleroundthedoor,butprecededmetotheriver,whereitcoveredthebanksandclusteredinthetrees。

Fourpolicemenescortedmedown。Thevoyageofforty-twomileswasdelightful。Therapidswereamereripple,thecurrentwasstrong,oneboatmanalmostsleptuponhispaddle,theotheronlywoketobaletheboatwhenitwashalf-fullofwater,theshoresweresilentandpretty,andalmostwithoutpopulationtillwereachedthelargetownofAraya,whichstragglesalongahighbankforaconsiderabledistance,andafterninepeacefulhoursweturnedofffromthemainstreamoftheOmonojustattheoutskirtsofKubota,andpoledupanarrow,greenriver,fringedbydilapidatedbacksofhouses,boat-buildingyards,andraftsoftimberononeside,anddwelling-houses,gardens,anddampgreeneryontheother。Thisstreamiscrossedbyverynumerousbridges。

Igotacheerfulupstairsroomatamostfriendlyyadoya,andmythreedaysherehavebeenfullyoccupiedandverypleasant。

“Foreignfood“——agoodbeef-steak,anexcellentcurry,cucumbers,andforeignsaltandmustard,wereatonceobtained,andIfeltmy“eyeslightened“afterpartakingofthem。

KubotaisaveryattractiveandpurelyJapanesetownof36,000

people,thecapitalofAkitaken。Afinemountain,calledTaiheisan,risesaboveitsfertilevalley,andtheOmonofallsintotheSeaofJapanclosetoit。Ithasanumberofkurumas,but,owingtoheavysandandthebadnessoftheroads,theycanonlygothreemilesinanydirection。Itisatownofactivityandbrisktrade,andmanufacturesasilkfabricinstripesofblueandblack,andyellowandblack,muchusedformakinghakamaandkimonos,aspeciesofwhitesilkcrepewitharaisedwoof,whichbringsahighpriceinTokiyoshops,fusuma,andclogs。Thoughitisacastletown,itisfreefromtheusual“deadly-lively“look,andhasanairofprosperityandcomfort。Thoughithasfewstreetsofshops,itcoversagreatextentofgroundwithstreetsandlanesofpretty,isolateddwelling-houses,surroundedbytrees,gardens,andwell-trimmedhedges,eachgardenenteredbyasubstantialgateway。

Theexistenceofsomethinglikeamiddleclasswithhomeprivacyandhomelifeissuggestedbythesemilesofcomfortable“suburbanresidences。“Foreigninfluenceishardlyatallfelt,thereisnotasingleforeignerinGovernmentoranyotheremployment,andeventhehospitalwasorganisedfromthebeginnin

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