Unbeaten Tracks in Japan

第27章

“APlagueofImmoderateRain“——AConfidentialServant——Ito’sDiary——

Ito’sExcellences——Ito’sFaults——ProphecyoftheFutureofJapan——

CuriousQueries——SuperfineEnglish——EconomicalTravelling——TheJapanesePack-horseagain。

Iamherestill,notaltogetherbecausethetownisfascinating,butbecausetherainissoceaselessastobetruly“aplagueofimmoderaterainandwaters。“Travellerskeepcominginwithstoriesoftheimpassabilityoftheroadsandthecarryingawayofbridges。Itoamusesmeverymuchbyhisremarks。HethinksthatmyvisittotheschoolandhospitalmusthaveraisedJapaninmyestimation,andheistalkingratherbig。HeaskedmeifInoticedthatallthestudentskepttheirmouthsshutlikeeducatedmenandresidentsofTokiyo,andthatallcountrypeoplekeeptheirsopen。

Ihavesaidlittleabouthimforsometime,butIdailyfeelmoredependentonhim,notonlyforallinformation,butactuallyforgettingon。Atnighthehasmywatch,passport,andhalfmymoney,andIoftenwonderwhatwouldbecomeofmeifheabscondedbeforemorning。Heisnotagoodboy。Hehasnomoralsense,accordingtoournotions;hedislikesforeigners;hismannerisoftenverydisagreeable;andyetIdoubtwhetherIcouldhaveobtainedamorevaluableservantandinterpreter。WhenweleftTokiyohespokefairlygoodEnglish,butbypracticeandindustriousstudyhenowspeaksbetterthananyofficialinterpreterthatIhaveseen,andhisvocabularyisdailyincreasing。Heneverusesawordinaccuratelywhenhehasoncegotholdofitsmeaning,andhismemoryneverfails。HekeepsadiarybothinEnglishandJapanese,anditshowsmuchpainstakingobservation。Hereadsittomesometimes,anditisinterestingtohearwhatayoungmanwhohastravelledasmuchashehasregardsasnovelinthisnorthernregion。Hehasmadeahotelbookandatransportbook,inwhichallthebillsandreceiptsarewritten,andhedailytransliteratesthenamesofallplacesintoEnglishletters,andputsdownthedistancesandthesumspaidfortransportandhotelsoneachbill。

HeinquiresthenumberofhousesineachplacefromthepoliceorTransportAgent,andthespecialtradeofeachtown,andnotesthemdownforme。Hetakesgreatpainstobeaccurate,andoccasionallyremarksaboutsomepieceofinformationthatheisnotquitecertainabout,“Ifit’snottrue,it’snotworthhaving。“Heisneverlate,neverdawdles,nevergoesoutintheeveningexceptonerrandsforme,nevertouchessake,isneverdisobedient,neverrequirestobetoldthesamethingtwice,isalwayswithinhearing,hasagooddealoftactastowhatherepeats,andallwithanundisguisedviewtohisowninterest。Hesendsmostofhiswagestohismother,whoisawidow——“It’sthecustomofthecountry“——

andseemstospendtheremainderonsweetmeats,tobacco,andtheluxuryoffrequentshampooing。

Thathewouldtellalieifitservedhispurpose,andwould“squeeze“uptothelimitsofextortion,ifhecoulddoitunobserved,Ihavenottheslightestdoubt。Heseemstohavebutlittleheart,oranyideaofanybutviciouspleasures。Hehasnoreligionofanykind;hehasbeentoomuchwithforeignersforthat。Hisfranknessissomethingstartling。Hehasnoideaofreticenceonanysubject;butprobablyIlearnmoreaboutthingsastheyreallyarefromthisverydefect。Invirtueinmanorwoman,exceptinthatofhisformermaster,hehaslittle,ifanybelief。

HethinksthatJapanisrightinavailingherselfofthediscoveriesmadebyforeigners,thattheyhaveasmuchtolearnfromher,andthatshewilloutstripthemintherace,becauseshetakesallthatisworthhaving,andrejectstheincubusofChristianity。Patriotismis,Ithink,hisstrongestfeeling,andI

nevermetwithsuchaboastfuldisplayofit,exceptinaScotchmanoranAmerican。Hedespisestheuneducated,ashecanreadandwriteboththesyllabaries。Forforeignrankorpositionhehasnotanatomofreverenceorvalue,butagreatdealofbothforJapaneseofficialdom。Hedespisestheintellectsofwomen,butflirtsinatown-bredfashionwiththesimpletea-hou

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