第15章

Inawrittenwordofgood—bytoHowells，Clemensrememberedadebtofgratitude，andpaiditinthefullmeasurethatwashishabit。

Andthatremindsme，ungratefuldogthatIam，thatIoweasmuchtoyourtrainingastherudecountryjob—printerowestothecitybosswhotakeshiminhandandteacheshimtherightwaytohandlehisart。IwastalkingtoMrs。Clemensaboutthistheotherday，andgrievingbecauseInevermentionedittoyou，therebyseemingtoignoreitortobeunawareofit。Nothingthathaspassedunderyoureyeneedsanyrevisionbeforegoingintoavolume，whileallmyotherstuffdoesneedsomuch。

Inthatancientday，beforethewirelesstelegraph，thevoyager，whenthelandfellawaybehindhim，feltamightysenseofreliefandrest，whichtosomeextenthasgonenowforever。Hecannotentirelyescapetheworldinthisnewday；butthenhehadacompletesenseofdismissalfromallencumberingcaresoflife。Amongthefirstnote—bookentriesMarkTwainwrote：

Togoabroadhassomethingofthesamesensethatdeathbrings——"Iamnolongerofye；whatyesayofmeisnowofnoconsequence——butofhowmuchconsequencewhenIamwithyeandofye。Iknowyouwillrefrainfromsayingharshthingsbecausetheycannothurtme，sinceIamoutofreachandcannothearthem。Thisiswhywesaynoharshthingsofthedead。"

Itwasaroughvoyageoutside，butthecompanymadeitpleasantwithin。

HalsteadandTaylorweregoodsmoking—roomcompanions。Taylorhadalargecapacityforlanguagesandamemorythatwasalwaysamarvel。HewouldrepeatforthemArabian，Hungarian，andRussianpoetry，andshowthemthemusicandconstructionofit。HesangGermanfolk—loresongsforthem，andthe"Lorelei，"thencomparativelyunknowninAmerica。SuchwashisknowledgeofthelanguagethateveneducatedGermansonboardsubmittedquestionsofconstructiontohimandacceptedhisdecisions。

Hewaswiselychosenforthemissionhehadtofill，butunfortunatelyhedidnotfillitlong。BothHalsteadandTaylorweresaidtohavehearttrouble。Halstead，however，survivedmanyyears。TaylordiedDecember19，1878。

CXVII

GERMANYANDGERMAN

>Fromthenote—book：

Itisamarvelthatneverlosesitssurprisebyrepetition，thisaimingashipatamarkthreethousandmilesawayandhittingthebull’s—eyeinafog——aswedid。Whenthefogfellonusthecaptainsaidweoughttobeatsuchandsuchaspot(ithadbeeneighteenhourssinceanobservationwashad)，withtheScillyislandsbearingsoandso，andaboutsomanymilesaway。Hovetheleadandgotforty—eightfathoms；lookedonthechart，andsureenoughthisdepthofwatershowedthatwewererightwherethecaptainsaidwewere。

Anotheridea。ForagesmanprobablydidnotknowwhyGodcarpetedtheoceanbottomwithsandinoneplace，shellsinanother，andsoon。Butweseenow；thekindofbottomtheleadbringsupshowswhereashipiswhenthesoundingsdon’t，andalsoitconfirmsthesoundings。

TheyreachedHamburgaftertwoweeks’stormysailing。Theyrestedafewdaysthere，thenwenttoHanoverandFrankfort，arrivingatHeidelbergearlyinMay。

TheyhadnolodgingsselectedinHeidelberg，andleavingtheothersataninn，Clemenssetoutimmediatelytofindapartments。Chanceordirection，orboth，ledhimtothebeautifulSchlossHotel，onahilloverlookingthecity，andasfairaviewasonemayfindinallGermany。

Hedidnotgobackafterhisparty。HesentamessagetellingthemtotakecarriageanddriveatoncetotheSchloss，thenhesatdowntoenjoytheview。

Comingupthehilltheysawhimstandingontheveranda，wavinghishatinwelcome。Heledthemtotheirrooms——spaciousapartments——andpointedtotheview。TheywerelookingdownonbeautifulHeidelbergCastle，denselywoodedhills，thefar—flowingNeckar，andthehaze—empurpledvalleyoftheRhine。Byandby，pointingtoasmallcottageonthehilltop，hesaid：

"Ihavebeenpickingoutmylittlehousetoworkin；thereitisoverthere；theonewiththegableintheroof。Mineisthemiddleroomonthethirdfloor。"

Mrs。Clemensthoughttheoccupantsofthehousemightbesurprisedifheshouldsuddenlyknockandtellthemhehadcometotakepossessionofhisroom。Nevertheless，theyoftenlookedoverinthatdirectionandreferredtoitashisoffice。Theyamusedthemselvesbywatchinghis"people"andtryingtomakeoutwhattheywerelike。Onedayhewentoverthere，andsureenoughtherewasasignout，"MoblirteWohnungzuVermiethen。"Adayortwolaterhewasestablishedintheveryroomhehadselected，itbeingtheonlyroombutonevacant。

InATrampAbroadMarkTwaintellsofthebeautyoftheirHeidelbergenvironment。ToHowellshewrote：

Ourbedroomhastwogreatglassbird—cages(inclosedbalconies)，onelookingtowardtheRhineValleyandsunset，theotherlookinguptheNeckarcul—de—sac，andnaturallywespendpearlyallourtimeinthese。Wehavetablesandchairsinthem；wedoourreading，writing，studying，smoking，andsupperinginthem……Itmusthavebeenanoblegeniuswhodevisedthishotel。Lord，howblessedistherepose，thetranquillityofthisplace！Onlytwosounds：thehappyclamorofthebirdsinthegrovesandthemuffledmusicoftheNeckartumblingovertheopposingdikes。Itisnohardshiptolieawakeawhilenights，forthissubduedroarhasexactlythesoundofasteadyrainbeatinguponaroof。Itissohealingtothespirit；anditbearsupthethreadofone’simaginingsastheaccompanimentbearsupasong……

Ihavewaitedfora"call"togotowork——Iknewitwouldcome。

Well，itbegantocomeaweekago；mynote—bookcomesoutmoreandmorefrequentlyeverydaysince；threedaysagoIconcludedtomovemymanuscriptsovertomyden。Nowthecallisloudanddecidedatlast。Soto—morrowIshallbeginregular，steadywork，andsticktoittillthemiddleofJulyorAugust1st，whenIlookforTwichell；

wewillthenwalkaboutGermanytwoorthreeweeks，andthenI’llgotoworkagain(perhapsinMunich)。

ThewalkingtourwithTwichellhadbeencontemplatedintheschemeforgatheringbookmaterial，buttheplanforithadnotbeencompletedwhenheleftHartford。Nowhewasanxiousthattheyshouldstartassoonaspossible。Twichell，receivingthenewsinHartford，wrotethatitwasagreatdayforhim：thathisthirdsonhadbeenhappilybornearlythatmorning，andnowthearrivalofthisgloriousgiftofatrampthroughGermanyandSwitzerlandcompletedhisblessings。

Iamalmosttoojoyfulforpleasure[hewrote]。Ilaborwithmyfelicities。HowIshallgettosleepto—nightIdon’tknow，thoughIhavehadagoodstart，innothavingsleptmuchlastnight。Oh，my！doyourealize，Mark，whatasymposiumitistobe？Ido。Tobeginwith，Iamthoroughlytiredandtherestwillbewortheverything。Towalkwithyouandtalkwithyouforweekstogether——

why，it’smydreamofluxury。Harmony，whoatsunrisethismorningdeemedherselfthehappiestwomanontheContinentwhenIreadyourlettertoher，widenedhersmileperceptibly，andrevivedanotherdegreeofstrengthinaminute。Sherefusedtoconsiderherbeingleftalone；but：onlythegreatchanceopenedtome。

SHOES——Mark，rememberthateversomuchofourpleasuredependsuponyourshoes。Don’tfailtohaveadequatepreparationmadeinthatdepartment。

Meantime，thestrugglewiththe"awfulGermanlanguage"wenton。Itwasageneralhand—to—handcontest。FromtheheadofthehouseholddowntolittleClaranotonewasexempt。ToClemensitbecameasortofnightmare。Onceinhisnote—bookhesays：

"DreamedallbadforeignerswenttoGermanheaven；couldn’ttalk，andwishedtheyhadgonetotheotherplace"；andalittlefartheralong，"IwishIcouldhearmyselftalkGerman。"

ToMrs。Crane，inElmira，hereportedtheirtroubles：

ClaraSpauldingisworkingherselftodeathwithherGerman；neverlosesaninstantwhilesheisawake——orasleep，either，forthatmatter；dreamsofenormousserpents，whopoketheirheadsupunderherarmsandglareuponherwithred—hoteyes，andinquireaboutthegenitivecaseandthedeclensionsofthedefinitearticle。Livyisbully—raggingherselfaboutashard；pestersoverhergrammarandherreaderandherdictionaryallday；thenintheeveningthesetwostudentsstretchthemselvesoutonsofasandsighandsay，"Oh，there’snouse！Wenevercanlearnitintheworld！"ThenLivytakesasentencetogotobedon：goesgapingandstretchingtoherpillowmurmuring，"IchbinIhnensehrverbunden——IchbinIhnensehrverbunden——IchbinIhnensehrverbunden——IwonderifIcangetthatpackedawaysoitwillstaytillmorning"——andaboutanhouraftermidnightshewakesmeupandsays，"Idosohatetodisturbyou，butisit’IchBenJonsonsehrbefinden’？"

AndMrs。Clemenswrote：

Oh，Suedear，strivetoenterinatthestraightgate，formanyshallseektoenteritandshallnotbeable。Iamnotstrivingthesedays。IamjustinterestedinGerman。

Rosa，themaid，wasrequiredtospeaktothechildrenonlyinGerman，thoughBayatfirstwouldhavenoneofit。Thenurseandgovernesstriedtoblandishher，invain。Shemaintainedacalmandpersistentattitudeofscorn。LittleSusytried，andreallymadeprogress；butone，dayshesaid，pathetically：

"Mama，IwishRosawasmadeinEnglish。"

YetalittlelaterSusyherselfwroteherAuntSue：

IknowalotofGerman；everybodysaysIknowalot。Igiveyouamilliondollarstoseeyou，andyouwouldgivetwohundreddollarstoseethelovelywoodsthatwesee。

EvenHowells，infar—offAmerica，caughttheinfectionandbeganaletterinGerman，thoughhehastenedtoadd，"OrdoyoupreferEnglishbythistime？ReallyIcouldimaginetheGermangoinghardwithyou，foryoualwaysseemedtomeamanwholikedtobeunderstoodwiththeleastpossiblepersonalinconvenience。"

Clemensdeclaredmorethanoncethathescornedthe"outrageousandimpossibleGermangrammar，"andabandoneditaltogether。Inhisnote—

bookherecordshowtwoGermans，strangersinHeidelberg，askedhimadirection，andthatwhenhegaveit，inthemostelaborateandcorrectGermanhecouldmuster，oneofthemonlyliftedhiseyesandmurmured：

"GottimHimmel！"

Hewasdailyimpressedwiththelingualattainmentsofforeignersandhisownlackofthem。Inthenoteshecomments：

AmaddressedinGerman，andwhenIcan’tspeakitimmediatelythepersontacklesmeinFrench，andplainlyshowsastonishmentwhenI

stophim。Theynaturallydespisesuchanignoramus。OurdoctorherespeaksaspureEnglish，asI。

OntheFourthofJulyheaddressedtheAmericanstudentsinHeidelberginoneofthosemixturesoftonguesforwhichhehadapeculiargift。

TheroomhehadrentedforastudywasletbyatypicalGermanfamily，andhewasagreatdelighttothem。HepractisedhisGermanonthem，andinterestedhimselfintheirdailyaffairs。

HowellswroteinsistentlyforsomeassuranceofcontributionstotheAtlantic。

Imustbeginprintingyourprivateletterstosatisfythepopulardemand，"hesaid。"Peopleareconstantlyaskingwhenyouaregoingtobegin。"

ClemensrepliedthathewouldbeonlytoogladtowritefortheAtlanticifhiscontributionscouldbecopyrightedinCanada，wherepirateswerepersistentlyenterprising。

IdonotknowthatIhaveanyprintablestuffjustnow——separatablestuff，thatis——butIshallhavebyandby。Itisverygratifyingtohearthatitiswantedbyanybody。Istandalwayspreparedtohearthereverse，andamconstantlysurprisedthatitisdelayedsolong。

Consequentlyitisnotgoingtoastonishmewhenitcomes。

TheClemenspartyenjoyedHeidelberg，thoughindifferentways。Thechildrenrompedandpicnickedinthecastlegrounds，whichadjoinedthehotel；Mrs。ClemensandMissSpauldingweredevotedtobric—a—brachunting，picture—galleries，andmusic。Clemenstooklongwalks，ormadeexcursionsbyrailanddiligencetofartherpoints。Artandoperadidnotappealtohim。Thenote—booksays：

Ihaveattendedoperas，wheneverIcouldnothelpit，forfourteenyearsnow；IamsureIknowofnoagonycomparabletothelisteningtoanunfamiliaropera。Iamenchantedwiththeairsof"Trovatore"

andotheroldoperaswhichthehand—organandthemusic—boxhavemadeentirelyfamiliartomyear。Iamcarriedawaywithdelightedenthusiasmwhentheyaresungattheopera。Butoh，howfarbetweentheyare！Andwhatlong，arid，heartbreakingandheadaching"between—times"ofthatsortofintensebutincoherentnoisewhichalwayssoremindsmeofthetimetheorphanasylumburneddown。

Sundaynight，11th。Hugecrowdoutto—nighttohearthebandplaythe"Fremersberg。"Isupposeitisverylow—grademusic——Iknowitmustbelow—grademusic——becauseitsodelightedme，itsowarmedme，movedme，stirredme，upliftedme，enrapturedme，thatattimesIcouldhavecried，andatotherssplitmythroatwithshouting。

Thegreatcrowdwasanotherevidencethatitwaslow—grademusic，foronlythefewareeducateduptoapointwherehigh—classmusicgivespleasure。Ihaveneverheardenoughclassicmusictobeabletoenjoyit，andthesimpletruthisIdetestit。Notmildly，butwithallmyheart。

Whatapoorlotwehumanbeingsareanyway！Ifbasemusicgivesmewings，whyshouldIwantanyother？ButIdo。Iwanttolikethehighermusicbecausethehigherandbetterlikeit。ButyouseeI

wanttolikeitwithouttakingthenecessarytrouble，andgivingthethingthenecessaryamountoftimeandattention。Thenaturalsuggestionis，togetintothatuppertier，thatdress—circle，byalie——wewillpretendwelikeit。Thislie，thispretense，givestooperawhatsupportithasinAmerica。

Andthenthereispainting。WhataredragistoabullTurner’s"SlaveShip"istome。Mr。Ruskiniseducatedinartuptoapointwherethatpicturethrowshimintoasmadanecstasyofpleasureasitthrowsmeintooneofrage。Hiscultivationenableshimtoseewaterinthatyellowmud；hiscultivationreconcilesthefloatingofunfloatablethingstohim——chainsetc。；itreconcileshimtofishesswimmingontopofthewater。Themostofthepictureisamanifestimpossibility，thatistosay，alie；andonlyrigidcultivationcanenableamantofindtruthinalie。ABostoncriticsaidthe"SlaveShip"remindedhimofacathavingafitinaplatteroftomatoes。Thatwenthometomynon—cultivation，andIthought，hereisamanwithanunobstructedeye。

MarkTwainhasdweltsomewhatuponthesemattersin’ATrampAbroad’。HeconfessesinthatbookthatlaterhebecameagreatadmirerofTurner，thoughperhapsneverofthe"SlaveShip"picture。Infact，MarkTwainwasneverartistic，inthecommonacceptanceofthatterm；neitherhisartnorhistasteswereofan"artistic"kind。

CXVIII

TRAMPINGWITHTWICHELL

Twichellarrivedontime，August1st。ClemensmethimatBaden—Baden，andtheyimmediatelysetoutonatrampthroughtheBlackForest，excursioningaspleasedthem，andhavinganidyllicgoodtime。Theydidnotalwayswalk，buttheyoftendid。Atleasttheydidsometimes，whentheweatherwasjustrightandClemens’srheumatismdidnottroublehim。

Buttheywerelikelytotakeacarriage，oradonkey—cart，oratrain，oranyconvenientthingthathappenedalong。Theydidnothurry，butidledandtalkedandgatheredflowers，orgossipedwithwaysidenativesandtourists，thoughalwayspreferringtowanderalongtogether，beguilingthewaywithdiscussionandspeculationandentertainingtales。TheycrossedonintoSwitzerlandinduetimeandconsideredtheconquestoftheAlps。Thefamilyfollowedbyrailordiligence，andgreetedthemhereandtherewhentheyrestedfromtheirwanderings。MarkTwainfoundanimmunityfromattentioninSwitzerland，whichforyearshehadnotknownelsewhere。Hisfacewasnotsowellknownandhispen—namewascarefullyconcealed。

Itwasalargerelieftobenolongeranobjectofpubliccuriosity；butTwichell，asintheBermudatrip，didnotfeelquitehonest，perhaps，inaltogetherpreservingthemaskofunrecognition。Inoneofhislettershomehetellshow；whenayoungmanattheirtablewasespeciallydelightedwithMarkTwain’sconversation，hecouldnotresisttakingtheyoungmanasideanddivulgingtohimthespeaker’sidentity。

"IcouldnotforbeartellinghimwhoMarkwas，"hesays，"andthemingledsurpriseandpleasurehisfaceexhibitedmademegladIhaddoneso。"

TheyclimbedtheRigi，afterwhichClemenswasnotingoodwalkingtrimforsometime；soTwichellwentonatriponhisownaccount，togivehiscomradeachancetorest。ThenawayagaintoInterlaken，wheretheJungfraurises，coldandwhite；onoverthelonelinessofGeminiPass，withglaciersforneighborsandtheunfadingwhitepeaksagainsttheblue；toVispandtoZermatt，wheretheMatterhornpointslikeafingerthatdirectsmankindtoGod。ThiswastrueAlpinewandering——sweetvagabondage。

Theassociationofthewandererswasaveryintimateone。Theirmindswerecloselyattuned，andtherewerenumerousinstancesofthought——echo—

mindansweringtomind——withouttheemploymentofwords。Clemensrecordsinhisnotes：

SundayA。M。，August11th。BeenreadingRomolayesterdayafternoon，lastnight，andthismorning；atlastIcameupontheonlypassagewhichhasthusfarhitmewithforce——Titocompromisingwithhisconscience，andresolvingtodo；notabadthing，butnotthebestthing。Joeenteredtheroomfiveminutes——no，threeminuteslater——

andwithoutpreludesaid，"Ireadthatbookyou’vegottheresixyearsago，andgotamightygoodtextforasermonoutofitthepassagewheretheyoungfellowcompromiseswithhisconscience，andresolvestodo，notabadthing，butnotthebestthing。"ThisisJoe’sfirstreferencetothisbooksincehesawmebuyittwenty—

fourhoursago。Somymindoperatedonhisinthisinstance。Hesaidhewassittingyonderinthereading—room，threeminutesago(I

havenotgotupyet)，thinkingofnothinginparticular，anddidn’tknowwhatbroughtRomolaintohishead；butintohisheaditcameandthatparticularpassage。NowI，fortyfeetaway，inanotherroom，wasreadingthatparticularpassageatthatparticularmoment。

Couldn’tsuggestRomolatohimearlier，becausenothinginthebookhadtakenholdofmetillIcametothatonepassageonpage112，Tauchnitzedition。

Andagain：

Theinstancesofmind—telegraphingaresimplyinnumerable。ThiseveningJoeandIsatlongattheedgeofthevillagelookingattheMatterhorn。ThenJoesaid，"WeoughttogototheCervinHotelandinquireforLivy’stelegram。"IfhehadbeenbutoneinstantlaterIshouldhavesaidthosewordsinsteadofhim。

Suchentriesarefrequent，andonedaytherecamealongakindofobject—

lesson。Theyweretoilingupamountainside，whenTwichellbegantellingaveryinterestingstorywhichhadhappenedinconnectionwithafriendstillliving，thoughTwichellhadnoknowledgeofhiswhereaboutsatthistime。Thestoryfinishedjustastheyroundedaturnin，thecliff，andTwichell，lookingup，endedhislastsentence，"Andthere’stheman！"

Whichwastrue，fortheywerefacetofacewiththeverymanofwhomhehadbeentelling。

Anothersubjectthatenteredintotheirdiscussionwasthelawofaccidents。Clemensheldthattherewasnosuchthinganaccident：thatitwasallforewritteninthedayofthebeginning；thateveryevent，howeverslight，wasembryonicinthatfirstinstantofcreatedlife，andimmutablytimedtoitsappearanceinthewebofdestiny。Onceontheirtravels，whentheywereonahighbankaboveabrawlingstream，alittlegirl，whostartedtoruntowardthem，slippedandrolledunderthebottomrailoftheprotectingfence，herfeetmomentarilyhangingoutovertheprecipiceandthetearingtorrentbelow。Itseemedamiraculousescapefromdeath，andfurnishedanillustrationfortheirdiscussion。Theconditionoftheground，theforceofherfall，thenearnessofthefataledge，allthesehadgrowninevitablyoutofthefirstgreatprojectionofthought，andthechild’sfallanditsescapehadbeeninvestedinlife’sprimalatom。

TheauthorofATrampAbroadtellsusoftherushingstreamthatflowsoutoftheArcadianskyvalley，theGasternthal，andgoesplungingdowntoKandersteg，andhowhetookexercisebymaking"Harris"(Twichell)setstrandedlogsadriftwhileheloungedcomfortablyonaboulder，andwatchedthemgotearingby；alsohowhemadeHarrisrunaracewithoneofthoselogs。Butthatisliterature。Twichell，inaletterhome，haspreservedalikelierandlovelierstory：

Markisaqueerfellow。Thereisnothingthathesodelightsinasaswift，strongstream。Youcanhardlygethimtoleaveonewhenonceheiswithintheinfluenceofitsfascinations。Tothrowinstonesandsticksseemstoaffordhimrapture。Tonight，aswewereonourwaybacktothehotel，seeingalotofdriftwoodcaughtbythetorrentsidebelowthepath，Iclimbeddownandthrewitin。

WhenIgotbacktothepathMarkwasrunningdown—streamafteritashardashecouldgo，throwinguphishandsandshoutinginthewildestecstasy，andwhenapiecewentoverafallandemergedtoviewinthefoambelowhewouldjumpupanddownandyell。Hesaidafterwardthathehadn’tbeensoexcitedinthreemonths。Heactedjustlikeaboy；anotherfeatureofhisextremesensitivenessincertaindirections。

Thengeneralizing，Twichelladds：

Hehascoarsespotsinhim。ButIneverknewapersonsofinelyregardfulofthefeelingsofothersinsomeways。Hehatestopassanotherpersonwalking，andwillpractisesomesubterfugetotakeoffwhathefeelsisthediscourtesyofit。Andheisexceedinglytimid，tremblinglytimid，aboutapproachingstrangers；hatestoaskaquestion。Hissensitiveregardforothersextendstoanimals。

Whenwearedrivinghisconcernisallaboutthehorse。Hecan’tbeartoseethewhipused，ortoseeahorsepullhard。To—day，whenthedrivercluckeduphishorseandquickenedhispacealittle，Marksaid，"Thefellow’sgotthenotionthatweareinahurry。"Heisexceedinglyconsideratetowardmeinregardofeverything——ormostthings。

Thedayswerenotallsunshine。Sometimesitrainedandtheytookshelterbythewayside，or，iftherewasnoshelter，theyploddedalongundertheirumbrellas，stilltalkingaway，andifsomethingoccurredthatClemenswantedtoputdowntheywouldstandstockstillintherain，andTwichellwouldholdtheumbrellawhileClemenswrote——agoodwhilesometimes——oblivioustostormanddiscomfortandthelongwayyetahead。

AfterthedayonGemmiPassTwichellwrotehome：

Mark，to—day，wasimmenselyabsorbedintheflowers。Hescrambledaroundandgatheredagreatvariety，andmanifestedtheintensestpleasureinthem。Hecrowdedapocketofhisnote—bookwithhisspecimensandwantedmoreroom。SoIstoppedtheguideandgotoutmyneedleandthread，andoutofastiffpaper，ahoteladvertisement，Ihadaboutmemadeapaperbag，acornucopialike，andtiedittohisvestinfront，anditansweredthepurposeadmirably。Hefilleditfullwithabeautifulcollection，andassoonaswegothereto—nighthetransferredittoacardboardboxandsentitbymailtoLivy。AstrangeMarkheis，fullofcontradictions。Ispokelastnightofhissensitivetoothers’

feelings。To—daytheguidegotbehind，andcameupasifhewouldliketogoby，yethesitatedtodoso。Markpaused，wentasideandbusiedhimselfaminutepickingaflower。Inthehalttheguidegotbyandresumedhisplaceinfront。Markthrewthefloweraway，saying，"Ididn’twantthat。Ionlywantedtogivetheoldmanachancetogoonwithoutseemingtopassus。"Markissplendidtowalkwithamidsuchgrandscenery，forhetalkssowellaboutit，hassuchapowerofstrong，picturesqueexpression。Iwishyoumighthaveheardhimto—day。Hisvigorousspeechnearlydidjusticetothethingswesaw。

InanaddresswhichTwichellgavemanyyearslaterherecallsanotherprettyincidentoftheirtravels。TheyhadbeentoilinguptheGornerGrat。

Aswepausedforarest，alambfromaflockofsheepnearbyventuredinquisitivelytowardus，whereuponMarkseatedhimselfonarock，andwithbeckoninghandandsoftwordstriedtogetittocometohim。

Onthelamb’spartitwasastrugglebetweencuriosityandtimidity，butinasuccessionofadvancesandretreatsitgainedconfidence，thoughataverygradualrate。Itwasasceneforapainter：thegreatAmericanhumoristononesideofthegameandthatsillylittlecreatureontheother，withtheMatterhornforabackground。Markwasremindedthatthetimehewasconsumingwasvaluable——buttonopurpose。TheGornerGratcouldwait。Heheldonwithundiscouragedperseverancetillhecarriedhispoint：thelambfinallyputitsnoseinhishand，andhewashappyoveritalltherestoftheday。

Thematterofreligioncameupnowandagaininthedriftoftheirdiscussions。ItwasTwichell’shabittohaveprayersintheirroomeverynightatthehotels，andClemenswaswillingtojoinintheobservances。

OnceTwichell，findinghiminaresponsivemood——aremorsefulmood——gavehissympathy，andspokeofthelargersympathyofdivinity。Clemenslistenedandseemedsoothedandimpressed，buthisphilosophiesweretoowideandtoodeepforcreedsanddoctrines。Adayortwolater，astheyweretrampingalonginthehotsun，hishonestyhadtospeakout。

"Joe，"hesaid，"I’mgoingtomakeaconfession。Idon’tbelieveinyourreligionatall。I’vebeenlivingalierightstraightalongwheneverI

pretendedto。Foramoment，sometimes，Ihavebeenalmostabeliever，butitimmediatelydriftsawayfrommeagain。Idon’tbelieveonewordofyourBiblewasinspiredbyGodanymorethananyotherbook。I

believeitisentirelytheworkofmanfrombeginningtoend——atonementandall。TheproblemoflifeanddeathandeternityandthetrueconceptionofGodisabiggerthingthaniscontainedinthatbook。"

Sothepersonalsideofreligiousdiscussionclosedbetweenthem，andwasneverafterwardreopened。

TheyjoinedMrs。ClemensandtheothersatLausanneatlast，andtheirSwissholidaywasover。TwichellsetoutforhomebywayofEngland，andClemensgavehimselfuptoreflectionandrestafterhiswanderings。

Then，asthedaysoftheircompanionshippassedinreview，quicklyandcharacteristicallyhesentaletterafterhiscomrade：

DEAROLDJOE，Itisactuallyallover！Iwassolow—spiritedatthestationyesterday，andthismorning，whenIwoke，Icouldn’tseemtoacceptthedismaltruththatyouwerereallygone，andthepleasanttrampingandtalkingatanend。Ah，，myboy！ithasbeensucharichholidaytome，andIfeelundersuchdeepandhonestobligationstoyouforcoming。IamputtingoutofmymindallmemoryofthetimeswhenImisbehavedtowardyouandhurtyou；Iamresolvedtoconsideritforgiven，andtostoreupandrememberonlythecharminghoursofthejourneysandthetimeswhenIwasnotunworthytobewithyouandshareacompanionshipwhichtomestandsfirstafterLivy’s。Itisjustifiabletodothis；forwhyshouldI

letmysmallinfirmitiesofdispositionliveandgrovelamongmymentalpicturesoftheeternalsublimitiesoftheAlps？

Livycan’tacceptorendurethefactthatyouaregone。Butyouare，andwecannotgetaroundit。Sotakeourlovewithyou，andbearitalsoovertheseatoHarmony，andGodblessyouboth。

MARK。

CXIX

ITALIANDAYS

TheClemenspartywandereddownintoItaly——tothelakes，Venice，Florence，Rome——loiteringthroughthegalleries，gatheringhereandtherebeautifulfurnishings——pictures，marbles，andthelike——fortheHartfordhome。

InVenicetheyboughtanoldcareenbed，amassiveregalaffairwithserpentinecolumnssurmountedbysingularlygracefulcupids，andwithothercupidssportingontheheadboard：theworkofsomeartistwhohadbeendustthreecenturiesmaybe，forthisbedhadcomeoutofanoldVenetianpalace，dismantledandabandoned。Itwasafurniturewithalongstory，andtheyearswouldaddmightilytoitsmemories。ItwouldbecomeastatelyinstitutionintheClemenshousehold。Thecupidsonthepostswereremovable，andoneofthehighestprivilegesofchildhoodwouldbetooccupythatbedandhavedownoneofthecupidstoplaywith。

Itwasnecessarytobeilltoacquirethatprivilege——notviolentlyanddangerouslyill，butinterestinglyso——illenoughtobeproppedupwithpillowsandhaveone’smealsservedonatray，withdollsandpicture—

bookshandy，andamongthemabeautifulrosewoodcupidwhohadkeptdimpledanddaintyforsomany，manyyears。

TheyspentthreeweeksinVenice：adreamlikeexperience，especiallyforthechildren，whowereonthewatermostofthetime，andbecamefastfriendswiththeirgondolier，whotaughtthemsomeItalianwords；thenaweekinFlorenceandafortnightinRome。——[Fromthenote—book：

"BAY——WhenthewaiterbroughtmybreakfastthismorningIspoketohiminItalian。

"MAMA——Whatdidyousay？

"B。——Isaid，’Polly—vofransay。’

"M。——Whatdoesitmean？

"B。——Idon’tknow。Whatdoesitmean，Susy？

"S。—Itmeans，’Pollywantsacracker。"]

Clemensdiscoveredthatintwelveyearshisattitudehadchangedsomewhatconcerningtheoldmasters。Henolongerfoundthebright，newcopiesanimprovementontheoriginals，thoughtheoriginalsstillfailedtowakehisenthusiasm。Mrs。ClemensandMissSpauldingspentlonghourswanderingdownavenuesofart，accompaniedbyhimonoccasion，thoughnotalwayswillingly。HewrotehissorrowtoTwichell：

IdowishyouwereinRometodomysight—seeingforme。RomeinterestsmeasmuchasEastHartfordcould，andnomore；thatis，theRomewhichtheaveragetouristfeelsaninterestin。Thereareotherthingsherewhichstirmeenoughtomakelifeworthliving。LivyandClaraarehavingaroyaltimeworshipingtheoldmasters，andIasgoodatimegrittingmyineffectualteethoverthem。

OncewhenSarahOrneJewettwaswiththepartyheremarkedthatiftheoldmastershadlabeledtheirfruitonewouldn’tbesolikelytomistakepearsforturnips。

"Youth，"saidMrs。Clemens，gravely，"ifyoudonotcareforthesemasterpiecesyourself，youmightatleastconsiderthefeelingsofothers"；andMissJewett，regardinghimseverely，added，inherquaintYankeefashion：

"Now，you’vebeenspoketo！"

Hefeltdulyreprimanded，buthistastedidnotmateriallyreform。Herealizedthathewasnolongerinaproperframeofmindtowriteofgeneralsight—seeing。Onemustbeeager，verdant，towritehappilythestoryoftravel。ReplyingtoaletterfromHowellsonthesubjecthesaid：

IwishIcouldgivethosesharpsatiresonEuropeanlifewhichyoumention，butofcourseamancan’twritesuccessfulsatireexcepthebeinacalm，judicialgood—humor；whereasIhatetravel，andIhatehotels，andIhatetheopera，andIhatetheoldmasters。IntruthIdon’teverseemtobeinagoodenoughhumorwithanythingtosatirizeit。No，Iwanttostandupbeforeitandcurseitandfoamatthemouth，ortakeaclubandpoundittoragsandpulp。IhavegotintwoorthreechaptersaboutWagner’soperas，andmanagedtodoitwithoutshowingtemper，butthestrainofanothersucheffortwouldburstme。

ClemensbecamehisowncourierforatimeinItaly，andwouldseemtohavemademoreofasuccessofitthanhedidagoodmanyyearsafterward，ifwemaybelievethestoryhehasleftusofhislaterattempt：

"Amashiningsuccessasacourier，"herecords，"bytheuseoffrancs。

Havelearnedhowtohandletherailwayguideintelligentlyandwithconfidence。"

Hedeclaresthathewillhavenomorecouriers；butpossiblyhecouldhaveemployedonetoadvantageonthetripoutofItaly，foritwasadesperatelyhardone，withbadconnectionsanddelayedtelegrams。When，afterthirty—sixhoursweary，continuoustraveling，theyarrivedatlastinMunichinadrizzleandfog，andweredomiciledintheirwinterquarters，atNo。1a，Karlstrasse，theyfeltthattheyhadreachedthehomeofdesolationitself，theverythroneofhumanmisery。

Andtheroomsweresosmall，theconveniencessomeager，andtheporcelainstovewasgrim，ghastly，dismal，intolerable！SoLivyandClaraSpauldingsatdownforlornandcried，andIretiredtoaprivateplacetopray。ByandbyweallretiredtoournarrowGermanbeds，andwhenLivyandIhadfinishedtalkingacrosstheroomitwasalldecidedthatweshouldresttwenty—fourhours，thenpaywhateverdamageswererequiredandstraightwayflytothesouthofFrance。

Theroomshadbeenengagedbyletter，monthsbefore，oftheirproprietress，FrauleinDahlweiner，whohadmetthematthedoorwithalanterninherhand，fullofjoyintheirarrivalandfaithinherabilitytomakethemhappy。Itwasafaiththatwasjustified。Nextmorning，whentheyallwoke，rested，theweatherhadcleared，therewerebrightfiresintherooms，theworldhadtakenonanewaspect。FrauleinDahlweiner，thepathetic，hard—workinglittlefigure，becamealmostbeautifulintheireyesinhereffortsfortheircomfort。Shearrangedlargerroomsandbetterconveniencesforthem。Theirlocationwascentralandtherewasanear—bypark。Theyhadnowishtochange。

Clemens，inhislettertoHowells，boaststhathebroughtthepartythroughfromRomehimself，andthattheyneverhadsolittletroublebefore；butinlookingoverthisletter，thirtyyearslater，hecommented，"Probablyalie。"

Hesecuredaroomsomedistanceawayforhiswork，butthencouldnotfindhisSwissnote—book。HewroteTwichellthathehadlostit，andthatafterallhemightnotbeobligedtowriteavolumeoftravels。Butthenotebookturnedupandtheworkonthenewbookproceeded。Foratimeitwentbadly。Hewrotemanychapters，onlytothrowthemaside。

Hehadthefeelingthathehadsomehowlosttheknackofdescriptivenarrative。Hehadbecome，asitseemed，toodidactic。Hethoughthisdescriptionwasinclinedtobetooliteral，hishumormanufactured。

Theseimpressionspassed，byandby；interestdeveloped，andwithitenthusiasmandconfidence。InalettertoTwichellhereportedhisprogress：

Iwasabouttowritetomypublisherandproposesomeotherbook，whentheconfoundedthing[thenote—book]turnedup，anddownwentmyheartintomyboots。Buttherewasnownoexcuse，soIwentsolidlytowork，toreupagreatpartoftheMS。writteninHeidelberg——wroteandtoreup，continuedtowriteandtearup——andatlast，rewardofpatientandnoblepersistence，mypengottheoldswingagain！SincethenI’mgladthatProvidenceknewbetterwhattodowiththeSwissnotebookthanIdid。

Furtheralonginthesamelettertherebreaksforthatrueheart—answertothatvoiceoftheAlpswhich，onceheard，isneverwhollysilent：

OSwitzerland！Thefurtheritrecedesintotheenrichinghazeoftime，themoreintolerablydeliciousthecharmofitandthecheerofitandthegloryandmajesty，andsolemnityandpathosofitgrow。Thosemountainshadasoul：theythought，theyspoke。Andwhatavoiceitwas！Andhowreal！Deepdowninmymemoryitissoundingyet。AlpcallethuntoAlp！ThatstatelyoldScripturalwordingistherightoneforGod’sAlpsandGod’socean。HowpunywewereinthatawfulPresence，andhowpainlessitwastobeso！

Howfittingandrightitseemed，andhowstinglesswasthesenseofourunspeakableinsignificance！AndLord，howpervadingwerethereposeandpeaceandblessednessthatpouredoutoftheheartoftheinvisibleGreatSpiritofthemountains！

Nowwhatisit？Therearemountainsandmountainsandmountainsinthisworld，butonlythesetakeyoubytheheartstrings。Iwonderwhatthesecretofitis。Well，timeandtimeandagainithasseemedtomethatImustdropeverythingandfleetoSwitzerlandoncemore。Itisalongingsdeep，strong，tugginglonging。Thatistheword。Wemustgoagain，Joe。

CXX

INMUNICH

ThatwinterinMunichwasnotrecalledasanunpleasantoneinafter—

years。Hisworkwentwellenough——alwaysachiefsourceofgratification。Mrs。ClemensandMissSpauldingfoundinterestinthegalleries，inquaintshops，inthemusicandpicturesquelifeofthatbeautifuloldBavariantown。ThechildrenalsolikedMunich。Itwaseasyforthemtoadoptanynewenvironmentorcustom。TheGermanChristmas，withitslavishtreeandtoysandcakes，wasanespecialdelight。TheGermanlanguagetheyseemedfairlytoabsorb。WritingtohismotherClemenssaid：

IcannotseebutthatthechildrenspeakGermanaswellastheydoEnglish。SusyoftentranslatesLivy’sorderstotheservants。IcannotworkandstudyGermanatthesametime；soIhavedroppedthelatteranddonotevenreadthelanguage，exceptinthemorningpapertogetthenews。

InMunich——aswasthecasewherevertheywereknown——thereweremanycallers。MostAmericansandmanyforeignersfeltitpropertocallonMarkTwain。Itwascomplimentary，butitwaswearyingsometimes。Mrs。

Clemens，inaletterwrittenfromVenice，wheretheyhadreceivedevenmorethanusualattention，declaredthereweremomentswhenshealmostwishedshemightneverseeavisitoragain。

OriginallytherewasagooddealaboutMunichinthenewbook，andsomeofthediscardedchaptersmighthavebeenretainedwithadvantage。Theywereruledoutinthefinalweedingasbeingtooserious，alongwiththeFrenchchapters。OnlyafewItalianmemorieswerelefttofollowtheSwitzerlandwanderings。

ThebookdoesrecordoneMunichevent，thoughtransferringittoHeilsbronn。Itistheincidentofthefindingofthelostsockinthevastbedroom。Itmayinterestthereadertocomparewhatreallyhappened，assetdowninalettertoTwichell，withthestoryaswrittenforpublication：

LastnightIawokeatthreethismorning，andafterragingtomyselffortwointerminablehoursIgaveitup。Irose，assumedacatlikestealthiness，tokeepfromwakingLivy，andproceededtodressinthepitch—dark。SlowlybutsurelyIgotongarmentaftergarment——

alldowntoonesock；Ihadoneslipperonandtheotherinmyhand。

Well，onmyhandsandkneesIcreptsoftlyaround，pawingandfeelingandscoopingalongthecarpet，andamongchair—legs，forthatmissingsock，Ikeptthatup，andstillkeptitup，andkeptitup。AtfirstIonlysaidtomyself，"Blamethatsock，"butthatsoonceasedtoanswer。Myexpletivesgrewsteadilystrongerandstronger，andatlast，whenIfoundIwaslost，Ihadtositflatdownonthefloorandtakeholdofsomethingtokeepfromliftingtheroofoffwiththeprofaneexplosionthatwastryingtogetoutofme。Icouldseethedimblurofthewindow，butofcourseitwasinthewrongplaceandcouldgivemenoinformationastowhereI

was。ButIhadonecomfort——IhadnotwakedLivy；IbelievedI

couldfindthatsockinsilenceifthenightlastedlongenough。

SoIstartedagainandsoftlypawedallovertheplace，andsureenough，attheendofhalfanhourIlaidmyhandonthemissingarticle。Irosejoyfullyupandbuttedthewashbowlandpitcheroffthestand，andsimplyraised————sotospeak。Livyscreamed，thensaid，"Whoisit？Whatisthematter？"Isaid，"Thereain’tanythingthematter。I’mhuntingformysock。"Shesaid，"Areyouhuntingforitwithaclub？"

Iwentintheparlorandlitthelamp，andgraduallythefurysubsidedandtheridiculousfeaturesofthethingbegantosuggestthemselves。SoIlayonthesofawithnote—bookandpencil，andtransferredtheadventuretoourbigroominthehotelatHeilsbronn，andgotitonpaperagooddealtomysatisfaction。

HewrotewithfrequencytoHowells，andsenthimsomethingforthemagazinenowandthen：the"GambettaDuel"burlesque，whichwouldmakeachapterinthebooklater，andthestoryof"TheGreatRevolutioninPitcairn。"——[IncludedinTheStolenWhiteElephantvolume。The"Pitcairn"and"Elephant"taleswereoriginallychaptersin’ATrampAbroad’；alsotheunpleasant"Coffin—box"yarn，whichHowellsrejectedfortheAtlanticandgenerallycondemned，thoughforatimeitremainedafavoritewithitsauthor。]

Howells’snovel，’TheLadyoftheAroostook’，wasthenrunningthroughthe’Atlantic’，andinoneofhislettersClemensexpressesthegeneraldeepsatisfactionofhishouseholdinthattale：

Ifyourliteraturehasnotstruckperfectionnowwearenotabletoseewhatislacking。Itisallsuchtruth——truthtothelife；everywhereyourpenfallsitleavesaphotograph……Possiblyyouwillnotbeafullyacceptedclassicuntilyouhavebeendeadonehundredyears——

itisthefateoftheShakespearesofallgenuineprofessions——butthenyourbookswillbeascommonasBibles，Ibelieve。InthatdayIshallbeintheencyclopediastoo，thus："MarkTwain，historyandoccupationunknown；buthewaspersonallyacquaintedwithHowells。"

Thoughinhumorousform，thiswasasinceretribute。ClemensalwaysregardedwithaweWilliamDeanHowells’sabilitytodissectandphotographwithsuchdelicacytheminutiaeofhumannature；justasHowellsalwaysstoodinaweofMarkTwain’sabilitytolight，withasingleflashingsentence，thewholehumanhorizon。

CXXI

PARIS，ENGLAND，ANDHOMEWARDBOUND

TheydecidedtospendthespringmonthsinParis，sotheygaveuptheirpleasantquarterswithFrauleinDahlweiner，andjourneyedacrossEurope，arrivingattheFrenchcapitalFebruary28，1879。Heretheymetanotherdiscouragingprospect，fortheweatherwascoldanddamp，thecabmenseemedbrutallyill—mannered，theirfirsthotelwaschilly，dingy，uninviting。Clemens，inhisnote—book，setdownhisimpressionsoftheirrooms。Aparagraphwillserve：

Tensquatty，uglyarm—chairs，upholsteredintheugliestandcoarsestconceivablescarletplush；twohideoussofasofthesame——

uncountedarmlesschairsditto。Fiveornamentalchairs，seatscoveredwithacoarserag，embroideredinflatexpansewithaconfusionofleavessuchasnotreeeverbore，sixorsevenadirtywhiteandtherestafadedred。Howthosehideouschairsdoswearatthehideoussofanearthem！ThisistheveryhatefulestroomI

haveseeninEurope。

Oh，howcoldandrawandunwarmableitis！

Itwasbetterthanthatwhenthesuncameout，andtheyfoundhappierquarterspresentlyattheHotelNormandy，ruedel’Echelle。

But，alas，thesundidnotcomeoutoftenenough。ItwasoneofthoseFrenchspringsandsummerswhenitrainsnearlyeveryday，andisdistressinglyfoggyandchillbetweentimes。ClemensreceivedabadimpressionofFranceandtheFrenchduringthatParisian—sojourn，fromwhichheneverentirelyrecovered。Inhisnote—bookhewrote："Francehasneitherwinter，norsummer，normorals。Apartfromthesedrawbacksitisafinecountry。"

Theweathermaynothavebeenentirelyaccountableforhisprejudice，butfromwhatevercauseMarkTwain，tothedayofhisdeath，hadnogreatlovefortheFrenchasanation。Conversely，theFrenchasanationdidnotcaregreatlyforMarkTwain。ThereweremanyindividualFrenchmenthatMarkTwainadmired，asthereweremanyFrenchmenwhoadmiredtheworkandpersonalityofMarkTwain；butonneithersidewastherethewarm，fond，generalaffectionwhichelsewherethroughoutEuropeheinvitedandreturned。

Hisbookwasnotyetfinished。InParisheworkedonitdaily，butwithoutenthusiasm。Thecitywastoonoisy，theweathertoodismal。

Hisnote—booksays：

May7th。Iwishthisterriblewinterwouldcometoanend。Havehadrainalmostwithoutintermissionfortwomonthsandoneweek。

May28th。Thisisoneofthecoldestdaysofthismostdamnableandinterminablewinter。

Itwasnotallgloomanddiscomfort。TherewascongenialcompanyinParis，anddinner—parties，andaworldofcallers。Aldrichthescintillating——[OfAldrichClemensusedtosay："WhenAldrichspeaksitseemstomeheisthebrightfaceofthemoon，andIfeelliketheotherside。"Aldrich，unlikeClemens，wasnotgiventoswearing。TheParisiannote—bookhasthismemorandum："Aldrichgiveshisseatinthehorse—cartoacrutchedcripple，anddiscoversthatwhathetookforacrutchisonlyalengthofwalnutbeadingandthemannotlame；whereuponAldrichusestheonlyprofanitythateverescapedhislips：’Damnadam’dmanwhowouldcarryadam’dpieceofbeadingunderhisdam’darm！’"]——wasthere，alsoGedneyBunce，ofHartford，FrankMilletandhiswife，HjalinarHjorthBoyesenandhiswife，andaMr。andMrs。Chamberlain，artistpeoplewhomtheClemenseshadmetpleasantlyinItaly。Turgenieff，asinLondon，cametocall；alsoBaronTauchnitz，thatnoblybornphilanthropistofGermanpublishers，whodevotedhislife，oftenathispersonalcost，tomakingtheliteratureofothernationsfamiliartohisown。Tauchnitzhadearlypublishedthe’Innocents’，followingitwithotherMarkTwainvolumesastheyappeared，payingalways，ofhisownwillandaccord，allthathecouldaffordtopayforthisprivilege；whichwasnotreallyaprivilege，forthelawdidnotrequirehimtopayatall。

HetraveleddowntoParisnowtoseetheauthor，andtopayhisrespectstohim。"Amightyniceoldgentleman，"Clemensfoundhim。RichardWhiteingwasinParisthatwinter，andtherewerealwaysplentyofyoungAmericanpainterswhomitwasgoodtoknow。

TheyhadwhattheycalledtheStomachClub，ajollyorganization，whosepurposewasindicatedbyitsname。MarkTwainoccasionallyattendeditssessions，andononememorableevening，whenEdwinA。Abbeywasthere，speechesweremadewhichneverappearedinanyprintedproceedings。MarkTwain’saddressthatnighthasobtainedawidecelebrityamongtheclubsoftheworld，thoughnolineofit，orevenitstitlehaseverfounditswayintopublishedliterature。

ClemenshadabettertimeinParisthantherestofhisparty。Hecouldgoandcome，andminglewiththesociabilitieswhentheabnormalweatherkepttheothershousedin。Hedidagooddealofsight—seeingofhisownkind，andoncewentupinacaptiveballoon。TheywereallstudyingFrench，moreorless，andtheyreadhistoriesandotherbooksrelatingtoFrance。ClemensrenewedhisoldinterestinJoanofArc，andforthefirsttimeappearstohaveconceivedthenotionofwritingthestoryofthatlovelycharacter。

TheReignofTerrorinterestedhim。HerereadCarlyle’sRevolution，abookwhichhewasneverlongwithoutreading，andtheyallread’ATaleofTwoCities’。Whentheweatherpermittedtheyvisitedthescenesofthatgrimperiod。

Inhisnote—bookhecomments：

"TheReignofTerrorshowsthat，withoutdistinctionorrank，thepeopleweresavages。Marquises，dukes，lawyers，blacksmiths，theyeachfigureindueproportiontotheircrafts。"

Andagain：

"For1，000yearsthissavagenationindulgeditselfinmassacre；

everynowandthenabigmassacreoralittleone。ThespiritispeculiartoFrance——ImeaninChristendom——nootherstatehashadit。InthisFrancehasalwayswalkedabreast，keptherendupwithherbrethren，theTurksandtheBurmese。Theirchieftraits——loveofgloryandmassacre。"

Yetitwashissenseoffairnessthatmadehimwrite，asasortofquittance：

"YouperceiveIgeneralizewithintrepidityfromsingleinstances。

Itisthetourists’custom。WhenIseeamanjumpfromtheVendomeColumnIsay，’TheyliketodothatinParis。’"

Followingthisimpliedatonement，herecordsafewconclusions，drawndoubtlessfromParisianreadingandobservation：

"Childishraceandgreat。"

"I’mforcremation。"

"Idisfavorcapitalpunishment。"

"SamsonwasaJew，thereforenotafool。TheJewshavethebestaveragebrainofanypeopleintheworld。TheJewsaretheonlyraceintheworldwhoworkwhollywiththeirbrains，andneverwiththeirhands。TherearenoJewbeggars，noJewtramps，noJewditchers，hod—carriers，day—laborers，orfollowersoftoilsomemechanicaltrade。

"Theyarepeculiarlyandconspicuouslytheworld’sintellectualaristocracy。"

"Communismisidiocy。Theywanttodivideuptheproperty。Supposetheydidit。Itrequiresbrainstokeepmoneyaswellastomakeit。Inapreciouslittlewhilethemoneywouldbebackintheformerowner’shandsandthecommunistwouldbepooragain。Thedivisionwouldhavetoberemadeeverythreeyearsoritwoulddothecommunistnogood。"

AcuriousthinghappenedonedayinParis。Boyesen；ingreatexcitement，cametotheNormandyandwasshowntotheClemensapartments。Hewaspaleandcouldhardlyspeak，forhisemotion。Heaskedimmediatelyif。

hiswifehadcometotheirrooms。Onlearningthatshehadnot，hedeclaredthatshewaslostorhadmetwithanaccident。Shehadbeengoneseveralhours，hesaid，andhadsentnoword，athingwhichshehadneverdonebefore。HebesoughtClemenstoaidhiminhissearchforher，todosomethingtohelphimfindher。Clemens，withoutshowingtheleastemotionorspecialconcentrationofinterest，saidquietly：

"Iwill。"

"Wherewillyougofirst，"Boyesendemanded。

StillinthesameevenvoiceClemenssaid：

"Totheelevator。"

Hepassedoutoftheroom，withBoyesenbehindhim，intothehall。Theelevatorwasjustcomingup，andastheyreachedit，itstoppedattheirlanding，andMrs。Boyesensteppedout。Shehadbeendelayedbyabreakdownandablockade。Clemenssaidafterwardthathehadapositiveconvictionthatshewouldbeontheelevatorwhentheyreachedit。Itwasoneofthosecuriouspsychicevidenceswhichwefindallalongduringhislife；or，iftheskepticsprefertocallthemcoincidences，theyareprivilegedtodoso。

Paris，June1，1879。Stillthisvindictivewintercontinues。Hadaraw，coldrainto—day。To—nightwesitaroundarousingwoodfire。

Theystooditforanothermonth，andthenonthe10thofJuly，whenitwasstillchillyanddisagreeable，theygaveitupandleftforBrussels，whichhecalls"adirty，beautiful(architecturally)，interestingtown。"

TwodaysinBrussels，thentoAntwerp，wheretheydinedontheTrentonwithAdmiralRoan，thentoRotterdam，Dresden，Amsterdam，andLondon，arrivingtherethe29thofJuly，whichwasrainyandcold，inkeepingwithallEuropethatyear。

Hadtokeeparousingbigcannel—coalfireblazinginthegrateallday。Aremarkablesummer，truly！

Londonmeantathrongofdinners，asalways：brilliant，notableaffairs，toofarawaytorecall。AletterwrittenbyMrs。Clemensatthetimepreservesonecharming，freshbitofthatdepartedbloom。

Clara[Spaulding]wentintodinnerwithMr。HenryJames；sheenjoyedhimverymuch。Ihadalittlechatwithhimbeforedinner，andhewasexceedinglypleasantandeasytotalkwith。Ihadexpectedjustthereverse，thinkingonewouldfeellookedoverbyhimandcriticized。

Mr。Whistler，theartist，wasatthedinner，buthedidnotattractme。Thentherewasalady，overeightyyearsold，aMrs。Stuart，whowasWashingtonIrving’slove，andsheissaidtohavebeenhisonlylove，andbecauseofherhewentunmarriedtohisgrave。——

[Mrs。Clemenswasmisinformed。Irving’sonly"love"wasaMissHoffman。]——ShewasalsoanintimatefriendofMadameBonaparte。

YouwouldjudgeMrs。Stuarttobeaboutfifty，andshewasthelifeofthedrawing—roomafterdinner，whiletheladieswerealone，beforethegentlemencameup。Itwaslovelytoseesuchasweetoldage；everyonewassofondofher，everyonedeferredtoher，yeteveryonewasjokingher，makingfunofher，butshewasalwaysequaltotheoccasion，givingbackasbrightrepliesaspossible；

youhadnottheleastsensethatshewasaged。ShequotedFrenchinherstorieswithperfecteaseandfluency，andhadallthetimesuchakindly，lovelyway。Whensheenteredtheroom，beforedinner，Mr。

James，whowasthentalkingwithme，shookhandswithherandsaid，"Goodevening，youwonderfullady。"Aftershehadpassed……

hesaid，"SheistheyoungestpersoninLondon。Shehastheyoungestfeelingsandtheyoungestinterests……Sheisalwaysinterested。"

Itwasaperfectdelighttohearherandseeher。

FormorethantwoyearstheyhadhadaninvitationfromReginaldCholmondeleytopayhimanothervisit。

SotheywentforaweektoCondover，wheremanyfriendsweregathered，includingMillais，thepainter，andhiswife(whohadbeenthewifeofRuskin)，numerousrelatives，andotherdelightfulcompany。Itwasoneofthehappiestchaptersoftheirforeignsojourn。——[MoncureD。Conway，whowasinLondonatthetime，recalls，inhisAutobiography，avisitwhichhemadewithMr。andMrs。ClemenstoStratford—on—Avon。"Mrs。ClemenswasanardentShakespearian，andMarkTwaindeterminedtogiveherasurprise。HetoldherthatweweregoingonajourneytoEpworth，andpersuadedmetoconnivewiththejokebywritingtoCharlesFlowernottomeetushimself，butsendhiscarriage。Onarrivalatthestationwedirectedthedrivertotakeusstraighttothechurch。Whenweentered，andMrs。ClemensreadonShakespeare’sgrave，’Goodfriend，forJesus’

sake，forbear，’shestartedback，exclaiming，’whereamI？’Markreceivedherreproacheswithanaffluenceofguilt，butneverdidladyenjoyavisitmorethanthattoAvonbank。Mrs。CharlesFlower(neeMartineau)tookMrs。Clemenstoherheart，andcontrivedthateverysocialorotherattractionofthatregionshouldsurroundher。"]

>Fromthenote—book：

Sunday，August17，’79。Rawandcold，andadrenchingrain。WenttohearMr。Spurgeon。Housethree—quartersfull—saythreethousandpeople。Firsthour，lackingoneminute，takenupwithtwoprayers，twouglyhymns，andScripture—reading。Sermonthree—quartersofanhourlong。Afluenttalker，good，sonorousvoice。Topictreatedintheunpleasant，oldfashion：Manamightybadchild，Godworkingathiminfortywaysandhavingaworldoftroublewithhim。

Awooden—facedcongregation；justthesorttoseenoincongruityinthemajestyofHeavenstoopingtopleadandsentimentalizeoversuch，andseeintheirsalvationanimportantmatter。

Tuesday，August19th。WentupWindermereLakeinthesteamer。

TalkedwiththegreatDarwin。

TheyhadplannedtovisitDr。BrowninScotland。Mrs。Clemens，inparticular，longedtogo，forhishealthhadnotbeenofthebest，andshefeltthattheywouldneverhaveachancetoseehimagain。Clemensinafteryearsblamedhimselfharshlyfornotmakingthetrip，declaringthattheirwholereasonfornotgoingwasanirritablereluctanceonhisparttotakethetroublesomejourneyandaperversityofspiritforwhichtherewasnorealexcuse。Thereisdocumentaryevidenceagainstthisharshconclusion。Theywere，infact，delayedhereandtherebymisconnectionsandthecontinuedterrificweather，barelyreachingLiverpoolintimefortheirsailingdate，August23d。Unquestionablyhewaswearyofrailwaytravel，farhealwaysdetestedit。Timewouldmagnifyhisrememberedreluctance，until，intheend，hewouldloadhisconsciencewiththeentireburdenofblame。

TheirshipwastheGallia，andonenight，whentheywerenearingtheoppositesideoftheAtlantic，MarkTwain，standingondeck，sawforthethirdtimeinhisexperienceamagnificentlunarrainbow：acompletearch，thecolorspartofthetimeverybrilliant，butlittledifferentfromadayrainbow。Itisnotgiventomanypersonsinthisworldtoseeevenoneofthesephenomena。Aftereachpreviousvisiontherehadcometohimaperiodofgood—fortune。Perhapsthisalsobodedwellforhim。

CXXII

ANINTERLUDE

TheGalliareachedNewYorkSeptember3，1879。Areportofhisarrival，intheNewYorkSun，statedthatMarkTwainhadchangedinhisabsence；

thatonlyhisdrawlseemednatural。

Hishat，ashestoodonthedeckoftheincomingCunarder，Gallia，wasofthepatternthatEnglishofficerswearinIndia，andhissuitofclotheswassuchasamerchantmightwearinhisstore。HelookedolderthanwhenhewenttoGermany，andhishairhasturnedquitegray。

Itwasalatehourwhentheywerefinallyuptothedock，andClemens，anxioustogetthroughtheCustomHouse，urgedtheinspectortoaccepthiscarefullypreparedlistofdutiablearticles，withoutopeningthebaggage。Buttheofficialwasdubious。Clemensarguedeloquently，andahigherauthoritywasconsulted。AgainClemensstatedhiscaseandpresentedhisarguments。Astillhigherchiefofinspectionwassummoned，evidentlyfromhisbed。Helistenedsleepilytothepreamble，thensuddenlysaid："Oh，chalkhisbaggage，ofcourse！Don’tyouknowit’sMarkTwainandthathe’lltalkallnight？"

Theywentdirectlytothefarm，forwhosehighsunlitlovelinesstheyhadbeenlongingthroughalltheirdaysofabsence。Mrs。Clemens，inherletters，hadneverfailedtodwellonherhungerforthatfairhilltop。

>Fromhisaccustomedstudy—tableClemenswrotetoTwichell：

"Youhaverunaboutagooddeal，Joe，butyouhaveneverseenanyplacethatwassodivineasthefarm。Whydon’tyoucomehereandtakeaforetasteofHeaven？"Clemensdeclaredhewouldroamnomoreforever，andsettleddowntothehappyfarmroutine。Hetookuphiswork，whichhadnotgonewellinParis，andfoundhisinterestinitrenewed。InthelettertoTwichellhesaid：

IamrevisingmyMS。Ididnotexpecttolikeit，butIdo。Ihavebeenknockingoutearlychaptersformorethanayearnow，notbecausetheyhadnotmerit，butmerelybecausetheyhinderedtheflowofthenarrative；itwasadredgingprocess。Daybeforeyesterdaymyshovelfetchedupthreemorechaptersandlaidthem，reeking，onthefesteringshore—pileoftheirpredecessors，andnowIthinktheyarnswimsrightalong，withouthitchorhalt。I

believeitwillbeareadablebookoftravels。Icannotseethatitlacksanythingbutinformation。

Mrs。Clemenswasnolesswearyoftravelthanherhusband。Yetshehadenjoyedtheirroaming，andhergainfromithadbeengreaterthanhis。

Herknowledgeofartandliterature，andofthepersonalgeographyofnations，hadvastlyincreased；herphilosophyoflifehadgrownbeyondallcounting。

Shehadlostsomething，too；shehadoutstrippedhertraditions。Oneday，whensheandhersisterhadwalkedacrossthefields，andhadstoppedtorestinalittlegrovebyaprettypond，sheconfessed，timidlyenoughandnotwithoutsorrow，howshehaddriftedawayfromherorthodoxviews。Shehadceasedtobelieve，shesaid，intheorthodoxBibleGod，whoexercisedapersonalsupervisionovereveryhumansoul。

Thehordesofpeopleshehadseeninmanylands，thephilosophiesshehadlistenedtofromherhusbandandthosewiseonesabouthim，thelifeawayfromtherestrictedroundofhome，allhadcontributedtothischange。

HerGodhadbecomealargerGod；thegreatermindwhichexertsitscareoftheindividualthroughimmutablelawsoftimeandchangeandenvironment——theSupremeGoodwhichcomprehendstheindividualflower，dumbcreature，orhumanbeingonlyasaunitinthelargerschemeoflifeandlove。Hersisterwasnotshockedorgrieved；shetoohadgrownwiththeyears，andthoughperhapslesspositivelydirected，hadbyapathofherownreachedawiderprospectofconclusions。Itwasasweetdaythereinthelittlegrovebythewater，andwouldlingerinthememoryofbothsolongaslifelasted。Certainlyitwasthelargerfaith；thoughthemomentmustalwayscomewhenthenarrower，nearer，morehumanlyprotectingarmoforthodoxylendsclosercomfort。Longafterward，intheyearsthatfollowedthesorrowofheavybereavement，Clemensoncesaidtohiswife，"Livy，ifitcomfortsyoutoleanontheChristianfaithdoso，"andsheanswered，"Ican’t，Youth。Ihaven’tany。"

Andthethoughtthathehaddestroyedherillusion，withoutaffordingacompensatingsolace，wasonethatwouldcomebacktohim，nowandthen，allhisdays。

CXXIII

THEGRANTSPEECHOF1879

Ifthelunarrainbowhadanyfortuitoussignificance，perhapswemayfinditinthetwospeecheswhichMarkTwainmadeinNovemberandDecemberofthatyear。ThefirstofthesewasdeliveredatChicago，ontheoccasionofthereceptionofGeneralGrantbytheArmyoftheTennessee，ontheeveningofNovember73，1879。Granthadjustreturnedfromhissplendidtouroftheworld。HisprogressfromSanFranciscoeastwardhadbeensuchanovationasisonlyaccordedtosovereignty。Clemensreceivedaninvitationtothereunion，but，dreadingthelongrailwayjourney，wasatfirstmovedtodecline。Hepreparedaletterinwhichhemade"business"

hisexcuse，andexpressedhisregretthathewouldnotbepresenttoseeandheartheveteransoftheArmyoftheTennesseeatthemomentwhentheiroldcommanderenteredtheroomandroseinhisplacetospeak。

"Besides，"hesaid，"IwantedtoseetheGeneralagainanywayandrenewtheacquaintance。Hewouldrememberme，becauseIwasthepersonwhodidnotaskhimforanoffice。"

Hedidnotsendtheletter。Reconsidering，itseemedtohimthattherewassomethingstrikinglypicturesqueintheideaofaConfederatesoldierwhohadbeenchasedforafortnightintherainthroughRallsandMonroecounties，Missouri，nowbeinginvitedtocomeandgivewelcomehometohisoldimaginarypursuer。Itwasinthenatureofanimperativecommand，whichhecouldnotrefusetoobey。

Heacceptedandagreedtospeak。Theyhadaskedhimtorespondtothetoastof"TheLadies，"butforhimthesubjectwaswornout。Hehadalreadyrespondedtothattoastatleasttwice。Hetelegraphedthattherewasoneclassofthecommunitythathadalwaysbeenoverlookeduponsuchoccasions，andthatiftheywouldallowhimtodosohewouldtakethatclassforatoast：thebabies。Necessarilytheyagreed，andhepreparedhimselfaccordingly。

HearrivedinChicagointimefortheprodigiousprocessionofwelcome。

Grantwastowitnessthemarchfromagrandreviewingstand，whichhadbeenbuiltoutfromthesecondstoryofthePalmerHouse。ClemenshadnotseentheGeneralsincethe"embarrassing"introductioninWashington，twelveyearsbefore。Theirmeetingwascharacteristicenough。CarterHarrison，MayorofChicago，arrivingwithGrant，steppedovertoClemens，andaskedhimifhewouldn’tliketobepresented。Grantalsocameforward，andamomentlaterHarrisonwassaying：

"General，letmepresentMr。Clemens，amanalmostasgreatasyourself。"

Theyshookhands；therewasapauseofamoment，thenGrantsaid，lookingathimgravely：

"Mr。Clemens，Iamnotembarrassed，areyou？"

Soherememberedthatfirst，long—agomeeting。Itwasaconspicuousperformance。Thecrowdcouldnothearthewords，buttheysawthegreetingandthelaugh，andcheeredbothmen。

Followingtheprocession，therewerecertainimposingceremoniesofwelcomeatHaverly’sTheaterwherelong，laudatoryeloquencewaspouredoutuponthereturninghero，whosatunmovedwhilethestormofmusicandcheersandoratorysweptabouthim。Clemens，writingofitthateveningtoMrs。Clemens，said：

Ineversatelbowtoelbowwithsomanyhistoricnamesbefore。

Grant，Sherman，Sheridan，Schofield，Pope，Logan，andsoon。

WhatanironmanGrantis！Hesatfacingthehouse，withhisrightlegcrossedoverhisleft，hisrightbootsoletiltedupatanangle，andhislefthandandarmreposingonthearmofhischair。

Younotethatposition？Well，whenglowingreferencesweremadetoothergrandeesonthestage，thosegrandeesalwaysshowedatrifleofnervousconsciousness，andasthesereferencescamefrequentlythenervouschangesofpositionandattitudewerealsofrequent。

ButGrant！Hewasunderatremendousandceaselessbombardmentofpraiseandcongratulation；butastrueasI’msittingherehenevermovedamuscleofhisbodyforasingleinstantduringthirtyminutes！Youcouldhaveplayedhimonastrangerforaneffigy。

Perhapsheneverwouldhavemoved，butatlastaspeakermadesuchaparticularlyrippingandblood—stirringremarkabouthimthattheaudienceroseandroaredandyelledandstampedandclappedanentireminute——Grantsittingassereneasever—whenGeneralShermansteppeduptohim，laidhishandaffectionatelyonhisshoulder，bentrespectfullydown，andwhisperedinhisear。ThenGrantgotupandbowed，andthestormofapplauseswelledintoahurricane。

Butitwasthenexteveningthatthecelebrationrosetoaclimax。ThiswasatthegrandbanquetatthePalmerHouse，wheresixhundredguestssatdowntodinnerandGranthimselfspoke，andLoganandHurlbut，andVilasandWoodfordandPope，fifteeninall，includingRobertG。

IngersollandMarkTwain。Chicagohasneverknownagreatereventthanthatdinner，fortherehasneverbeenatimesincewhenthosegreatsoldiersandcitizenscouldhavebeengatheredthere。

ToHowellsClemenswrote：

Imaginewhatitwasliketoseeabullet—shreddedoldbattle—flagreverentlyunfoldedtothegazeofathousandmiddle—agedsoldiers，mostofwhomhadn’tseenitsincetheysawitadvancingovervictoriousfieldswhentheywereintheirprime。AndimaginewhatitwaslikewhenGrant，theirfirstcommander，steppedintoviewwhiletheywerestillgoingmadovertheflag，andthenrightinthemidstofitallsomebodystruckup"WhenweweremarchingthroughGeorgia。"Well，youshouldhaveheardthethousandvoicesliftthatchorusandseenthetearsstreamdown。IfIliveahundredyearsI

sha’n’teverforgetthesethings，norbeabletotalkaboutthem。I

sha’n’teverforgetthatIsawPhilSheridan，withmartialcloakandplumedchapeau，ridinghisbigblackhorseinthemidstofhisowncannon；byalloddsthesuperbestfigureofasoldier。Ieverlookedupon！

Grandtimes，myboy，grandtimes！

MarkTwaindeclaredafterwardthathelistenedtofourspeechesthatnightwhichhewouldrememberaslongashelived。OneofthemwasbyEmoryStorrs，anotherbyGeneralVilas，anotherbyLogan，andthelastandgreatestbyRobertIngersoll，whoseeloquencesweptthehouselikeaflame。TheHowellslettercontinues：

IdoubtifAmericahaseverseenanythingquiteequaltoit；IamwellsatisfiedIshallnotlivetoseeitsequalagain。Howpalethosespeechesareinprint，buthowradiant，howfullofcolor，howblindingtheywereinthedelivery！BobIngersoll’smusicwillsingthroughmymemoryalwaysasthedivinestthateverenchantedmyears。AndIshallalwaysseehim，ashestoodthatnightonadinner—table，undertheflashoflightsandbanners，inthemidstofsevenhundredfranticshouters，themostbeautifulhumancreaturethateverlived。"Theyfought，thatamothermightownherchild。"

Thewordslooklikeanyotherprint，but，Lordblessme！heborrowedtheveryaccentoftheangelofmercytosaythemin，andyoushouldhaveseenthatvasthouserisetoitsfeet；andyoushouldhaveheardthehurricanethatfollowed。That’stheonlytest！Peoplemayshout，claptheirhands，stamp，wavetheirnapkins，butnonebutthemastercanmakethemgetupontheirfeet。

Clemens’sownspeechcamelast。Hehadbeenplacedattheendtoholdthehouse。Hewasprecededbyadullspeaker，andhisheartsank，foritwastwoo’clockandthedinerswerewearyandsleepy，andthedrearyspeechhadmadethemunresponsive。

Theygavehimaroundofapplausewhenhesteppedupuponthetableinfrontofhim——atributetohisname。Thenhebegantheopeningwordsofthatmemorable，delightfulfancy。

"Wehaven’tallhadthegood—fortunetobeladies；wehaven’tallbeengenerals，orpoets，orstatesmen；butwhenthetoastworksdowntothebabies——westandoncommonground——"

Thetiredaudiencehadlistenedinrespectfulsilencethroughthefirsthalfofthesentence。Hemadeoneofhiseffectivepausesontheword"babies，"andwhenheadded，inthatslow，richmeasureofhis，"westandoncommonground，"theyletgoastormofapplause。Therewasnowearinessandinattentionafterthat。Attheendofeachsentence，hehadtostoptoletthetornadoroaritselfoutandsweepby。Whenhereachedthebeginningofthefinalparagraph，"Amongthethreeorfourmillioncradlesnowrockinginthelandaresomewhichthisnationwouldpreserveforagesassacredthingsifwecouldknowwhichonestheyare，"

thevastaudiencewaitedbreathlessforhisconclusion。Stepbystepheledtowardsomeunseenclimax——somesurprise，ofcourse，forthatwouldbehisway。Thensteadily，andalmostwithoutemphasis，hedeliveredtheopeningofhisfinalsentence：

"Andnowinhiscradle，somewhereundertheflag，thefutureillustriouscommander—in—chiefoftheAmericanarmiesissolittleburdenedwithhisapproachinggrandeursandresponsibilitiesastobegivinghiswholestrategicmind，atthismoment，totryingtofindoutsomewaytogethisownbigtoeintohismouth，anachievementwhich(meaningnodisrespect)

theillustriousguestofthiseveningalsoturnedhisattentiontosomefifty—sixyearsago。"

Hepaused，andthevastcrowdhadachilloffear。Afterall，heseemedlikelytooverdoittospoileverythingwithacheapjokeattheend。

NooneeverknewbetterthanMarkTwainthevalueofapause。Hewaitednowlongenoughtoletthesilencebecomeabsolute，untilthetensionwaspainful，thenwheelingtoGranthimselfhesaid，withallthedramaticpowerofwhichhewasmaster：

"Andifthechildisbutthefatheroftheman，therearemightyfewwhowilldoubtthathesucceeded！"

Thehousecamedownwithacrash。Thelinkingoftheirhero’sgreatmilitarytriumphswiththatearliestofallconquestsseemedtothemsograndafigurethattheywentmadwiththejoyofit。EvenGrant’sironserenitybroke；herockedandlaughedwhilethetearsstreameddownhischeeks。

Theysweptaroundthespeakerwiththeircongratulations，intheireffortstoseizehishand。Hewasborneupanddownthegreatdining—

hall。Granthimselfpresseduptomakeacknowledgments。

"Ittoremealltopieces，"hesaid；andShermanexclaimed，"Lordblessyou，myboy！Idon’tknowhowyoudoit！"

Thelittlespeechhasbeenin"coldtype"somanyyearssincethenthatthereaderofitto—daymayfindithardtounderstandtheflameofresponseitkindledsolongago。Butthatwasanotherday——andanothernation——andMarkTwain，likeRobertIngersoll，knewalwayshisperiodandhispeople。

CXXIV

ANOTHER"ATLANTIC"SPEECH

TheDecembergood—fortunewasanopportunityClemenshadtoredeemhimselfwiththeAtlanticcontingent，atabreakfastgiventoDr。Holmes。

HowellshadwrittenconcerningitasearlyasOctober，andthefirstimpulsehadbeentodecline。Itwouldbesomethingofanordeal；forthoughtwoyearshadpassedsincethefatalWhittierdinner，Clemenshadnotbeeninthatcompanysince，andthelapseoftimedidnotsignify。

BothHowellsandWarnerurgedhimtoaccept，andheagreedtodosoonconditionthathebeallowedtospeak。

IfanybodytalksthereIshallclaimtherighttosayawordmyself，andbeheardamongtheveryearliest，elseitwouldbeconfoundedlyawkwardforme——andfortherest，too。ButyoumayreadwhatIsaybeforehand，andstrikeoutwhateveryouchoose。

Howellsadvisedagainstanysortofexplanation。Clemensacceptedthisaswisecounsel，andpreparedanaddressrelevantonlytotheguestofhonor。

Itwasanoblegathering。MostoftheguestsoftheWhittierdinnerwerepresent，andthistimetherewereladies。Emerson，Longfellow，andWhittierwerethere，HarrietBeecherStoweandJuliaWardHowe；alsotheknightlyColonelWaring，andStedman，andParkman，andgrandoldJohnBigelow，oldeventhen。——[Hediedin1911inhis94thyear。]

Howellswasconservativeinhisintroductionthistime。Itwasbettertastetobeso。Hesaidsimply：

"WewillnowlistentoafewwordsoftruthandsobernessfromMarkTwain。"

Clemensissaidtohaverisendiffidently，butthatwashisnaturalmanner。Itprobablydidnotindicateanythingoftheinnertumulthereallyfelt。