The Innocents Abroad

第30章

NotfarfromherewasanichewheretheyusedtopreserveapieceoftheTrueCross,butitisgone,now。Thispieceofthecrosswasdiscoveredinthesixteenthcentury。TheLatinpriestssayitwasstolenaway,longago,bypriestsofanothersect。Thatseemslikeahardstatementtomake,butweknowverywellthatitwasstolen,becausewehaveseenitourselvesinseveralofthecathedralsofItalyandFrance。

ButtherelicthattouchedusmostwastheplainoldswordofthatstoutCrusader,GodfreyofBulloigne——KingGodfreyofJerusalem。NobladeinChristendomwieldssuchenchantmentasthis——nobladeofallthatrustintheancestralhallsofEuropeisabletoinvokesuchvisionsofromanceinthebrainofhimwholooksuponit——nonethatcanprateofsuchchivalricdeedsortellsuchbravetalesofthewarriordaysofold。ItstirswithinamaneverymemoryoftheHolyWarsthathasbeensleepinginhisbrainforyears,andpeopleshisthoughtswithmail—cladimages,withmarchingarmies,withbattlesandwithsieges。ItspeakstohimofBaldwin,andTancred,theprincelySaladin,andgreatRichardoftheLionHeart。Itwaswithjustsuchbladesasthesethatthesesplendidheroesofromanceusedtosegregateaman,sotospeak,andleavethehalfofhimtofallonewayandtheotherhalftheother。ThisveryswordhasclovenhundredsofSaracenKnightsfromcrowntochininthoseoldtimeswhenGodfreywieldedit。Itwasenchanted,then,byageniusthatwasunderthecommandofKingSolomon。Whendangerapproacheditsmaster\'stentitalwaysstrucktheshieldandclangedoutafiercealarmuponthestartledearofnight。Intimesofdonbt,orinfogordarkness,ifitweredrawnfromitssheathitwonldpointinstantlytowardthefoe,andthusrevealtheway——anditwouldalsoattempttostartafterthemofitsownaccord。AChristiancouldnotbesodisguisedthatitwouldnotknowhimandrefusetohurthim——noraMoslemsodisguisedthatitwouldnotleapfromitsscabbardandtakehislife。ThesestatementsareallwellauthenticatedinmanylegendsthatareamongthemosttrustworthylegendsthegoodoldCatholicmonkspreserve。IcanneverforgetoldGodfrey\'ssword,now。ItrieditonaMoslem,andclovehimintwainlikeadoughnut。ThespiritofGrimeswasuponme,andifIhadhadagraveyardIwouldhavedestroyedalltheinfidelsinJerusalem。Iwipedthebloodofftheoldswordandhandeditbacktothepriest——IdidnotwantthefreshgoretoobliteratethosesacredspotsthatcrimsoneditsbrightnessonedaysixhundredyearsagoandthusgaveGodfreywarningthatbeforethesunwentdownhisjourneyoflifewouldend。

StillmovingthroughthegloomoftheChurchoftheHolySepulchrewecametoasmallchapel,hewnoutoftherock——aplacewhichhasbeenknownas"ThePrisonofOurLord"formanycenturies。TraditionsaysthatheretheSaviourwasconfinedjustpreviouslytothecrucifixion。Underanaltarbythedoorwasapairofstonestocksforhumanlegs。Thesethingsarecalledthe"BondsofChrist,"andtheusetheywereonceputtohasgiventhemthenametheynowbear。

TheGreekChapelisthemostroomy,therichestandtheshowiestchapelintheChurchoftheHolySepulchre。Itsaltar,likethatofalltheGreekchurches,isaloftyscreenthatextendsclearacrossthechapel,andisgorgeouswithgildingandpictures。Thenumerouslampsthathangbeforeitareofgoldandsilver,andcostgreatsums。

Butthefeatureoftheplaceisashortcolumnthatrisesfromthemiddleofthemarblepavementofthechapel,andmarkstheexactcentreoftheearth。Themostreliabletraditionstellusthatthiswasknowntobetheearth\'scentre,agesago,andthatwhenChristwasuponearthhesetalldoubtsuponthesubjectatrestforever,bystatingwithhisownlipsthatthetraditionwascorrect。Remember,Hesaidthatthatparticularcolumnstooduponthecentreoftheworld。Ifthecentreoftheworldchanges,thecolumnchangesitspositionaccord—ingly。Thiscolumnhasmovedthreedifferenttimesofitsownaccord。Thisisbecause,ingreatconvulsionsofnature,atthreedifferenttimes,massesoftheearth——wholerangesofmountains,probably——haveflownoffintospace,thuslesseningthediameteroftheearth,andchangingtheexactlocalityofitscentrebyapointortwo。Thisisaverycuriousandinterestingcircumstance,andisawitheringrebuketothosephilosopherswhowouldmakeusbelievethatitisnotpossibleforanyportionoftheearthtoflyoffintospace。

Tosatisfyhimselfthatthisspotwasreallythecentreoftheearth,ascepticoncepaidwellfortheprivilegeofascendingtothedomeofthechurchtoseeifthesungavehimashadowatnoon。Hecamedownperfectlyconvinced。Thedaywasveryclondyandthesunthrewnoshadowsatall;

butthemanwassatisfiedthatifthesunhadcomeoutandmadeshadowsitcouldnothavemadeanyforhim。Proofslikethesearenottobesetasidebytheidletonguesofcavilers。Tosuchasarenotbigoted,andarewillingtobeconvinced,theycarryaconvictionthatnothingcanevershake。

IfevengreaterproofsthanthoseIhavementionedarewanted,tosatisfytheheadstrongandthefoolishthatthisisthegenuinecentreoftheearth,theyarehere。ThegreatestofthemliesinthefactthatfromunderthisverycolumnwastakenthedustfromwhichAdamwasmade。Thiscansurelyberegardedinthelightofasettler。Itisnotlikelythattheoriginalfirstmanwouldhavebeenmadefromaninferiorqualityofearthwhenitwasentirelyconvenienttogetfirstqualityfromtheworld\'scentre。

Thiswillstrikeanyreflectingmindforcibly。ThatAdamwasformedofdirtprocuredinthisveryspotisamplyprovenbythefactthatinsixthousandyearsnomanhaseverbeenabletoprovethatthedirtwasnotprocuredherewhereofhewasmade。

Itisasingularcircumstancethatrightundertheroofofthissamegreatchurch,andnotfarawayfromthatillustriouscolumn,Adamhimself,thefatherofthehumanrace,liesburied。Thereisnoquestionthatheisactuallyburiedinthegravewhichispointedoutashis——therecanbenone——becauseithasneveryetbeenproventhatthatgraveisnotthegraveinwhichheisburied。

ThetombofAdam!Howtouchingitwas,hereinalandofstrangers,farawayfromhome,andfriends,andallwhocaredforme,thustodiscoverthegraveofabloodrelation。True,adistantone,butstillarelation。

Theunerringinstinctofnaturethrilleditsrecognition。Thefountainofmyfilialaflfectionwasstirredtoitsprofoundestdepths,andIgavewaytotumultuousemotion。Ileaneduponapillarandburstintotears。

Ideemitnoshametohaveweptoverthegraveofmypoordeadrelative。

Lethimwhowouldsneeratmyemotionclosethisvolumehere,forhewillfindlittletohistasteinmyjourneyingsthroughHolyLand。Nobleoldman——hedidnotlivetoseeme——hedidnotlivetoseehischild。AndI——I——alas,Ididnotlivetoseehim。Weigheddownbysorrowanddisappointment,hediedbeforeIwasborn——sixthousandbriefsummersbeforeIwasborn。Butletustrytobearitwithfortitude。Letustrustthatheisbetteroffwhereheis。Letustakecomfortinthethoughtthathislossisoureternalgain。

ThenextplacetheguidetookustointheholychurchwasanaltardedicatedtotheRomansoldierwhowasofthemilitaryguardthatattendedattheCrucifixiontokeeporder,andwho——whenthevailoftheTemplewasrentintheawfuldarknessthatfollowed;whentherockofGolgothawassplitasunderbyanearthquake;whentheartilleryofheaventhundered,andinthebalefulglareofthelightningstheshroudeddeadflittedaboutthestreetsofJerusalem——shookwithfearandsaid,"SurelythiswastheSonofGod!"Wherethisaltarstandsnow,thatRomansoldierstoodthen,infullviewofthecrucifiedSaviour——infullsightandhearingofallthemarvelsthatweretranspiringfarandwideaboutthecircumferenceoftheHillofCalvary。Andinthisself—samespotthepriestsoftheTemplebeheadedhimforthoseblasphemouswordshehadspoken。

Inthisaltartheyusedtokeeponeofthemostcuriousrelicsthathumaneyeseverlookedupon——athingthathadpowertofascinatethebeholderinsomemysteriouswayandkeephimgazingforhourstogether。

ItwasnothinglessthanthecopperplatePilateputupontheSaviour\'scross,anduponwhichhewrote,"THISISTHEKINGOFTHEJEWS。"IthinkSt。Helena,themotherofConstantine,foundthiswonderfulmementowhenshewashereinthethirdcentury。ShetraveledalloverPalestine,andwasalwaysfortunate。WheneverthegoodoldenthusiastfoundathingmentionedinherBible,OldorNew,shewouldgoandsearchforthatthing,andneverstopuntilshefoundit。IfitwasAdam,shewouldfindAdam;ifitwastheArk,shewouldfindtheArk;ifitwasGoliath,orJoshua,shewouldfindthem。ShefoundtheinscriptionherethatIwasspeakingof,Ithink。Shefounditinthisveryspot,closetowherethemartyredRomansoldierstood。ThatcopperplateisinoneofthechurchesinRome,now。

Anyonecanseeitthere。Theinscriptionisverydistinct。

WepassedalongafewstepsandsawthealtarbuiltovertheveryspotwherethegoodCatholicpriestssaythesoldiersdividedtheraimentoftheSaviour。

Thenwewentdownintoacavernwhichcavilerssaywasonceacistern。

Itisachapel,now,however——theChapelofSt。Helena。Itisfifty—onefeetlongbyforty—threewide。InitisamarblechairwhichHelenausedtositinwhileshesuperintendedherworkmenwhentheyweredigginganddelvingfortheTrueCross。InthisplaceisanaltardedicatedtoSt。

Dimas,thepenitentthief。Anewbronzestatueishere——astatueofSt。

Helena。ItremindedusofpoorMaximilian,solatelyshot。HepresentedittothischapelwhenhewasabouttoleaveforhisthroneinMexico。

Fromthecisternwedescendedtwelvestepsintoalargeroughly—shapedgrotto,carvedwhollyoutofthelivingrock。HelenablasteditoutwhenshewassearchingforthetrueCross。Shehadalaboriouspieceofwork,here,butitwasrichlyrewarded。Outofthisplaceshegotthecrownofthorns,thenailsofthecross,thetrueCrossitself,andthecrossofthepenitentthief。Whenshethoughtshehadfoundeverythingandwasabouttostop,shewastoldinadreamtocontinueadaylonger。Itwasveryfortunate。Shedidso,andfoundthecrossoftheotherthief。

ThewallsandroofofthisgrottostillweepbittertearsinmemoryoftheeventthattranspiredonCalvary,anddevoutpil

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