The Innocents Abroad

第25章

Thismorning,duringbreakfast,theusualassemblageofsqualidhumanitysatpatientlywithoutthecharmedcircleofthecampandwaitedforsuchcrumbsaspitymightbestowupontheirmisery。Therewereoldandyoung,brown—skinnedandyellow。Someofthemenweretallandstalwart,(foronehardlyseesanywheresuchsplendid—lookingmenashereintheEast,)

butallthewomenandchildrenlookedwornandsad,anddistressedwithhunger。TheyremindedmemuchofIndians,didthesepeople。Theyhadbutlittleclothing,butsuchastheyhadwasfancifulincharacterandfantasticinitsarrangement。Anylittleabsurdgewgaworgimcracktheyhadtheydisposedinsuchawayastomakeitattractattentionmostreadily。Theysatinsilence,andwithtirelesspatiencewatchedoureverymotionwiththatvile,uncomplainingimpolitenesswhichissotrulyIndian,andwhichmakesawhitemansonervousanduncomfortableandsavagethathewantstoexterminatethewholetribe。

Thesepeopleaboutushadotherpeculiarities,whichIhavenoticedinthenobleredman,too:theywereinfestedwithvermin,andthedirthadcakedonthemtillitamountedtobark。

Thelittlechildrenwereinapitiablecondition——theyallhadsoreeyes,andwereotherwiseafflictedinvariousways。TheysaythathardlyanativechildinalltheEastisfreefromsoreeyes,andthatthousandsofthemgoblindofoneeyeorbotheveryyear。Ithinkthismustbeso,forIseeplentyofblindpeopleeveryday,andIdonotrememberseeinganychildrenthathadn\'tsoreeyes。And,wouldyousupposethatanAmericanmothercouldsitforanhour,withherchildinherarms,andletahundredfliesroostuponitseyesallthattimeundisturbed?Iseethateveryday。

Itmakesmyfleshcreep。Yesterdaywemetawomanridingonalittlejackass,andshehadalittlechildinherarms——honestly,Ithoughtthechildhadgogglesonasweapproached,andIwonderedhowitsmothercouldaffordsomuchstyle。Butwhenwedrewnear,wesawthatthegoggleswerenothingbutacampmeetingoffliesassembledaroundeachofthechild\'seyes,andatthesametimetherewasadetachmentprospectingitsnose。Theflieswerehappy,thechildwascontented,andsothemotherdidnotinterfere。

Assoonasthetribefoundoutthatwehadadoctorinourparty,theybegantoflockinfromallquarters。Dr。B。,inthecharityofhisnature,hadtakenachildfromawomanwhosatnearby,andputsomesortofawashuponitsdiseasedeyes。Thatwomanwentoffandstartedthewholenation,anditwasasighttoseethemswarm!Thelame,thehalt,theblind,theleprous——allthedistempersthatarebredofindolence,dirt,andiniquity——wererepresentedintheCongressintenminutes,andstilltheycame!Everywomanthathadasickbabybroughtitalong,andeverywomanthathadn\'t,borrowedone。Whatreverentandwhatworshipinglookstheybentuponthatdread,mysteriouspower,theDoctor!Theywatchedhimtakehisphialsout;

theywatchedhimmeasuretheparticlesofwhitepowder;theywatchedhimadddropsofonepreciousliquid,anddropsofanother;theylostnottheslightestmovement;theireyeswereriveteduponhimwithafascinationthatnothingcoulddistract。Ibelievetheythoughthewasgiftedlikeagod。Wheneachindividualgothisportionofmedicine,hiseyeswereradiantwithjoy——notwithstandingbynaturetheyareathanklessandimpassiverace——anduponhisfacewaswrittentheunquestioningfaiththatnothingonearthcouldpreventthepatientfromgettingwellnow。

Christknewhowtopreachtothesesimple,superstitious,disease—torturedcreatures:Hehealedthesick。Theyflockedtoourpoorhumandoctorthismorningwhenthefameofwhathehaddonetothesickchildwentabroadintheland,andtheyworshipedhimwiththeireyeswhiletheydidnotknowasyetwhethertherewasvirtueinhissimplesornot。Theancestorsofthese——peoplepreciselylikethemincolor,dress,manners,customs,simplicity——flockedinvastmultitudesafterChrist,andwhentheysawHimmaketheafflictedwholewithaword,itisnowondertheyworshipedHim。NowonderHisdeedswerethetalkofthenation。NowonderthemultitudethatfollowedHimwassogreatthatatonetime——thirtymilesfromhere——theyhadtoletasickmandownthroughtheroofbecausenoapproachcouldbemadetothedoor;nowonderHisaudiencesweresogreatatGalileethatHehadtopreachfromashipremovedalittledistancefromtheshore;

nowonderthateveninthedesertplacesaboutBethsaida,fivethousandinvadedHissolitude,andHehadtofeedthembyamiracleorelseseethemsufferfortheirconfidingfaithanddevotion;nowonderwhentherewasagreatcommotioninacityinthosedays,oneneighborexplainedittoanotherinwordstothiseffect:"TheysaythatJesusofNazarethiscome!"

Well,asIwassaying,thedoctordistributedmedicineaslongashehadanytodistribute,andhisreputationismightyinGalileethisday。

AmonghispatientswasthechildoftheShiek\'sdaughter——foreventhispoor,raggedhandfulofsoresandsinhasitsroyalShiek——apooroldmummythatlookedasifhewouldbemoreathomeinapoor—housethanintheChiefMagistracyofthistribeofhopeless,shirtlesssavages。Theprincess——I

meantheShiek\'sdaughter——wasonlythirteenorfourteenyearsold,andhadaverysweetfaceandaprettyone。ShewastheonlySyrianfemalewehaveseenyetwhowasnotsosinfullyuglythatshecouldn\'tsmileafterteno\'clockSaturdaynightwithoutbreakingtheSabbath。Herchildwasahardspecimen,though——therewasn\'tenoughofittomakeapie,andthepoorlittlethinglookedsopleadinglyupatallwhocamenearit(asifithadanideathatnowwasitschanceornever,)thatwewerefilledwithcompassionwhichwasgenuineandnotputon。

ButthislastnewhorseIhavegotistryingtobreakhisneckoverthetent—ropes,andIshallhavetogooutandanchorhim。JerichoandIhavepartedcompany。Thenewhorseisnotmuchtoboastof,Ithink。

Oneofhishindlegsbendsthewrongway,andtheotheroneisasstraightandstiffasatent—pole。Mostofhisteetharegone,andheisasblindasbat。Hisnosehasbeenbrokenatsometimeorother,andisarchedlikeaculvertnow。Hisunderliphangsdownlikeacamel\'s,andhisearsarechoppedoffclosetohishead。Ihadsometroubleatfirsttofindanameforhim,butIfinallyconcludedtocallhimBaalbec,becauseheissuchamagnificentruin。Icannotkeepfromtalkingaboutmyhorses,becauseIhaveaverylongandtediousjourneybeforeme,andtheynaturallyoccupymythoughtsaboutasmuchasmattersofapparentlymuchgreaterimportance。

WesatisfiedourpilgrimsbymakingthosehardridesfromBaalbectoDamascus,butDan\'shorseandJack\'sweresocrippledwehadtoleavethembehindandgetfreshanimalsforthem。ThedragomansaysJack\'shorsedied。

IswappedhorseswithMohammed,thekingly—lookingEgyptianwhoisourFerguson\'slieutenant。ByFergusonImeanourdragomanAbraham,ofcourse。

Ididnottakethishorseonaccountofhispersonalappearance,butbecauseIhavenotseenhisback。Idonotwishtoseeit。Ihaveseenthebacksofalltheotherhorses,andfoundmostofthemcoveredwithdreadfulsaddle—boilswhichIknowhavenotbeenwashedordoctoredforyears。Theideaofridingalldaylongoversuchghastlyin—quisitionsoftortureissickening。

Myhorsemustbeliketheothers,butIhaveatleasttheconsolationofnotknowingittobeso。

IhopethatinfutureImaybesparedanymoresentimentalpraisesoftheArab\'sidolatryofhishorse。InboyhoodIlongedtobeanArabofthedesertandhaveabeautifulmare,andcallherSelimorBenjaminorMohammed,andfeedherwithmyownhands,andlethercomeintothetent,andteachhertocaressmeandlookfondlyuponmewithhergreattendereyes;andIwishedthatastrangermightcomeatsuchatimeandoffermeahundredthousanddollarsforher,sothatIcoulddoliketheotherArabs——hesitate,yearnforthemoney,butovercomebymyloveformymare,atlastsay,"Partwiththee,mybeautifulone!Neverwithmylife!Away,tempter,Iscornthygold!"andthenboundintothesaddleandspeedoverthedesertlikethewind!

ButIrecallthoseaspirations。IftheseArabsbeliketheotherArabs,theirlovefortheirbeautifulmaresisafraud。Theseofmyacquaintancehavenolovefortheirhorses,nosentimentofpityforthem,andnoknowledgeofhowtotreatthemorcareforthem。TheSyriansaddle—blanketisaquiltedmattresstwoorthreeinchesthick。Itisneverremovedfromthehorse,dayornight。Itgetsfullofdirtandhair,andbecomessoakedwithsweat。

Itisboundtobreedsores。Thesepiratesneverthinkofwashingahorse\'sback。Theydonotshelterthehorsesinthetents,either——theymuststayoutandtaketheweatherasitcomes。Lookatpoorcroppedanddilapidated"Baalbec,"andweepforthesentimentthathasbeenwastedupontheSelimsofromance!

Chapter46

Aboutanhour\'srideoverarough,rockyroad,halffloodedwithwater,andthroughaforestofoaksofBashan,broughtustoDan。

Fromalittlemoundhereintheplainissuesabroadstreamoflimpidwaterandformsalargeshallowpool,andthenrushesfuriouslyonward,augmentedinvolume。ThispuddleisanimportantsourceoftheJordan。

Itsbanks,andthoseofthebrookarerespectablyadornedwithbloomingoleanders,buttheunutterablebeautyofthespotwillnotthrowawell—balancedmanintoconvulsions,astheSyrianbooksoftravelwouldleadonetosuppose。

FromthespotIamspeakingof,acannon—ballwouldcarrybeyondtheconfinesofHolyLandandlightuponprofanegroundthreemilesaway。Wewereonlyonelittlehour\'stravelwithinthebordersofHolyLand——wehadhardlybeguntoappreciateyetthatwewerestandinguponanydifferentsortofearththanthatwehadalwaysbeenusedto,andseehowthehistoricnamesbeganalreadytocluster!Dan——Bashan——LakeHuleh——theSourcesofJordan——theSeaofGalilee。Theywereallinsightbutthelast,anditwasnotfaraway。ThelittletownshipofBashanwasoncethekingdomsofamousinScriptureforitsbullsanditsoaks。LakeHulehistheBiblical"Wat

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