第16章

Hereandthere，inornamentalalcoves，stretcheduponbedsofbones，laydeadanddried—upmonks，withlankframesdressedintheblackrobesoneseesordinarilyuponpriests。Weexaminedoneclosely。Theskinnyhandswereclaspeduponthebreast;twolustrelesstuftsofhairstucktotheskull;theskinwasbrownandsunken;itstretchedtightlyoverthecheekbonesandmadethemstandoutsharply;thecrispdeadeyesweredeepinthesockets;thenostrilswerepainfullyprominent，theendofthenosebeinggone;thelipshadshriveledawayfromtheyellowteeth:andbroughtdowntousthroughthecirclingyears，andpetrifiedthere，wasaweirdlaughafullcenturyold！

Itwasthejolliestlaugh，butyetthemostdreadful，thatonecanimagine。

Surely，Ithought，itmusthavebeenamostextraordinaryjokethisveteranproducedwithhislatestbreath，thathehasnotgotdonelaughingatityet。AtthismomentIsawthattheoldinstinctwasstrongupontheboys，andIsaidwehadbetterhurrytoSt。Peter\'s。Theyweretryingtokeepfromasking，"Is——ishedead？"

Itmakesmedizzy，tothinkoftheVatican——ofitswildernessofstatues，paintings，andcuriositiesofeverydescriptionandeveryage。The"oldmasters"（especiallyinsculpture，）fairlyswarm，there。IcannotwriteabouttheVatican。IthinkIshallneverrememberanythingIsawtheredistinctlybutthemummies，andtheTransfiguration，byRaphael，andsomeotherthingsitisnotnecessarytomentionnow。IshallremembertheTransfigurationpartlybecauseitwasplacedinaroomalmostbyitself;partlybecauseitisacknowledgedbyalltobethefirstoilpaintingintheworld;andpartlybecauseitwaswonderfullybeautiful。Thecolorsarefreshandrich，the"expression，"Iamtold，isfine，the"feeling"islively，the"tone"

isgood，the"depth"isprofound，andthewidthisaboutfourandahalffeet，Ishouldjudge。Itisapicturethatreallyholdsone\'sattention;

itsbeautyisfascinating。ItisfineenoughtobeaRenaissance。AremarkImadeawhileagosuggestsathought——andahope。IsitnotpossiblethatthereasonIfindsuchcharmsinthispictureisbecauseitisoutofthecrazychaosofthegalleries？Ifsomeoftheothersweresetapart，mightnottheybebeautiful？IfthisweresetinthemidstofthetempestofpicturesonefindsinthevastgalleriesoftheRomanpalaces，wouldIthinkitsohandsome？If，uptothistime，Ihadseenonlyone"oldmaster"

ineachpalace，insteadofacresandacresofwallsandceilingsfairlypaperedwiththem，mightInothaveamorecivilizedopinionoftheoldmastersthanIhavenow？Ithinkso。WhenIwasaschool—boyandwastohaveanewknife，Icouldnotmakeupmymindastowhichwastheprettiestintheshow—case，andIdidnotthinkanyofthemwereparticularlypretty;

andsoIchosewithaheavyheart。ButwhenIlookedatmypurchase，athome，wherenoglitteringbladescameintocompetitionwithit，Iwasastonishedtoseehowhandsomeitwas。Tothisdaymynewhatslookbetteroutoftheshopthantheydidinitwithothernewhats。Itbeginstodawnuponme，now，thatpossibly，whatIhavebeentakingforuniformuglinessinthegalleriesmaybeuniformbeautyafterall。Ihonestlyhopeitis，toothers，butcertainlyitisnottome。PerhapsthereasonIusedtoenjoygoingtotheAcademyofFineArtsinNewYorkwasbecausetherewerebutafewhundredpaintingsinit，anditdidnotsurfeitmetogothroughthelist。IsupposetheAcademywasbaconandbeansintheForty—MileDesert，andaEuropeangalleryisastatedinnerofthirteencourses。Oneleavesnosignafterhimoftheonedish，butthethirteenfrightenawayhisappetiteandgivehimnosatisfaction。

ThereisonethingIamcertainof，though。WithalltheMichaelAngelos，theRaphaels，theGuidosandtheotheroldmasters，thesublimehistoryofRomeremainsunpainted！TheypaintedVirginsenough，andpopesenoughandsaintlyscarecrowsenough，topeopleParadise，almost，andthesethingsarealltheydidpaint。"Nerofiddlingo\'erburningRome，"theassassinationofCæsar，thestirringspectacleofahundredthousandpeoplebendingforwardwithraptinterest，inthecoliseum，toseetwoskillfulgladiatorshackingawayeachothers\'lives，atigerspringinguponakneelingmartyr——theseandathousandothermatterswhichwereadofwithalivinginterest，mustbesoughtforonlyinbooks——notamongtherubbishleftbytheoldmasters——whoarenomore，Ihavethesatisfactionofinformingthepublic。

Theydidpaint，andtheydidcarveinmarble，onehistoricalscene，andoneonly，（ofanygreathistoricalconsequence。）Andwhatwasitandwhydidtheychooseit，particularly？ItwastheRapeoftheSabines，andtheychoseitforthelegsandbusts。

Iliketolookatstatues，however，andIliketolookatpictures，also——evenofmonkslookingupinsacredecstacy，andmonkslookingdowninmeditation，andmonksskirmishingforsomethingtoeat——andthereforeIdropillnaturetothankthepapalgovernmentforsojealouslyguardingandsoindustriouslygatheringupthesethings;andforpermittingme，astrangerandnotanentirelyfriendlyone，toroamatwillandunmolestedamongthem，chargingmenothing，andonlyrequiringthatIshallbehavemyselfsimplyaswellasIoughttobehaveinanyotherman\'shouse。I

thanktheHolyFatherrightheartily，andIwishhimlonglifeandplentyofhappiness。

ThePopeshavelongbeenthepatronsandpreserversofart，justasournew，practicalRepublicistheencouragerandupholderofmechanics。

IntheirVaticanisstoredupallthatiscuriousandbeautifulinart;

inourPatentOfficeishoardedallthatiscuriousorusefulinmechanics。

Whenamaninventsanewstyleofhorse—collarordiscoversanewandsuperiormethodoftelegraphing，ourgovernmentissuesapatenttohimthatisworthafortune;whenamandigsupanancientstatueintheCampagna，thePopegiveshimafortuneingoldcoin。Wecanmakesomethingofaguessataman\'scharacterbythestyleofnosehecarriesonhisface。TheVaticanandthePatentOfficearegovernmentalnoses，andtheybearadealofcharacteraboutthem。

TheguideshowedusacolossalstatueofJupiter，intheVatican，whichhesaidlookedsodamagedandrusty——soliketheGodoftheVagabonds——becauseithadbutrecentlybeendugupintheCampagna。HeaskedhowmuchwesupposedthisJupiterwasworth？Ireplied，withintelligentpromptness，thathewasprobablyworthaboutfourdollars——maybefourandahalf。"Ahundredthousanddollars！"Fergusonsaid。Fergusonsaid，further，thatthePopepermitsnoancientworkofthiskindtoleavehisdominions。Heappointsacommissiontoexaminediscoverieslikethisandreportuponthevalue;

thenthePopepaysthediscovererone—halfofthatassessedvalueandtakesthestatue。HesaidthisJupiterwasdugfromafieldwhichhadjustbeenboughtforthirty—sixthousanddollars，sothefirstcropwasagoodoneforthenewfarmer。IdonotknowwhetherFergusonalwaystellsthetruthornot，butIsupposehedoes。Iknowthatanexorbitantexportdutyisexacteduponallpicturespaintedbytheoldmasters，inordertodiscouragethesaleofthoseintheprivatecollections。Iamsatisfied，also，thatgenuineoldmastershardlyexistatall，inAmerica，becausethecheapestandmostinsignificantofthemarevaluedatthepriceofafinefarm。

IproposedtobuyasmalltrifleofaRaphael，myself，butthepriceofitwaseightythousanddollars，theexportdutywouldhavemadeitconsiderablyoverahundred，andsoIstudiedonitawhileandconcludednottotakeit。

IwishheretomentionaninscriptionIhaveseen，beforeIforgetit:

"GlorytoGodinthehighest，peaceonearthTOMENOF

GOODWILL！"Itisnotgoodscripture，butitissoundCatholicandhumannature。

Thisisinlettersofgoldaroundtheapsisofamosaicgroupatthesideofthescalasanta，churchofSt。JohnLateran，theMotherandMistressofalltheCatholicchurchesoftheworld。ThegrouprepresentstheSaviour，St。Peter，PopeLeo，St。Silvester，ConstantineandCharlemagne。

PeterisgivingthepalliumtothePope，andastandardtoCharlemagne。

TheSaviourisgivingthekeystoSt。Silvester，andastandardtoConstantine。

NoprayerisofferedtotheSaviour，whoseemstobeoflittleimportanceanywhereinRome;butaninscriptionbelowsays，"BlessedPeter，givelifetoPopeLeoandvictorytokingCharles。"Itdoesnotsay，"Intercedeforus，throughtheSaviour，withtheFather，forthisboon，"but"BlessedPeter，giveitus。"

Inallseriousness——withoutmeaningtobefrivolous——withoutmeaningtobeirreverent，andmorethanall，withoutmeaningtobeblasphemous，——I

stateasmysimpledeductionfromthethingsIhaveseenandthethingsIhaveheard，thattheHolyPersonagesrankthusinRome:

First——"TheMotherofGod"——otherwisetheVirginMary。

Second——TheDeity。

Third——Peter。

Fourth——SometwelveorfifteencanonizedPopesandmartyrs。

Fifth——JesusChristtheSaviour——（butalwaysasaninfantinarms。）

Imaybewronginthis——myjudgmenterrsoften，justasisthecasewithothermen\'s——butitismyjudgment，beitgoodorbad。

JusthereIwillmentionsomethingthatseemscurioustome。Thereareno"Christ\'sChurches"inRome，andno"ChurchesoftheHolyGhost，"thatIcandiscover。Therearesomefourhundredchurches，butaboutafourthofthemseemtobenamedfortheMadonnaandSt。Peter。TherearesomanynamedforMarythattheyhavetobedistinguishedbyallsortsofaffixes，ifIunderstandthematterrightly。ThenwehavechurchesofSt。Louis;

St。Augustine;St。Agnes;St。Calixtus;St。LorenzoinLucina;St。LorenzoinDamaso;St。Cecilia;St。Athanasius;St。PhilipNeri;St。Catherine，St。Dominico，andamultitudeoflessersaintswhosenamesarenotfamiliarintheworld——andawaydown，clearoutofthelistofthechurches，comesacoupleofhospitals:oneofthemisnamedfortheSaviourandtheotherfortheHolyGhost！

DayafterdayandnightafternightwehavewanderedamongthecrumblingwondersofRome;dayafterdayandnightafternightwehavefeduponthedustanddecayoffive—and—twentycenturies——havebroodedoverthembydayanddreamptofthembynighttillsometimesweseemedmolderingawayourselves，andgrowingdefacedandcornerless，andliableatanymomenttofallapreytosomeantiquaryandbepatchedinthelegs，and"restored"

withanunseemlynose，andlabeledwronganddatedwrong，andsetupintheVaticanforpoetstodrivelaboutandvandalstoscribbletheirnamesonforeverandforevermore。

ButthesurestwaytostopwritingaboutRomeistostop。Iwishedtowriteareal"guide—book"chapteronthisfascinatingcity，butIcouldnotdoit，becauseIhavefeltallthetimelikeaboyinacandy—shop——therewaseverythingtochoosefrom，andyetnochoice。Ihavedriftedalonghopelesslyforahundredpagesofmanuscriptwithoutknowingwheretocommence。

Iwillnotcommenceatall。Ourpassportshavebeenexamined。WewillgotoNaples。

Chapter29

TheshipislyinghereintheharborofNaples——quarantined。Shehasbeenhereseveraldaysandwillremainseveralmore。WethatcamebyrailfromRomehaveescapedthismisfortune。Ofcoursenooneisallowedtogoonboardtheship，orcomeashorefromher。Sheisaprison，now。Thepassengersprobablyspendthelong，blazingdayslookingoutfromundertheawningsatVesuviusandthebeautifulcity——andinswearing。Thinkoftendaysofthissortofpastime！——Wegoouteverydayinaboatandrequestthemtocomeashore。Itsoothesthem。Welietenstepsfromtheshipandtellthemhowsplendidthecityis;andhowmuchbetterthehotelfareisherethananywhereelseinEurope;andhowcoolitis;andwhatfrozencontinentsoficecreamthereare;andwhatatimewearehavingcavortingaboutthecountryandsailingtotheislandsintheBay。Thistranquilizesthem。ASCENTOFVESUVIUS。

IshallrememberourtriptoVesuviusformanyaday——partlybecauseofitssight—seeingexperiences，butchieflyonaccountofthefatigueofthejourney。TwoorthreeofushadbeenrestingourselvesamongthetranquilandbeautifulsceneryoftheislandofIschia，eighteenmilesoutintheharbor，fortwodays;wecalledit"resting，"butIdonotremembernowwhattherestingconsistedof，forwhenwegotbacktoNapleswehadnotsleptforforty—eighthours。Wewerejustabouttogotobedearlyintheevening，andcatchuponsomeofthesleepwehadlost，whenweheardofthisVesuviusexpedition。Therewastobeeightofusintheparty，andweweretoleaveNaplesatmidnight。Welaidinsomeprovisionsforthetrip，engagedcarriagestotakeustoAnnunciation，andthenmovedaboutthecity，tokeepawake，tilltwelve。Wegotawaypunctually，andinthecourseofanhourandahalfarrivedatthetownofAnnunciation。

Annunciationistheverylastplaceunderthesun。InothertownsinItalythepeopleliearoundquietlyandwaitforyoutoaskthemaquestionordosomeovertactthatcanbechargedfor——butinAnnunciationtheyhavelosteventhatfragmentofdelicacy;theyseizealady\'sshawlfromachairandhandittoherandchargeapenny;theyopenacarriagedoor，andchargeforit——shutitwhenyougetout，andchargeforit;theyhelpyoutotakeoffaduster——twocents;brushyourclothesandmakethemworsethantheywerebefore——twocents;smileuponyou——twocents;bow，withalick—spittlesmirk，hatinhand——twocents;theyvolunteerallinformation，suchasthatthemuleswillarrivepresently——twocents——warmday，sir——twocents——takeyoufourhourstomaketheascent——twocents。Andsotheygo。Theycrowdyou——infestyou——swarmaboutyou，andsweatandsmelloffensively，andlooksneakingandmean，andobsequious。Thereisnoofficetoodegradingforthemtoperform，formoney。Ihavehadnoop—portunitytofindoutanythingabouttheupperclassesbymyownobservation，butfromwhatIhearsaidaboutthemIjudgethatwhattheylackinoneortwoofthebadtraitsthecanaillehave，theymakeupinoneortwoothersthatareworse。Howthepeoplebeg！——manyofthemverywelldressed，too。

IsaidIknewnothingagainsttheupperclassesbypersonalobservation。

Imustrecallit！Ihadforgotten。WhatIsawtheirbravestandtheirfairestdolastnight，thelowestmultitudethatcouldbescrapedupoutofthepurlieusofChristendomwouldblushtodo，Ithink。Theyassembledbyhundreds，andeventhousands，inthegreatTheatreofSanCarlo，todo——what？Why，simply，tomakefunofanoldwoman——toderide，tohiss，tojeeratanactresstheyonceworshipped，butwhosebeautyisfadednowandwhosevoicehaslostitsformerrichness。Everybodyspokeoftheraresporttherewastobe。Theysaidthetheatrewouldbecrammed，becauseFrezzoliniwasgoingtosing。Itwassaidshecouldnotsingwell，now，butthenthepeoplelikedtoseeher，anyhow。Andsowewent。Andeverytimethewomansangtheyhissedandlaughed——thewholemagnificenthouse——andassoonassheleftthestagetheycalledheronagainwithapplause。Onceortwiceshewasencoredfiveandsixtimesinsuccession，andreceivedwithhisseswhensheappeared，anddischargedwithhissesandlaughterwhenshehadfinished——theninstantlyencoredandinsultedagain！Andhowthehigh—bornknavesenjoyedit！White—kiddedgentlemenandladieslaughedtillthetearscame，andclappedtheirhandsinveryecstacywhenthatunhappyoldwomanwouldcomemeeklyoutforthesixthtime，withuncomplainingpatience，tomeetastormofhisses！Itwasthecruelestexhibition——themostwanton，themostunfeeling。ThesingerwouldhaveconqueredanaudienceofAmericanrowdiesbyherbrave，unflinchingtranquillity（forsheansweredencoreafterencore，andsmiledandbowedpleasantly，andsangthebestshepossiblycould，andwentbowingoff，throughallthejeersandhisses，withouteverlosingcountenanceortemper:）andsurelyinanyotherlandthanItalyhersexandherhelplessnessmusthavebeenanampleprotec—tiontoher——shecouldhaveneedednoother。Thinkwhatamultitudeofsmallsoulswerecrowdedintothattheatrelastnight。IfthemanagercouldhavefilledhistheatrewithNeapolitansoulsalone，withoutthebodies，hecouldnothaveclearedlessthanninetymillionsofdollars。Whattraitsofcharactermustamanhavetoenablehimtohelpthreethousandmiscreantstohiss，andjeer，andlaughatonefriendlessoldwoman，andshamefullyhumiliateher？Hemusthaveallthevile，meantraitsthereare。Myobservationpersuadesme（Idonotliketoventurebeyondmyownpersonalobservation，）

thattheupperclassesofNaplespossessthosetraitsofcharacter。Otherwisetheymaybeverygoodpeople;Icannotsay。ASCENTOFVESUVIUS——CONTINUED。

InthiscityofNaples，theybelieveinandsupportoneofthewretchedestofallthereligiousimposturesonecanfindinItaly——themiraculousliquefactionofthebloodofSt。Januarius。TwiceayearthepriestsassembleallthepeopleattheCathedral，andgetoutthisvialofclottedbloodandletthemseeitslowlydissolveandbecomeliquid——andeverydayforeightdays，thisdismalfarceisrepeated，whilethepriestsgoamongthecrowdandcollectmoneyfortheexhibition。Thefirstday，thebloodliquefiesinforty—sevenminutes——thechurchiscrammed，then，andtimemustbeallowedthecollectorstogetaround:afterthatitliquefiesalittlequickerandalittlequicker，everyday，asthehousesgrowsmaller，tillontheeighthday，withonlyafewdozenspresenttoseethemiracle，itliquefiesinfourminutes。

Andhere，also，theyusedtohaveagrandprocession，ofpriests，citizens，soldiers，sailors，andthehighdignitariesoftheCityGovernment，onceayear，toshavetheheadofamade—upMadonna——astuffedandpaintedimage，likeamilliner\'sdummy——whosehairmiraculouslygrewandrestoreditselfeverytwelvemonths。Theystillkeptupthisshavingprocessionaslateasfourorfiveyearsago。Itwasasourceofgreatprofittothechurchthatpossessedtheremarkableeffigy，andtheceremonyofthepublicbarberingofherwasalwayscarriedoutwiththegreatestpossibleeclatanddisplay——themorethebetter，becausethemoreexcitementtherewasaboutitthelargerthecrowdsitdrewandtheheaviertherevenuesitproduced——butatlastadaycamewhenthePopeandhisservantswereunpopularinNaples，andtheCityGovernmentstoppedtheMadonna\'sannualshow。

TherewehavetwospecimensoftheseNeapolitans——twoofthesilliestpossiblefrauds，whichhalfthepopulationreligiouslyandfaithfullybelieved，andtheotherhalfeitherbelievedalsoorelsesaidnothingabout，andthuslentthemselvestothesupportoftheimposture。Iamverywellsatisfiedtothinkthewholepopulationbelievedinthosepoor，cheapmiracles——apeoplewhowanttwocentseverytimetheybowtoyou，andwhoabuseawoman，arecapableofit，Ithink。ASCENTOFVESUVIUS——CONTINUED。

TheseNeapolitansalwaysaskfourtimesasmuchmoneyastheyintendtotake，butifyougivethemwhattheyfirstdemand，theyfeelashamedofthemselvesforaimingsolow，andimmediatelyaskmore。Whenmoneyistobepaidandreceived，thereisalwayssomevehementjawingandgesticulatingaboutit。Onecannotbuyandpayfortwocents\'worthofclamswithouttroubleandaquarrel。One"course，"inatwo—horsecarriage，costsafranc——thatislaw——butthehackmanalwaysdemandsmore，onsomepretenceorother，andifhegetsithemakesanewdemand。Itissaidthatastrangertookaone—horsecarriageforacourse——tariff，halfafranc。Hegavethemanfivefrancs，bywayofexperiment。Hedemandedmore，andreceivedanotherfranc。Againhedemandedmore，andgotafranc——demandedmore，anditwasrefused。Hegrewvehement——wasagainrefused，andbecamenoisy。Thestrangersaid，"Well，givemethesevenfrancsagain，andIwillseewhatIcando"——andwhenhegotthem，hehandedthehackmanhalfafranc，andheimmediatelyaskedfortwocentstobuyadrinkwith。ItmaybethoughtthatIamprejudiced。

PerhapsIam。IwouldbeashamedofmyselfifIwerenot。ASCENTOFVESUVIUS——CONTINUED。

Well，asIwassaying，wegotourmulesandhorses，afteranhourandahalfofbargainingwiththepopulationofAnnunciation，andstartedsleepilyupthemountain，withavagrantateachmule\'stailwhopretendedtobedrivingthebrutealong，butwasreallyholdingonandgettinghimselfdraggedupinstead。Imadeslowheadwayatfirst，butIbegantogetdissatisfiedattheideaofpayingmyminionfivefrancstoholdmymulebackbythetailandkeephimfromgoingupthehill，andsoIdischargedhim。Igotalongfasterthen。

WehadonemagnificentpictureofNaplesfromahighpointonthemountainside。Wesawnothingbutthegaslamps，ofcourse——two—thirdsofacircle，skirtingthegreatBay——anecklaceofdiamondsglintingupthroughthedarknessfromtheremotedistance——lessbrilliantthanthestarsoverhead，butmoresoftly，richlybeautiful——andoverallthegreatcitythelightscrossedandrecrossedeachotherinmanyandmanyasparklinglineandcurve。Andbackofthetown，fararoundandabroadoverthemilesoflevelcampagna，werescatteredrows，andcircles，andclustersoflights，allglowinglikesomanygems，andmarkingwhereascoreofvillagesweresleeping。

Aboutthistime，thefellowwhowashangingontothetailofthehorseinfrontofmeandpracticingallsortsofunnecessarycrueltyupontheanimal，gotkickedsomefourteenrods，andthisincident，togetherwiththefairyspectacleofthelightsfarinthedistance，mademeserenelyhappy，andIwasgladIstartedtoVesuvius。ASCENTOFMOUNTVESUVIUS——CONTINUED。

Thissubjectwillbeexcellentmatterforachapter，andtomorrowornextdayIwillwriteit。

Chapter30ASCENTOFVESUVIUS——CONTINUED。

"SeeNaplesanddie。"Well，Idonotknowthatonewouldnecessarilydieaftermerelyseeingit，buttoattempttolivetheremightturnoutalittledifferently。ToseeNaplesaswesawitintheearlydawnfromfaruponthesideofVesuvius，istoseeapictureofwonderfulbeauty。

Atthatdistanceitsdingybuildingslookedwhite——andso，rankonrankofbalconies，windowsandroofs，theypiledthemselvesupfromtheblueoceantillthecolossalcastleofSt。Elmotoppedthegrandwhitepyramidandgavethepicturesymmetry，emphasisandcompleteness。Andwhenitsliliesturnedtoroses——whenitblushedunderthesun\'sfirstkiss——

itwasbeautifulbeyondalldescription。Onemightwellsay，then，"SeeNaplesanddie。"Theframeofthepicturewascharming，itself。Infront，thesmoothsea——avastmosaicofmanycolors;theloftyislandsswimminginadreamyhazeinthedistance;atourendofthecitythestatelydoublepeakofVesuvius，anditsstrongblackribsandseamsoflavastretchingdowntothelimitlesslevelcampagna——agreencarpetthatenchantstheeyeandleadsitonandon，pastclustersoftrees，andisolatedhouses，andsnowyvillages，untilitshredsoutinafringeofmistandgeneralvaguenessfaraway。ItisfromtheHermitage，thereonthesideofVesuvius，thatoneshould"seeNaplesanddie。"

Butdonotgowithinthewallsandlookatitindetail。Thattakesawaysomeoftheromanceofthething。Thepeoplearefilthyintheirhabits，andthismakesfilthystreetsandbreedsdisagreeablesightsandsmells。

ThereneverwasacommunitysoprejudicedagainstthecholeraastheseNeapolitansare。Buttheyhavegoodreasontobe。ThecholeragenerallyvanquishesaNeapolitanwhenitseizeshim，because，youunderstand，beforethedoctorcandigthroughthedirtandgetatthediseasethemandies。

Theupperclassestakeasea—batheveryday，andareprettydecent。

Thestreetsaregenerallyaboutwideenoughforonewagon，andhowtheydoswarmwithpeople！ItisBroadwayrepeatedineverystreet，ineverycourt，ineveryalley！Suchmasses，suchthrongs，suchmultitudesofhurrying，bustling，strugglinghumanity！Weneversawthelikeofit，hardlyeveninNewYork，Ithink。Thereareseldomanysidewalks，andwhenthereare，theyarenotoftenwideenoughtopassamanonwithoutcaromingonhim。

Soeverybodywalksinthestreet——andwherethestreetiswideenough，carriagesareforeverdashingalong。Whyathousandpeoplearenotrunoverandcrippledeverydayisamysterythatnomancansolve。Butifthereisaneighthwonderintheworld，itmustbethedwelling—housesofNaples。Ihonestlybelieveagoodmajorityofthemareahundredfeethigh！Andthesolidbrickwallsaresevenfeetthrough。

Yougoupnineflightsofstairsbeforeyougettothe"first"floor。No，notnine，butthereorthereabouts。Thereisalittlebird—cageofanironrailinginfrontofeverywindowclearawayup，up，up，amongtheeternalclouds，wheretheroofis，andthereisalwayssomebodylookingoutofeverywindow——peopleofordinarysizelookingoutfromthefirstfloor，peopleashadesmallerfromthesecond，peoplethatlookalittlesmalleryetfromthethird——andfromthenceupwardtheygrowsmallerandsmallerbyaregularlygraduateddiminution，tillthefolksinthetopmostwindowsseemmorelikebirdsinanuncommonlytallmartin—boxthananythingelse。

Theperspectiveofoneofthesenarrowcracksofstreets，withitsrowsoftallhousesstretchingawaytilltheycometogetherinthedistancelikerailwaytracks;itsclothes—linescrossingoveratallaltitudesandwavingtheirbanneredraggednessovertheswarmsofpeoplebelow;andthewhite—dressedwomenperchedinbalconyrailingsallthewayfromthepavementuptotheheavens——aperspectivelikethatisreallyworthgoingintoNeapolitandetailstosee。ASCENTOFVESUVIUS——CONTINUED。

Naples，withitsimmediatesuburbs，containssixhundredandtwenty—fivethousandinhabitants，butIamsatisfieditcoversnomoregroundthananAmericancityofonehundredandfiftythousand。ItreachesupintotheairinfinitelyhigherthanthreeAmericancities，though，andthereiswherethesecretofitlies。Iwillobservehere，inpassing，thatthecontrastsbetweenopulenceandpoverty，andmagnificenceandmisery，aremorefrequentandmorestrikinginNaplesthaninPariseven。OnemustgototheBoisdeBoulognetoseefashionabledressing，splendidequipagesandstunningliveries，andtotheFaubourgSt。Antoinetoseevice，misery，hunger，rags，dirt——butinthethoroughfaresofNaplesthesethingsareallmixedtogether。Nakedboysofnineyearsandthefancy—dressedchildrenofluxury;shredsandtatters，andbrilliantuniforms;jackass—cartsandstate—carriages;beggars，PrincesandBishops，jostleeachotherineverystreet。Atsixo\'clockeveryevening，allNaplesturnsouttodriveontheRivierediChiaja，（whateverthatmaymean;）andfortwohoursonemaystandthereandseethemotliestandtheworstmixedprocessiongobythatevereyesbeheld。Princes（therearemorePrincesthanpolicemeninNaples——thecityisinfestedwiththem）——Princeswholiveupsevenflightsofstairsanddon\'townanyprincipalities，willkeepacarriageandgohungry;andclerks，mechanics，millinersandstrumpetswillgowithouttheirdinnersandsquanderthemoneyonahack—rideintheChiaja;therag—tagandrubbishofthecitystackthemselvesup，tothenumberoftwentyorthirty，onaricketylittlego—carthauledbyadonkeynotmuchbiggerthanacat，andtheydriveintheChiaja;Dukesandbankers，insumptuouscarriagesandwithgorgeousdriversandfootmen，turnout，also，andsothefuriousprocessiongoes。Fortwohoursrankandwealth，andobscurityandpovertyclatteralongsidebysideinthewildprocession，andthengohomeserene，happy，coveredwithglory！

IwaslookingatamagnificentmarblestaircaseintheKing\'spalace，theotherday，which，itwassaid，costfivemillionfrancs，andIsupposeitdidcosthalfamillion，maybe。Ifeltasifitmustbeafinethingtoliveinacountrywheretherewassuchcomfortandsuchluxuryasthis。

AndthenIsteppedoutmusing，andalmostwalkedoveravagabondwhowaseatinghisdinneronthecurbstone——apieceofbreadandabunchofgrapes。

WhenIfoundthatthismustangwasclerkinginafruitestablishment（hehadtheestablishmentalongwithhiminabasket，）attwocentsaday，andthathehadnopalaceathomewherehelived，IlostsomeofmyenthusiasmconcerningthehappinessoflivinginItaly。

Thisnaturallysuggeststomeathoughtaboutwageshere。Lieutenantsinthearmygetaboutadollaraday，andcommonsoldiersacoupleofcents。

Ionlyknowoneclerk——hegetsfourdollarsamonth。Printersgetsixdollarsandahalfamonth，butIhaveheardofaforemanwhogetsthirteen。

Tobegrowingsuddenlyandviolentlyrich，asthismanis，naturallymakeshimabloatedaristocrat。Theairsheputsonareinsufferable。

And，speakingofwages，remindsmeofpricesofmerchandise。InParisyoupaytwelvedollarsadozenforJouvin\'sbestkidgloves;glovesofaboutasgoodqualitysellhereatthreeorfourdollarsadozen。YoupayfiveandsixdollarsapieceforfinelinenshirtsinParis;hereandinLeghornyoupaytwoandahalf。InMarseillesyoupayfortydollarsforafirst—classdresscoatmadebyagoodtailor，butinLeghornyoucangetafulldresssuitforthesamemoney。Hereyougethandsomebusinesssuitsatfromtentotwentydollars，andinLeghornyoucangetanovercoatforfifteendollarsthatwouldcostyouseventyinNewYork。FinekidbootsarewortheightdollarsinMarseillesandfourdollarshere。LyonsvelvetsrankhigherinAmericathanthoseofGenoa。YetthebulkofLyonsvelvetsyoubuyintheStatesaremadeinGenoaandimportedintoLyons，wheretheyreceivetheLyonsstampandarethenexportedtoAmerica。YoucanbuyenoughvelvetinGenoafortwenty—fivedollarstomakeafivehundreddollarcloakinNewYork——sotheladiestellme。Ofcoursethesethingsbringmeback，byanaturalandeasytransition，totheASCENTOFVESUVIUS——CONTINUED。

AndthusthewonderfulBlueGrottoissuggestedtome。ItissituatedontheIslandofCapri，twenty—twomilesfromNaples。Wecharteredalittlesteamerandwentoutthere。Ofcourse，thepoliceboardedusandputusthroughahealthexamination，andinquiredintoourpolitics，beforetheywouldletusland。TheairstheselittleinsectGovernmentsputonareinthelastdegreeridiculous。TheyevenputapolicemanonboardofourboattokeepaneyeonusaslongaswewereintheCapridominions。Theythoughtwewantedtostealthegrotto，Isuppose。Itwasworthstealing。

Theentrancetothecaveisfourfeethighandfourfeetwide，andisinthefaceofaloftyperpendicularcliff——thesea—wall。Youenterinsmallboats——andatightsqueezeitis，too。Youcannotgoinatallwhenthetideisup。Oncewithin，youfindyourselfinanarchedcavernaboutonehundredandsixtyfeetlong，onehundredandtwentywide，andaboutseventyhigh。Howdeepitisnomanknows。Itgoesdowntothebottomoftheocean。Thewatersofthisplacidsubterraneanlakearethebrightest，loveliestbluethatcanbeimagined。Theyareastransparentasplateglass，andtheircoloringwouldshametherichestskythateverbentoverItaly。