第12章

Buthemakesallhiscalculationswiththenicestprecision，andgoesdartinginandoutamongaBroadwayconfusionofbusycraftwiththeeasyconfidenceoftheeducatedhackman。Henevermakesamistake。

Sometimeswegoflyingdownthegreatcanalsatsuchagaitthatwecangetonlythemerestglimpsesintofrontdoors，andagain，inobscurealleysinthesuburbs，weputonasolemnitysuitedtothesilence，themildew，thestagnantwaters，theclingingweeds，thedesertedhousesandthegenerallifelessnessoftheplace，andmovetothespiritofgravemeditation。

Thegondolierisapicturesquerascalforallhewearsnosatinharness，noplumedbonnet，nosilkentights。Hisattitudeisstately;heislitheandsupple;allhismovementsarefullofgrace。Whenhislongcanoe，andhisfinefigure，toweringfromitshighperchonthestern，arecutagainsttheeveningsky，theymakeapicturethatisverynovelandstrikingtoaforeigneye。

Wesitinthecushionedcarriage—bodyofacabin，withthecurtainsdrawn，andsmoke，orread，orlookoutuponthepassingboats，thehouses，thebridges，thepeople，andenjoyourselvesmuchmorethanwecouldinabuggyjoltingoverourcobble—stonepavementsathome。Thisisthegentlest，pleasantestlocomotionwehaveeverknown。

Butitseemsqueer——eversoqueer——toseeaboatdoingdutyasaprivatecarriage。Weseebusinessmencometothefrontdoor，stepintoagondola，insteadofastreetcar，andgooffdowntowntothecounting—room。

Weseevisitingyoungladiesstandonthestoop，andlaugh，andkissgood—bye，andflirttheirfansandsay"Comesoon——nowdo——you\'vebeenjustasmeanaseveryoucanbe——mother\'sdyingtoseeyou——andwe\'vemovedintothenewhouse，Osuchaloveofaplace！——soconvenienttothepostofficeandthechurch，andtheYoungMen\'sChristianAssociation;

andwedohavesuchfishing，andsuchcarryingon，andsuchswimming—matchesinthebackyard——Oh，youmustcome——nodistanceatall，andifyougodownthroughbySt。Mark\'sandtheBridgeofSighs，andcutthroughthealleyandcomeupbythechurchofSantaMariadeiFrari，andintotheGrandCanal，thereisn\'tabitofcurrent——nowdocome，SallyMaria——by—bye！"andthenthelittlehumbugtripsdownthesteps，jumpsintothegondola，says，underherbreath，"Disagreeableoldthing，Ihopeshewon\'t！"goesskimmingaway，roundthecorner;andtheothergirlslamsthestreetdoorandsays，"Well，thatinfliction\'sover，anyway，——butIsupposeI\'vegottogoandseeher——tiresomestuck—upthing！"Humannatureappearstobejustthesame，allovertheworld。Weseethediffidentyoungman，mildofmoustache，affluentofhair，indigentofbrain，elegantofcostume，driveuptoherfather\'smansion，tellhishackmantobailoutandwait，startfearfullyupthestepsandmeet"theoldgentleman"rightonthethreshold！——hearhimaskwhatstreetthenewBritishBankisin——asifthatwerewhathecamefor——andthenbounceintohisboatandskurryawaywithhiscowardheartinhisboots！——seehimcomesneakingaroundthecorneragain，directly，withacrackofthecurtainopentowardtheoldgentleman\'sdisappearinggondola，andoutscampershisSusanwithaflockoflittleItalianendearmentsflutteringfromherlips，andgoestodrivewithhiminthewateryavenuesdowntowardtheRialto。

Weseetheladiesgooutshopping，inthemostnaturalway，andflitfromstreettostreetandfromstoretostore，justinthegoodoldfashion，exceptthattheyleavethegondola，insteadofaprivatecarriage，waitingatthecurbstoneacoupleofhoursforthem，——waitingwhiletheymaketheniceyoungclerkspulldowntonsandtonsofsilksandvelvetsandmoireantiquesandthosethings;andthentheybuyapaperofpinsandgopaddlingawaytoconfertherestoftheirdisastrouspatronageonsomeotherfirm。

Andtheyalwayshavetheirpurchasessenthomejustinthegoodoldway。

Humannatureisverymuchthesameallovertheworld;anditissolikemydearnativehometoseeaVenetianladygointoastoreandbuytencents\'worthofblueribbonandhaveitsenthomeinascow。

Ah，itistheselittletouchesofnaturethatmoveonetotearsinthesefar—offforeignlands。

Weseelittlegirlsandboysgooutingondolaswiththeirnurses，foranairing。Weseestaidfamilies，withprayer—bookandbeads，enterthegondoladressedintheirSundaybest，andfloatawaytochurch。Andatmidnightweseethetheatrebreakupanddischargeitsswarmofhilariousyouthandbeauty;wehearthecriesofthehackman—gondoliers，andbeholdthestrugglingcrowdjumpaboard，andtheblackmultitudeofboatsgoskimmingdownthemoonlitavenues;weseethemseparatehereandthere，anddisappearupdivergentstreets;wehearthefaintsoundsoflaughterandofshoutedfarewellsfloatingupoutofthedistance;andthen，thestrangepageantbeinggone，wehavelonelystretchesofglitteringwater——ofstatelybuildings——ofblottingshadows——ofweirdstonefacescreepingintothemoonlight——ofdesertedbridges——ofmotionlessboatsatanchor。Andoverallbroodsthatmysteriousstillness，thatstealthyquiet，thatbefitssowellthisolddreamingVenice。

Wehavebeenprettymucheverywhereinourgondola。Wehaveboughtbeadsandphotographsinthestores，andwaxmatchesintheGreatSquareofSt。Mark。Thelastremarksuggestsadigression。Everybodygoestothisvastsquareintheevening。Themilitarybandsplayinthecentreofitandcountlesscouplesofladiesandgentlemenpromenadeupanddownoneitherside，andplatoonsofthemareconstantlydriftingawaytowardtheoldCathedral，andbythevenerablecolumnwiththeWingedLionofSt。Markonitstop，andouttowheretheboatsliemoored;andotherplatoonsareasconstantlyarrivingfromthegondolasandjoiningthegreatthrong。

Betweenthepromenadersandtheside—walksareseatedhundredsandhundredsofpeopleatsmalltables，smokingandtakinggranita，（afirstcousintoice—cream;）ontheside—walksaremoreemployingthemselvesinthesameway。Theshopsinthefirstfloorofthetallrowsofbuildingsthatwallinthreesidesofthesquarearebrilliantlylighted，theairisfilledwithmusicandmerryvoices，andaltogetherthesceneisasbrightandspiritedandfullofcheerfulnessasanymancoulddesire。Weenjoyitthoroughly。Verymanyoftheyoungwomenareexceedinglyprettyanddresswithraregoodtaste。Wearegraduallyandlaboriouslylearningtheill—mannersofstaringthemunflinchinglyintheface——notbecausesuchconductisagreeabletous，butbecauseitisthecustomofthecountryandtheysaythegirlslikeit。Wewishtolearnallthecurious，outlandishwaysofallthedifferentcountries，sothatwecan"showoff"andastonishpeoplewhenwegethome。Wewishtoexcitetheenvyofouruntraveledfriendswithourstrangeforeignfashionswhichwecan\'tshakeoff。Allourpassengersarepayingstrictattentiontothisthing，withtheendinviewwhichI

havementioned。Thegentlereaderwillnever，neverknowwhataconsummateasshecanbecome，untilhegoesabroad。Ispeaknow，ofcourse，inthesuppositionthatthegentlereaderhasnotbeenabroad，andthereforeisnotalreadyaconsummateass。Ifthecasebeotherwise，Ibeghispardonandextendtohimthecordialhandoffellowshipandcallhimbrother。

IshallalwaysdelighttomeetanassaftermyownheartwhenIshallhavefinishedmytravels。

OnthissubjectletmeremarkthatthereareAmericansabroadinItalywhohaveactuallyforgottentheirmothertongueinthreemonths——forgotitinFrance。TheycannotevenwritetheiraddressinEnglishinahotelregister。Iappendtheseevidences，whichIcopiedverbatimfromtheregisterofahotelinacertainItaliancity:"JohnP。Whitcomb，EtatsUnis。

"Wm。L。Ainsworth，travailleur（hemeanttraveler，Isuppose，）EtatsUnis。

"GeorgeP。Mortonetfils，d\'Amerique。

"LloydB。Williams，ettroisamis，villedeBoston，Amerique。

"J。EllsworthBaker，toutdesuitedeFrance，placedenaissanceAmerique，destinationlaGrandBretagne。"Ilovethissortofpeople。Aladypassengerofourstellsofafellow—citizenofherswhospenteightweeksinParisandthenreturnedhomeandaddressedhisdearestoldbosomfriendHerbertasMr。"Er—bare！"Heapologized，though，andsaid，"\'Ponmysoulitisaggravating，butIcahn\'thelpit——IhavegotsousedtospeakingnothingbutFrench，mydearErbare——dammethereitgoesagain！——gotsousedtoFrenchpronunciationthatIcahn\'tgetridofit——itispositivelyannoying，Iassureyou。"Thisentertainingidiot，whosenamewasGordon，allowedhimselftobehailedthreetimesinthestreetbeforehepaidanyattention，andthenbeggedathousandpardonsandsaidhehadgrownsoaccustomedtohearinghimselfaddressedasM\'sieuGor—r—dong，"witharolltother，thathehadforgottenthelegitimatesoundofhisname！Heworearoseinhisbutton—hole;hegavetheFrenchsalutation——twoflipsofthehandinfrontoftheface;hecalledParisPairreeinordinaryEnglishconversation;hecarriedenvelopesbearingforeignpostmarksprotrudingfromhisbreast—pocket;hecultivatedamoustacheandimperial，anddidwhatelsehecouldtosuggesttothebeholderhispetfancythatheresembledLouisNapoleon——andinaspiritofthankfulnesswhichisentirelyunaccountable，consideringtheslimfoundationtherewasforit，hepraisedhisMakerthathewasashewas，andwentonenjoyinghislittlelifejustthesameasifhereallyhadbeendeliberatelydesignedanderectedbythegreatArchitectoftheUniverse。

ThinkofourWhitcombs，andourAinsworthsandourWilliamseswritingthemselvesdownindilapidatedFrenchinforeignhotelregisters！WelaughatEnglishmen，whenweareathome，forstickingsosturdilytotheirnationalwaysandcustoms，butwelookbackuponitfromabroadveryforgivingly。

ItisnotpleasanttoseeanAmericanthrustinghisnationalityforwardobtrusivelyinaforeignland，butOh，itispitiabletoseehimmakingofhimselfathingthatisneithermalenorfemale，neitherfish，flesh，norfowl——apoor，miserable，hermaphroditeFrenchman！

Amongalonglistofchurches，artgalleries，andsuchthings，visitedbyusinVenice，Ishallmentiononlyone——thechurchofSantaMariadeiFrari。Itisaboutfivehundredyearsold，Ibelieve，andstandsontwelvehundredthousandpiles。InitliethebodyofCanovaandtheheartofTitian，undermagnificentmonuments。Titiandiedattheageofalmostonehundredyears。Aplaguewhichsweptawayfiftythousandliveswasragingatthetime，andthereisnotableevidenceofthereverenceinwhichthegreatpainterwasheld，inthefactthattohimalonethestatepermittedapublicfuneralinallthatseasonofterroranddeath。

Inthischurch，also，isamonumenttothedogeFoscari，whosenameaonceresidentofVenice，LordByron，hasmadepermanentlyfamous。

ThemonumenttothedogeGiovanniPesaro，inthischurch，isacuriosityinthewayofmortuaryadornment。Itiseightyfeethighandisfrontedlikesomefantasticpagantemple。AgainstitstandfourcolossalNubians，asblackasnight，dressedinwhitemarblegarments。Theblacklegsarebare，andthroughrentsinsleevesandbreeches，theskin，ofshinyblackmarble，shows。Theartistwasasingeniousashisfuneraldesignswereabsurd。Therearetwobronzeskeletonsbearingscrolls，andtwogreatdragonsupholdthesarcophagus。Onhigh，amidallthisgrotesqueness，sitsthedeparteddoge。

IntheconventualbuildingsattachedtothischurcharethestatearchivesofVenice。Wedidnotseethem，buttheyaresaidtonumbermillionsofdocuments。"Theyaretherecordsofcenturiesofthemostwatchful，observantandsuspiciousgovernmentthateverexisted——inwhicheverythingwaswrittendownandnothingspokenout。"Theyfillnearlythreehundredrooms。Amongthemaremanuscriptsfromthearchivesofnearlytwothousandfamilies，monasteriesandconvents。ThesecrethistoryofVeniceforathousandyearsishere——itsplots，itshiddentrials，itsassassinations，itscommissionsofhirelingspiesandmaskedbravoes——food，readytohand，foraworldofdarkandmysteriousromances。

Yes，IthinkwehaveseenallofVenice。Wehaveseen，intheseoldchurches，aprofusionofcostlyandelaboratesepulchreornamentationsuchasweneverdreamptofbefore。Wehavestoodinthedimreligiouslightofthesehoarysanctuaries，inthemidstoflongranksofdustymonumentsandeffigiesofthegreatdeadofVenice，untilweseemeddriftingback，back，back，intothesolemnpast，andlookinguponthescenesandminglingwiththepeoplesofaremoteantiquity。Wehavebeeninahalf—wakingsortofdreamallthetime。Idonotknowhowelsetodescribethefeeling。

Apartofourbeinghasremainedstillinthenineteenthcentury，whileanotherpartofithasseemedinsomeunaccountablewaywalkingamongthephantomsofthetenth。

Wehaveseenfamouspicturesuntiloureyesarewearywithlookingatthemandrefusetofindinterestinthemanylonger。Andwhatwonder，whentherearetwelvehundredpicturesbyPalmatheYoungerinVeniceandfifteenhundredbyTintoretto？AndbeholdthereareTitiansandtheworksofotherartistsinproportion。WehaveseenTitian\'scelebratedCainandAbel，hisDavidandGoliath，hisAbraham\'sSacrifice。WehaveseenTintoretto\'smonsterpicture，whichisseventy—fourfeetlongandIdonotknowhowmanyfeethigh，andthoughtitaverycommodiouspicture。Wehaveseenpicturesofmartyrsenough，andsaintsenough，toregeneratetheworld。

Ioughtnottoconfessit，butstill，sinceonehasnoopportunityinAmericatoacquireacriticaljudgmentinart，andsinceIcouldnothopetobecomeeducatedinitinEuropeinafewshortweeks，Imaythereforeaswellacknowledgewithsuchapologiesasmaybedue，thattomeitseemedthatwhenIhadseenoneofthesemartyrsIhadseenthemall。Theyallhaveamarkedfamilyresemblancetoeachother，theydressalike，incoarsemonkishrobesandsandals，theyareallbaldheaded，theyallstandinaboutthesameattitude，andwithoutexceptiontheyaregazingheavenwardwithcountenanceswhichtheAinsworths，theMortonsandtheWilliamses，etfils，informmearefullof"expression。"Tomethereisnothingtangibleabouttheseimaginaryportraits，nothingthatIcangraspandtakealivinginterestin。IfgreatTitianhadonlybeengiftedwithprophecy，andhadskippedamartyr，andgoneovertoEnglandandpaintedaportraitofShakspeare，evenasayouth，whichwecouldallhaveconfidenceinnow，theworlddowntothelatestgenerationswouldhaveforgivenhimthelostmartyrintherescuedseer。IthinkposteritycouldhavesparedonemoremartyrforthesakeofagreathistoricalpictureofTitian\'stimeandpaintedbyhisbrush——suchasColumbusreturninginchainsfromthediscoveryofaworld，forinstance。TheoldmastersdidpaintsomeVenetianhistoricalpictures，andthesewedidnottireoflookingat，notwithstandingrepresentationsoftheformalintroductionofdefunctdogestotheVirginMaryinregionsbeyondthecloudsclashedratherharshlywiththeproprieties，itseemedtous。

Buthumbleasweare，andunpretending，inthematterofart，ourresearchesamongthepaintedmonksandmartyrshavenotbeenwhollyinvain。Wehavestrivenhardtolearn。Wehavehadsomesuccess。Wehavemasteredsomethings，possiblyoftriflingimportintheeyesofthelearned，buttoustheygivepleasure，andwetakeasmuchprideinourlittleacquirementsasdootherswhohavelearnedfarmore，andwelovetodisplaythemfullaswell。Whenweseeamonkgoingaboutwithalionandlookingtranquillyuptoheaven，weknowthatthatisSt。Mark。Whenweseeamonkwithabookandapen，lookingtranquillyuptoheaven，tryingtothinkofaword，weknowthatthatisSt。Matthew。Whenweseeamonksittingonarock，lookingtranquillyuptoheaven，withahumanskullbesidehim，andwithoutotherbaggage，weknowthatthatisSt。Jerome。Becauseweknowthathealwayswentflyinglightinthematterofbaggage。Whenweseeapartylookingtranquillyuptoheaven，unconsciousthathisbodyisshotthroughandthroughwitharrows，weknowthatthatisSt。Sebastian。Whenweseeothermonkslookingtranquillyuptoheaven，buthavingnotrade—mark，wealwaysaskwhothosepartiesare。Wedothisbecausewehumblywishtolearn。WehaveseenthirteenthousandSt。Jeromes，andtwenty—twothousandSt。Marks，andsixteenthousandSt。Matthews，andsixtythousandSt。Sebastians，andfourmillionsofassortedmonks，undesignated，andwefeelencouragedtobelievethatwhenwehaveseensomemoreofthesevariouspictures，andhadalargerexperience，weshallbegintotakeanabsorbinginterestinthemlikeourcultivatedcountrymenfromAmerique。

Nowitdoesgivemerealpaintospeakinthisalmostunappreciativewayoftheoldmastersandtheirmartyrs，becausegoodfriendsofmineintheship——friendswhodothoroughlyandconscientiouslyappreciatethemandareineverywaycompetenttodiscriminatebetweengoodpicturesandinferiorones——haveurgedmeformyownsakenottomakepublicthefactthatIlackthisappreciationandthiscriticaldiscriminationmyself。

IbelievethatwhatIhavewrittenandmaystillwriteaboutpictureswillgivethempain，andIamhonestlysorryforit。IevenpromisedthatI

wouldhidemyuncouthsentimentsinmyownbreast。Butalas！Inevercouldkeepapromise。Idonotblamemyselfforthisweakness，becausethefaultmustlieinmyphysicalorganization。Itislikelythatsuchaveryliberalamountofspacewasgiventotheorganwhichenablesmetomakepromises，thattheorganwhichshouldenablemetokeepthemwascrowdedout。ButIgrievenot。Ilikenohalf—waythings。Ihadratherhaveonefacultynoblydevelopedthantwofacultiesofmereordinarycapacity。I

certainlymeanttokeepthatpromise，butIfindIcannotdoit。ItisimpossibletotravelthroughItalywithoutspeakingofpictures，andcanIseethemthroughothers\'eyes？

IfIdidnotsodelightinthegrandpicturesthatarespreadbeforemeeverydayofmylifebythatmonarchofalltheoldmasters，Nature，Ishouldcometobelieve，sometimes，thatIhadinmenoappreciationofthebeautiful，whatsoever。

ItseemstomethatwheneverIglorytothinkthatforonceIhavediscoveredanancientpaintingthatisbeautifulandworthyofallpraise，thepleasureitgivesmeisaninfallibleproofthatitisnotabeautifulpictureandnotinanywiseworthyofcommendation。ThisverythinghasoccurredmoretimesthanIcanmention，inVenice。Ineverysingleinstancetheguidehascrushedoutmyswellingenthusiasmwiththeremark:

"Itisnothing——itisoftheRenaissance。"

IdidnotknowwhatinthemischieftheRenaissancewas，andsoalwaysIhadtosimplysay，"Ah！soitis——Ihadnotobserveditbefore。"

Icouldnotbeartobeignorantbeforeacultivatednegro，theoffspringofaSouthCarolinaslave。Butitoccurredtoooftenforevenmyself—complacency，didthatexasperating"Itisnothing——itisoftheRenaissance。"Isaidatlast:

"WhoisthisRenaissance？Wheredidhecomefrom？WhogavehimpermissiontocramtheRepublicwithhisexecrabledaubs？"

Welearned，then，thatRenaissancewasnotaman;thatrenaissancewasatermusedtosignifywhatwasatbestbutanimperfectrejuvenationofart。TheguidesaidthatafterTitian\'stimeandthetimeoftheothergreatnameswehadgrownsofamiliarwith，highartdeclined;thenitpartiallyroseagain——aninferiorsortofpainterssprangup，andtheseshabbypicturesweretheworkoftheirhands。ThenIsaid，inmyheat，thatI"wishedtogoodnesshigharthaddeclinedfivehundredyearssooner。"TheRenaissancepicturessuitmeverywell，thoughsoothtosayitsschoolweretoomuchgiventopaintingrealmenanddidnotindulgeenoughinmartyrs。

TheguideIhavespokenofistheonlyonewehavehadyetwhoknewanything。HewasborninSouthCarolina，ofslaveparents。TheycametoVenicewhilehewasaninfant。Hehasgrownuphere。Heiswelleducated。

Hereads，writes，andspeaksEnglish，Italian，Spanish，andFrench，withperfectfacility;isaworshipperofartandthoroughlyconversantwithit;knowsthehistoryofVenicebyheartandnevertiresoftalkingofherillustriouscareer。Hedressesbetterthananyofus，Ithink，andisdaintilypolite。Negroesaredeemedasgoodaswhitepeople，inVenice，andsothismanfeelsnodesiretogobacktohisnativeland。Hisjudgmentiscorrect。

Ihavehadanothershave。Iwaswritinginourfrontroomthisafternoonandtryinghardtokeepmyattentiononmyworkandrefrainfromlookingoutuponthecanal。IwasresistingthesoftinfluencesoftheclimateaswellasIcould，andendeavoringtoovercomethedesiretobeindolentandhappy。Theboyssentforabarber。TheyaskedmeifIwouldbeshaved。

IremindedthemofmytorturesinGenoa，Milan，Como;ofmydeclarationthatIwouldsuffernomoreonItaliansoil。Isaid"Notanyforme，ifyouplease。"

Iwroteon。Thebarberbeganonthedoctor。Iheardhimsay:

"Dan，thisistheeasiestshaveIhavehadsincewelefttheship。"

Hesaidagain，presently:

"WhyDan，amancouldgotosleepwiththismanshavinghim。"

Dantookthechair。Thenhesaid:

"WhythisisTitian。Thisisoneoftheoldmasters。"

Iwroteon。DirectlyDansaid:

"Doctor，itisperfectluxury。Theship\'sbarberisn\'tanythingtohim。"

Myroughbeardweedistressingmebeyondmeasure。Thebarberwasrollinguphisapparatus。Thetemptationwastoostrong。Isaid:

"Holdon，please。Shavemealso。"

Isatdowninthechairandclosedmyeyes。Thebarbersoapedmyface，andthentookhisrazorandgavemearakethatwellnighthrewmeintoconvulsions。Ijumpedoutofthechair:Danandthedoctorwerebothwipingbloodofftheirfacesandlaughing。

Isaiditwasamean，disgracefulfraud。

Theysaidthatthemiseryofthisshavehadgonesofarbeyondanythingtheyhadeverexperiencedbefore，thattheycouldnotbeartheideaoflosingsuchachanceofhearingacordialopinionfrommeonthesubject。

Itwasshameful。Buttherewasnohelpforit。Theskinningwasbegunandhadtobefinished。Thetearsflowedwitheveryrake，andsodidtheferventexecrations。Thebarbergrewconfused，andbroughtbloodeverytime。Ithinktheboysenjoyeditbetterthananythingtheyhaveseenorheardsincetheylefthome。

WehaveseentheCampanile，andByron\'shouseandBalbi\'sthegeographer，andthepalacesofalltheancientdukesanddogesofVenice，andwehaveseentheireffeminatedescendantsairingtheirnobilityinfashionableFrenchattireintheGrandSquareofSt。Mark，andeatingicesanddrinkingcheapwines，insteadofwearinggallantcoatsofmailanddestroyingfleetsandarmiesastheirgreatancestorsdidinthedaysofVenetianglory。

Wehaveseennobravoeswithpoisonedstilettos，nomasks，nowildcarnival;

butwehaveseentheancientprideofVenice，thegrimBronzeHorsesthatfigureinathousandlegends。Venicemaywellcherishthem，fortheyaretheonlyhorsessheeverhad。Itissaidtherearehundredsofpeopleinthiscuriouscitywhoneverhaveseenalivinghorseintheirlives。Itisentirelytrue，nodoubt。

Andso，havingsatisfiedourselves，wedepartto—morrow，andleavethevenerableQueenoftheRepublicstosummonhervanishedships，andmarshalhershadowyarmies，andknowagainindreamstheprideofheroldrenown。

Chapter24

SomeoftheQuakerCity\'spassengershadarrivedinVenicefromSwitzerlandandotherlandsbeforeweleftthere，andotherswereexpectedeveryday。

Weheardofnocasualtiesamongthem，andnosickness。

Wewerealittlefatiguedwithsightseeing，andsowerattledthroughagooddealofcountrybyrailwithoutcaringtostop。Itookfewnotes。

IfindnomentionofBolognainmymemorandumbook，exceptthatwearrivedthereingoodseason，butsawnoneofthesausagesforwhichtheplaceissojustlycelebrated。

Pistoiaawokebutapassinginterest。

Florencepleasedusforawhile。IthinkweappreciatedthegreatfigureofDavidinthegrandsquare，andthesculpturedgrouptheycalltheRapeoftheSabines。WewanderedthroughtheendlesscollectionsofpaintingsandstatuesofthePittiandUfizzigalleries，ofcourse。Imakethatstatementinself—defense;thereletitstop。IcouldnotrestundertheimputationthatIvisitedFlorenceanddidnottraverseitswearymilesofpicturegalleries。WetriedindolentlytorecollectsomethingabouttheGuelphsandGhibelinesandtheotherhistoricalcut—throatswhosequarrelsandassassinationsmakeupsolargeashareofFlorentinehistory，butthesubjectwasnotattractive。Wehadbeenrobbedofallthefinemountainsceneryonourlittlejourneybyasystemofrailroadingthathadthreemilesoftunneltoahundredyardsofdaylight，andwewerenotinclinedtobesociablewithFlorence。Wehadseenthespot，outsidethecitysomewhere，wherethesepeoplehadallowedthebonesofGalileotorestinunconsecratedgroundforanagebecausehisgreatdiscoverythattheworldturnedaroundwasregardedasadamningheresybythechurch;andweknowthatlongaftertheworldhadacceptedhistheoryandraisedhisnamehighinthelistofitsgreatmen，theyhadstilllethimrotthere。ThatwehadlivedtoseehisdustinhonoredsepultureinthechurchofSantaCroceweowedtoasocietyofliterati，andnottoFlorenceorherrulers。WesawDanté\'stombinthatchurch，also，butweweregladtoknowthathisbodywasnotinit;thattheungratefulcitythathadexiledhimandpersecutedhimwouldgivemuchtohaveitthere，butneednothopetoeversecurethathighhonortoherself。MedicisaregoodenoughforFlorence。LetherplantMedicisandbuildgrandmonumentsoverthemtotestifyhowgratefullyshewaswonttolickthehandthatscourgedher。

MagnanimousFlorence！Herjewelrymartsarefilledwithartistsinmosaic。

Florentinemosaicsarethechoicestinalltheworld。Florencelovestohavethatsaid。Florenceisproudofit。Florencewouldfosterthisspecialtyofhers。Sheisgratefultotheartiststhatbringtoherthishighcreditandfillhercofferswithforeignmoney，andsosheencouragesthemwithpensions。Withpensions！Thinkofthelavishnessofit。Sheknowsthatpeoplewhopiecetogetherthebeautifultriflesdieearly，becausethelaborissoconfining，andsoexhaustingtohandandbrain，andsoshehasdecreedthatallthesepeoplewhoreachtheageofsixtyshallhaveapensionafterthat！Ihavenotheardthatanyofthemhavecalledfortheirdividendsyet。Onemandidfightalongtillhewassixty，andstartedafterhispension，butitappearedthattherehadbeenamistakeofayearinhisfamilyrecord，andsohegaveitupanddied。

Theseartistswilltakeparticlesofstoneorglassnolargerthanamustardseed，andpiecethemtogetheronasleevebuttonorashirtstud，sosmoothlyandwithsuchniceadjustmentofthedelicateshadesofcolorthepiecesbear，astoformapigmyrosewithstem，thorn，leaves，petalscomplete，andallassoftlyandastruthfullytintedasthoughNaturehadbuildeditherself。Theywillcounterfeitafly，orahigh—tonedbug，ortheruinedColiseum，withinthecrampedcircleofabreastpin，anddoitsodeftlyandsoneatlythatanymanmightthinkamasterpaintedit。

IsawalittletableinthegreatmosaicschoolinFlorence——alittletrifleofacentretable——whosetopwasmadeofsomesortofpreciouspolishedstone，andinthestonewasinlaidthefigureofaflute，withbell—mouthandamazycomplicationofkeys。Nopaintingintheworldcouldhavebeensofterorricher;noshadingoutofonetintintoanothercouldhavebeenmoreperfect;noworkofartofanykindcouldhavebeenmorefaultlessthanthisflute，andyettocountthemultitudeoflittlefragmentsofstoneofwhichtheysworeitwasformedwouldbankruptanyman\'sarithmetic！

Idonotthinkonecouldhaveseenwheretwoparticlesjoinedeachotherwitheyesofordinaryshrewdness。Certainlywecoulddetectnosuchblemish。Thistable—topcostthelaborofonemanfortenlongyears，sotheysaid，anditwasforsaleforthirty—fivethousanddollars。

WewenttotheChurchofSantaCroce，fromtimetotime，inFlorence，toweepoverthetombsofMichaelAngelo，RaphaelandMachiavelli，（Isupposetheyareburiedthere，butitmaybethattheyresideelsewhereandrenttheirtombstootherparties——suchbeingthefashioninItaly，）andbetweentimesweusedtogoandstandonthebridgesandadmiretheArno。ItispopulartoadmiretheArno。Itisagreathistoricalcreekwithfourfeetinthechannelandsomescowsfloatingaround。Itwouldbeaveryplausibleriveriftheywouldpumpsomewaterintoit。Theyallcallitariver，andtheyhonestlythinkitisariver，dothesedarkandbloodyFlorentines。Theyevenhelpoutthedelusionbybuildingbridgesoverit。

Idonotseewhytheyaretoogoodtowade。

Howthefatiguesandannoyancesoftravelfillonewithbitterprejudicessometimes！ImightenterFlorenceunderhappierauspicesamonthhenceandfinditallbeautiful，allattractive。ButIdonotcaretothinkofitnow，atall，norofitsroomyshopsfilledtotheceilingwithsnowymarbleandalabastercopiesofallthecelebratedsculpturesinEurope——copiessoenchantingtotheeyethatIwonderhowtheycanreallybeshapedlikethedingypetrifiednightmarestheyaretheportraitsof。IgotlostinFlorenceatnineo\'clock，onenight，andstaidlostinthatlabyrinthofnarrowstreetsandlongrowsofvastbuildingsthatlookallalike，untiltowardthreeo\'clockinthemorning。Itwasapleasantnightandatfirsttherewereagoodmanypeopleabroad，andtherewerecheerfullightsabout。

Later，Igrewaccustomedtoprowlingaboutmysteriousdriftsandtunnelsandastonishingandinterestingmyselfwithcomingaroundcornersexpectingtofindthehotelstaringmeintheface，andnotfindingitdoinganythingofthekind。Laterstill，Ifelttired。Isoonfeltremarkablytired。

Buttherewasnooneabroad，now——notevenapoliceman。IwalkedtillI

wasoutofallpatience，andveryhotandthirsty。Atlast，somewhereafteroneo\'clock，Icameunexpectedlytooneofthecitygates。IknewthenthatIwasveryfarfromthehotel。ThesoldiersthoughtIwantedtoleavethecity，andtheysprangupandbarredthewaywiththeirmuskets。Isaid:

"Hoteld\'Europe！"

ItwasalltheItalianIknew，andIwasnotcertainwhetherthatwasItalianorFrench。Thesoldierslookedstupidlyateachotherandatme，andshooktheirheadsandtookmeintocustody。IsaidIwantedtogohome。