第4章

Iwastoomuchflatteredtomakeanexposureandthrowthemerchandiseontheangel\'shands。Iwashot，vexed，confused，butstillhappy;butIhatedtheotherboysfortakingsuchanabsorbinginterestintheproceedings。

IwishedtheywereinJericho。IfeltexquisitelymeanwhenIsaidcheerfully:

"Thisonedoesverywell;itfitselegantly。Ilikeaglovethatfits。

No，nevermind，ma\'am，nevermind;I\'llputtheotheroninthestreet。

Itiswarmhere。"

Itwaswarm。ItwasthewarmestplaceIeverwasin。Ipaidthebill，andasIpassedoutwithafascinatingbowIthoughtIdetectedalightinthewoman\'seyethatwasgentlyironical;andwhenIlookedbackfromthestreet，andshewaslaughingalltoherselfaboutsomethingorother，Isaidtomyselfwithwitheringsarcasm，"Oh，certainly;youknowhowtoputonkidgloves，don\'tyou？Aself—complacentass，readytobeflatteredoutofyoursensesbyeverypetticoatthatchoosestotakethetroubletodoit！"

Thesilenceoftheboysannoyedme。FinallyDansaidmusingly:

"Somegentlemendon\'tknowhowtoputonkidglovesatall，butsomedo。"

Andthedoctorsaid（tothemoon，Ithought）:

"Butitisalwayseasytotellwhenagentlemanisusedtoputtingonkidgloves。"

Dansoliloquizedafterapause:

"Ah，yes;thereisagraceaboutitthatonlycomeswithlong，verylongpractice。"

"Yes，indeed，I\'venoticedthatwhenamanhaulsonakidglovelikehewasdraggingacatoutofanashholebythetail，heunderstandsputtingonkidgloves;he\'shadex————"

"Boys，enoughofathing\'senough！Youthinkyouareverysmart，Isuppose，butIdon\'t。Andifyougoandtellanyofthoseoldgossipsintheshipaboutthisthing，I\'llneverforgiveyouforit;that\'sall。"

Theyletmealonethenforthetimebeing。Wealwaysleteachotheraloneintimetopreventillfeelingfromspoilingajoke。Buttheyhadboughtgloves，too，asIdid。Wethrewallthepurchasesawaytogetherthismorning。Theywerecoarse，unsubstantial，freckledalloverwithbroadyellowsplotches，andcouldneitherstandwearnorpublicexhibition。Wehadentertainedanangelunawares，butwedidnottakeherin。Shedidthatforus。

Tangier！AtribeofstalwartMoorsarewadingintotheseatocarryusashoreontheirbacksfromthesmallboats。

Chapter8

Thisisroyal！LetthosewhowentupthroughSpainmakethebestofit——thesedominionsoftheEmperorofMoroccosuitourlittlepartywellenough。WehavehadenoughofSpainatGibraltarforthepresent。Tangieristhespotwehavebeenlongingforallthetime。Elsewherewehavefoundforeign—lookingthingsandforeign—lookingpeople，butalwayswiththingsandpeopleintermixedthatwewerefamiliarwithbefore，andsothenoveltyofthesituationlostadealofitsforce。Wewantedsomethingthoroughlyanduncompromisinglyforeign——foreignfromtoptobottom——foreignfromcentertocircumference——foreigninsideandoutsideandallaround——nothinganywhereaboutittodiluteitsforeignness——nothingtoremindusofanyotherpeopleoranyotherlandunderthesun。Andlo！InTangierwehavefoundit。Hereisnottheslightestthingthateverwehaveseensaveinpictures——andwealwaysmistrustedthepicturesbefore。Wecannotanymore。

Thepicturesusedtoseemexaggerations——theyseemedtooweirdandfancifulforreality。Butbehold，theywerenotwildenough——theywerenotfancifulenough——theyhavenottoldhalfthestory。Tangierisaforeignlandifevertherewasone，andthetruespiritofitcanneverbefoundinanybooksaveTheArabianNights。Herearenowhitemenvisible，yetswarmsofhumanityareallaboutus。Hereisapackedandjammedcityenclosedinamassivestonewallwhichismorethanathousandyearsold。Allthehousesnearlyareone—andtwo—story，madeofthickwallsofstone，plasteredoutside，squareasadry。goodsbox，flatasafloorontop，nocornices，whitewashedallover——acrowdedcityofsnowytombs！AndthedoorsarearchedwiththepeculiararchweseeinMoorishpictures;thefloorsarelaidinvaricoloreddiamondflags;intessellated，many—coloredporcelainsquareswroughtinthefurnacesofFez;inredtilesandbroadbricksthattimecannotwear;thereisnofurnitureintherooms（ofJewishdwellings）

savedivans——whatthereisinMoorishonesnomanmayknow;withintheirsacredwallsnoChristiandogcanenter。Andthestreetsareoriental——someofthemthreefeetwide，somesix，butonlytwothatareoveradozen;

amancanblockadethemostofthembyextendinghisbodyacrossthem。

Isn\'titanorientalpicture？

TherearestalwartBedouinsofthedeserthere，andstatelyMoorsproudofahistorythatgoesbacktothenightoftime;andJewswhosefathersfledhithercenturiesuponcenturiesago;andswarthyRiffiansfromthemountains——borncutthroats——andoriginal，genuineNegroesasblackasMoses;

andhowlingdervishesandahundredbreedsofArabs——ansortsanddescriptionsofpeoplethatareforeignandcurioustolookupon。

Andtheirdressesarestrangebeyondalldescription。HereisabronzedMoorinaprodigiouswhiteturban，curiouslyembroideredjacket，goldandcrimsonsash，ofmanyfolds，wrappedroundandroundhiswaist，trousersthatonlycomealittlebelowhiskneeandyethavetwentyyardsofstuffinthem，ornamentedscimitar，bareshins，stockinglessfeet，yellowslippers，andgunofpreposterouslength——ameresoldier！——IthoughthewastheEmperoratleast。AndhereareagedMoorswithflowingwhitebeardsandlongwhiterobeswithvastcowls;andBedouinswithlong，cowled，stripedcloaks;

andNegroesandRiffianswithheadsclean—shavenexceptakinkyscalplockbackoftheearor，rather，upontheaftercorneroftheskull;andallsortsofbarbariansinallsortsofweirdcostumes，andallmoreorlessragged。AndhereareMoorishwomenwhoareenvelopedfromheadtofootincoarsewhiterobes，andwhosesexcanonlybedeterminedbythefactthattheyonlyleaveoneeyevisibleandneverlookatmenoftheirownrace，orarelookedatbytheminpublic。HerearefivethousandJewsinbluegabardines，sashesabouttheirwaists，slippersupontheirfeet，littleskullcapsuponthebacksoftheirheads，haircombeddownontheforehead，andcutstraightacrossthemiddleofitfromsidetoside——theselfsamefashiontheirTangierancestorshavewornforIdon\'tknowhowmanybewilderingcenturies。Theirfeetandanklesarebare。Theirnosesareallhooked，andhookedalike。Theyallresembleeachothersomuchthatonecouldalmostbelievetheywereofonefamily。Theirwomenareplumpandpretty，anddosmileuponaChristianinawaywhichisinthelastdegreecomforting。

Whatafunnyoldtownitis！Itseemslikeprofanationtolaughandjestandbandythefrivolouschatofourdayamiditshoaryrelics。OnlythestatelyphraseologyandthemeasuredspeechofthesonsoftheProphetaresuitedtoavenerableantiquitylikethis。HereisacrumblingwallthatwasoldwhenColumbusdiscoveredAmerica;wasoldwhenPetertheHermitrousedtheknightlymenoftheMiddleAgestoarmforthefirstCrusade;

wasoldwhenCharlemagneandhispaladinsbeleagueredenchantedcastlesandbattledwithgiantsandgeniiinthefableddaysoftheoldentime;

wasoldwhenChristandhisdiscipleswalkedtheearth;stoodwhereitstandstodaywhenthelipsofMemnonwerevocalandmenboughtandsoldinthestreetsofancientThebes！

ThePhoenicians，theCarthagenians，theEnglish，Moors，Romans，allhavebattledforTangier——allhavewonitandlostit。Hereisaragged，oriental—lookingNegrofromsomedesertplaceininteriorAfrica，fillinghisgoatskinwithwaterfromastainedandbatteredfountainbuiltbytheRomanstwelvehundredyearsago。YonderisaruinedarchofabridgebuiltbyJuliusCaesarnineteenhundredyearsago。MenwhohadseentheinfantSaviourintheVirgin\'sarmshavestooduponit，maybe。

NearitaretheruinsofadockyardwhereCaesarrepairedhisshipsandloadedthemwithgrainwhenheinvadedBritain，fiftyyearsbeforetheChristianera。

Here，underthequietstars，theseoldstreetsseemthrongedwiththephantomsofforgottenages。MyeyesarerestinguponaspotwherestoodamonumentwhichwasseenanddescribedbyRomanhistorianslessthantwothousandyearsago，whereonwasinscribed:WEARETHECANAANITES。WEARETHEYTHATHAVEBEENDRIVENOUT

OFTHELANDOFCANAANBYTHEJEWISHROBBER，JOSHUA。Joshuadrovethemout，andtheycamehere。NotmanyleaguesfromhereisatribeofJewswhoseancestorsfledthitherafteranunsuccessfulrevoltagainstKingDavid，andthesetheirdescendantsarestillunderabanandkeeptothemselves。

Tangierhasbeenmentionedinhistoryforthreethousandyears。Anditwasatown，thoughaqueerone，whenHercules，cladinhislionskin，landedhere，fourthousandyearsago。InthesestreetshemetAnitus，thekingofthecountry，andbrainedhimwithhisclub，whichwasthefashionamonggentlemeninthosedays。ThepeopleofTangier（calledTingisthen）

livedintherudestpossiblehutsanddressedinskinsandcarriedclubs，andwereassavageasthewildbeaststheywereconstantlyobligedtowarwith。Buttheywereagentlemanlyraceanddidnowork。Theylivedonthenaturalproductsoftheland。Theirking\'scountryresidencewasatthefamousGardenofHesperides，seventymilesdown\'thecoastfromhere。

Thegarden，withitsgoldenapples（oranges），isgonenow——novestigeofitremains。AntiquariansconcedethatsuchapersonageasHerculesdidexistinancienttimesandagreethathewasanenterprisingandenergeticman，butdeclinetobelievehimagood，bona—fidegod，becausethatwouldbeunconstitutional。

DownhereatCapeSpartelisthecelebratedcaveofHercules，wherethatherotookrefugewhenhewasvanquishedanddrivenoutoftheTangiercountry。Itisfullofinscriptionsinthedeadlanguages，whichfactmakesmethinkHerculescouldnothavetraveledmuch，elsehewouldnothavekeptajournal。

Fivedays\'journeyfromhere——saytwohundredmiles——aretheruinsofanancientcity，ofwhosehistorythereisneitherrecordnortradition。

Andyetitsarches，itscolumns，anditsstatuesproclaimittohavebeenbuiltbyanenlightenedrace。

ThegeneralsizeofastoreinTangierisaboutthatofanordinaryshowerbathinacivilizedland。TheMuhammadanmerchant，tinman，shoemaker，orvendoroftriflessitscross—leggedonthefloorandreachesafteranyarticleyoumaywanttobuy。Youcanrentawholeblockofthesepigeonholesforfiftydollarsamonth。Themarketpeoplecrowdthemarketplacewiththeirbasketsoffigs，dates，melons，apricots，etc。，andamongthemfiletrainsofladenasses，notmuchlarger，ifany，thanaNewfoundlanddog。

Thesceneislively，ispicturesque，andsmellslikeapolicecourt。TheJewishmoney—changershavetheirdenscloseathand，andalldaylongarecountingbronzecoinsandtransferringthemfromonebushelbaskettoanother。

Theydon\'tcoinmuchmoneynowadays，Ithink。Isawnonebutwhatwasdatedfourorfivehundredyearsback，andwasbadlywornandbattered。Thesecoinsarenotveryvaluable。Jackwentouttogetanapoleonchanged，soastohavemoneysuitedtothegeneralcheapnessofthings，andcamebackandsaidhebad"swampedthebank，hadboughtelevenquartsofcoin，andtheheadofthefirmhadgoneonthestreettonegotiateforthebalanceofthechange。"Iboughtnearlyhalfapintoftheirmoneyforashillingmyself。Iamnotproudonaccountofhavingsomuchmoney，though。Icarenothingforwealth。

TheMoorshavesomesmallsilvercoinsandalsosomesilverslugsworthadollareach。Thelatterareexceedinglyscarce——somuchsothatwhenpoorraggedArabsseeonetheybegtobeallowedtokissit。

Theyhavealsoasmallgoldcoinworthtwodollars。Andthatremindsmeofsomething。WhenMoroccoisinastateofwar，Arabcourierscarrylettersthroughthecountryandchargealiberalpostage。Everynowandthentheyfallintothehandsofmaraudingbandsandgetrobbed。Therefore，warnedbyexperience，assoonastheyhavecollectedtwodollars\'worthofmoneytheyexchangeitforoneofthoselittlegoldpieces，andwhenrobberscomeuponthem，swallowit。Thestratagemwasgoodwhileitwasunsuspected，butafterthatthemarauderssimplygavethesagaciousUnitedStatesmailanemeticandsatdowntowait。

TheEmperorofMoroccoisasoullessdespot，andthegreatofficersunderhimaredespotsonasmallerscale。Thereisnoregularsystemoftaxation，butwhentheEmperorortheBashawwantmoney，theylevyonsomerichman，andhehastofurnishthecashorgotoprison。Therefore，fewmeninMoroccodaretoberich。Itistoodangerousaluxury。Vanityoccasionallyleadsamantodisplaywealth，butsoonerorlatertheEmperortrumpsupachargeagainsthim——anysortofonewilldo——andconfiscateshisproperty。

Ofcourse，therearemanyrichmenintheempire，buttheirmoneyisburied，andtheydressinragsandcounterfeitpoverty。EverynowandthentheEmperorimprisonsamanwhoissuspectedofthecrimeofbeingrich，andmakesthingssouncomfortableforhimthatheisforcedtodiscoverwherehehashiddenhismoney。

MoorsandJewssometimesplacethemselvesundertheprotectionoftheforeignconsuls，andthentheycanflouttheirrichesintheEmperor\'sfacewithimpunity。

Chapter9

Aboutthefirstadventurewehadyesterdayafternoon，afterlandinghere，camenearfinishingthatheedlessBlucher。Wehadjustmountedsomemulesandassesandstartedoutundertheguardianshipofthestately，theprincely，themagnificentHadjiMuhammadLamarty（mayhistribeincrease！）

whenwecameuponafineMoorishmosque，withtalltower，richwithcheckerworkofmany—coloredporcelain，andeverypartandportionoftheedificeadornedwiththequaintarchitectureoftheAlhambra，andBlucherstartedtorideintotheopendoorway。Astartling"Hi—hi！"fromourcampfollowersandaloud"Halt！"fromanEnglishgentlemaninthepartycheckedtheadventurer，andthenwewereinformedthatsodireaprofanationisitforaChristiandogtosetfootuponthesacredthresholdofaMoorishmosquethatnoamountofpurificationcanevermakeitfitforthefaithfultoprayinagain。

HadBluchersucceededinenteringtheplace，hewouldnodoubthavebeenchasedthroughthetownandstoned;andthetimehasbeen，andnotmanyyearsago，either，whenaChristianwouldhavebeenmostruthlesslyslaughteredifcapturedinamosque。Wecaughtaglimpseofthehandsometessellatedpavementswithinandofthedevoteesperformingtheirablutionsatthefountains，buteventhatwetookthatglimpsewasathingnotrelishedbytheMoorishbystanders。

Someyearsagotheclockinthetowerofthemosquegotoutoforder。

TheMoorsofTangierhavesodegeneratedthatithasbeenlongsincetherewasanartificeramongthemcapableofcuringsodelicateapatientasadebilitatedclock。Thegreatmenofthecitymetinsolemnconclavetoconsiderhowthedifficultywastobemet。Theydiscussedthematterthoroughlybutarrivedatnosolution。Finally，apatriarcharoseandsaid:

"Oh，childrenoftheProphet，itisknownuntoyouthataPortugueedogofaChristianclockmenderpollutesthecityofTangierwithhispresence。

Yeknow，also，thatwhenmosquesarebuilded，assesbearthestonesandthecement，andcrossthesacredthreshold。Now，therefore，sendtheChristiandogonallfours，andbarefoot，intotheholyplacetomendtheclock，andlethimgoasanass！"

Andinthatwayitwasdone。Therefore，ifBluchereverseestheinsideofamosque，hewillhavetocastasidehishumanityandgoinhisnaturalcharacter。WevisitedthejailandfoundMoorishprisonersmakingmatsandbaskets。（Thisthingofutilizingcrimesavorsofcivilization。）Murderispunishedwithdeath。Ashorttimeagothreemurderersweretakenbeyondthecitywallsandshot。Moorishgunsarenotgood，andneitherareMoorishmarksmen。Inthisinstancetheysetupthepoorcriminalsatlongrange，likesomanytargets，andpracticedonthem——keptthemhoppingaboutanddodgingbulletsforhalfanhourbeforetheymanagedtodrivethecenter。

Whenamanstealscattle，theycutoffhisrighthandandleftlegandnailthemupinthemarketplaceasawarningtoeverybody。Theirsurgeryisnotartistic。Theyslicearoundthebonealittle，thenbreakoffthelimb。Sometimesthepatientgetswell;but，asageneralthing，hedon\'t。

However，theMoorishheartisstout。TheMoorswerealwaysbrave。Thesecriminalsundergothefearfuloperationwithoutawince，withoutatremorofanykind，withoutagroan！NoamountofsufferingcanbringdowntheprideofaMoorormakehimshamehisdignitywithacry。

Here，marriageiscontractedbytheparentsofthepartiestoit。Therearenovalentines，nostoleninterviews，noridingout，nocourtingindimparlors，nolovers\'quarrelsandreconciliations——nonothingthatispropertoapproachingmatrimony。Theyoungmantakesthegirlhisfatherselectsforhim，marriesher，andafterthatsheisunveiled，andheseesherforthefirsttime。Ifafterdueacquaintanceshesuitshim，heretainsher;butifhesuspectsherpurity，hebundlesherbacktoherfather;

ifhefindsherdiseased，thesame;orif，afterjustandreasonabletimeisallowedher，sheneglectstobearchildren，backshegoestothehomeofherchildhood。

Muhammadansherewhocanafforditkeepagoodmanywivesonhand。Theyarecalledwives，thoughIbelievetheKoranonlyallowsfourgenuinewives——therestareconcubines。TheEmperorofMoroccodon\'tknowhowmanywiveshehas，butthinkshehasfivehundred。However，thatisnearenough——adozenorso，onewayortheother，don\'tmatter。

EventheJewsintheinteriorhaveapluralityofwives。

IhavecaughtaglimpseofthefacesofseveralMoorishwomen（fortheyareonlyhuman，andwillexposetheirfacesfortheadmirationofaChristiandogwhennomaleMoorisby），andIamfullofvenerationforthewisdomthatleadsthemtocoverupsuchatrociousugliness。

Theycarrytheirchildrenattheirbacks，inasack，likeothersavagestheworldover。

ManyoftheNegroesareheldinslaverybytheMoors。Butthemomentafemaleslavebecomeshermaster\'sconcubineherbondsarebroken，andassoonasamaleslavecanreadthefirstchapteroftheKoran（whichcontainsthecreed）hecannolongerbeheldinbondage。

TheyhavethreeSundaysaweekinTangier。TheMuhammadans\'comesonFriday，theJews\'onSaturday，andthatoftheChristianConsulsonSunday。

TheJewsarethemostradical。TheMoorgoestohismosqueaboutnoononhisSabbath，asonanyotherday，removeshisshoesatthedoor，performshisablutions，makeshissalaams，pressinghisforeheadtothepavementtimeandagain，sayshisprayers，andgoesbacktohiswork。

ButtheJewshutsupshop;willnottouchcopperorbronzemoneyatall;soilshisfingerswithnothingmeanerthansilverandgold;attendsthesynagoguedevoutly;willnotcookorhaveanythingtodowithfire;

andreligiouslyrefrainsfromembarkinginanyenterprise。

TheMoorwhohasmadeapilgrimagetoMeccaisentitledtohighdistinction。

MencallhimHadji，andheisthenceforwardagreatpersonage。HundredsofMoorscometoTangiereveryyearandembarkforMecca。TheygopartofthewayinEnglishsteamers，andthetenortwelvedollarstheypayforpassageisaboutallthetripcosts。Theytakewiththemaquantityoffood，andwhenthecommissarydepartmentfailsthey"skirmish，"asJacktermsitinhissinful，slangyway。Fromthetimetheyleavetilltheygethomeagain。，theyneverwash，eitheronlandorsea。Theyareusuallygonefromfivetosevenmonths，andastheydonotchangetheirclothesduringallthattime，theyaretotallyunfitforthedrawingroomwhentheygetback。

Manyofthemhavetorakeandscrapealongtimetogathertogetherthetendollarstheirsteamerpassagecosts，andwhenoneofthemgetsbackbeisabankruptforeverafter。FewMoorscaneverbuilduptheirfortunesagaininoneshortlifetimeaftersorecklessanoutlay。InordertoconfinethedignityofHadjitogentlemenofpatricianbloodandpossessions，theEmperordecreedthatnomanshouldmakethepilgrimagesavebloatedaristocratswhowereworthahundreddollarsinspecie。Butbeholdhowiniquitycancircumventthelaw！Foraconsideration，theJewishmoneychangerlendsthepilgrimonehundreddollarslongenoughforhimtoswearhimselfthrough，andthenreceivesitbackbeforetheshipsailsoutoftheharbor！

SpainistheonlynationtheMoorsfear。ThereasonisthatSpainsendsherheaviestshipsofwarandherloudestgunstoastonishtheseMuslims，whileAmericaandothernationssendonlyalittlecontemptibletubofagunboatoccasionally。TheMoors，likeothersavages，learnbywhattheysee，notwhattheyhearorread。WehavegreatfleetsintheMediterranean，buttheyseldomtouchatAfricanports。TheMoorshaveasmallopinionofEngland，France，andAmerica，andputtheirrepresentativestoadealofred—tapecircumlocutionbeforetheygrantthemtheircommonrights，letaloneafavor。ButthemomenttheSpanishministermakesademand，itisaccededtoatonce，whetheritbejustornot。

SpainchastisedtheMoorsfiveorsixyearsago，aboutadisputedpieceofpropertyoppositeGibraltar，andcapturedthecityofTetuán。

Shecompromisedonanaugmentationofherterritory，twentymilliondollars\'

indemnityinmoney，andpeace。Andthenshegaveupthecity。ButshenevergaveitupuntiltheSpanishsoldiershadeatenupallthecats。Theywouldnotcompromiseaslongasthecatsheldout。Spaniardsareveryfondofcats。Onthecontrary，theMoorsreverencecatsassomethingsacred。SotheSpaniardstouchedthemonatenderpointthattime。TheirunfelineconductineatingupalltheTetuáncatsarousedahatredtowardtheminthebreastsoftheMoors，towhicheventhedrivingthemoutofSpainwastameandpassionless。MoorsandSpaniardsarefoesforevernow。

Francehadaministerhereoncewhoembitteredthenationagainsthiminthemostinnocentway。Hekilledacoupleofbattalionsofcats（Tangierisfullofthem）andmadeaparlorcarpetoutoftheirhides。Hemadehiscarpetincircles——firstacircleofoldgraytomcats，withtheirtailsallpointingtowardthecenter;thenacircleofyellowcats;nextacircleofblackcatsandacircleofwhiteones;thenacircleofallsortsofcats;and，finally，acenterpieceofassortedkittens。Itwasverybeautiful，buttheMoorscursehismemorytothisday。

WhenwewenttocallonourAmericanConsulGeneraltodayInoticedthatallpossiblegamesforparloramusementseemedtoberepresentedonhiscentertables。Ithoughtthathintedatlonesomeness。Theideawascorrect。HisistheonlyAmericanfamilyinTangier。Therearemanyforeignconsulsinthisplace，butmuchvisitingisnotindulgedin。Tangierisclearoutoftheworld，andwhatistheuseofvisitingwhenpeoplehavenothingonearthtotalkabout？Thereisnone。Soeachconsul\'sfamilystaysathomechieflyandamusesitselfasbestitcan。Tangierisfullofinterestforoneday，butafterthatitisawearyprison。TheConsulGeneralhasbeenherefiveyears，andhasgotenoughofittodohimforacentury，andisgoinghomeshortly。Hisfamilyseizeupontheirlettersandpaperswhenthemailarrives，readthemoverandoveragainfortwodaysorthree，talkthemoverandoveragainfortwoorthreemoretilltheywearthemout，andafterthatfordaystogethertheyeatanddrinkandsleep，andrideoutoverthesameoldroad，andseethesameoldtiresomethingsthatevendecadesofcenturieshavescarcelychanged，andsayneverasingleword！Theyhaveliterallynothingwhatevertotalkabout。ThearrivalofanAmericanman—of—warisagodsendtothem。"OSolitude，wherearethecharmswhichsageshaveseeninthyface？"ItisthecompletestexilethatIcanconceiveof。IwouldseriouslyrecommendtothegovernmentoftheUnitedStatesthatwhenamancommitsacrimesoheinousthatthelawprovidesnoadequatepunishmentforit，theymakehimConsulGeneraltoTangier。

IamgladtohaveseenTangier——thesecond—oldesttownintheworld。

ButIamreadytobiditgood—bye，Ibelieve。

WeshallgohencetoGibraltarthiseveningorinthemorning，anddoubtlesstheQuakerCitywillsailfromthatportwithinthenextforty—eighthours。

Chapter10

WepassedtheFourthofJulyonboardtheQuakerCity，inmidocean。

ItwasinallrespectsacharacteristicMediterraneanday——faultlesslybeautiful。Acloudlesssky;arefreshingsummerwind;aradiantsunshinethatglintedcheerilyfromdancingwaveletsinsteadofcrestedmountainsofwater;aseabeneathusthatwassowonderfullyblue，sorichly，brilliantlyblue，thatitovercamethedullestsensibilitieswiththespellofitsfascination。

TheyevenhavefinesunsetsontheMediterranean——athingthatiscertainlyrareinmostquartersoftheglobe。TheeveningwesailedawayfromGibraltar，thathard—featuredrockwasswimminginacreamymistsorich，sosoft，soenchantinglyvagueanddreamy，thateventheOracle，thatserene，thatinspired，thatoverpoweringhumbug，scornedthedinnergongandtarriedtoworship！

Hesaid:"Well，that\'sgorgis，ain\'tit！Theydon\'thavenoneofthemthingsinourparts，dothey？Iconsiderthatthemeffectsisonaccountofthesuperiorrefragability，asyoumaysay，ofthesun\'sdiramiccombinationwiththelymphaticforcesoftheperihelionofJubiter。Whatshouldyouthink？"

"Oh，gotobed！"Dansaidthatandwentaway。

"Oh，yes，it\'sallverywelltosaygotobedwhenamanmakesanargumentwhichanothermancan\'tanswer。Dandon\'tneverstandanychanceinanargumentwithme。Andheknowsit，too。Whatshouldyousay，Jack？"

"Now，Doctor，don\'tyoucomebotheringaroundmewiththatdictionarybosh。Idon\'tdoyouanyharm，doI？Thenyouletmealone。"

"He\'sgone，too。Well，themfellowshavealltackledtheoldOracle，astheysay，buttheoldman\'smosttoomanyfor\'em。MaybethePoetLariatain\'tsatisfiedwiththemdeductions？"

Thepoetrepliedwithabarbarousrhymeandwentbelow。

"\'Pearsthathecan\'tqualify，neither。Well，Ididn\'texpectnothingoutofhim。Ineverseeoneofthempoetsyetthatknowedanything。He\'llgodownnowandgrindoutaboutfourreamsoftheawfullestslushaboutthatoldrockandgiveittoaconsul，orapilot，oranigger，oranybodyhecomesacrossfirstwhichhecanimposeon。Pitybutsomebody\'dtakethatpooroldlunaticanddigallthatpoetryrubbageoutofhim。

Whycan\'tamanputhisintellectontothingsthat\'ssomevalue？Gibbons，andHippocratus，andSarcophagus，andallthemoldancientphilosopherswasdownonpoets——"

"Doctor，"Isaid，"youaregoingtoinventauthoritiesnowandI\'llleaveyou，too。Ialwaysenjoyyourconversation，notwithstandingtheluxurianceofyoursyllables，whenthephilosophyyouofferrestsonyourownresponsibility;

butwhenyoubegintosoar——whenyoubegintosupportitwiththeevidenceofauthoritieswhoarethecreationsofyourownfancy——Iloseconfidence。"

Thatwasthewaytoflatterthedoctor。Heconsidereditasortofacknowledgmentonmypartofafeartoarguewithhim。Hewasalwayspersecutingthepassengerswithabstrusepropositionsframedinlanguagethatnomancouldunderstand，andtheyenduredtheexquisitetortureaminuteortwoandthenabandonedthefield。Atriumphlikethisoverhalfadozenantagonistswassufficientforoneday;fromthattimeforwardhewouldpatrolthedecksbeamingblandlyuponallcomers，andsotranquilly，blissfullyhappy！

ButIdigress。ThethunderofourtwobravecannonannouncedtheFourthofJuly，atdaylight，toallwhowereawake。Butmanyofusgotourinformationatalaterhour，fromthealmanac。Alltheflagsweresentaloftexcepthalfadozenthatwereneededtodecorateportionsoftheshipbelow，andinashorttimethevesselassumedaholidayappearance。Duringthemorning，meetingswereheldandallmannerofcommitteessettoworkonthecelebrationceremonies。intheafternoontheship\'scompanyassembledaft，ondeck，undertheawnings;theflute，theasthmaticmelodeon，andtheconsumptiveclarinetcrippled"TheStar—SpangledBanner，"thechoirchasedittocover，andGeorgecameinwithapeculiarlylaceratingscreechonthefinalnoteandslaughteredit。Nobodymourned。

Wecarriedoutthecorpseonthreecheers（thatjokewasnotintentionalandIdonotendorseit），andthenthePresident，thronedbehindacablelockerwithanationalflagspreadoverit，announcedthe"Reader，"whoroseupandreadthatsameoldDeclarationofIndependencewhichwehavealllistenedtosooftenwithoutpayinganyattentiontowhatitsaid;

andafterthatthePresidentpipedtheOratoroftheDaytoquartersandhemadethatsameoldspeechaboutournationalgreatnesswhichwesoreligiouslybelieveandsoferventlyapplaud。Nowcamethechoirintocourtagain，withthecomplaininginstruments，andassaulted"HailColumbia";andwhenvictoryhungwaveringinthescale，Georgereturnedwithhisdreadfulwild—goosestopturnedonandthechoirwon，ofcourse。Aministerpronouncedthebenediction，andthepatrioticlittlegatheringdisbanded。TheFourthofJulywassafe，asfarastheMediterraneanwasconcerned。