The Innocents Abroad

第29章

PresentlyawildArabinchargeofacameltrainrecognizedanoldfriendinFerguson,andtheyranandfelluponeachother\'snecksandkissedeachother\'sgrimy,beardedfacesuponbothcheeks。ItexplainedinstantlyasomethingwhichhadalwaysseemedtomeonlyafarfetchedOrientalfigureofspeech。IrefertothecircumstanceofChrist\'srebukingaPharisee,orsomesuchcharacter,andremindinghimthatfromhimhehadreceivedno"kissofwelcome。"Itdidnotseemreasonabletomethatmenshouldkisseachother,butIamaware,now,thattheydid。Therewasreasoninit,too。Thecustomwasnaturalandproper;becausepeoplemustkiss,andamanwouldnotbelikelytokissoneofthewomenofthiscountryofhisownfreewillandaccord。Onemusttravel,tolearn。Everyday,now,oldScripturalphrasesthatneverpossessedanysignificanceformebefore,taketothemselvesameaning。

Wejourneyedaroundthebaseofthemountain——"LittleHermon,"——

pasttheoldCrusaders\'castleofElFuleh,andarrivedatShunem。ThiswasanotherMagdala,toafraction,frescoesandall。Here,traditionsays,theprophetSamuelwasborn,andheretheShunamitewomanbuiltalittlehouseuponthecitywallfortheaccommodationoftheprophetElisha。Elishaaskedherwhatsheexpectedinreturn。Itwasaperfectlynaturalquestion,forthesepeopleareandwereinthehabitofprofferingfavorsandservicesandthenexpectingandbeggingforpay。Elishaknewthemwell。Hecouldnotcomprehendthatanybodyshouldbuildforhimthathumblelittlechamberforthemeresakeofoldfriendship,andwithnoselfishmotivewhatever。

Itusedtoseemaveryimpolite,nottosayarude,question,forElishatoaskthewoman,butitdoesnotseemsotomenow。ThewomansaidsheexpectednothingThenforhergoodnessandherunselfishness,herejoicedherheartwiththenewsthatsheshouldbearason。Itwasahighreward——butshewouldnothavethankedhimforadaughter——daughtershavealwaysbeenunpopularhere。Thesonwasborn,grew,waxedstrong,died。

ElisharestoredhimtolifeinShunem。

Wefoundhereagroveoflemontrees——cool,shady,hungwithfruit。

Oneisapttooverestimatebeautywhenitisrare,buttomethisgroveseemedverybeautifull。Itwasbeautiful。Idonotoverestimateit。ImustalwaysrememberShunemgratefully,asaplacewhichgavetousthisleafyshelterafterourlong,hotride。Welunched,rested,chatted,smokedourpipesanhour,andthenmountedandmovedon。

AswetrottedacrossthePlainofJezreel,wemethalfadozenDiggerIndians(Bedouins)withverylongspearsintheirhands,cavortingaroundonoldcrowbaithorses,andspearingimaginaryenemies;whooping,andflutteringtheirragsinthewind,andcarryingonineveryrespectlikeapackofhopelesslunatics。Atlast,herewerethe"wild,freesonsofthedesert,speedingovertheplainlikethewind,ontheirbeautifulArabianmares"

wehadreadsomuchaboutandlongedsomuchtosee!Herewerethe"picturesquecostumes"!Thiswasthe"gallantspectacle"!Tatterdemalionvagrants——

cheapbraggadocio——"Arabianmares"spinedandneckedliketheichthyosaurusinthemuseum,andhumpedandcorneredlikeadromedary!Toglanceatthegenuinesonofthedesertistotaketheromanceoutofhimforever——

tobeholdhissteedistolongincharitytostriphisharnessoffandlethimfalltopieces。

Presentlywecametoaruinousoldtownonahill,thesamebeingtheancientJezreel。

Ahab,KingofSamaria,(thiswasaveryvastkingdom,forthosedays,andwasverynearlyhalfaslargeasRhodeIsland)dweltinthecityofJezreel,whichwashiscapital。NearhimlivedamanbythenameofNaboth,whohadavineyard。TheKingaskedhimforit,andwhenhewouldnotgiveit,offeredtobuyit。ButNabothrefusedtosellit。Inthosedaysitwasconsideredasortofcrimetopartwithone\'sinheritanceatanyprice——andevenifamandidpartwithit,itrevertedtohimselforhisheirsagainatthenextjubileeyear。SothisspoiledchildofaKingwentandlaydownonthebedwithhisfacetothewall,andgrievedsorely。TheQueen,anotoriouscharacterinthosedays,andwhosenameisaby—wordandareproacheveninthese,cameinandaskedhimwhereforehesorrowed,andhetoldher。Jezebelsaidshecouldsecurethevineyard;andshewentforthandforgedletterstothenoblesandwisemen,intheKing\'sname,andorderedthemtoproclaimafastandsetNabothonhighbeforethepeople,andsuborntwowit—nessestoswearthathehadblasphemed。Theydidit,andthepeoplestonedtheaccusedbythecitywall,andhedied。ThenJezebelcameandtoldtheKing,andsaid,Behold,Nabothisnomore——riseupandseizethevineyard。SoAhabseizedthevineyard,andwentintoittopossessit。ButtheProphetElijahcametohimthereandreadhisfatetohim,andthefateofJezebel;andsaidthatintheplacewheredogslickedthebloodofNaboth,dogsshouldalsolickhisblood——andhesaid,likewise,thedogsshouldeatJezebelbythewallofJezreel。Inthecourseoftime,theKingwaskilledinbattle,andwhenhischariotwheelswerewashedinthepoolofSamaria,thedogslickedtheblood。Inafteryears,Jehu,whowasKingofIsrael,marcheddownagainstJezreel,byorderofoneoftheProphets,andadministeredoneofthoseconvincingrebukessocommonamongthepeopleofthosedays:hekilledmanykingsandtheirsubjects,andashecamealonghesaw。Jezebei,paintedandfinelydressed,lookingoutofawindow,andorderedthatshebethrowndowntohim。Aservantdidit,andJehu\'shorsetrampledherunderfoot。ThenJehuwentinandsatdowntodinner;andpresentlyhesaid,Goandburythiscursedwoman,forsheisaKing\'sdaughter。Thespiritofcharitycameuponhimtoolate,however,fortheprophecyhadalreadybeenfulfilled——thedogshadeatenher,andthey"foundnomoreofherthantheskull,andthefeet,andthepalmsofherhands。"

Ahab,thelateKing,hadleftahelplessfamilybehindhim,andJehukilledseventyoftheorphansons。Thenhekilledalltherelatives,andteachers,andservantsandfriendsofthefamily,andrestedfromhislabors,untilhewascomeneartoSamaria,wherehemetforty—twopersonsandaskedthemwhotheywere;theysaidtheywerebrothersoftheKingofJudah。

Hekilledthem。WhenhegottoSamaria,hesaidhewouldshowhiszealfortheLord;sohegatheredallthepriestsandpeopletogetherthatworshipedBaal,pretendingthathewasgoingtoadoptthatworshipandofferupagreatsacrifice;andwhentheywereallshutupwheretheycouldnotdefendthemselves,hecausedeverypersonofthemtobekilled。ThenJehu,thegoodmissionary,restedfromhislaborsoncemore。

Wewentbacktothevalley,androdetotheFountainofAinJelud。TheycallittheFountainofJezreel,usually。Itisapondaboutonehundredfeetsquareandfourfeetdeep,withastreamofwatertricklingintoitfromunderanoverhangingledgeofrocks。Itisinthemidstofagreatsolitude。HereGideonpitchedhiscampintheoldtimes;behindShunemlaythe"Midianites,theAmalekites,andtheChildrenoftheEast,"whowere"asgrasshoppersformultitude;boththeyandtheircamelswerewithoutnumber,asthesandbythesea—sideformultitude。"Whichmeansthattherewereonehundredandthirty—fivethousandmen,andthattheyhadtransportationserviceaccordingly。

Gideon,withonlythreehundredmen,surprisedtheminthenight,andstoodbyandlookedonwhiletheybutcheredeachotheruntilahundredandtwentythousandlaydeadonthefield。

WecampedatJeninbeforenight,andgotupandstartedagainatoneo\'clockinthemorning。SomewheretowardsdaylightwepassedthelocalitywherethebestauthenticatedtraditionlocatesthepitintowhichJoseph\'sbrethrenthrewhim,andaboutnoon,afterpassingoverasuccessionofmountaintops,cladwithgrovesoffigandolivetrees,withtheMediterraneaninsightsomefortymilesaway,andgoingbymanyancientBiblicalcitieswhoseinhabitantsgloweredsavagelyuponourChristianprocession,andwereseeminglyinclinedtopracticeonitwithstones,wecametothesingularlyterracedandunlovelyhillsthatbetrayedthatwewereoutofGalileeandintoSamariaatlast。

WeclimbedahighhilltovisitthecityofSamaria,wherethewomanmayhavehailedfromwhoconversedwithChristatJacob\'sWell,andfromwhence,nodoubt,camealsothecel—ebratedGoodSamaritan。HerodtheGreatissaidtohavemadeamagnificentcityofthisplace,andagreatnumberofcoarse1imestonecolumns,twentyfeethighandtwofeetthrough,thatarealmostguiltlessofarchitecturalgraceofshapeandornament,arepointedoutbymanyauthorsasevidenceofthefact。TheywouldnothavebeenconsideredhandsomeinancientGreece,however。

Theinhabitantsofthiscampareparticularlyvicious,andstonedtwopartiesofourpilgrimsadayortwoagowhobroughtaboutthedifficultybyshowingtheirrevolverswhentheydidnotintendtousethem——athingwhichisdeemedbadjudgmentintheFarWest,andoughtcertainlytobesoconsideredanywhere。InthenewTerritories,whenamanputshishandonaweapon,heknowsthathemustuseit;hemustuseitinstantlyorexpecttobeshotdownwherehestands。ThosepilgrimshadbeenreadingGrimes。

TherewasnothingforustodoinSamariabutbuyhandfulsofoldRomancoinsatafrancadozen,andlookatadilapidatedchurchoftheCrusadersandavaultinitwhichoncecontainedthebodyofJohntheBaptist。ThisrelicwaslongagocarriedawaytoGenoa。

Samariastoodadisastroussiege,once,inthedaysofElisha,atthehandsoftheKingofSyria。Provisionsreachedsuchafigurethat"anass\'

headwassoldforeightypiecesofsilverandthefourthpartofacabofdove\'sdungforfivepiecesofsilver。"

Anincidentrecordedofthatheavytimewillgiveoneaverygoodideaofthedistressthatprevailedwithinthesecrumblingwalls。AstheKingwaswalkinguponthebattlementsoneday,"awomancriedout,saying,Help,mylord,OKing!AndtheKingsaid,Whataileththee?andsheanswered,Thiswomansaiduntome,Givethyson,thatwemayeathimto—day,andwewilleatmysonto—morrow。Soweboiledmyson,anddideathim;andIsaiduntoheronthenextday,Givethysonthatwemayeathim;andshehathhidherson。"

TheprophetElishadeclaredthatwithinfourandtwentyhoursthepricesoffood

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