第13章

Theydidnotunderstandme。Theytookmeintotheguard—houseandsearchedme，buttheyfoundnoseditiononme。Theyfoundasmallpieceofsoap（wecarrysoapwithus，now，）andImadethemapresentofit，seeingthattheyregardeditasacuriosity。IcontinuedtosayHoteld\'Europe，andtheycontinuedtoshaketheirheads，untilatlastayoungsoldiernoddinginthecornerrousedupandsaidsomething。Hesaidheknewwherethehotelwas，Isuppose，fortheofficeroftheguardsenthimawaywithme。Wewalkedahundredorahundredandfiftymiles，itappearedtome，andthenhegotlost。Heturnedthiswayandthat，andfinallygaveitupandsignifiedthathewasgoingtospendtheremainderofthemorningtryingtofindthecitygateagain。Atthatmomentitstruckmethattherewassomethingfamiliaraboutthehouseovertheway。Itwasthehotel！

Itwasahappythingformethattherehappenedtobeasoldiertherethatknewevenasmuchashedid;fortheysaythatthepolicyofthegovernmentistochangethesoldieryfromoneplacetoanotherconstantlyandfromcountrytocity，sothattheycannotbecomeacquaintedwiththepeopleandgrowlaxintheirdutiesandenterintoplotsandconspiracieswithfriends。MyexperiencesofFlorencewerechieflyunpleasant。Iwillchangethesubject。

AtPisaweclimbeduptothetopofthestrangeststructuretheworldhasanyknowledgeof——theLeaningTower。Aseveryoneknows，itisintheneighborhoodofonehundredandeightyfeethigh——andIbegtoobservethatonehundredandeightyfeetreachtoaboutthehightoffourordinarythree—storybuildingspiledoneontopoftheother，andisaveryconsiderablealtitudeforatowerofuniformthicknesstoaspireto，evenwhenitstandsupright——yetthisoneleansmorethanthirteenfeetoutoftheperpendicular。

Itissevenhundredyearsold，butneitherhistoryortraditionsaywhetheritwasbuiltasitis，purposely，orwhetheroneofitssideshassettled。

Thereisnorecordthatiteverstoodstraightup。Itisbuiltofmarble。

Itisanairyandabeautifulstructure，andeachofitseightstoriesisencircledbyflutedcolumns，someofmarbleandsomeofgranite，withCorinthiancapitalsthatwerehandsomewhentheywerenew。Itisabelltower，andinitstophangsachimeofancientbells。Thewindingstaircasewithinisdark，butonealwaysknowswhichsideofthetowerheisonbecauseofhisnaturallygravitatingfromonesidetotheotherofthestaircasewiththeriseordipofthetower。Someofthestonestepsarefoot—wornonlyononeend;othersonlyontheotherend;othersonlyinthemiddle。

Tolookdownintothetowerfromthetopislikelookingdownintoatiltedwell。Aropethathangsfromthecentreofthetoptouchesthewallbeforeitreachesthebottom。Standingonthesummit，onedoesnotfeelaltogethercomfortablewhenhelooksdownfromthehighside;buttocrawlonyourbreasttothevergeonthelowersideandtrytostretchyourneckoutfarenoughtoseethebaseofthetower，makesyourfleshcreep，andconvincesyouforasinglemomentinspiteofallyourphilosophy，thatthebuildingisfalling。Youhandleyourselfverycarefully，allthetime，underthesillyimpressionthatifitisnotfalling，yourtriflingweightwillstartitunlessyouareparticularnotto"beardown"onit。

TheDuomo，closeathand，isoneofthefinestcathedralsinEurope。

Itiseighthundredyearsold。Itsgrandeurhasoutlivedthehighcommercialprosperityandthepoliticalimportancethatmadeitanecessity，orratherapossibility。Surroundedbypoverty，decayandruin，itconveystousamoretangibleimpressionoftheformergreatnessofPisathanbookscouldgiveus。

TheBaptistery，whichisafewyearsolderthantheLeaningTower，isastatelyrotunda，ofhugedimensions，andwasacostlystructure。InithangsthelampwhosemeasuredswingsuggestedtoGalileothependulum。

Itlookedaninsignificantthingtohaveconferredupontheworldofscienceandmechanicssuchamightyextensionoftheirdominionsasithas。Pondering，initssuggestivepresence，Iseemedtoseeacrazyuniverseofswingingdisks，thetoilingchildrenofthissedateparent。Heappearedtohaveanintelligentexpressionabouthimofknowingthathewasnotalampatall;thathewasaPendulum;apendulumdisguised，forprodigiousandinscrutablepurposesofhisowndeepdevising，andnotacommonpendulumeither，buttheoldoriginalpatriarchalPendulum——theAbrahamPendulumoftheworld。

ThisBaptisteryisendowedwiththemostpleasingechoofalltheechoeswehavereadof。Theguidesoundedtwosonorousnotes，abouthalfanoctaveapart;theechoansweredwiththemostenchanting，themostmelodious，therichestblendingofsweetsoundsthatonecanimagine。Itwaslikealong—drawnchordofachurchorgan，infinitelysoftenedbydistance。

Imaybeextravagantinthismatter，butifthisbethecasemyearistoblame——notmypen。Iamdescribingamemory——andonethatwillremainlongwithme。

Thepeculiardevotionalspiritoftheoldentime，whichplacedahigherconfidenceinoutwardformsofworshipthaninthewatchfulguardingoftheheartagainstsinfulthoughtsandthehandsagainstsinfuldeeds，andwhichbelievedintheprotectingvirtuesofinanimateobjectsmadeholybycontactwithholythings，isillustratedinastrikingmannerinoneofthecemeteriesofPisa。ThetombsaresetinsoilbroughtinshipsfromtheHolyLandagesago。TobeburiedinsuchgroundwasregardedbytheancientPisansasbeingmorepotentforsalvationthanmanymassespurchasedofthechurchandthevowingofmanycandlestotheVirgin。

Pisaisbelievedtobeaboutthreethousandyearsold。ItwasoneofthetwelvegreatcitiesofancientEtruria，thatcommonwealthwhichhasleftsomanymonumentsintestimonyofitsextraordinaryadvancement，andsolittlehistoryofitselfthatistangibleandcomprehensible。APisanantiquariangavemeanancienttear—jugwhichheaverredwasfullfourthousandyearsold。ItwasfoundamongtheruinsofoneoftheoldestoftheEtruscancities。Hesaiditcamefromatomb，andwasusedbysomebereavedfamilyinthatremoteagewheneventhePyramidsofEgyptwereyoung，Damascusavillage，AbrahamaprattlinginfantandancientTroynotyetdreamptof，toreceivethetearsweptforsomelostidolofahousehold。

Itspoketousinalanguageofitsown;andwithapathosmoretenderthananywordsmightbring，itsmuteeloquencesweptdownthelongrollofthecenturieswithitstaleofavacantchair，afamiliarfootstepmissedfromthethreshold，apleasantvoicegonefromthechorus，avanishedform！——atalewhichisalwayssonewtous，sostartling，soterrible，sobenumbingtothesenses，andbeholdhowthreadbareandolditis！Noshrewdly—wordedhistorycouldhavebroughtthemythsandshadowsofthatolddreamyagebeforeusclothedwithhumanfleshandwarmedwithhumansympathiessovividlyasdidthispoorlittleunsentientvesselofpottery。

Pisawasarepublicinthemiddleages，withagovernmentofherown，armiesandnaviesofherownandagreatcommerce。Shewasawarlikepower，andinscribeduponherbannersmanyabrilliantfightwithGenoeseandTurks。Itissaidthatthecityoncenumberedapopulationoffourhundredthousand;buthersceptrehaspassedfromhergrasp，now，hershipsandherarmiesaregone，hercommerceisdead。Herbattle—flagsbearthemoldandthedustofcenturies，hermartsaredeserted，shehasshrunkenfarwithinhercrumblingwalls，andhergreatpopulationhasdiminishedtotwentythousandsouls。Shehasbutonethinglefttoboastof，andthatisnotmuch，viz:sheisthesecondcityofTuscany。

WereachedLeghornintimetoseeallwewishedtoseeofitlongbeforethecitygateswereclosedfortheevening，andthencameonboardtheship。

Wefeltasthoughwehadbeenawayfromhomeanage。Weneverentirelyappreciated，before，whataverypleasantdenourstate—roomis;norhowjollyitistositatdinnerinone\'sownseatinone\'sowncabin，andholdfamiliarconversationwithfriendsinone\'sownlanguage。Oh，therarehappinessofcomprehendingeverysinglewordthatissaid，andknowingthateverywordonesaysinreturnwillbeunderstoodaswell！Wewouldtalkourselvestodeath，now，onlythereareonlyabouttenpassengersoutofthesixty—fivetotalkto。Theothersarewandering，wehardlyknowwhere。WeshallnotgoashoreinLeghorn。WearesurfeitedwithItaliancitiesforthepresent，andmuchprefertowalkthefamiliarquarterdeckandviewthisonefromadistance。

ThestupidmagnatesofthisLeghorngovernmentcannotunderstandthatsolargeasteamerasourscouldcrossthebroadAtlanticwithnootherpurposethantoindulgeapartyofladiesandgentlemeninapleasureexcursion。

Itlookstooimprobable。Itissuspicious，theythink。Somethingmoreimportantmustbehiddenbehinditall。Theycannotunderstandit，andtheyscorntheevidenceoftheship\'spapers。Theyhavedecidedatlastthatweareabattalionofincen—diary，blood—thirstyGaribaldiansindisguise！Andinallseriousnesstheyhavesetagun—boattowatchthevesselnightandday，withorderstoclosedownonanyrevolutionarymovementinatwinkling！

Policeboatsareonpatroldutyaboutusallthetime，anditisasmuchasasailor\'slibertyisworthtoshowhimselfinaredshirt。Thesepolicemenfollowtheexecutiveofflcer\'sboatfromshoretoshipandfromshiptoshoreandwatchhisdarkmaneuvreswithavigilanteye。Theywillarresthimyetunlessheassumesanexpressionofcountenancethatshallhavelessofcarnage，insurrectionandseditioninit。AvisitpaidinafriendlywaytoGeneralGaribaldiyesterday（bycordialinvitation，）bysomeofourpassengers，hasgonefartoconfirmthedreadsuspicionsthegovernmentharborstowardus。Itisthoughtthefriendlyvisitwasonlythecloakofabloodyconspiracy。Thesepeopledrawnearandwatchuswhenwebatheintheseafromtheship\'sside。Dotheythinkwearecommuningwithareserveforceofrascalsatthebottom？ItissaidthatweshallprobablybequarantinedatNaples。Twoorthreeofusprefernottorunthisrisk。

Therefore，whenwearerested，weproposetogoinaFrenchsteamertoCivitaandfromthencetoRome，andbyrailtoNaples。Theydonotquarantinethecars，nomatterwheretheygottheirpassengersfrom。

Chapter25

ThereareagoodmanythingsaboutthisItalywhichIdonotunderstand——andmoreespeciallyIcannotunderstandhowabankruptGovernmentcanhavesuchpalatialrailroaddepotsandsuchmarvelsofturnpikes。Why，theselatterareashardasadamant，asstraightasaline，assmoothasafloor，andaswhiteassnow。Whenitistoodarktoseeanyotherobject，onecanstillseethewhiteturnpikesofFranceandItaly;andtheyarecleanenoughtoeatfrom，withoutatable—cloth。Andyetnotollsarecharged。

Asfortherailways——wehavenonelikethem。Thecarsslideassmoothlyalongasiftheywereonrunners。Thedepotsarevastpalacesofcutmarble，withstatelycolonnadesofthesameroyalstonetraversingthemfromendtoend，andwithamplewallsandceilingsrichlydecoratedwithfrescoes。

Theloftygatewaysaregracedwithstatues，andthebroadfloorsarealllaidinpolishedflagsofmarble。

ThesethingswinmemorethanItaly\'shundredgalleriesofpricelessarttreasures，becauseIcanunderstandtheoneandamnotcompetenttoappreciatetheother。Intheturnpikes，therailways，thedepots，andthenewboulevardsofuniformhousesinFlorenceandothercitieshere，IseethegeniusofLouisNapoleon，orrather，Iseetheworksofthatstatesmanimitated。ButLouishastakencarethatinFrancethereshallbeafoundationfortheseimprovements——money。Hehasalwaysthewherewithaltobackuphisprojects;theystrengthenFranceandneverweakenher。Hermaterialprosperityisgenuine。Butherethecaseisdifferent。Thiscountryisbankrupt。Thereisnorealfoundationforthesegreatworks。Theprosperitytheywouldseemtoindicateisapretence。Thereisnomoneyinthetreasury，andsotheyenfeebleherinsteadofstrengthening。ItalyhasachievedthedearestwishofherheartandbecomeanindependentState——andinsodoingshehasdrawnanelephantinthepoliticallottery。Shehasnothingtofeediton。Inexperiencedingovernment，sheplungedintoallmannerofuselessexpenditure，andswampedhertreasuryalmostinaday。Shesquanderedmillionsoffrancsonanavywhichshedidnotneed，andthefirsttimeshetookhernewtoyintoactionshegotitknockedhigherthanGilderoy\'skite——tousethelanguageofthePilgrims。

Butitisanill—windthatblowsnobodygood。Ayearago，whenItalysawutterruinstaringherinthefaceandhergreenbackshardlyworththepapertheywereprintedon，herParliamentventureduponacoupdemainthatwouldhaveappalledthestoutestofherstatesmenunderlessdesperatecircumstances。They，inamanner，confiscatedthedomainsoftheChurch！Thisinpriest—riddenItaly！Thisinalandwhichhasgropedinthemidnightofpriestlysuperstitionforsixteenhundredyears！ItwasararegoodfortuneforItaly，thestressofweatherthatdrovehertobreakfromthisprison—house。

Theydonotcallitconfiscatingthechurchproperty。Thatwouldsoundtooharshlyyet。Butitamountstothat。TherearethousandsofchurchesinItaly，eachwithuntoldmillionsoftreasuresstoredawayinitsclosets，andeachwithitsbattalionofprieststobesupported。AndthentherearetheestatesoftheChurch——leagueonleagueoftherichestlandsandthenoblestforestsinallItaly——allyieldingimmenserevenuestotheChurch，andnonepayingacentintaxestotheState。InsomegreatdistrictstheChurchownsalltheproperty——lands，watercourses，woods，millsandfactories。Theybuy，theysell，theymanufacture，andsincetheypaynotaxes，whocanhopetocompetewiththem？

Well，theGovernmenthasseizedallthisineffect，andwillyetseizeitinrigidandunpoeticalreality，nodoubt。Some—thingmustbedonetofeedastarvingtreasury，andthereisnootherresourceinallItaly——nonebuttherichesoftheChurch。SotheGovernmentintendstotaketoitselfagreatportionoftherevenuesarisingfrompriestlyfarms，factories，etc。，andalsointendstotakepossessionofthechurchesandcarrythemon，afteritsownfashionanduponitsownresponsibility。Inafewinstancesitwillleavetheestablishmentsofgreatpetchurchesundisturbed，butinallothersonlyahandfulofpriestswillberetainedtopreachandpray，afewwillbepensioned，andthebalanceturnedadrift。

Prayglanceatsomeofthesechurchesandtheirembellishments，andseewhethertheGovernmentisdoingarighteousthingornot。InVenice，to—day，acityofahundredthousandinhabitants，therearetwelvehundredpriests。HeavenonlyknowshowmanytherewerebeforetheParliamentreducedtheirnumbers。TherewasthegreatJesuitChurch。Undertheoldregimeitrequiredsixtyprieststoengineerit——theGovernmentdoesitwithfive，now，andtheothersaredischargedfromservice。Allaboutthatchurchwretchednessandpovertyabound。Atitsdooradozenhatsandbonnetsweredoffedtous，asmanyheadswerehumblybowed，andasmanyhandsextended，appealingforpennies——appealingwithforeignwordswecouldnotunderstand，butappealingmutely，withsadeyes，andsunkencheeks，andraggedraiment，thatnowordswereneededtotranslate。Thenwepassedwithinthegreatdoors，anditseemedthattherichesoftheworldwerebeforeus！Hugecolumnscarvedoutofsinglemassesofmarble，andinlaidfromtoptobottomwithahundredintricatefigureswroughtincostlyverdeantique;pulpitsofthesamerichmaterials，whosedraperieshungdowninmanyapicturedfold，thestonyfabriccounterfeitingthedelicateworkoftheloom;thegrandaltarbrilliantwithpolishedfacingsandbalustradesoforientalagate，jasper，verdeantique，andotherpreciousstones，whosenames，even，weseldomhear——andslabsofpricelesslapislazulilavishedeverywhereasrecklesslyasifthechurchhadownedaquarryofit。Inthemidstofallthismagnificence，thesolidgoldandsilverfurnitureofthealtarseemedcheapandtrivial。Eventhefloorsandceilingscostaprincelyfortune。

Now，whereistheuseofallowingallthoserichestolieidle，whilehalfofthatcommunityhardlyknow，fromdaytoday，howtheyaregoingtokeepbodyandsoultogether？And，whereisthewisdominpermittinghundredsuponhundredsofmillionsoffrancstobelockedupintheuselesstrumperyofchurchesalloverItaly，andthepeoplegroundtodeathwithtaxationtoupholdaperishingGovernment？

AsfarasIcansee，Italy，forfifteenhundredyears，hasturnedallherenergies，allherfinances，andallherindustrytothebuildingupofavastarrayofwonderfulchurchedifices，andstarvinghalfhercitizenstoaccomplishit。Sheisto—dayonevastmuseumofmagnificenceandmisery。

AllthechurchesinanordinaryAmericancityputtogethercouldhardlybuythejeweledfripperyinoneofherhundredcathedrals。AndforeverybeggarinAmerica，Italycanshowahundred——andragsandvermintomatch。

Itisthewretchedest，princeliestlandonearth。

LookatthegrandDuomoofFlorence——avastpilethathasbeensappingthepursesofhercitizensforfivehundredyears，andisnotnearlyfinishedyet。Likeallothermen，Ifelldownandworshippedit，butwhenthefilthybeggarsswarmedaroundmethecontrastwastoostriking，toosuggestive，andIsaid，"O，sonsofclassicItaly，isthespiritofenterprise，ofself—reliance，ofnobleendeavor，utterlydeadwithinye？Curseyourindolentworthlessness，whydon\'tyourobyourchurch？"

Threehundredhappy，comfortablepriestsareemployedinthatCathedral。

Andnowthatmytemperisup，ImayaswellgoonandabuseeverybodyIcanthinkof。TheyhaveagrandmausoleuminFlorence，whichtheybuilttoburyourLordandSaviourandtheMedicifamilyin。Itsoundsblasphemous，butitistrue，andheretheyactblasphemy。ThedeadanddamnedMediciswhocruellytyrannizedoverFlorenceandwerehercurseforovertwohundredyears，aresaltedawayinacircleofcostlyvaults，andintheirmidsttheHolySepulchrewastohavebeensetup。TheexpeditionsenttoJerusalemtoseizeitgotintotroubleandcouldnotaccomplishtheburglary，andsothecentreofthemausoleumisvacantnow。TheysaytheentiremausoleumwasintendedfortheHolySepulchre，andwasonlyturnedintoafamilyburyingplaceaftertheJerusalemexpeditionfailed——butyouwillexcuseme。SomeofthoseMediciswouldhavesmuggledthemselvesinsure。——Whattheyhadnottheeffronterytodo，wasnotworthdoing。Why，theyhadtheirtrivial，forgottenexploitsonlandandseapicturedoutingrandfrescoes（asdidalsotheancientDogesofVenice）

withtheSaviourandtheVirginthrowingbouquetstothemoutoftheclouds，andtheDeityhimselfapplaudingfromhisthroneinHeaven！Andwhopaintedthesethings？Why，Titian，Tintoretto，PaulVeronese，Raphael——noneotherthantheworld\'sidols，the"oldmasters。"

AndreadelSartoglorifiedhisprincesinpicturesthatmustsavethemforeverfromtheobliviontheymerited，andtheylethimstarve。Servedhimright。RaphaelpicturedsuchinfernalvillainsasCatherineandMariedeMedicisseatedinheavenandconversingfamiliarlywiththeVirginMaryandtheangels，（tosaynothingofhigherpersonages，）andyetmyfriendsabusemebecauseIamalittleprejudicedagainsttheoldmasters——becauseIfailsometimestoseethebeautythatisintheirproductions。Icannothelpbutseeit，nowandthen，butIkeeponprotestingagainstthegrovelingspiritthatcouldpersuadethosemasterstoprostitutetheirnobletalentstotheadulationofsuchmonstersastheFrench，VenetianandFlorentinePrincesoftwoandthreehundredyearsago，allthesame。

Iamtoldthattheoldmastershadtodotheseshamefulthingsforbread，theprincesandpotentatesbeingtheonlypatronsofart。Ifagrandlygiftedmanmaydraghisprideandhismanhoodinthedirtforbreadratherthanstarvewiththenobilitythatisinhimuntainted，theexcuseisavalidone。ItwouldexcusetheftinWashingtonsandWellingtons，andunchastityinwomenaswell。

Butsomehow，IcannotkeepthatMedicimausoleumoutofmymemory。

Itisaslargeasachurch;itspavementisrichenoughforthepavementofaKing\'spalace;itsgreatdomeisgorgeouswithfrescoes;itswallsaremadeof——what？Marble？——plaster？——wood？——paper？No。Redporphyry——verdeantique——jasper——orientalagate——alabaster——mother—of—pearl——chalcedony——redcoral——lapislazuli！Allthevastwallsaremadewhollyofthesepreciousstones，workedin，andinandintogetherinelaboratepatternsandfigures，andpolishedtilltheyglowlikegreatmirrorswiththepicturedsplendorsreflectedfromthedomeoverhead。AndbeforeastatueofoneofthosedeadMedicisreposesacrownthatblazeswithdiamondsandemeraldsenoughtobuyaship—of—the—line，almost。ThesearethethingstheGovernmenthasitsevileyeupon，andahappythingitwillbeforItalywhentheymeltawayinthepublictreasury。

Andnow——。However，anotherbeggarapproaches。Iwillgooutanddestroyhim，andthencomebackandwriteanotherchapterofvituperation。

Havingeatenthefriendlessorphan——havingdrivenawayhiscomrades——havinggrowncalmandreflectiveatlength——Inowfeelinakindliermood。Ifeelthataftertalkingsofreelyaboutthepriestsandthechurches，justicedemandsthatifIknowanythinggoodabouteitherIoughttosayit。Ihaveheardofmanythingsthatredoundtothecreditofthepriesthood，butthemostnotablematterthatoccurstomenowisthedevotiononeofthemendicantordersshowedduringtheprevalenceofthecholeralastyear。

IspeakoftheDominicanfriars——menwhowearacoarse，heavybrownrobeandacowl，inthishotclimate，andgobarefoot。Theyliveonalmsaltogether，Ibelieve。Theymustunquestionablylovetheirreligion，tosuffersomuchforit。WhenthecholerawasraginginNaples;whenthepeopleweredyingbyhundredsandhundredseveryday;wheneveryconcernforthepublicwelfarewasswallowedupinselfishprivateinterest，andeverycitizenmadethetakingcareofhimselfhissoleobject，thesemenbandedthemselvestogetherandwentaboutnursingthesickandburyingthedead。Theirnobleeffortscostmanyofthemtheirlives。Theylaidthemdowncheerfully，andwelltheymight。Creedsmathematicallyprecise，andhair—splittingnicetiesofdoctrine，areabsolutelynecessaryforthesalvationofsomekindsofsouls，butsurelythecharity，thepurity，theunselfishnessthatareintheheartsofmenlikethesewouldsavetheirsoulsthoughtheywerebankruptinthetruereligion——whichisours。

Oneofthesefatbare—footedrascalscameheretoCivitaVecchiawithusinthelittleFrenchsteamer。Therewereonlyhalfadozenofusinthecabin。Hebelongedinthesteerage。Hewasthelifeoftheship，thebloody—mindedsonoftheInquisition！HeandtheleaderofthemarinebandofaFrenchman—of—warplayedonthepianoandsangoperaturnabout;theysangduetstogether;theyriggedimpromptutheatricalcostumesandgaveusextravagantfarcesandpantomimes。Wegotalongfirst—ratewiththefriar，andwereexcessivelyconversational，albeithecouldnotunderstandwhatwesaid，andcertainlyheneverutteredawordthatwecouldguessthemeaningof。

ThisCivitaVecchiaisthefinestnestofdirt，verminandignorancewehavefoundyet，exceptthatAfricanperditiontheycallTangier，whichisjustlikeit。Thepeoplehereliveinalleystwoyardswide，whichhaveasmellaboutthemwhichispeculiarbutnotentertaining。Itiswellthealleysarenotwider，becausetheyholdasmuchsmellnowasapersoncanstand，andofcourse，iftheywerewidertheywouldholdmore，andthenthepeoplewoulddie。Thesealleysarepavedwithstone，andcarpetedwithdeceasedcats，anddecayedrags，anddecomposedvegetable—tops，andremnantsofoldboots，allsoakedwithdish—water，andthepeoplesitaroundonstoolsandenjoyit。Theyareindolent，asageneralthing，andyethavefewpastimes。Theyworktwoorthreehoursatatime，butnothard，andthentheyknockoffandcatchflies。Thisdoesnotrequireanytalent，becausetheyonlyhavetograb——iftheydonotgettheonetheyareafter，theygetanother。Itisallthesametothem。Theyhavenopartialities。

Whicheveronetheygetistheonetheywant。

Theyhaveotherkindsofinsects，butitdoesnotmakethemarrogant。

Theyareveryquiet，unpretendingpeople。Theyhavemoreofthesekindofthingsthanothercommunities，buttheydonotboast。

Theyareveryuncleanly——thesepeople——inface，inpersonanddress。

Whentheyseeanybodywithacleanshirton，itarousestheirscorn。Thewomenwashclothes，halftheday，atthepublictanksinthestreets，buttheyareprobablysomebodyelse\'s。Ormaybetheykeeponesettowearandanothertowash;becausetheyneverputonanythathaveeverbeenwashed。Whentheygetdonewashing，theysitinthealleysandnursetheircubs。Theynurseoneash—catatatime，andtheothersscratchtheirbacksagainstthedoor—postandarehappy。

AllthiscountrybelongstothePapalStates。Theydonotappeartohaveanyschoolshere，andonlyonebilliardtable。Theireducationisataverylowstage。Oneportionofthemengointothemilitary，anotherintothepriesthood，andtherestintotheshoe—makingbusiness。

Theykeepupthepassportsystemhere，butsotheydoinTurkey。ThisshowsthatthePapalStatesareasfaradvancedasTurkey。Thisfactwillbealonesufficienttosilencethetonguesofmalignantcalumniators。I

hadtogetmypassportvisedforRomeinFlorence，andthentheywouldnotletmecomeashorehereuntilapolicemanhadexamineditonthewharfandsentmeapermit。Theydidnotevendaretoletmetakemypassportinmyhandsfortwelvehours，Ilookedsoformidable。Theyjudgeditbesttoletmecooldown。TheythoughtIwantedtotakethetown，likely。

Littledidtheyknowme。Iwouldn\'thaveit。Theyexaminedmybaggageatthedepot。Theytookoneofmyablestjokesandreaditovercarefullytwiceandthenreaditbackwards。Butitwastoodeepforthem。Theypasseditaround，andeverybodyspeculatedonitawhile，butitmasteredthemall。

Itwasnocommonjoke。Atlengthaveteranofficerspelleditoverdeliberatelyandshookhisheadthreeorfourtimesandsaidthatinhisopinionitwasseditious。ThatwasthefirsttimeIfeltalarmed。IimmediatelysaidIwouldexplainthedocument，andtheycrowdedaround。AndsoIexplainedandexplainedandexplained，andtheytooknotesofallIsaid，butthemoreIexplainedthemoretheycouldnotunderstandit，andwhentheydesistedatlast，Icouldnotevenunderstanditmyself。Theysaidtheybelieveditwasanincendiarydocument，leveledatthegovernment。Ideclaredsolemnlythatitwasnot，buttheyonlyshooktheirheadsandwouldnotbesatisfied。

Thentheyconsultedagoodwhile;andfinallytheyconfiscatedit。Iwasverysorryforthis，becauseIhadworkedalongtimeonthatjoke，andtookagooddealofprideinit，andnowIsupposeIshallneverseeitanymore。IsupposeitwillbesentupandfiledawayamongthecriminalarchivesofRome，andwillalwaysberegardedasamysteriousinfernalmachinewhichwouldhaveblownuplikeamineandscatteredthegoodPopeallaround，butforamiraculousprovidentialinterference。AndIsupposethatallthetimeIaminRomethepolicewilldogmeaboutfromplacetoplacebecausetheythinkIamadangerouscharacter。

ItisfearfullyhotinCivitaVecchia。Thestreetsaremadeverynarrowandthehousesbuiltverysolidandheavyandhigh，asaprotectionagainsttheheat。ThisisthefirstItaliantownIhaveseenwhichdoesnotappeartohaveapatronsaint。Isupposenosaintbuttheonethatwentupinthechariotoffirecouldstandtheclimate。

Thereisnothingheretosee。Theyhavenotevenacathedral，witheleventonsofsolidsilverarchbishopsinthebackroom;andtheydonotshowyouanymoldybuildingsthatareseventhousandyearsold;noranysmoke—driedoldfire—screenswhicharechefd\'œuvresofReubensorSimpson，orTitianorFerguson，oranyofthoseparties;andtheyhaven\'tanybottledfragmentsofsaints，andnotevenanailfromthetruecross。

WearegoingtoRome。Thereisnothingtoseehere。

Chapter26

Whatisitthatconfersthenoblestdelight？Whatisthatwhichswellsaman\'sbreastwithprideabovethatwhichanyotherexperiencecanbringtohim？Discovery！Toknowthatyouarewalkingwherenoneothershavewalked;thatyouarebeholdingwhathumaneyehasnotseenbefore;thatyouarebreathingavirginatmosphere。Togivebirthtoanidea——todiscoveragreatthought——anintellectualnugget，rightunderthedustofafieldthatmanyabrain——plowhadgoneoverbefore。Tofindanewplanet，toinventanewhinge，tofindthewaytomakethelightningscarryyourmessages。

Tobethefirst——thatistheidea。Todosomething，saysomething，seesomething，beforeanybodyelse——thesearethethingsthatconferapleasurecomparedwithwhichotherpleasuresaretameandcommonplace，otherecstasiescheapandtrivial。Morse，withhisfirstmessage，broughtbyhisservant，thelightning;Fulton，inthatlong—drawncenturyofsuspense，whenheplacedhishanduponthethrottle—valveandlo，thesteamboatmoved;Jenner，whenhispatientwiththecow\'svirusinhisblood，walkedthroughthesmallpoxhospitalsunscathed;Howe，whentheideashotthroughhisbrainthatforahundredandtwentygenerationstheeyehadbeenboredthroughthewrongendoftheneedle;thenamelesslordofartwholaiddownhischiselinsomeoldagethatisforgotten，now，andgloateduponthefinishedLaocoon;Daguerre，whenhecommandedthesun，ridinginthezenith，toprintthelandscapeuponhisinsignificantsilveredplate，andheobeyed;Columbus，inthePinta\'sshrouds，whenheswunghishataboveafabledseaandgazedabroaduponanunknownworld！Thesearethemenwhohavereallylived——whohaveactuallycomprehendedwhatpleasureis——whohavecrowdedlonglifetimesofecstasyintoasinglemoment。

WhatisthereinRomeformetoseethatothershavenotseenbeforeme？Whatisthereformetotouchthatothershavenottouched？Whatisthereformetofeel，tolearn，tohear，toknow，thatshallthrillmebeforeitpasstoothers？WhatcanIdiscover？——Nothing。Nothingwhatsoever。

Onecharmoftraveldieshere。ButifIwereonlyaRoman！——If，addedtomyownIcouldbegiftedwithmodernRomansloth，modernRomansuperstition，andmodernRomanboundlessnessofignorance，whatbewilderingworldsofunsuspectedwondersIwoulddiscover！Ah，ifIwereonlyahabitantoftheCampagnafiveandtwentymilesfromRome！ThenIwouldtravel。

IwouldgotoAmerica，andsee，andlearn，andreturntotheCampagnaandstandbeforemycountrymenanillustriousdiscoverer。Iwouldsay:

"IsawthereacountrywhichhasnoovershadowingMotherChurch，andyetthepeoplesurvive。Isawagovernmentwhichneverwasprotectedbyforeignsoldiersatacostgreaterthanthatrequiredtocarryonthegovernmentitself。Isawcommonmenandcommonwomenwhocouldread;Ievensawsmallchildrenofcommoncountrypeoplereadingfrombooks;ifIdaredthinkyouwouldbelieveit，Iwouldsaytheycouldwrite，also。InthecitiesIsawpeopledrinkingadeliciousbeveragemadeofchalkandwater，butneveroncesawgoatsdriventhroughtheirBroadwayortheirPennsylvaniaAvenueortheirMontgomerystreetandmilkedatthedoorsofthehouses。