第18章

Butbadnewscame。ThecommandantofthePiræuscameinhisboat，andsaidwemusteitherdepartorelsegetoutsidetheharborandremainimprisonedinourship，underrigidquarantine，forelevendays！Sowetookuptheanchorandmovedoutside，tolieadozenhoursorso，takinginsupplies，andthensailforConstantinople。Itwasthebitterestdisappointmentwehadyetexperienced。TolieawholedayinsightoftheAcropolis，andyetbeobligedtogoawaywithoutvisitingAthens！Disappointmentwashardlyastrongenoughwordtodescribethecircumstances。

Allhandswereondeck，alltheafternoon，withbooksandmapsandglasses，tryingtodeterminewhich"narrowrockyridge"wastheAreopagus，whichslopinghillthePnyx，whichelevationtheMuseumHill，andsoon。Andwegotthingsconfused。Discussionbecameheated，andpartyspiritranhigh。ChurchmembersweregazingwithemotionuponahillwhichtheysaidwastheoneSt。Paulpreachedfrom，andanotherfactionclaimedthatthathillwasHymettus，andanotherthatitwasPentelicon！Afterallthetrouble，wecouldbecertainofonlyonething——thesquare—toppedhillwastheAcropolis，andthegrandruinthatcrowneditwastheParthenon，whosepictureweknewininfancyintheschoolbooks。

Weinquiredofeverybodywhocameneartheship，whethertherewereguardsinthePiræus，whethertheywerestrict，whatthechanceswereofcaptureshouldanyofusslipashore，andincaseanyofusmadetheventureandwerecaught，whatwouldbeprobablydonetous？Theanswerswerediscouraging:Therewasastrongguardorpoliceforce;thePiræuswasasmalltown，andanystrangerseeninitwouldsurelyattractattention——capturewouldbecertain。Thecommandantsaidthepunishmentwouldbe"heavy;"

whenasked"howheavy？"hesaiditwouldbe"verysevere"——thatwasallwecouldgetoutofhim。

Ateleveno\'clockatnight，whenmostoftheship\'scompanywereabed，fourofusstolesoftlyashoreinasmallboat，acloudedmoonfavoringtheenterprise，andstartedtwoandtwo，andfarapart，overalowhill，intendingtogocleararoundthePiræus，outoftherangeofitspolice。Pickingourwaysostealthilyoverthatrocky，nettle—growneminence，mademefeelagooddealasifIwereonmywaysomewheretostealsomething。

MyimmediatecomradeandItalkedinanundertoneaboutquarantinelawsandtheirpenalties，butwefoundnothingcheeringinthesubject。Iwasposted。Onlyafewdaysbefore，Iwastalkingwithourcaptain，andhementionedthecaseofamanwhoswamashorefromaquarantinedshipsomewhere，andgotimprisonedsixmonthsforit;andwhenhewasinGenoaafewyearsago，acaptainofaquarantinedshipwentinhisboattoadepartingship，whichwasalreadyoutsideoftheharbor，andputaletteronboardtobetakentohisfamily，andtheauthoritiesimprisonedhimthreemonthsforit，andthenconductedhimandhisshipfairlytosea，andwarnedhimnevertoshowhimselfinthatportagainwhilehelived。Thiskindofconversationdidnogood，furtherthantogiveasortofdismalinteresttoourquarantine—breakingexpedition，andsowedroppedit。Wemadetheentirecircuitofthetownwithoutseeinganybodybutoneman，whostaredatuscuriously，butsaidnothing，andadozenpersonsasleeponthegroundbeforetheirdoors，whomwewalkedamongandneverwoke——butwewokeupdogsenough，inallconscience——wealwayshadoneortwobarkingatourheels，andseveraltimeswehadasmanyastenandtwelveatonce。Theymadesuchapreposterousdinthatpersonsaboardourshipsaidtheycouldtellhowwewereprogressingforalongtime，andwherewewere，bythebarkingofthedogs。Thecloudedmoonstillfavoredus。Whenwehadmadethewholecircuit，andwerepassingamongthehousesonthefurthersideofthetown，themooncameoutsplendidly，butwenolongerfearedthelight。Asweapproachedawell，nearahouse，togetadrink，theownermerelyglancedatusandwentwithin。Heleftthequiet，slumberingtownatourmercy。Irecordithereproudly，thatwedidn\'tdoanythingtoit。

Seeingnoroad，wetookatallhilltotheleftofthedistantAcropolisforamark，andsteeredstraightforitoverallobstructions，andoveralittlerougherpieceofcountrythanexistsanywhereelseoutsideoftheStateofNevada，perhaps。Partofthewayitwascoveredwithsmall，loosestones——wetrodonsixatatime，andtheyallrolled。Anotherpartofitwasdry，loose，newly—ploughedground。Stillanotherpartofitwasalongstretchoflowgrape—vines，whichweretanglesomeandtroublesome，andwhichwetooktobebrambles。TheAtticPlain，barringthegrape—vines，wasabarren，desolate，unpoeticalwaste——IwonderwhatitwasinGreece\'sAgeofGlory，fivehundredyearsbeforeChrist？

Intheneighborhoodofoneo\'clockinthemorning，whenwewereheatedwithfastwalkingandparchedwiththirst，Dennyexclaimed，"Why，theseweedsaregrape—vines！"andinfiveminuteswehadascoreofbunchesoflarge，white，deliciousgrapes，andwerereachingdownformorewhenadarkshaperosemysteriouslyupoutoftheshadowsbesideusandsaid"Ho！"

Andsoweleft。

Intenminutesmorewestruckintoabeautifulroad，andunlikesomeotherswehadstumbleduponatintervals，itledintherightdirection。

Wefollowedit。Itwasbroad，andsmooth，andwhite——handsomeandinperfectrepair，andshadedonbothsidesforamileorsowithsingleranksoftrees，andalsowithluxuriantvineyards。Twiceweenteredandstolegrapes，andthesecondtimesomebodyshoutedatusfromsomeinvisibleplace。Whereuponweleftagain。WespeculatedingrapesnomoreonthatsideofAthens。

Shortlywecameuponanancientstoneaqueduct，builtuponarches，andfromthattimeforthwehadruinsallaboutus——wewereapproachingourjourney\'send。WecouldnotseetheAcropolisnoworthehighhill，either，andIwantedtofollowtheroadtillwewereabreastofthem，buttheothersoverruledme，andwetoiledlaboriouslyupthestonyhillimmediatelyinourfront——andfromitssummitsawanother——climbeditandsawanother！

Itwasanhourofexhaustingwork。Soonwecameuponarowofopengraves，cutinthesolidrock——（forawhileoneofthemservedSocratesforaprison）——wepassedaroundtheshoulderofthehill，andthecitadel，inallitsruinedmagnificence，burstuponus！Wehurriedacrosstheravineandupawindingroad，andstoodontheoldAcropolis，withtheprodigiouswallsofthecitadeltoweringaboveourheads。Wedidnotstoptoinspecttheirmassiveblocksofmarble，ormeasuretheirheight，orguessattheirextraordinarythickness，butpassedatoncethroughagreatarchedpassagelikearailwaytunnel，andwentstraighttothegatethatleadstotheancienttemples。

Itwaslocked！So，afterall，itseemedthatwewerenottoseethegreatParthenonfacetoface。Wesatdownandheldacouncilofwar。Result:

thegatewasonlyaflimsystructureofwood——wewouldbreakitdown。Itseemedlikedesecration，butthenwehadtraveledfar，andournecessitieswereurgent。Wecouldnothuntupguidesandkeepers——wemustbeontheshipbeforedaylight。Soweargued。Thiswasallveryfine，butwhenwecametobreakthegate，wecouldnotdoit。Wemovedaroundanangleofthewallandfoundalowbastion——eightfeethighwithout——tenortwelvewithin。Dennypreparedtoscaleit，andwegotreadytofollow。Bydintofhardscramblinghefinallystraddledthetop，butsomeloosestonescrumbledawayandfellwithacrashintothecourtwithin。Therewasinstantlyabangingofdoorsandashout。Dennydroppedfromthewallinatwinkling，andweretreatedindisordertothegate。XerxestookthatmightycitadelfourhundredandeightyyearsbeforeChrist，whenhisfivemillionsofsoldiersandcamp—followersfollowedhimtoGreece，andifwefourAmericanscouldhaveremainedunmolestedfiveminuteslonger，wewouldhavetakenittoo。

Thegarrisonhadturnedout——fourGreeks。Weclamoredatthegate，andtheyadmittedus。[Briberyandcorruption。]

Wecrossedalargecourt，enteredagreatdoor，andstooduponapavementofpurestwhitemarble，deeplywornbyfootprints。Beforeus，inthefloodingmoonlight，rosethenoblestruinswehadeverlookedupon——thePropylæ;

asmallTempleofMinerva;theTempleofHercules，andthegrandParthenon。

[WegotthesenamesfromtheGreekguide，whodidn\'tseemtoknowmorethansevenmenoughttoknow。]TheseedificeswereallbuiltofthewhitestPentelicmarble，buthaveapinkishstainuponthemnow。Whereanypartisbroken，however，thefracturelookslikefineloafsugar。Sixcaryatides，ormarblewomen，cladinflowingrobes，supporttheporticooftheTempleofHercules，buttheporticosandcolonnadesoftheotherstructuresareformedofmassiveDoricandIonicpillars，whoseflutingsandcapitalsarestillmeasurablyperfect，notwithstandingthecenturiesthathavegoneoverthemandthesiegestheyhavesuffered。TheParthenon，originally，wastwohundredandtwenty—sixfeetlong，onehundredwide，andseventyhigh，andhadtworowsofgreatcolumns，eightineach，ateitherend，andsinglerowsofseventeeneachdownthesides，andwasoneofthemostgracefulandbeautifuledificesevererected。

MostoftheParthenon\'simposingcolumnsarestillstanding，buttheroofisgone。Itwasaperfectbuildingtwohundredandfiftyyearsago，whenashelldroppedintotheVenetianmagazinestoredhere，andtheexplosionwhichfollowedwreckedandunroofedit。IrememberbutlittleabouttheParthenon，andIhaveputinoneortwofactsandfiguresfortheuseofotherpeoplewithshortmemories。Gotthemfromtheguide—book。

Aswewanderedthoughtfullydownthemarble—pavedlengthofthisstatelytemple，thesceneaboutuswasstrangelyimpressive。Hereandthere，inlavishprofusion，weregleamingwhitestatuesofmenandwomen，proppedagainstblocksofmarble，someofthemarmless，somewithoutlegs，othersheadless——butalllookingmournfulinthemoonlight，andstartlinglyhuman！

Theyroseupandconfrontedthemidnightintruderoneveryside——theystaredathimwithstonyeyesfromunlooked—fornooksandrecesses;theypeeredathimoverfragmentaryheapsfardownthedesolatecorridors;theybarredhiswayinthemidstofthebroadforum，andsolemnlypointedwithhandlessarmsthewayfromthesacredfane;andthroughtherooflesstemplethemoonlookeddown，andbandedtheflooranddarkenedthescatteredfragmentsandbrokenstatueswiththeslantingshadowsofthecolumns。

Whataworldofruinedsculpturewasaboutus！Setupinrows——stackedupinpiles——scatteredbroadcastoverthewideareaoftheAcropolis——werehundredsofcrippledstatuesofallsizesandofthemostexquisiteworkmanship;

andvastfragmentsofmarblethatoncebelongedtotheentablatures，coveredwithbas—reliefsrepresentingbattlesandsieges，shipsofwarwiththreeandfourtiersofoars，pageantsandprocessions——everythingonecouldthinkof。HistorysaysthatthetemplesoftheAcropoliswerefilledwiththenoblestworksofPraxitelesandPhidias，andofmanyagreatmasterinsculpturebesides——andsurelytheseelegantfragmentsattestit。

Wewalkedoutintothegrass—grown，fragment—strewncourtbeyondtheParthenon。Itstartledus，everynowandthen，toseeastonywhitefacestaresuddenlyupatusoutofthegrasswithitsdeadeyes。Theplaceseemedalivewithghosts。IhalfexpectedtoseetheAthenianheroesoftwentycenturiesagoglideoutoftheshadowsandstealintotheoldtempletheyknewsowellandregardedwithsuchboundlesspride。

Thefullmoonwagridinghighinthecloudlessheavens，now。Wesaunteredcarelesslyandunthinkinglytotheedgeoftheloftybattlementsofthecitadel，andlookeddown——avision！Andsuchavision！Athensbymoonlight！

TheprophetthatthoughtthesplendorsoftheNewJerusalemwererevealedtohim，surelysawthisinstead！Itlayinthelevelplainrightunderourfeet——allspreadabroadlikeapicture——andwelookeddownuponitaswemighthavelookedfromaballoon。Wesawnosemblanceofastreet，buteveryhouse，everywindow，everyclingingvine，everyprojectionwasasdistinctandsharplymarkedasifthetimewerenoon—day;andyettherewasnoglare，noglitter，nothingharshorrepulsive——thenoiselesscitywasfloodedwiththemellowestlightthateverstreamedfromthemoon，andseemedlikesomelivingcreaturewrappedinpeacefulslumber。Onitsfurthersidewasalittletemple，whosedelicatepillarsandornatefrontglowedwitharichlustrethatchainedtheeyelikeaspell;andnearerby，thepalaceofthekingreareditscreamywallsoutofthemidstofagreatgardenofshrubberythatwasfleckedalloverwitharandomshowerofamberlights——asprayofgoldensparksthatlosttheirbrightnessinthegloryofthemoon，andglintedsoftlyupontheseaofdarkfoliagelikethepallidstarsofthemilky—way。Overheadthestatelycolumns，majesticstillintheirruin——underfootthedreamingcity——inthedistancethesilversea——notonthebroadearthisthereanotherpicturehalfsobeautiful！

Asweturnedandmovedagainthroughthetemple，Iwishedthattheillustriousmenwhohadsatinitintheremoteagescouldvisititagainandrevealthemselvestoourcuriouseyes——Plato，Aristotle，Demosthenes，Socrates，Phocion，Pythagoras，Euclid，Pindar，Xenophon，Herodotus，PraxitelesandPhidias，Zeuxisthepainter。Whataconstellationofcelebratednames！

Butmorethanall，IwishedthatoldDiogenes，gropingsopatientlywithhislantern，searchingsozealouslyforonesolitaryhonestmaninalltheworld，mightmeanderalongandstumbleonourparty。Ioughtnottosayit，maybe，butstillIsupposehewouldhaveputouthislight。

WelefttheParthenontokeepitswatchoveroldAthens，asithadkeptitfortwenty—threehundredyears，andwentandstoodoutsidethewallsofthecitadel。Inthedistancewastheancient，butstillalmostperfectTempleofTheseus，andcloseby，lookingtothewest，wastheBema，fromwhenceDemosthenesthunderedhisphilippicsandfiredthewaveringpatriotismofhiscountrymen。TotherightwasMarsHill，wheretheAreopagussatinancienttimes。andwhereSt。Pauldefinedhisposition，andbelowwasthemarket—placewherehe"disputeddaily"withthegossip—lovingAthenians。

WeclimbedthestonestepsSt。Paulascended，andstoodinthesquare—cutplacehestoodin，andtriedtorecollecttheBibleaccountoftbematter——butforcertainreasons，Icouldnotrecallthewords。Ihavefoundthemsince:"NowwhilePaulwaitedforthematAthens，hisspiritwasstirredinhim，whenhesawthecitywhollygivenuptoidolatry。"ThereforedisputedheinthesynagoguewiththeJews，andwiththedevoutpersons，andinthemarketdailywiththemthatmetwithhim。*********"AndtheytookhimandbroughthimuntoAreopagus，saying，Mayweknowwhatthisnewdoctrinewhereofthouspeakestis？*********"ThenPaulstoodinthemidstofMarshill，andsaid，YemenofAthens，Iperceivethatinallthingsyearetoosuperstitious;"ForasIpassedbyandbeheldyourdevotions，Ifoundanaltarwiththisinscription:ToTHEUNKNOWNGOD。Whom，therefore，yeignorantlyworship，himdeclareIuntoyou。"——Acts，ch。xvii。"Itoccurredtous，afterawhile，thatifwewantedtogethomebeforedaylightbetrayedus，wehadbetterbemoving。Sowehurriedaway。Whenfaronourroad，wehadapartingviewoftheParthenon，withthemoonlightstreamingthroughitsopencolonnadesandtouchingitscapitalswithsilver。

Asitlookedthen，solemn，grand，andbeautifulitwillalwaysremaininourmemories。

Aswemarchedalong，webegantogetoverourfears，andceasedtocaremuchaboutquarantinescoutsoranybodyelse。Wegrewboldandreckless;

andonce，inasuddenburstofcourage，Ieventhrewastoneatadog。

Itwasapleasantreflection，though，thatIdidnothithim，becausehismastermightjustpossiblyhavebeenapoliceman。Inspiredbythishappyfailure，myvalorbecameutterlyuncontrollable，andatintervalsIabsolutelywhistled，thoughonamoderatekey。Butboldnessbreedsboldness，andshortlyIplungedintoaVineyard，inthefulllightofthemoon，andcapturedagallonofsuperbgrapes，notevenmindingthepresenceofapeasantwhorodebyonamule。DennyandBirchfollowedmyexample。NowIhadgrapesenoughforadozen，butthenJacksonwasallswollenupwithcourage，too，andhewasobligedtoenteravineyardpresently。Thefirstbunchheseizedbroughttrouble。Afrowsy，beardedbrigandsprangintotheroadwithashout，andflourishedamusketinthelightofthemoon！WesidledtowardthePiræus——notrunningyouunderstand，butonlyadvancingwithcelerity。

Thebrigandshoutedagain，butstillweadvanced。Itwasgettinglate，andwehadnotimetofoolawayoneveryassthatwantedtodrivelGreekplatitudestous。Wewouldjustassoonhavetalkedwithhimasnotifwehadnotbeeninahurry。PresentlyDennysaid，"Thosefellowsarefollowingus！"

Weturned，and，sureenough，theretheywere——threefantasticpiratesarmedwithguns。Weslackenedourpacetoletthemcomeup，andinthemeantimeIgotoutmycargoofgrapesanddroppedthemfirmlybutreluctantlyintotheshadowsbythewayside。ButIwasnotafraid。Ionlyfeltthatitwasnotrighttostealgrapes。Andallthemoresowhentheownerwasaround——andnotonlyaround，butwithhisfriendsaroundalso。ThevillainscameupandsearchedabundleDr。Birchhadinhishand，andscowleduponhimwhentheyfoundithadnothinginitbutsomeholyrocksfromMarsHill，andthesewerenotcontraband。Theyevidentlysuspectedhimofplayingsomewretchedfrauduponthem，andseemedhalfinclinedtoscalptheparty。

Butfinallytheydismisseduswithawarning，couchedinexcellentGreek，Isuppose，anddroppedtranquillyinourwake。Whentheyhadgonethreehundredyardstheystopped，andwewentonrejoiced。Butbehold，anotherarmedrascalcameoutoftheshadowsandtooktheirplace，andfollowedustwohundredyards。Thenhedeliveredusovertoanothermiscreant，whoemergedfromsomemysteriousplace，andheinturntoanother！Foramileandahalfourrearwasguardedallthewhilebyarmedmen。Inevertraveledinsomuchstatebeforeinallmylife。

Itwasagoodwhileafterthatbeforeweventuredtostealanymoregrapes，andwhenwedidwestirredupanothertroublesomebrigand，andthenweceasedallfurtherspeculationinthatline。Isupposethatfellowthatrodebyonthemulepostedallthesentinels，fromAthenstothePiræus，aboutus。

Everyfieldonthatlongroutewaswatchedbyanarmedsentinel，someofwhomhadfallenasleep，nodoubt，butwereonhand，nevertheless。ThisshowswhatsortofacountrymodernAtticais——acommunityofquestionablecharacters。Thesemenwerenottheretoguardtheirpossessionsagainststrangers，butagainsteachother;forstrangersseldomvisitAthensandthePiræus，andwhentheydo，theygoindaylight，andcanbuyallthegrapestheywantforatrifle。Themoderninhabitantsareconfiscatorsandfalsifiersofhighrepute，ifgossipspeakstrulyconcerningthem，andIfreelybelieveitdoes。

JustastheearliesttingesofthedawnflushedtheeasternskyandturnedthepillaredParthenontoabrokenharphunginthepearlyhorizon，weclosedourthirteenthmileofweary，round—aboutmarching，andemergeduponthesea—shoreabreasttheships，withourusualescortoffifteenhundredPiræandogshowlingatourheels。Wehailedaboatthatwastwoorthreehundredyardsfromshore，anddiscoveredinamomentthatitwasapolice—boatonthelookoutforanyquarantine—breakersthatmightchancetobeabroad。Sowedodged——wewereusedtothatbythistime——andwhenthescoutsreachedthespotwehadsolatelyoccupied，wewereabsent。

Theycruisedalongtheshore，butinthewrongdirection，andshortlyourownboatissuedfromthegloomandtookusaboard。Theyhadheardoursignalontheship。Werowednoiselesslyaway，andbeforethepolice—boatcameinsightagain，weweresafeathomeoncemore。

FourmoreofourpassengerswereanxioustovisitAthens，andstartedhalfanhourafterwereturned;buttheyhadnotbeenashorefiveminutestillthepolicediscoveredandchasedthemsohotlythattheybarelyescapedtotheirboatagain，andthatwasall。Theypursuedtheenterprisenofurther。

WesetsailforConstantinopleto—day，butsomeofuslittlecareforthat。WehaveseenalltherewastoseeintheoldcitythathaditsbirthsixteenhundredyearsbeforeChristwasborn，andwasanoldtownbeforethefoundationsofTroywerelaid——andsawitinitsmostattractiveaspect。

Wherefore，whyshouldweworry？

Twootherpassengersrantheblockadesuccessfullylastnight。Sowelearnedthismorning。Theyslippedawaysoquietlythattheywerenotmissedfromtheshipforseveralhours。TheyhadthehardihoodtomarchintothePiræusintheearlyduskandhireacarriage。Theyransomedangerofaddingtwoorthreemonths\'imprisonmenttotheothernoveltiesoftheirHolyLandPleasureExcursion。Iadmire"cheek。"*Buttheywentandcamesafely，andneverwalkedastep。*QuotationfromthePilgrims。

Chapter33

FromAthensallthroughtheislandsoftheGrecianArchipelago，wesawlittlebutforbiddingsea—wallsandbarrenhills，sometimessurmountedbythreeorfourgracefulcolumnsofsomeancienttemple，lonelyanddeserted——afittingsymbolofthedesolationthathascomeuponallGreeceintheselatterages。Wesawnoploughedfields，veryfewvillages，notreesorgrassorvegetationofanykind，scarcely，andhardlyeveranisolatedhouse。Greeceisableak，unsmilingdesert，withoutagriculture，manufacturesorcommerce，apparently。Whatsupportsitspoverty—strickenpeopleoritsGovernment，isamystery。

IsupposethatancientGreeceandmodernGreececompared，furnishthemostextravagantcontrasttobefoundinhistory。GeorgeI。，aninfantofeighteen，andascraggynestofforeignofficeholders，sitintheplacesofThemistocles，Pericles，andtheillustriousscholarsandgeneralsoftheGoldenAgeofGreece。ThefleetsthatwerethewonderoftheworldwhentheParthenonwasnew，areabeggarlyhandfuloffishing—smacksnow，andthemanlypeoplethatperformedsuchmiraclesofvaloratMarathonareonlyatribeofunconsideredslavesto—day。TheclassicIllyssushasgonedry，andsohaveallthesourcesofGrecianwealthandgreatness。

Thenationnumbersonlyeighthundredthousandsouls，andthereispovertyandmiseryandmendacityenoughamongthemtofurnishfortymillionsandbeliberalaboutit。UnderKingOthotherevenuesoftheStatewerefivemillionsofdollars——raisedfromataxofone—tenthofalltheagriculturalproductsoftheland（whichtenththefarmerhadtobringtotheroyalgranariesonpack—mulesanydistancenotexceedingsixleagues）

andfromextravaganttaxesontradeandcommerce。Outofthatfivemillionsthesmalltyranttriedtokeepanarmyoftenthousandmen，payallthehundredsofuselessGrandEquerriesinWaiting，FirstGroomsoftheBedchamber，LordHighChancellorsoftheExplodedExchequer，andalltheotherabsurditieswhichthesepuppy—kingdomsindulgein，inimitationofthegreatmonarchies;

andinadditionhesetaboutbuildingawhitemarblepalacetocostaboutfivemillionsitself。Theresultwas，simply:tenintofivegoesnotimesandnoneover。Allthesethingscouldnotbedonewithfivemillions，andOthofellintotrouble。

TheGreekthrone，withitsunpromisingadjunctsofaraggedpopulationofingeniousrascalswhowereoutofemploymenteightmonthsintheyearbecausetherewaslittleforthemtoborrowandlesstoconfiscate，andawasteofbarrenhillsandweed—growndeserts，wentbeggingforagoodwhile。ItwasofferedtooneofVictoria\'ssons，andafterwardstovariousotheryoungersonsofroyaltywhohadnothronesandwereoutofbusiness，buttheyallhadthecharitytodeclinethedrearyhonor，andvenerationenoughforGreece\'sancientgreatnesstorefusetomockhersorrowfulragsanddirtwithatinselthroneinthisdayofherhumiliation——tilltheycametothisyoungDanishGeorge，andhetookit。HehasfinishedthesplendidpalaceIsawintheradiantmoonlighttheothernight，andisdoingmanyotherthingsforthesalvationofGreece，theysay。

WesailedthroughthebarrenArchipelago，andintothenarrowchanneltheysometimescalltheDardanellesandsometimestheHellespont。Thispartofthecountryisrichinhistoricreminiscences，andpoorasSaharaineverythingelse。Forinstance，asweapproachedtheDardanelles，wecoastedalongthePlainsofTroyandpastthemouthoftheScamander;wesawwhereTroyhadstood（inthedistance，）andwhereitdoesnotstandnow——acitythatperishedwhentheworldwasyoung。ThepoorTrojansarealldead，now。TheywereborntoolatetoseeNoah\'sark，anddiedtoosoontoseeourmenagerie。WesawwhereAgamemnon\'sfleetsrendezvoused，andawayinlandamountainwhichthemapsaidwasMountIda。WithintheHellespontwesawwheretheoriginalfirstshoddycontractmentionedinhistorywascarriedout，andthe"partiesofthesecondpart"gentlyrebukedbyXerxes。IspeakofthefamousbridgeofboatswhichXerxesorderedtobebuiltoverthenarrowestpartoftheHellespont（whereitisonlytwoorthreemileswide。）Amoderategaledestroyedtheflimsystructure，andtheKing，thinkingthattopubliclyrebukethecontractorsmighthaveagoodeffectonthenextset，calledthemoutbeforethearmyandhadthembeheaded。Inthenexttenminutesheletanewcontractforthebridge。

Ithasbeenobservedbyancientwritersthatthesecondbridgewasaverygoodbridge。Xerxescrossedhishostoffivemillionsofmenonit，andifithadnotbeenpurposelydestroyed，itwouldprobablyhavebeenthereyet。IfourGovernmentwouldrebukesomeofourshoddycontractorsoccasionally，itmightworkmuchgood。IntheHellespontwesawwhereLeanderandLordByronswamacross，theonetoseeheruponwhomhissoul\'saffectionswerefixedwithadevotionthatonlydeathcouldimpair，andtheothermerelyforaflyer，asJacksays。Wehadtwonotedtombsnearus，too。OnoneshoresleptAjax，andontheotherHecuba。

WehadwaterbatteriesandfortsonbothsidesoftheHellespont，flyingthecrimsonflagofTurkey，withitswhitecrescent，andoccasionallyavillage，andsometimesatrainofcamels;wehadallthesetolookattillweenteredthebroadseaofMarmora，andthenthelandsoonfadingfromview，weresumedeuchreandwhistoncemore。

WedroppedanchorinthemouthoftheGoldenHornatdaylightinthemorning。OnlythreeorfourofuswereuptoseethegreatOttomancapital。

Thepassengersdonotturnoutatunseasonablehours，astheyusedto，togettheearliestpossibleglimpseofstrangeforeigncities。Theyarewelloverthat。IfwewerelyinginsightofthePyramidsofEgypt，theywouldnotcomeondeckuntilafterbreakfast，now—a—days。

TheGoldenHornisanarrowarmofthesea，whichbranchesfromtheBosporus（asortofbroadriverwhichconnectstheMarmoraandBlackSeas，）

and，curvingaround，dividesthecityinthemiddle。GalataandPeraareononesideoftheBosporus，andtheGoldenHorn;Stamboul（ancientByzantium）

isupontheother。OntheotherbankoftheBosporusisScutariandothersuburbsofConstantinople。Thisgreatcitycontainsamillioninhabitants，butsonarrowareitsstreets，andsocrowdedtogetherareitshouses，thatitdoesnotcovermuchmorethanhalfasmuchgroundasNewYorkCity。

SeenfromtheanchorageorfromamileorsouptheBosporus，itisbyfarthehandsomestcitywehaveseen。Itsdensearrayofhousesswellsupwardfromthewater\'sedge，andspreadsoverthedomesofmanyhills;

andthegardensthatpeepouthereandthere，thegreatglobesofthemosques，andthecountlessminaretsthatmeettheeyeeverywhere，investthemetropoliswiththequaintOrientalaspectonedreamsofwhenhereadsbooksofeasterntravel。Constantinoplemakesanoblepicture。

Butitsattractivenessbeginsandendswithitspicturesqueness。Fromthetimeonestartsashoretillhegetsbackagain，heexecratesit。Theboathegoesinisadmirablymiscalculatedfortheserviceitisbuiltfor。Itishandsomelyandneatlyfittedup，butnomancouldhandleitwellintheturbulentcurrentsthatsweepdowntheBosporusfromtheBlackSea，andfewmencouldrowitsatisfactorilyeveninstillwater。Itisalong，lightcanoe（caique，）largeatoneendandtaperingtoaknifebladeattheother。Theymakethatlongsharpendthebow，andyoucanimaginehowtheseboilingcurrentsspinitabout。Ithastwooars，andsometimesfour，andnorudder。Youstarttogotoagivenpointandyouruninfiftydifferentdirectionsbeforeyougetthere。Firstoneoarisbackingwater，andthentheother;itisseldomthatbotharegoingaheadatonce。Thiskindofboatingiscalculatedtodriveanimpatientmanmadinaweek。Theboatmenaretheawkwardest，thestupidest，andthemostunscientificonearth，withoutquestion。

Ashore，itwas——well，itwasaneternalcircus。Peoplewerethickerthanbees，inthosenarrowstreets，andthemenweredressedinalltheoutrageous，outlandish，idolatrous，extrava—gant，thunder—and—lightningcostumesthateveratailorwiththedeliriumtremensandsevendevilscouldconceiveof。Therewasnofreakindresstoocrazytobeindulgedin;noabsurditytooabsurdtobetolerated;nofrenzyinraggeddiabolismtoofantastictobeattempted。Notwomenweredressedalike。Itwasawildmasqueradeofallimaginablecostumes——everystrugglingthrongineverystreetwasadissolvingviewofstunningcontrasts。Somepatriarchsworeawfulturbans，butthegrandmassoftheinfidelhordeworethefieryredskull—captheycallafez。Alltheremainderoftheraimenttheyindulgedinwasutterlyindescribable。

Theshopsherearemerecoops，mereboxes，bath—rooms，closets——anythingyoupleasetocallthem——onthefirstfloor。TheTurkssitcross—leggedinthem，andworkandtradeandsmokelongpipes，andsmelllike——likeTurks。Thatcoverstheground。Crowdingthenarrowstreetsinfrontofthemarebeggars，whobegforever，yetnevercollectanything;andwonderfulcripples，distortedoutofallsemblanceofhumanity，almost;vagabondsdrivingladenasses;porterscarryingdrygoodsboxesaslargeascottagesontheirbacks;peddlersofgrapes，hotcorn，pumpkinseeds，andahundredotherthings，yellinglikefiends;andsleepinghappily，comfortably，serenely，amongthehurryingfeet，arethefameddogsofConstantinople;driftingnoiselesslyaboutaresquadsofTurkishwomen，drapedfromchintofeetinflowingrobes，andwithsnowyveilsboundabouttheirheads，thatdiscloseonlytheeyesandavague，shadowynotionoftheirfeatures。Seenmovingabout，farawayinthedim，archedaislesoftheGreatBazaar，theylookastheshroudeddeadmusthavelookedwhentheywalkedforthfromtheirgravesamidthestormsandthundersandearthquakesthatburstuponCalvarythatawfulnightoftheCrucifixion。AstreetinConstantinopleisapicturewhichoneoughttoseeonce——notoftener。

Andthentherewasthegoose—rancher——afellowwhodroveahundredgeesebeforehimaboutthecity，andtriedtosellthem。Hehadapoletenfeetlong，withacrookintheendofit，andoccasionallyagoosewouldbranchoutfromtheflockandmakealivelybreakaroundthecorner，withwingshalfliftedandneckstretchedtoitsutmost。Didthegoose—merchantgetexcited？No。Hetookhispoleandreachedafterthatgoosewithunspeakablesangfroid——tookahitchroundhisneck，and"yanked"himbacktohisplaceintheflockwithoutaneffort。Hesteeredhisgeesewiththatstickaseasilyasanothermanwouldsteerayawl。Afewhoursafterwardwesawhimsittingonastoneatacorner，inthemidstoftheturmoil，soundasleepinthesun，withhisgeesesquattingaroundhim，ordodgingoutofthewayofassesandmen。Wecamebyagain，withinthehour，andhewastakingaccountofstock，toseewhetheranyofhisflockhadstrayedorbeenstolen。Thewayhediditwasunique。Heputtheendofhisstickwithinsixoreightinchesofastonewall，andmadethegeesemarchinsinglefilebetweenitandthewall。Hecountedthemastheywentby。Therewasnododgingthatarrangement。