第8章

Helefthiscarriageandwentintoit。Hewastheonlypersonthere，andsohehadplentyofroom，andthesituationbeingcentral，hecouldseeallthepreparationsgoingonaboutthefield。Byandbytherewasasoundofmusic，andsoontheEmperoroftheFrenchandtheEmperorofAustria，escortedbythefamousCentGardes，enteredtheenclosure。Theyseemednottoobservehim，butdirectly，inresponsetoasignfromthecommanderoftheguard，ayounglieutenantcametowardhimwithafileofhismenfollowing，halted，raisedhishand，andgavethemilitarysalute，andthensaidinalowvoicethathewassorrytohavetodisturbastrangerandagentleman，buttheplacewassacredtoroyalty。ThenthisNewJerseyphantomroseupandbowedandbeggedpardon，thenwiththeofficerbesidehim，thefileofmenmarchingbehindhim，andwitheverymarkofrespect，hewasescortedtohiscarriagebytheimperialCentGardes！Theofficersalutedagainandfellback，theNewJerseyspritebowedinreturnandhadpresenceofmindenoughtopretendthathehadsimplycalledonamatterofprivatebusinesswiththoseemperors，andsowavedthemanadieuanddrovefromthefield！

ImagineapoorFrenchmanignorantlyintrudinguponapublicrostrumsacredtosomesixpennydignitaryinAmerica。Thepolicewouldscarehimtodeathfirstwithastormoftheirelegantblasphemy，andthenpullhimtopiecesgettinghimawayfromthere。WearemeasurablysuperiortotheFrenchinsomethings，buttheyareimmeasurablyourbettersinothers。

EnoughofParisforthepresent。Wehavedoneourwholedutybyit。

WehaveseentheTuileries，theNapoleonColumn，theMadeleine，thatwonderofwondersthetombofNapoleon，allthegreatchurchesandmuseums，libraries，imperialpalaces，andsculptureandpicturegalleries，thePanthéon，JardindesPlantes，theopera，thecircus，thelegislativebody，thebilliardrooms，thebarbers，thegrisettes——

Ah，thegrisettes！Ihadalmostforgotten。Theyareanotherromanticfraud。Theywere（ifyouletthebooksoftraveltellit）alwayssobeautiful——soneatandtrim，sograceful——sonaiveandtrusting——sogentle，sowinning——sofaithfultotheirshopduties，soirresistibletobuyersintheirprattlingimportunity——sodevotedtotheirpoverty—strickenstudentsoftheLatinQuarter——solightheartedandhappyontheirSundaypicnicsinthesuburbs——andoh，socharmingly，sodelightfullyimmoral！

StuffIForthreeorfourdaysIwasconstantlysaying:

"Quick，Ferguson！Isthatagrisette？"

Andhealwayssaid，"No。"

HecomprehendedatlastthatIwantedtoseeagrisette。Thenheshowedmedozensofthem。TheywerelikenearlyalltheFrenchwomenIeversaw——homely。

Theyhadlargehands，largefeet，largemouths;theyhadpugnosesasageneralthing，andmoustachesthatnotevengoodbreedingcouldoverlook;

theycombedtheirhairstraightbackwithoutparting;theywereill—shaped，theywerenotwinning，theywerenotgraceful;Iknewbytheirlooksthattheyategarlicandonions;andlastlyandfinally，tomythinkingitwouldbebaseflatterytocallthemimmoral。

Arointthee，wench！IsorrowforthevagabondstudentoftheLatinQuarternow，evenmorethanformerlyIenviedhim。Thustopplestoearthanotheridolofmyinfancy。

Wehaveseeneverything，andtomorrowwegotoVersailles。WeshallseeParisonlyforalittlewhileaswecomebacktotakeupourlineofmarchfortheship，andsoImayaswellbidthebeautifulcityaregretfulfarewell。Weshalltravelmanythousandsofmilesafterweleavehereandvisitmanygreatcities，butweshallfindnonesoenchantingasthis。

SomeofourpartyhavegonetoEngland，intendingtotakearoundaboutcourseandrejointhevesselatLeghornorNaplesseveralweekshence。

WecameneargoingtoGeneva，buthaveconcludedtoreturntoMarseillesandgoupthroughItalyfromGenoa。

IwillconcludethischapterwitharemarkthatIamsincerelyproudtobeabletomake——andglad，aswell，thatmycomradescordiallyendorseit，towit:byfarthehandsomestwomenwehaveseeninFrancewerebornandrearedinAmerica。

Ifeelnowlikeamanwhohasredeemedafailingreputationandshedlusteruponadimmedescutcheonbyasinglejustdeeddoneattheeleventhhour。

Letthecurtainfall，toslowmusic。

Chapter16

Versailles！Itiswonderfullybeautiful！Yougazeandstareandtrytounderstandthatitisreal，thatitisontheearth，thatitisnottheGardenofEden——butyourbraingrowsgiddy，stupefiedbytheworldofbeautyaroundyou，andyouhalfbelieveyouarethedupeofanexquisitedream。Thescenethrillsonelikemilitarymusic！Anoblepalace，stretchingitsornamentedfront，blockuponblockaway，tillitseemedthatitwouldneverend;agrandpromenadebeforeit，whereonthearmiesofanempiremightparade;allaboutitrainbowsofflowers，andcolossalstatuesthatwerealmostnumberlessandyetseemedonlyscatteredovertheamplespace;

broadflightsofstonestepsleadingdownfromthepromenadetolowergroundsofthepark——stairwaysthatwholeregimentsmightstandtoarmsuponandhaveroomtospare;vastfountainswhosegreatbronzeeffigiesdischargedriversofsparklingwaterintotheairandmingledahundredcurvingjetstogetherinformsofmatchlessbeauty;widegrass—carpetedavenuesthatbranchedhitherandthitherineverydirectionandwanderedtoseeminglyinterminabledistances，walledallthewayoneithersidewithcompactranksofleafytreeswhosebranchesmetaboveandformedarchesasfaultlessandassymmetricalaseverwerecarvedinstone;andhereandtherewereglimpsesofsylvanlakeswithminiatureshipsglassedintheirsurfaces。

Andeverywhere——onthepalacesteps，andthegreatpromenade，aroundthefountains，amongthetrees，andfarunderthearchesoftheendlessavenues——hundredsandhundredsofpeopleingaycostumeswalkedorranordanced，andgavetothefairypicturethelifeandanimationwhichwasallofperfectionitcouldhavelacked。

Itwasworthapilgrimagetosee。Everythingisonsogiganticascale。

Nothingissmall——nothingischeap。Thestatuesarealllarge;thepalaceisgrand;theparkcoversafair—sizedcounty;theavenuesareinterminable。

AllthedistancesandallthedimensionsaboutVersaillesarevast。Iusedtothinkthepicturesexaggeratedthesedistancesandthesedimensionsbeyondallreason，andthattheymadeVersaillesmorebeautifulthanitwaspossibleforanyplaceintheworldtobe。Iknownowthatthepicturesnevercameuptothesubjectinanyrespect，andthatnopaintercouldrepresentVersaillesoncanvasasbeautifulasitisinreality。IusedtoabuseLouisXIVforspendingtwohundredmillionsofdollarsincreatingthismarvelousparkwhenbreadwassoscarcewithsomeofhissubjects，butIhaveforgivenhimnow。HetookatractoflandsixtymilesincircumferenceandsettoworktomakethisparkandbuildthispalaceandaroadtoitfromParis。Hekept36，000menemployeddailyonit，andthelaborwassounhealthythattheyusedtodieandbehauledoffbycartloadseverynight。Thewifeofanoblemanofthetimespeaksofthisasan"inconvenience，"butnaïvelyremarksthat"itdoesnotseemworthyofattentioninthehappystateoftranquillitywenowenjoy。"Ialwaysthoughtillofpeopleathomewhotrimmedtheirshrubberyintopyramidsandsquaresandspiresandallmannerofunnaturalshapes，andwhenIsawthesamethingbeingpracticedinthisgreatparkIbegantofeeldissatisfied。

ButIsoonsawtheideaofthethingandthewisdomofit。Theyseekthegeneraleffect。Wedistortadozensicklytreesintounaccustomedshapesinalittleyardnobiggerthanadiningroom，andthensurelytheylookabsurdenough。Butheretheytaketwohundredthousandtallforesttreesandsettheminadoublerow;allownosignofleaforbranchtogrowonthetrunklowerdownthansixfeetabovetheground;fromthatpointtheboughsbegintoproject，andverygraduallytheyextendoutwardfurtherandfurthertilltheymeetoverhead，andafaultlesstunneloffoliageisformed。Thearchismathematicallyprecise。Theeffectisthenveryfine。Theymaketreestakefiftydifferentshapes，andsothesequainteffectsareinfinitelyvariedandpicturesque。Thetreesinnotwoavenuesareshapedalike，andconsequentlytheeyeisnotfatiguedwithanythinginthenatureofmonotonousuniformity。Iwilldropthissubjectnow，leavingittootherstodeterminehowthesepeoplemanagetomakeendlessranksofloftyforesttreesgrowtojustacertainthicknessoftrunk（sayafootandtwo—thirds）;howtheymakethemspringtopreciselythesameheightformiles;howtheymakethemgrowsoclosetogether;howtheycompelonehugelimbtospringfromthesameidenticalspotoneachtreeandformthemainsweepofthearch;andhowallthesethingsarekeptexactlyinthesameconditionandinthesameexquisiteshapelinessandsymmetrymonthaftermonthandyearafteryear——forIhavetriedtoreasonouttheproblemandhavefailed。

WewalkedthroughthegreathallofsculptureandtheonehundredandfiftygalleriesofpaintingsinthepalaceofVersailles，andfeltthattobeinsuchaplacewasuselessunlessonehadawholeyearathisdisposal。

Thesepicturesareallbattlescenes，andonlyonesolitarylittlecanvasamongthemalltreatsofanythingbutgreatFrenchvictories。Wewandered，also，throughtheGrandTrianonandthePetitTrianon，thosemonumentsofroyalprodigality，andwithhistoriessomournful——filled，asitis，withsouvenirsofNapoleontheFirst，andthreedeadkingsandasmanyqueens。Inonesumptuousbedtheyhadallsleptinsuccession，butnooneoccupiesitnow。InalargediningroomstoodthetableatwhichLouisXIVandhismistressMadameMaintenon，andafterthemLouisXV，andPompadour，hadsatattheirmealsnakedandunattended——forthetablestooduponatrapdoor，whichdescendedwithittoregionsbelowwhenitwasnecessarytoreplenishitsdishes。InaroomofthePetitTrianonstoodthefurniture，justaspoorMarieAntoinetteleftitwhenthemobcameanddraggedherandtheKingtoParis，nevertoreturn。Nearathand，inthestables，wereprodigiouscarriagesthatshowednocolorbutgold——carriagesusedbyformerkingsofFranceonstateoccasions，andneverusednowsavewhenakinglyheadistobecrownedoranimperialinfantchristened。Andwiththemweresomecurioussleighs，whosebodieswereshapedlikelions，swans，tigers，etc。——vehiclesthathadoncebeenhandsomewithpictureddesignsandfineworkmanship，butweredustyanddecayingnow。Theyhadtheirhistory。WhenLouisXIVhadfinishedtheGrandTrianon，hetoldMaintenonhehadcreatedaparadiseforher，andaskedifshecouldthinkofanythingnowtowishfor。HesaidhewishedtheTrianontobeperfection——nothingless。Shesaidshecouldthinkofbutonething——itwassummer，anditwasbalmyFrance——yetshewouldlikewelltosleighrideintheleafyavenuesofVersailles！Thenextmorningfoundmilesandmilesofgrassyavenuesspreadthickwithsnowysaltandsugar，andaprocessionofthosequaintsleighswaitingtoreceivethechiefconcubineofthegaiestandmostunprincipledcourtthatFrancehaseverseen！

FromsumptuousVersailles，withitspalaces，itsstatues，itsgardens，anditsfountains，wejourneyedbacktoParisandsoughtitsantipodes——theFaubourgSt。Antoine。Little，narrowstreets;dirtychildrenblockadingthem;greasy，slovenlywomencapturingandspankingthem;filthydensonfirstfloors，withragstoresinthem（theheaviestbusinessintheFaubourgisthechiffonier\'s）;otherfilthydenswherewholesuitsofsecond—andthird—handclothingaresoldatpricesthatwouldruinanyproprietorwhodidnotstealhisstock;stillotherfilthydenswheretheysoldgroceries——soldthembythehalfpennyworth——fivedollarswouldbuythemanout，goodwillandall。UptheselittlecrookedstreetstheywillmurderamanforsevendollarsanddumpthebodyintheSeine。Andupsomeotherofthesestreets——mostofthem，Ishouldsay——livelorettes。

AllthroughthisFaubourgSt。Antoine，misery，poverty，vice，andcrimegohandinhand，andtheevidencesofitstareoneinthefacefromeveryside。Herethepeoplelivewhobegintherevolutions。Wheneverthereisanythingofthatkindtobedone，theyarealwaysready。TheytakeasmuchgenuinepleasureinbuildingabarricadeastheydoincuttingathroatorshovingafriendintotheSeine。Itisthesesavage—lookingruffianswhostormthesplendidhallsoftheTuileriesoccasionally，andswarmintoVersailleswhenakingistobecalledtoaccount。

Buttheywillbuildnomorebarricades;theywillbreaknomoresoldiers\'

headswithpavingstones。LouisNapoleonhastakencareofallthat。Heisannihilatingthecrookedstreetsandbuildingintheirsteadnobleboulevardsasstraightasanarrow——avenueswhichacannonballcouldtraversefromendtoendwithoutmeetinganobstructionmoreirresistiblethanthefleshandbonesofmen——boulevardswhosestatelyedificeswillneveraffordrefugesandplottingplacesforstarving，discontentedrevolutionbreeders。Fiveofthesegreatthoroughfaresradiatefromoneamplecenter——acenterwhichisexceedinglywelladaptedtotheaccommodationofheavyartillery。Themobsusedtoriotthere，buttheymustseekanotherrallyingplaceinfuture。

AndthisingeniousNapoleonpavesthestreetsofhisgreatcitieswithasmooth，compactcompositionofasphaltumandsand。Nomorebarricadesofflagstones——nomoreassaultinghismajesty\'stroopswithcobbles。I

cannotfeelfriendlytowardmyquondamfellowAmericanNapoleonIII，especiallyatthistime，*wheninfancyIseehiscredulousvictim，Maximilian，lyingstarkandstiffinMexico，andhismaniacwidowwatchingeagerlyfromherFrenchasylumfortheformthatwillnevercome——butIdoadmirehisnerve，hiscalmself—reliance，hisshrewdgoodsense。

*July，1867。

Chapter17

Wehadapleasantjourneyofitseawardagain。Wefoundthatforthethreepastnightsourshiphadbeeninastateofwar。ThefirstnightthesailorsofaBritishship，beinghappywithgrog，camedownonthepierandchallengedoursailorstoafreefight。Theyacceptedwithalacrity，repairedtothepier，andgained——theirshareofadrawnbattle。Severalbruisedandbloodymembersofbothpartieswerecarriedoffbythepoliceandimprisoneduntilthefollowingmorning。ThenextnighttheBritishboyscameagaintorenewthefight，butourmenhadhadstrictorderstoremainonboardandoutofsight。Theydidso，andthebesiegingpartygrewnoisyandmoreandmoreabusiveasthefactbecameapparent（tothem）

thatourmenwereafraidtocomeout。Theywentawayfinallywithaclosingburstofridiculeandoffensiveepithets。Thethirdnighttheycameagainandweremoreobstreperousthanever。Theyswaggeredupanddownthealmostdesertedpierandhurledcurses，obscenity，andstingingsarcasmsatourcrew。Itwasmorethanhumannaturecouldbear。Theexecutiveofficerorderedourmenashore——withinstructionsnottofight。TheychargedtheBritishandgainedabrilliantvictory。Iprobablywouldnothavementionedthiswarhaditendeddifferently。ButItraveltolearn，andIstillrememberthattheypicturenoFrenchdefeatsinthebattlegalleriesofVersailles。

Itwaslikehometoustosteponboardthecomfortableshipagainandsmokeandloungeaboutherbreezydecks。Andyetitwasnotaltogetherlikehome，either，becausesomanymembersofthefamilywereaway。Wemissedsomepleasantfaceswhichwewouldratherhavefoundatdinner，andatnightthereweregapsintheeuchrepartieswhichcouldnotbesatisfactorilyfilled。"Moult"wasinEngland，JackinSwitzerland，CharleyinSpain。

Blucherwasgone，nonecouldtellwhere。Butwewereatseaagain，andwehadthestarsandtheoceantolookat，andplentyofroomtomeditatein。

InduetimetheshoresofItalyweresighted，andaswestoodgazingfromthedecks，earlyinthebrightsummermorning，thestatelycityofGenoaroseupoutoftheseaandflungbackthesunlightfromherhundredpalaces。

Herewerestforthepresent——orrather，herewehavebeentryingtorest，forsomelittletime，butwerunabouttoomuchtoaccomplishagreatdealinthatline。

Iwouldliketoremainhere。Ihadrathernotgoanyfurther。TheremaybeprettierwomeninEurope，butIdoubtit。ThepopulationofGenoais120，000;two—thirdsofthesearewomen，Ithink，andatleasttwo—thirdsofthewomenarebeautiful。Theyareasdressyandastastefulandasgracefulastheycouldpossiblybewithoutbeingangels。However，angelsarenotverydressy，Ibelieve。Atleasttheangelsinpicturesarenot——theywearnothingbutwings。ButtheseGenoesewomendolooksocharming。Mostoftheyoungdemoisellesarerobedinacloudofwhitefromheadtofoot，thoughmanytrickthemselvesoutmoreelaborately。Nine—tenthsofthemwearnothingontheirheadsbutafilmysortofveil，whichfallsdowntheirbackslikeawhitemist。Theyareveryfair，andmanyofthemhaveblueeyes，butblackanddreamydarkbrownonesaremetwithoftenest。

TheladiesandgentlemenofGenoahaveapleasantfashionofpromenadinginalargeparkonthetopofahillinthecenterofthecity，fromsixtillnineintheevening，andtheneatingicesinaneighboringgardenanhourortwolonger。WewenttotheparkonSundayevening。Twothousandpersonswerepresent，chieflyyoungladiesandgentlemen。ThegentlemenweredressedintheverylatestParisfashions，andtherobesoftheladiesglintedamongthetreeslikesomanysnowflakes。Themultitudemovedroundandroundtheparkinagreatprocession。Thebandsplayed，andsodidthefountains;themoonandthegaslampslitupthescene，andaltogetheritwasabrilliantandananimatedpicture。Iscannedeveryfemalefacethatpassed，anditseemedtomethatallwerehandsome。Ineversawsuchafreshetoflovelinessbefore。Ididnotseehowamanofonlyordinarydecisionofcharactercouldmarryhere，becausebeforehecouldgethismindmadeuphewouldfallinlovewithsomebodyelse。

NeversmokeanyItaliantobacco。Neverdoitonanyaccount。Itmakesmeshuddertothinkwhatitmustbemadeof。Youcannotthrowanoldcigar"stub"downanywhere，butsomevagabondwillpounceuponitontheinstant。

Iliketosmokeagooddeal，butitwoundsmysensibilitiestoseeoneofthesestub—hunterswatchingmeoutofthecomersofhishungryeyesandcalculatinghowlongmycigarwillbelikelytolast。ItremindedmetoopainfullyofthatSanFranciscoundertakerwhousedtogotosickbedswithhiswatchinhishandandtimethecorpse。Oneofthesestub—huntersfollowedusallovertheparklastnight，andweneverhadasmokethatwasworthanything。Wewerealwaysmovedtoappeasehimwiththestubbeforethecigarwashalfgone，becausehelookedsoviciouslyanxious。Heregardedusashisownlegitimateprey，byrightofdiscovery，Ithink，becausehedroveoffseveralotherprofessionalswhowantedtotakestockinus。

Now，theysurelymustchewupthoseoldstubsanddryandsellthemforsmokingtobacco。Therefore，giveyourcustomtootherthanItalianbrandsofthearticle。

"TheSuperb"andthe"CityofPalaces"arenameswhichGenoahasheldforcenturies。Sheisfullofpalaces，certainly，andthepalacesaresumptuousinside，buttheyareveryrustywithoutandmakenopretensionstoarchitecturalmagnificence。"GenoatheSuperb"wouldbeafelicitoustitleifitreferredtothewomen。

Wehavevisitedseveralofthepalaces——immensethick—walledpiles，withgreatstonestaircases，tessellatedmarblepavementonthefloors（sometimestheymakeamosaicworkofintricatedesigns，wroughtinpebblesorlittlefragmentsofmarblelaidincement），andgrandsalonshungwithpicturesbyRubens，Guido，Titian，PaulVeronese，andsoon，andportraitsofheadsofthefamilyinplumedhelmetsandgallantcoatsofmail，andpatricianladiesinstunningcostumesofcenturiesago。But，ofcourse，thefolkswerealloutinthecountryforthesummer，andmightnothaveknownenoughtoaskustodinneriftheyhadbeenathome，andsoallthegrandemptysalons，withtheirresoundingpavements，theirgrimpicturesofdeadancestors，andtatteredbannerswiththedustofbygonecenturiesuponthemseemedtobroodsolemnlyofdeathandthegrave，andourspiritsebbedaway，andourcheerfulnesspassedfromus。Weneverwentuptotheeleventhstory。Wealwaysbegantosuspectghosts。Therewasalwaysanundertaker—lookingservantalong，too，whohandedusaprogram，pointedtothepicturethatbeganthelistofthesalonhewasin，andthenstoodstiffandstarkandunsmilinginhispetrifiedliverytillwewerereadytomoveontothenextchamber，whereuponhemarchedsadlyaheadandtookupanothermalignantlyrespectfulpositionasbefore。I

wastedsomuchtimeprayingthattheroofwouldfallinonthesedispiritingflunkiesthatIhadbutlittlelefttobestowuponpalaceandpictures。

Andbesides，asinParis，wehadaguide。Perditioncatchalltheguides。

ThisonesaidhewasthemostgiftedlinguistinGenoa，asfarasEnglishwasconcerned，andthatonlytwopersonsinthecitybesidehimselfcouldtalkthelanguageatall。HeshowedusthebirthplaceofChristopherColumbus，andafterwehadreflectedinsilentawebeforeitforfifteenminutes，hesaiditwasnotthebirthplaceofColumbus，butofColumbus\'grandmother！

WhenwedemandedanexplanationofhisconductheonlyshruggedhisshouldersandansweredinbarbarousItalian。Ishallspeakfurtherofthisguideinafuturechapter。Alltheinformationwegotoutofhimweshallbeabletocarryalongwithus，Ithink。

IhavenotbeentochurchsoofteninalongtimeasIhaveinthelastfewweeks。Thepeopleintheseoldlandsseemtomakechurchestheirspecialty。

EspeciallydoesthisseemtobethecasewiththecitizensofGenoa。I

thinkthereisachurcheverythreeorfourhundredyardsallovertown。

Thestreetsaresprinkledfromendtoendwithshovel—hatted，long—robed，well—fedpriests，andthechurchbellsbydozensarepealingallthedaylong，nearly。Everynowandthenonecomesacrossafriarofordersgray，withshavenhead，long，coarserobe，ropegirdleandbeads，andwithfeetcasedinsandalsorentirelybare。Theseworthiessufferinthefleshanddopenancealltheirlives，Isuppose，buttheylooklikeconsummatefamine—breeders。

Theyareallfatandserene。

TheoldCathedralofSanLorenzoisaboutasnotableabuildingaswehavefoundinGenoa。Itisvast，andhascolonnadesofnoblepillars，andagreatorgan，andthecustomarypompofgildedmoldings，pictures，frescoedceilings，andsoforth。Icannotdescribeit，ofcourse——itwouldrequireagoodmanypagestodothat。Butitisacuriousplace。Theysaidthathalfofit——fromthefrontdoorhalfwaydowntothealtar——wasaJewishsynagoguebeforetheSaviourwasborn，andthatnoalterationhadbeenmadeinitsincethattime。Wedoubtedthestatement，butdiditreluctantly。

Wewouldmuchratherhavebelievedit。Theplacelookedintooperfectrepairtobesoancient。

ThemainpointofinterestaboutthecathedralisthelittleChapelofSt。JohntheBaptist。Theyonlyallowwomentoenteritononedayintheyear，onaccountoftheanimositytheystillcherishagainstthesexbecauseofthemurderofthesainttogratifyacapriceofHerodias。Inthischapelisamarblechest，inwhich，theytoldus，weretheashesofSt。John;andarounditwaswoundachain，which，theysaid，hadconfinedhimwhenhewasinprison。Wedidnotdesiretodisbelievethesestatements，andyetwecouldnotfeelcertainthattheywerecorrect——partlybecausewecouldhavebrokenthatchain，andsocouldSt。John，andpartlybecausewehadseenSt。John\'sashesbefore，inanotherchurch。WecouldnotbringourselvestothinkSt。Johnhadtwosetsofashes。

TheyalsoshowedusaportraitoftheMadonnawhichwaspaintedbySt。

Luke，anditdidnotlookhalfasoldandsmokyassomeofthepicturesbyRubens。WecouldnothelpadmiringtheApostle\'smodestyinneveroncementioninginhiswritingsthathecouldpaint。

Butisn\'tthisrelicmatteralittleoverdone？Wefindapieceofthetruecrossineveryoldchurchwegointo，andsomeofthenailsthatheldittogether。Iwouldnotliketobepositive，butIthinkwehaveseenasmuchasakegofthesenails。Thenthereisthecrownofthorns;theyhavepartofoneinSainteChapelle，inParis，andpartofonealsoinNotreDame。AndasforbonesofSt。Denis，Ifeelcertainwehaveseenenoughofthemtoduplicatehimifnecessary。

Ionlymeanttowriteaboutthechurches，butIkeepwanderingfromthesubject。IcouldsaythattheChurchoftheAnnunciationisawildernessofbeautifulcolumns，ofstatues，gildedmoldings，andpicturesalmostcountless，butthatwouldgivenooneanentirelyperfectideaofthething，andsowhereistheuse？Onefamilybuiltthewholeedificeandhavegotmoneyleft。Thereiswherethemysterylies。Wehadanideaatfirstthatonlyamintcouldhavesurvivedtheexpense。

Thesepeoplehereliveintheheaviest，highest，broadest，darkest，solidesthousesonecanimagine。Eachonemight"laughasiegetoscorn。"

Ahundredfeetfrontandahundredhighisaboutthestyle，andyougoupthreeflightsofstairsbeforeyoubegintocomeuponsignsofoccupancy。

Everythingisstone，andstoneoftheheaviest——floors，stairways，mantels，benches——everything。Thewallsarefourtofivefeetthick。Thestreetsgenerallyarefourorfivetoeightfeetwideandascrookedasacorkscrew。

Yougoalongoneofthesegloomycracks，andlookupandbeholdtheskylikeamereribbonoflight，faraboveyourhead，wherethetopsofthetallhousesoneithersideofthestreetbendalmosttogether。Youfeelasifyouwereatthebottomofsometremendousabyss，withalltheworldfaraboveyou。Youwindinandoutandhereandthere，inthemostmysteriousway，andhavenomoreideaofthepointsofthecompassthanifyouwereablindman。Youcanneverpersuadeyourselfthattheseareactuallystreets，andthefrowning，dingy，monstroushousesdwellings，tillyouseeoneofthesebeautiful，prettilydressedwomenemergefromthem——seeheremergefromadark，dreary—lookingdenthatlooksdungeonallover，fromthegroundawayhalfwayupt6heaven。Andthenyouwonderthatsuchacharmingmothcouldcomefromsuchaforbiddingshellasthat。Thestreetsarewiselymadenarrowandthehousesheavyandthickandstony，inorderthatthepeoplemaybecoolinthisroastingclimate。Andtheyarecool，andstayso。AndwhileIthinkofit——themenwearhatsandhaveverydarkcomplexions，butthewomenwearnoheadgearbutaflimsyveillikeagossamer\'sweb，andyetareexceedinglyfairasageneralthing。Singular，isn\'tit？

ThehugepalacesofGenoaareeachsupposedtobeoccupiedbyonefamily，buttheycouldaccommodateahundred，Ishouldthink。TheyarerelicsofthegrandeurofGenoa\'spalmydays——thedayswhenshewasagreatcommercialandmaritimepowerseveralcenturiesago。Thesehouses，solidmarblepalacesthoughtheybe，areinmanycasesofadullpinkishcolor，outside，andfrompavementtoeavesarepicturedwithGenoesebattlescenes，withmonstrousJupitersandCupids，andwithfamiliarillustrationsfromGrecianmythology。

Wherethepainthasyieldedtoageandexposureandispeelingoffinflakesandpatches，theeffectisnothappy。AnoselessCupidoraJupiterwithaneyeoutoraVenuswithaflyblisteronherbreastarenotattractivefeaturesinapicture。Someofthesepaintedwallsremindedmesomewhatofthetallvan，plasteredwithfancifulbillsandposters，thatfollowsthebandwagonofacircusaboutacountryvillage。IhavenotreadorheardthattheoutsidesofthehousesofanyotherEuropeancityarefrescoedinthisway。

IcannotconceiveofsuchathingasGenoainruins。Suchmassivearches，suchponderoussubstructionsassupportthesetoweringbroad—wingededifices，wehaveseldomseenbefore;andsurelythegreatblocksofstoneofwhichtheseedificesarebuiltcanneverdecay;wallsthatareasthickasanordinaryAmericandoorwayishighcannotcrumble。

TherepublicsofGenoaandPisawereverypowerfulintheMiddleAges。

TheirshipsfilledtheMediterranean，andtheycarriedonanextensivecommercewithConstantinopleandSyria。TheirwarehouseswerethegreatdistributingdepotsfromwhencethecostlymerchandiseoftheEastwassentabroadoverEurope。Theywerewarlikelittlenationsanddefied，inthosedays，governmentsthatovershadowthemnowasmountainsovershadowmolehills。TheSaracenscapturedandpillagedGenoaninehundredyearsago，butduringthefollowingcenturyGenoaandPisaenteredintoanoffensiveanddefensiveallianceandbesiegedtheSaracencoloniesinSardiniaandtheBalearicIsleswithanobstinacythatmaintaineditspristinevigorandheldtoitspurposeforfortylongyears。Theywerevictoriousatlastanddividedtheirconquestsequablyamongtheirgreatpatricianfamilies。

DescendantsofsomeofthoseproudfamiliesstillinhabitthepalacesofGenoa，andtraceintheirownfeaturesaresemblancetothegrimknightswhoseportraitshangintheirstatelyhalls，andtopicturedbeautieswithpoutinglipsandmerryeyeswhoseoriginalshavebeendustandashesformanyadeadandforgottencentury。

ThehotelweliveinbelongedtooneofthosegreatordersofknightsoftheCrossinthetimesoftheCrusades，anditsmailedsentinelsoncekeptwatchandwardinitsmassiveturretsandwoketheechoesofthesehallsandcorridorswiththeirironheels。

ButGenoa\'sgreatnesshasdegeneratedintoanunostentatiouscommerceinvelvetsandsilverfilagreework。TheysaythateachEuropeantownhasitsspecialty。ThesefilagreethingsareGenoa\'sspecialty。Hersmithstakesilveringotsandworkthemupintoallmannerofgracefulandbeautifulforms。Theymakebunchesofflowers，fromflakesandwiresofsilver，thatcounterfeitthedelicatecreationsthefrostweavesuponawindowpane;

andwewereshownaminiaturesilvertemplewhoseflutedcolumns，whoseCorinthiancapitalsandrichentablatures，whosespire，statues，bells，andornatelavishnessofsculpturewerewroughtinpolishedsilver，andwithsuchmatchlessartthateverydetailwasafascinatingstudyandthefinishededificeawonderofbeauty。

Wearereadytomoveagain，thoughwearenotreallytiredyetofthenarrowpassagesofthisoldmarblecave。Caveisagoodword——whenspeakingofGenoaunderthestars。Whenwehavebeenprowlingatmidnightthroughthegloomycrevicestheycallstreets，wherenofootfallsbutourswereechoing，whereonlyourselveswereabroad，andlightsappearedonlyatlongintervalsandatadistance，andmysteriouslydisappearedagain，andthehousesatourelbowsseemedtostretchupwardfartherthanevertowardtheheavens，thememoryofacaveIusedtoknowathomewasalwaysinmymind，withitsloftypassages，itssilenceandsolitude，itsshroudinggloom，itssepulchralechoes，itsflittinglights，andmorethanall，itssuddenrevelationsofbranchingcrevicesandcorridorswhereweleastexpectedthem。