The Innocents Abroad

第27章

ButIshouldnotoffertheevidencefortheprosecutionandleavethedefenseunheard。Wm。C。Grimesdeposesasfollows:——"Wehadtakenshiptogoovertotheotherside。Theseawasnotmorethansixmileswide。Ofthebeautyofthescene,however,Icannotsayenough,norcanIimaginewherethosetravelerscarriedtheireyeswhohavedescribedthesceneryofthelakeastameoruninteresting。Thefirstgreatcharacteristicofitisthedeepbasininwhichitlies。Thisisfromthreetofourhundredfeetdeeponallsidesexceptatthelowerend,andthesharpslopeofthebanks,whicharealloftherichestgreen,isbrokenanddiversifiedbythewâdysandwater—courseswhichworktheirwaydownthroughthesidesofthebasin,formingdarkchasmsorlightsunnyvalleys。NearTiberiasthesebanksarerocky,andancientsepulchresopeninthem,withtheirdoorstowardthewater。Theyselectedgrandspots,asdidtheEgyptiansofold,forburialplaces,asiftheydesignedthatwhenthevoiceofGodshouldreachthesleepers,theyshouldwalkforthandopentheireyesonscenesofgloriousbeauty。Ontheeast,thewildanddesolatemountainscontrastfinelywiththedeepbluelake;andtowardthenorth,sublimeandmajestic,Hermonlooksdownonthesea,liftinghiswhitecrowntoheavenwiththeprideofahillthathasseenthedepartingfootstepsofahundredgenerations。Onthenorth—eastshoreoftheseawasasingletree,andthisistheonlytreeofanysizevisiblefromthewaterofthelake,exceptafewlonelypalmsinthecityofTiberias,andbyitssolitarypositionattractsmoreattentionthanwouldaforest。ThewholeappearanceofthesceneispreciselywhatwewouldexpectanddesirethesceneryofGenessarettobe,grandbeauty,butquietcalm。Theverymountainsarecalm。"Itisaningeniouslywrittendescription,andwellcalculatedtodeceive。

Butifthepaintandtheribbonsandtheflowersbestrippedfromit,askeletonwillbefoundbeneath。

Sostripped,thereremainsalakesixmileswideandneutralincolor;

withsteepgreenbanks,unrelievedbyshrubbery;atoneendbare,unsightlyrocks,with(almostinvisible)holesinthemofnoconsequencetothepicture;

eastward,"wildanddesolatemountains;"(low,desolatehills,heshouldhavesaid;)inthenorth,amountaincalledHermon,withsnowonit;peculiarityofthepicture,"calmness;"itsprominentfeature,onetree。

Noingenuitycouldmakesuchapicturebeautiful——toone\'sactualvision。

Iclaimtherighttocorrectmisstatements,andhavesocorrectedthecolorofthewaterintheaboverecapitulation。ThewatersofGenessaretareofanexceedinglymildblue,evenfromahighelevationandadistanceoffivemiles。Closeathand(thewitnesswassailingonthelake,)itishardlypropertocallthemblueatall,muchless"deep"blue。Iwishtostate,also,notasacorrection,butasmatterofopinion,thatMountHermonisnotastrikingorpicturesquemountainbyanymeans,beingtooneartheheightofitsimmediateneigh—borstobeso。Thatisall。Idonotobjecttothewitnessdraggingamountainforty—fivemilestohelpthesceneryunderconsideration,becauseitisentirelypropertodoit,andbesides,thepictureneedsit。

"C。W。E。,"(of"LifeintheHolyLand,")deposesasfollows:——"AbeautifulsealiesunbosomedamongtheGalileanhills,inthemidstofthatlandoncepossessedbyZebulonandNaphtali,AsherandDan。Theazureoftheskypenetratesthedepthsofthelake,andthewatersaresweetandcool。Onthewest,stretchbroadfertileplains;onthenorththerockyshoresrisestepbystepuntilinthefardistancetowerthesnowyheightsofHermon;ontheeastthroughamistyveilareseenthehighplainsofPerea,whichstretchawayinruggedmountainsleadingthemindbyvariedpathstowardJerusalemtheHoly。Flowersbloominthisterrestrialparadise,oncebeautifulandverdantwithwavingtrees;singingbirdsenchanttheear;theturtle—dovesootheswithitssoftnote;thecrestedlarksendsupitssongtowardheaven,andthegraveandstatelystorkinspiresthemindwiththought,andleadsitontomeditationandrepose。Lifeherewasonceidyllic,charming;herewereoncenorich,nopoor,nohigh,nolow。Itwasaworldofease,simplicity,andbeauty;nowitisasceneofdesolationandmisery。"Thisisnotaningeniouspicture。ItistheworstIeversaw。Itdescribesinelaboratedetailwhatittermsa"terrestrialparadise,"andcloseswiththestartlinginformationthatthisparadiseis"asceneofdesolationandmisery。"

Ihavegiventwofair,averagespecimensofthecharacterofthetestimonyofferedbythemajorityofthewriterswhovisitthisregion。Onesays,"OfthebeautyofthesceneIcannotsayenough,"andthenproceedstocoverupwithawoofofglitteringsentencesathingwhich,whenstrippedforinspection,provestobeonlyanunobtrusivebasinofwater,somemountainousdesolation,andonetree。Theother,afteraconscientiousefforttobuildaterrestrialparadiseoutofthesamematerials,withtheadditionofa"graveandstatelystork,"spoilsitallbyblunderingupontheghastlytruthatthelast。

NearlyeverybookconcerningGalileeanditslakedescribesthesceneryasbeautiful。No——notalwayssostraightforwardasthat。Sometimestheimpressionintentionallyconveyedisthatitisbeautiful,atthesametimethattheauthoriscarefulnottosaythatitis,inplainSaxon。Butacarefulanalysisofthesedescriptionswillshowthatthematerialsofwhichtheyareformedarenotindividuallybeautifulandcannotbewroughtintocombinationsthatarebeautiful。Thevenerationandtheaffectionwhichsomeofthesemenfeltforthescenestheywerespeakingof,heatedtheirfanciesandbiasedtheirjudgment;butthepleasantfalsitiestheywrotewerefullofhonestsincerity,atanyrate。Otherswroteastheydid,becausetheyfeareditwouldbeunpopulartowriteotherwise。

Otherswerehypocritesanddeliberatelymeanttodeceive。Anyofthemwouldsayinamoment,ifasked,thatitwasalwaysrightandalwaysbesttotellthetruth。Theywouldsaythat,atanyrate,iftheydidnotperceivethedriftofthequestion。

Butwhyshouldnotthetruthbespokenofthisregion?Isthetruthharmful?Hasiteverneededtohideitsface?GodmadetheSeaofGalileeanditssurroundingsastheyare。IsittheprovinceofMr。Grimestoimproveuponthework?

Iamsure,fromthetenorofbooksIhaveread,thatmanywhohavevisitedthislandinyearsgoneby,werePresbyterians,andcameseekingevidencesinsupportoftheirparticularcreed;theyfoundaPresbyterianPalestine,andtheyhadalreadymadeuptheirmindstofindnoother,thoughpossiblytheydidnotknowit,beingblindedbytheirzeal。OtherswereBaptists,seekingBaptistevidencesandaBaptistPalestine。OtherswereCatholics,Methodists,Episcopalians,seekingevidencesindorsingtheirseveralcreeds,andaCatholic,aMethodist,anEpiscopalianPalestine。Honestasthesemen\'sintentionsmayhavebeen,theywerefullofpartialitiesandprejudices,theyenteredthecountrywiththeirverdictsalreadyprepared,andtheycouldnomorewritedispassionatelyandimpartiallyaboutitthantheycouldabouttheirownwivesandchildren。Ourpilgrimshavebroughttheirverdictswiththem。TheyhaveshownitintheirconversationeversinceweleftBeirout。Icanalmosttell,insetphrase,whattheywillsaywhentheyseeTabor,Nazareth,JerichoandJerusalem——becauseIhavethebookstheywill"smouch"theirideasfrom。Theseauthorswritepicturesandframerhapsodies,andlessermenfollowandseewiththeauthor\'seyesinsteadoftheirown,andspeakwithhistongue。WhatthepilgrimssaidatCesareaPhilippisurprisedmewithitswisdom。IfounditafterwardsinRobinson。WhattheysaidwhenGenessaretburstupontheirvision,charmedmewithitsgrace。IfinditinMr。Thompson\'s"LandandtheBook。"Theyhavespokenoften,inhappilywordedlanguagewhichnevervaried,ofhowtheymeantolaytheirwearyheadsuponastoneatBethel,asJacobdid,andclosetheirdimeyes,anddream,perchance,ofangelsdescendingoutofheavenonaladder。Itwasverypretty。ButIhaverecognizedthewearyheadandthedimeyes,finally。Theyborrowedtheidea——andthewords——andtheconstruction——andthepunctuation——fromGrimes。ThepilgrimswilltellofPalestine,whentheygethome,notasitappearedtothem,butasitappearedtoThompsonandRobinsonandGrimes——withthetintsvariedtosuiteachpilgrim\'screed。

Pilgrims,sinnersandArabsareallabed,now,andthecampisstill。

Laborinlonelinessisirksome。SinceImademylastfewnotes,Ihavebeensittingoutsidethetentforhalfanhour。NightisthetimetoseeGalilee。Genessaretundertheselustrousstarshasnothingrepulsiveaboutit。Genessaretwiththeglitteringreflectionsoftheconstellationsfleckingitssurface,almostmakesmeregretthatIeversawtherudeglareofthedayuponit。Itshistoryanditsassociationsareitschiefestcharm,inanyeyes,andthespellstheyweavearefeebleinthesearchinglightofthesun。Then,wescarcelyfeelthefetters。Ourthoughtswanderconstantlytothepracticalconcernsoflife,andrefusetodwelluponthingsthatseemvagueandunreal。Butwhenthedayisdone,eventhemostunimpressiblemustyieldtothedreamyinfluencesofthistranquilstarlight。

Theoldtraditionsoftheplacestealuponhismemoryandhaunthisreveries,andthenhisfancyclothesallsightsandsoundswiththesupernatural。

Inthelappingofthewavesuponthebeach,hehearsthedipofghostlyoars;inthesecretnoisesofthenighthehearsspiritvoices;inthesoftsweepofthebreeze,therushofinvisiblewings。Phan—tomshipsareonthesea,thedeadoftwentycenturiescomeforthfromthetombs,andinthedirgesofthenightwindthesongsofoldforgottenagesfindutteranceagain。

Inthestarlight,Galileehasnoboundariesbutthebroadcompassoftheheavens,andisatheatremeetforgreatevents;meetforthebirthofareligionabletosaveaworld;andmeetforthestatelyFigureappointedtostanduponitsstageandproclaimitshighdecrees。Butinthesunlight,onesays:Isitforthedeedswhichweredoneandthewordswhichwerespokeninthislittleacreofrocksandsandeighteencenturiesgone,thatthebellsareringingto—dayintheremoteislandsoftheseaandfarandwideovercontinentsthatclaspthecircumferenceofthehugeglobe?

Onecancomprehenditonlywhennighthashiddenallincongruitiesandcreatedatheatreproperforsograndadrama。

Chapter49

WetookanotherswimintheSeaofGalileeattwilightyes

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