第15章

Afteramonth\'scloseconfinementinthehouseIwasatlengthabletogooutalittle，andaboutthesametimeIsucceededingettingaboatandsixnativestotakeAliandLahagitoAmberbaki，andtobringthembackattheendofamonth。AliwaschargedtobuyalltheBirdsofParadisehecouldget，andtoshootandskinallotherrareornewbirds；andLahagiwastocollectinsects，whichIhopedmightbemoreabundantthanatDorey。WhenIrecommencedmydailywalksinsearchofinsects，I

foundagreatchangeintheneighbourhood，andoneveryagreeabletome。AllthetimeIhadbeenlaiduptheship\'screwandtheJavanesesoldierswhohadbeenbroughtinatender(asailingshipwhichhadarrivedsoonaftertheEtna)，hadbeenemployedcuttingdown，sawing，andsplittinglargetreesforfirewood，toenablethesteamertogetbacktoAmboynaifthecoal-shipdidnotreturn；andtheyhadalsoclearedanumberofwide，straightpathsthroughtheforestinvariousdirections，greatlytotheastonishmentofthenatives，whocouldnotmakeoutwhatitallmeant。Ihadnowavarietyofwalks，andagooddealofdeadwoodonwhichtosearchforinsects；butnotwithstandingtheseadvantages，theywerenotnearlysoplentifulasIhadfoundthematSarawak，orAmboyna，orBatchian，confirmingmyopinionthatDoreywasnotagoodlocality。Itisquiteprobable，however，thatatastationafewmilesintheinterior，awayfromtherecentlyelevatedcorallinerocksandtheinfluenceoftheseaair，amuchmoreabundantharvestmightbeobtained。

OneafternoonIwentonboardthesteamertoreturnthecaptain\'svisit，andwasshownsomeverynicesketches(byoneofthelieutenants)，madeonthesouthcoast，andalsoattheArfakmountain，towhichtheyhadmadeanexcursion。Fromtheseandthecaptain\'sdescription，itappearedthatthepeopleofArfakweresimilartothoseofDorey，andIcouldhearnothingofthestraight-hairedracewhichLessonsaysinhabitstheinterior，butwhichnoonehaseverseen，andtheaccountofwhichIsuspecthasoriginatedinsomemistake。Thecaptaintoldmehehadmadeadetailedsurveyofpartofthesouthcoast，andifthecoalarrivedshouldgoawayatoncetoHumboldtPay，inlongitude141°

east，whichisthelineuptowhichtheDutchclaimNewGuinea。

OnboardthetenderIfoundabrothernaturalist，aGermannamedRosenberg，whowasdraughtsmantothesurveyingstaff。Hehadbroughttwomenwithhimtoshootandskinbirds，andhadbeenabletopurchaseafewrareskinsfromthenatives。AmongthesewasapairofthesuperbParadisePie(Astrapianigra)intolerablepreservation。TheywerebroughtfromtheislandofJobie，whichmaybeitsnativecountry，asitcertainlyisoftherarerspeciesofcrownpigeon(Gourasteursii)，oneofwhichwasbroughtaliveandsoldonboard。Jobie，however，isaverydangerousplace，andsailorsareoftenmurderedtherewhenonshore；sometimesthevesselsthemselvesbeingattacked。

Wandammen，onthemainlandoppositeJobie，inheretherearesaidtobeplentyofbirds，isevenworse，andateitheroftheseplacesmylifewouldnothavebeenworthaweek\'spurchasehadI

venturedtolivealoneandunprotectedasatDorey。Onboardthesteamertheyhadapairoftreekangaroosalive。Theydifferchieflyfromtheground-kangarooinhavingamorehairytail，notthickenedatthebase，andnotusedasaprop；andbythepowerfulclawsonthefore-feet，bywhichtheygraspthebarkandbranches，andseizetheleavesonwhichtheyfeed。Theymovealongbyshortjumpsontheirhind-feet，whichdonotseemparticularlywelladaptedforclimbingtrees。Ithasbeensupposedthatthesetree-kangaroosareaspecialadaptationtotheswampy，half-drownedforestsof，NewGuinea，inplaceoftheusualformofthegroup，whichisadaptedonlytodryground。Mr。

WindsorEarlmakesmuchofthistheory，but，unfortunatelyforit，thetree-kangaroosarechieflyfoundinthenorthernpeninsulaofNewGuinea，whichisentirelycomposedofhillsandmountainswithverylittleflatland，whilethekangarooofthelowflatAruIslands(Dorcopsisasiaticus)isagroundspecies。A

moreprobablesuppositionseemstolie，thatthetree-kangaroohasbeenmodifiedtoenableittofeedonfoliageinthevastforestsofNewGuinea，astheseformthegreatnaturalfeaturewhichdistinguishesthatcountryfromAustralia。

OnJune5th，thecoal-shiparrived，havingbeensentbackfromAmboyna，withtheadditionofsomefreshstoresforthesteamer。

Thewood，whichhadbeenalmostalltakenonboard，wasnowunladenagain，thecoaltakenin，andonthe17thbothsteamerandtenderleftforHumboldtBay。Wewerethenalittlequietagain，andgotsomethingtoeat；forwhilethevesselswerehereeverybitoffishorvegetablewastakenonboard，andIhadoftentomakeasmallparroquetservefortwomeals。MymennowreturnedfromAmberbaki，but，alasbroughtmealmostnothing。

Theyhadvisitedseveralvillages，andevenwenttwodays\'

journeyintotheinterior，butcouldfindnoskinsofBirdsofParadisetopurchase，exceptthecommonkind，andveryfewevenofthose。ThebirdsfoundwerethesameasatDorey，butwerestillscarcer。NoneofthenativesanywherenearthecoastshootorprepareBirdsofParadise，whichcomefromfarintheinteriorovertwoorthreerangesofmountains，passingbybarterfromvillagetovillagetilltheyreachthesea。TherethenativesofDoreybuythem，andontheirreturnhomesellthem。totheBugisorTernatetraders。ItisthereforehopelessforatravellertogotoanyparticularplaceonthecoastofNewGuineawhererareParadisebirdsmayhavebeenbought，inhopesofobtainingfreshlykilledspecimensfromthenatives；anditalsoshowsthescarcityofthesebirdsinanyonelocality，sincefromtheAmberbakidistrict，acelebratedplace，whereatleastfiveorsixspecieshavebeenprocured，notoneoftherareroneshasbeenobtainedthisyear。ThePrinceofTidore，whowouldcertainlyhavegotthemifanyweretobehad，wasobligedtoputupwithafewofthecommonyellowones。IthinkitprobablethatalongerresidenceatDorey，alittlefartherintheinterior，mightshowthatseveraloftherarerkindswerefoundthere，asI

obtainedasinglefemaleofthefinescale-breastedPtilorismagnificus。IwastoldatTernateofabirdthatiscertainlynotyetknowninEurope，ablackKingParadiseBird，withthecurledtailandbeautifulsideplumesofthecommonspecies，butalltherestoftheplumageglossyblack。ThepeopleofDoreyknewnothingaboutthis，althoughtheyrecognisedbydescriptionmostoftheotterspecies。

Whenthesteamerleft，Iwassufferingfromasevereattackoffever。InaboutaweekIgotoverthis，butitwasfollowedbysuchasorenessofthewholeinsideofthemouth，tongue，andgums，thatformanydaysIcouldputnothingsolidbetweenmylips，butwasobligedtosubsistentirelyonslops，althoughinotherrespectsverywell。Atthesametimetwoofmymenagainfellill，onewithfever，theotherwithdysentery，andbothgotverybad。IdidwhatIcouldforthemwithmysmallstockofmedicines，buttheylingeredonforsomeweeks，tillonJune26thpoorJumaatdied。Hewasabouteighteenyearsofage，anative，I

believe，ofBouton，andaquietlad，notveryactive，butdoinghisworkprettysteadily，andaswellashewasable。AsmymenwereallMahometans，Iletthemburyhimintheirownfashion，givingthemsomenewcottonclothforashroud。

OnJuly6ththesteamerreturnedfromtheeastward。Theweatherwasstillterriblywet，when，accordingtorule，itshouldhavebeenfineanddry。Wehadscarcelyanythingtoeat，andwereallofusill。Fevers，colds，anddysenterywerecontinuallyattackingus，andmademelongI-ogetawayfromNewGuinea，asmuchaseverIhadlongedtocomethere。ThecaptainoftheEtnapaidmeavisit，andgavemeaveryinterestingaccountofhistrip。TheyhadstayedatHumboldtBayseveraldays，andfounditamuchmorebeautifulandmoreinterestingplacethanDorey，aswellasabetterharbour。Thenativeswerequiteunsophisticated，beingrarelyvisitedexceptbystraywhalers，andtheyweresuperiortotheDoreypeople，morallyandphysically。Theywentquitenaked。Theirhousesweresomeinthewaterandsomeinland，andwereallneatlyandwellbuilt；theirfieldswerewellcultivated，andthepathstothemkeptclearandopen，inwhichrespectsDoreyisabominable。Theywereshyatfirst，andopposedtheboatswithhostiledemonstrations，beadingtheirbows，andintimatingthattheywouldshootifanattemptwasmadetoland。

Veryjudiciouslythecaptaingaveway，butthrewonshoreafewpresents，andaftertwoorthreetrialstheywerepermittedtoland，andtogoaboutandseethecountry，andweresuppliedwithfruitsandvegetables。Allcommunicationwascarriedonwiththembysigns——theDoreyinterpreter，whoaccompaniedthesteamer，beingunabletounderstandawordoftheirlanguage。Nonewbirdsoranimalswereobtained，butintheirornamentsthefeathersofParadisebirdswereseen，showing，asmightbeexpected，thatthesebirdsrangefarinthisdirection，andprobablyalloverNewGuinea。

Itiscuriousthatarudimentalloveofartshouldco-existwithsuchaverylowstateofcivilization。ThepeopleofDoreyaregreatcarversandpainters。Theoutsidesofthehouses，whereverthereisaplank，arecoveredwithrudeyetcharacteristicfigures。Thehigh-peakedprowsoftheirboatsareornamentedwithmassesofopenfilagreework，cutoutofsolidblocksofwood，andoftenofverytastefuldesign，Asafigurehead，orpinnacle，thereisoftenahumanfigure，withaheadofcassowaryfeatherstoimitatethePapuan"mop。"Thefloatsoftheirfishing-lines，thewoodenbeatersusedintemperingtheclayfortheirpottery，theirtobacco-boxes，andotherhouseholdarticles，arecoveredwithcarvingoftastefulandoftenelegantdesign。Didwenotalreadyknowthatsuchtasteandskillarecompatiblewithutterbarbarism，wecouldhardlybelievethatthesamepeopleare，inothermatters，utterlywantinginallsenseoforder，comfort，ordecency。Yetsuchisthecase。Theyliveinthemostmiserable，crazy，andfilthyhovels，whichareutterlydestituteofanythingthatcanbecalledfurniture；notastool，orbench，orboardisseeninthem，nobrushseemstobeknown，andtheclothestheywearareoftenfilthybark，orrags，orsacking。Alongthepathswheretheydailypasstoandfromtheirprovisiongrounds，notanoverhangingboughorstragglingbriareverseemstohecut，sothatyouhavetobrushthrougharankvegetation，creepunderfallentreesandspinycreepers，andwadethroughpoolsofmudandmire，whichcannotdryupbecausethesunisnotallowedtopenetrate。Theirfoodisalmostwhollyrootsandvegetables，withfishorgameonlyasanoccasionalluxury，andtheyareconsequentlyverysubjecttovariousskindiseases，thechildrenespeciallybeingoftenmiserable-lookingobjects，blotchedalloverwitheruptionsandsores。Ifthesepeoplearenotsavages，whereshallwefindany？Yettheyhavealladecidedloveforthefinearts，andspendtheirleisuretimeinexecutingworkswhosegoodtasteandelegancewouldoftenbeadmiredinourschoolsofdesign！

DuringthelatterpartofmystayinNewGuineatheweatherwasverywet，myonlyshooterwasill，andbirdsbecamescarce，sothatmyonlyresourcewasinsect-hunting。Iworkedveryhardeveryhouroffineweather，anddailyobtainedanumberofnewspecies。Everydeadtreeandfallenlogwassearchedandsearchedagain；andamongthedryandrottingleaves，whichstillhungoncertaintreeswhichhadbeencutdown，IfoundanabundantharvestofminuteColeoptera。AlthoughIneverafterwardsfoundsomanylargeandhandsomebeetlesasinBorneo，yetIobtainedhereagreatvarietyofspecies。Forthefirsttwoorthreeweeks，whileIwassearchingoutthebestlocalities，Itookabout30differentkindsofbeetlesnday，besidesabouthalfthatnumberofbutterflies，andafewoftheotherorders。Butafterwards，uptotheverylastweek，Iaveraged49speciesaday。Onthe31stofMay，Itook78distinctsorts，alargernumberthanIhadevercapturedbefore，principallyobtainedamongdeadtreesandunderrottenbark。Agoodlongwalkonafinedayupthehill，andtotheplantationsofthenatives，capturingeverythingnotverycommonthatcameinmyway，wouldproduceabout60species；butonthelastdayofJuneIbroughthomenolessthan95distinctkindsofbeetles，alargernumberthanIeverobtainedinonedaybeforeorsince。Itwasafinehotday，andIdevotedittoasearchamongdeadleaves，beatingfoliage，andhuntingunderrottenbark，inallthebeststationsIhaddiscoveredduringmywalks。Iwasoutfromteninthemorningtillthreeintheafternoon，andittookmesixhours\'

workathometopinandsetoutallthespecimens，andtoseparatethespecies。AlthoughThadalreadybeenworkingthisshotdailyfortwomonthsandahalf，andhadobtainedover800

speciesofColeoptera，thisday\'sworkadded32newones。Amongthesewere4Longicorns，2Caribidae，7Staphylinidae，7

Curculionidae，2Copridae，4Chrysomelidae，3Heteromera，1

Elates，and1Buprestis。EvenonthelastdayIwentout，I

obtained10newspecies；sothatalthoughIcollectedoverathousanddistinctsortsofbeetlesinaspacenotmuchexceedingasquaremileduringthethreemonthsofmyresidenceatDorey，I

cannotbelievethatthisrepresentsonehalfthespeciesreallyinhabitingthesamespot，orafourthofwhatmightbeobtainedinanareaextendingtwentymilesineachdirection。

Onthe22dofJulytheschoonerHesterHelenaarrived，andfivedaysafterwardswebadeadieutoDorey，withoutmuchregret，forinnoplacewhichIhavevisitedhaveIencounteredmoreprivationsandannoyances。Continualrain，continualsickness，littlewholesomefood，withaplagueofantsandfiles，surpassinganythingIhadbeforemetwith，requiredallanaturalist\'sardourtoencounter；andwhentheywereuncompensatedbygreatsuccessincollecting，becameallthemoreinsupportable。Thislongthought-ofandmuch-desiredvoyagetoNewGuineahadrealizednoneofmyexpectations。InsteadofbeingfarbetterthantheAruIslands，itwasinalmosteverythingmuchworse。InsteadofproducingseveraloftherarerParadisebirds，Ihadnotevenseenoneofthem，andhadnotobtainedanyonesuperlativelyfinebirdorinsect。Icannotdeny，however，thatDoreywasveryrichinants。Onesmallblackkindwasexcessivelyabundant。Almosteveryshrubandtreewasmoreorlessinfestedwithit，anditslargepaperynestswereeverywheretobeseen。

Theyimmediatelytookpossessionofmyhouse，buildingalargenestintheroof，andformingpaperytunnelsdownalmosteverypost。TheyswarmedonmytableasIwasatworksettingoutmyinsects，carryingthemofffromundermyverynose，andeventearingthemfromthecardsonwhichtheyweregummedifIleftthemforaninstant。Theycrawledcontinuallyovermyhandsandface，gotintomyhair，androamedatwillovermywholebody，notproducingmuchinconveniencetilltheybegantobite，whichtheywoulddoonmeetingwithanyobstructiontotheirpassage，andwithasharpnesswhichmademejumpagainandrushtoundressandturnouttheoffender。Theyvisitedmybedalso，sothatnightbroughtnorelieffromtheirpersecutions；andIverilybelievethatduringmythreeandahalfmonths\'residenceatDoreyIwasneverforasinglehourentirelyfreefromthem。Theywerenotnearlysovoraciousasmanyotherkinds，buttheirnumbersandubiquityrendereditnecessarytobeconstantlyonguardagainstthem。

Thefliesthattroubledmemostwerealargekindofblue-bottleorblow-fly。Thesesettledinswarmsonmybirdskinswhenfirstputouttodry，fillingtheirplumagewithmassesofeggs，which，ifneglected，thenextdayproducedmaggots。Theywouldgetunderthewingsorunderthebodywhereitrestedonthedrying-board，sometimesactuallyraisingituphalfaninchbythemassofeggsdepositedinafewhours；andeveryeggwassofirmlygluedtothefibresofthefeathers，astomakeitaworkofmuchtimeandpatiencetogetthemoffwithoutinjuringthebird。InnootherlocalityhaveIeverbeentroubledwithsuchaplagueasthis。

Onthe29thweleftDorey，andexpectedaquickvoyagehome，asitwasthetimeofyearwhenweoughttohavehadsteadysoutherlyandeasterlywinds。Insteadofthese，however，wehadcalmsandwesterlybreezes，anditwasseventeendaysbeforewereachedTernate，adistanceoffivehundredmilesonly，which，withaveragewinds，couldhavebeendoneinfivedays。Itwasagreattreattometofindmyselfbackagaininmycomfortablehouse，enjoyingmilktomyteaandcoffee，freshbreadandbutter，andfowlandfishdailyfordinner。ThisNewGuineavoyagehadusedusallup，andIdeterminedtostayandrecruitbeforeIcommencedanyfreshexpeditions。MysucceedingjourneystoGiloloandBatchianhavealreadybeennarrated，andif；nowonlyremainsformetogiveanaccountofmyresidenceinWaigiou，thelastPapuanterritoryIvisitedinsearchofBirdsofParadise。

CHAPTERXXXV。

VOYAGEFROMCERAMTOWAIGIOU。

(JUNEANDJULY1860。)

INmytwenty-fifthchapterIhavedescribedmyarrivalatWahai，onmywaytoMysolandWaigiou，islandswhichbelongtothePapuandistrict，andtheaccountofwhichnaturallyfollowsafterthatofmyvisittothemainlandofNewGuinea。InowtakeupmynarrativeatmydeparturefromWahai，withtheintentionofcarryingvariousnecessarystorestomyassistant，Mr。Allen，atSilinta，inMysol，andthencontinuingmyjourneytoWaigiou。ItwillberememberedthatIwastravellinginasmallprau，whichI

hadpurchasedandfittedupinGoram，andthat，havingbeendesertedbymycrewonthecoastofCeram，IhadobtainedfourmenatWahai，who，withmyAmboynesehunter，constitutedmycrew。

BetweenCeramandMysoltherearesixtymilesofopensea，andalongthiswidechanneltheeastmonsoonblowsstrongly；sothatwithnativepraus，whichwillnotlayuptothewind，itrequiressomecareincrossing。Inordertogiveourselvessufficientleeway，wesailedbackfromWahaieastward，alongthecoastofCeram，withtheland-breeze；butinthemorning(June18th)hadnotgonenearlysofarasIexpected。Mypilot，anoldandexperiencedsailor，namedGurulampoko，assuredmetherewasacurrentsettingtotheeastward，andthatwecouldeasilylayacrosstoSilinta，inMysol。Aswegotoutfromthelandthewindincreased，andtherewasaconsiderablesea，whichmademyshortlittlevesselplungeandrollaboutviolently。Bysunset-wehadnotgothalfwayacross，butcouldseeMysoldistinctly。Allnightwewentalonguneasily，andatdaybreak，onlookingoutanxiously，Ifoundthatwehadfallenmuchtothewestwardduringthenight，owing，nodoubt，tothepilotbeingsleepyandnotkeepingtheboatsufficientlyclosetothewind。Wecouldseethemountainsdistinctly，butitwasclearweshouldnotreachSilinta，andshouldhavesomedifficultyingettingtotheextremewestwardpointoftheisland。Theseawasnowveryboisterous，andourprauwascontinuallybeatentoleewardbythewaves，andafteranotherwearydaywefoundwecouldnotgettoMysolatall，butmightperhapsreachtheislandcalledPuloKanary，abouttenmilestothenorth-west。ThencewemightawaitafavourablewindtoreachWaigamma，onthenorthsideoftheisland，andvisitAllenbymeansofasmallboat。

Aboutnineo\'clockatnight，greatlytomysatisfaction，wegotundertheleaofthisisland，intoquitesmoothwater——forIhadbeenverysickanduncomfortable，andhadeatenscarcelyanythingsincetheprecedingmorning。Wewereslowlynearingtheshore，whichthesmoothdarkwatertolduswecouldsafelyapproach；andwerecongratulatingourselvesonsoonbeingatanchor，withtheprospectofhotcoffee，agoodsupper，andasoundsleep，whenthewindcompletelydropped，andwehadtogetouttheoarstorow。Wewerenotmorethantwohundredyardsfromtheshore，whenInoticedthatweseemedtogetnoneareralthoughthemenwererowinghard，butdriftedtothewestward，andtheprauwouldnotobeythehelm，butcontinuallyfelloff，andgaveusmuchtroubletobringherupagain。Soonalaudrippleofwatertolduswewereseizedbyoneofthosetreacherouscurrentswhichsofrequentlyfrustratealltheeffortsofthevoyagerintheseseas；thementhrewdowntheoarsindespair，andinafewminuteswedriftedtoleewardoftheislandfairlyouttoseaagain，andlostourlastchanceofeverreachingMysol！Hoistingourjib，welayto，andinthemorningfoundourselvesonlyafewmilesfromtheisland，butwit，suchasteadywindblowingfromitsdirectionastorenderitimpossibleforustogetbacktoit。

Wenowmadesailtothenorthward，hopingsoontogetamoresoutherlywind。Towardsnoontheseawasmuchsmoother，andwithaS。S。E。windwewerelayinginthedirectionofSalwatty，whichIhopedtoreach，asIcouldthereeasilygetaboattotakeprovisionsandstorestomycompanioninMysol。Thiswinddidnot，however，lastlong，butdiedawayintoacalm；andalightwestwindspringingup，withadarkbankofclouds，againgaveushopesofreachingMysol。Weweresoon，however，againdisappointed。TheE。S。E。windbegantoblowagainwithviolence，andcontinuedallnightinirregulargusts，andwithashortcrossseatossedusaboutunmercifully，andsocontinuallytookoursailsaback，thatwewereatlengthforcedtorunbeforeitwithourjibonly，toescapebeingswampedbyourheavymainsail。

Afteranothermiserableandanxiousnight，wefoundthatwehaddriftedwestwardoftheislandofPoppa，andthewindbeingagainalittlesoutherly，wemadeallsailinordertoreachit。Thiswedidnotsucceedindoing，passingtothenorth-west，whenthewindagainblewhardfromtheE。S。E。，andourlasthopeoffindingarefugetillbetterweatherwasfrustrated。Thiswasaveryseriousmattertome，asIcouldnottellhowCharlesAllenmightact，if，afterwaitinginvainforme，heshouldreturntoWahai，andfindthatIhadlefttherelongbefore，andhadnotsincebeenheardof。Suchaneventasourmissinganislandfortymileslongwouldhardlyoccurtohim，andhewouldconcludeeitherthatourboathadfoundered，orthatmycrewhadmurderedmeandrunawaywithher。However，asitwasphysicallyimpossiblenowformetoreachhim，theonlythingtobedonewastomakethebestofmywaytoWaigiou，andtrusttoourmeetingsometraders，whomightconveytohimthenewsofmysafety。

Findingonmymapagroupofthreesmallislands，twenty-fivemilesnorthofPoppa，Iresolved，ifpossible，torestthereadayortwo。Wecouldlayourboat\'sheadN。E。byN。；butaheavyseafromtheeastwardsocontinuallybeatusoffourcourse，andwemadesomuchleeway，thatIfounditwouldbeasmuchaswecoulddotoreachthem。Itwasadelicatepointtokeepourheadinthebestdirection，neithersoclosetothewindastostopourway，orsofreeastocarryustoofartoleeward。I

continuallydirectedthesteersmanmyself，andbyincessantvigilancesucceeded，justatsunset，inbringingourboattoananchorundertheleeofthesouthernpointofoneoftheislands。

Theanchoragewas，however，bynomeansgood，therebeingafringingcoralreef，dryatlowwater，beyondwhich，onabottomstrewnwithmassesofcoral，wewereobligedtoanchor。Wehadnowbeenincessantlytossingaboutforfourdaysinoursmallundeckedboat，withconstantdisappointmentsandanxiety，anditwasagreatcomforttohaveanightofquietandcomparativesafety。Myoldpilothadneverleftthehelmformorethananhouratatime，whenoneoftheotherswouldrelievehimforalittlesleep；soIdeterminedthenextmorningtolookoutforasecureandconvenientharbour，andrestonshoreforaday。

Inthemorning，findingitwouldbenecessaryforustogetroundarockypoint，Iwantedmymentogoonshoreandcutjungle-

rope，bywhichtosecureusfrombeingagaindraftedaway，asthewindwasdirectlyoffshore。Iunfortunately，however，allowedmyselftobeoverruledbythepilotandcrew，whoalldeclaredthatitwastheeasiestthingpossible，andthattheywouldrowtheboatroundthepointinafewminutes。Theyaccordinglygotuptheanchor，setthejib，andbeganrowing；but，justasIhadfeared，wedriftedrapidlyoffshore，andhadtodropanchoragainindeeperwater，andmuchfartheroff。Thetwobestmen，aPapuanandaMalaynowswamonshore，eachcarryingahatchet，andwentintothejungletoseekcreepersforrope。Afteraboutanhourouranchorloosedhold，andbegantodrag。Thisalarmedmegreatly，andweletgoourspareanchor，and，byrunningoutallourcable，appearedtolerablysecureagain。Wewerenowmostanxiousforthereturnofthemen，andweregoingtofireourmusketstorecallthem，whenweobservedthemonthebeach，somewayoff，andalmostimmediatelyouranchorsagainslipped，andwedriftedslowlyawayintodeepwater。Weinstantlyseizedtheoars，butfoundwecouldnotcounteractthewindandcurrent，andourfranticcriestothemenwerenotheardtillwehadgotalongwayoff；astheyseemedtobehuntingforshell-fishonthebeach。Verysoon，however，theystaredatus，andinafewminutesseemedtocomprehendtheirsituation；fortheyrusheddownintothewater，asiftoswimoff，butagainreturnedonshore，asifafraidtomaketheattempt。Wehaddrawnupouranchorsatfirstnottocheckourrowing；butnow，findingwecoulddonothing，weletthembothhangdownbythefulllengthofthecables。Thisstoppedourwayverymuch，andwedriftedfromshoreveryslowly，andhopedthemenwouldhastilyformaraft，orcutdownasoft-woodtree，andpaddleout，tous，aswewerestillnotmorethanathirdofamilefromshore。Theyseemed，however，tohavehalflosttheirsenses，gesticulatingwildlytous，runningalongthebeach，thengoinguntotheforest；andjustwhenwethoughttheyhadpreparedsomemodeofmakinganattempttoreachus，wesawthesmokeofafiretheyhadmadetocooktheirshell-fish！Theyhadevidentlygivenupallideaofcomingafterus，andwewereobligedtolooktoourownposition。

Wewerenowaboutamilefromshore，andmidwaybetweentwooftheislands，butwewereslowlydriftingout，toseatothewestward，andouronlychanceofyetsavingthemenwastoreachtheoppositeshore。Wethereforesotourjibandrowedhard；butthewindfailed，andwedriftedoutsorapidlythatwehadsomedifficultyinreachingtheextremewesterlypointoftheisland。

Ouronlysailorleft，thenswamashorewitharope，andhelpedtotowusroundthepointintoatolerablysafeandsecureanchorage，wellshelteredfromthewind，butexposedtoalittleswellwhichjerkedouranchorandmadeusratheruneasy。Wewerenowinasadplight，havinglostourtwobestmen，andbeingdoubtfulifwehadstrengthlefttohoistourmainsail。Wehadonlytwodays\'wateronboard，andthesmall，rocky，volcanicislanddidnotpromiseusmuchchanceoffindingany。Theconductofthemenonshorewassuchastorenderitdoubtfuliftheywouldmakeanyseriousattempttoreachus，thoughtheymighteasilydoso，havingtwogoodchoppers，withwhichinadaytheycouldmaleasmalloutriggerraftonwhichtheycouldsafelycrossthetwomilesofsmoothseawiththewindrightaft，iftheystartedfromtheeastendoftheisland，soastoallowforthecurrent。Icouldonlyhopetheywouldbesensibleenoughtomaketheattempt，anddeterminedtostayaslongasIcouldtogivethemthechance。

Wepassedananxiousnight，fearfulofagainbreakingouranchororrattancable。Inthemorning(23d)，findingallsecure，I

wadedonshorewithmytwomen，leavingtheoldsteersmanandthecookonboard，withaloadedmuskettorecallusifneeded。Wefirstwalkedalongthebeach，tillstoppedbytheverticalcliffsattheeastendoftheisland，findingaplacewheremeathadbeensmoked，aturtle-shellstillgreasy，andsomecutwood，theleavesofwhichwerestillgreen，showingthatsomeboathadbeenhereveryrecently。Wethenenteredthejungle，cuttingourwayuptothetopofthehill，butwhenwegottherecouldseenothing，owingtothethicknessoftheforest。Returning，wecutsomebamboos，andsharpenedthemtodigforwaterinalowspotwheresomesago-treesweregrowing；when，justasweweregoingtobegin，Hoi，theWahaiman，calledouttosayhehadfoundwater。ItwasadeepholeamongtheSagotrees，instiffblackclay，fullofwater，whichwasfresh，butsmelthorriblyfromthequantityofdeadleavesandsagorefusethathadfallenin。

Hastilyconcludingthatitwasaspring，orthatthewaterhadfilteredin，webaleditalloutaswellasadozenortwentybucketsofmudandrubbish，hopingbynighttohaveagoodsupplyofcleanwater。Ithenwentonboardtobreakfast，leavingmytwomentomakeabamboorafttocarryusonshoreandbackwithoutwading。Ihadscarcelyfinishedwhenourcablebroke，andwebumpedagainsttherocks。Luckilyitwassmoothandcalm，andnodamagewasdone。Wesearchedforandgotupouranchor，andfoundteatthecablehadbeencutbygratingallnightuponthecoral。

Haditgivenwayinthenight，wemighthavedriftedouttoseawithoutouranchor，orbeenseriouslydamaged。Intheeveningwewenttofetchwaterfromthewell，when，greatlytoourdismay，wefoundnothingbutalittleliquidmudatthebottom，anditthenbecameevidentthattheholewasonewhichhadbeenmadetocollectrainwater，andwouldneverfillagainaslongasthepresentdroughtcontinued。Aswedidnotknowwhatwemightsufferforwantofwater，wefilledourjarwiththismuddystuffsothatitmightsettle。IntheafternoonIcrossedovertotheothersideoftheisland，andmadealargefire，inorderthatourmenmightseewewerestillthere。

Thenextday(24th)Ideterminedtohaveanothersearchforwater；andwhenthetidewasoutroundedarockypointandwenttotheextremityoftheislandwithoutfindinganysignofthesmalleststream。Onourwayback，noticingaverysmalldrybedofawatercourse，Iwentupittoexplore，althougheverythingwassodrythatmymenloudlydeclareditwasuselesstoexpectwaterthere；butalittlewayupIwasrewardedbyfindingafewpintsinasmallpool。Wesearchedhigherupineveryholeandchannelwherewatermarksappeared，butcouldfindnotadropmore。Sendingoneofmymenforalargejarandteacup，wesearchedalongthebeachtillwefoundsignsofanotherdrywatercourse，andonascendingthisweresofortunateastodiscovertwodeepshelteredrock-holescontainingseveralgallonsofwater，enoughtofillallourjars。Whenthecupcameweenjoyedagooddrinkofthecoolpurewater，andbeforewelefthadcarriedaway，Ibelieve，everydropontheisland。

Intheeveningagood-sizedprauappearedinsight，makingapparentlyfortheislandwhereourmenwereleft，andwehadsomehopestheymightbeseenandpickedup，butitpassedalongmid-channel，anddidnotnoticethesignalswetriedtomake。I

wasnow，however，prettyeasyastothefateofthemen。Therewasplentyofsagoonourrockyisland，andthereworldprobablybesomeonthefiatonetheywerelefton。Theyhadchoppers，andcouldcutdownatreeandmakesago，andwouldmostlikelyfindsufficientwaterbydigging。Shell-fishwereabundant，andtheywouldbeabletomanageverywelltillsomeboatshouldtouchthere，ortillIcouldsendandfetchthem。Thenextdaywedevotedtocuttingwood，fillingupourjarswithallthewaterwecouldfind，andmakingreadytosailintheevening。IshotasmalllorycloselyresemblingacommonspeciesatTernate，andaglossystarlingwhichdifferedfromthealliedbirdsofCeramandMatabello。Largewood-pigeonsandcrowsweretheonlyotherbirdsIsaw，butIdidnotobtainspecimens。

AbouteightintheeveningofJune25thwestarted，andfoundthatwithallhandsatworkwecouldjusthaulupourmainsail。

Wehadafairwindduringthenightandsailednorth-east，findingourselvesinthemorningabouttwentymileswestoftheextremityofWaigiouwithanumberofislandsintervening。Aboutteno\'clockweranfullontoacoralreef，whichalarmedusagooddeal，butluckilygotsafeoffagain。Abouttwointheafternoonwereachedanextensivecoralreef，andweresailingclosealongsideofit，whenthewindsuddenlydropped，andwedriftedontoitbeforewecouldgetinourheavymainsail，whichwewereobligedtoletrundownandfallpartlyoverboard。Wehadmuchdifficultyingettingoff，butatlastgotintodeepwateragain，thoughwithreefsandislandsallaroundus。Atnightwedidnotknowwhattodo，asnooneonboardcouldtellwherewewereorwhatdangersmightsurroundus，theonlyoneofourcrewwhowasacquaintedwiththecoastofWaigiouhavingbeen。leftontheisland。Wethereforetookinallsailandallowedourselvestodrift，asweweresomemilesfromthenearestland。Alightbreeze，however，sprangup，andaboutmidnightwefoundourselvesagainbumpingoveracoralreef。Asitwasverydark，andweknewnothingofourposition，wecouldonlyguesshowtogetoffagain，andhadtherebeenalittlemorewindwemighthavebeenknockedtopieces。However，inabouthalfanhourwedidgetoff，andthenthoughtitbesttoanchorontheedgeofthereeftillmorning。Soonafterdaylightonthe7th，findingourprauhadreceivednodamage，wesailedonwithuncertainwindsandsqualls，threadingourwayamongislandsandreefs，andguidedonlybyasmallmap，whichwasveryincorrectandquiteuseless，andbyageneralnotionofthedirectionweoughttotake。Intheafternoonwefoundatolerableanchorageunderasmallislandandstayedforthenight，andIshotalargefruit-pigeonnewtome，whichIhavesincenamedCarpophagatumida。Ialsosawandshotattherarewhite-headedkingfisher(Halcyonsaurophaga)，butdidnotkillit。Thenextmorningwesailedon，andhavingafairwindreachedtheshoresofthelargeislandofWaigiou。Onroundingapointweagainranfullontoacoralreefwithourmainsailup，butluckilythewindhadalmostdiedaway，andwithagooddealofexertionwemanagedgetsafelyoff。

Wenowhadtosearchforthenarrowchannelamongislands，whichweknewwassomewherehereabouts，andwhichleadstothevillagesonthesouthsideofWaigiou。Enteringadeepbaywhichlookedpromising，wegottotheendofit，butitwasthendusk，soweanchoredforthenight，andhavingjustfinishedallourwatercouldcooknoriceforsupper。Nextmorningearly(29th)wewentonshoreamongthemangroves，andalittlewayinlandfoundsomewater，whichrelievedouranxietyconsiderably，andleftusfreetogoalongthecoastinsearchoftheopening，orofsomeonewhocoulddirectustoit。Duringthethreedayswehadnowbeenamongthereefsandislands，wehadonlyseenasinglesmallcanoe，whichhadapproachedprettyneartous，andthen，notwithstandingoursignals，wentoffinanotherdirection。Theshoresseemedalldesert；notahouse，orboat，orhumanbeing，orapuffofsmokewastobeseen；andaswecouldonlygoonthecoursethattheever-changingwindwouldallowus(ourhandsbeingtoofewtorowanydistance)，ourprospectsofgettingtoourdestinationseemedratherremoteandprecarious。Havinggonetotheeastwardextremityofthedeepbaywehadentered，withoutfindinganysignofanopening，weturnedwestward；andtowardseveningweresofortunateastofindasmallvillageofsevenmiserablehousesbuiltonpilesinthewater。LuckilytheOrang-

kaya，orheadman，couldspeakalittle。Malay，andinformedusthattheentrancetothestraitwasreallyinthebaywehadexamined，butthatitwasnottobeseenexceptwhen-closeinshore。Hesaidthestraitwasoftenverynarrow，andwoundamonglakesandrocksandislands，andthatitwouldtaketwodaystoreachthelargevillageofMuka，andthreemoretogettoWaigiou。IsucceededinhiringtwomentogowithustoMuka，bringingasmallboatinwhichtoreturn；butwehadtowaitadayforourguides，soItookmygunandmadealittleexcursioninfotheforest。Thedaywaswetanddrizzly，andIonlysucceededinshootingtwosmallbirds，butIsawthegreatblackcockatoo，andhadaglimpseofoneortwoBirdsofParadise，whoseloudscreamswehadheardonfirstapproachingthecoast。

Leavingthevillagethenextmorning(July1st)withalightwind，ittookusalldaytoreachtheentrancetothechannel，whichresembledasmallriver，andwasconcealedbyaprojectingpoint，sothatitwasnowonderwedidnotdiscoveritamidthedenseforestvegetationwhicheverywherecoverstheseislandstothewater\'sedge。Alittlewayinsideitbecomesboundedbyprecipitousrocks，afterwindingamongwhichforabouttwomiles，weemergedintowhatseemedalake，butwhichwasinfactadeepgulfhavinganarrowentranceonthesouthcoast。Thisgulfwasstuddedalongitsshoreswithnumbersofrockyislets，mostlymushroomshaped，fromthe`eaterhavingwornawaythelowerpartofthesolublecorallinelimestone，leavingthemoverhangingfromtentotwentyfeet。Everyisletwascoveredwillstrange-loopingshrubsandtrees，andwasgenerallycrownedbyloftyandelegantpalms，whichalsostuddedtheridgesofthemountainousshores，formingoneofthemostsingularandpicturesquelandscapesI

haveeverseen。Thecurrentwhichhadbroughtusthroughthenarrowstraitnowceased，andwewereobligedtorow，whichwithourshortandheavyprauwasslowwork。Iwentonshoreseveraltimes，buttherocksweresoprecipitous，sharp，andhoneycombed，thatIfounditimpossibletogetthroughthetangledthicketwithwhichtheywereeverywhereclothed。Ittookusthreedaystogettotheentranceofthegulf，andthenthewindwassuchastopreventourgoinganyfurther，andwemighthavehadtowaitfordaysorweeps，when，muchtomysurpriseandgratification，aboatarrivedfromMukawithoneoftheheadmen，whohadinsomemysteriousmannerheardIwasonmyway，andhadcometomyassistance，bringingapresentofcocoa-nutsandvegetables。

Beingthoroughlyacquaintedwiththecoast，andhavingseveralextramentoassistus，hemanagedtogetthepraualongbyrowing，poling，orsailing，andbynighthadbroughtussafelyintoharbour，agreatreliefafterourtediousandunhappyvoyage。WehadbeenalreadyeightdaysamongthereefsandislandsofWaigiou，comingadistanceofaboutfiftymiles，anditwasjustfortydayssincewehadsailedfromGoram。

ImmediatelyonourarrivalatMuka，Iengagedasmallboatandthreenativestogoinsearchofmylostmen，andsentoneofmyownmenwiththemtomakesureoftheirgoingtotherightisland。Intendaystheyreturned，buttomygreatregretanddisappointment，withoutthemen。Theweatherhadbeenverybad，andthoughtheyhadreachedanislandwithinsightofthatinwhichthemenwere，theycouldgetnofurther。Theyhadwaitedtheresixdaysforbetterweather，andthen，havingnomoreprovisions，andthemanIhadsentwiththembeingveryillandnotexpectedtolive，theyreturned。Astheynowknewtheisland，Iwasdeterminedtheyshouldmakeanothertrial，and(byaliberalpaymentofknives，handkerchiefs，andtobacco，withplentyofprovisions)persuadedthemtostartbackimmediately，andmakeanotherattempt。Theydidnotreturnagaintillthe29thofJuly，havingstayedafewdaysattheirownvillageofBessirontheway；butthistimetheyhadsucceededandbroughtwiththemmytwolostmen，intolerablehealth，thoughthinandweak。

Theyhadlivedexactlyamonthontheislandhadfoundwater，andhadsubsistedontherootsandtenderflower-stalksofaspeciesofBromelia，onshell-fish。andonafewturtles\'eggs。Havingswumtotheisland，theyhadonlyapairoftrousersandashirtbetweenthem，buthadmadeahutofpalm-leaves，andhadaltogethergotonverywell。TheysawthatIwaitedforthemthreedaysattheoppositeisland，buthadbeenafraidtocross，lestthecurrentshouldhavecarriedthemouttosea，whentheywouldhavebeeninevitablylost。TheyhadfeltsureIwouldsendforthemonthefirstopportunity，andappearedmoregratefulthannativesusuallyareformyhavingdoneso；whileIfeltmuchrelievedthatmyvoyage，thoughsufficientlyunfortunate，hadnotinvolvedlossoflife。

CHAPTERXXXVI。

WAIGIOU。

(JULYTOSEPTEMER1860。)

THEvillageofMuka，onthesouthcoastofWaigiou，consistsofanumberofpoorhuts，partlyinthewaterandpartlyonshore，andscatteredirregularlyoveraspaceofabouthalfamileinashallowbay。Arounditareafewcultivatedpatches，andagooddealofsecond-growthwoodyvegetation；whilebehind，atthedistanceofabouthalfamile，risesthevirginforest，throughwhichareafewpathstosomehousesandplantationsamileortwoinland。Thecountryroundisratherflat，andinplacesswampy，andthereareoneortwosmallstreamswhichrunbehindthevillageintotheseabelowit。Findingthatnohousecouldbehadsuitabletomypurpose，andhawingsooftenexperiencedtheadvantagesoflivingclosetoorjustwithintheforest，I

obtainedtheassistanceofhalf-a-dozenmen；andhavingselectedaspotnearthepathandthestream，andclosetoafinefig-

tree，whichstoodjustwithintheforest，weclearedthegroundandsettobuildingahouse。AsIdidnotexpecttostayheresolongasIhaddoneatDorey，Ibuiltalong，low，narrowshed，aboutsevenfeethighononesideandfourontheother，whichrequiredbutlittlewood，andwasputupveryrapidly。Oursails，withafewoldattapsfromadesertedbutinthevillage，formedthewalls，andaquantityof"cadjans，"orpalm-leafmats，coveredintheroof。Onthethirddaymyhousewasfinished，andallmythingsputinandcomfortablyarrangedtobeginwork，andIwasquitepleasedathavinggotestablishedsoquicklyandinsuchanicesituation。

Ithadbeensofarfineweather，butinthenightitrainedhard，andwefoundourmatroofwouldnotkeepoutwater。Itfirstbegantodrop，andthentostreamovereverything。Ihadtogetupinthemiddleofthenighttosecuremyinsect-boxes，rice，andotherperishablearticles，andtofindadryplacetosleepin，formybedwassoaked。Freshleakskeptformingastheraincontinued，andweallpassedaverymiserableandsleeplessnight。Inthemorningthesunshonebrightly，andeverythingwasputouttodry。Wetriedtofindoutwhythematsleaked，andthoughtwehaddiscoveredthattheyhadbeenlaidonupsidedown。

Havingshiftedthereall，andgoteverythingdryandcomfortablebytheevening，weagainwenttobed，andbeforemidnightwereagainawakedbytorrentofrainandleaksstreaminginuponusasbadasever。Therewasnomoresleepforusthatnight，andthenextdayourroofwasagaintakentopieces，andwecametotheconclusionthatthefaultwasawantofslopeenoughintheroofformats，althoughitwouldbesufficientfortheusualattapthatch。Ithereforepurchasedafewnewandsomeoldattaps，andinthepartsthesewouldnotcoverweputthematsdouble，andthenatlasthadthesatisfactionoffindingourrooftolerablywater-tight。

Iwasnowabletobeginworkingatthenaturalhistoryoftheisland。WhenIfirstarrivedIwassurprisedatbeingtoldthattherewerenoParadiseBirdsatMuka，althoughtherewereplentyatBessir，aplacewherethenativescaughtthemandpreparedtheskins。IassuredthepeopleIhadheardthecryofthesebirdsclosetothevillage，buttheyworldnotbelievethatIcouldknowtheircry。However，theveryfirsttimeIwentintotheforestInotonlyheardbutsawthem，andwasconvincedtherewereplentyabout；buttheywereveryshy，anditwassometimebeforewegotany。Myhunterfirstshotafemale，andIonedaygotveryclosetoafinemale。Hewas，asIexpected，therareredspecies，Paradisearubra，whichaloneinhabitsthisisland，andisfoundnowhereelse。Hewasquitelowdown，runningalongaboughsearchingforinsects，almostlikeawoodpecker，andthelongblackriband-likefilamentsinhistailhungdowninthemostgracefuldoublecurveimaginable。Icoveredhimwithmygun，andwasgoingtousethebarrelwhichhadaverysmallchargeofpowderandnumbereightshot，soasnottoinjurehisplumage，butthegunmissedfire，andhewasoffinaninstantamongthethickestjungle。Anotherdaywesawnolessthaneightfinemalesatdifferenttimes，andfiredfourtimesatthem；butthoughotherbirdsatthesamedistancealmostalwaysdropped，theseallgotaway，andIbegantothinkwewerenottogetthismagnificentspecies。Atlengththefruitripenedonthefig-treeclosebymyhouse，andmanybirdscametofeedonit；andonemorning，asIwastakingmycoffee，amaleParadiseBirdwasseentosettleonitstop。Iseizedmygun，ranunderthetree，and，gazingup，couldseeitflyingacrossfrombranchtobranch，seizingafruithereandanotherthere，andthen，beforeIcouldgetasufficientaimtoshootatsuchaheight(foritwasoneoftheloftiesttreesofthetropics)，itwasawayintotheforest。

Theynowvisitedthetreeeverymorning；buttheystayedsoshortatime，theirmotionsweresorapid，anditwassodifficulttoseethem，owingtothelowertrees，whichimpededtheview，thatitwasonlyafterseveraldays\'watching，andoneortwomisses，thatIbroughtdownmybird——amaleinthemostmagnificentplumage。

ThisbirddiffersverymuchfromthetwolargespecieswhichI

hadalreadyobtained，and，althoughitwantsthegraceimpartedbytheirlonggoldentrains，isinmanyrespectsmoreremarkableandmorebeautiful。Thehead，back，andshouldersareclothedwitharicheryellow，thedeepmetallicgreencolourofthethroatextendsfurtheroverthehead，andthefeathersareelongatedontheforeheadintotwolittleerectilecrests。Thesideplumesareshorter，butareofarichredcolour，terminatingindelicatewhitepoints，andthemiddletail-

feathersarerepresentedbytwolongrigidglossyribands，whichareblack，thin，andsemi-cylindrical，anddroopgracefullyinaspiralcurve。Severalotherinterestingbirdswereobtained，andabouthalf-a-dozenquitenewones；butnoneofanyremarkablebeauty，exceptthelovelylittledove，Ptilonopuspulchellus，whichwithseveralotherpigeonsIshotonthesamefig-treeclosetomyhouse。Itisofabeautifulgreencolourabove，withaforeheadoftherichestcrimson，whilebeneathitisashywhiteandrichyellow，bandedwithvioletred。

OntheeveningofourarrivalatMukaIobservedwhatappearedlikeadisplayofAuroraBorealis，thoughIcouldhardlybelievethatthiswaspossibleatapointalittlesouthoftheequator。

Thenightwasclearandcalm，andthenorthernskypresentedadiffusedlight，withaconstantsuccessionoffaintverticalflashingsorflickerings，exactlysimilartoanordinaryaurorainEngland。Thenextdaywasfine，butafterthattheweatherwasunprecedentedlybad，consideringthatitoughttohavebeenthedrymonsoon。Fornearamonthwehadwetweather；thesuneithernotappearingatall，oronlyforanhourortwoaboutnoon。

Morningandevening，aswellasnearlyallnight，itrainedordrizzled，andboisterouswinds，withdarkclouds，formedthedailyprogramme。Withtheexceptionthatitwasnevercold，itwasjustsuchweatherasaverybadEnglishNovemberorFebruary。

ThepeopleofWaigiouarenottrulyindigenesoftheisland，whichpossessesno"Alfuros，"oraboriginalinhabitants。Theyappeartobeamixedrace，partlyfromGilolo，partlyfromNewGuinea。MalaysandAlfurosfromtheformerislandhaveprobablysettledhere，andmanyofthemhavetakenPapuanwivesfromSalwattyorDorey，whiletheinfluxofpeoplefromthoseplaces，andofslaves，hasledtotheformationofatribeexhibitingalmostallthetransitionsfromanearlypureMalayantoanentirelyPapuantype。ThelanguagespokenbythemisentirelyPapuan，beingthatwhichisusedonallthecoastsofMysol，Salwatty，thenorth-westofNewGuinea，andtheislandsinthegreatGeelvinkBay，——afactwhichindicatesthewayinwhichthecoastsettlementshavebeenformed。ThefactthatsomanyoftheislandsbetweenNewGuineaandtheMoluccas——suchasWaigiou，Guebe，Poppa，Obi，Batchian，aswellasthesouthandeastpeninsulasofGilolo——possessnoaboriginaltribes，butareinhabitedbypeoplewhoareevidentlymongrelsandwanderers，isaremarkablecorroborativeproofofthedistinctnessoftheMalayanandPapuanraces，andtheseparationofthegeographicalareastheyinhabit。Ifthesetwogreatracesweredirectmodifications，theoneoftheother，weshouldexpecttofindintheinterveningregionsomehomogeneousindigenousracepresentingintermediatecharacters。Forexample，betweenthewhitestinhabitantsofEuropeandtheblackKlingsofSouthIndia，thereareintheinterveningdistrictshomogeneousraceswhichformagradualtransitionfromonetotheother；whileinAmerica，althoughthereisaperfecttransitionfromtheAnglo-

Saxontothenegro，andfromtheSpaniardtotheIndian，thereisnohomogeneousraceforminganaturaltransitionfromonetotheother。IntheMalayArchipelagowehaveanexcellentexampleoftwoabsolutelydistinctraces，whichappeartohaveapproachedeachother，andintermingledinanunoccupiedterritoryataveryrecentepochinthehistoryofman；andIfeelsatisfiedthatnounprejudicedpersoncouldstudythemonthespotwithoutbeingconvincedthatthisisthetruesolutionoftheproblem，ratherthanthealmostuniversallyacceptedviewthattheyarebutmodificationsofoneandthesamerace。

ThepeopleofMukaliveinthatabjectstateofpovertythatisalmostalwaysfoundwherethesago-treeisabundant。Veryfewofthemtakethetroubletoplantanyvegetablesorfruit，butlivealmostentirelyonsagoandfish，sellingalittletripangortortoiseshelltobuythescantyclothingtheyrequire。Almostallofthem，however，possessoneormorePapuanslaves，onwhoselabourtheyliveinalmostabsoluteidleness，justgoingoutonlittlefishingortradingexcursions，asanexcitementintheirmonotonousexistence。TheyareundertheruleoftheSultanofTidore，andeveryyearhavetopayasmalltributeofParadisebirds，tortoiseshell，orsago。Toobtainthese，theygointhefineseasononatradingvoyagetothemainlandofNewGuinea，andgettingafewgoodsoncreditfromsomeCeramorBugistrader，makehardbargainswiththenatives，andgainenoughtopaytheirtribute，andleavealittleprofitforthemselves。

Suchacountryisnotaverypleasantonetolivein，forastherearenosuperfluities，thereisnothingtosell；andhaditnotbeenforatraderfromCeramwhowasresidingthereduringmystay，whohadasmallvegetablegarden，andwhosemenoccasionallygotafewsparefish，Ishouldoftenhavehadnothingtoeat。Fowls，fruit，andvegetablesareluxuriesveryrarelytobepurchasedatMuka；andevencocoa-nuts，soindispensableforeasterncookery，arenottobeobtained；forthoughtherearesomehundredsoftreesinthevillage，allthefruitiseatengreen，tosupplytheplaceofthevegetablesthepeoplearetoolazytocultivate。Withouteggs，cocoa-nuts，orplantains，wehadveryshortcommons，andtheboisterousweatherbeingunpropitiousforfishing，wehadtoliveonwhatfeweatablebirdswecouldshoot，withanoccasionalcuscus，oreasternopossum，theonlyquadruped，exceptpigs，inhabitingtheisland。

IhadonlyshottwomaleParadiseasonmytreewhentheyceasedvisitingit，eitherowingtothefruitbecomingscarce，orthattheywerewiseenoughtoknowtherewasdanger。Wecontinuedtohearandseethemintheforest，butafteramonthhadnotsucceededinshootinganymore；andasmychiefobjectinvisitingWaigiouwastogetthesebirds，IdeterminedtogotoBessir，wherethereareanumberofPapuanswhocatchandpreservethem。Ihiredasmalloutriggerboatforthisjourney，andleftoneofmymentoguardmyhouseandgoods。Wehadtowaitseveraldaysforfineweather，andatlengthstartedearlyonemorning，andarrivedlateatnight，afteraroughanddisagreeablepassage。ThevillageofBessirwasbuiltinthewateratthepointofasmallisland。Thechieffoodofthepeoplewasevidentlyshell-fish，sincegreatheapsoftheshellshadaccumulatedintheshallowwaterbetweenthehousesandtheland，formingaregular"kitchen-midden"fortheexplorationofsomefuturearcheologist。Wespentthenightinthechief\'shouse，andthenextmorningwentovertothemainlandtolookoutforaplacewhereIcouldreside。ThispartofWaigiouisreallyanotherislandtothesouthofthenarrowchannelwehadpassedthroughincomingtoMuka。Itappearstoconsistalmostentirelyofraisedcoral，whereasthenorthernislandcontainshardcrystallinerocks。Theshoreswerearangeoflowlimestonecliffs，wornoutbythewater，sothattheupperpartgenerallyoverhung。Atdistantintervalswerelittlecovesandopenings，wheresmallstreamscamedownfromtheinterior；andinoneofthesewelanded，pullingourboatuponapatchofwhitesandybeach。Immediatelyabovewasalargenewly-madeplantationofyamsandplantains，andasmallhot，whichthechiefsaidwemighthavetheuseof，ifitwoulddoforme。Itwasquiteadwarf\'shouse，justeightfeetsquare，raisedonpostssothatthefloorwasfourandahalffeetabovetheground，andthehighestpartoftheridgeonlyfivefeetabovetheflour。AsIamsixfeetandaninchinmystockings，Ilookedatthiswithsomedismay；butfindingthattheotherhousesweremuchfurtherfromwater，weredreadfullydirty，andwerecrowdedwithpeople，Iatonceacceptedthelittleone，anddeterminedtomakethebestofit。AtfirstIthoughtoftakingoutthefloor，whichwouldleaveithighenoughtowalkinandoutwithoutstooping；butthentherewouldnotberoomenough，soIleftitjustasitwas，haditthoroughlycleanedout，andbroughtupmybaggage。TheupperstoryIusedforsleepingin，andforastore-room。Inthelowerpart(whichwasquiteopenallround)Ifixedupasmalltable，arrangedmyboxes，putuphanging-shelves，laidamatonthegroundwithmywicker-chairuponit，hungupanothermatonthewindwardside，andthenfoundthat，bybendingdoubleandcarefullycreepingin，Icouldsitonmychairwithmyheadjustclearoftheceiling。HereIlivedprettycomfortablyforsixweeks，takingallmymealsanddoingallmyworkatmylittletable，toandfromwhichIhadtocreepinasemi-horizontalpositionadozentimesaday；and，afterafewsevereknocksontheheadbysuddenlyrisingfrommychair，learnttoaccommodatemyselftocircumstances。Weputupalittleslopingcooking-butoutside，andabenchonwhichmyladscouldskintheirbirds。AtnightIwentuptomylittleloft，theyspreadtheirmatsonthe，floorbelow，andwenoneofusgrumbledatourlodgings。

MyfirstbusinesswastosendforthemenwhowereaccustomedtocatchtheBirdsofParadise。Severalcame，andIshowedthemmyhatchets，beads，knives，andhandkerchiefs；andexplainedtothem，aswellasIcouldbysigns，thepriceIwouldgiveforfresh-killedspecimens。Itistheuniversalcustomtopayforeverythinginadvance；butonlyonemanventuredonthisoccasiontotakegoodstothevalueoftwobirds。Therestweresuspicious，andwantedtoseetheresultofthefirstbargainwiththestrangewhiteman，theonlyonewhohadevercometotheirisland。Afterthreedays，mymanbroughtmethefirstbird——

averyfinespecimen，andalive，buttiedupinasmallbag，andconsequentlyitstailandwingfeathersverymuchcrushedandinjured。Itriedtoexplaintohim，andtotheothersthatcamewithhim，thatIwantedthemasperfectaspossible，andthattheyshouldeitherkillthem，orkeepthemonaperchwithastringtotheirleg。Astheywerenowapparentlysatisfiedthatallwasfair，andthatIhadnoulteriordesignsuponthem，sixotherstookawaygoods；someforonebird，someformore，andoneforasmanyassix。Theysaidtheyhadtogoalongwayforthem，andthattheywouldcomebackassoonastheycaughtany。Atintervalsofafewdaysoraweek，someofthemwouldreturn，bringingmeoneormorebirds；butthoughtheydidnotbringanymoreinbags，therewasnotmuchimprovementintheircondition。

Astheycaughtthemalongwayoffintheforest，theywouldscarcelyevercomewithone，butwouldtieitbythelegtoastick，andputitintheirhousetilltheycaughtanother。Thepoorcreaturewouldmakeviolenteffortstoescape，wouldgetamongtheashes，orhangsuspendedbythelegtillthelimbwasswollenandhalf-putrefied，andsometimesdieofstarvationandworry。Onehaditsbeautifulheadalldefiledbypitchfromadammartorch；anotherhadbeensolongdeadthatitsstomachwasturninggreen。Luckily，however，theskinandplumageofthesebirdsissofirmandstrong，thattheybearwashingandcleaningbetterthanalmostanyothersort；andIwasgenerallyabletocleanthemsowellthattheydidnotperceptiblydifferfromthoseIhadshotmyself。

Somefewwerebroughtmethesamedaytheywerecaught，andIhadanopportunityofexaminingtheminalltheirbeautyandvivacity。AssoonasIfoundtheyweregenerallybroughtalive，I

setoneofmymentomakealargebamboocagewithtroughsforfoodandwater，hopingtobeabletokeepsomeofthem。Igotthenativestobringmebranchesofafruittheywereveryfondof，andIwaspleasedtofindtheyateitgreedily，andwouldalsotakeanynumberoflivegrasshoppersIgavethem，strippingoffthelegsandwings，andthenswallowingthem。Theydrankplentyofwater，andwereinconstantmotion，jumpingaboutthecagefromperchtoperch，clingingonthetopandsides，andrarelyrestingamomentthefirstdaytillnightfall。Theseconddaytheywerealwayslessactive，althoughtheywouldeatasfreelyasbefore；andonthemorningofthethirddaytheywerealmostalwaysfounddeadatthebottomofthecage，withoutanyapparentcause。Someofthemateboiledriceaswellasfruitandinsects；

butaftertryingmanyinsuccession，notoneoutoftenlivedmorethanthreedays。Thesecondorthirddaytheywouldbedull，andinseveralcasestheywereseizedwithconvulsions，andfellofftheperch，dyingafewhoursafterwards。Itriedimmatureaswellasfull-plumagedbirds，butwithnobettersuccess，andatlengthgaveitupasahopelesstask，andconfinedmyattentiontopreservingspecimensinasgoodaconditionaspossible。

TheRedBirdsofParadisearenotshotwithbluntarrows，asintheAruIslandsandsomepartsofNewGuinea，butaresnaredinaveryingeniousmanner。AlargeclimbingArumbearsaredreticulatedfruit，ofwhichthebirdsareveryfond。Thehuntersfastenthisfruitonastoutforkedstick，andprovidethemselveswithafinebutstrongcord。Theythenseepoutsometreeintheforestonwhichthesebirdsareaccustomedtoperch，andclimbingupitfastenthesticktoabranchandarrangethecordinanoosesoingeniously，thatwhenthebirdcomestoeatthefruititslegsarecaught，andbypullingtheendofthecord，whichhangsdowntotheground，itcomesfreefromthebranchandbringsdownthebird。Sometimes，whenfoodisabundantelsewhere，thehuntersitsfrommorningtillnightunderhistreewiththecordinhishand，andevenfortwoorthreewholedaysinsuccession，withoutevengettingabite；while，ontheotherhand，ifverylucky，hemaygettwoorthreebirdsinaday。

ThereareonlyeightortenmenatBessirwhopractisethisart，whichisunknownanywhereelseintheisland。Idetermined，therefore，tostayaslongaspossible，asmyonlychanceofgettingagoodseriesofspecimens；andalthoughIwasnearlystarved，everythingeatablebycivilizedmanbeingscarceoraltogetherabsent，Ifinallysucceeded。

Thevegetablesandfruitintheplantationsaroundusdidnotsufficeforthewantsoftheinhabitants，andwerealmostalwaysduguporgatheredbeforetheywereripe。Itwasveryrarelywecouldpurchasealittlefish；fowlstherewerenone；andwewerereducedtoliveupontoughpigeonsandcockatoos，withourriceandsago，andsometimeswecouldnotgetthese。Havingbeenalreadyeightmonthsonthisvoyage，mystockofallcondiments，spicesandbutter，wasexhausted，andIfounditimpossibletoeatsufficientofmytastelessandunpalatablefoodtosupporthealth。Igotverythinandweak，andhadacuriousdiseaseknown(Ihavesinceheard)asbrow-ague。Directlyafterbreakfasteverymorninganintensepainsetinonasmallspotontherighttemple。Itwasasevereburningache，asbadastheworsttoothache，andlastedabouttwohours，generallygoingoffatnoon。Whenthisfinallyceased，Ihadanattackoffever，whichleftmesoweakandsounabletoeatourregularfood，thatI

feelsuremylifewassavedbyacoupleoftinsofsoupwhichI

hadlongreservedforsomesuchextremity。Iusedoftentogooutsearchingaftervegetables，andfoundagreattreasureinalotoftomatoplantsrunwild，andbearinglittlefruitsaboutthesizeofgooseberries。Ialsoboiledupthetopsofpumpkinplantsandofferns，bywayofgreens，andoccasionallygotafewgreenpapaws。Thenatives，whenhardupforfood，liveuponafleshyseaweed，whichtheyboiltillitistender。Itriedthisalso，butfoundittoosaltandbittertobeendured。

TowardstheendofSeptemberitbecameabsolutelynecessaryformetoreturn，inordertomakeourhomewardvoyagebeforetheendoftheeastmonsoon。Mostofthemenwhohadtakenpaymentfrommehadbroughtthebirdstheyhadagreedfor。Onepoorfellowhadbeensounfortunateasnottogetone，andheveryhonestlybroughtbacktheaxehehadreceivedinadvance；another，whohadagreedforsix，broughtmethefifthtwodaysbeforeIwastostart，andwentoffimmediatelytotheforestagaintogettheother。Hedidnotreturn，however，andweloadedourboat，andwerejustonthepointofstarting，whenhecamerunningdownafterusholdingupabird，whichhehandedtome，sayingwithgreatsatisfaction，"NowIoweyounothing。"Thesewereremarkableandquiteunexpectedinstancesofhonestyamongsavages，whereitwouldhavebeenveryeasyforthemtohavebeendishonestwithoutfearofdetectionorpunishment。

ThecountryroundaboutBessirwasveryhillyandrugged，bristlingwithjaggedandhoney-combedcorallinerocks，andwithcuriouslittlechasmsandravines。Thepathsoftenpassedthroughtheserockyclefts，whichinthedepthsoftheforestweregloomyanddarkintheextreme，andoftenfulloffine-leavedherbaceousplantsandcuriousblue-foliagedLycopodiaceae。ItwasinsuchplacesasthesethatIobtainedmanyofmymostbeautifulsmallbutterflies，suchasSospitastatiraandTaxilapulchra，thegorgeousblueAmblypodiahercules，andmanyothers。OntheskirtsoftheplantationsIfoundthehandsomeblueDeudorixdespoena，andintheshadywoodsthelovelyLycaenawallacei。Here，too，I

obtainedthebeautifulThycaaruna，oftherichestorangeontheupperside；whilebelowitisintensecrimsonandglossyblack；

andasuperbspecimenofagreenOrnithoptera，absolutelyfreshandperfect，andwhichstillremainsoneofthegloriesofmycabinet。

Mycollectionofbirds，thoughnotveryrichinnumberofspecies，wasyetveryinteresting。IgotanotherspecimenoftherareNewGuineakite(Henicopernislongicauda)，alargenewgoatsucker(Podargussuperciliaris)，andamostcuriousground-

pigeonofanentirelynewgenus，andremarkableforitslongandpowerfulbill。IthasbeennamedHenicophapsalbifrons。Iwasalsomuchpleasedtoobtainafineseriesofalargefruit-pigeonwithaprotuberanceonthebill(Carpophagatumida)，andtoascertainthatthiswasnot，ashadbeenhithertosupposed，asexualcharacter，butwasfoundequallyinmaleandfemalebirds。

Icollectedonlyseventy-threespeciesofbirdsinWaigiou，buttwelveofthemwereentirelynew，andmanyothersveryrare；andasIbroughtawaywithmetwenty-fourfinespecimensoftheParadisearubra，Ididnotregretmyvisittotheisland，althoughithadbynomeansansweredmyexpectations。

CHAPTERXXXVII。

VOYAGEFROMWAIGIOUTOTERNATE。

(SEPTEMBER29ToNOVEMBER5，1860。)

IHADlefttheoldpilotatWaigioutotakecareofmyhouseandtogettheprauintosailingorder——tocaulkherbottom，andtolookaftertheupperworks，thatch，andringing。WhenIreturnedIfounditnearlyready，andimmediatelybeganpackingupandpreparingforthevoyage。Ourmainsailhadformedonesideofourhouse，butthespankerandjibhadbeenputawayintheroof，andonopeningthemtoseeifanyrepairswerewanted，toourhorrorwefoundthatsomeratshadmadethemtheirnest，andhadgnawedthroughthemintwentyplaces。Wehadthereforetobuymattingandmakenewsails，andthisdelayedustillthe29thofSeptember，whenweatlengthleftWaigiou。

Ittookusfourdaysbeforewecouldgetclearoftheland，havingtopassalongnarrowstraitsbesetwithreefsandshoals，andfullofstrongcurrents，sothatanunfavourablewindstoppedusaltogether。Oneday，whennearlyclear，acontrarytideandheadwinddroveustenmilesbacktoouranchorageofthenightbefore。Thisdelaymadeusafraidofrunningshortofwaterifweshouldbebecalmedatsea，andwethereforedetermined，ifpossible，totouchattheislandwhereourmenhadbeenlost，andwhichlaydirectlyinourpropercourse。Thewindwas，however，asusual，contrary，beingS。S。W。insteadofS。S。E。，asitshouldhavebeenatthistimeoftheyear，andallwecoulddowastoreachtheislandofGagie，wherewecametoananchorbymoonlightunderbarevolcanichills。Inthemorningwetriedtoenteradeepbay，attheheadofwhichsomeGalelafishermentoldustherewaswater，butahead-windpreventedus。Fortherewardofahandkerchief，however，theytookustotheplaceintheirboat，andwefilledupourjarsandbamboos。Wethenwentroundtotheircamping-placeonthenorthcoastoftheislandtotryandbuysomethingtoeat，butcouldonlygetsmokedturtlemeatasblackandashardaslumpsofcoal。AlittlefurtherontherewasaplantationbelongingtoGuebepeople，butunderthecareofaPapuanslave，andthenextmorningwegotsomeplantainsandafewvegetablesinexchangeforahandkerchiefandsomeknives。Onleavingthisplaceouranchorhadgotfoulinsomerockorsunkenloginverydeepwater，andaftermanyunsuccessfulattempts，wewereforcedtocutourrattancableandleaveitbehindus。Wehadnowonlyoneanchorleft。

Startingearly，onthe4thofOctober，thesameS。S。Wwindcontinued，andwebegantofearthatweshouldhardlyclearthesouthernpointofGilolo。Thenightofthe5thwassqually，withthunder，butaftermidnightitgottolerablyfair，andweweregoingalongwithalightwindaridlookingoutforthecoastofGilolo，whichwethoughtwemustbenearing，whenweheardadullroaringsound，likeaheavysurf，behindus。Inashorttimetheroarincreased，andwesawawhitelineoffoamcomingon，whichrapidlypasseduswithoutdoinganyharm，asourboatroseeasilyoverthewave。Atshortintervals，tenoradozenothersovertookuswithbleatrapidity，andthentheseabecameperfectlysmooth，asitwasbefore。Iconcludedatoncethatthesemustbeearthquakewaves；andonreferencetotheoldvoyagerswefindthattheseseashavebeenlongsubjecttosimilarphenomena。

DampierencounteredthemnearMysolandNewGuinea，anddescribesthemasfollows："Wefoundhereverystrangetides，thatraninstreams，makingagreatsea，androaringsoloudthatwecouldhearthembeforetheycamewithinamileofus。Thesearoundaboutthemseemedallbroken，andtossedtheshipsothatshewouldnotanswerherhelm。Theseripplingscommonlylastedtenortwelveminutes，andthentheseabecameasstillandsmoothasamillpond。Wesoundedoftenwheninthemidstofthem，butfoundnoground，neithercouldweperceivethattheydroveusanyway。

Wehadinonenightseveralofthesetides，thatcamemostlyfromthewest，andthewindbeingfromthatquarterwecommonlyheardthemalongtimebeforetheycame，andsometimesloweredourtopsails，thinkingitwasagustofwind。Theywereofgreatlength，fromnorthtosouth，buttheirbreadthnotexceeding200

yards，andtheydroveagreatpace。Forthoughwehadlittlewindtomoveus，yettheseworldsoonpassaway，andleavethewaterverysmooth，andjustbeforeweencounteredthemwemetagreatswell，butitdidnotbreak。"Sometimeafterwards，IlearntthatanearthquakehadbeenfeltonthecoastofGilolotheverydaywehadencounteredthesecuriouswaves。

Whendaylightcame，wesawthelandofGiloloafewmilesoff，butthepointwasunfortunatelyalittletowindwardofus。Wetriedtobraceupallwecouldtoroundit，butasweapproachedtheshorewegotintoastrongcurrentsettingnorthward，whichcarriedussorapidlywithitthatwefounditnecessarytostandoffagain，inordertogetoutofitsinfluence。Sometimesweapproachedthepointalittle，andourhopesrevived；thenthewindfell，andwedriftedslowlyaway。Nightfoundusinnearlythesamepositionaswehadoccupiedinthemorning，sowehungdownouranchorwithaboutfifteenfathomsofcabletopreventdrifting。Onthemorningofthe7thwewerehowever，agoodwayupthecoast，andwenowthoughtouronlychancewouldbetogotclosein-shore，wheretheremightbeareturncurrent，andwecouldthenrow。Theprauwasheavy，andmymenverypoorcreaturesforwork，sothatittookussixhourstogettotheedgeofthereefthatfringedtheshore；andasthewindmightatanymomentblowontoit，oursituationwasaverydangerousone。

Luckily，ashortdistanceofftherewasasandybay，whereasmallstreamstoppedthegrowthofthecoral；andbyeveningwereachedthisandanchoredforthenight。HerewefoundsomeGalelamenshootingdeerandpigs；buttheycouldnotorwouldnotspeakMalay，andwecouldgetlittleinformationfromthem。

Wefoundoutthatalongshorethecurrentchangedwiththetide，whileaboutamileoutitwasalwaysoneway，andagainstus；andthisgaveussomehopesofgettingbacktothepoint，fromwhichwewerenowdistanttwentymiles。NextmorningwefoundthattheGalelamenhadleftbeforedaylight，havingperhapssomevaguefearofourintentions，analverylikelytakingmeforapirate。

Duringthemorningaboatpassed，andthepeopleinformedusthat，atashortdistancefurthertowardsthepoint，therewasamuchbetterharbour，wheretherewereplentyofGalelamen，fromwhomwe，mightprobablygetsomeassistance。

Atthreeintheafternoon，whenthecurrentturned，westarted；

buthavingahead-wind，madeslowprogress。Atduskwereachedtheentranceoftheharbour，butaneddyandagustofwindcarriedusawayandouttosea。Aftersunsettherewasalandbreeze，andwesailedalittletothesouth-east。Itthenbecamecalm，andevehungdownouranchorfortyfathoms，toendeavourtocounteractthecurrent；butitwasoflittleavail，andinthemorningwefoundourselvesagoodwayfromshore，andjustoppositeouranchorageofthedaybefore，whichweagainreachedbyhardrowing。Igavethementhisdaytorestandsleep；andthenextday(Oct。10th)weagainstartedattwointhemorningwithalandbreeze。AfterIhadsetthemtotheiroars，andgiveninstructionstokeepclosein-shore，andonnoaccounttogetouttosea，Iwentbelow，beingratherunwell。AtdaybreakIfound，tomygreatastonishment，thatwewereagainfaroff-shore，andwastoldthatthewindhadgraduallyturnedmoreahead，andhadcarriedusout——noneofthemhavingthesensetotakedownthesailandrowin-shore，ortocallme。Assoonasitwasdaylight，wesawthatwehaddriftedback，andwereagainoppositeourformeranchorage，and，forthethirdtime，hadtorowhardtogettoit。Asweapproachedtheshore，Isawthatthecurrentwasfavourabletous，andwecontinueddownthecoasttillwewereclosetotheentrancetothelowerharbour。Justaswewerecongratulatingourselvesonhavingatlastreachedit，astrongsouth-eastsquallcarneon，blowingusback，andrenderingitimpossibleforustoenter。Notlikingtheideaofagainreturning，Ideterminedontryingtoanchor，andsucceededindoingso，inverydeepwaterandclosetothereefs；buttheprevailingwindsweresuchthat，shouldwenothold，weshouldhavenodifficultyingettingouttosea。Bythetimethesquallhadpassed，thecurrenthadturnedagainstus，andweexpectedtohavetowaittillfourintheafternoon，whenweintendedtoentertheharbour。

Now，however，cametheclimaxofourtroubles。Theswellproducedbythesquallmadeusjerkourcableagooddeal，anditsuddenlysnappedlowdowninthewater。Wedriftedouttosea，andimmediatelysetourmainsail，butwewerenowwithoutanyanchor，andinavesselsopoorlymannedthatitcouldnotberowedagainstthemostfeeblecurrentortheslightestwind，itwordbemadnesstoapproachthesedangerousshoresexceptinthemostperfectcalm。Wehadalsoonlythreedays\'foodleft。Itwasthereforeoutofthequestionmakinganyfurtherattemptstogetroundthepointwithoutassistance，andIatoncedeterminedtoruntothevillageofGani-diluar，abouttenmilesfurthernorth，whereweunderstoodtherewasagoodharbour，andwherewemightgetprovisionsandafewmorerowers。Hithertowindsandcurrentsloadinvariablyopposedourpassagesouthward，andwemighthaveexpectedthemtobefavourabletousnowwehadturnedourbowspritinanoppositedirection。Butitimmediatelyfellcalm，andthenafteratimeawesterlylandbreezesetin，whichwouldnotserveus，andwehadtorowagainforhours，andwhennightcamehadnotreachedthevillage。Weweresofortunate，however，astofindadeepshelteredcovewherethewaterwasquitesmooth，andweconstructedatemporaryanchorbyfillingasackwithstonesfromourballast，whichbeingwellsecuredbyanetworkofrattansheldussafelyduringthenight。Thenextmorningmymenwentonshoretocutwoodsuitableformakingfreshanchors，andaboutnoon，thecurrentturninginourfavour，weproceededtothevillage，wherewefoundanexcellentandwell-protectedanchorage。

Oninquiry，wefoundthattheheadmenresidedattheotherGanionthewesternsideofthepeninsula，anditwasnecessarytosendmessengersacross(abouthalfaday\'sjourney)toinformthemofmyarrival，andtobegthemtoassistme。Ithensucceededinbuyingalittlesago，somedrieddeer-meatandcocoa-nuts，whichatoncerelievedourimmediatewantofsomethingtoeat。Atnightwefoundourbagofatonesstillheldusverywell，andweslepttranquilly。

Thenextday(October12th)，mymensettoworkmakinganchorsandoars。ThenativeMalayanchorisingeniouslyconstructedofapieceoftoughforkedtimber，theflukebeingstrengthenedbytwistedrattansbindingittothestem，whilethecross-pieceisformedofalongflatstone，securedinthesamemanner。Theseanchorswhenwellmade，holdexceedinglyarm，and，owingtotheexpenseofiron，arestillalmostuniversallyusedonboardthesmallerpraus。Intheafternoontheheadmenarrived，andpromisedmeasmanyrowersasIcouldputontheprau，andalsobroughtmeafeweggsandalittlerice，whichwereveryacceptable。Onthe14ththerewasanorthwindallday，whichwouldhavebeeninvaluabletousafewdaysearlier，butwhichwasnowonlytantalizing。Onthe16th，allbeingready，westartedatdaybreakwithtwonewanchorsandtenrowers，whounderstoodtheirwork。Byeveningwehadcomemorethanhalf-waytothepoint，andanchoredforthenightinasmallbay。AtthreethenextmorningIorderedtheanchorup，buttherattancablepartedclosetothebottom，havingbeenchafedbyrocks，andwethenlostourthirdanchoronthisunfortunatevoyage。Thedaywascalm，andbynoonwepassedthesouthernpointofGilolo，whichhaddelayeduselevendays，whereasthewholevoyageduringthismonsoonshouldnothaveoccupiedmorethanhalfthattime。

Havinggotroundthepointourcoursewasexactlyintheoppositedirectiontowhatithadbeen，andnow，asusual，thewindchangedaccordingly，comingfromthenorthandnorth-west，——sothatwestillhadtoroweverymileuptothevillageofGani，whichwedidnotreachtilltheeveningofthe18th。ABugistraderwhowasresidingthere，andtheSenaji，orchief，wereverykind；theformerassistingmewithaspareanchorandacable，andmakingmeapresentofsomevegetables，andthelatterbakingfreshsagocakesformymen；andgivingrueacoupleoffowls，abottleofoil，andsomepumpkins。Astheweatherwasstillveryuncertain，IgotfourextramentoaccompanymetoTernate，forwhichplacewestartedontheafternoonofthe20th。