第9章

TheinhabitantofmostpartsofnorthernEuropeseesintheearththeemblemofstabilityandrepose。Hiswholelife-

experience，andthatofallhisageandgeneration，teacheshimthattheearthissolidandfirm，thatitsmassiverocksmaycontainwaterinabundance，butneverfire；andtheseessentialcharacteristicsoftheeartharemanifestineverymountainhiscountrycontains。Avolcanoisafactopposedtoallthismassofexperience，afactofsoawfulacharacterthat，ifitweretheruleinsteadoftheexception，itwouldmaketheearthuninhabitableafactsostrangeandunaccountablethatwemaybesureitwouldnotbebelievedonanyhumantestimony，ifpresentedtousnowforthefirsttime，asanaturalphenomenonhappeninginadistantcountry。

Thesummitofthesmallislandiscomposedofahighlycrystallinebasalt；lowerdownIfoundahard，stratifiedslateysandstone，whileonthebeacharehugeblocksoflava，andscatteredmassesofwhitecorallinelimestone。Thelargerislandhascoralrocktoaheightofthreeorfourhundredfeet，whileaboveislavaandbasalt。Itseemsprobable，therefore，thatthislittlegroupoffourislandsisthefragmentofalargerdistrictwhichwasperhapsonceconnectedwithCeram，butwhichwasseparatedandbrokenupbythesameforceswhichformedthevolcaniccone。WhenIvisitedthelargerislandonanotheroccasion，Isawaconsiderabletractcoveredwithlargeforesttrees——dead，butstillstanding。Thiswasarecordofthelastgreatearthquakeonlytwoyearsago，whentheseabrokeinoverthispartoftheislandandsofloodeditastodestroythevegetationonallthelowlands。Almosteveryyearthereisanearthquakehere，andatintervalsofafewyears，verysevereoneswhichthrowdownhousesandcarryshipsoutoftheharbourbodilyintothestreets。

Notwithstandingthelossesincurredbytheseterrificvisitations，andthesmallsizeandisolatedpositionoftheselittleislands，theyhavebeenandstillareofconsiderablevaluetotheDutchGovernment，asthechiefnutmeg-gardenintheworld。Almostthewholesurfaceisplantedwithnutmegs，grownundertheshadeofloftyKanarytrees(Kanariumcommune)。Thelightvolcanicsoil，theshade，andtheexcessivemoistureoftheseislands，whereitrainsmoreorlesseverymonthintheyear，seemexactlytosuitthenutmeg-tree，whichrequiresnomanureandscarcelyanyattention。Alltheyearroundflowersandripefruitaretobefound，andnoneofthosediseasesoccurwhichunderaforcedandunnaturalsystemofcultivationhaveruinedthenutmegplantersofSingaporeandPenang。

Fewcultivatedplantsaremorebeautifulthannutmeg-trees。Theyarehandsomelyshapedandglossy-leaved，growingtotheheightoftwentyorthirtyfeet，andbearingsmallyellowishflowers。Thefruitisthesizeandcolourofapeach，butratheroval。Itisofatoughfleshyconsistence，butwhenripesplitsopen，andshowsthedark-brownnutwithin，coveredwiththecrimsonmace，andisthenamostbeautifulobject。Withinthethin，hardshellofthenutistheseed，whichisthenutmegofcommerce。ThenutsareeatenbythelargepigeonsofBanda，whichdigestthemace，butcastupthenutwithitsseeduninjured。

ThenutmegtradehashithertobeenastrictmonopolyoftheDutchGovernment；butsinceleavingthecountryIbelievethatthismonopolyhasbeenpartiallyorwhollydiscontinued，aproceedingwhichappearsexceedinglyinjudiciousandquiteunnecessary。

Therearecasesinwhichmonopoliesareperfectlyjustifiable，andIbelievethistobeoneofthem。AsmallcountrylikeHollandcannotaffordtokeepdistantandexpensivecoloniesataloss；andhavingpossessionofaverysmallislandwhereavaluableproduct，notanecessityoflife，canbeobtainedatlittlecost，itisalmostthedutyofthestatetomonopoliseit。Noinjuryisdonetherebytoanyone，butagreatbenefitisconferreduponthewholepopulationofHollandanditsdependencies，sincetheproduceofthestatemonopoliessavesthemfromtheweightofaheavytaxation。HadtheGovernmentnotkeptthenutmegtradeofBandainitsownhands，itisprobablethatthewholeoftheislandswouldlongagohavebecomethepropertyofoneormorelargecapitalists。Themonopolywouldhavebeenalmostthesame，sincenoknownspotontheglobecanproducenutmegssocheaplyasBanda，buttheprofitsofthemonopolyworldhavegonetoafewindividualsinsteadoftothenation。

Asanillustrationofhowastatemonopolymaybecomeastateduty，letussupposethatnogoldexistedinAustralia，butthatithadbeenfoundinimmensequantitiesbyoneofourshipsinsomesmallandbarrenisland。Inthiscaseitwouldplainlybecomethedutyofthestatetokeepandworktheminesforthepublicbenefit，sincebydoingso，thegainwouldbefairlydividedamongthewholepopulationbydecreaseoftaxation；whereasbyleavingitopentofreetradewhilemerelykeepingthegovernmentoftheisland；weshouldcertainlyproduceenormousevilsduringthefirststruggleforthepreciousmetal，andshouldultimatelysubsideintothemonopolyofsomewealthyindividualorgreatcompany，whoseenormousrevenuewouldnotequallybenefitthecommunity。ThenutmegsofBandaandthetinofBancaaretosomeextentparallelcasestothissupposititiousone，andIbelievetheDutchGovernmentwillactmostunwiselyiftheygiveuptheirmonopoly。

Eventhedestructionofthenutmegandclovetreesinmanyislands，inordertorestricttheircultivationtooneortwowherethemonopolycouldbeeasilyguarded，usuallymadethethemeofsomuchvirtuousindignationagainsttheDutch，maybedefendedonsimilarprinciples，andiscertainlynotnearlysobadasmanymonopoliesweourselveshaveuntilveryrecentlymaintained。Nutmegsandclovesarcnotnecessariesoflife；theyarenotevenusedasspicesbythenativesoftheMoluccas，andnoonewasmateriallyorpermanentlyinjuredbythedestructionofthetrees，sincethereareahundredotherproductsthatcanbegrowninthesameislands，equallyvaluableandfarmorebeneficialinasocialpointofview。ItisacaseexactlyparalleltoourprohibitionofthegrowthoftobaccoinEngland，forfiscalpurposes，andis，morallyandeconomically，neitherbetternorworse。ThesaltmonopolywhichwesolongmaintainedinIndiawasinmuchworse。Aslongaswekeepupasystemofexciseandcustomsonarticlesofdailyuse，whichrequiresanelaboratearrayofofficersandcoastguardstocarryintoeffect，andwhichcreatesanumberofpurelylegalcrimes，itistheheightofabsurdityforustoaffectindignationattheconductoftheDutch，whocarriedoutamuchmorejustifiable，lesshurtful，andmoreprofitablesystemintheirEasternpossessions。

IchallengeobjectorstopointoutanyphysicalormoralevilsthathaveactuallyresultedfromtheactionoftheDutchGovernmentinthismatter；whereassuchevilsaretheadmittedresultsofeveryoneofourmonopoliesandrestrictions。Theconditionsofthetwoexperimentsaretotallydifferent。Thetrue"politicaleconomy"ofahigherrace，whengoverningalowerrace，hasneveryetbeenworkedout。Theapplicationofour"politicaleconomy"tosuchcasesinvariablyresultsintheextinctionordegradationofthelowerrace；whence，wemayconsideritprobablethatoneofthenecessaryconditionsofitstruthistheapproximatementalandsocialunityofthesocietyinwhichitisapplied。IshallagainrefertothissubjectinmychapteronTernate，oneofthemostcelebratedoftheoldspice-islands。

ThenativesofBandaareverymuchmixed，anditisprobablethatatleastthree-fourthsofthepopulationaremongrels，invariousdegreesofMalay，Papuan，Arab，Portuguese，andDutch。Thefirsttwoformthebasesofthelargerportion，andthedarkskins，pronouncedfeatures，andmoreorlessfrizzlyhairofthePapuanspreponderates。ThereseemslittledoubtthattheaboriginesofBandawerePapuans，andaportionofthemstillexistsintheKeislands，wheretheyemigratedwhenthePortuguesefirsttookpossessionoftheirnativeisland。Itissuchpeopleasthesethatareoftenlookeduponastransitionalformsbetweentwoverydistinctraces，liketheMalaysandPapuans，whereastheyareonlyexamplesofintermixture。

TheanimalproductionsofBanda，thoughveryfew，areinteresting。TheislandshaveperhapsnotrulyindigenousMammaliabutbats。ThedeeroftheMoluccasandthepighaveprobablybeenintroduced。AspeciesofCuscusorEasternopossumisalsofoundatBanda，andthismaybetrulyindigenousinthesenseofnothavingbeenintroducedbyman。Ofbirds，duringmythreevisitsofoneortwodayseach，Icollectedeightkinds，andtheDutchcollectorshaveaddedafewothers。Themostremarkableisafineandveryhandsomefruit-pigeon，Carpophagaconcinna，whichfeedsuponthenutmegs，orratheronthemace，andwhoseloudboomingnoteistobecontinuallyheard。ThisbirdisfoundintheKeandMatabelloislandsaswellasBanda，butnotinCeramoranyofthelargerislands，whichareinhabitedbyalliedbutverydistinctspecies。Abeautifulsmallfruit-dove，Ptilonopusdiadematus，isalsopeculiartoBanda。

CHAPTERXX。

AMBOYNA

(DECEMBER1857，OCTOBER1859，FEBRUARY1860。)

TWENTYhoursfromBandabroughtustoAmboyna，thecapitaloftheMoluccas，andoneoftheoldestEuropeansettlementsintheEast。

Theislandconsistsoftwopeninsulas，sonearlydividedbyinletsofthesea，astoleaveonlyasandyisthmusaboutamilewideneartheireasternextremity。ThewesterninletisseveralmileslongandformsafineharbouronthesouthernsideofwhichissituatedthetownofAmboyna。IhadaletterofintroductiontoDr。Mohnike，thechiefmedicalofficeroftheMoluccas，aGermanandanaturalist。IfoundthathecouldwriteandreadEnglish，butcouldnotspeakit，beinglikemyselfabadlinguist；sowehadtouseFrenchasamediumofcommunication。

HekindlyofferedmearoomduringmystayinAmboyna，andintroducedmetohisjunior，Dr。Doleschall，aHungarianandalsoanentomolog？st。HewasanintelligentandmostamiableyoungmanbutIwasshockedtofindthathewasdyingofconsumption，thoughstillabletoperformthedutiesofhisoffice。IntheeveningmyhosttookmetotheresidenceoftheGovernor，Mr。

Goldmann，whoreceivedmeinamostkindandcordialmanner，andofferedmeeveryassistance。ThetownofAmboynaconsistsofafewbusinessstreets，andanumberofroadssetoutatrightanglestoeachother，borderedbyhedgesoffloweringshrubs，andenclosingcountryhousesandhutsembossedinpalmsandfruittrees。Hillsandmountainsformthebackgroundinalmosteverydirection，andtherearefewplacesmoreenjoyableforamorningoreveningstrollthanthesesandyroadsandshadylanesinthesuburbsoftheancientcityofAmboyna。

Therearenoactivevolcanoesintheisland，norisitnowsubjecttofrequentearthquakes，althoughverysevereoneshaveoccurredandmaybeexpectedagain。Mr。WilliamFunnell，inhisvoyagewithDampiertotheSouthSeasin1705，says："Whilstwewerehere，(atAmboyna)wehadagreatearthquake，whichcontinuedtwodays，inwhichtimeitdidagreatdealofmischief，forthegroundburstopeninmanyplaces，andswallowedupseveralhousesandwholefamilies。Severalofthepeopleweredugoutagain，butmostofthemdead，andmanyhadtheirlegsorarmsbrokenbythefallofthehouses。Thecastlewallswererentasunderinseveralplaces，andwethoughtthatitandallthehouseswouldhavefallendown。Thegroundwherewewereswelledlikeawaveinthesea，butnearuswehadnohurtdone。"Therearealsonumerousrecordsoferuptionsofavolcanoonthewestsideoftheisland。In1674aneruptiondestroyedavillage。In1694therewasanothereruption。InI797muchvapourandheatwasemitted。Othereruptionsoccurredin1816and1820，andin1824anewcraterissaidtohavebeenformed。Yetsocapriciousistheactionofthesesubterraneanfires，thatsincethelast-namedepochalleruptivesymptomshavesocompletelyceased，thatIwasassuredbymanyofthemostintelligentEuropeaninhabitantsofAmboyna，thattheyhadneverheardofanysuchthingasavolcanoontheisland。

DuringthefewdaysthatelapsedbeforeIcouldmakearrangementstovisittheinterior，Ienjoyedmyselfmuchinthesocietyofthetwodoctors，bothamiableandwell-educatedmen，andbothenthusiasticentomologists，thoughobligedtoincreasetheircollectionsalmostentirelybymeansofnativecollectors。

Dr。Doleschallstudiedchieflythefliesandspiders，butalsocollectedbutterfliesandmoths，andinhisboxesIsawgrandspecimensoftheemeraldOrnithopterapriamusandtheazurePapilioUlysses，withmanymoreofthesuperbbutterfliesofthisrichisland。Dr。Mohnikeconfinedhimselfchieflytothebeetles，andhadformedamagnificentcollectionduringmanyyearsresidenceinJava，Sumatra，Borneo，Japan，andAmboyna。TheJapanesecollectionwasespeciallyinteresting，containingboththefineCarabiofnortherncountries，andthegorgeousBuprestidaeandLongicornsofthetropics。ThedoctormadethevoyagetoJeddobylandfromNagasaki，andiswellacquaintedwiththecharacter，manners，andcustomsofthepeopleofJapan，andwiththegeology，physicalfeatures，andnaturalhistoryofthecountry。Heshowedmecollectionsofcheapwoodcutsprintedincolours，whicharesoldatlessthanafarthingeach，andcompriseanendlessvarietyofsketchesofJapanesesceneryandmanners。Thoughrude，theyareverycharacteristic，andoftenexhibittouchesofgreathumour。HealsopossessesalargecollectionofcolouredsketchesoftheplantsofJapan，madebyaJapaneselady，whicharethemostmasterlythingsIhaveeverseen。Everystem，twig，andleafisproducedbysingletouchesofthebrush，thecharacterandperspectiveofverycomplicatedplantsbeingadmirablygiven，andthearticulationsofstemandleavesshowninamostscientificmanner。

Havingmadearrangementstostayforthreeweeksatasmallhutonanewlyclearedplantationintheinteriorofthenorthernhalfoftheisland，Iwithsomedifficultyobtainedaboatandmentotakemeacrossthewater——fortheAmboynesearedreadfullylazy。Passinguptheharbour，inappearancelikeafineriver，theclearnessofthewateraffordedmeoneofthemostastonishingandbeautifulsightsIhaveeverbeheld。Thebottomwasabsolutelyhiddenbyacontinuousseriesofcorals，sponges，actinic，andothermarineproductionsofmagnificentdimensions，variedforms，andbrilliantcolours。Thedepthvariedfromabouttwentytofiftyfeet，andthebottomwasveryuneven，rocksandchasmsandlittlehillsandvalleys，offeringavarietyofstationsforthegrowthoftheseanimalforests。Inandoutamongthem，movednumbersofblueandredandyellowfishes，spottedandbandedandstripedinthemoststrikingmanner，whilegreatorangeorrosytransparentmedusafloatedalongnearthesurface。

Itwasasighttogazeatforhours，andnodescriptioncandojusticetoitssurpassingbeautyandinterest。Foronce，therealityexceededthemostglowingaccountsIhadeverreadofthewondersofacoralsea。Thereisperhapsnospotintheworldricherinmarineproductions，corals，shellsandfishes，thantheharbourofAmboyna。

Fromthenorthsideoftheharbour，agoodbroadpathpassesthroughswampclearingandforest，overhillandvalley，tothefarthersideoftheisland；thecorallinerockconstantlyprotrudingthroughthedeepredearthwhichfillsallthehollows，andismoreorlessspreadovertheplainsandhill-

sides。Theforestvegetationishereofthemostluxuriantcharacter；fernsandpalmsabound，andtheclimbingrattansweremoreabundantthanIhadeverseenthem，formingtangledfestoonsoveralmosteverylargeforesttree。ThecottageIwastooccupywassituatedinalargeclearingofaboutahundredacres，partofwhichwasalreadyplantedwithyoungcacao-treesandplantainstoshadethem，whiletherestwascoveredwithdeadandhalf-

burnedforesttrees；andononesidetherewasatractwherethetreeshadbeenrecentlyfelledandwerenotyetburned。ThepathbywhichIhadarrivedcontinuedalongonesideofthisclearing，andthenagainenteringthevirginforestpassedoverhillanddaletothenorthernaideoftheisland。

Myabodewasmerelyalittlethatchedhut，consistingofanopenverandahinfrontandasmalldarksleepingroombehind。Itwasraisedaboutfivefeetfromtheground，andwasreachedbyrudestepstothecentreoftheverandah。Thewallsandfloorwereofbamboo，anditcontainedatable，twobamboochairs，andacouch。

HereIsoonmademyselfcomfortable，andsettoworkhuntingforinsectsamongthemorerecentlyfelledtimber，whichswarmedwithfineCurculionidae，Longicorns，andBuprestidae，mostofthemremarkablefortheirelegantformsorbrilliantcolours，andalmostallentirelynewtome。OnlytheentomologistcanappreciatethedelightwithwhichIhuntedaboutforhoursinthehotsunshine，amongthebranchesandtwigsandbarkofthefallentrees，everyfewminutessecuringinsectswhichwereatthattimealmostallrareornewtoEuropeancollections。

Intheshadyforestpathsweremanyfinebutterflies，mostconspicuousamongwhichwastheshiningbluePapilioUlysses，oneoftheprincesofthetribe，thoughatthattimesorareinEurope，IfounditabsolutelycommoninAmboyna，thoughnoteasytoobtaininfinecondition，alargenumberofthespecimensbeingfoundwhencapturedtohavethewingstornorbroken。Itflieswitharatherweakundulatingmotion，andfromitslargesize，itstailedwingsandbrilliantcolour，isoneofthemosttropical-lookinginsectsthenaturalistcangazeupon。

ThereisaremarkablecontrastbetweenthebeetlesofAmboynaandthoseofMacassar，thelattergenerallysmallandobscure，theformerlargeandbrilliant。Onthewhole，theinsectsheremostresemblethoseoftheAruislands，buttheyarealmostalwaysofdistinctspecies，andwhentheyaremostnearlyalliedtoeachother，thespeciesofAmboynaareoflargersizeandmorebrilliantcolours，sothatonemightbeledtoconcludethatinpassingeastandwestintoalessfavourablesoilandclimate，theyhaddegeneratedintolessstrikingforms。

OfaneveningIgenerallysatreadingintheverandah，readytocaptureanyinsectsthatwereattractedtothelight。Onenightaboutnineo\'clock，Iheardacuriousnoiseandrustlingoverhead，asifsomeheavyanimalwerecrawlingslowlyoverthethatch。Thenoisesoonceased，andIthoughtnomoreaboutitandwenttobedsoonafterwards。Thenextafternoonjustbeforedinner，beingrathertiredwithmyday\'swork，Iwaslyingonthecouchwithabookinmyhand，whengazingupwardsIsawalargemassofsomethingoverheadwhichIhadnotnoticedbefore。

LookingmorecarefullyIcouldseeyellowandblackmarks，andthoughtitmustbeatortoise-shellputupthereoutofthewaybetweentheridge-poleandtheroofContinuingtogaze，itsuddenlyresolveditselfintoalargesnake，compactlycoiledupinakindofknot；andIcoulddetecthisheadandhisbrighteyesintheverycentreofthefolds。Thenoiseoftheeveningbeforewasnowexplained。Apythonhadclimbeduponeofthepostsofthehouse，andhadmadehiswayunderthethatchwithinayardofmyhead，andtakenupacomfortablepositionintheroof——andIhadsleptsoundlyallnightdirectlyunderhim。

Icalledtomytwoboyswhowereskinningbirdsbelowandsaid，"Here\'sabigsnakeintheroof；"butassoonasIhadshownittothemtheyrushedoutofthehouseandbeggedmetocomeoutdirectly。Findingtheyweretoomuchafraidtodoanything，wecalledsomeofthelabourersintheplantation，andsoonhadhalfadozenmeninconsultationoutside。Oneofthese，anativeofBouru，wherethereareagreatmanysnakes，saidhewouldgethimout，andproceededtoworkinabusinesslikemanner。Hemadeastrongnooseofrattan，andwithalongpoleintheotherhandpokedatthesnake，whothenbeganslowlytouncoilitself。Hethenmanagedtoslipthenooseoveritshead，andgettingitwellontothebody，draggedtheanimaldown。Therewasagreatscuffleasthesnakecoiledroundthechairsandpoststoresisthisenemy，butatlengththemancaughtholdofitstail，rushedoutofthehouse(runningsoquickthatthecreatureseemedquiteconfounded)，andtriedtostrikeitsheadagainstatree。Hemissedhowever，andletgo，andthesnakegotunderadeadtrunkcloseby。Itwasagainpokedout，andagaintheBournmancaughtholdofitstail，andrunningawayquicklydasheditsheadwithaswingagainstatree，anditwastheneasilykilledwithahatchet。Itwasabouttwelvefeetlongandverythick，capableofdoingmuchmischiefandofswallowingadogorachild。

Ididnotgetagreatmanybirdshere。Themostremarkablewerethefinecrimsonlory，Eosrubra——abrush-tonguedparroquetofavividcrimsoncolour，whichwasveryabundant。Largeflocksofthemcameabouttheplantation，andformedamagnificentobjectwhentheysettleddownuponsomefloweringtree，onthenectarofwhichloriesfeed。Ialsoobtainedoneortwospecimensofthefineracquet-tailedkingfisherofAmboyna，Tanysipteranais，oneofthemostsingularandbeautifulofthatbeautifulfamily。

Thesebirdsdifferfromallotherkingfishers(whichhaveusuallyshorttails)byhavingthetwomiddletail-feathersimmenselylengthenedandverynarrowlywebbed，butterminatedbyaspoon-

shapedenlargement，asinthemotmotsandsomeofthehumming-

birds。Theybelongtothatdivisionofthefamilytermedking-

hunters，livingchieflyoninsectsandsmallland-molluscs，whichtheydartdownuponandpickupfromtheground，justasakingfisherpicksafishoutofthewater。Theyareconfinedtoaverylimitedarea，comprisingtheMoluccas，NewGuineaandNorthernAustralia。Abouttenspeciesofthesebirdsarenowknown，allmuchresemblingeachother，butyetsufficientlydistinguishableineverylocality。TheAmboynesespecies，ofwhichaveryaccuraterepresentationisheregiven，isoneofthelargestandhandsomest。Itisfullseventeenincheslongtothetipsofthetail-feathers；thebilliscoralred，theunder-

surfacepurewhite，thebackandwingsdeeppurple，whiletheshoulders，headandnape，andsomespotsontheupperpartofthebackandwings，arepureazureblue；thetailiswhite，withthefeathersnarrowlyblue-edged，butthenarrowpartofthelongfeathersisrichblue。Thiswasanentirelynewspecies，andhasbeenwellnamedafteranoceangoddess，byMr。R。G。Gray。

OnChristmaseveIreturnedtoAmboyna，whereIstayedabouttendayswithmykindfriendDr。Mohnike。ConsideringthatIhadbeenawayonlytwentydays，andthatonfiveorsixofthoseIwaspreventeddoinganythingbywetweatherandslightattacksoffever，Ihadmadeaverynicecollectionofinsects，comprisingamuchlargerproportionoflargeandbrilliantspeciesthanIhadeverbeforeobtainedinsoshortatime。OfthebeautifulmetallicBuprestidaeIhadaboutadozenhandsomespecies，yetinthedoctor\'scollectionIobservedfourorfivemoreveryfineones，sothatAmboynaisunusuallyrichinthiselegantgroup。

DuringmystayhereIhadagoodopportunityofseeinghowEuropeansliveintheDutchcolonies，andwheretheyhaveadoptedcustomsfarmoreinaccordancewiththeclimatethanwehavedoneinourtropicalpossessions。Almostallbusinessistransactedinthemorningbetweenthehoursofsevenandtwelve，theafternoonbeinggivenuptorepose，andtheeveningtovisiting。Wheninthehouseduringtheheatoftheday，andevenatdinner，theyusealoosecottondress，onlyputtingonasuitofthinEuropean-madeclothesforoutofdoorsandeveningwear。Theyoftenwalkaboutaftersunsetbareheaded，reservingtheblackhatforvisitsofceremony。Lifeisthusmadefarmoreagreeable，andthefatigueanddiscomfortincidenttotheclimategreatlydiminished。Christmasdayisnotmademuchof，butonNewYear\'sdayofficialandcomplimentaryvisitsarepaid，andaboutsunsetwewenttotheGovernor\'s，wherealargepartyofladiesandgentlemenwereassembled。Teaandcoffeewerehandedaround，asisalmostuniversalduringavisit，aswellascigars，foronnooccasionissmokingprohibitedinDutchcolonies，cigarsbeinggenerallylightedbeforetheclothiswithdrawnatdinner，eventhoughhalfthecompanyareladies。IheresawforthefirsttimetherareblackloryfromNewGuinea，Chalcopsittaatra。Theplumageisratherglossy，andslightlytingedwithyellowishandpurple，thebillandfeetbeingentirelyblack。

ThenativeAmboynesewhoresideinthecityareastrangehalf-

civilized，half-savagelazypeople，whoseemtobeamixtureofatleastthreeraces——Portuguese，Malay，andPapuanorCeramese，withanoccasionalcrossofChineseorDutch。ThePortugueseelementdecidedlypredominatesintheoldChristianpopulation，asindicatedbyfeatures，habits，andtheretentionofmanyPortuguesewordsintheMalay，whichisnowtheirlanguage。Theyhaveapeculiarstyleofdresswhichtheywearamongthemselves，aclose-fittingwhiteshirtwithblacktrousers，andablackfrockoruppershirt。Thewomenseemtopreferadressentirelyblack。Onfestivalsandstateoccasionstheyadopttheswallow-

tailcoat，chimneypothat，andtheiraccompaniments，displayingalltheabsurdityofourEuropeanfashionabledress。ThoughnowProtestants，theypreserveatfeastsandweddingstheprocessionsandmusicoftheCatholicChurch，curiouslymixedupwiththegongsanddancesoftheaboriginesofthecountry。TheirlanguagehasstillmuchmorePortuguesethanDutchinit，althoughtheyhavebeeninclosecommunicationwiththelatternationformorethantwohundredandfiftyyears；evenmanynamesofbirds，treesandothernaturalobjects，aswellasmanydomesticterms，beingplainlyPortuguese。[ThefollowingareafewofthePortuguesewordsincommonusebytheMalay-speakingnativesofAmboynaandtheotherMoluccaislands：Pombo(pigeon)；milo(maize)；testa(forehead)；horas(hours)；alfinete(pin)；cadeira(chair)；lenco(handkerchief)；fresco(cool)；trigo(flour)；sono(sloop)；

familia(family)；histori(talk)；vosse(you)；mesmo(even)；

cunhado(brother-in-law)；senhor(sir)；nyoraforsignora(madam)。Noneofthem，however，havetheleastnotionthatthesewordsbelongtoaEuropeanlanguage。]Thispeopleseemstohavehadamarvellouspowerofcolonization，andacapacityforimpressingtheirnationalcharacteristicsoneverycountrytheyconquered，orinwhichtheyeffectedamerelytemporarysettlement。InasuburbofAmboynathereisavillageofaboriginalMalayswhoareMahometans，andwhospeakapeculiarlanguagealliedtothoseofCeram，aswellasMalay。Theyarechieflyfishermen，andaresaidtobebothmoreindustriousandmorehonestthanthenativeChristians。

IwentonSunday，byinvitation，toseeacollectionofshellsandfishmadebyagentlemanofAmboyna。Thefishesareperhapsunrivalledforvarietyandbeautybythoseofanyonespotontheearth。ThecelebratedDutchichthyologist，Dr。Blecker，hasgivenacatalogueofsevenhundredandeightyspeciesfoundatAmboyna，anumberalmostequaltothoseofalltheseasandriversofEurope。Alargeproportionofthemareofthemostbrilliantcolours，beingmarkedwithbandsandspotsofthepurestyellows，reds，andblues；whiletheirformspresentallthatstrangeandendlessvarietysocharacteristicoftheinhabitantsoftheocean。Theshellsarealsoverynumerous，andcompriseanumberofthefinestspeciesintheworld。TheMactrasandOstreasinparticularstruckmebythevarietyandbeautyoftheircolours。

ShellshavelongbeenanobjectoftrafficinAmboyna；manyofthenativesgettheirlivingbycollectingandcleaningthem，andalmosteveryvisitortakesawayasmallcollection。Theresultisthatmanyofthecommoner-sortshavelostallvalueintheeyesoftheamateur，numbersofthehandsomebutverycommoncones，cowries，andolivessoldinthestreetsofLondonforapennyeach，beingnativesofthedistantisleofAmboyna，wheretheycannotbeboughtsocheaply。Thefishesinthecollectionwereallwellpreservedinclearspiritinhundredsofglassjars，andtheshellswerearrangedinlargeshallowpithboxeslinedwithpaper，everyspecimenbeingfasteneddownwiththread。Iroughlyestimatedthattherewerenearlyathousanddifferentkindsofshells，andperhapstenthousandspecimens，whilethecollectionofAmboynafisheswasnearlyperfect。

Onthe4thofJanuaryIleftAmboynaforTernate；buttwoyearslater，inOctober1859，IagainvisiteditaftermyresidenceinMenado，andstayedamonthinthetowninasmallhousewhichI

hiredforthesakeofassortingandpackingupalargeandvariedcollectionwhichIhadbroughtwithmefromNorthCelebes，Ternate，andGilolo。IwasobligedtodothisbecausethemailsteamerwouldhavecomethefollowingmonthbywayofAmboynatoTernate，andIshouldhavebeendelayedtwomonthsbeforeIcouldhavereachedtheformerplace。IthenpaidmyfirstvisittoCeram，andonreturningtoprepareformysecondmorecompleteexplorationofthatisland，Istayed(muchagainstmywill)twomonthsatPaso，ontheisthmuswhichconnectsthetwoportionsoftheislandofAmboyna。Thisvillageissituatedontheeasternsideoftheisthmus，onsandyground，withaverypleasantviewovertheseatotheislandofHaruka。OntheAmboynasideoftheisthmusthereisasmallriverwhichhasbeencontinuedbyashallowcanaltowithinthirtyyardsofhigh-watermarkontheotherside。Acrossthissmallspace，whichissandyandbutslightlyelevated，allsmallboatsandprauscanbeeasilydragged，andallthesmallertrafficfromCeramandtheislandsofSaparúaandHarúka，passesthroughPaso。Thecanalisnotcontinuedquitethrough，merelybecauseeveryspring-tidewouldthrowupjustsuchasand-bankasnowexists。

IhadbeeninformedthatthefinebutterflyOrnithopterapriamuswasplentifulhere，aswellastheracquet-tailedkingfisherandthering-neckedlory。Ifound，however，thatIhadmissedthetimefortheformer：andbirdsofallkindswereveryscarce，althoughIobtainedafewgoodones，includingoneortwooftheabove-mentionedrarities。Iwasmuchpleasedtogetherethefinelong-armedchafer，Euchiruslongimanus。Thisextraordinaryinsectisrarelyornevercapturedexceptwhenitcomestodrinkthesapofthesugarpalms，whereitisfoundbythenativeswhentheygoearlyinthemorningtotakeawaythebambooswhichhavebeenfilledduringthenight。Forsometimeoneortwowerebroughtmeeveryday，generallyalive。Theyaresluggishinsects，andpullthemselveslazilyalongbymeansoftheirimmenseforelegs。A

figureofthisandotherMoluccanbeetlesisgiveninthe27thchapterofthiswork。

IwaskeptatPasobyaninflammatoryeruption，broughtonbytheconstantattacksofsmallacari-likeharvest-bugs，forwhichtheforestsofCeramarefamous，andalsobythewantofnourishingfoodwhileinthatisland。AtonetimeIwascoveredwithsevereboils。Ihadthemonmyeye，cheek，armpits，elbows，back，thighs，knees，andankles，sothatIwasunabletositorwalk，andhadgreatdifficultyinfindingasidetolieuponwithoutpain。Thesecontinuedforsomeweeks，freshonescomingoutasfastasothersgotwell；butgoodlivingandseabathsultimatelycuredthem。

AbouttheendofJanuaryCharlesAllen，whohadbeenmyassistantinMalaccaandBorneo，againjoinedmeonagreementforthreeyears；andassoonasIgottolerablywell，wehadplentytodolayinginstoresandmakingarrangementsforourensuingcampaign。Ourgreatestdifficultywasinobtainingmen，butatlastwesucceededingettingtwoeach。AnAmboynaChristiannamedTheodorusWatakena，whohadbeensometimewithmeandhadlearnedtoskinbirdsverywell，agreedtogowithAllen，aswellasaveryquietandindustriousladnamedCornelius，whomIhadbroughtfromMenado。IhadtwoAmboynese，namedPetrusRehatta，andMesachMatahena；thelatterofwhomhadtwobrothers，namedrespectivelyShadrachandAbednego，inaccordancewiththeusualcustomamongthesepeopleofgivingonlyScripturenamestotheirchildren。

DuringthetimeIresidedinthisplace，IenjoyedaluxuryIhavenevermetwitheitherbeforeorsince——thetruebread-fruit。A

gooddealofithasbeenplantedabouthereandinthesurroundingvillages，andalmosteverydaywehadopportunitiesofpurchasingsome，asalltheboatsgoingtoAmboynawereunloadedjustoppositemydoortobedraggedacrosstheisthmus。

ThoughitgrowsinseveralotherpartsoftheArchipelago，itisnowhereabundant，andtheseasonforitonlylastsashorttime。

Itisbakedentireinthehotembers，andtheinsidescoopedoutwithaspoon。IcomparedittoYorkshirepudding；CharlesAllensaiditwaslikemashedpotatoesandmilk。Itisgenerallyaboutthesizeofamelon，alittlefibroustowardsthecentre，buteverywhereelsequitesmoothandpuddingy，somethinginconsistencebetweenyeast-dumplingsandbatter-pudding。Wesometimesmadecurryorstewofit，orfrieditinslices；butitisnowaysogoodassimplybaked。Itmaybeeatensweetorsavory。WithmeatandgravyitisavegetablesuperiortoanyI

know，eitherintemperateortropicalcountries。Withsugar，milk，butter，ortreacle，itisadeliciouspudding，havingaveryslightanddelicatebutcharacteristicflavour，which，likethatofgoodbreadandpotatoes，onenevergetstiredof。Thereasonwhyitiscomparativelyscarceisthatitisafruitofwhichtheseedsareentirelyabortedbycultivation，andthetreecanthereforeonlybepropagatedbycuttings。Theseed-bearingvarietyiscommonalloverthetropics，andthoughtheseedsareverygoodeating，resemblingchestnuts，thefruitisquiteworthlessasavegetable。NowthatsteamandWard\'scasesrenderthetransportofyoungplantssoeasy，itismuchtobewishedthatthebestvarietiesofthisunequalledvegetableshouldbeintroducedintoourWestIndiaislands，andlargelypropagatedthere。Asthefruitwillkeepsometimeafterbeinggathered，wemightthenbeabletoobtainthistropicalluxuryinCoventGardenMarket。

AlthoughthefewmonthsIatvarioustimesspentinAmboynawerenotaltogetherveryprofitabletomeinthewayofcollections，itwillalwaysremainasabrightspotinthereviewofmyEasterntravels，sinceitwastherethatIfirstmadetheacquaintanceofthosegloriousbirdsandinsectswhichrendertheMoluccasclassicgroundintheeyesofthenaturalist，andcharacteriseitsfaunaasoneofthemostremarkableandbeautifulupontheglobe。Onthe20thofFebruaryIfinallyquittedAmboynaforCeramandWaigiou，leavingCharlesAllentogobyaGovernmentboattoWahaionthenorthcoastofCeram，andthencetotheunexploredislandofMysol。

EndofV1

TheMalayArchipelagobyAlfredRussellWallaceVOLUMEII

CHAPTERXXI

THEMOLUCCAS——TERNATE。

ONthemorningofthe8thofJanuary，1858，IarrivedatTernate，thefourthofarowoffineconicalvolcanicislandswhichshirtthewestcoastofthelargeandalmostunknownnislandofGilolo。ThelargestandmostperfectlyconicalmountainisTidore，whichisoverfourthousandFeethigh——Ternatebeingverynearlythesameheight，butwithamoreroundedandirregularsummit。ThetownofTernateisconcealedfromviewtillweenterbetweenthetwoislands，whenitisdiscoveredstretchingalongtheshoreattheverybaseofthemountain。Itssituationisfine，andtherearegrandviewsoneveryside。CloseoppositeistheruggedpromontoryandbeautifulvolcanicconeofTidore；totheeastisthelongmountainouscoastofGilolo，terminatedtowardsthenorthbyagroupofthreeloftyvolcanicpeaks，whileimmediatelybehindthetownrisesthehugemountain，slopingeasilyatfirstandcoveredwiththickgrovesoffruittrees，butsoonbecomingsteeper，andfurrowedwithdeepgullies。Almosttothesummit，whenceissueperpetuallyfaintwreathsofsmoke，itisclothedwithvegetation，andlookscalmandbeautiful，althoughbeneatharehiddenfireswhichoccasionallyburstforthinlava-streams，butmorefrequentlymaketheirexistenceknownbytheearthquakeswhichhavemanytimesdevastatedthetown。

IbroughtlettersofintroductiontoMr。Duivenboden，anativeofTernate，ofanancientDutchfamily，butwhowaseducatedinEngland，andspeaksourlanguageperfectly。Hewasaveryrichman，ownedhalfthetown，possessedmanyships，andaboveahundredslaves。Hewasmoreover，welleducated，andfondofliteratureandscience——aphenomenonintheseregions。HewasgenerallyknownasthekingofTernate，fromhislargepropertyandgreatinfluencewiththenativeRajahsandtheirsubjects。

ThroughhisassistanceIobtainedahouse；ratherruinous，butwelladaptedtomypurpose，beingclosetothetown，yetwithafreeoutlettothecountryandthemountain。Afewneedfulrepairsweresoonmade，somebamboofurnitureandothernecessariesobtained，andafteravisittotheResidentandPoliceMagistrateIfoundmyselfaninhabitantoftheearthquake-

torturedislandofTernate，andabletolookaboutmeandlaydowntheplanofmycampaignfortheensuingyear。Iretainedthishouseforthreeyears，asIfounditveryconvenienttohaveaplacetoreturntoaftermyvoyagestothevariousislandsoftheMoluccasandNewGuinea，whereIcouldpackmycollections，recruitmyhealth，andmakepreparationsforfuturejourneys。Toavoidrepetitions，IwillinthischaptercombinewhatnotesI

haveaboutTernate。

Adescriptionofmyhouse(theplanofwhichishereshown)willenablethereadertounderstandaverycommonmodeofbuildingintheseislands。Thereisofcourseonlyonefloor。Thewallsareofstoneuptothreefeethigh；onthisarestrongsquaredpostssupportingtheroof，everywhereexceptintheverandahfilledinwiththeleaf-stemsofthesago-palm，fittedneatlyinwoodenowing。Thefloorisofstucco，andtheceilingsarelikethewalls。Thehouseisfortyfeetsquare，consistsoffourrooms，ahall，andtwoverandahs，andissurroundedbyawildernessoffruittrees。Adeepwellsuppliedmewithpurecoldwater，agreatluxuryinthisclimate。Fiveminutes\'walkdowntheroadbroughtmetothemarketandthebeach，whileintheoppositedirectiontherewerenomoreEuropeanhousesbetweenmeandthemountain。InthishouseIspentmanyhappydays。Returningtoitafterathreeorfourmonths\'absenceinsomeuncivilizedregion，Ienjoyedtheunwontedluxuriesofmilkandfreshbread，andregularsuppliesoffishandeggs，meatandvegetables，whichwereoftensorelyneededtorestoremyhealthandenergy。Ihadamplespaceandconvenienceorunpacking，sorting，andarrangingmytreasures，andIhaddelightfulwalksinthesuburbsofthetown，orupthelowerslopesofthemountain，whenIdesiredalittleexercise，orhadtimeforcollecting。

Thelowerpartofthemountain，behindthetownofTernate，isalmostentirelycoveredwithaforestoffruittrees，andduringtheseasonhundredsofmenandwomen，boysandgirls，goupeverydaytobringdowntheripefruit。DuriansandMangoes，twooftheveryfinesttropicalfruits，areingreaterabundanceatTernatethanIhaveeverseenthem，andsomeofthelatterareofaqualitynotinferiortoanyintheworld。LansatsandMangustansarealsoabundant，butthesedonotripentillalittlelater。

Abovethefruittreesthereisabeltofclearingsandcultivatedgrounds，whichcreepupthemountaintoaheightofbetweentwoandthreethousandfeet，abovewhichisvirginforest，reachingnearlytothesummit，whichonthesidenextthetowniscoveredwithahighreedygrass。Onthefurthersideitismoreelevated，ofabareanddesolateaspect，withaslightdepressionmarkingthepositionofthecrater。Fromthispartdescendsablackscoriaceoustract；veryrugged，andcoveredwithascantyvegetationofscatteredbushesasfardownasthesea。Thisisthelavaofthegreateruptionnearacenturyago，andiscalledbythenatives"batu-angas"(burntrock)。

Justbelowmyhouseisthefort，builtbythePortuguese，belowwhichisanopenspacetothepeach，andbeyondthisthenativetownextendsforaboutamiletothenorth-east。AboutthecentreofitisthepalaceoftheSultan，nowalargeuntidy，half-

ruinousbuildingofstone。ThischiefispensionedbytheDutchGovernment，butretainsthesovereigntyoverthenativepopulationoftheisland，andofthenorthernpartofGilolo。ThesultansofTernateandTidorewereoncecelebratedthroughtheEastfortheirpowerandregalmagnificence。WhenDrakevisitedTernatein1579，thePortuguesehadbeendrivenoutoftheisland，althoughtheystillhadasettlementatTidore。HegivesaglowingaccountoftheSultan："TheKinghadaveryrichcanopywithembossingsofgoldborneoverhim，andwasguardedwithtwelvelances。Fromthewaisttothegroundwasallclothofgold，andthatveryrich；intheattireofhisheadwerefinelywreathedin，diverseringsofplaitedgold，ofaninchormoreinbreadth，whichmadeafairandprincelyshow，somewhatresemblingacrowninform；abouthisneckhehadachainofperfectgold，thelinksverygreatandonefolddouble；onhislefthandwasadiamond，anemerald，aruby，andaturky；onhisrighthandinoneringabigandperfectturky，andinanotherringmanydiamondsofasmallersize。"

Allthisglitterofbarbaricgoldwastheproduceofthespicetrade，ofwhichtheSultanskeptthemonopoly，andbywhichtheybecamewealthy。Ternate，withthesmallislandsinalinesouthofit，asfarasBatchian，constitutetheancientMoluccas，thenativecountryoftheclove，aswellastheonlypartinwhichitwascultivated。NutmegsandmacewereprocuredfromthenativesofNewGuineaandtheadjacentislands，wheretheygrewwild；andtheprofitsonspicecargoesweresoenormous，thattheEuropeantradersweregladtogivegoldandjewels，andthefinestmanufacturesofEuropeorofIndia，inexchange。WhentheDutchestablishedtheirinfluenceintheseseas，andrelievedthenativeprincesfromtheirPortugueseoppressors，theysawthattheeasiestwaytorepaythemselveswouldbetogetthisspicetradeintotheirownhands。Forthispurposetheyadoptedthewiseprincipleofconcentratingthecultureofthesevaluableproductsinthosespotsonlyofwhichtheycouldhavecompletecontrol。Todothiseffectuallyitwasnecessarytoabolishthecultureandtradeinallotherplaces，whichtheysucceededindoingbytreatywiththenativerulers。Theseagreedtohaveallthespicetreesintheirpossessionsdestroyed。Theygaveuplargethoughfluctuatingrevenues，buttheygainedinreturnafixedsubsidy，freedomfromtheconstantattacksandharshoppressionsofthePortuguese，andacontinuanceoftheirregalpowerandexclusiveauthorityovertheirownsubjects，whichismaintainedinalltheislandsexceptTernatetothisday。

ItisnodoubtsupposedbymostEnglishmen，whohavebeenaccustomedtolookuponthisactoftheDutchwithvaguehorror，assomethingutterlyunprincipledandbarbarous，thatthenativepopulationsufferedgrievouslybythisdestructionofsuchvaluableproperty。Butitiscertainthatthiswasnotthecase。

TheSultanskeptthislucrativetradeentirelyintheirownhandsasarigidmonopoly，andtheywouldtakecarenottogive，theirsubjectsmorethanwouldamounttotheirusualwages，while：theywouldsurelyexactaslargeaquantityofspiceastheycouldpossiblyobtain。Drakeandotherearlyvoyagersalwaysseemtohavepurchasedtheirspice-cargoesfromtheSultansandRajahs，andnotfromthecultivators。Nowtheabsorptionofsomuchlabourinthecultivationofthisoneproductmustnecessarilyhaveraisedthepriceoffoodandothernecessaries；andwhenitwasabolished，morericewouldbegrown，moresagomade，morefishcaught，andmoretortoise-shell，rattan，gum-dammer，andothervaluableproductsoftheseasandtheforestswouldbeobtained。Ibelieve，therefore，thatthisabolitionofthespicetradeintheMoluccaswasactuallybeneficialtotheinhabitants，andthatitwasanactbothwiseinitselfandmorallyandpoliticallyjustifiable。

Intheselectionoftheplacesinwhichtocarryonthecultivation，theDutchwerenotaltogetherfortunateorwise。

Bandawaschosenfornutmegs，andwaseminentlysuccessful，sinceü；continuestothisdaytoproducealargesupplyofthisspice，andtoyieldaconsiderablerevenue。Amboynawasfixeduponforestablishingtheclovecultivation；butthesoilandclimate，althoughapparentlyverysimilartothatofitsnativeislands，isnotfavourable，andforsomeyearstheGovernmenthaveactuallybeenpayingtothecultivatorsahigherratethantheycouldpurchasecloveselsewhere，owingtoagreatfallinthepricesincetherateofpaymentwasfixedforatermofyearsbytheDutchGovernment，andwhichrateisstillmosthonourablypaid。

InwalkingaboutthesuburbsofTernate，wefindeverywheretheruinsofmassivestoneandbrickbuildings，gatewaysandarches，showingatoncethesuperiorwealthoftheancienttownandthedestructiveeffectsofearthquakes。Itwasduringmysecondstayinthetown，aftermyreturnfromNewGuinea，thatIfirstfeltanearthquake。Itwasaveryslightone，scarcelymorethanhasbeenfeltinthiscountry，butoccurringinaplacethatladbeenmanytimesdestroyedbythemitwasrathermoreexciting。Ihadjustawokeatgun-fire(5A。M。)，whensuddenlythethatchbegantorustleandshakeasifanarmyofcatsweregallopingoverit，andimmediatelyafterwardsmybedshooktoo，sothatforaninstantIimaginedmyselfbackinNewGuinea，inmyfragilehouse，whichshookwhenanoldcockwenttoroostontheridge；

butrememberingthatIwasnowonasolidearthenfloor，Isaidtomyself，"Why，it\'sanearthquake，"andlaystillinthepleasingexpectationofanothershock；butnonecame，andthiswastheonlyearthquakeIeverfeltinTernate。

ThelastgreatonewasinFebruary1840，whenalmosteveryhouseintheplacewasdestroyed。ItbeganaboutmidnightontheChineseNewYear\'sfestival，atwhichtimeeveryonestaysupnearlyallnightfeastingattheChinamen\'shousesandseeingtheprocessions。Thispreventedanylivesbeinglost，aseveryoneranoutofdoorsatthefirstshock，whichwasnotverysevere。

Thesecond，afewminutesafterwards，threwdownagreatmanyhouses，andothers，whichcontinuedallnightandpartofthenextday，completedthedevastation。Thelineofdisturbancewasverynarrow，sothatthenativetownamiletotheeastscarcelysufferedatall。Thewavepassedfromnorthtosouth，throughtheislandsofTidoreandMakian，andterminatedinBatchian，whereitwasnotfelttillfourthefollowingafternoon，thustakingnolessthansixteenhourstotravelahundredmiles，oraboutsixmilesanhour。Itissingularthatonthisoccasiontherewasnorushingupofthetide，orothercommotionofthesea，asisusuallythecaseduringgreatearthquakes。

ThepeopleofTernateareofthreewell-markedracestheTernateMalays，theOrangSirani，andtheDutch。ThefirstareanintrusiveMalayracesomewhatalliedtotheMacassarpeople，whosettledinthecountryataveryearlyepoch，droveouttheindigenes，whowerenodoubtthesameasthoseoftheadjacentmainlandofGilolo，andestablishedamonarchy。Theyperhapsobtainedmanyoftheirwivesfromthenatives，whichwillaccountfortheextraordinarylanguagetheyspeak——insomerespectscloselyalliedtothatofthenativesofGilolo，whileitcontainsmuchthatpointstoaMalayanorigin。TomostofthesepeopletheMalaylanguageisquiteunintelligible，althoughsuchasareengagedintradeareobligedtoacquireit。"OrangSirani，"orNazarenes，isthenamegivenbytheMalaystotheChristiandescendantsofthePortuguese，whoresemblethoseofAmboyna，and，likethem，speakonlyMalay。TherearealsoanumberofChinesemerchants，manyofthemnativesoftheplace，afewArabs，andanumberofhalf-breedsbetweenalltheseracesandnativewomen。BesidesthesetherearesomePapuanslaves，andafewnativesofotherislandssettledhere，makingupamotleyandverypuzzlingpopulation，tillinquiryandobservationhaveshownthedistinctoriginofitscomponentparts。

SoonaftermyfirstarrivalinTernateIwenttotheislandofGilolo，accompaniedbytwosonsofMr。Duivenboden，andbyayoungChinaman，abrotherofmylandlord，wholentustheboatandcrew。Theselatterwereallslaves，mostlyPapuans，andatstartingIsawsomethingoftherelationofmasterandslaveinthispartoftheworld。Thecrewhadbeenorderedtobereadyatthreeinthemorning，insteadofwhichnoneappearedtillfive，wehavingallbeenkeptwaitinginthedarkandcoldfortwohours。Whenatlengththeycametheywerescoldedbytheirmaster，butonlyinabanteringmanner，andlaughedandjokedwithhiminreply。Then，justaswewerestarting，oneofthestrongestmenrefusedtogoatall，andhismasterhadtobegandpersuadehimtogo，andonlysucceededbyassuringhimthatI

wouldgivehimsomething；sowiththispromise，andknowingthattherewouldbeplentytoeatanddrinkandlittletodo，theblackgentlemanwasinducedtofavouruswithhiscompanyandassistance。Inthreehours\'rowingandsailingwereachedourdestination，Sedingole，wherethereisahousebelongingtotheSultanofTidore，whosometimesgoestherehunting。Itwasadirtyruinousshed，withnofurniturebutafewbamboobedsteads。

Ontakingawalkintothecountry，Isawatoncethatitwasnoplaceforme。Formanymilesextendsaplaincoveredwithcoarsehighgrass，thicklydottedhereandtherewithtrees，theforestcountryonlycommencingatthehillsagoodwayintheinterior。

Suchaplacewouldproducefewbirdsandnoinsects，andwethereforearrangedtostayonlytwodays，andthengoontoDodinga，atthenarrowcentralisthmusofGilolo，whencemyfriendswouldreturntoTernate。Weamusedourselvesshootingparrots，lories，andpigeons，andtryingtoshootdeer，ofwhichwesawplenty，butcouldnotgetone；andourcrewwentoutfishingwithanet，sowedidnotwantforprovisions。Whenthetimecameforustocontinueourjourney，afreshdifficultypresenteditself，forourgentlemenslavesrefusedinabodytogowithus；sayingverydeterminedlythattheywouldreturntoTernate。Sotheirmasterswereobligedtosubmit，andIwasleftbehindtogettoDodingaasIcould。LuckilyIsucceededinhiringasmallboat，whichtookmetherethesamenight，withmytwomenandmybaggage。

Twoorthreeyearsafterthis，andaboutthesamelengthoftimebeforeIlefttheEast，theDutchemancipatedalltheirslaves，payingtheirownersasmallcompensation。Noillresultsfollowed。Owingtotheamicablerelationswhichhadalwaysexistedbetweenthemandtheirmasters，duenodoubtinparttotheGovernmenthavinglongaccordedthemlegalrightsandprotectionagainstcrueltyandill-usage，manycontinuedinthesameservice，andafteralittletemporarydifficultyinsomecases，almostallreturnedtoworkeitherfortheiroldorfornew，masters。TheGovernmenttooktheveryproperstepofplacingeveryemancipatedslaveunderthesurveillanceofthepolice-

magistrate。Theywereobligedtoshowthattheywereworkingforaliving，andhadsomehonestly-acquiredmeansofexistence。Allwhocouldnotdosowereplaceduponpublicworksatlowwages，andthuswerekeptfromthetemptationtopeculationorothercrimes，whichtheexcitementofnewly-acquiredfreedom，anddisinclinationtolabour，mighthaveledtheminto。

CHAPTERXXII。

GILOLO。

(MARCHANDSEPTEMBER1858。)

IMADEbutfewandcomparativelyshortvisitstothislargeandlittleknownisland，butobtainedaconsiderableknowledgeofitsnaturalhistorybysendingfirstmyboyAli，andthenmyassistant，CharlesAllen，whostayedtwoorthreemonthseachinthenorthernpeninsula，andbroughtmebacklargecollectionsofbirdsandinsects。InthischapterIproposetogiveasketchofthepartswhichImyselfvisited。MyfirststaywasatDodinga，situatedattheheadofadeep-bayexactlyoppositeTernate，andashortdistanceupalittlestreamwhichpenetratesafewmilesinland。Thevillageisasmallone，andiscompletelyshutinbylowhills。

AssoonasIarrived，Iappliedtotheheadmanofthevillageforahousetolivein，butallwereoccupied，andtherewasmuchdifficultyinfindingone。InthemeantimeIunloadedmybaggageonthebeachandmadesometea，andafterwardsdiscoveredasmallbutwhichtheownerwaswillingtovacateifIwouldpayhimfiveguildersforamonth\'srent。Asthiswassomethinglessthanthefee-simplevalueofthedwelling，Iagreedtogiveithimfortheprivilegeofimmediateoccupation，onlystipulatingthathewastomaketheroofwater-tight。Thisheagreedtodo，andcameeverydaytotallyandlookatme；andwhenIeachtimeinsisteduponhisimmediatelymendingtheroofaccordingtocontract，alltheanswerIcouldgetwas，"Eananti，"(Yes，waitalittle。)

However，whenIthreatenedtodeductaquarterguilderfromtherentforeverydayitwasnotdone，andaguilderextraifanyofmythingswerewetted，hecondescendedtoworkforhalfanhour，whichdidallthatwasabsolutelynecessary。

Onthetopofabank，ofaboutahundredfeetascentfromthewater，standstheverysmallbutsubstantialforterectedbythePortuguese。Itsbattlementsandturretshavelongsincebeenoverthrownbyearthquakes，bywhichitsmassivestructurehasalsobeenrent；butitcannotwellbethrowndown，beingasolidmassofstonework，formingaplatformabouttenfeethigh，andperhapsfortyfeetsquare。Itisapproachedbynarrowstepsunderanarchway，andisnowsurmountedbyarowofthatchedhovels，inwhichlivethesmallgarrison，consistingof，aDutchcorporalandfourJavanesesoldiers，thesolerepresentativesoftheNetherlandsGovernmentintheisland。ThevillageisoccupiedentirelybyTernatemen。ThetrueindigenesofGilolo，"Alfuros"

astheyareherecalled，liveontheeasterncoast，orintheinteriorofthenorthernpeninsula。Thedistanceacrosstheisthmusatthisplaceisonlytwomiles，andthere，isagoodpath，alongwhichriceandsagoarebroughtfromtheeasternvillages。Thewholeisthmusisveryrugged，thoughnothigh，beingasuccessionoflittleabrupthillsanalvalleys，withangularmassesoflimestonerockeverywhereprojecting，andoftenalmostblockingupthepathway。Mostofitisvirginforest，veryluxuriantandpicturesque，andatthistimehavingabundanceoflargescarletIxorasinflower，whichmadeitexceptionallygay。

Igotsomeveryniceinsectshere，though，owingtoillnessmostofthetime，mycollectionwasasmallone，andmyboyAlishotmeapairofoneofthemostbeautifulbirdsoftheEast，Pittagigas，alameground-thrush，whoseplumageofvelvetyblackaboveisrelievedbyabreastofpurewhite，shouldersofazureblue，andbellyofvividcrimson。Ithasverylongandstronglegs，andhopsaboutwithsuchactivityinthedensetangledforest，bristlingwithrocks，astomakeitverydifficulttoshoot。

InSeptember1858，aftermyreturnfromNewGuinea，IwenttostaysometimeatthevillageofDjilolo，situatedinabayonthenorthernpeninsula。HereIobtainedahousethroughthekindnessoftheResidentofTernate，whosentorderstoprepareoneforme。Thefirstwalkintotheunexploredforestsofanewlocalityisamomentofintenseinteresttothenaturalist，asitisalmostsuretofurnishhimwithsomethingcuriousorhithertounknown。ThefirstthingIsawherewasaflockofsmallparroquets，ofwhichIshotapair，andwaspleasedtofindamostbeautifullittlelong-tailedbird，ornamentedwithgreen，red，andbluecolours，andquitenewtome。ItwasavarietyoftheCharmosynaplacentis，oneofthesmallestandmostelegantofthebrush-tonguedlories。Myhunterssoonshotmeseveralotherfinebirds，andImyselffoundaspecimenoftherareandbeautifulday-flyingmoth，Cocytiad\'Urvillei。

ThevillageofDjilolowasformerlythechiefresidenceoftheSultansofTernate，tillabouteightyyearsago，whenattherequestoftheDutchtheyremovedtotheirpresentabode。Theplacewasthennodoubtmuchmorepopulous，asisindicatedbythewideextentofclearedlandintheneighbourhood，nowcoveredwithcoarsehighgrass，verydisagreeabletowalkthrough，andutterlybarrentothenaturalist。Afewdays\'exploringshowedmethatonlysomesmallpatchesofforestremainedformileswound，andtheresultwasascarcityofinsectsandaverylimitedvarietyofbirds，whichobligedmetochangemylocality。TherewasanothervillagecalledSahoe，towhichtherewasaroadofabouttwelvemilesoverland，andthishadbeenrecommendedtomeasagoodplaceforbirds，andaspossessingalargepopulationbothofMahomotansandAlfuros，whichlatterraceImuchwishedtosee。Isetoffonemorningtoexaminethisplacemyself，expectingtopassthroughsomeextentofforestonmyway。InthishoweverIwasmuchdisappointed，asthewholeroadliesthroughgrassandscrubbythickets，anditwasonlyafterreachingthevillageofSahoethatsomehighforestlandwasperceivedstretchingtowardsthemountainstothenorthofit。

Abouthalf-waywedadtopassadeepriveronabambooraft，whichalmostsunkbeneathus。Thisstreamwassaidtorisealongwayofftothenorthward。

AlthoughSahoedidnotatallappearwhatIexpected，I

determinedtogiveitatrial，andafewdaysafterwardsobtainedaboattocarrymythingsbyseawhileIwalkedoverland。AlargehouseonthebeachbelongingtotheSultanwasgivenme。Itstoodalone，andwasquiteopenoneveryside，sothatlittleprivacycouldbehad，butasIonlyintendedtostayashorttimeImadeitdo。Avery，fewdaysdispelledallhopesImighthaveentertainedofmakinggoodcollectionsinthisplace。Nothingwastobefoundineverydirectionbutinterminabletractsofreedygrass，eightortenfeethigh，traversedbynarrowbaths，oftenalmostimpassable。Hereandtherewereclumpsoffruittrees，patchesoflowwood，andabundanceofplantationsandricegrounds，allofwhichare，intropicalregions，averydesertfortheentomologist。ThevirginforestthatIwasinsearchof，existedonlyonthesummitsandonthesteeprockysidesofthemountainsalongwayoff，andininaccessiblesituations。InthesuburbsofthevillageIfoundafairnumberofbeesandwasps，andsomesmallbutinterestingbeetles。Twoorthreenewbirdswereobtainedbymyhunters，andbyincessantinquiriesandpromisesísucceededingettingthenativestobringmesomelandshells，amongwhichwasaveryfineandhandsomeone，Helixpyrostoma。Iwas，however，completelywastingmytimeherecomparedwithwhatImightbedoinginagoodlocality，andafteraweekreturnedtoTernate，quitedisappointedwithmyfirstattemptsatcollectinginGilolo。

InthecountryroundaboutSahoe，andintheinterior，thereisalargepopulationofindigenes，numbersofwhomcamedailyintothevillage，bringingtheirproduceforsale，whileotherswereengagedaslabourersbytheChineseandTernatetraders。A

carefulexaminationconvincedmethatthesepeopleareradicallydistinctfromalltheMalayraces。Theirstatureandtheirfeatures，aswellastheirdispositionandhabits，arealmostthesameasthoseofthePapuans；theirhairissemi-Papuan-neitherstraight，smooth，andglossy，likealltrueMalays\'，norsofrizzlyandwoollyastheperfectPapuantype，butalwayscrisp，waved，andrough，suchasoftenoccursamongthetruePapuans，butneveramongtheMalays。TheircolouraloneisoftenexactlythatoftheMalay，orevenlighter。Ofcoursetherehasbeenintermixture，andthereoccuroccasionallyindividualswhichitisdifficulttoclassify；butinmostcasesthelarge，somewhataquilinenose，withelongatedapex，thetallstature，thewavedhair，thebeardedface，andhairybody，aswellasthelessreservedmannerandloudervoice，unmistakeablyproclaimthePapuantype。HerethenIhaddiscoveredtheexactboundarylicebetweentheMalayandPapuanraces，andataspotwherenootherwriterhadexpectedit。Iwasverymuchpleasedatthisdetermination，asitgavemeacluetooneofthemostdifficultproblemsinEthnology，andenabledmeinmanyotherplacestoseparatethetworaces，andtounraveltheirintermixtures。

OnmyreturnfromWaigiouin1860，IstayedsomedaysonthesouthernextremityofGilolo；but，beyondseeingsomethingmoreofitsstructureandgeneralcharacter，obtainedverylittleadditionalinformation。Itisonlyinthenorthernpeninsulathatthereareanyindígenes，thewholeoftherestoftheisland，withBatchianandtheotherislandswestward，beingexclusivelyinhabitedbyMalaytribes，alliedtothoseofTernateandTidore。

ThiswouldseemtoindicatethattheAlfuroswereacomparativelyrecentimmigration，andthattheyleadcomefromthenorthoreast，perhapsfromsomeoftheislandsofthePacific。Itisotherwisedifficulttounderstandhowsomanyfertiledistrictsshouldpossessnotrueindigenes。

Gilolo，orHalmaheiraasitiscalledbytheMalaysandDutch，seemstohavebeenrecentlymodifiedbyupheavalandsubsidence。

In1673，amountainissaidtostavebeenupheavedatGamokonoraonthenorthernpeninsula。AllthepartsthatIhaveseenhaveeitherbeenvolcanicorcoralline，andalongthecoasttherearefringingcoralreefsverydangeroustonavigation。Atthesametime，thecharacterofitsnaturalhistoryprovesittobearatherancientland，sinceitpossessesanumberofanimalspeculiartoitselforcommontothesmallislandsaroundit，butalmostalwaysdistinctfromthoseofNewGuineaontheeast，ofCeramonthesouth，andofCelebesandtheSulaislandsonthewest。

TheislandofMorty，closetothenorth-easternextremityofGilolo，wasvisitedbymyassistantCharlesAllen，aswellasbyDr。Bernstein；andthecollectionsobtainedtherepresentsomecuriousdifferencesfromthoseofthemainisland。Aboutfifty-

sixspeciesofland-birdsareknowntoinhabitthisisland，andofthese，akingfisher(TanysipteraBoris)，ahoney-sucker(Tropidorhynchusfuscicapillus)，andalargecrow-likestarling(Lycocoraxmorotensis)，arequitedistinctfromalliedspeciesfoundinGilolo。Theislandiscorallineandsandy，andwemustthereforebelieveittohavebeenseparatedfromGiloloatasomewhatremoteepoch；whilewelearnfromitsnaturalhistorythatanarmoftheseatwenty-fivemileswideservestolimittherangeevenofbirdsofconsiderablepowersofflight。

CHAPTERXXIII。

TERNATETOTHEKAIOAISLANDSANDBATCHIAN。

(OCTOBER1858。)

ONreturningtoTernatefromSahoe，IatoncebeganmakingpreparationsforajourneytoBatchian，anislandwhichIhadbeenconstantlyrecommendedtovisitsinceIhadarrivedinthispartoftheMoluccas。AfterallwasreadyIfoundthatIshouldhavetohireaboat，asnoopportunityofobtainingapassagepresenteditself。Iaccordinglywentintothenativetown，andcouldonlyfindtwoboatsforhire，onemuchlargerthanI

required，andtheotherfarsmallerthanIwished。Ichosethesmallerone，chieflybecauseitwouldnotcostmeone-thirdasmuchasthelargerone，andalsobecauseinacoastingvoyageasmallvesselcanbemoreeasilymanaged，andmorereadilygotintoaplaceofsafetyduringviolentgales，thanalargeone。I

tookwithmemyBorneanladAli，whowasnowveryusefultome；

Lahagi，anativeofTernate，averygoodsteadyman，andafairshooter，whohadbeenwithmetoNewGuinea；Lahi，anativeofGilolo，whocouldspeakMalay，aswoodcutterandgeneralassistant；andGaro，aboywhowastoactascook。Astheboatwassosmallthatwehadhardlyroomtostowourselvesawaywhenallmystoreswereonboard，IonlytookoneothermannamedLatchi，aspilot。HewasaPapuanslave，atall，strongblackfellow，butverycivilandcareful。TheboatIhadhiredfromaChinamannamedLauKengTong，forfiveguildersamonth。

WestartedonthemorningofOctober9th，buthadnotgotahundredyardsfromland，whenastrongheadwindsprungup，againstwhichwecouldnotrow，sowecreptalongshoretobelowthetown，andwaitedtilltheturnofthetideshouldenableustocrossovertothecoastofTidore。Aboutthreeintheafternoonwegotoff，andfoundthatourboatsailedwell，andwouldkeepprettyclosetothewind。Wegotonagoodwaybeforethewindfellandwehadtotaketoouroarsagain。Welandedonanicesandybeachtocookoursuppers，justasthesunsetbehindtheruggedvolcanichills，tothesouthofthegreatconeofTidore，andsoonafterbeheldtheplanetVenusshininginthetwilightwiththebrilliancyofanewmoon，andcastingaverydistinctshadow。Weleftagainalittlebeforeseven，andaswegotoutfromtheshadowofthemountainIobservedabrightlightoveronepartoftheedge，andsoonafter，whatseemedafireofremarkablewhitenessontheverysummitofthehill。Icalledtheattentionofmymentoit，andtheytoothoughtitmerelyafire；

butafewminutesafterwards，aswegotfartheroffshore，thelightroseclearupabovetheridgeofthehill，andsomefaintcloudsclearingawayfromit，discoveredthemagnificentcometwhichwasatthesametime，astonishingallEurope。Thenucleuspresentedtothenakedeyeadistinctdiscofbrilliantwhitelight，fromwhichthetailroseatanangleofabout30°or35°

withthehorizon，curvingslightlydownwards，andterminatinginabroadbrushoffaintlight，thecurvatureofwhichdiminishedtillitwasnearlystraightattheend。Theportionofthetailnextthecometappearedthreeorfourtunesasbrightasthemostluminousportionofthemilkyway，andwhatstruckmeasasingularfeaturewasthatitsuppermargin，fromthenucleustoveryneartheextremity，wasclearlyandalmostsharplydefined，whilethelowersidegraduallyshadedoffintoobscurity。

Directlyitroseabovetheridgeofthehill，Isaidtomymen，"See，it\'snotafire，it\'sabintangber-ekor"("tailed-star，"

theMalayidiomforacomet)。"Soitis，"saidthey；andalldeclaredthattheyhadoftenheardtellofsuch，buthadneverseenonetillnow。Ihadnotelescopewithme，noranyinstrumentathand，butIestimatedthelengthofthetailatabout20°，andthewidth，towardstheextremity，about4°or5°。

ThewholeofthenextdaywewereobligedtostopnearthevillageofTidore，owingtoastrongwindrightinourteeth。Thecountrywasallcultivated，andIinvainsearchedforanyinsectsworthcapturing。Oneofmymenwentouttoshoot，butreturnedhomewithoutasinglebird。Atsunset，thewindhavingdropped，wequittedTidore，andreachedthenextisland，March，wherewestayedtillmorning。Thecometwasagainvisible，butnotnearlysobrilliant，beingpartlyobscuredbyclouds；anddimmedbythelightofthenewmoon。WethenrowedacrosstotheislandofMotir，whichissosurroundedwithcoral-reefsthatitisdangeroustoapproach。Theseareperfectlyflat，andareonlycoveredathighwater，endingincraggyverticalwallsofcoralinverydeepwater。Whenthereisalittlewind，itisdangeroustocomeneartheserocks；butluckilyitwasquitesmooth，sowemooredtotheiredge，whilethemencrawledoverthereeftotheland，tomake；afireandcookourdinner-theboathavingnoaccommodationformorethanheatingwaterformymorningandeveningcoffee。Wethenrowedalongtheedgeofthereeftotheendoftheisland，andweregladtogetanicewesterlybreeze，whichcarriedusoverthestraittotheislandofMakian，wherewearrivedabout8P。M，Theskywasquiteclear，andthoughthemoonshonebrightly，thecometappearedwithquiteasmuchsplendouraswhenwefirstsawit。

Thecoastsofthesesmallislandsareverydifferentaccordingtotheirgeologicalformation。Thevolcanoes，activeorextinct，havesteepblackbeachesofvolcanicsand，orarefringedwithruggedmassesoflavaandbasalt。Coralisgenerallyabsent，occurringonlyinsmallpatchesinquietbays，andrarelyorneverformingreefs。Ternate，Tidore，andMakianbelongtothisclass。Islandsofvolcanicorigin，notthemselvesvolcanoes，butwhichhavebeenprobablyrecentlyupraised，aregenerallymoreorlesscompletelysurroundedbyfringingreefsofcoral，andhavebeachesofshiningwhitecoralsand。Theircoastspresentvolcanicconglomerates，basalt，andinsomeplacesafoundationofstratifiedrocks，withpatchesofupraisedcoral。MarehandMotirareofthischaracter，theoutlineofthelattergivingittheappearanceofhavingbeenatruevolcano，anditissaidbyForresttohavethrownoutstonesinl778。Thenextday(Oct。

12th)，wecoastedalongtheislandofMakian，whichconsistsofasinglegrandvolcano。Itwasnowquiescent，butabouttwocenturiesago(in1646)therewasaterribleeruption，whichblewupthewholetopofthemountain，leavingthetruncatedjaggedsummitandvastgloomycratervalleywhichatthistimedistinguishedit。ItwassaidtohavebeenasloftyasTidorebeforethiscatastrophe。[SoonafterI\'lefttheArchipelago，onthe29thofDecember，1862，anothereruptionofthismountainsuddenlytookplace，whichcausedgreatdevastationintheisland。Allthevillagesandcropsweredestroyed，andnumbersoftheinhabitantskilled。Thesandandashesfellsothickthatthecropswerepartiallydestroyedfiftymilesoff，atTernate，whereitwassodarkthefollowingdaythatlampshadtobelightedatnoon。Forthepositionofthisandtheadjacentislands，seethemapinChapterXXXVII。]

IstayedsometimeataplacewhereIsawanewclearingonaverysteeppartofthemountain，andobtainedafewinterestinginsects。Intheeveningwewentontotheextremesouthernpoint，tobereadytopassacrossthefifteen-milestraittotheislandofKaióa。Atfivethenextmorningwestarted，butthewind，whichhadhithertobeenwesterly，nowgottothesouthandsouthwest，andwehadtorowalmostallthewaywithaburningsunoverhead。Asweapproachedlandafinebreezesprangup，andwewentalongatagreatpace；yetafteranhourwewerenonearer，andfoundwewereinaviolentcurrentcarryingusouttosea。Atlengthweovercameit，andgotonshorejustasthesunset，havingbeenexactlythirteenhourscomingfifteenmiles。Welandedonabeachofhardcorallinerock，withruggedcliffsofthesame，resemblingthoseoftheKeIslands(Chap。XXIX。)Itwasaccompaniedbyabrilliancyandluxurianceofthevegetation，verylikewhatIhadobservedatthoseislands，whichsomuchpleasedmethatIresolvedtostayafewdaysatthechiefvillage，andseeiftheiranimalproductionswerecorrespondinglyinteresting。Whilesearchingforasecureanchorageforthenightweagainsawthecomet，stillapparentlyasbrilliantasatfirst，butthetailhadnowrisentoahigherangle。

October14th——AllthisdaywecoastedalongtheKaióaIslands，whichhavemuchtheappearanceandoutlineofKeonasmallscale，withtheadditionofflatswampytractsalongshore，andoutlyingcoralreefs。Contrarywindsandcurrentshadpreventedourtakingthepropercoursetothewestofthem，andwehadtogobyacircuitousrouteroundthesouthernextremityofoneisland，oftenhavingtogofarouttoseaonaccountofcoralreefs。Ontryingtopassachannelthroughoneofthesereefsweweregrounded，andallhadtogetoutintothewater，whichinthisshallowstraithadbeensoheatedbythesunastobedisagreeablywarm，anddragourvesselaconsiderabledistanceamongweedsandsponges，coralsandpricklycorallines。Itwaslateatnightwhenwereachedthelittlevillageharbour，andwewereallprettywellknockedupbyhardwork，andhavinghadnothingbutverybrackishwatertodrinkallday-thebestwecouldfindatourlaststopping-place。Therewasahouseclosetotheshore，builtfortheuseoftheResidentofTernatewhenhemadehisofficialvisits，butnowoccupiedbyseveralnativetravellingmerchants，amongwhomIfoundaplacetosleep。

ThenextmorningearlyIwenttothevillagetofindthe"Kapala，"orheadman。IinformedhimthatIwantedtostayafewdaysinthehouseatthelanding，andbeggedhimtohaveitmadereadyforme。Hewasverycivil，andcamedownatoncetogetitcleared，whenwefoundthatthetradershadalreadyleft，onhearingthatIrequiredit。Therewerenodoorstoit，soI

obtainedtheloanofacoupleofhurdlestokeepoutdogsandotheranimals。Thelandherewasevidentlysinkingrapidly，asshownbythenumberoftreesstandinginsaltwaterdeadanddying。AfterbreakfastIstartedforawalktotheforest-coveredhillabovethevillage，withacoupleofboysasguides。Itwasexceedinglyhotanddry，norainhavingfallenfortwomonths。

Whenwereachedanelevationofabouttwohundredfeet，thecorallinerockwhichfringestheshorewassucceededbyahardcrystallinerock，akindofmetamorphicsandstone。Thiswouldindicateflattherehadbeenarecentelevationofmorethantwohundredfeet，whichhadstillmorerecentlyclangedintoamovementofsubsidence。Thehillwasveryrugged，butamongdrysticksandfallentreesIfoundsomegoodinsects，mostlyofformsandspeciesIwasalreadyacquaintedwithfromTernateandGilolo。FindingnogoodpathsIreturned，andexploredthelowergroundeastwardofthevillage，passingthroughalongrangeofplantainandtobaccogrounds，encumberedwithfelledandburntlogs，onwhichIfoundquantitiesofbeetlesofthefamilyBuprestidaeofsixdifferentspecies，oneofwhichwasnewtome。

IthenreachedapathintheswampyforestwhereIhopedtofindsomebutterflies，butwasdisappointed。Beingnowprettywellexhaustedbytheintenseheat，Ithoughtitwisetoreturnandreservefurtherexplorationforthenextday。

WhenIsatdownintheafternoontoarrangemyinsects，thelousewassurroundedbymen，women，andchildren，lostinamazementatmyunaccountableproceedings；andwhen，afterpinningoutthespecimens，Iproceededtowritethenameoftheplaceonsmallcirculartickets，andattachonetoeach，eventheoldKapala，theMahometanpriest，andsomeMalaytraderscouldnotrepresssignsofastonishment。Iftheyhadknownalittlemoreaboutthewaysandopinionsofwhitemen，theywouldprobablyhavelookeduponmeasafooloramadman，butintheirignorancetheyacceptedmyoperationsasworthyofallrespect，althoughutterlybeyondtheircomprehension。