第8章

AfewdaysaftertheearthquakeItookawalktoTondano，alargevillageofabout7，000inhabitants，situatedatthelowerendofthelakeofthesamename。IdinedwiththeControlleur，Mr。

Bensneider，whohadbeenmyguidetoTomohon。Hehadafinelargehouse，inwhichheoftenreceivedvisitors；andhisgardenwasthebestforflowerswhichIhadseeninthetropics，althoughtherewasnogreatvariety。Itwashewhointroducedtherosehedgeswhichgivesuchacharmingappearancetothevillages；andtohimischieflyduethegeneralneatnessandgoodorderthateverywhereprevail。Iconsultedhimaboutafreshlocality，asI

foundRurúkantoomuchintheclouds，dreadfullydampandgloomy，andwithageneralstagnationofbirdandinsectlife。Herecommendedmeavillagesomedistancebeyondthelake，nearwhichwasalargeforest，wherehethoughtIshouldfindplentyofbirds。Ashewasgoinghimselfinafewdays，Idecidedtoaccompanyhim。

AfterdinnerIaskedhimforaguidetothecelebratedwaterfallontheoutletstreamofthelake。Itissituatedaboutamileandhalfbelowthevillage，whereaslightrisinggroundclosesinthebasin，andevidentlyonceformed，theshoreofthelake。Heretheriverentersagorge，verynarrowandtortuous，alongwhichitrushesfuriouslyforashortdistanceandthenplungesintoagreatchasm，formingtheheadofalargevalley。Justabovethefallthechannelisnotmorethantenfeetwide，andhereafewplanksarethrownacross，whence，halfhidbyluxuriantvegetation，themadwatersmaybeseenrushingbeneath，andafewfeetfartherplungeintotheabyss。Bothsightandsoundaregrandandimpressive。Itwasherethat，fouryearsbeforemyvisit，theGovernor-GeneraloftheNetherlandIndiescommittedsuicide，byleapingintothetorrent。Thisatleastisthegeneralopinion，ashesufferedfromapainfuldiseasewhichwassupposedtohavemadehimwearyofhislife。Hisbodywasfoundnextdayinthestreambelow。

Unfortunately，nogoodviewofthefallcouldnowbeobtained，owingtothequantityofwoodandhighgrassthatlinedthemarginsoftheprecipices。Therearetwofalls，thelowerbeingthemostlofty；anditispossible，bylongcircuit，todescendintothevalleyandseethemfrombelow。Werethebestpointsofviewsearchedforandrenderedaccessible，thesefallswouldprobablybefoundtobethefinestintheArchipelago。Thechasmseemstobeofgreatdepth，probably500or600feet。Unfortunately，Ihadnotimetoexplorethisvalley，asIwasanxioustodevoteeveryfinedaytoincreasingmyhithertoscantycollections。

JustoppositemyabodeinRurukanwastheschoolhouse。Theschoolmasterwasanative，educatedbytheMissionaryatTomohón。

Schoolwasheldeverymorningforaboutthreehours，andtwiceaweekintheeveningtherewascatechisingandpreaching。TherewasalsoaserviceonSundaymorning。ThechildrenwerealltaughtinMalay，andIoftenheardthemrepeatingthemultiplication-table，uptotwentytimestwenty，veryglibly。Theyalwayswoundupwithsinging，anditwasverypleasingtohearmanyofouroldpsalm-tunesintheseremotemountains，sungwithMalaywords。SingingisoneoftherealblessingswhichMissionariesintroduceamongsavagenations，whosenativechantsarealmostalwaysmonotonousandmelancholy。

Oncatechisingeveningstheschoolmasterwasagreatman，preachingandteachingforthreehoursatastretchmuchinthestyleofanEnglishranter。Thiswasprettycoldworkforhisauditors，howeverwarmingtohimself；andIaminclinedtothinkthatthesenativeteachers，havingacquiredfacilityofspeakingandanendlesssupplyofreligiousplatitudestotalkabout，ridetheirhobbyratherhard，withoutmuchconsiderationfortheirflock。TheMissionaries，however，havemuchtobeproudofinthiscountry。TheyhaveassistedtheGovernmentinchangingasavageintoacivilizedcommunityinawonderfullyshortspaceoftime。Fortyyearsagothecountrywasawilderness，thepeoplenakedsavages，garnishingtheirrudehouseswithhumanheads。Nowitisagarden，worthyofitssweetnativenameof"Minahasa。"

Goodroadsandpathstraverseitineverydirection；someofthefinestcoffeeplantationsintheworldsurroundthevillages，interspersedwithextensiverice-fieldsmorethansufficientforthesupportofthepopulation。

Thepeoplearenowthemostindustrious，peaceable，andcivilizedinthewholeArchipelago。Theyarethebestclothed，thebesthoused，thebestfed，andthebesteducated；andtheyhavemadesomeprogresstowardsahighersocialstate。Ibelievethereisnoexampleelsewhereofsuchstrikingresultsbeingproducedinsoshortatime——resultswhichareentirelyduetothesystemofgovernmentnowadoptedbytheDutchintheirEasternpossessions。

Thesystemisonewhichmaybecalleda"paternaldespotism。"NowweEnglishmendonotlikedespotism——wehatethenameandthething，andwewouldratherseepeopleignorant，lazy，andvicious，thanuseanybutmoralforcetomakethemwise，industrious，andgood。Andwearerightwhenwearedealingwithmenofourownrace，andofsimilarideasandequalcapacitieswithourselves。Exampleandprecept，theforceofpublicopinion，andtheslow，butsurespreadofeducation，willdoeverythingintime，withoutengenderinganyofthosebitterfeelings，orproducinganyofthatservility，hypocrisy，anddependence，whicharethesureresultsofdespoticgovernment。Butwhatshouldwethinkofamanwhoshouldadvocatetheseprinciplesofperfectfreedominafamilyoraschool？Weshouldsaythathewasapplyingagood，generalprincipletoacaseinwhichtheconditionsrendereditinapplicable——thecaseinwhichthegovernedareinanadmittedstateofmentalinferioritytothosewhogovernthem，andareunabletodecidewhatisbestfortheirpermanentwelfare。Childrenmustbesubjectedtosomedegreeofauthority，andguidance；andifproperlymanagedtheywillcheerfullysubmittoit，becausetheyknowtheirowninferiority，andbelievetheireldersareactingsolelyfortheirgood。Theylearnmanythingstheuseofwhichtheycannotcomprehend，andwhichtheywouldneverlearnwithoutsomemoralandsocial，ifnotphysical，pressure。Habitsoforder，ofindustry，ofcleanliness，ofrespectandobedience，areinculcatedbysimilarmeans。

Childrenwouldnevergrowupintowell-behavedandwell-educatedmen，ifthesameabsolutefreedomofactionthatisallowedtomenwereallowedtothem。Ruderthebestaspectofeducation，childrenaresubjectedtoamilddespotismforthegoodofthemselvesandofsociety；andtheirconfidenceinthewisdomandgoodnessofthosewhoordainandapplythisdespotism，neutralizesthebadpassionsanddegradingfeelings，whichunderlessfavourableconditionsareitsgeneralresults。

Now，thereisnotmerelyananalogy——thereisinmanyrespectsanidentityofrelationbetweenmasterandpupilorparentandchildontheonehand，andanuncivilizedraceanditscivilizedrulersontheother。Weknow(orthinkweknow)thattheeducationandindustry，andthecommonusagesofcivilizedman，aresuperiortothoseofsavagelife；and，ashebecomesacquaintedwiththem，thesavagehimselfadmitsthis。Headmiresthesuperioracquirementsofthecivilizedman，anditiswithpridethathewilladoptsuchusagesasdonotinterferetoomuchwithhissloth，hispassions，orhisprejudices。Butasthewillfulchildortheidleschoolboy，whowasnevertaughtobedience，andnevermadetodoanythingwhichofhisownfreewillhewasnotinclinedtodo，wouldinmostcasesobtainneithereducationnormanners；soitismuchmoreunlikelythatthesavage，withalltheconfirmedhabitsofmanhoodandthetraditionalprejudicesofrace，shouldeverdomorethancopyafewoftheleastbeneficialcustomsofcivilization，withoutsomestrongerstimulusthanprecept，veryimperfectlybackedbyexample。

Ifwearesatisfiedthatwearerightinassumingthegovernmentoverasavagerace，andoccupyingtheircountry，andifwefurtherconsideritourdutytodowhatwecantoimproveourrudesubjectsandraisethemuptowardsourownlevel，wemustnotbetoomuchafraidofthecryof"despotism"and"slavery，"

butmustusetheauthoritywepossesstoinducethemtodoworkwhichtheymaynotaltogetherlike，butwhichweknowtobeanindispensablestepintheirmoralandphysicaladvancement。TheDutchhaveshownmuchgoodpolicyinthemeansbywhichtheyhavedonethis。Theyhaveinmostcasesupheldandstrengthenedtheauthorityofthenativechiefs，towhomthepeoplehavebeenaccustomedtorenderavoluntaryobedience；andbyactingontheintelligenceandself-interestofthesechiefs，havebroughtaboutchangesinthemannersandcustomsofthepeople，whichwouldhaveexcitedill-feelingandperhapsrevolt，hadtheybeendirectlyenforcedbyforeigners。

Incarryingoutsuchasystem，muchdependsuponthecharacterofthepeople；andthesystemwhichsucceedsadmirablyinoneplacecouldonlybeverypartiallyworkedoutinanother。InMinahasathenaturaldocilityandintelligenceoftheracehavemadetheirprogressrapid；andhowimportantthisis，iswellillustratedbythefact，thatintheimmediatevicinityofthetownofMenadoareatribecalledBanteks，ofamuchlesstractabledisposition，whohavehithertoresistedalleffortsoftheDutchGovernmenttoinducethemtoadoptanysystematiccultivation。Theseremaininarudercondition，butengagethemselveswillinglyasoccasionalportersandlabourers，forwhichtheirgreaterstrengthandactivitywelladaptthem。

Nodoubtthesystemheresketchedseemsopentoseriousobjection。Itistoacertainextentdespotic，andinterfereswithfreetrade，freelabour，andfreecommunication。Anativecannotleavehisvillagewithoutapass，andcannotengagehimselftoanymerchantorcaptainwithoutaGovernmentpermit。

ThecoffeehasalltobesoldtoGovernment，atlessthanhalfthepricethatthelocalmerchantwouldgiveforit，andheconsequentlycriesoutloudlyagainst"monopoly"and"oppression。"

Heforgets，however，thatthecoffeeplantationswereestablishedbytheGovernmentatgreatoutlayofcapitalandskill；thatitgivesfreeeducationtothepeople，andthatthemonopolyisinlieuoftaxation。Heforgetsthattheproducthewantstopurchaseandmakeaprofitby，isthecreationoftheGovernment，withoutwhomthepeoplewouldstillbesavages。Heknowsverywellthatfreetradewould，asitsfirstresult，leadtotheimportationofwholecargoesofarrack，whichwouldbecarriedoverthecountryandexchangedforcoffee。Thatdrunkennessandpovertywouldspreadovertheland；thatthepubliccoffeeplantationswouldnotbekeptup；

thatthequalityandquantityofthecoffeewouldsoondeteriorate；

thattradersandmerchantswouldgetrich，butthatthepeoplewouldrelapseintopovertyandbarbarism。Thatsuchisinvariablyistheresultoffreetradewithanysavagetribeswhopossessavaluableproduct，nativeorcultivated，iswellknowntothosewhohavevisitedsuchpeople；butwemightevenanticipatefromgeneralprinciplesthatevilresultswouldhappen。

Ifthereisonethingratherthananothertowhichthegrandlawofcontinuityordevelopmentwillapply，itistohumanprogress。

Therearecertainstagesthroughwhichsocietymustpassinitsonwardmarchfrombarbarismtocivilization。Nowoneofthesestageshasalwaysbeensomeformorotherofdespotism，suchasfeudalismorservitude，oradespoticpaternalgovernment；andwehaveeveryreasontobelievethatitisnotpossibleforhumanitytoleapoverthistransitionepoch，andpassatoncefrompuresavagerytofreecivilization。TheDutchsystemattemptstosupplythismissinglink，andtobringthepeopleonbygradualstepstothathighercivilization，whichwe(theEnglish)trytoforceuponthematonce。Oursystemhasalwaysfailed。Wedemoralizeandweextirpate，butweneverreallycivilize。WhethertheDutchsystemcanpermanentlysucceedisbutdoubtful，sinceitmaynotbepossibletocompresstheworkoftencenturiesintoone；butatalleventsittakesnatureasaguide，andistherefore，moredeservingofsuccess，andmorelikelytosucceed，thanours。

ThereisonepointconnectedwiththisquestionwhichIthinktheMissionariesmighttakeupwithgreatphysicalandmoralresults。

Inthisbeautifulandhealthycountry，andwithabundanceoffoodandnecessaries，thepopulationdoesnotincreaseasitoughttodo。Icanonlyimputethistoonecause。Infantmortality，producedbyneglectwhilethemothersareworkingintheplantations，andbygeneralignoranceoftheconditionsofhealthininfants。Womenallwork，astheyhavealwaysbeenaccustomedtodo。Itisnohardshiptothem，butIbelieveisoftenapleasureandrelaxation。Theyeithertaketheirinfantswiththem，inwhichcasetheyleavetheminsomeshadyspotontheground，goingatintervalstogivethemnourishment，ortheyleavethemathomeinthecareofotherchildrentooyoungtowork。Underneitherofthesecircumstancescaninfantsbeproperlyattendedto，andgreatmortalityistheresult，keepingtheincreaseofpopulationfarbelowtheratewhichthegeneralprosperityofthecountryandtheuniversalityofmarriagewouldleadustoexpect。ThisisamatterinwhichtheGovernmentisdirectlyinterested，sinceitisbytheincreaseofthepopulationalonethattherecanbeanylargeandpermanentincreaseintheproductionofcoffee。TheMissionariesshouldtakeupthequestionbecause，byinducingmarriedwomentoconfinethemselvestodomesticduties，theywilldecidedlypromoteahighercivilization，anddirectlyincreasethehealthandhappinessofthewholecommunity。ThepeoplearesodocileandsowillingtoadoptthemannersandcustomsofEuropeans，thatthechangemightbeeasilyeffectedbymerelyshowingthemthatitwasaquestionofmoralityandcivilization，andanessentialstepintheirprogresstowardsanequalitywiththeirwhiterulers。

Afterafortnight\'sstayatRurúkan，Ileftthatprettyandinterestingvillageinsearchofalocalityandclimatemoreproductiveofbirdsandinsects。IpassedtheeveningwiththeControlleurofTondano，andthenextmorningatnine，leftinasmallboatfortheheadofthelake，adistanceofabouttenmiles。Thelowerendofthelakeisborderedbyswampsandmarshesofconsiderableextent，butalittlefurtheron，thehillscomedowntothewater\'sedgeandgiveitverymuchtheappearanceofagreetriver，thewidthbeingabouttwomiles。

AttheupperendisthevillageofKakas，whereIdinedwiththeheadmaninagoodhouselikethoseIhavealreadydescribed；

andthenwentontoLangówan，fourmilesdistantoveralevelplain。ThiswastheplacewhereIhadbeenrecommendedtostay，andIaccordinglyunpackedmybaggageandmademyselfcomfortableinthelargehousedevotedtovisitors。Iobtainedamantoshootforme，andanothertoaccompanymethenextdaytotheforest，whereIwasinhopesoffindingagoodcollectingground。

InthemorningafterbreakfastIstartedoff，butfoundIhadfourmilestowalkoverawearisomestraightroadthroughcoffeeplantationsbeforeIcouldgettotheforest，andassoonasI

didso，itcameontorainheavilyanddidnotceaseuntilnight。

Thisdistancetowalkeverydaywastoofarforanyprofitablework，especiallywhentheweatherwassouncertain。IthereforedecidedatoncethatImustgofurtheron，untilIfoundsomeplaceclosetoorinaforestcountry。IntheafternoonmyfriendMr。Bensneiderarrived，togetherwiththeControlleurofthenextdistrict，calledBelang，fromwhomIlearnedthatsixmilesfurtherontherewasavillagecalledPanghu，whichhadbeenrecentlyformedandhadagooddealofforestclosetoit；andhepromisedmetheuseofasmallhouseifIlikedtogothere。

ThenextmorningIwenttoseethehot-springsandmudvolcanoes，forwhichthisplaceiscelebrated。Apicturesquepathamongplantationsandravinesbroughtustoabeautifulcircularbasinaboutfortyfeetindiameter，borderedbyacalcareousledge，souniformandtrulycurved，thatitlookedlikeaworkofart。Itwasfilledwithclearwaterveryneartheboilingpoint，andemittedcloudsofsteamwithastrongsulphureousodour。Itoverflowsatonepointandformsalittlestreamofhotwater，whichatahundredyards\'distanceisstilltoohottoholdthehandin。Alittlefurtheron，inapieceofroughwood，weretwootherspringsnotsoregularinoutline，butappearingtobemuchhotter，astheywereinacontinualstateofactiveebullition。

Atintervalsofafewminutes，agreatescapeofsteamorgastookplace，throwingupacolumnofwaterthreeorfourfeethigh。

Wethenwenttothemud-springs，whichareaboutamileoff，andarestillmorecurious。Onaslopingtractofgroundinaslighthollowisasmalllakeofliquidmud，withpatchesofblue，red，orwhite，andinmanyplacesboilingandbubblingmostfuriously。

Allaroundontheinduratedclayaresmallwellsandcratersfullofboilingmud。Theseseemtobeformingcontinually，asmallholeappearingfirst，whichemitsjetsofsteamandboilingmud，whichuponhardening，formsalittleconewithacraterinthemiddle。Thegroundforsomedistanceisveryunsafe，asitisevidentlyliquidatasmalldepth，andbendswithpressurelikethinice。Atoneofthesmaller，marginaljetswhichI

managedtoapproach，Iheldmyhandtoseeifitwasreallyashotasitlooked，whenalittledropofmudthatspurtedontomyfingerscaldedlikeboilingwater。

Ashortdistanceoff，therewasaflatbaresurfaceofrockassmoothandhotasanovenfloor，whichwasevidentlyanoldmud-pool，driedupandhardened。Forhundredsofyardsaroundwheretherewerebanksofreddishandwhiteclayusedforwhitewash，itwasstillsohotclosetothesurfacethatthehandcouldhardlybeartobeheldincracksafewinchesdeep，andfromwhicharoseastrongsulphureousvapour。IwasinformedthatsomeyearsbackaFrenchgentlemanwhovisitedthesespringsventuredtooneartheliquidmud，whenthecrustgavewayandhewasengulfedinthehorriblecaldron。

Thisevidenceofintenseheatsonearthesurfaceoveralargetractofcountrywasveryimpressive，andIcouldhardlydivestmyselfofthenotionthatsometerriblecatastrophemightatanymomentdevastatethecountry。Yetitisprobablethatalltheseaperturesarereallysafety-valves，andthattheinequalitiesoftheresistanceofvariouspartsoftheearth\'scrustwillalwayspreventsuchanaccumulationofforceaswouldberequiredtoupheaveandoverwhelmanyextensivearea。Aboutsevenmileswestofthisisavolcanowhichwasineruptionaboutthirtyyearsbeforemyvisit，presentingamagnificentappearanceandcoveringthesurroundingcountrywithshowersofashes。Theplainsaroundthelakeformedbytheinterminglinganddecompositionofvolcanicproductsareofamazingfertility，andwithalittlemanagementintherotationofcropsmightbekeptincontinualcultivation。Riceisnowgrownonthemforthreeorfouryearsinsuccession，whentheyareleftfallowforthesameperiod，afterwhichriceormaizecanbeagaingrown。Goodriceproducesthirty-fold，andcoffeetreescontinuebearingabundantlyfortenorfifteenyears，withoutanymanureandwithscarcelyanycultivation。

Iwasdelayedadaybyincessantrain，andthenproceededtoPanghu，whichIreachedjustbeforethedailyrainbeganat11

A。M。Afterleavingthesummitlevelofthelakebasin，theroadiscarriedalongtheslopeofafineforestravine。Thedescentisalongone，sothatIestimatedthevillagetobenotmorethan1，500feetabovethesea，yetIfoundthemorningtemperatureoften69°，thesameasatTondanoatleast600or700

feethigher。Iwaspleasedwiththeappearanceoftheplace，whichhadagooddealofforestandwildcountryaroundit；andfoundpreparedformealittlehouseconsistingonlyofaverandahandabackroom。Thiswasonlyintendedforvisitorstorestin，ortopassanight，butitsuitedmeverywell。Iwassounfortunate，however，astolosebothmyhuntersjustatthistime。OnehadbeenleftatTondanowithfeveranddiarrhoea，andtheotherwasattackedatLangówanwithinflammationofthechest，andashiscaselookedratherbadIhadhimsentbacktoMenado。Thepeopleherewereallsobusywiththeirrice-harvest，whichwasimportantforthemtofinishowingtotheearlyrains，thatIcouldgetnoonetoshootforme。

DuringthethreeweeksthatIstayedatPanghuitrainednearlyeveryday，eitherintheafternoononly，oralldaylong；butthereweregenerallyafewhours\'sunshineinthemorning，andI

tookadvantageofthesetoexploretheroadsandpaths，therocksandravines，insearchofinsects。Thesewerenotveryabundant，yetIsawenoughtoconvincemethatthelocalitywasagoodone，hadIbeenthereatthebeginninginsteadofattheendofthedryseason。ThenativesbroughtmedailyafewinsectsobtainedattheSagueirpalms，includingsomefineCetoniasandstag-

beetles。Twolittleboyswereveryexpertwiththeblowpipe，andbroughtmeagoodmanysmallbirds，whichtheyshotwithpelletsofclay。Amongthesewasaprettylittleflower-peckerofanewspecies(Prionochilusaureolimbatus)，andseveraloftheloveliesthoneysuckersIhadyetseen。Mygeneralcollectionofbirdswas，however，almostatastandstill；forthoughIatlengthobtainedamantoshootforme，hewasnotgoodformuch，andseldombroughtmemorethanonebirdaday。Thebestthingheshotwasthelargeandrarefruit-pigeonpeculiartoNorthernCelebes(Carpophagaforsteni)，whichIhadlongbeenseeking。

Iwasmyselfverysuccessfulinonebeautifulgroupofinsects，thetiger-beetles，whichseemmoreabundantandvariedherethananywhereelseintheArchipelago。Ifirstmetwiththemonacuttingintheroad，whereahardclayeybankwaspartiallyovergrownwithmossesandsmallferns。Here，Ifoundrunningabout，asmallolive-greenspecieswhichnevertookflight；andmorerarely，afinepurplishblackwinglessinsect，whichwasalwaysfoundmotionlessincrevices，andwastherefore，probablynocturnal。Itappearedtometoformanewgenus。Abouttheroadsintheforest，IfoundthelargeandhandsomeCicindelaheros，whichIhadbeforeobtainedsparinglyatMacassar；butitwasinthemountaintorrentoftheravineitselfthatIgotmyfinestthings。0ndeadtrunksoverhangingthewaterandonthebanksandfoliage，IobtainedthreeveryprettyspeciesofCicindela，quitedistinctinsize，form，andcolour，buthavinganalmostidenticalpatternofpalespots。Ialsofoundasinglespecimenofamostcuriousspecieswithverylongantennae。ButmyfinestdiscoveryherewastheCicindelagloriosa，whichIfoundonmossystonesjustrisingabovethewater。Afterobtainingmyfirstspecimenofthiselegantinsect，Iusedtowalkupthestream，watchingcarefullyeverymoss-coveredrockandstone。Itwasrathershy，andwouldoftenleadmeonalongchasefromstonetostone，becominginvisibleeverytimeitsettledonthedampmoss，owingtoitsrichvelvetygreencolour。OnsomedaysIcouldonlycatchafewglimpsesofit；onothersIgotasinglespecimen；andonafewoccasionstwo，butneverwithoutamoreorlessactivepursuit。ThisandseveralotherspeciesIneversawbutinthisoneravine。

AmongthepeoplehereIsawspecimensofseveraltypes，which，withthepeculiaritiesofthelanguages，givesmesomenotionoftheirprobableorigin。Astrikingillustrationofthelowstateofcivilizationofthesepeople，untilquiterecently，istobefoundinthegreatdiversityoftheirlanguages。Villagesthreeorfourmilesaparthaveseparatedialects，andeachgroupofthreeorfoursuchvillageshasadistinctlanguagequiteunintelligibletoalltherest；sothat，untiltherecentintroductionofMalaybytheMissionaries，theremusthavebeenabartoallfreecommunication。Theselanguagesoffermanypeculiarities。TheycontainaCelebes-MalayelementandaPapuanelement，alongwithsomeradicalpeculiaritiesfoundalsointhelanguagesoftheSiauandSanguirislandsfurthernorth，andtherefore，probablyderivedfromthePhilippineIslands。Physicalcharacteristicscorrespond。Therearesomeofthelesscivilizedtribeswhichhavesemi-Papuanfeaturesandhair，whileinsomevillagesthetrueCelebesorBugisphysiognomyprevails。TheplateauofTondanoischieflyinhabitedbypeoplenearlyaswhiteastheChinese，andwithverypleasingsemi-Europeanfeatures。

ThepeopleofSiauandSanguirmuchresemblethese，andIbelievethemtobeperhapsimmigrantsfromsomeoftheislandsofNorthPolynesia。ThePapuantypewillrepresenttheremnantoftheaborigines，whilethoseoftheBugischaractershowtheextensionnorthwardofthesuperiorMalayraces。

AsIwaswastingvaluabletimeatPanghu，owingtothebadweatherandtheillnessofmyhunters，IreturnedtoMenadoafterastayofthreeweeks。HereIhadalittletouchoffever，andwhatwithdryingandpackingallofmycollectionsandgettingfreshservants，itwasafortnightbeforeIwasagainreadytostart。I

nowwenteastwardoveranundulatingcountryskirtingthegreatvolcanoofKlabat，toavillagecalledLempias，situatedclosetotheextensiveforestthatcoversthelowerslopesofthatmountain。Mybaggagewascarriedfromvillagetovillagebyrelaysofmen；andaseachchangeinvolvedsomedelay，Ididnotreachmydestination(adistanceofeighteenmiles)untilsunset。

Iwaswetthrough，andhadtowaitforanhourinanuncomfortablestateuntilthefirstinstallmentofmybaggagearrived，whichluckilycontainedmyclothes，whiletherestdidnotcomeinuntilmidnight。

ThisbeingthedistrictinhabitedbythatsingularannualtheBabirusa(Hog-deer)，Iinquiredaboutskullsandsoonobtainedseveralintolerablecondition，aswellasafineoneoftherareandcurious"Sapiutan"(Anoadepressicornis。OfthisanimalIhadseentwolivingspecimensatMenado，andwassurprisedattheirgreatresemblancetosmallcattle，orstillmoretotheElandofSouthAfrica。TheirMalaynamesignifies"forestox，"andtheydifferfromverysmallhighbredoxenprincipallybythelow-

hangingdewlap，andstraight，pointedhornswhichslopebackovertheneck。IdidnotfindtheforestheresorichininsectsasI

hadexpected，andmyhuntersgotmeveryfewbirds，butwhattheydidobtainwereveryinteresting。AmongtheseweretherareforestKingfisher(Citturacyanotis)，asmallnewspeciesofMegapodius，andonespecimenofthelargeandinterestingMaleo(Megacephalonrubripes)，toobtainwhichwasoneofmychiefreasonsforvisitingthisdistrict。Gettingnomore，however，aftertendays\'search，IremovedtoLicoupang，attheextremityofthepeninsula，aplacecelebratedforthesebirds，aswellasfortheBabirusaandSapiutan。IfoundhereMr。Goldmann，theeldestsonoftheGovernoroftheMoluccas，whowassuperintendingtheestablishmentofsomeGovernmentsalt-works。

Thiswasabetterlocality，andIobtainedsomefinebutterfliesandverygoodbirds，amongwhichwasonemorespecimenoftheraregrounddove(Phlegaenastristigmata)，whichIhadfirstobtainedneartheMaroswaterfallinSouthCelebes。

HearingwhatIwasparticularlyinsearchof，Mr。Goldmannkindlyofferedtomakeahunting-partytotheplacewherethe"Maleos"

aremostabundant，aremoteanduninhabitedsea-beachabouttwentymilesdistant。Theclimateherewasquitedifferentfromthatonthemountains；notadropofrainhavingfallenforfourmonths；soImadearrangementstostayonthebeachaweek，inordertosecureagoodnumberofspecimens。Wewentpartlybyboatandpartlythroughtheforest，accompaniedbytheMajororhead-manofLicoupang，withadozennativesandabouttwentydogs。OnthewaytheycaughtayoungSapi-utanandfivewildpigs。OftheformerIpreservedthehead。ThisanimalisentirelyconfinedtotheremotemountainforestsofCelebesandoneortwoadjacentislandswhichformpartofthesamegroup。Intheadultstheheadisblack，withawhitemarkovereacheye，oneoneachcheekandanotheronthethroat。Thehornsareverysmoothandsharpwhenyoung，butbecomethickerandridgedatthebottomwithage。Mostnaturalistsconsiderthiscuriousanimaltobeasmallox，butfromthecharacterofthehorns，thefinecoatofhairandthedescendingdewlap，itseemedcloselytoapproachtheantelopes。

Arrivedatourdestination，webuiltabutandpreparedforastayofsomedays——Itoshootandskin"Maleos"，andMr。GoldmannandtheMajortohuntwildpigs，Babirusa，andSapi-utan。TheplaceissituatedinthelargebaybetweentheislandsofLimbeandBanca，andconsistsofsteepbeachmorethanamileinlength，ofdeeplooseandcoarseblackvolcanicsand(orrathergravel)，veryfatiguingtowalkover。Itisboundedateachextremitybyasmallriverwithhillygroundbeyond，whiletheforestbehindthebeachitselfistolerablylevelanditsgrowthstunted。WeprobablyhavehereanancientlavastreamfromtheKlabatvolcano，whichhasfloweddownavalleyintothesea，andthedecompositionofwhichhasformedthelooseblacksand。Inconfirmationofthisview，itmaybementionedthatthebeachesbeyondthesmallriversinbothdirectionsareofwhitesand。

Itisinthisloose，hot，blacksandthatthosesingularbirds，the"Maleos"deposittheireggs。InthemonthsofAugustandSeptember，whenthereislittleornorain，theycomedowninpairsfromtheinteriortothisortooneortwootherfavouritespots，andscratchholesthreeorfourfeetdeep，justabovehigh-watermark，wherethefemaledepositsasinglelargeegg，whichshecoversoverwithaboutafootofsand——andthenreturnstotheforest。Attheendoftenortwelvedaysshecomesagaintothesamespottolayanotheregg，andeachfemalebirdissupposedtolaysixoreighteggsduringtheseason。Themaleassiststhefemaleinmakingthehole，comingdownandreturningwithher。Theappearanceofthebirdwhenwalkingonthebeachisveryhandsome。Theglossyblackandrosywhiteoftheplumage，thehelmetedheadandelevatedtail，likethatofthecommonfowl，giveastrikingcharacter，whichtheirstatelyandsomewhatsedatewalkrendersstillmoreremarkable。Thereishardlyanydifferencebetweenthesexes，exceptthatthecasqueorbonnetatthebackoftheheadandthetuberclesatthenostrilsarealittlelarger，andthebeautifulrosysalmoncolouralittledeeperinthemalebird；butthedifferenceissoslightthatitisnotalwayspossibletotellamalefromafemalewithoutdissection。Theyrunquickly，butwhenshotatorsuddenlydisturbed，takewingwithaheavynoisyflighttosomeneighbouringtree，wheretheysettleonalowbranch；and，theyprobablyroostatnightinasimilarsituation。Manybirdslayinthesamehole，foradozeneggsareoftenfoundtogether；andthesearesolargethatitisnotpossibleforthebodyofthebirdtocontainmorethanonefully-developedeggatthesametime。InallthefemalebirdswhichIshot，noneoftheeggsbesidestheonelargeoneexceededthesizeofpeas，andtherewereonlyeightornineofthese，whichisprobablytheextremenumberabirdcanlayinoneseason。

Everyyearthenativescomeforfiftymilesroundtoobtaintheseeggs，whichareesteemedasagreatdelicacy，andwhenquitefresh，areindeeddelicious。Theyarericherthanhens\'eggsandofafinerfavour，andeachonecompletelyfillsanordinaryteacup，andformswithbreadorriceaverygoodmeal。Thecolouroftheshellisapalebrickred，orveryrarelypurewhite。Theyareelongateandveryslightlysmalleratoneend，fromfourtofourandahalfincheslongbytwoandaquarterortwoandahalfwide。

Aftertheeggsaredepositedinthesand，theyarenofurthercaredforbythemother。Theyoungbirds，uponbreakingtheshell，worktheirwayupthroughthesandandrunoffatoncetotheforest；andIwasassuredbyMr。DuivenbodenofTernate，thattheycanflytheverydaytheyarehatched。Hehadtakensomeeggsonboardhisschoonerwhichhatchedduringthenight，andinthemorningthelittlebirdsflewreadilyacrossthecabin。

Consideringthegreatdistancesthebirdscometodeposittheeggsinapropersituation(oftentenorfifteenmiles)itseemsextraordinarythattheyshouldtakenofurthercareofthem。Itis，however，quitecertainthattheyneitherdonorcanwatchthem。Theeggsbeingdepositedbyanumberofhensinsuccessioninthesamehole，wouldrenderitimpossibleforeachtodistinguishitsown；andthefoodnecessaryforsuchlargebirds(consistingentirelyoffallenfruits)canonlybeobtainedbyroamingoveranextensivedistrict，sothatifthenumbersofbirdswhichcomedowntothissinglebeachinthebreedingseason，amountingtomanyhundreds，wereobligedtoremaininthevicinity，manywouldperishofhunger。

Inthestructureofthefeetofthisbird，wemaydetectacauseforitsdepartingfromthehabitsofitsnearestallies，theMegapodiiandTalegalli，whichheapupearth，leaves，stones，andsticksintoahugemound，inwhichtheyburytheireggs。ThefeetoftheMaleoarenotnearlysolargeorstronginproportionasinthesebirds，whileitsclawsareshortandstraightinsteadofbeinglongandmuchcurved。Thetoesare，however，stronglywebbedatthebase，formingabroadpowerfulfoot，which，withtheratherlongleg，iswelladaptedtoscratchawaytheloosesand(whichfliesupinaperfectshowerwhenthebirdsareatwork)，butwhichcouldnotwithoutmuchlabouraccumulatetheheapsofmiscellaneousrubbish，whichthelargegraspingfeetoftheMegapodiusbringtogetherwithease。

Wemayalso，Ithink，seeinthepeculiarorganizationoftheentirefamilyoftheMegapodidaeorBrushTurkeys，areasonwhytheydepartsowidelyfromtheusualhabitsoftheClassofbirds。Eacheggbeingsolargeasentirelytofilluptheabdominalcavityandwithdifficultypassthewallsofthepelvis，aconsiderableintervalisrequiredbeforethesuccessiveeggscanbematured(thenativessayaboutthirteendays)。Eachbirdlayssixoreighteggsorevenmoreeachseason，sothatbetweenthefirstandlasttheremaybeanintervaloftwoorthreemonths。Now，iftheseeggswerehatchedintheordinaryway，eithertheparentsmustkeepsittingcontinuallyforthislongperiod，oriftheyonlybegantositafterthelasteggwasdeposited，thefirstwouldbeexposedtoinjurybytheclimate，ortodestructionbythelargelizards，snakes，orotheranimalswhichaboundinthedistrict；becausesuchlargebirdsmustroamaboutagooddealinsearchoffood。Herethenweseemtohaveacaseinwhichthehabitsofabirdmaybedirectlytracedtoitsexceptionalorganization；foritwillhardlybemaintainedthatthisabnormalstructureandpeculiarfoodweregiventotheMegapodidaeinorderthattheymightnotexhibitthatparentalaffection，orpossessthosedomesticinstinctssogeneralintheClassofbirds，andwhichsomuchexciteouradmiration。

IthasgenerallybeenthecustomofwritersonNaturalHistorytotakethehabitsandinstinctsofanimalsasfixedpoints，andtoconsidertheirstructureandorganization，asspeciallyadapted，tobeinaccordancewiththese。Thisassumptionishoweveranarbitraryone，andhasthebadeffectofstiflinginquiryintothenatureandcausesof"instinctsandhabits，"treatingthemasdirectlyduetoa"firstcause，"andtherefore，incomprehensibletous。Ibelievethatacarefulconsiderationofthestructureofaspecies，andofthepeculiarphysicalandorganicconditionsbywhichitissurrounded，orhasbeensurroundedinpastages，willoften，asinthiscase，throwmuchlightontheoriginofitshabitsandinstincts。Theseagain，combinedwithchangesinexternalconditions，reactuponstructure，andbymeansof"variation"and"naturalselection"，botharekeptinharmony。

Myfriendsremainedthreedays，andgotplentyofwildpigsandtwoAnoas，butthelatterweremuchinjuredbythedogs，andI

couldonlypreservetheheads。Agrandhuntwhichweattemptedonthethirddayfailed，owingtobadmanagementindrivinginthegame，andwewaitedforfivehoursperchedonplatformsintreeswithoutgettingashot，althoughwehadbeenassuredthatpigs，Babirusas，andAnóaswouldrushpastusindozens。Imyself，withtwomen，stayedthreedayslongertogetmorespecimensoftheMaleos，andsucceededinpreservingtwenty-sixveryfineones——

thefleshandeggsofwhichsupplieduswithabundanceofgoodfood。

TheMajorsentaboat，ashehadpromised，totakehomemybaggage，whileIwalkedthroughtheforestwithmytwoboysandaguide，aboutfourteenmiles。Forthefirsthalfofthedistancetherewasnopath，andwehadoftentocutourwaythroughtangledrattansorthicketsofbamboo。Insomeofourturningstofindthemostpracticableroute，Iexpressedmyfearthatwewerelosingourway，asthesunbeingvertical，Icouldseenopossiblecluetotherightdirection。Myconductors，however，laughedattheidea，whichtheyseemedtoconsiderquiteludicrous；andsureenough，abouthalfway，wesuddenlyencounteredalittlehutwherepeoplefromLicoupangcametohuntandsmokewildpigs。Myguidetoldmehehadneverbeforetraversedtheforestbetweenthesetwopoints；andthisiswhatisconsideredbysometravellersasoneofthesavage"instincts，"whereasitismerelytheresultofwidegeneralknowledge。Themanknewthetopographyofthewholedistrict；theslopeoftheland，thedirectionofthestreams，thebeltsofbambooorrattan，andmanyotherindicationsoflocalityanddirection；andhewasthusenabledtohitstraightuponthehut，inthevicinityofwhichhehadoftenhunted。Inaforestofwhichheknewnothing，hewouldbequiteasmuchatalossasaEuropean。Thusitis，Iamconvinced，withallthewonderfulaccountsofIndiansfindingtheirwaythroughtracklessforeststodefinitepoints；theymayneverhavepassedstraightbetweenthetwoparticularpointsbefore，buttheyarewellacquaintedwiththevicinityofboth，andhavesuchageneralknowledgeofthewholecountry，itswatersystem，itssoilanditsvegetation，thatastheyapproachthepointtheyaretoreach，manyeasily-recognisedindicationsenablethemtohituponitwithcertainty。

Thechieffeatureofthisforestwastheabundanceofrattanpalmshangingfromthetrees，andturningandtwistingaboutontheground，oftenininextricableconfusion。Onewondersatfirsthowtheycangetintosuchqueershapes；butitisevidentlycausedbythedecayandfallofthetreesupwhichtheyhavefirstclimbed，afterwhichtheygrowalongthegrounduntiltheymeetwithanothertrunkupwhichtoascend。Atangledmassoftwistedlivingrattan，istherefore，asignthatatsomeformerperiodalargetreehasfallenthere，thoughtheremaybenottheslightestvestigeofitleft。Therattanseemstohaveunlimitedpowersofgrowth，andasingleplantmaymoultupseveraltreesinsuccession，andthusreachtheenormouslengththeyaresaidsometimestoattain。Theymuchimprovetheappearanceofaforestasseenfromthecoast；fortheyvarytheotherwisemonotonoustree-topswithfeatherycrownsofleavesrisingclearabovethem，andeachterminatedbyanerectleafyspikelikealightning-

conductor。

Theothermostinterestingobjectintheforestwasabeautifulpalm，whoseperfectlysmoothandcylindricalstemriseserecttomorethanahundredfeethigh，withathicknessofonlyeightorteninches；whilethefan-shapedleaveswhichcomposeitscrown，arealmostcompletecirclesofsixoreightfeetdiameter，bornealoftonlongandslenderpetioles，andbeautifullytoothedroundtheedgebytheextremitiesoftheleaflets，whichareseparatedonlyforafewinchesfromthecircumference。ItisprobablytheLivistonarotundifoliaofbotanists，andisthemostcompleteandbeautifulfan-leafIhaveeverseen，servingadmirablyforfoldingintowater-bucketsandimpromptubaskets，aswellasforthatchingandotherpurposes。

AfewdaysafterwardsIreturnedtoMenadoonhorse-back，sendingmybaggagearoundbysea；andhadjusttimetopackupallmycollectionstogobythenextmailsteamertoAmboyna。IwillnowdevoteafewpagestoanaccountofthechiefpeculiaritiesoftheZoologyofCelebes，anditsrelationtothatofthesurroundingcountries。

CHAPTERXVIII。

NATURALHISTORYOFCELEBES。

THEpositionofCelebesisthemostcentralintheArchipelago。

ImmediatelytothenortharethePhilippineislands；onthewestisBorneo；ontheeastaretheMoluccaislands；andonthesouthistheTimorgroup——anditisonallsidessoconnectedwiththeseislandsbyitsownsatellites，bysmallislets，andbycoralreefs，thatneitherbyinspectiononthemapnorbyactualobservationarounditscoast，isitpossibletodetermineaccuratelywhichshouldbegroupedwithit，andwhichwiththesurroundingdistricts。Suchbeingthecase，weshouldnaturallyexpecttofindthattheproductionsofthiscentralislandinsomedegreerepresentedtherichnessandvarietyofthewholeArchipelago，whileweshouldnotexpectmuchindividualityinacountry，sosituated，thatitwouldseemasifitwerepre-

eminentlyfittedtoreceivestragglersandimmigrantsfromallaround。

Assooftenhappensinnature，however，thefactturnsouttobejustthereverseofwhatweshouldhaveexpected；andanexaminationofitsanimalproductionsshowsCelebestobeatoncethepoorestinthenumberofitsspecies，andthemostisolatedinthecharacterofitsproductions，ofallthegreatislandsintheArchipelago。WithitsattendantisletsitspreadsoveranextentofseahardlyinferiorinlengthandbreadthtothatoccupiedbyBorneo，whileitsactuallandareaisnearlydoublethatofJava；yetitsMammaliaandterrestrialbirdsnumberscarcelymorethanhalfthespeciesfoundinthelast-

namedisland。ItspositionissuchthatitcouldreceiveimmigrantsfromeverysidemorereadilythanJava，yetinproportiontothespecieswhichinhabitit，farfewerseemderivedfromotherislands，whilefarmorearealtogetherpeculiartoit；

andaconsiderablenumberofitsanimalformsaresoremarkable，astofindnoclosealliesinanyotherpartoftheworld。InowproposetoexaminethebestknowngroupsofCelebesiananimalsinsomedetail，tostudytheirrelationstothoseofotherislands，andtocallattentiontothemanypointsofinterestwhichtheysuggest。

WeknowfarmoreofthebirdsofCelebesthanwedoofanyothergroupofanimals。Nolessthan191specieshavebeendiscovered，andthoughnodoubt，manymorewadingandswimmingbirdshavetobeadded；yetthelistoflandbirds，144innumber，andwhichforourpresentpurposearemuchthemostimportant，mustbeverynearlycomplete。ImyselfassiduouslycollectedbirdsinCelebesfornearlytenmonths，andmyassistant，Mr。Allen，spenttwomonthsintheSulaislands。TheDutchnaturalistForstenspenttwoyearsinNorthernCelebes(twentyyearsbeforemyvisit)，andcollectionsofbirdshadalsobeensenttoHollandfromMacassar。

TheFrenchshipofdiscovery，L\'Astrolabe，alsotouchedatMenadoandprocuredcollections。Sincemyreturnhome，theDutchnaturalistsRosenbergandBernsteinhavemadeextensivecollectionsbothinNorthCelebesandintheSulaislands；yetalltheirresearchescombinedhaveonlyaddedeightspeciesoflandbirdstothoseformingpartofmyowncollection——afactwhichrendersitalmostcertainthatthereareveryfewmoretodiscover。

BesidesSalayerandBoutongonthesouth，withPelingandBungayontheeast，thethreeislandsoftheSula(orZula)ArchipelagoalsobelongzoologicallytoCelebes，althoughtheirpositionissuchthatitwouldseemmorenaturaltogroupthemwiththeMoluccas。About48landbirdsarenowknownfromtheSulagroup，andifwerejectfromthese，fivespecieswhichhaveawiderangeovertheArchipelago，theremainderaremuchmorecharacteristicofCelebesthanoftheMoluccas。Thirty-onespeciesareidenticalwiththoseoftheformerisland，andfourarerepresentativesofCelebesforms，whileonlyelevenareMoluccanspecies，andtwomorerepresentatives。

ButalthoughtheSulaislandsbelongtoCelebes，theyaresoclosetoBouruandthesouthernislandsoftheGilologroup，thatseveralpurelyMoluccanformshavemigratedthere，whicharequiteunknowntotheislandofCelebesitself；thewholethirteenMoluccanspeciesbeinginthiscategory，thusaddingtotheproductionsofCelebesaforeignelementwhichdoesnotreallybelongtoit。InstudyingthepeculiaritiesoftheCelebesianfauna，itwillthereforebewelltoconsideronlytheproductionsofthemainisland。

ThenumberoflandbirdsintheislandofCelebesis128，andfromthesewemay，asbefore，strikeoutasmallnumberofspecieswhichroamoverthewholeArchipelago(oftenfromIndiatothePacific)，andwhichthereforeonlyservetodisguisethepeculiaritiesofindividualislands。Theseare20innumber，andleave108specieswhichwemayconsiderasmoreespeciallycharacteristicoftheisland。Onaccuratelycomparingthesewiththebirdsofallthesurroundingcountries，wefindthatonlynineextendintotheislandswestward，andnineteenintotheislandseastward，whilenolessthan80areentirelyconfinedtotheCelebesianfauna——adegreeofindividualitywhich，consideringthesituationoftheisland，ishardlytobeequalledinanyotherpartoftheworld。Ifwestillmorecloselyexaminethese80species，weshallbestruckbythemanypeculiaritiesofstructuretheypresent，andbythecuriousaffinitieswithdistantpartsoftheworldwhichmanyofthemseemtoindicate。

Thesepointsareofsomuchinterestandimportancethatitwillbenecessarytopassinreviewallthosespecieswhicharepeculiartotheisland，andtocallattentiontowhateverismostworthyofremark。

SixspeciesoftheHawktribearepeculiartoCelebes；threeoftheseareverydistinctfromalliedbirdswhichrangeoverallIndiatoJavaandBorneo，andwhichthusseemtobesuddenlychangedonenteringCelebes。Another(Accipitertrinotatus)isabeautifulhawk，withelegantrowsoflargeroundwhitespotsonthetail，renderingitveryconspicuousandquitedifferentfromanyotherknownbirdofthefamily。Threeowlsarealsopeculiar；

andone，abarnowl(Strixrosenbergii)，isverymuchlargerandstrongerthanitsallyStrixjavanica，whichrangesfromIndiathroughalltheislandsasfarasLombock。

OfthetenParrotsfoundinCelebes，eightarepeculiar。Amongthemaretwospeciesofthesingularraquet-tailedparrotsformingthegenusPrioniturus，andwhicharecharacterisedbypossessingtwolongspoon-shapedfeathersinthetail。TwoalliedspeciesarefoundintheadjacentislandofMindanao，oneofthePhilippines，andthisformoftailisfoundinnootherparrotsinthewholeworld。AsmallspeciesofLorikeet(Trichoglossusflavoviridis)seemstohaveitsnearestallyinAustralia。

ThethreeWoodpeckerswhichinhabittheislandareallpeculiar，andarealliedtospeciesfoundinJavaandBorneo，althoughverydifferentfromthemall。

AmongthethreepeculiarCuckoos，twoareveryremarkable。

Phoenicophauscallirhynchusisthelargestandhandsomestspeciesofitsgenus，andisdistinguishedbythethreecoloursofitsbeak，brightyellow，red，andblack。Eudynamismelanorynchusdiffersfromallitsalliesinhavingajet-blackbill，whereastheotherspeciesofthegenusalwayshaveitgreen，yellow，orreddish。

TheCelebesRoller(Coraciastemmincki)isaninterestingexampleofonespeciesofagenusbeingcutofffromtherest。TherearespeciesofCoraciasinEurope，Asia，andAfrica，butnoneintheMalaypeninsula，Sumatra，Java，orBorneo。Thepresentspeciesseemsthereforequiteoutofplace；andwhatisstillmorecuriousisthefactthatitisnotatalllikeanyoftheAsiaticspecies，butseemsmoretoresemblethoseofAfrica。

Inthenextfamily，theBee-eaters，isanotherequallyisolatedbird，Meropogonforsteni，whichcombinesthecharactersofAfricanandIndianBee-eaters，andwhoseonlynearally，Meropogonbreweri，wasdiscoveredbyM。DuChailluinWestAfrica！

ThetwoCelebesHornbillshavenoclosealliesinthosewhichaboundinthesurroundingcountries。TheonlyThrush，Geocichlaerythronota，ismostnearlyalliedtoaspeciespeculiartoTimor。TwooftheFlycatchersarecloselyalliedtoIndianspecies，whicharenotfoundintheMalayislands。TwogenerasomewhatalliedtotheMagpies(StreptocittaandCharitornis)，butwhoseaffinitiesaresodoubtfulthatProfessorSchlegelplacesthemamongtheStarlings，areentirelyconfinedtoCelebes。Theyarebeautifullong-tailedbirds，withblackandwhiteplumage，andwiththefeathersoftheheadsomewhatrigidandscale-like。

DoubtfullyalliedtotheStarlingsaretwootherveryisolatedandbeautifulbirds。One，Enodeserythrophrys，hasashyandyellowplumage，butisornamentedwithbroadstripesoforange-

redabovetheeyes。Theother，Basilorniscelebensis，isablue-

blackbirdwithawhitepatchoneachsideofthebreast，andtheheadornamentedwithabeautifulcompressedscalycrestoffeathers，resemblinginformthatofthewell-knownCock-of-the-

rockofSouthAmerica。TheonlyallytothisbirdisfoundinCeram，andhasthefeathersofthecrestelongatedupwardsintoquiteadifferentform。

AstillmorecuriousbirdistheScissirostrumpagei，whichalthoughitisatpresentclassedintheStarlingfamily，differsfromallotherspeciesintheformofthebillandnostrils，andseemsmostnearlyalliedinitsgeneralstructuretotheOx-

peckers(Buphaga)oftropicalAfrica，nexttowhichthecelebratedornithologistPrinceBonapartefinallyplacedit。Itisalmostentirelyofaslateycolour，withyellowbillandfeet，butthefeathersoftherumpanduppertail-covertseachterminateinarigid，glossypencilortuftofavividcrimson。

Theseprettylittlebirdstaketheplaceofthemetallic-greenstarlingsofthegenusCalornis，whicharefoundinmostotherislandsoftheArchipelago，butwhichareabsentfromCelebes。

Theygoinflocks，feedingupongrainandfruits，oftenfrequentingdeadtrees，inholesofwhichtheybuildtheirnests；

andtheyclingtothetrunksaseasilyaswoodpeckersorcreepers。

OutofeighteenPigeonsfoundinCelebes，elevenarepeculiartoit。Twoofthem，PtilonopusgularisandTuracaenamenadensis，havetheirnearestalliesinTimor。Twoothers，CarpophagaforsteniandPhlaegenastristigmata，mostresemblePhilippineislandspecies；andCarpophagaradiatabelongstoaNewGuineagroup。Lastly，intheGallinaceoustribe，thecurioushelmetedMaleo(Megacephalonrubripes)isquiteisolated，havingitsnearest(butstilldistant)alliesintheBrush-turkeysofAustraliaandNewGuinea。

Judging，therefore，bytheopinionsoftheeminentnaturalistswhohavedescribedandclassifieditsbirds，wefindthatmanyofthespecieshavenonearallieswhatsoeverinthecountrieswhichsurroundCelebes，butareeitherquiteisolated，orindicaterelationswithsuchdistantregionsasNewGuinea，Australia，India，orAfrica。Othercasesofsimilarremoteaffinitiesbetweentheproductionsofdistantcountriesnodoubtexist，butinnospotupontheglobethatIamyetacquaintedwith，dosomanyofthemoccurtogether，ordotheyformsodecidedafeatureinthenaturalhistoryofthecountry。

TheMammaliaofCelebesareveryfewinnumber，consistingoffourteenterrestrialspeciesandsevenbats。Oftheformernolessthanelevenarepeculiar，includingtwowhichthereisreasontobelievemayhavebeenrecentlycarriedintootherislandsbyman。ThreespecieswhichhaveatolerablywiderangeintheArchipelago，are：(1)ThecuriousLemur，Tarsiusspectrum，whichisfoundinalltheislandsasfarwestwardasMalacca；(2)

thecommonMalayCivet，Viverratangalunga，whichhasastillwiderrange；and(3)aDeer，whichseemstobethesameastheRusahippelaphusofJava，andwasprobablyintroducedbymanatanearlyperiod。

Themorecharacteristicspeciesareasfollow：

Cynopithecusnigrescens，acuriousbaboon-likemonkeyifnotatruebaboon，whichaboundsalloverCelebes，andisfoundnowhereelsebutintheonesmallislandofBatchian，intowhichithasprobablybeenintroducedaccidentally。AnalliedspeciesisfoundinthePhilippines，butinnootherislandoftheArchipelagoisthereanythingresemblingthem。Thesecreaturesareaboutthesizeofaspaniel，ofajet-blackcolour，andhavetheprojectingdog-likemuzzleandoverhangingbrowsofthebaboons。Theyhavelargeredcallositiesandashortfleshytail，scarcelyaninchlongandhardlyvisible。Theygoinlargebands，livingchieflyinthetrees，butoftendescendingonthegroundandrobbinggardensandorchards。

Anoadepressicornis，theSapi-utan，orwildcowoftheMalays，isananimalwhichhasbeenthecauseofmuchcontroversy，astowhetheritshouldbeclassedasox，buffalo，orantelope。Itissmallerthananyotherwildcattle，andinmanyrespectsseemstoapproachsomeoftheox-likeantelopesofAfrica。Itisfoundonlyinthemountains，andissaidnevertoinhabitplaceswheretherearedeer。ItissomewhatsmallerthanasmallHighlandcow，andhaslongstraighthorns，whichareringedatthebaseandslopebackwardsovertheneck。

Thewildpigseemstobeofaspeciespeculiartotheisland；butamuchmorecuriousanimalofthisfamilyistheBabirusaorPig-

deer；sonamedbytheMalaysfromitslongandslenderlegs，andcurvedtusksresemblinghorns。Thisextraordinarycreatureresemblesapigingeneralappearance，butitdoesnotdigwithitssnout，asitfeedsonfallenfruits。Thetusksofthelowerjawareverylongandsharp，buttheupperonesinsteadofgrowingdownwardsintheusualwayarecompletelyreversed，growingupwardsoutofbonysocketsthroughtheskinoneachsideofthesnout，curvingbackwardstoneartheeyes，andinoldanimalsoftenreachingeightorteninchesinlength。Itisdifficulttounderstandwhatcanbetheuseoftheseextraordinaryhorn-liketeeth。Someoftheoldwriterssupposedthattheyservedashooks，bywhichthecreaturecouldrestitsheadonabranch。Butthewayinwhichtheyusuallydivergejustoverandinfrontoftheeyehassuggestedthemoreprobableidea，thattheyservetoguardtheseorgansfromthornsandspines，whilehuntingforfallenfruitsamongthetangledthicketsofrattansandotherspinyplants。Eventhis，however，isnotsatisfactory，forthefemale，whomustseekherfoodinthesameway，doesnotpossessthem。Ishouldbeinclinedtobelieverather，thatthesetuskswereonceuseful，andwerethenworndownasfastastheygrew；butthatchangedconditionsoflifehaverenderedthemunnecessary，andtheynowdevelopintoamonstrousform，justastheincisorsoftheBeaverorRabbitwillgoongrowing，iftheoppositeteethdonotwearthemaway。Inoldanimalstheyreachanenormoussize，andaregenerallybrokenoffasifbyfighting。

HereagainwehavearesemblancetotheWart-hogsofAfrica，whoseuppercaninesgrowoutwardsandcurveupsoastoformatransitionfromtheusualmodeofgrowthtothatoftheBabirusa。

Inotherrespectsthereseemsnoaffinitybetweentheseanimals，andtheBabirusastandscompletelyisolated，havingnoresemblancetothepigsofanyotherpartoftheworld。ItisfoundalloverCelebesandintheSulaislands，andalsoinBourn，theonlyspotbeyondtheCelebesgrouptowhichitextends；andwhichislandalsoshowssomeaffinitytotheSulaislandsinitsbirds，indicatingperhaps，acloserconnectionbetweenthematsomeformerperiodthannowexists。

TheotherterrestrialmammalsofCelebesarefivespeciesofsquirrels，whicharealldistinctfromthoseofJavaandBorneo，andmarkthefurthesteastwardrangeofthegenusinthetropics；

andtwoofEasternopossums(Cuscus)，whicharedifferentfromthoseoftheMoluccas，andmarkthefurthestwestwardextensionofthisgenusandoftheMarsupialorder。ThusweseethattheMammaliaofCelebesarenolessindividualandremarkablethanthebirds，sincethreeofthelargestandmostinterestingspecieshavenonearalliesinsurroundingcountries，butseemvaguelytoindicatearelationtotheAfricancontinent。

Manygroupsofinsectsappeartobeespeciallysubjecttolocalinfluences，theirformsandcolourschangingwitheachchangeofconditions，orevenwithachangeoflocalitywheretheconditionsseemalmostidentical。Weshouldthereforeanticipatethattheindividualitymanifestedinthehigheranimalswouldbestillmoreprominentinthesecreatureswithlessstableorganisms。Ontheotherhand，however，wehavetoconsiderthatthedispersionandmigrationofinsectsismuchmoreeasilyeffectedthanthatofmammalsorevenofbirds。Theyaremuchmorelikelytobecarriedawaybyviolentwinds；theireggsmaybecarriedonleaveseitherbystormsofwindorbyfloatingtrees，andtheirlarvaeandpupae，oftenburiedintrunksoftreesorenclosedinwaterproofcocoons，maybefloatedfordaysorweeksuninjuredovertheocean。Thesefacilitiesofdistributiontendtoassimilatetheproductionsofadjacentlandsintwoways：first，bydirectmutualinterchangeofspecies；andsecondly，byrepeatedimmigrationsoffreshindividualsofaspeciescommontootherislands，whichbyintercrossing，tendtoobliteratethechangesofformandcolour，whichdifferencesofconditionsmightotherwiseproduce。Bearingthesefactsinmind，weshallfindthattheindividualityoftheinsectsofCelebesisevengreaterthanwehaveanyreasontoexpect。

Forthepurposeofinsuringaccuracyincomparisonswithotherislands，Ishallconfinemyselftothosegroupswhicharebestknown，orwhichIhavemyselfcarefullystudied。BeginningwiththePapilionidaeorSwallow-tailedbutterflies，Celebespossesses24species，ofwhichthelargenumberof18arenotfoundinanyotherisland。IfwecomparethiswithBorneo，whichoutof29

specieshasonlytwonotfoundelsewhere，thedifferenceisasstrikingasanythingcanbe。InthefamilyofthePieridae，orwhitebutterflies，thedifferenceisnotquitesogreat，owingperhapstothemorewanderinghabitsofthegroup；butitisstillveryremarkable。Outof30speciesinhabitingCelebes，19

arepeculiar，whileJava(fromwhichmorespeciesareknownthanfromSumatraorBorneo)，outof37species，hasonly13peculiar。

TheDanaidaearelarge，butweak-flyingbutterflies，whichfrequentforestsandgardens，andareplainlybutoftenveryrichlycoloured。Ofthesemyowncollectioncontains16speciesfromCelebesand15fromBorneo；butwhereasnolessthan14areconfinedtotheformerisland，onlytwoarepeculiartothelatter。TheNymphalidaeareaveryextensivegroup，ofgenerallystrong-wingedandverybright-colouredbutterflies，veryabundantinthetropics，andrepresentedinourowncountrybyourFritillaries，ourVanessas，andourPurple-emperor。SomemonthsagoIdrewupalistoftheEasternspeciesofthisgroup，includingallthenewonesdiscoveredbymyself，andarrivedatthefollowingcomparativeresults：——

SpeciesofSpeciespeculiartoPercentageNymphalidae。eachisland。ofpeculiarSpecies。

Java……70……23……33

Borneo……52……15……29

Celebes……48……35……73

TheColeopteraaresoextensivethatfewofthegroupshaveyetbeencarefullyworkedout。Iwillthereforerefertooneonly，whichIhavemyselfrecentlystudied——theCetoniadaeorRose-

chafers——agroupofbeetleswhich，owingtotheirextremebeauty，havebeenmuchsoughtafter。FromJava37speciesoftheseinsectsareknown，andfromCelebesonly30；yetonly13，or35percent，arepeculiartotheformerisland，and19，or63

percent，tothelatter。

Theresultofthesecomparisonsis，thatalthoughCelebesisasingle，largeislandwithonlyafewsmalleronescloselygroupedaroundit，wemustreallyconsideritasformingoneofthegreatdivisionsoftheArchipelago，equalinrankandimportancetothewholeoftheMoluccanorPhilippinegroups，tothePapuanislands，ortotheIndo-Malayislands(Java，Sumatra，Borneo，andtheMalaypeninsula)。Takingthosefamiliesofinsectsandbirdswhicharebestknown，thefollowingtableshowsthecomparisonofCelebeswiththeothergroupsofislands：——

PAPILIONIDAEANDHAWKS，PARROTS，AND

PERIDAEPIGEONS。

PercentofpeculiarPercentofpeculiarSpecies。Species。

Indo-Malayregion……56……54

Philippinegroup……66……73

Celebes……69……60

Moluccangroup……52……62

Timorgroup……42……47

Papuangroup……64……74

Theselargeandwell-knownfamilieswellrepresentthegeneralcharacterofthezoologyofCelebes；andtheyshowthatthisislandisreallyoneofthemostisolatedportionsoftheArchipelago，althoughsituatedinitsverycentre。

ButtheinsectsofCelebespresentuswithotherphenomenamorecuriousandmoredifficulttoexplainthantheirstrikingindividuality。Thebutterfliesofthatislandareinmanycasescharacterisedbyapeculiarityofoutline，whichdistinguishesthemataglancefromthoseofanyotherpartoftheworld。ItismoststronglymanifestedinthePapiliosandthePieridae，andconsistsintheforewingsbeingeitherstronglycurvedorabruptlybentnearthebase，orintheextremitybeingelongatedandoftensomewhathooked。Outofthe14speciesofPapilioinCelebes，13exhibitthispeculiarityinagreaterorlessdegree，whencomparedwiththemostnearlyalliedspeciesofthesurroundingislands。TenspeciesofPieridaehavethesamecharacter，andinfourorfiveoftheNymphalidaeitisalsoverydistinctlymarked。Inalmosteverycase，thespeciesfoundinCelebesaremuchlargerthanthaneoftheislandswestward，andatleastequaltothoseoftheMoluccas，orevenlarger。Thedifferenceofformis，however，themostremarkablefeature，asitisaltogetheranewthingforawholesetofspeciesinonecountrytodifferinexactlythesamewayfromthecorrespondingsetsinallthesurroundingcountries；anditissowellmarked，thatwithoutlookingatthedetailsofcolouring，mostCelebesPapiliosandmanyPieridae，canbeatoncedistinguishedfromthoseofotherislandsbytheirformalone。

Theoutsidefigureofeachpairheregiven，showstheexactsizeandformofthefore-winginabutterflyofCelebes，whiletheinneronerepresentsthemostcloselyalliedspeciesfromoneoftheadjacentislands。Figure1showsthestronglycurvedmarginoftheCelebesspecies，Papiliogigon，comparedwiththemuchstraightermarginofPapiliodemolionfromSingaporeandJava。

Figure2showstheabruptbendoverthebaseofthewinginPapiliomiletusofCelebes，comparedwiththeslightcurvatureinthecommonPapiliosarpedon，whichhasalmostexactlythesameformfromIndiatoNewGuineaandAustralia。Figure3showstheelongatedwingofTachyriszarinda，anativeofCelebes，comparedwiththemuchshorterwingofTachyrisnero，averycloselyalliedspeciesfoundinallthewesternislands。Thedifferenceofformisineachcasesufficientlyobvious，butwhentheinsectsthemselvesarecompared，itismuchmorestrikingthaninthesepartialoutlines。

Fromtheanalogyofbirds，weshouldsupposethatthepointedwinggaveincreasedrapidityofflight，sinceitisacharacterofterns，swallows，falcons，andoftheswift-flyingpigeons。A

shortandroundedwing，ontheotherhand，alwaysaccompaniesamorefeebleormorelaboriousflight，andonemuchlessundercommand。Wemightsuppose，therefore，thatthebutterflieswhichpossessthispeculiarformwerebetterabletoescapepursuit。

Butthereseemsnounusualabundanceofinsectivorousbirdstorenderthisnecessary；andaswecannotbelievethatsuchacuriouspeculiarityiswithoutmeaning，itseemsprobablethatitistheresultofaformerconditionofthings，whentheislandpossessedamuchricherfauna，therelicsofwhichweseeintheisolatedbirdsandMammalianowinhabitingit；andwhentheabundanceofinsectivorouscreaturesrenderedsomeunusualmeansofescapeanecessityforthelarge-wingedandshowybutterflies。

Itissomeconfirmationofthisview，thatneithertheverysmallnortheveryobscurelycolouredgroupsofbutterflieshaveelongatedwings，norisanymodificationperceptibleinthosestrong-wingedgroupswhichalreadypossessgreatstrengthandrapidityofflight。Thesewerealreadysufficientlyprotectedfromtheirenemies，anddidnotrequireincreasedpowerofescapingfromthem。Itisnotatallclearwhateffectthepeculiarcurvatureofthewingshasinmodifyingflight。

AnothercuriousfeatureinthezoologyofCelebesisalsoworthyofattention。Ialludetotheabsenceofseveralgroupswhicharefoundonbothsidesofit，intheIndo-MalayislandsaswellasintheMoluccas；andwhichthusseemtobeunable，fromsomeunknowncause，toobtainafootingintheinterveningisland。InBirdswehavethetwofamiliesofPodargidaeandLaniadae，whichrangeoverthewholeArchipelagoandintoAustralia，andwhichyethavenorepresentativeinCelebes。ThegeneraCeyxamongKingfishers，CrinigeramongThrushes，RhipiduraamongFlycatchers，CalornisamongStarlings，andErythruraamongFinches，areallfoundintheMoluccasaswellasinBorneoandJava——butnotasinglespeciesbelongingtoanyoneofthemisfoundinCelebes。Amonginsects，thelargegenusofRose-chafers，Lomaptera，isfoundineverycountryandislandbetweenIndiaandNewGuinea，exceptCelebes。Thisunexpectedabsenceofmanygroups，fromonelimiteddistrictintheverycentreoftheirareaofdistribution，isaphenomenonnotaltogetherunique，but，Ibelieve，nowheresowellmarkedasinthiscase；anditcertainlyaddsconsiderablytothestrangecharacterofthisremarkableisland。

TheanomaliesandeccentricitiesinthenaturalhistoryofCelebeswhichIhaveendeavouredtosketchinthischapter，allpointtoanorigininaremoteantiquity。Thehistoryofextinctanimalsteachesusthattheirdistributionintimeandinspacearestrikinglysimilar。Theruleis，thatjustastheproductionsofadjacentareasusuallyresembleeachotherclosely，sodotheproductionsofsuccessiveperiodsinthesamearea；andastheproductionsofremoteareasgenerallydifferwidely，sodotheproductionsofthesameareaatremoteepochs。Wearethereforeledirresistiblytotheconclusion，thatchangeofspecies，stillmoreofgenericandoffamilyform，isamatteroftime。Buttimemayhaveledtoachangeofspeciesinonecountry，whileinanothertheformshavebeenmorepermanent，orthechangemayhavegoneonatanequalratebutinadifferentmannerinboth。

Ineithercase，theamountofindividualityintheproductionsofadistrictwillbetosomeextentameasureofthetimethatadistricthasbeenisolatedfromthosethatsurroundit。Judgedbythisstandard，CelebesmustbeoneoftheoldestpartsoftheArchipelago。ItprobablydatesfromaperiodnotonlyanteriortothatwhenBorneo，Java，andSumatrawereseparatedfromthecontinent，butfromthatstillmoreremoteepochwhenthelandthatnowconstitutestheseislandshadnotrisenabovetheocean。

Suchanantiquityisnecessary，toaccountforthenumberofanimalformsitpossesses，whichshownorelationtothoseofIndiaorAustralia，butratherwiththoseofAfrica；andweareledtospeculateonthepossibilityoftherehavingonceexistedacontinentintheIndianOceanwhichmightserveasabridgetoconnectthesedistantcountries。Nowitisacuriousfact，thattheexistenceofsuchalandhasbeenalreadythoughtnecessary，toaccountforthedistributionofthecuriousQuadrumanaformingthefamilyoftheLemurs。ThesehavetheirmetropolisinMadagascar，butarefoundalsoinAfrica，inCeylon，inthepeninsulaofIndia，andintheMalayArchipelagoasfarasCelebes，whichisitsfurthesteasternlimit。Dr。Sclaterhasproposedforthehypotheticalcontinentconnectingthesedistantpoints，andwhoseformerexistenceisindicatedbytheMascareneislandsandtheMaldivecoralgroup，thenameofLemuria。Whetherornotwebelieveinitsexistenceintheexactformhereindicated，thestudentofgeographicaldistributionmustseeintheextraordinaryandisolatedproductionsofCelebes，proofoftheformerexistenceofsomecontinentfromwhencetheancestorsofthesecreatures，andofmanyotherintermediateforms，couldhavebeenderived。

InthisshortsketchofthemoststrikingpeculiaritiesoftheNaturalHistoryofCelebes，IhavebeenobligedtoentermuchintodetailsthatIfearwillhavebeenuninterestingtothegeneralreader，butunlessIhaddoneso，myexpositionwouldhavelostmuchofitsforceandvalue。ItisbythesedetailsalonethatIhavebeenabletoprovetheunusualfeaturesthatCelebespresentstous。SituatedintheverymidstofanArchipelago，andcloselyhemmedinoneverysidebyislandsteemingwithvariedformsoflife，itsproductionshaveyetasurprisingamountofindividuality。Whileitispoorintheactualnumberofitsspecies，itisyetwonderfullyrichinpeculiarforms，manyofwhicharesingularorbeautiful，andareinsomecasesabsolutelyuniqueupontheglobe。Webeholdherethecuriousphenomenonofgroupsofinsectschangingtheiroutlineinasimilarmannerwhencomparedwiththoseofsurroundingislands，suggestingsomecommoncausewhichneverseemstohaveactedelsewhereinexactlythesameway。Celebes，therefore，presentsuswithamoststrikingexampleoftheinterestthatattachestothestudyofthegeographicaldistributionofanimals。Wecanseethattheirpresentdistributionupontheglobeistheresultofallthemorerecentchangestheearth\'ssurfacehasundergone；and，byacarefulstudyofthephenomena，wearesometimesabletodeduceapproximatelywhatthosepastchangesmusthavebeeninordertoproducethedistributionwefindtoexist。InthecomparativelysimplecaseoftheTimorgroup，wewereabletodeducethesechangeswithsomeapproachtocertainty。InthemuchmorecomplicatedcaseofCelebes，wecanonlyindicatetheirgeneralnature，sincewenowseetheresult，notofanysingleorrecentchangeonly，butofawholeseriesofthelaterrevolutionswhichhaveresultedinthepresentdistributionoflandintheEasternHemisphere。

CHAPTERXIX。

BANDA。

(DECEMBER1857，MAY1859，APRIL1861。)

THEDutchmailsteamerinwhichItravelledfromMacassartoBandaandAmboynawasaroomyandcomfortablevessel，althoughitwouldonlygosixmilesanhourinthefinestweather。Astherewerebutthreepassengersbesidesmyself，wehadabundanceofroom，andIwasabletoenjoyavoyagemorethanIhadeverdonebefore。ThearrangementsaresomewhatdifferentfromthoseonboardEnglishorIndiansteamers。Therearenocabinservants，aseverycabinpassengerinvariablybringshisown，andtheship\'sstewardsattendonlytothesaloonandtheeatingdepartment。AtsixA。M。acupofteaorcoffeeisprovidedforthosewholikeit。Atseventoeightthereisalightbreakfastoftea，eggs，sardines，etc。Atten，Madeira，Ginandbittersarebroughtondeckasawhetforthesubstantialeleveno\'clockbreakfast，whichdiffersfromadinneronlyintheabsenceofsoup。CupsofteaandcoffeearebroughtaroundatthreeP。M。；bitters，etc。

againatfive，agooddinnerwithbeerandclaretathalf-pastsix，concludedbyteaandcoffeeateight。Betweenwhiles，beerandsodawateraresuppliedwhencalledfor，sothereisnolackoflittlegastronomicalexcitementstowhileawaythetediumofaseavoyage。

OurfirststoppingplacewasCoupang，atthewestendofthelargeislandofTimor。Wethencoastedalongthatislandforseveralhundredmiles，havingalwaysaviewofhillyrangescoveredwithscantyvegetation，risingridgebehindridgetotheheightofsixorseventhousandfeet。TurningofftowardsBandawepassedPulo-Cambing，Wetter，andRoma，allofwhicharedesolateandbarrenvolcanicislands，almostasuninvitingasAden，andofferingastrangecontrasttotheusualverdureandluxurianceoftheArchipelago。IntwodaysmorewereachedthevolcanicgroupofBanda，coveredwithanunusuallydenseandbrilliantgreenvegetation，indicatingthatwehadpassedbeyondtherangeofthehotdrywindsfromtheplainsofCentralAustralia。Bandaisalovelylittlespot，itsthreeislandsenclosingasecureharbourfromwhencenooutletisvisible，andwithwatersotransparent，thatlivingcoralsandeventheminutestobjectsareplainlyseenonthevolcanicsandatadepthofsevenoreightfathoms。Theeversmokingvolcanorearsitsbareconeononeside，whilethetwolargerislandsareclothedwithvegetationtothesummitofthehills。

Goingonshore，Iwalkedupaprettypathwhichleadstothehighestpointoftheislandonwhichthetownissituated，wherethereisatelegraphstationandamagnificentview。Belowliesthelittletown，withitsneatred-tiledwhitehousesandthethatchedcottagesofthenatives，boundedononesidebytheoldPortuguesefort。Beyond，abouthalfamiledistant，liesthelargerislandintheshapeofahorseshoe，formedofarangeofabrupthillscoveredwithfineforestandnutmeggardens；whilecloseoppositethetownisthevolcano，forminganearlyperfectcone，thelowerpartonlycoveredwithalightgreenbushyvegetation。Onitsnorthsidetheoutlineismoreuneven，andthereisaslightholloworchasmaboutone-fifthofthewaydown，fromwhichconstantlyissuetwocolumnsofsmoke，aswellasagooddealfromtheruggedsurfacearoundandfromsomespotsnearerthesummit。Awhiteefflorescence，probablysulphur，isthicklyspreadovertheupperpartofthemountain，markedbythenarrowblackverticallinesofwatergullies。Thesmokeunitesasitrises，andformsadensecloud，whichincalm，dampweatherspreadsoutintoawidecanopyhidingthetopofthemountain。Atnightandearlymorning，itoftenrisesupstraightandleavesthewholeoutlineclear。

Itisonlywhenactuallygazingonanactivevolcanothatonecanfullyrealizeitsawfulnessandgrandeur。Whencecomesthatinexhaustiblefirewhosedenseandsulphuroussmokeforeverissuesfromthisbareanddesolatepeak？Whencethemightyforcesthatproducedthatpeak，andstillfromtimetotimeexhibitthemselvesintheearthquakesthatalwaysoccurinthevicinityofvolcanicvents？Theknowledgefromchildhoodofthefactthatvolcanoesandearthquakesexist，hastakenawaysomewhatofthestrangeandexceptionalcharacterthatreallybelongstothem。