The Malay Archipelago

第11章

Myfirstinquirieswereaboutthelories,butIcouldgetverylittlesatisfactoryinformation。Theonlykindsknownwerethering-neckedloryandthecommonredandgreenlorikeet,bothcommonatAmboyna。BlackToriesandcockatooswerequiteunknown。

TheAlfurosresidedinthemountainsfiveorsixdays\'journeyaway,andtherewereonlyoneortwolivebirdstobefoundinthevillage,andthesewereworthless。Myhunterscouldgetnothingbutafewcommonbirds;andnotwithstandingfinemountains,luxuriantforests,andalocalityahundredmileseastward,Icouldfindnonewinsects,andextremelyfewevenofthecommonspeciesofAmboynaandWestCeram。Itwasevidentlynousestoppingatsuchaplace,andIwasdeterminedtomoveonassoonaspossible。

ThevillageofTelutiispopulous,butstragglingandverydirty。

Sagotreesherecoverthemountainside,insteadofgrowingasusualinlowswamps;butacloserexaminationshowsthattheygrowinswampypatches,whichhaveformedamongthelooserocksthatcovertheground,andwhicharekeptconstantlyfullofmoisturebytherains,andbytheabundanceofrillswhichtrickledownamongthem。Thissagoformsalmostthewholesubsistenceoftheinhabitants,whoappeartocultivatenothingbutafewsmallpatchesofmaizeandsweetpotatoes。Hence,asbeforeexplained,thescarcityofinsects。TheOrang-kayahasfineclothes,handsomelamps,andotherexpensiveEuropeangoods,yetliveseverydayonsagoandfishasmiserablyastherest。

AfterthreedaysinthisbarrenplaceIleftonthemorningofMarch6th,intwoboatsofthesamesizeasthosewhichhadbroughtmetoTeluti。WithsomedifficultyIhadobtainedpermissiontotaketheseboatsontoTobo,whereIintendedtostayawhile,andthereforegotonprettyquickly,changingmenatthevillageofLaiemu,andarrivinginaheavyrainatAhtiago。Astherewasagooddealofsurfhere,andlikelytobemoreifthewindblewhardduringthenight,ourboatswerepulleduponthebeach;andaftersuppingattheOrang-kaya\'shouse,andwritingdownavocabularyofthelanguageoftheAlfuros,wholiveinthemountainsinland,Ireturnedtosleepintheboat。Nextmorningweproceeded,changingmenatWarenama,andagainatHatometen,atbothofwhichplacestherewasmuchsurfandnoharbour,sothatthemenhadtogoonshoreandcomeonboardbyswimming。ArrivingintheeveningofMarch7thatBatuassa,thefirstvillagebelongingtotheRajahofTobo,andunderthegovernmentofBanda,thesurfwasveryheavy,owingtoastrongwestwardswell。Wethereforeroundedtherockypointonwhichthevillagewassituated,butfounditverylittlebetterontheotherside。Wewereobliged,however,togoonshorehere;

andwaitingtillthepeopleonthebeachhadmadepreparations,byplacingarowoflogsfromthewater\'sedgeonwhichtopullupourboats,werowedasquicklyaswecouldstraightontothem,afterwatchingtilltheheaviestsurfshadpassed。Themomentwetouchedgroundourmenalljumpedout,and,assistedbythoseonshore,attemptedtohauluptheboathighanddry,butnothavingsufficienthands,thesurfrepeatedlybrokeintothestern。Thesteepnessofthebeach,however,preventedanydamagebeingdone,andtheotherboathavingbothcrewstohaulatit,wasgotupwithoutdifficulty。

Thenextmorning,thewaterbeinglow,thebreakerswereatsomedistancefromshore,andwehadtowatchforasmoothmomentafterbringingtheboatstothewater\'sedge,andsogotsafelyouttosea。Atthetwonextvillages,ToboandOssong,wealsotookinfreshmen,whocameswimmingthroughthesurf;andatthelatterplacetheRajahcameonboardandaccompaniedmetoKissalaut,wherehehasahousewhichhelentmeduringmystay。

Hereagainwasaheavysurf,anditwaswithgreatdifficultywegottheboatssafelyhauledup。AtAmboynaIhadbeenpromisedatthisseasonacalmseaandthewindoffshore,butinthiscase,asineveryother,Ihadbeenunabletoobtainanyreliableinformationastothewindsandseasonsofplacesdistanttwoorthreedays\'journey。Itappears,however,thatowingtothegeneraldirectionoftheislandofCeram(E。S。E。andW。N。W。),thereisaheavysurfandscarcelyanyshelteronthesouthcoastduringthewestmonsoon,whenaloneajourneytotheeastwardcanbesafelymade;whileduringtheeastmonsoon,whenIproposedtoreturnalongthenorthcoasttoWahai,Ishouldprobablyfindthatequallyexposedanddangerous。ButalthoughthegeneraldirectionofthewestmonsoonintheBandaseacausesaheavyswell,withbadsurfonthecoast,yetwehadlittleadvantageofthewind;for,owingIsupposetothenumerousbaysandheadlands,wehadcontrarysouth-eastorevendueeastwindsalltheway,andhadtomakealmostthewholedistancefromAmboynabyforceofrowing。Wehadthereforeallthedisadvantages,andnoneoftheadvantages,ofthiswestmonsoon,whichIwastoldwouldinsuremeaquickandpleasantjourney。

IwasdelayedatKissa-lautjustfourweeks,althoughafterthefirstthreedaysIsawthatitwouldbequiteuselessformetostay,andbeggedtheRajahtogivemeaprauandmentocarrymeontoGoram。Butinsteadofgettingonecloseathand,heinsistedonsendingseveralmilesoff;andwhenaftermanydelaysitatlengtharrived,itwasaltogetherunsuitableandtoosmalltocarrymybaggage。Anotherwasthenorderedtobebroughtimmediately,andwaspromisedinthreedays,butdoablethattimeelapsedandnoneappeared,andwewereobligedatlengthtogetoneattheadjoiningvillage,whereitmighthavebeensomuchmoreeasilyobtainedatfirst。Thencamecaulkingandcoveringover,andquarrelsbetweentheownerandtheRajah\'smen,whichoccupiedmorethananothertendays,duringallwhichtimeIwasgettingabsolutelynothing,findingthispartofCeramaperfectdesertinzoology。althoughamostbeautifulcountry,andwithaveryluxuriantvegetation。Itwasacompletepuzzle,whichtothisdayIhavenotbeenabletounderstand;theonlythingI

obtainedworthnoticeduringmymonth\'sstayherebeingafewgoodlandshells。

Atlength,onApril4th,wesucceededingettingawayinourlittleboatofaboutfourtonsburthen,inwhichmynumerousboxeswerewithdifficultypackedsoastoleavesleepingandcoolingroom。Thecraftcouldnotboastanounceofironorafootofropeinanypartofitsconstruction,noramorselofpitchorpaintinitsdecoration。Theplankswerefastenedtogetherintheusualingeniouswaywithpegsandrattans。Themastwasabambootriangle,requiringnoshrouds,andcarryingalongmatsail;tworudderswerehungonthequartersbyrattans,theanchorwasofwood,andalongandthickrattan;servedasacable。Ourcrewconsistedoffourmen,whosepoleaccommodationwasaboutthreefeetbyfourinthebowsandstern,withtheslopingthatchrooftostretchthemselvesuponforachange。Wehadnearlyahundredmilestogo,fullyexposedtotheswelloftheBandasea,whichissometimesveryconsiderable;butweluckilyhaditcalmandsmooth,sothatwemadethevoyageincomparativecomfort。

OntheseconddaywepassedtheeasternextremityofCeram,formedofagroupofhummockylimestonehills;and,sailingbytheislandsofKwammerandKeffing,boththicklyinhabited,cameinsightofthelittletownofKilwaru,whichappearstoriseoutofthesealikearusticVenice。Thisplacehasreallyamostextraordinaryappearance,asnotaparticleoflandorvegetationcanbeseen,butalongwayoutatseaalargevillageseemstofloatuponthewater。Thereisofcourseasmallislandofseveralacresinextent;butthehousesarebuiltsocloselyallroundituponpilesinthewater,thatitiscompletelyhidden。

Itisaplaceofgreattraffic,beingtheemporiumformuchoftheproduceoftheseEasternseas,andistheresidenceofmanyBugisandCeramesetraders,andappearstohavebeenchosenonaccountofitsbeingclosetotheonlydeepchannelbetweentheextensiveshoalsofCeram-lautandthoseborderingtheeastendofCeram。Wenowhadcontraryeastwinds,andwereobligedtopoleovertheshallowcoralreefsofCeram-lautfornearlythirtymiles。Theonlydangerofourvoyagewasjustatitstermination,foraswewererowingtowardsManowolko,thelargestoftheGoramgroup,wewerecarriedoutsorapidlybyastrongwesterlycurrent,thatIwasalmostcertainatonetimeweshouldpassclearoftheisland;inwhichcaseoursituationwouldhavebeenbothdisagreeableanddangerous,as,withtheeastwindwhichhadjustsetin,wemighthavebeenunabletoreturnformanydays,andwehadnotaday\'swateronboard。AtthecriticalmomentI

servedoutsomestrongspiritstomymen,whichputfreshvigourintotheirarms,andcarriedusoutoftheinfluenceofthecurrentbeforeitwastoolate。

MANOWOLKO,GORAMGROUP。

OnarrivingatManowolko,wefoundtheRajahwasattheoppositeislandofGoram;buthewasimmediatelysentfor,andinthemeantimealargeshedwasgivenforouraccommodation。AtnighttheRajahcame,andthenextdayIhadavisitfromhim,andfound,asIexpected,thatIhadalreadymadehisacquaintancethreeyearsbeforeatAru。Hewasveryfriendly,andwehadalongtalk;butwhenIbeggedforaboatandmentotakemeontoKe,hemadeahostofdifficulties。Therewerenopraus,asallhadgonetoKeorAim;andevenifonewerefound,therewerenomen,asitwastheseasonwhenallwereawaytrading。Buthepromisedtoseeaboutit,andIwasobligedtowait。Forthenexttwoorthreedaystherewasmoretalkingandmoredifficultieswereraised,andIhadtimetomakeanexaminationoftheislandandthepeople。

Manowolkoisaboutfifteenmileslong,andisamere;upraisedcoral-reef。Twoorthreehundredyardsinlandrisecliffsofcoralrock,inmanypartsperpendicular,andoneortwohundredfeethigh;andthis,Iwasinformed,ischaracteristicofthewholeisland,inwhichthereisnootherkindofrock,andnostreamofwater。Afewcracksandchasmsfurnishpathstothetopofthesecliffs,wherethereisanopenundulatingcountry,inwhichthechiefvegetablegroundsoftheinhabitantsaresituated。

Thepeoplehere——atleastthechiefmen——wereofamuchpurerMalayracethantheMahometansofthemainlandofCeram,whichisperhapsduetotherehavingbeennoindigenesonthesesmallislandswhenthefirstsettlersarrived。InCeram,theAlfurosofPapuanracearethepredominanttype,theMalayphysiognomybeingseldomwellmarked;whereasherethereverseisthecase,andaslightinfusionofPapuanonamixtureofMalayandBugishasproducedaverygood-lookingsetofpeople。Thelowerclassofthepopulationconsistalmostentirelyoftheindigenesoftheadjacentisland。Theyareafinerace,withstrongly-markedPapuanfeatures,frizzlyhair,andbrowncomplexions。TheGoramlanguageisspokenalsoattheeastendofCeram,andintheadjacentislands。IthasageneralresemblancetothelanguagesofCeram,butpossessesapeculiarelementwhichIhavenotmetwithinotherlanguagesoftheArchipelago。

Aftergreatdelay,consideringtheimportanceofeverydayatthistimeofyear,amiserableboatandfivemenwerefound,andwithsomedifficultyIstowedawayinitsuchbaggageasitwasabsolutelynecessaryformetotake,leavingscarcelysittingorsleepingroom。Thesailingqualitiesoftheboatwerehighlyvaunted,andIwasassuredthatatthisseasonasmallonewasmuchmorelikelytosucceedinmakingthejourney。Wefirstcoastedalongtheisland,reachingitseasternextremitythefollowingmorning(April11th),andfoundastrongW。S。W。windblowing,whichjustallowedustolayacrosstotheMatabelloIslands,adistancelittleshortoftwentymiles。Ididnotmuchlikethelookoftheheavyskyandratherroughsea,andmymenwereveryunwillingtomaketheattempt;butaswecouldscarcelyhopeforabetterchance,Iinsistedupontrying。Thepitchingandjerkingofourlittleboat,soonreducedmetoastateofmiserablehelplessness,andIlaydown,resignedtowhatevermighthappen。Afterthreeorfourhours,Iwastoldwewerenearlyover;butwhenIgotup,twohourslater,justasthesunwassetting,Ifoundwewerestillagooddistancefromthepoint,owingtoastrongcurrentwhichhadbeenforsometimeagainstus。Nightclosedin,andthewinddrewmoreahead,sowehadtotakeinsail。Thencameacalm,andwerowedandsailedasoccasionoffered;anditwasfourinthemorningwhenwereachedthevillageofKisslwoi,nothavingmademorethanthreemilesinthelasttwelvehours。

MATABELLOISLANDS。

AtdaylightIfoundwewere;inabeautifullittleharbour,formedbyacoralreefabouttwohundredyardsfromshore,andperfectlysecureineverywind。Havingeatennothingsincethepreviousmorning,wecookedourbreakfastcomfortablyonshore,andleftaboutnoon,coastingalongthetwoislandsofthisgroup,whichlieinthesameline,andareseparatedbyanarrowchannel。Bothseementirelyformedofraisedcoralrock;butthemhasbeenasubsequentsubsidence,asshavenbythebarrierreefwhichextendsallalongthematvaryingdistancesfromtheshore,Thisreefissometimesonlymarkedbya。lineofbreakerswhenthereisalittleswellonthesea;inotherplacesthereisaridgeofdeadcoralabovethewater,whichishereandtherehighenoughtosupportafewlowbushes。ThiswasthefirstexampleI

hadmetwithofatruebarrierreefduetosubsidence,ashasbeensoclearlyshownbyMr。Darwin。Inashelteredarchipelagotheywillseldombedistinguishable,fromtheabsenceofthosehugerollingwavesandbreakerswhichinthewideoceanthrowupabarrierofbrokencoralfarabovetheusualhigh-watermark,whileheretheyrarelyrisetothesurface。

Onreachingtheendofthesouthernisland,calledUta,wewerekeptwaitingtwodaysforawindthatwouldenableustopassovertothenextisland,Teor,andIbegantodespairofeverreachingKe,anddeterminedonreturning。Weleftwithasouthwind,whichsuddenlychangedtonorth-east,andinducedmetoturnagainsouthwardinthehopesthatthiswasthecommencementofafewdays\'favourableweather。WesailedonverywellinthedirectionofTeorforaboutanhour,afterwhichthewindshiftedtoWSW。,andweweredrivenmuchoutofourcourse,andatnightfallfoundourselvesintheopensea,andfulltenmilestoleewardofourdestination。Mymenwerenowallverymuchfrightened,forifwewentonwemightbea。weekatseainourlittleopenboat,ladenalmosttothewater\'sedge;orwemightdriftontothecoastofNewGuinea,inwhichcaseweshouldmostlikelyallbemurdered。Icouldnotdenytheseprobabilities,andalthoughIshowedthemthatwecouldnotgetbacktoourstarting-pointwiththewindasitwas,theyinsisteduponreturning。Weaccordinglyputabout,andfoundthatwecouldlaynonearertoUtathantoTeor;however,bygreatgoodluck,aboutteno\'clockwehituponalittlecoralisland,andlayunderitsleetillmorning,whenafavourablechangeofwindbroughtusbacktoUta,andbyevening(April18thwereachedourfirstanchorageinMatabello,whereIresolvedtostayafewdays,andthenreturntoGoram。ItwaywithmuchregretthatIgaveupmytriptoKeandtheinterveningislands,whichIhadlookedforwardtoaslikelytomakeupformydisappointmentinCeram,sincemyshortvisitonmyvoyagetoAruhadproducedmesomanyrareandbeautifulinsects。

ThenativesofMatabelloarealmostentirelyoccupiedinmakingcocoanutoil,whichtheyselltotheBugisandGoramtraders,whocarryittoBandaandAmboyna。Theruggedcoralrockseemsveryfavourabletothegrowthofthecocoa-nutpalm,whichaboundsoverthewholeislandtotheveryhighestpoints,andproducesfruitalltheyearround。Alongwithitaregreatnumbersofthearecaorbetel-nutpalm,thenutsofwhicharesliced,dried,andgroundintoapaste,whichismuchusedbythebetel-chewingMalaysandPapuans。A11thelittlechildrenhereevensuchascanjustrunalone,carriedbetweentheirlipsamassofthenasty-

lookingredpaste,whichisevenmoredisgustingthantoseethematthesameagesmokingcigars,whichisverycommonevenbeforetheyareweaned。Cocoa-nuts,sweetpotatoes,anoccasionalsagocake,andtherefusenutaftertheoilhasbeenextractedbyboiling,formthechiefsustenanceofthesepeople;andtheeffectofthispoorandunwholesomedietisseeninthefrequencyoferuptionsandscurfyskindiseases,andthenumeroussoresthatdisfigurethefacesofthechildren。

Thevillagesaresituatedonhighandruggedcoralpeaks,onlyaccessiblebysteepnarrowpaths,withladdersandbridgesoveryawningchasms。Theyarefilthywithrottenhusksandoilrefuse,andthehutsaredark,greasy,anddirtyintheextreme。Thepeoplearewretcheduglydirtysavages,clothedinunchangedrags,andlivinginthemostmiserablemanner,andaseverydropoffreshwaterhastobebroughtupfromthebeach,washingisneverthoughtof;yettheyareactuallywealthy,andhavethemeansofpurchasingallthenecessariesandluxuriesoflife。

Fowlsareabundant,andeggsweregivenmewheneverIvisitedthevillages,butthesearenevereaten,beinglookeduponaspetsorasmerchandise。Almostallofthewomenwearmassivegoldearrings,andineveryvillagetherearedozensofsmallbronzecannonlyingaboutontheground,althoughtheyhavecostontheaverageperhaps£10apiece。Thechiefmenofeachvillagecametovisitme,clothedinrobesofsilkandfloweredsatin,thoughtheirhousesandtheirdailyfarearenobetterthanthoseoftheetherinhabitants。Whatacontrastbetweenthesepeopleandsuchsavagesasthebesttribesofbill。DyaksinBorneo,ortheIndiansoftheUaupesinSouthAmerica,livingonthebanksofclearstreams,cleanintheirpersonsandtheirhouses,withabundanceofwholesomefood,andexhibitingitseffectinhealthyshinsandbeautyofformandfeature!Thereisinfactalmostasmuchdifference:betweenthevariousracesofsavageasofcivilizedpeoples,andwemaysafelyaffirmthatthebetterspecimensoftheformeraremuchsuperiortothelowerexamplesofthelatterclass。

OneofthefewluxuriesofMatabelloisthepalmwine;whichisthefermentedsapfromtheflowerstainsofthecocoa-net。Itisreallyaverymicedrink,morelikecyderthanbeer,thoughquiteasintoxicatingasthelatter。Youngcocoa-nutsarealsoveryabundant,sothatanywhereintheislanditisonlynecessarytogoafewyardstofindadeliciousbeveragebyclimbingupatreeforit。Itisthewateroftheyoungfruitthatisdrunk,beforethepulphashardened;itisthenmoreabundant,clear,andrefreshing,andthethincoatingofgelatinouspulpisthoughtatreatluxury。Thewateroffull-browncocoa-nutsisalwaysthrownawayasundrinkable,althoughitisdeliciousincomparisonwiththatoftheolddrynutswhichaloneweobtaininthiscountry。

Thecocoa-nutpulpIdidnotlikeatfirst;butfruitsaresoscarce,exceptatparticularseasons,thatonesoonlearnstoappreciateanythingofafruitynature。

ManypersonsinEuropeareundertheimpressionthatfruitsofdeliciousflavouraboundinthetropicalforests,andtheywillnodoubtbesurprisedtolearnthatthetrulywildfruitsofthisbrandandluxuriantarchipelago,thevegetationofwhichwillviewiththatofanypartoftheworld,areinalmosteveryislandinferiorinabundanceanddualitytothoseofBritain。Wildstrawberriesandraspberriesarefoundinsomeplaces,buttheyarcsuchpoortastelessthingsastobehardlywortheating,andthereisnothingtocomparewithourblackberriesandwhortleberries。Thekanary-nutmaybeconsideredequaltoahazel-nut,butIhavemetwithnothingelsesuperiortoourcrabs,oarhaws,beech-nuts,wildplums,andacorns;fruitswhichwouldbehighlyesteemedbythenativesoftheseislands,andwouldformanimportantpartoftheirsustenance。Allthefinetropicalfruitsareasmuchcultivatedproductionsasourapples,peaches,andplums,andtheirwildprototypes,whenfound,aregenerallyeithertastelessoruneatable。

ThepeopleofMatabello,likethoseofmostoftheMahometanvillagesofEastCeramandGoram,amusedmemuchbytheirstrangeideasconcerningtheRussianwar。TheybelievethattheRussianswerenotonlymostthoroughlybeatenbytheTurks,butwereabsolutelyconquered,andallconvertedtoIslamism!Andtheycanhardlybeconvincedthatsuchisnotthecase,andthathaditnotbeenfortheassistanceofFranceandEngland,thepoorSultanworldhavefaredill。Anotheroftheirmotionsis,thattheTurksarethelargestandstrongestpeopleintheworld——infactaraceofgiants;thattheyeatenormousquantitiesofmeat,andareamostferociousandirresistiblenation。Whencesuchstrangelyincorrectopinionscouldhavearisenitisdifficulttounderstand,unlesstheyarederivedfromArabpriests,orhadjisreturnedfromMecca,whomayhaveheardoftheancientprowessoftheTurkisharmieswhentheymadeallEuropetremble,andsupposethattheircharacterandwarlikecapacitymustbethesameatthepresenttime。

GORAM

Asteadysouth-eastwindhavingsetin,wereturnedtoManowolkoonthe25thofApril,andthedayaftercrossedovertoOndor,thechiefvillageofGoram。

Aroundthisislandextends,withfewinterruptions,anencirclingcoralreefaboutaquarterofamilefromtheshore,visibleasastripeofpalegreenwater,butonlyatverylowestebb-tidesshowinganyrockabovethesurface。Thereareseveraldeepentrancesthroughthisreef,andinsideitthereishoodanchorageinallweathers。Thelandrisesgraduallytoamoderateheight,andnumeroussmallstreamsdescendonallsides。Themereexistenceofthesestreamswouldprovethattheislandwasnotentirelycoralline,asinthatcaseallthewaterwouldsinkthroughtheporousrockasitdoesatManowolkoandMatabello;

butwehavemorepositiveproofinthepebblesandstonesoftheirbeds,whichexhibitavarietyofstratifiedcrystallinerocks。Aboutahundredyardsfromthebeachrisesawallofcoralrock,tenortwentyfeethigh,abovewhichisanundulatingsurfaceofruggedcoral,whichslopesdownwardtowardstheinterior,andthenafteraslightascentisboundedbyasecondwallofcoral。Similarwallsoccurhigherup,andcoralisfoundonthehighestpartoftheisland。

Thispeculiarstructureteachesusthatbeforethecoralwasformedlandexistedinthisspot;thatthislandsunkgraduallybeneaththewaters,butwithintervalsofrest,duringwhichencirclingreef\'swereformedarounditatdifferentelevations;

thatitthenrosetoaboveitspresentelevation,andisnowagainsinking。Weinferthis,becauseencirclingreefsareaproofofsubsidence;andiftheislandwereagainelevatedaboutahundredfeet,whatisnowthereefandtheshallowseawithinitwouldformawallofcoralrock,andanundulatingcorallineplain,exactlysimilartothosethatstillexistatvariousaltitudesuptothesummitoftheisland。Welearnalsothatthesechangeshavetakenplaceatacomparativelyrecentepoch,forthesurfaceofthecoralhasscarcelysufferedfromtheactionoftheweather,andhundredsofsea-shells,exactlyresemblingthosestillfounduponthebeach,andmanyofthemretainingtheirglossandeventheircolour,arescatteredoverthesurfaceoftheislandtonearitssummit。

WhethertheGoramgroupformedoriginallypartofNewGuineaorofCeramitisscarcelypossibletodetermine,anditsproductionswillthrowlittlelightuponthequestion,if,asI

suppose,theislandshavebeenentirelysubmergedwithintheepochofexistingspeciesofanimals,asinthatcaseitmustoweitspresentfaunaandfloratorecentimmigrationfromsurroundinglands;andwiththisviewitspovertyinspeciesverywellagrees。ItpossessesmuchincommonwithEastCeram,butatthesametimehasagooddealofresemblancetotheKeIslandsandBanda。Thefinepigeon,Carpophagaconcinna,inhabitsKe,Banda,11-Iatabello,andGoram,andisreplacedbyadistinctspecies,C。neglecta,inCeram。Theinsectsofthesefourislandshavealsoacommonfacies——factswhichseemtoindicatethatsomemoreextensivelandhasrecentlydisappearedfromtheareatheynowoccupy,andhassuppliedthemwithafewofitspeculiarproductions。

TheGorampeople(amongwhomIstayedamonth)arearaceoftraders。EveryyeartheyvisittheTenimber,Ke,andAruIslands,thewholenorth-westcoastofNewGuineafromOetanatatoSalwatty,andtheislandofWaigiouandMysol。TheyalsoextendtheirvoyagestoTidoreandTernate,aswellastoBandaandAmboyna,Theirprausareallmadebythatwonderfulraceofboatbuilders,theKe。islanders,whoannuallyturnoutsomehundredsofboats,largeandsmall,whichcanhardlybesurpassedforbeautyofformandgoodnessofworkmanship,Theytradechieflyintripang,themedicinalmussoibark,wildnutmegs,andtortoiseshell,whichtheyselltotheBugistradersatCeram-lautorAru,fewofthemcaringtotaketheirproductstoanyothermarket。Inotherrespectstheyarealazyrace,livingverypoorly,andmuchgiventoopiumsmoking。Theonlynativemanufacturesaresail-matting,coarsecottoncloth,andpandanus-

leafboxes,prettilystainedandornamentedwithshell-work。

IntheislandofGoram,onlyeightortenmileslong,thereareaboutadozenRajahs,scarcelybetteroffthantherestoftheinhabitants,andexercisingamerenominalsway,exceptwhenanyorderisreceivedfromtheDutchGovernment,when,beingbackedbyahigherpower,theyshowalittlemorestrictauthority。MyfriendtheRajahofAmmer(commonlycalledRajahofGoram)toldmethatafewyearsago,beforetheDutchhadinterferedintheaffairsoftheisland,thetradewasnotcarriedonsopeaceablyasatpresent,rivalprausoftenfightingwhenonthewaytothesamelocality,ortraffickinginthesamevillage。Nowsuchathingisneverthoughtof-oneofthegoodeffectsofthesuperintendenceofacivilizedgovernment。Disputesbetweenvillagesarestill,however,sometimessettledbyfighting,andI

onedaysawaboutfiftymen,carryinglonggunsandheavycartridge-belts,marchthroughthevillage。Theyhadcomefromtheothersideoftheislandonsomequestionoftrespassorboundary,andwerepreparedforwarifpeaceablenegotiationsshouldfail。

WhileatManowolkoIhadpurchasedfor100florins£9。)asmallprau,whichwasbroughtoverthenextday,asIwasinformeditwasmoreeasytohavethenecessaryalterationsmadeinGoram,whereseveralKeworkmenweresettled。

AssoonaswebegangettingmypraureadyIwasobligedtogiveupcollecting,asIfoundthatunlessIwasconstantlyonthespotmyselfverylittleworkwouldbeclone。AsIproposedmakingsomelongvoyagesinthisboat,Ideterminedtofititupconveniently,andwasobligedtodoalltheinsideworkmyself,assistedbymytwoAmboyneseboys。Ihadplentyofvisitors,surprisedtoseeawhitemanatwork,andmuchastonishedatthenovelarrangementsIwasmakinginoneoftheirnativevessels。

LuckilyIhadafewtoolsofmyown,includingasmallsawandsomechisels,andthesewerenowseverelytried,cuttingandfittingheavyiron-woodplanksfortheflooringandthepoststhatsupportthetriangularmast。BeingofthebestLondonmake,theystoodtheworkwell,andwithoutthemitwouldhavebeenimpossibleformetohavefinishedmyboatwithhalftheneatness,orindoublethetime。IhadaKeworkmantoputinnewribs,forwhichIboughtnailsofaBugistrader,at8d。apound。

Mygimletswere,however,toosmall;andhavingnoaugerswewereobligedtoborealltheholeswithhotirons,amosttediousandunsatisfactoryoperation。

Fivemenhadengagedtoworkattheprautillfinished,andthengowithmetoMysol,Waigiou,andTernate。Theirideasofworkwere,however,verydifferentfrommine,andIhadimmensedifficultywiththem;seldommorethantwoorthreecomingtogether,andahundredexcusesbeinggivenforworkingonlyhalfadaywhentheydidcome。Yettheywereconstantlybeggingadvancesofmoney,sayingtheyhadnothingtoeat。WhenIgaveitthemtheyweresuretostayawaythenextday,andwhenIrefusedanyfurtheradvancessomeofthemdeclinedworkinganymore。Astheboatapproachedcompletionmydifficultieswiththemenincreased。Theuncleofonehadcommencedawar,orsortoffactionfight,andwantedhisassistance;another\'swifewasill,andwouldnotlethimcome;athirdhadfeverandague,andpainsinhisheadandback;andafourthhadaninexorablecreditorwhowouldnotlethimgooutofhissight。Theyhadallreceivedamonth\'swagesinadvance;andthoughtheamountwasnotlarge,itwasnecessarytomakethempayitback,orIshouldgetagomenata11。Ithereforesentthevillageconstableaftertwo,andkeptthemincustodyaday,whentheyreturnedaboutthree-

fourthsofwhattheyowedme。Thesickmanalsopaid,andthesteersmanfoundasubstitutewhowaswillingtotakehisdebt,andreceiveonlythebalanceofhiswages。

AboutthistimewehadastrikingproofofthedangersofNewGuineatrading。Sixmenarrivedatthevillageinasmallboatalmoststarved,havingescapedoutoftwopraus,theremainderofwhosecrews(fourteeninnumber)hadbeenmurderedbythenativesofNewGuinea。Thepraushadleftthisvillageafewmonthsbefore,andamongthemurderedmenweretheRajah\'sson,andtherelationorslavesofmanyoftheinhabitants。Thecryoflamentationthatarosewhenthenewsarrivedwasmostdistressing。Ascoreofwomen,whohadlosthusbands,brothers,sons,ormoredistantrelatives,setupatoncethemostdismalshrieksandgroansandwailings,whichcontinuedatintervalstilllateatnight;andasthechiefhousesinthevillagewerecrowdedtogetherroundthatwhichIoccupied,oursituationwasanythingbutagreeable。

Itseemsthatthevillagewheretheattacktookplace(nearlyoppositethesmallislandofLakahia)isknowntobedangerous,andthevesselshadonlygonethereafewdaysbeforetobuysometripang。Thecrewwerelivingonshore,theprausbeinginasmallrivercloseby,andtheywereattackedandmurderedintheday-timewhilebargainingwiththePapuans。Thesixmenwhosurvivedwereonboardthepraus,andescapedbyatoncesettingintothesmallboatandrowingouttosea。

Thissouth-westpartofNewGuinea,knowntothenativetradersas"PapuaKowiyee"and"PapuaOnen,"isinhabitedbythemosttreacherousandbloodthirstytribes。Itisinthesedistrictsthatthecommandersandportionsofthecrewsofmanyoftheearlydiscoveryshipsweremurdered,andscarcelyayearnowpassesbutsomelivesarelost。TheGoramandCeramtradersarethemselvesgenerallyinoffensive;theyarewellacquaintedwiththecharacterofthesenatives,andarenotlikelytoprovokeanattackbyanyinsultsoropenattemptatrobberyorimposition。

Theyareaccustomedtovisitthesameplaceseveryyear,andthenativescanhavenofearofthem,asmaybeallegedinexcusefortheirattacksonEuropeans。InotherextensivedistrictsinhabitedbythesamePapuanraces,suchasMysol,Salwatty,Waigiou,andsomepartsoftheadjacentcoast,thepeoplehavetakenthefirststepincivilization,owingprobablytothesettlementoftradersofmixedbreedamongthem,andformanyyearsnosuchattackshavetakenplace。Onthesouth-westcoast,andinthelargeislandofJobie,however,thenativesareinaverybarbarouscondition,andtaleeveryopportunityofrobberyandmurder,——ahabitwhichisconfirmedbytheimpunitytheyexperience,owingtothevastextentofwildmountainandforestcountryforbiddingallpursuitorattemptatpunishment。Intheverysamevillage,fouryearsbefore,morethanfiftyGorammenweremurdered;andasthesesavagesobtainanimmensebootyintheprausandalltheirappurtenances,itistobefearedthatsuchattackswillcontinuetobemadeatintervalsaslongastradersvisitthesamespotsandattemptnoretaliation。

Punishmentcouldonlybeinflictedonthesepeoplebyveryarbitrarymeasures,suchasbyobtainingpossessionofsomeofthechiefsbystratagem,andrenderingthemresponsibleforthecaptureofthemurderersattheperiloftheirownheads。ButanythingofthiskindwouldbedonecontrarytothesystemadoptedbytheDutchGovernmentinitsdealingswithnatives。

GORAMTOWAHAIINCERAM。

Whenmyboatwasatlengthlaunchedandloaded,Igotmymentogether,andactuallysetsailthenextday(May27th),muchtotheastonishmentoftheGorampeople,towhomsuchpunctualitywasanovelty。Ihadacrewofthreemenandaboy,besidesmytwoAmboynalads;whichwassufficientforsailing,thoughrathertoofewifobligedtorowmuch。Thenextdaywasverywet,withsqualls,calms,andcontrarywinds,andwithsomedifficultywereachedKilwaru,themetropolisoftheBugistradersinthefarEast。AsIwantedtomakesomepurchases,Istayedheretwodays,andsenttwoofmyboxesofspecimensbyaMacassarprautobeforwardedtoTernate,thusrelievingmyselfofaconsiderableincumbrance。Iboughtknives,basins,andhandkerchiefsforbarter,whichwiththechoppers,cloth,andbeadsIhadbroughtwithme,madeaprettygoodassortment。Ialsoboughttwotowermusketstosatisfymycrew,whoinsistedonthenecessityofbeingarmedagainstattacksofpirates;andwithspicesandafewarticlesoffoodforthevoyagenearlymylastdoitwasexpended。

ThelittleislandofKilwaruisameresandbank,justlargeenoughtocontainasmallvillage,andsituatedbetweentheislandsofCeram-laut,andKissa——straitsaboutathirdofamilewideseparatingitfromeachofthem。Itissurroundedbycoralreefs,andoffersgoodanchorageinbothmonsoons。Thoughnotmorethanfiftyyardsacross,andnotelevatedmorethanthreeorfourfeetabovethehighesttides,ithaswellsofexcellentdrinkingwater——asingularphenomenon,whichwouldseemtoimplydeep-seatedsubterraneanchannelsconnectingitwithotherislands。Theseadvantages,withitssituationinthecentreofthePapuantradingdistrict,leadtoitsbeingsomuchfrequentedbytheBugistraders。HeretheGorammenbringtheproduceoftheirlittlevoyages,whichtheyexchangeforcloth,sagocakes,andopium;andtheinhabitantsofallthesurroundingislandsvisititwiththegameobject。ItistherendezvousofthepraustradingtovariouspartsofNewGuinea,whichhereassortanddrytheircargoes,andrefitforthevoyagehome。Tripangandmussoibarkarethemostbulkyarticlesofproducebroughthere,withwildnutmegs,tortoiseshell,pearls,andbirdsofParadise;insmallerquantities。ThevillagersofthemainlandofCerambringtheirsago,whichisthusdistributedtotheislandsfarthereast,whilericefromBaliandMacassarcanalsobepurchasedatamoderateprice。TheGorammencomeherefortheirsuppliesofopium,bothfortheirownconsumptionandforbarterinMysolandWaigiou,wheretheyhaveintroducedit,andwherethechiefsandwealthymenarepassionatelyfondofit。SchoonersfromBalicometobuyPapuanslaves,whilethesea-wanderingBugisarrivefromdistantSingaporeintheirlumberingpraus,bringingthencetheproduceoftheChinamen\'sworkshopsandKling\'sbazaar,aswellasoftheloomsofLancashireandMassachusetts。

OneoftheBugistraderswhohadarrivedafewdaysbeforefromMysol,broughtmenewsofmyassistantCharlesAllen,withwhomhewaswellacquainted,andwho,heassuredme;wasmakinglargecollectionsofbirdsandinsects,althoughhehadnotobtainedanybirdsofParadise;Silinta,wherehewasstaying,notbeingagoodplaceforthem。Thiswasonthewholesatisfactory,andI

wasanxioustoreachhimassoonaspossible。

LeavingKilwaruearlyinthemorningofJune1st,withastrongeastwindwedoubledthepointofCeramaboutnoon,theheavyseacausingmyprautorollabortagooddeal,tothedamageofourcrockery。Asbadweatherseemedcomingon,wegotinsidethereefsandanchoredoppositethevillageofWarns-warnstowaitforachange。

Thenightwasverysqually,andthoughinagoodharbourwerolledandjerkeduneasily;butinthemorningIhadgreatercauseforuneasinessinthediscoverythatourentireGoramcrewhaddecamped,takingwiththemalltheypossessedandalittlemore,andleavinguswithoutanysmallboatinwhichtoland。I

immediatelytoldmyAmboynamentoloadandfirethemusketsasasignalofdistress,whichwassoonansweredbythevillagechiefsendingoffaboat,whichtookmeonshore。Irequestedthatmessengersshouldbeimmediatelysenttotheneighbouringvillagesinquestofthefugitives,whichwaspromptlydone。Myprauwasbroughtintoasmallcreek,whereitcouldsecurelyrestinthemudatlowwater,andpartofahousewasgivenmeinwhichTcouldstayforawhile。Inowfoundmyprogressagainsuddenlychecked,justwhenIthoughtIhadovercomemychiefdifficulties。AsIhadtreatedmymenwiththegreatestkindness,andhadgiventhemalmosteverythingtheyhadaskedfor,IcanimputetheirrunningawayonlytotheirbeingtotallyunaccustomedtotherestraintofaEuropeanmaster,andtosomeundefineddreadofmyultimateintentionsregardingthem。Theoldestmanwasanopiumsmoker,andareputedthief,butIhadbeenobligedtotakehimatthelastmomentasasubstituteforanother。Ifeelsureitwashewhoinducedtheotherstorunaway,andastheyknewthecountrywell,andhadseveralhours\'

startofus,therewaslittlechanceofcatchingthem。

WewerehereinthegreatsagodistrictofEastCeramwhichsuppliesmostofthesurroundingislandswiththeirdailybread,andduringourweek\'sdelayIhadanopportunityofseeingthewholeprocessofmakingit,andobtainingsomeinterestingstatistics。Thesagotreeisapalm,thickerandlargerthanthecocoa-nuttree,althoughrarelysotall,andhavingimmensepinnatespinyleaves,whichcompletelycoverthetrunktillitismanyyearsold。Ithasacreepingroot-stemliketheNipapalm,andwhenabouttenorfifteenyearsofagesendsupanimmenseterminalspikeofflowers,afterwhichthetreedies。Itgrowsinswamps,orinswampyhollowsontherockyslopesofhills,whereitseemstothriveequallywellaswhenexposedtotheinfluxofsaltorbrackishwater。Themidribsoftheimmenseleavesformoneofthemostusefularticlesintheselands,supplyingtheplaceofbamboo,towhichformanypurposestheyaresuperior。

Theyaretwelveorfifteenfeetlong,and,whenveryfine,asthickinthelowerpartasaman\'sleg。Theyareverylight,consistingentirelyofafirmpithcoveredwithahardthinrindorbark。Entirehousesarebuiltofthese;theyformadmirableroofing-polesforthatch;splitandwell-supported,theydoforflooring;andwhenchosenofequalsize,andpeggedtogethersidebysidetofillupthepanelsofframedwoodenhorses,theyhaveaveryneatappearance,andmakebetterwallsandpartitionsthanboards,astheydonotshrink,requirenopaintorvarnish,andarenotaquartertheexpense。Whencarefullysplitandshavedsmooththeyareformedintolightboardswithpegsofthebarkitself,andarethefoundationoftheleaf-coveredboxesofGoram。Alltheinsect-boxesIusedintheMoluccaswerethusmadeatAmboyna,andwhencoveredwithstoutpaperinsideandout,arestrong,light,andsecuretheinsect-pinsremarkablywell。Theleafletofthesagofoldedandtiedsidebysideonthesmallermidribsformthe"atap"orthatchinuniversaluse,whiletheproductofthetrunkisthestaplefoodofsome=hundredthousandsofmen。

Whensagoistobemade,afull-growntreeisselectedjustbeforeitisgoingtoflower。Itiscutdownclosetotheground,theleavesandleafstalksclearedaway,andabroadstripofthebarktakenofftheuppersideofthetrunk。Thisexposesthepithymatter,whichisofarustycolournearthebottomofthetree,buthigheruppurewhite,aboutashardasadryapple,butwithwoodyfibrerunningthroughitaboutaquarterofaninchapart。Thispithiscutorbrokendownintoacoarsepowderbymeansofatoolconstructedforthepurpose——aclubofhardandheavywood,havingapieceofsharpquartzrockfirmlyimbeddedintoitsbluntend,andprojectingabouthalfaninch。Bysuccessiveblowsofthis,narrowstripsofthepitharecutaway,andfalldownintothecylinderformedbythebark。Proceedingsteadilyon,thewholetrunkisclearedout,leavingaskinnotmorethanhalfaninchinthickness。Thismaterialiscarriedaway(inbasketsmadeofthesheathingbasesoftheleaves)tothenearestwater,whereawashing-machineisputup,whichiscomposedalmostentirelyofthesagatreeitself。Thelargesheathingbasesoftheleavesformthetroughs,andthefibrouscoveringfromtheleaf-stalksoftheyoungcocoa-nutthestrainer。Waterispouredonthemassofpith,whichiskneadedandpressedagainstthestrainertillthestarchisalldissolvedandhaspassedthrough,whenthefibrousrefuseisthrownaway,andafreshbasketfulputinitsplace。Thewaterchargedwithsagostarchpassesontoatrough,withadepressioninthecentre,wherethesedimentisdeposited,thesurpluswatertricklingoffbyashallowoutlet。Whenthetroughisnearlyfull,themassofstarch,whichhasaslightreddishtinge,ismadeintocylindersofaboutthirtypounds\'weight,andneatlycoveredwithsagoleaves,andinthisstateissoldasrawsago。

Boiledwithwaterthisformsathickglutinousmass,witharatherastringenttaste,andiseatenwithsalt,limes,andchilies。Sago-breadismadeinlargequantities,bybakingitintocakesinasmallclayovencontainingsixoreightslitssidebyside,eachaboutthree-quartersofaninchwide,andsixoreightinchessquare。Therawsagoisbrokenup,driedinthesun,powdered,andfinelysifted。Theovenisheatedoveraclearfireofembers,andislightlyfilledwiththesago-powder。Theopeningsarethencoveredwithaflatpieceofsagobark,andinaboutfiveminutesthecakesareturnedoutsufficientlybaked。

Thehotcakesareverynicewithbutter,andwhenmadewiththeadditionofalittlesugarandgratedcocoa-nutarequiteadelicacy。Theyaresoft,andsomethinglikecorn-flourcakes,butleaveaslightcharacteristicflavourwhichislostintherefinedsagoweuseinthiscountry。Whennotwantedforimmediateuse,theyaredriedforseveraldaysinthesun,andtiedupinbundlesoftwenty。Theywillthenkeepforyears;theyareveryhard,andveryroughanddry,butthepeopleareusedtothemfrominfancy,andlittlechildrenmaybeseengnawingatthemascontentedlyasourswiththeirbread-and-butter。Ifdippedinwaterandthentoasted,theybecomealmostasgoodaswhenfreshbaked;andthustreatedtheyweremydailysubstituteforbreadwithmycoffee。Soakedandboiledtheymakeaverygoodpuddingorvegetable,andservedwelltoeconomizeourrice,whichissometimesdifficulttogetsofareast。

Itistrulyanextraordinarysighttowitnessawholetree-trunk,perhapstwentyfeetlongandfourorfiveincircumference,convertedintofoodwithsolittlelabourandpreparation。A

good-sizedtreewillproducethirtytomansorbundlesofthirtypoundseach,andeachtomanwillmakesixtycakesofthreetothepound。Twoofthesecakesareasmuchasamancaneatatonemeal,andfiveareconsideredafullday\'sallowance;sothat,reckoningatreetoproduce1,800cakes,weighing600pounds,itwillsupplyamanwithfoodforawholeyear。Thelabourtoproducethisisverymoderate。Twomenwillfinishatreeinfivedays,andtwowomenwillbakethewholeintocakesinfivedaysmore;buttherawsagowillkeepverywell,andcanbebakedaswanted,sothatwemayestimatethatintendaysamanmayproducefoodforthewholeyear。Thisisonthesuppositionthathepossessessagotreesofhisown,fortheyarenowallprivateproperty。Ifhedoesnot,hehastopayaboutsevenandsixpenceforone;andaslabourhereisfivepenceaday,thetotalcostofayear\'sfoodforonemanisabouttwelveshillings。Theeffectofthischeapnessoffoodisdecidedlyprejudicial,fortheinhabitantsofthesagocountriesareneversowelloffasthosewherericeiscultivated。Manyofthepeopleherehaveneithervegetablesnorfruit,butlivealmostentirelyonsagoandalittlefish。Havingfewoccupationsathome,theywanderaboutonpettytradingorfishingexpeditionstotheneighbouringislands;andasfarasthecomfortsoflifeareconcerned,aremuchinferiortothewildhill-DyaksofBorneo,ortomanyofthemorebarbaroustribesoftheArchipelago。

ThecountryroundWarus-warusislowandswampy,andowingtotheabsenceofcultivationtherewerescarcelyanypathsleadingintotheforest。Iwasthereforeunabletocollectmuchduringmyenforcedstay,andfoundnorarebirdsorinsectstoimprovemyopinionofCeramasacollectingground。Findingitquiteimpossibletogetmenheretoaccompanymeonthewholevoyage,I

wasobligedtobecontentwithacrewtotakemeasfarasWahai,onthemiddleofthenorthcoastofCeram,andthechiefDutchstationintheisland。Thejourneytookusfivedays,owingtocalmsandlightwinds,andnoincidentofanyinterestoccurredonit,nordidIobtainatourstoppingplacesasingleadditiontomycollectionsworthnaming。AtWahai,whichIreachedonthe15thofJune,IwashospitablyreceivedbytheCommandantandmyoldfriendHerrRosenberg,whowasnowonanofficialvisithere。

Helentmesomemoneytopaymymen,andIwasluckyenoughtoobtainthreeotherswillingtomakethevoyagewithmetoTernate,andonemorewhowastoreturnfromMysol。OneofmyAmboynalads,however,leftme,sothatIwasstillrathershortofhands。

IfoundherealetterfromCharlesAllen,whowasatSilintainMysol,anxiouslyexpectingme,ashewasoutofriceandothernecessaries,andwasshortofinsect-pins。Hewasalsoill,andifIdidnotsooncomewouldreturntoWahai。

AsmyvoyagefromthisplacetoWaigiouwasamongislandsinhabitedbythePapuanrace,andwasaneventfulanddisastrousone,IwillnarrateitschiefincidentsinaseparatechapterinthatdivisionofmyworkdevotedtothePapuanIslands。InowhavetopassoverayearspentinWaigiouandTimor,inordertodescribemyvisittotheislandofBouru,whichconcludedmyexplorationsoftheMoluccas。

CHAPTERXXVI。

BOURU。

MAYANDJUNE1861。

IHADlongwishedtovisitthelargeislandofBouru,whichliesduewestofCeram,andofwhichscarcelyanythingappearedtobeknowntonaturalists,exceptthatitcontainedababirusaverylikethatofCelebes。IthereforemadearrangementsforstayingtheretwomonthsafterleavingTimorDelliin1861。ThisIcouldconvenientlydobymeansoftheDutchmail-steamers,whichmakeamonthlyroundoftheMoluccas。

WearrivedattheharbourofCajelionthe4thofMay;agunwasfired,theCommandantofthefortcamealongsideinanativeboattoreceivethepost-packet,andtookmeandmybaggageonshore,thesteamergoingoffagainwithoutcomingtoananchor。WewenttothehorseoftheOpzeiner,oroverseer,anativeofAmboyna——

BourubeingtoopooraplacetodeserveevenanAssistantResident;yettheappearanceofthevillagewasveryfarsuperiortothatofDelli,whichpossesses"HisExcellencytheGovernor,"

andthelittlefort,inperfectorder,surroundedbyneatbrass-

plotsandstraightwalks,althoughmannedbyonlyadozenJavanesesoldierswithanAdjutantforcommander,wasaverySebastopolincomparisonwiththemiserablemudenclosureatDelli,withitsnumerousstaffofLieutenants,Captain,andMajor。Yetthis,aswellasmostofthefortsintheMoluccas,wasoriginallybuiltbythePortuguesethemselves。Oh!Lusitania,howartthoufallen!

WhiletheOpzeinerwasreadinghisletters,Itookawalkroundthevillagewithaguideinsearchofahorse。Thewholeplacewasdreadfullydampandmuddy,beingbuiltinaswampwithnotaspotofgroundraisedafootaboveit,andsurroundedbyswampsoneveryside。Thehousesweremostlywellbuilt,ofwoodenframeworkfilledinwithgaba-gaba(leaf-stemsofthesago-palm),butastheyhadnowhitewash,andthefloorswereofbareblackearthliketheroads,andgenerallyonthesamelevel,theywereextremelydampandgloomy。AtlengthIfoundonewiththefloorraisedaboutafoot,andsucceededinmakingabargainwiththeownertoturnoutimmediately,sothatbynightIhadinstalledmyselfcomfortably。Thechairsandtableswereleftforme;andasthewholeoftheremainingfurnitureinthehouseconsistedofalittlecrockeryandafewclothes-boxes,itwasnotmuchtroublefortheownerstomoveintothehouseofsomerelatives,andthusobtainafewsilverrupeesveryeasily。Everyfootofgroundbetweenthehomesthroughoutthevillageiscrammedwithfruittrees,sothatthesunandairhavenochanceofpenetrating。Thismustbeverycoolandpleasantinthedryseason,butmakesitdampandunhealthyatothertimesoftheyear。UnfortunatelyIhadcometwomonthstoosoon,fortherainswerenotyetover,andmudandwaterweretheprominentfeaturesofthecountry。

Aboutamilebehindandtotheeastofthevillagethehillscommence,buttheyareverybarren,beingcoveredwithscantycoarsegrassandscatteredtreesoftheMelaleucacajuputi,fromtheleavesofwhichthecelebratedcajeputoilismade。Suchdistrictsareabsolutelydestituteofinterestforthezoologist。

Afewmilesfurtheronrosehighermountains,apparentlywellcoveredwithforest,buttheywereentirelyuninhabitedandtrackless,andpracticallyinaccessibletoatravellerwithlimitedtimeandmeans。Itbecameevident,therefore,thatImustleaveCajeliforsomebettercollectingground,andfindingamanwhowasgoingafewmileseastwardtoavillageonthecoastwherehesaidtherewerehillsandforest,IsentmyboyAliwithhimtoexploreandreportonthecapabilitiesofthedistrict。AtthesametimeIarrangedtogomyselfonalittleexcursionupariverwhichflowsintothebayaboutfivemilesnorthofthetown,toavillageoftheAlfuros,orindigenes,whereIthoughtImightperhapsfindagoodcollectingground。

TheRajahofCajeli,agood-temperedoldman,offeredtoaccompanyme,asthevillagewasunderhisgovernment;andwestartedonemorningearly,inalongnarrowboatwitheightrowers。Inabouttwohoursweenteredtheriver,andcommencedourinlandjourneyagainstaverypowerfulcurrent。Thestreamwasaboutahundredyardswide,andwasgenerallyborderedwithhighgrass,andoccasionallybushesandpalm-trees。Thecountryroundwasflatandmoreorlessswampy,withscatteredtreesandshrubs。Ateverybendwecrossedtherivertoavoidthestrengthofthecurrent,andarrivedatourlanding-placeaboutfouro\'clockinatorrentofrain。Herewewaitedforanhour,crouchingunderaleakymattilltheAlfurosarrivedwhohadbeensentforfromthevillagetocarrymybaggage,whenwesetoffalongapathofwhoseextrememuddinessIhadbeenwarnedbeforestarting。

Iturnedupmytrousersashighaspossible,graspedastoatsticktopreventawkwardfalls,andthenboldlyplungedintothefirstmud-hole,whichwasimmediatelysucceededbyanotherandanother。Themarlormudandwaterwasknee-deepwithlittleintervalsoffirmergroundbetween,makingprogressionexceedinglydifficult。Thepathwasborderedwithhighrigidgrass,brewingindenseclumpsseparatedbywater,sothatnothingwastobegainedbyleavingthebeatentrack,andwewereobligedtogoflounderingon,neverknowingwhereourfeetwouldrest,asthemudwasnowafewinches,nowtwofeetdeep,andthebottomveryuneven,sothatthefootsliddowntothelowestpart,andmadeitdifficulttokeepone\'sbalance。Onestepwouldbeuponaconcealedstickorlog,almostdislocatingtheankle,whilethenextwouldplungeintosoftmudabovetheknee。Itrainedalltheway,andthelonggrass,sixfeethigh,metoverthepath;sothatwecouldnotseeastepofthewayahead,andreceivedadoubledrenching。Beforewegottothevillageitwasdark,andwehadtocrossoverasmallbutdeepandswollenstreambyanarrowlogofwood,whichwasmorethanafootunderwater。Therewasaslendershakingstickforahandrail,anditwasnervousworkfeelinginthedarkintherushingwaterforasafeplaceonwhichtoplacetheadvancedfoot。Afterauhourofthismostdisagreeableandfatiguingwalkwereachedthevillage,followedbythemenwithourguns,ammunition,boxes,andbeddingallmoreorlesssoaked。Weconsoledourselveswithsomehotteaandcoldfowl,andwentearlytobed。

Thenextmorningwasclearandfine,andIsetoutsoonaftersunrisetoexploretheneighbourhood。Thevillagehadevidentlybeennewlyformed,andconsistedofasinglestraightstreetofverymiserablehutstotallydeficientineverycomfort,andasbareandcheerlessinsideasout。Itwassituatedonalittleelevatedpatchofcoarsegravellysoil,coveredwiththeusualhighrigidgrass,whichcameupclosetothebacksofthehouses。

Atashortdistanceinseveraldirectionswerepatchesofforest,butallonlowandswampyground。ImadeoneattemptalongtheonlypathIcouldfind,butsooncameuponadeepmud-hole,andfoundthatImustwalkbarefootifatall;soIreturnedanddeferredfurtherexplorationtillafterbreakfast。Ithenwentonintothejungleandfoundpatchesofsago-palmsandalowforestvegetation,butthepathswereeverywherefullofmud-holes,andintersectedbymuddystreamsandtractsofswamp,sothatwalkingwasnotpleasurable,andtoomuchattentiontoone\'sstepswasnotfavourabletoinsectcatching,whichrequiresaboveeverythingfreedomofmotion。Ishotafewbirds,andcaughtafewbutterflies,butallwerethesameasIhadalreadyobtainedaboutCajeli。

OnmyreturntothevillageIwastoldthatthesamekindofgroundextendedformanymilesineverydirection,andIatoncedecidedthatWayapowasnotasuitableplacetostayat。Thenextmorningearlywewadedbackagainthroughthemudandlongwetgrasstoourboat,andbymid-dayreachedCajeli,whereIwaitedAli\'sreturntodecideonmyfuturemovements。Hecamethefollowingday,andgaveaverybadaccountofPelah,wherehehadbeen。Therewasalittlebrushandtreesalongthebeach,andhillsinlandcoveredwithhighgrassandcajuputitrees——mydreadandabhorrence。Oninquiringwhocouldgivemetrustworthyinformation,IwasreferredtotheLieutenantoftheBurghers,whohadtravelledallroundtheisland,andwasaveryintelligentfellow。IaskedhimtotellmeifheknewofanypartofBouruwheretherewasno"kusu-kusu,"asthecoarsegrassofthecountryiscalled。Heassuredmethatagooddealofthesouthcoastwasforestland,whilealongthenorthwasalmostentirelyswampandgrassyhills。Afterminuteinquiries,IfoundthattheforestcountrycommencedataplacecalledWaypoti,onlyafewmilesbeyondPelah,butthat,asthecoastbeyondthatplacewasexposedtotheeastmonsoonanddangerousforpraus,itwasnecessarytowalk。IimmediatelywenttotheOpzeiner,andhecalledtheRajah。Wehadaconsultation,andarrangedforaboattotakemethenexteveningbutone,toPelah,whenceIwastoproceedonfoot,theOrang-kayagoingthedaybeforetocalltheAlfurostocarrymybaggage。

Thejourneywasmadeasarranged,andonMay19thwearrivedatWaypoti,havingwalkedabouttenmilesalongthebeach,andthroughstonyforestborderingthesea,withoccasionalplungesofamileortwointotheinterior。Wefoundnovillage,butscatteredhousesandplantations,withhillycountryprettywellcoveredwithforest,andlookingratherpromising。Alowhutwithaveryrottenroof,showingtheskythroughinseveralplaces,wastheonlyoneIcouldobtain。Luckilyitdidnotrainthatnight,andthenextdaywepulleddownsomeofthewallstorepairtheroof,whichwasofimmediateimportance,especiallyoverourbedsandtable。

Abouthalfamilefromthehousewasafinemountainstream,runningswiftlyoverabedofrocksandpebbles,andbeyondthiswasahillcoveredwithfineforest。BycarefullypickingmywayIcouldwadeacrossthisriverwithoutgettingmuchabovemyknees,althoughIwouldsometimesslipoffarockandgointoaholeuptomywaist,andabouttwiceaweekIwentacrossitinordertoexploretheforest。Unfortunatelytherewerenopathshereofanyextent,anditdidnotproveveryproductiveeitherininsectsorbirds。ToaddtomydifficultiesIhadstupidlyleftmyonlypairofstronghootsonboardthesteamer,andmyotherswerebythistimealldroppingtopieces,sothatIwasobligedtowalkaboutbarefooted,andinconstantfearofhurtingmyfeet,andcausingawoundwhichmightlaymeupforweeks,ashadhappenedinBorneo,Are,andDorey。Althoughtherewerenumerousplantationsofmaizeandplantains,therewerenonewclearings;andaswithouttheseitisalmostimpossibletofindmanyofthebestkindsofinsects,Ideterminedtomakeonemyself,andwithmuchdifficultyengagedtwomentoclearapatchofforest,fromwhichIhopedtoobtainmanyfinebeetlesbeforeIleft。

Duringthewholeofmystay,however,insectsneverbecameplentiful。Myclearingproducedmeafewfine,longicornsandBuprestidae,differentfromanyIhadbeforeseen,togetherwithseveraloftheAmboynaspecies,butbynomeanssonumerousor,sobeautifulasIhadfoundinthatsmallisland。Forexample,I

collectedonly210differentkindsofbeetlesduringmytwomonths\'stayatBourn,whileinthreeweeksatAmboyna,in1857,Ifoundmorethan300species:OneofthefinestinsectsfoundatBouruwasalargeCerambyx,ofadeepshiningchestnutcolour,andwithverylongantennae。Itvariedgreatlyinsize,thelargestspecimensbeingthreeincheslong,whilethesmallestwereonlyaninch,theantennavaryingfromoneandahalftofiveinches。

OnedaymyboyAlicamehomewithastoryofabigsnake。Hewaswalkingthroughsomehighgrass,andsteppedonsomethingwhichhetookforasmallfallentree,butitfeltcoldandyieldingtohisfeet,andfartotherightandlefttherewasawavingandrustlingoftheherbage。Hejumpedbackinaffrightandpreparedtoshoot,butcouldnotgetagoodviesofthecreature,anditpassedaway,hesaid,likeatreebeingdraggedalongthroughthegrass。Asheleadseveraltimesalreadyshotlargesnakes,whichhedeclaredwereallasnothingcomparedwiththis,Iaminclinedtobelieveitmustreallyhavebeenamonster。Suchcreaturesareratherplentifulhere,foramanlivingclosebyshowedmeonhisthighthemarkswherehebadbeenseizedbyoneclosetohishouse。Itwasbigenoughtotaketheman\'sthighinitsmouth,andhewouldprobablyhavebeenkilledanddevouredbyithadnothiscriesbroughtouthisneighbours,whodestroyeditwiththeirchoppers。AsfarasIcouldmakeoutitwasabouttwentyfeetlong,butAli\'swasprobablymuchlarger。

Itsometimesamusesmetoobservehow,afewdaysafterIhavetakenpossessionofit,anativehutseemsquiteacomfortablehome。MyhouseatWaypotiwasabareshed,withalargebambooplatformatoneside。Atoneendofthisplatform,whichwaselevatedaboutthreefeet,Ifixedupmymosquitocurtain,andpartlyencloseditwithalargeScotchplaid,makingacomfortablelittlesleepingapartment。Iputuparudetableonlegsburiedintheearthenfloor,andhadmycomfortablerattan-

chairforaseat。Alineacrossonecornercarriedmydaily-

washedcottonclothing,andonabambooshelfwasarrangedmysmallstockofcrockeryandhardware:Boxeswererangedagainstthethatchwalls,andhangingshelves,topreservemycollectionsfromantswhiledrying,weresuspendedbothwithoutandwithinthehouse。Onmytablelaybooks,penknives,scissors,pliers,andpins,withinsectandbirdlabels,allofwhichwereunsolvedmysteriestothenativemind。

Mostofthepeopleherehadneverseenapin,andthebetterinformedtookaprideinteachingtheirmoreignorantcompanionsthepeculiaritiesandusesofthatstrangeEuropeanproduction——aneedlewithahead,butnoeye!Evenpaper,whichwethrowawayhourlyasrubbish,wastothemacuriosity;andIoftensawthempickinguplittlescrapswhichhadbeensweptoutofthehouse,andcarefullyputtingthemawayintheirbetel-pouch。ThenwhenI

tookmymorningcoffeeandeveningtea,howmanywerethestrangethingsdisplayedtothem!Teapot,teacups,teaspoons,wereallmoreorlesscuriousintheireyes;tea,sugar,biscuit,andbutter,werearticlesofhumanconsumptionseenbymanyofthemforthefirsttime。Oneasksifthatwhitishpowderis"gulapassir"(sand-sugar),socalledtodistinguishitfromthecoarselumppalm-sugarormolassesofnativemanufacture;andthebiscuitisconsideredasortofEuropeansago-cake,whichtheinhabitantsofthoseremoteregionsareobligedtouseintheabsenceofthegenuinearticle。Mypursuit,wereofcourseutterlybeyondtheircomprehension。TheycontinuallyaskedmewhatwhitepeopledidwiththebirdsandinsectsItoolssomuchcaretopreserve。IfIonlykeptwhatwasbeautiful,theymightperhapscomprehendit;buttoseeantsandfilesandsmalluglyinsectsputawaysocarefullywasagreatpuzzletothem,andtheywereconvincedthattheremustbesomemedicalormagicaluseforthemwhichIkeptaprofoundsecret。ThesepeoplewereinfactascompletelyunacquaintedwithcivilizedlifeastheIndiansoftheRockyMountains,orthesavagesofCentralAfrica——

yetasteamship,thathighesttriumphofhumaningenuity,withitslittlefloatingepitomeofEuropeancivilization,touchesmonthlyatCajeli,twentymilesoff;whileatAmboyna,onlysixtymilesdistant,aEuropeanpopulationandgovernmenthavebeenestablishedformorethanthreehundredyears。

HavingseenagoodmanyofthenativesofBourufromdifferentvillages,andfromdistantpartsoftheisland,Ifeelconvincedthattheyconsistoftwodistinctracesnowpartiallyamalgamated。ThelargerportionareMalaysoftheCelebestype,oftenexactlysimilartotheTomórepeopleofEastCelebes,whomIfoundsettledinBatchian;whileothersaltogetherresembletheAlfurosofCeram。

Theinfluxoftworacescaneasilybeaccountedfor。TheSulaIslands,whicharecloselyconnectedwithEastCelebes,approachtowithinfortymilesofthenorthcoastofBouru,whiletheislandofManipaoffersaneasypointofdepartureforthepeopleofCeram。IwasconfirmedinthisviewbyfindingthatthelanguagesofBourupossesseddistinctresemblancestothatofSula,aswellastothoseofCeram。

SoonafterwehadarrivedatWaypoti,AlihadseenabeautifullittlebirdofthegenusPitta,whichIwasveryanxioustoobtain,asinalmosteveryislandthespeciesaredifferent,andnonewereyetknownfromBourn。Heandmyotherhuntercontinuedtoseeittwoorthreetimesaweek,andtohearitspeculiarnotemuchoftener,butcouldnevergetaspecimen,owingtoitsalwaysfrequentingthemostdensethornythickets,whereonlyhastyglimpsesofitcouldbeobtained,andatsoshortadistancethatitwouldbedifficulttoavoidblowingthebirdtopieces。Aliwasverymuchannoyedthathecouldnotgetaspecimenofthisbird,ingoingafterwhichhehadalreadyseverely,woundedhisfeetwiththorns;andwhenwehadonlytwodaysmoretostay,hewentofhisownaccordoneeveningtosleepatalittlebutintheforestsomemilesoff,inordertohavealasttryforitatdaybreak,whenmanybirdscomeouttofeed,andareveryintentontheirmorningmeal。Thenexteveninghebroughtmehometwospecimens,onewiththeheadblowncompletelyoff,andotherwisetoomuchinjuredtopreserve,theotherinverygoodorder,andwhichIatoncesawtobeanewspecies,verylikethePittacelebensis,butornamentedwithasquarepatchofbrightredonthenapeoftheneck。

ThenextdayaftersecuringthisprizewereturnedtoCajeli,andpackingupmycollectionsleftBourubythesteamer。Duringourtwodays\'stayatTernate,ItookonboardwhatbaggageIhadleftthere,andbadeadieutoallmyfriends。WethencrossedovertoMenado,onourwaytoMacassarandJava,andIfinallyquittedtheMoluccas,amongwhoseluxuriantandbeautifulislandsIhadwanderedformorethanthreeyears。

MycollectionsinBouru,thoughnotextensive,wereofconsiderableinterest;foroutofsixty-sixspeciesofbirdswhichIcollectedthere,nolessthanseventeenwerenew,orhadnotbeenpreviouslyfoundinanyislandoftheMoluccas。Amongtheseweretwokingfishers,TanysipteraacisandCeyxCajeli;abeautifulsunbird,Nectarinesproserpina;ahandsomelittleblackandwhiteflycatcher,Monarchaloricata,whoseswellingthroatwasbeautifullyscaledwithmetallicblue;andseveraloflessinterest。Ialsoobtainedaskullofthebabirusa,onespecimenofwhichwaskilledbynativehuntersduringmyresidenceatCajeli。

CHAPTERXXVII。

THENATURALHISTORYOFTHEMOLUCCAS。

THEMoluccasconsistofthreelargeislands,Gilolo,Ceram,andBouru,thetwoformerbeingeachabouttwohundredmileslong;

andagreatnumberofsmallerislesandislets,themostimportantofwhichareBatchian,Morty,Obi,Ke,Timor-Laut,andAmboyna;andamongthesmallerones,Ternate,Tidore,Kaióa,andBanda。Theyoccupyaspaceoftendegreesoflatitudebyeightoflongitude,andtheyareconnectedbygroupsofsmallisletstoNewGuineaontheeast,thePhilippinesonthenorth,Celebesonthewest,andTimoronthesouth。Itwillbeaswelltobearinmindthesemainfeaturesofextentandgeographicalposition,whilewesurveytheiranimalproductionsanddiscusstheirrelationstothecountrieswhichsurroundthemoneverysideinalmostequalproximity。

WewillfirstconsidertheMammaliaorwarm-bloodedquadrupeds,whichpresentuswithsomesingularanomalies。Thelandmammalsareexceedinglyfewinnumber,onlytenbeingyetknownfromtheentiregroup。Thebatsoraerialmammals,ontheotherhand,arenumerous——notlessthantwenty-fivespeciesbeingalreadyknown。

ButeventhisexceedingpovertyofterrestrialmammalsdoesnotatallrepresenttherealpovertyoftheMoluccasinthisclassofanimals;for,asweshallsoonsee,thereisgoodreasontobelievethatseveralofthespecieshavebeenintroducedbyman,eitherpurposelyorbyaccident。

Theonlyquadrumanousanimalinthegroupisthecuriousbaboon-

monkey,Cynopithecusnigrescens,alreadydescribedasbeingoneofthecharacteristicanimalsofCelebes。ThisisfoundonlyintheislandofBatchian;anditseemssomuchoutofplacethereasitisdifficulttoimaginehowitcouldhavereachedtheislandbyanynaturalmeansofdispersal,andyetnothavepassedbythesamemeansoverthenarrowstraittoGilolo——thatitseemsmorelikelytohaveoriginatedfromsomeindividualswhichhadescapedfromconfinement,theseandsimilaranimalsbeingoftenkeptaspetsbytheMalays,andcarriedaboutintheirpraus。

OfallthecarnivorousanimalsoftheArchipelagotheonlyonefoundintheMoluccasistheViverratangalunga,whichinhabitsbothBatchianandBouru,andprobablycomeoftheotherislands。

Iaminclinedtothinkthatthisalsomayhavebeenintroducedaccidentally,foritisoftenmadecaptivebytheMalays,whoprocurecivetfromit,anditisananimalveryrestlessanduntameable,andthereforelikelytoescape。ThisviewisrenderedstillmoreprobablebywhatAntoniodeMorgatellsuswasthecustominthePhilippinesin1602。Hesaysthat"thenativesofMindanaocarryaboutcivet-catsincages,andsellthemintheislands;andtheytakethecivetfromthem,andletthemgoagain。"ThesamespeciesiscommoninthePhilippinesandinallthelargeislandsoftheIndo-Malayregion。

TheonlyMoluccanruminantisadeer,whichwasoncesupposedtobeadistinctspecies,butisnowgenerallyconsideredtobeaslightvarietyoftheRusahippelaphusofJava。Deerareoftentamedandpetted,andtheirfleshissomuchesteemedbyallMalays,thatitisverynaturaltheyshouldendeavourtointroducethemintotheremoteislandsinwhichtheysettled,andwhoseluxuriantforestsseemsowelladaptedfortheirsubsistence。

ThestrangebabirusaofCelebesisalsofoundinBouru;butinnootherMoluccanisland,anditissomewhatdifficulttoimaginehowitgotthere。ItistruethatthereissomeapproximationbetweenthebirdsoftheSulaIslands(wherethebabirusaisalsofound)andthoseofBouru,whichseemstoindicatethattheseislandshaverecentlybeenclosertogether,orthatsomeinterveninglandhasdisappeared。AtthistimethebabirusamayhaveenteredBouru,sinceitprobablyswimsaswellasitsalliesthepigs。ThesearespreadallovertheArchipelago,eventoseveralofthesmallerislands,andinmanycasesthespeciesarepeculiar。Itisevident,therefore,thattheyhavesomenaturalmeansofdispersal。Thereisapopularideathatpigscannotswim,butSirCharlesLyellhasshownthatthisisamistake。Inhis"PrinciplesofGeology"(10thEdit。vol。iip。355)headducesevidencetoshowthatpigshaveswummanymilesatsea,andareabletoswimwithgreateaseandswiftness。IhavemyselfseenawildpigswimmingacrossthearmoftheseathatseparatesSingaporefromthePeninsulaofMalacca,andwethushaveexplainedthecuriousfact,thatofallthelargemammalsoftheIndianregion,pigsaloneextendbeyondtheMoluccasandasfarasNewGuinea,althoughitissomewhatcuriousthattheyhavenotfoundtheirwaytoAustralia。

Thelittleshrew,Sorexmyosurus,whichiscommoninSumatra,Borneo,andJava,isalsofoundinthelargerislandsoftheMoluccas,towhichitmayhavebeenaccidentallyconveyedinnativepraus。

ThiscompletesthelistoftheplacentalmammalswhicharesocharacteristicoftheIndianregion;andweseethat,withthesingleexceptionofthepig,allmayveryprobablyhavebeenintroducedbyman,sinceallexceptthepigareofspeciesidenticalwiththosenowaboundinginthegreatMalayislands,orinCelebes。

ThefourremainingmammalsareMarsupials,anorderoftheclassMammalia,whichisverycharacteristicoftheAustralianfauna;

andtheseareprobablytruenativesoftheMoluccas,sincetheyareeitherofpeculiarspecies,oriffoundelsewherearenativesonlyofNewGuineaorNorthAustralia。Thefirstisthesmallflyingopossum,Belideusariel,abeautifullittleanimal,exactlylineasmallflyingsquirrelinappearance,butbelongingtothemarsupialorder。TheotherthreearespeciesofthecuriousgenusCuscus,whichispeculiartotheAustro-Malayanregion。Theseareopossum-likeanimals,withalongprehensiletail,ofwhichtheterminalhalfisgenerallybare。Theyhavesmallheads,largeeyes,andadensecoveringofwoollyfur,whichisoftenpurewhitewithirregularblackspotsorblotches,orsometimesashybrownwithorwithoutwhitespots。Theyliveintrees,feedingupontheleaves,ofwhichtheydevourlargequantities,theymoveaboutslowly,andaredifficulttokill,owingtothethicknessoftheirfur,andtheirtenacityoflife。

Aheavychargeofshotwilloftenlodgeintheslainanddothemnoharm,andevenbreakingthespineorpiercingthebrainwillnotkillthemforsomehours。Thenativeseverywhereeattheirflesh,andastheirmotionsaresoslow,easilycatchthembyclimbing;sothatitiswonderfultheyhavenotbeenexterminated。Itmaybe,however,thattheirdensewoollyfurprotectsthemfrombirdsofprey,andtheislandstheyliveinaretoothinlyinhabitedformantobeabletoexterminatethem。

ThefigurerepresentsCuscusornatus,anewspeciesdiscoveredbymeinBatchian,andwhichalsoinhabitsTernate。ItispeculiartotheMoluccas,whilethetwootherspecieswhichinhabitCeramarefoundalsoinNewGuineaandWaigiou。

InplaceoftheexcessivepovertyofmammalswhichcharacterisestheMoluccas,wehaveaveryrichdisplayofthefeatheredtribes。ThenumberofspeciesofbirdsatpresentknownfromthevariousislandsoftheMolluccangroupis265,butoftheseonly70belongtotheusuallyabundanttribesofthewadersandswimmers,indicatingthattheseareveryimperfectlyknown。Astheyarealsopre-eminentlywanderers,andarethuslittlefittedforillustratingthegeographicaldistributionoflifeinalimitedarea,wewillhereleavethemoutofconsiderationandconfineourattentiononlytothe195landbirds。

WhenweconsiderthatallEurope,withitsvariedclimateandvegetation,witheverymileofitssurfaceexplored,andwiththeimmenseextentoftemperateAsiaandAfrica,whichserveasstorehouses,fromwhichitiscontinuallyrecruited,onlysupports25lspeciesoflandbirdsasresidentsorregularimmigrants,wemustlookuponthenumbersalreadyprocuredinthesmallandcomparativelyunknownislandsoftheMoluccasasindicatingafaunaoffullyaveragerichnessinthisdepartment。

Butwhenwecometoexaminethefamilygroupswhichgotomakeupthisnumber,wefindthemostcuriousdeficienciesinsome,balancedbyequallystrikingredundancyinother。ThusifwecomparethebirdsoftheMoluccaswiththoseofIndia,asgiveninMr。Jerdon\'swork,wefindthatthethreegroupsoftheparrots,kingfishers,andpigeons,formnearly_one-third_ofthewholeland-birdsintheformer,whiletheyamounttoonly_one-

twentieth_inthelattercountry。Ontheotherhand,suchwide-

spreadgroupsasthethrushes,warblers,andfinches,whichinIndiaformnearly_one-third_ofalltheland-birds,dwindledownintheMoluccasto_one-fourteenth。_

Thereasonofthesepeculiaritiesappearstobe,thattheMoluccanfaunahasbeenalmostentirelyderivedfromthatofNewGuinea,inwhichcountrythesamedeficiencyandthesameluxurianceistobeobserved。Outoftheseventy-eightgenerainwhichtheMoluccanland-birdsmaybeclassed,nolessthanseventyarecharacteristicofYewGuinea,whileonlysixbelongspeciallytotheIndo-Malayislands。ButthiscloseresemblancetoNewGuineageneradoesnotextendtothespecies,fornolessthan140outofthe195land-birdsarepeculiartotheMoluccanislands,while32arefoundalsoinNewGuinea,and15intheIndo-Malayislands。Thesefactsteachus,thatthoughthebirdsofthisgrouphaveevidentlybeenderivedmainlyfromNewGuinea,yettheimmigrationhasnotbeenarecentone,sincetherehasbeentimeforthegreaterportionofthespeciestohavebecomechanged。Wefind,also,thatmanyverycharacteristicNewGuineaformslavenotenteredtheMoluccasatall,whileothersfoundinCeramandGilolodonotextendsofarwestasBouru。Considering,further,theabsenceofmostoftheNewGuineamammalsfromtheMoluccas,weareledtotheconclusionthattheseislandsarenotfragmentswhichhavebeenseparatedfromNewGuinea,butformadistinctinsularregion,whichhasbeenupheavedindependentlyataratherremoteepoch,andduringallthemutationsithasundergonehasbeenconstantlyreceivingimmigrantsfromthatgreatandproductiveisland。TheconsiderablelengthoftimetheMoluccashaveremainedisolatedisfurtherindicatedbytheoccurrenceoftwopeculiargeneraofbirds,SemiopteraandLycocorax,whicharefoundnowhereelse。

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