第10章

Thenextday(October16th)Iwentbeyondtheswamp，andfoundaplacewhereanewclearingwasbeingmadeinthevirginforest。

Itwasalongandhotwalk，andthesearchamongthefallentrunksandbrancheswasveryfatiguing，butIwasrewardedbyobtainingaboutseventydistinctspeciesofbeetles，ofwhichatleastadozenwerenewtome，andmanyothersrareandinteresting。Ihaveneverinmylifeseenbeetlessoabundantastheywereonthisspot。Somedozenspeciesofgood-sizedgoldenBuprestidae，greenrose-chafers(Lomaptera)，andlong-hornedweevils(Anthribidae)，weresoabundantthattheyroseupinswarmsasIwalkedalong，fillingtheairwithaloudbuzzinghum。Alongwiththese，severalfineLongicornswerealmostequallycommon，formingsuchauassemblageasforoncetorealizethatideaoftropicalluxuriancewhichoneobtainsbylookingoverthedrawersofawell-filledcabinet。OntheundersidesofthetrunksclungnumbersofsmallerormoresluggishLongicorns，whileonthebranchesattheedgeoftheclearingotherscouldbedetectedsittingwithoutstretchedantennareadytotakeflightattheleastalarm。Itwasagloriousspot，andonewhichwillalwaysliveinmymemoryasexhibitingtheinsect-lifeofthetropicsinunexampledluxuriance。ForthethreefollowingdaysI

continuedtovisitthislocality，addingeachtimemanynewspeciestomycollection-thefollowingnotesofwhichmaybeinterestingtoentomologists。Octoberl5th，33speciesofbeetles；16th，70species；17th，47species；18th，40species；

19th，56species——inallaboutahundredspecies，ofwhichfortywerenewtome。Therewereforty-fourspeciesofLongicornsamongthem，andonthelastdayItooktwenty-eightspeciesofLongicorns，ofwhichfivewerenewtome。

Myboyswerelessfortunateinshooting。Theonlybirdsatallcommonwerethegreatredparrot(Eclectusgrandis)，foundinmostoftheMoluccas，acrow，andaMegapodius，ormound-maker。A

fewoftheprettyracquet-tailedkingfisherswerealsoobtained，butinverypoorplumage。Theyproved，however，tobeofadifferentspeciesfromthosefoundintheotherislands，andcomenearesttothebirdoriginallydescribedbyLinnaeusunderthenameofAlcedodea，andwhichcamefromTernate。ThiswouldindicatethatthesmallchainofislandsparalleltoGilolohaveafewpeculiarspeciesincommon，afactwhichcertainlyoccursininsects。

ThepeopleofKaioainterestedmemuch。Theyareevidentlyamixedrace，havingMalayandPapuanaffinities，andarealliedtothepeoplesofTernateandofGilolo。Theypossessapeculiarlanguage，somewhatresemblingthoseofthesurroundingislands，butquitedistinct。TheyarenowMahometans，andaresubjecttoTernate，Theonlyfruitsseenherewerepapawsandpine-apples，therockysoilanddryclimatebeingunfavourable。Rice，maize，andplantainsflourishwell，exceptthattheysufferfromoccasionaldryseasonslikethepresentone。Thereisalittlecottongrown，fromwhichthewomenweavesarongs(Malaypetticoats)。Thereisonlyonewellofgoodwaterontheislands，situatedclosetothelanding-place，towhichalltheinhabitantscomefordrinkingwater。Themenaregoodboat-builders，andtheymakearegulartradeofitandseemtobeverywelloff。

AfterfivedaysatKaióawecontinuedourjourney，andsoongotamongthenarrowstraitsandislandswhichleaddowntothetownofBatchian。IntheeveningwestayedatasettlementofGalelamen。ThesearenativesofadistrictintheextremenorthofGilolo，andaregreatwanderersoverthispartoftheArchipelago。Theybuildlargeandroomyprauswithoutriggers，andsettleonanycoastorislandtheytakeafancyfor。Theyhuntdeerandwildpig，dryingthemeat；theycatchturtleandtripang；theycutdowntheforestandplantriceormaize，andarealtogetherremarkablyenergeticandindustrious。Theyareverylinepeople，oflightcomplexion，tall，andwithPapuanfeatures，comingnearertothedrawingsanddescriptionsofthetruePolynesiansofTahitiandOwyheethananyIhaveseen。

DuringthisvoyageIhadseveraltimeshadanopportunityofseeingmymengetfirebyfriction。Asharp-edgedpieceofbambooisrubbedacrosstheconvexsurfaceofanotherpiece，onwhichasmallnotchisfirstcut。Therubbingisslowatfirstandgraduallyquicker，tillitbecomesveryrapid，andthefinepowderrubbedoffignitesandfallsthroughtheholewhichtherubbinghascutinthebamboo。Thisisdonewithgreatquicknessandcertainty。TheTernate，peopleusebambooinanotherway。

Theystrikeitsflintysurfacewithabitofbrokenchina，andproduceaspark，whichtheycatchinsomekindoftinder。

OntheeveningofOctober21stwereachedourdestination，havingbeentwelvedaysonthevoyage。Ithadbeentineweatherallthetime，and，althoughveryhot，Ihadenjoyedmyselfexceedingly，andhadbesidesobtainedsomeexperienceinboatworkamongislandsandcoralreefs，whichenabledmeafterwardstoundertakemuchlongervoyagesofthesamekind。ThevillageortownofBatchianissituatedattheheadofawideanddeepbay，wherealowisthmusconnectsthenorthernandsouthernmountainouspartsoftheisland。Tothesouthisafine。rangeofmountains，andI

hadnoticedatseveralofourlanding-placesthatthegeologicalformationoftheislandwasverydifferentfromthosearoundit。

Wheneverrockwasvisibleitwaseithersandstoneinthinlayers，dippingsouth，orapebblyconglomerate。Sometimestherewasalittlecorallinelimestone，butnovolcanicrocks。TheforesthadadenseluxurianceandloftinessseldomfoundonthedryandporouslavasandraisedcoralreefsofTernateandGilolo；andhopingforacorrespondingrichnessinthebirdsandinsects，itwaswithmuchsatisfactionandwithconsiderableexpectationthatIbeganmyexplorationsinthehithertounknownislandofBatchian。

CHAPTERXXIV。

BATCHIAN。

(OCTOBER1858ToAPRIL1859。)

ILANDEDoppositethehousekeptfortheuseoftheResidentofTernate，andwasmetbyarespectablemiddle-agedMalay，whotoldmehewasSecretarytotheSultan，andwouldreceivetheofficialletterwithwhichIhadbeenprovided。Ongivingithim，heatonceinformedmeImighthavetheuseoftheofficialresidencewhichwasempty。Isoongotmythingsonshore，butonlookingaboutmefoundthatthehousewouldneverdotostaylongin。

Therewasnowaterexceptataconsiderabledistance，andoneofmymenwouldbealmostentirelyoccupiedgettingwaterandfirewood，andIshouldmyselfhavetowalkallthroughthevillageeverydaytotheforest，andlivealmostinpublic，athingImuchdislike。Theroomswereallboarded，andhadceilings，whichareagreatnuisance，astherearenomeansofhanginganythingupexceptbydrivingnails，andnothalftheconveniencesofanativebambooandthatchcottage。Iaccordinglyinquiredforahouseoutsideofthevillageontheroadtothecoalmines，andwasinformedbytheSecretarythattherewasasmallonebelongingtotheSultan，andthathewouldgowithmeearlynextmorningtoseeit。

Wehadtopassonelargeriver，byarudebutsubstantialbridge，andtowadethroughanotherfinepebblystreamofclearwater，justbeyondwhichthelittlebutwassituated。Itwasverysmall，notraisedonposts，butwiththeearthforafloor，andwasbuiltalmostentirelyoftheleaf-stemsofthesago-palm，calledhere"gaba-gaba。"Acrosstheriverbehindroseaforest-cladbank，andagoodroadcloseinfrontofthehorseledthroughcultivatedgroundstotheforestabouthalfamileon，andthencetothecoalminestourmilesfurther。Theseadvantagesatoncedecidedme，andItoldtheSecretaryIwouldbeverygladtooccupythehouse。Ithereforesentmytwomenimmediatelytobuy"ataps"(palm-leafthatch)torepairtheroof，andthenextday，withtheassistanceofeightoftheSultan\'smen，gotallmystoresandfurniturecarriedupandprettycomfortablyarranged。

Aroughbamboobedsteadwassoonconstructed，andatablemadeofboardswhichIhadbroughtwithme，fixedunderthewindow。Twobamboochairs，aneasycanechair，andhangingshelvessuspendedwithinsulatingoilcups，soastobesafefromants，completedmyfurnishingarrangements。

Intheafternoonsucceedingmyarrival，theSecretaryaccompaniedmetovisittheSultan。Wewerekeptwaitingafewminutesinanoutergate-house，andthenusheredtothedoorofarude，half-

fortifiedwhitewashedhouse。Asmalltableandthreechairswereplacedinalargeoutercorridor，andanolddirty-facedmanwithgreyhairandagrimybeard，dressedinaspeckledbluecottonjacketandlooseredtrousers，cameforward，shookhands，andaskedmetobecoated。Afteraquarterofanhour\'sconversationonmypursuits，inwhichhisMajestyseemedtotakegreatinterest，teaandcakes-ofratherbetterqualitythanusualonsuchoccasions-werebroughtin。Ithankedhimforthehouse，andofferedtoshowhimmycollections，whichhepromisedtocomeandlookat。Hethenaskedmetoteachhimtotakeviews-tomakemaps-togethimasmallgunfromEngland，andamilch-goatfromBengal；allofwhichrequestsIevadedasskilfullyasIwasable，andwepartedverygoodfriends。Heseemedasensibleoldman，andlamentedthesmallpopulationoftheisland，whichheassuredmewasrichinmanyvaluableminerals，includinggold；

buttherewerenotpeopleenoughtolookafterthemandworkthem。IdescribedtohimthegreatrushofpopulationonthediscoveryoftheAustraliangoldmines，andthehugenuggetsfoundthere，withwhichhewasmuchinterested，andexclaimed，"Oh？ifwehadbutpeoplelikethat，mycountrywouldbequiteasrich"

ThemorningafterIhadgotintomynewhouse，Isentmyboysouttoshoot，andwentmyselftoexploretheroadtothecoalmines。

Inlessthanhalfamileitenteredthevirginforest，ataplacewheresomemagnificenttreesformedakindofnaturalavenue。Thefirstpartwasflatandswampy，butitsoonrosealittle，andranalongsidethefinestreamwhichpassedbehindmyhouse，andwhichhererushedandgurgledoverarockyorpebblybed，sometimesleavingwidesandbanksonitsmargins，andatotherplacesflowingbetweenhighbankscrownedwithavariedandmagnificentforestvegetation。Afterabouttwomiles，thevalleynarrowed，andtheroadwascarriedalongthesteephill-sidewhichroseabruptlyfromthewater\'sedge。Insomeplacestherockhadbeencutaway，butitssurfacewasalreadycoveredwithelegantfernsandcreepers。Gigantictree-fernswereabundant，andthewholeforesthadanairofluxurianceandrichvarietywhichitneverattainsinthedryvolcanicsoiltowhichIhadbeenlatelyaccustomed。Alittlefurthertheroadpassedtotheothersideofthevalleybyabridgeacrossthestreamataplacewhereagreatmassofrockinthemiddleofferedanexcellentsupportforit，andtwomilesmoreofmostpicturesqueandinterestingroadbroughtmetotheminingestablishment。

Thisissituatedinalargeopenspace，ataspotwheretwotributariesfallintothemainstream。Severalforest-pathsandnewclearingsofferedfinecollectinggrounds，andIcapturedsomenewandinterestinginsects；butasitwasgettinglateI

hadtoreserveamorethoroughexplorationforfutureoccasions。

Coalhadbeendiscoveredheresomeyearsbefore，andtheroadwasmadeinordertobringdownasufficientquantityforafairtrialontheDutchsteamers。Thequality，however，wasnotthoughtsufficientlygood，andthemineswereabandoned。Quiterecently，workshadbeencommencedinanotherspot，inHopesoffindingabettervein。Therewareabouteightymenemployed，chieflyconvicts；butthiswasfartoosmallanumberforminingoperationsinsuchacountry，wherethemerekeepingafewmilesofroadinrepairrequirestheconstantworkofseveralmen。Ifcoalofsufficientlygoodqualityshouldbefound，atramroadwouldbemade，andwouldbeveryeasilyworked，owingtotheregulardescentofthevalley。

JustasIgothomeIovertookAlireturningfromshootingwithsomebirchhangingfromhisbelt。Heseemedmuchpleased，andsaid，"Lookhere，sir，whatacuriousbird，"holdingoutwhatatfirstcompletelypuzzledme。Isawabirdwithamassofsplendidgreenfeathersonitsbreast，elongatedintotwoglitteringtufts；but，whatIcouldnotunderstandwasapairoflongwhitefeathers，whichstuckstraightoutfromeachshoulder。Aliassuredmethatthebirdstuckthemoutthiswayitself，whenflutteringitswings，andthattheyhadremainedsowithouthistouchingthem。InowsawthatIhadgotagreatprize，nolessthanacompletelynewformoftheBirdofParadise，differingmostremarkablyfromeveryotherknownbird。Thegeneralplumageisverysober，beingapureashyolive，withapurplishtingeontheback；thecrownoftheheadisbeautifullyglossedwithpalemetallicviolet，andthefeathersofthefrontextendasmuchoverthebeakasinmostofthefamily。Theneckandbreastarescaledwithfinemetallicgreen，andthefeathersonthelowerpartareelongatedoneachside，soastoformatwo-pointedgorget，whichcanbefoldedbeneaththewings，orpartiallyerectedandspreadoutinthesamewayasthesideplumesofmostofthebirdsofparadise。Thefourlongwhiteplumeswhichgivethebirditsaltogetheruniquecharacter，springfromlittletuberclesclosetotheupperedgeoftheshoulderorbendofthewing；theyarenarrow，gentlecurved，andequallywebbedonbothsides，ofapurecreamywhitecolour。Theyarcaboutsixincheslong，equallingthewing，andcanberaisedatrightanglestoit，orlaidalongthebodyatthepleasureofthebird。Thebillishorncolour，thelegsyellow，andtheirispaleolive。ThisstrikingnoveltyhasbeennamedbyMr。G。R。GrayoftheBritishMuseum，SemiopteraWallacei，or"Wallace\'sStandardwing。"

AfewdayslaterIobtainedanexceedinglybeautifulnewbutterfly，alliedtothefinebluePapilioUlysses，butdifferingfromitinthecolourbeingofamoreintensetint，andinhavingarowofbluestripesaroundthemarginofthelowerwings。Thisgoodbeginningwas，however，ratherdeceptive，andIsoonfoundthatinsects，andespeciallybutterflies，weresomewhatscarce，andbirdsintarlessvarietythanIhadanticipated。SeveralofthefineMoluccanspecieswerehoweverobtained。Thehandsomeredlorywithgreenwingsandayellowspotintheback(Loriusgarrulus)，wasnotuncommon。WhentheJambu，orroseapple(Eugenicsp。)，wasinflowerinthevillage，flocksofthelittlelorikeet(Charmosynaplacentis)，alreadymetwithinGilolo，cametofeeduponthenectar，andIobtainedasmanyspecimensasI

desired。AnotherbeautifulbirdoftheparrottribewastheGeoffroyuscyanicollis，agreenparrotwitharedbillandhead，whichcolourshadedonthecrownintoazureblue，andthenceintoverditerblueandthegreenoftheback。Twolargeandhandsomefruitpigeons，withmetallicgreen，ashy，andrufousplumage，werenotuncommon；andIwasrewardedbyfindingasplendiddeepblueroller(Eurystomusazureus)；alovelygolden-cappedsunbird(Nectarineaauriceps)，andafineracquet-tailedkingfisher(Tanysipteraisis)，allofwhichwereentirelynewtoornithologists。OfinsectsIobtainedaconsiderablenumberofinterestingbeetles，includingmanyfinelongicorns，amongwhichwasthelargestandhandsomestspeciesofthegenusGleneayetdiscovered。AmongbutterfliesthebeautifullittleDanissebaewasabundant，makingtheforestsgaywithitsdelicatewingsofwhiteandtherichestmetallicblue；whileshowyPapilios，andprettyPieridae，anddark，richEuphaeas，manyofthemnew，furnishedaconstantsourceofinterestandpleasingoccupation。

TheislandofBatchianpossessesnoreallyindigenousinhabitants，theinteriorbeingaltogetheruninhabited；andthereareonlyafewsmallvillagesonvariouspartsofthecoast；yetIfoundherefourdistinctraces，whichwouldwofullymisleadanethnologicaltravellerunabletoobtaininformationastotheirorigin，firsttherearetheBatchianMalays，probablytheearliestcolonists，differingverylittlefromthoseofTernate。

Theirlanguage，however，seemstohavemoreofthePapuanelement，withamixtureofpureMalay，showingthatthesettlementisoneofstragglersofvariousraces，althoughnowsufficientlyhomogeneous。Thentherearethe"OrangSirani，"asatTernateandAmboyna。ManyofthesehavethePortuguesephysiognomystrikinglypreserved，butcombinedwithaskingenerallydarkerthantheMalays。Somenationalcustomsareretained，andtheMalay，whichistheironlylanguage，containsalargenumberofPortuguesewordsandidioms。ThethirdraceconsistsoftheGalelamenfromthenorthofGilolo，asingularpeople，whomIhavealreadydescribed；andthefourthisacolonyfromTomóre，intheeasternpeninsulaofCelebes。Thesepeoplewerebroughthereattheirownrequestafewyearsago，toavoidexterminationbyanothertribe。Theyhaveaverylightcomplexion，openTartarphysiognomy，lowstature，andalanguageoftheBugistype。Theyareanindustriousagriculturalpeople，andsupplythetownwithvegetables。Theymakeagooddealofbarkcloth，similartothetapaofthePolynesians，bycuttingdownthepropertreesandtapingofflargecylindersofbark，whichisbeatenwithmalletstillitseparatesfromthewood。Itisthensoaked，andsocontinuouslyandregularlybeatenoutthatitbecomesasthinandastoughasparchment。Inthisfoamitismuchusedforwrappersforclothes；andtheyalsomakejacketsofit，sewnneatlytogetherandstainedwiththejuiceofanotherkindofbark，whichgivesitadarkredcolourandrendersitnearlywaterproof。

HerearefourverydistinctkindsofpeoplewhomayallbeseenanydayinandaboutthetownofBatchian。NowifwesupposeatravellerignorantofMalay，pickingupawordortwohereandthereofthe"Batchianlanguage，"andnotingdownthe"physicalandmoralpeculiarities，manners，andcustomsoftheBatchianpeople"——(fortherearetravellerswhodoallthisinfour-and-

twentyhours)——whatanaccurateandinstructivechapterweshouldhave\'whattransitionswouldbepointedout，whattheoriesoftheoriginofraceswouldbedevelopedwhilethenexttravellermightflatlycontradicteverystatementandarriveatexactlyoppositeconclusions。

SoonafterIarrivedheretheDutchGovernmentintroducedanewcoppercoinageofcentsinsteadofdoits(the100thinsteadofthe120thpartofaguilder)，andalltheoldcoinswereorderedtobesenttoTernatetobechanged。Isentabagcontaining6，000doits，anddulyreceivedthenewmoneybyreturnoftheboat。ThenAliwenttobringit，however，thecaptainrequiredawrittenorder；soIwaitedtosendagainthenextday，anditwasluckyIdidso，forthatnightmyhousewasentered，allmyboxescarriedoutandransacked，andthevariousarticlesleftontheroadabouttwentyyardsoff，wherewefoundthematfiveinthemorning，when，ongettingupandfindingthehouseempty，werushedouttodiscovertracksofthethieves。NotbeingabletofindthecoppermoneywhichtheythoughtIhadjustreceived，theydecamped，takingnothingbutafewyardsofcottonclothandablackcoatandtrousers，whichlatterwerepickedupafewdaysafterwardshiddeninthegrass。Therewasnodoubtwhateverwhowerethethieves。ConvictsareemployedtoguardtheGovernmentstoreswhentheboatarrivesfromTernate。Twoofthemwatchallnight，andoftentaketheopportunitytoroamaboutandcommitrobberies。

ThenextdayIreceivedmymoney，andsecureditwellinastrongboxfastenedundermybed。Itookoutfiveorsixhundredcentsfordailyexpenses，andputtheminasmalljapannedbox，whichalwaysstooduponmytable。IntheafternoonIwentforashortwalk，andonmyreturnthisboxandmykeys，whichIhadcarelesslyleftonthetable，weregone。Twoofmyboyswereinthehouse，buthadheardnothing。IimmediatelygaveinformationofthetworobberiestotheDirectorattheminesandtotheCommandantatthefort，andgotforanswer，thatifIcaughtthethiefintheactImightshoothim。Byinquiryinthevillage，weafterwardsfoundthatoneoftheconvictswhowasondutyattheGovernmentrice-storeinthevillagehadquittedhisguard，wasseentopassoverthebridgetowardsmyhouse，wasseenagainwithintwohundredyardsofmyhouse，andonreturningoverthebridgeintothevillagecarriedsomethingunderhisarm，carefullycoveredwithhissarong。Myboxwasstolenbetweenthehourshewasseengoingandreturning，anditwassosmallastobeeasilycarriedinthewaydescribed。Thisseemedprettyclearcircumstantialevidence。IaccusedthemanandbroughtthewitnessestotheCommandant。Themanwasexamined，andconfessedhavinggonetotheriverclosetomyhousetobathe；butsaidhehadgonenofarther，havingclimbedupacocoa-nuttreeandbroughthometwonuts，whichhehadcoveredover，_becausehewasashamedtobeseencarryingthem！_Thisexplanationwasthoughtsatisfactory，andhewasacquitted。Ilostmycashandmybox，asealImuchvalued，withothersmallarticles，andallmykeys-

theseverestlossbyfar。Luckilymylargecash-boxwasleftlocked，butsowereotherswhichIrequiredtoopenimmediately。

Therewas，however，averycleverblacksmithemployedtodoironworkforthemines，andhepickedmylocksformewhenI

requiredthem，andinafewdaysmademenewkeys，whichIusedallthetimeIwasabroad。

TowardstheendofNovemberthewetseasonsetin，andwehaddailyandalmostincessantrains，withonlyaboutoneortwohours\'sunshineinthemorning。Theflatpartsoftheforestbecameflooded，theroadsfilledwithmud，andinsectsandbirdswerescarcerthanever。OnDecemberLath，intheafternoon，wehadasharpearthquakeshock，whichmadethehouseandfurnitureshaleandrattleforfiveminutes，andthetreesandshrubswaveasifagustofwindhadpassedoverthem。AboutthemiddleofDecemberIremovedtothevillage，inordermoreeasilytoexplorethedistricttothewestofit，andtobeneartheseawhenIwishedtoreturntoTernate。Iobtainedtheuseofagood-

sizedhouseintheCampongSirani(orChristianvillage)，andatChristmasandtheNewYearhadtoenduretheincessantgun-

firing，drum-beating，andfiddlingoftheinhabitants。

Thesepeopleareveryfondofmusicanddancing，anditwouldastonishaEuropeantovisitoneoftheirassemblies。Weenteragloomypalm-leafhut，inwhichtwoorthreeverydimlampsbarelyrenderdarknessvisible。Thefloorisofblacksandyearth，theroofhidinasmokyimpenetrableblackness；twoorthreebenchesstandagainstthewalls，andtheorchestraconsistsofafiddle，afife，adrum，andatriangle。Thereisplentyofcompany，consistingofyoungmenandwomen，allveryneatlydressedinwhiteandblack——atruePortuguesehabit。Quadrilles，waltzes，polkas，andmazurkasaredancedwithgreatvigourandmuchskill。

Therefreshmentsaremuddycoffeeandafewsweetmeats。Dancingiskeptupforhours，andallisconductedwithmuchdecorumandpropriety。Apartyofthiskindmeetsaboutonceaweek，theprincipalinhabitantstakingitbyturns，andallwhopleasecomeinwithoutmuchceremony。

Itisastonishinghowlittlethesepeoplehavealteredinthreehundredyears，althoughinthattimetheyhavechangedtheirlanguageandlostallknowledgeoftheirownnationality。TheyarestillinmannersandappearancealmostpurePortuguese，verysimilartothosewithwhomIhadbecomeacquaintedonthebanksoftheAmazon。Theyliveverypoorlyasregardstheirhouseandfurniture，butpreserveasemi-Europeandress，andhavealmostallfullsuitsofblackforSundays。TheyarenominallyProtestants，butSundayeveningistheirgranddayformusicanddancing。Themenareoftengoodhunters；andtwoorthreetimesaweek，deerorwildpigsarebroughttothevillage，which，withfishandfowls，enablesthemtolivewell。TheyarealmosttheonlypeopleintheArchipelagowhoeatthegreatfruit-eatingbatscalledbyus"flyingfoxes。"Theseuglycreaturesareconsideredagreatdelicacy，andaremuchsoughtafter。Ataboutthebeginningoftheyeartheycomeinlargeflockstoeatfruit，andcongregateduringthedayonsomesmallislandsinthebay，hangingbythousandsonthetrees，especiallyondeadones。Theycanthenbeeasilycaughtorknockeddownwithsticks，andarebroughthomebybasketsfull。Theyrequiretobecarefullyprepared，astheskinandfurhasarankendpowerfulfoxyodour；

buttheyaregenerallycookedwithabundanceofspicesandcondiments，andarereallyverygoodeating，somethinglikehare。

TheOrangSiraniaregoodcooks，havingamuchgreatervarietyofsavourydishesthantheMalays。Here，theylivechieflyonsagoasbread，withalittlericeoccasionally，andabundanceofvegetablesandfruit。

ItisacuriousfactthateverywhereinthePastwherethePortuguesehavemixedwiththenativeracestheyleavebecomedarkerincolourthaneitheroftheparentstocks。Thisisthecasealmostalwayswiththese"OrangSirani"intheMoluccas，andwiththePortugueseofMalacca。ThereverseisthecaseinSouthAmerica，wherethemixtureofthePortugueseorBrazilianwiththeIndianproducesthe"Mameluco，"whoisnotunfrequentlylighterthaneitherparent，andalwayslighterthantheIndian。

ThewomenatBatchian，althoughgenerallyfairerthanthemen，arecoarseinfeatures，andveryfarinferiorinbeautytothemixedDutch-Malaygirls，oreventomanypureMalays。

ThepartofthevillageinwhichIresidedwasagroveofcocoa-

nuttrees，andatnight，whenthedeadleavesweresometimescollectedtogetherandburnt，theeffectwasmostmagnificent——

thetallstems，thefinecrownsoffoliage，andtheimmensefruit-clusters，beingbrilliantlyilluminatedagainstadarksky，andappearinglikeafairypalacesupportedonahundredcolumns，andgroinedoverwithleafyarches。Thecocoa-nuttree，whenwellgrown，iscertainlytheprinceofpalmsbothforbeautyandutility。

DuringmyveryfirstwalkintotheforestatBatchian，Ihadseensittingonaleafoutofreach，animmensebutterflyofadarkcolourmarkedwithwhiteandyellowspots。Icouldnotcaptureitasitflewawayhighupintotheforest，butIatoncesawthatitwasafemaleofanewspeciesofOrnithopteraor"bird-wingedbutterfly，"theprideoftheEasterntropics。Iwasveryanxioustogetitandtofindthemale，whichinthisgenusisalwaysofextremebeauty。DuringthetwosucceedingmonthsIonlysawitonceagain，andshortlyafterwardsIsawthemaleflyinghighintheairattheminingvillage。Ihadbeguntodespairofevergettingaspecimen，asitseemedsorareandwild；tilloneday，aboutthebeginningofJanuary，Ifoundabeautifulshrubwithlargewhiteleafybractsandyellowflowers，aspeciesofMussaenda，andsawoneofthesenobleinsectshoveringoverit，butitwastooquickforme，andflewaway。ThenextclayIwentagaintothesameshrubandsucceededincatchingafemale，andthedayafterafinemale。IfoundittobeasIhadexpected，aperfectlynewandmostmagnificentspecies，andoneofthemostgorgeouslycolouredbutterfliesintheworld。Finespecimensofthemalearemorethanseveninchesacrossthewings，whicharevelvetyblackandfieryorange，thelattercolourreplacingthegreenofthealliedspecies。Thebeautyandbrilliancyofthisinsectareindescribable，andnonebutanaturalistcanunderstandtheintenseexcitementIexperiencedwhenIatlengthcapturedit。Ontakingitoutofmynetandopeningthegloriouswings，myheartbegantobeatviolently，thebloodrushedtomyhead，andIfeltmuchmorelikefaintingthanIhavedonewheninapprehensionofimmediatedeath。Ihadaheadachetherestoftheday，sogreatwastheexcitementproducedbywhatwillappeartomostpeopleaveryinadequatecause。

IhaddecidedtoreturntoTernateinaweekortwomore，butthisgrandcapturedeterminedmetostayontillIobtainedagoodseriesofthenewbutterfly，whichIhavesincenamedOrnithopteracroesus。TheMussaendabushwasanadmirableplace，whichIcouldvisiteverydayonmywaytotheforest；andasitwassituatedinadensethicketofshrubsandcreepers，IsetmymanLahitoclearaspaceallroundit，sothatIcouldeasilygetatanyinsectthatmightvisitit。Afterwards，findingthatitwasoftennecessarytowaitsometimethere，Ihadalittleseatputupunderatreebythesideofit，whereIcameeverydaytoeatmylunch，andthushadhalfanhour\'swatchingaboutnoon，besidesachanceasIpasseditinthemorning。InthiswayIobtainedonanaverageonespecimenadayforalongtime，butmorethanhalfofthesewerefemales，andmorethanhalftheremainderwornorbrokenspecimens，sothatIshouldnothaveobtainedmanyperfectmaleshadInotfoundanotherstationforthem。

AssoonasIhadseenthemcometoflowers，IsentmymanLahiwithanetonpurposetosearchforthem，astheyhadalsobeenseenatsomefloweringtreesonthebeach，andIpromisedhimhalfaday\'swagesextraforeverygoodspecimenhecouldcatch。

Afteradayortwohebroughtmetwoveryfairspecimens，andtoldmehehadcaughttheminthebedofalargerockystreamthatdescendsfromthemountainstotheseaabortamilebelowthevillage。Theyflewdownthisriver，settlingoccasionallyonstonesandrocksinthewater，andhewasobligedtowadeupitorjumpfromrocktorocktogetatthem。Iwentwithhimoneday，butfoundthatthestreamwasfartoorapidandthestonestooslipperyformetodoanything，soIleftitentirelytohim，andalltherestofthetimewestayedinBatchianheusedtobeoutallday，generallybringingmeone，andongooddaystwoorthreespecimens。Iwasthusabletobringawaywithmemorethanahundredofbothsexes，includingperhapstwentyveryfinemales，thoughnotmorethanfiveorsixthatwereabsolutelyperfect。

Mydailywalknowledme，firstabouthalfamilealongthesandybeach，thenthroughasagoswampoveracausewayofveryshakypolestothevillageoftheTomorepeople。Beyondthiswastheforestwithpatchesofnewclearing，shadypaths，andaconsiderablequantityoffelledtimber。Ifoundthisaveryfaircollectingground，especiallyforbeetles。ThefallentrunksintheclearingsaboundedwithgoldenBuprestidaeandcuriousBrenthidae，andlongicorns，whileintheforestIfoundabundanceofthesmallerCurculionidae，manylongicorns，andsomefinegreenCarabidae。

Butterflieswerenotabundant，butIobtainedafewmoreofthefinebluePapilio，andanumberofbeautifullittleLycaenidae，aswellasasinglespecimenoftheveryrarePapilioWallacei，ofwhichIhadtakenthehithertouniquespecimenintheAruIslands。

ThemostinterestingbirdsIobtainedhere，werethebeautifulbluekingfisher，Todiramphusdiops；thefinegreenandpurpledoves，PtilonopussuperbusandP。iogaster，andseveralnewbirdsofsmallsize。MyshootersstillbroughtmeinspecimensoftheSemiopteraWallacei，andIwasgreatlyexcitedbythepositivestatementsofseveralofthenativehuntersthatanotherspeciesofthisbirdexisted，muchhandsomerandmoreremarkable。Theydeclaredthattheplumagewasglossyblack，withmetallicgreenbreastasinmyspecies，butthatthewhiteshoulderplumesweretwiceaslong，andhungdownfarbelowthebodyofthebird。Theydeclaredthatwhenhuntingpigsordeerfarintheforesttheyoccasionallysawthisbird，butthatitwasrare。Iimmediatelyofferedtwelveguilders(apound)foraspecimen；butallinvain，andIamtothisdayuncertainwhethersuchabirdexists。

SinceIleft，theGermannaturalist，Dr。Bernstein，stayedmanymonthsintheislandwithalargestaffofhunterscollectingfortheLeydenMuseum；andashewasnotmoresuccessfulthanmyself，wemustconsidereitherthatthebirdisveryrare，orisaltogetheramyth。

BatchianisremarkableasbeingthemosteasternpointontheglobeinhabitedbyanyoftheQuadrumana。Alargeblackbaboon-

monkey(Cynopithecusnigrescens)isabundantinsomepartsoftheforest。Thisanimalhasbareredcallosities，andarudimentarytailaboutaninchlong——amerefleshytubercle，whichmaybeveryeasilyoverlooked。ItisthesamespeciesthatisfoundallovertheforestsofCelebes，andasnoneoftheotherMammaliaofthatislandextendintoBatchianIaminclinedtosupposethatthisspecieshasbeenaccidentallyintroducedbytheroamingMalays，whooftencarryaboutwiththemtamemonkeysandotheranimals。ThisisrenderedmoreprobablebythefactthattheanimalisnotfoundinGilolo，whichisonlyseparatedfromBatchianbyaverynarrowstrait。Theintroductionmayhavebeenveryrecent，asinafertileandunoccupiedislandsuchananimalwouldmultiplyrapidly。TheonlyothermammalsobtainedwereanEasternopossum，whichDr。GrayhasdescribedasCuscusornatus；

thelittleflyingopossum，Belideusariel；aCivetcat，Viverrazebetha；andnicespeciesofbats，mostofthesmalleronesbeingcaughtintheduskwithmybutterflynetastheyflewaboutbeforethehouse。

Aftermuchdelay，owingtobadweatherandtheillnessofoneofmymen，IdeterminedtovisitKasserota(formerlythechiefvillage)，situatedupasmallstream，onanislandclosetothenorthcoastofBatchian；whereIwastoldthatmanyrarebirdswerefound。Aftermyboatwasloadedandeverythingready，threedaysofheavysquallspreventedourstarting，anditwasnottillthe21stofMarchthatwegotaway。Earlynextmorningweenteredthelittleriver，andinaboutanhourwereachedtheSultan\'shouse，whichIhadobtainedpermissiontouse。Itwassituatedonthebankoftheriver，andsurroundedbyaforestoffruittrees，amongwhichweresomeoftheveryloftiestandmostgracefulcocoa-nutpalmsIhaveeverseen。Itrainednearlyallthatday，andIcoulddolittlebutunloadandunpack。Towardstheafternoonitclearedup，andIattemptedtoexploreinvariousdirections，butfoundtomydisgustthattheonlypathwasaperfectmudswamp，alongwhichitwasalmostimpossibletowalk，andthesurroundingforestsodampanddarkastopromiselittleinthewayofinsects。Ifoundtoooninquirythatthepeopleheremadenoclearings，livingentirelyonsago，fruit，fish，andgame；andthepathonlyledto-asteeprockymountainequallyimpracticableandunproductive。ThenextdayIsentmymentothishill，hopingitmightproducesomegoodbirds；buttheyreturnedwithonlytwocommonspecies，andImyselfhadbeenabletogetnothing；everylittletrackIhadattemptedtofollowleadingtoadensesagoswamp。IsawthatIshouldwastetimebystayinghere，anddeterminedtoleavethefollowingday。

ThisisoneofthosespotssohardfortheEuropeannaturalisttoconceive，wherewithalltherichesofatropicalvegetation，andpartlyperhapsfromtheveryluxurianceofthatvegetation，insectsareasscarceasinthemostbarrenpartsofEurope，andhardlymoreconspicuous。Intemperateclimatesthereisatolerableuniformityinthedistributionofinsectsoverthosepartsofacountryinwhichthereisasimilarityinthevegetation，anydeficiencybeingeasilyaccountedforbytheabsenceofwoodoruniformityofsurface。Thetravellerhastilypassingthroughsuchacountrycanatoncepickoutacollectinggroundwhichwillaffordhimafairnotionofitsentomology。

Herethecaseisdifferent。Therearecertainrequisitesofagoodcollectinggroundwhichcanonlybeascertainedtoexistbysomedays\'searchinthevicinityofeachvillage。Insomeplacesthereisnovirginforest，asatDjiloloandSahoe；inotherstherearenoopenpathwaysorclearings，ashere。AtBatchianthereareonlytwotolerablecollectingplaces，——theroadtothecoalmines，andthenewclearingsmadebytheTomórepeople，thelatterbeingbyfarthemostproductive。Ibelievethefacttobethatinsectsareprettyuniformlydistributedoverthesecountries(wheretheforestshavenotbeenclearedaway)，andaresoscarceinanyonespotthatsearchingforthemisalmostuseless。Iftheforestisallclearedaway，almostalltheinsectsdisappearwithit；butwhensmallclearingsandpathsaremade，thefallentreesinvariousstagesofdryinganddecay，therottingleaves，thelooseningbarkandthefungoidgrowthsuponit，togetherwiththeflowersthatappearinmuchgreaterabundancewherethelightisadmitted，aresomanyattractionstotheinsectsformilesaround，andcauseawonderfulaccumulationofspeciesandindividuals。Whentheentomologistcandiscoversuchaspot，hedoesmoreinamouththanhecouldpossiblydobyayear\'ssearchinthedepthsoftheundisturbedforest。

Thenextmorningweleftearly，andreachedthemouthofthelittleriverinaboutauhour。Itflowsthroughaperfectlyflatalluvialplain，buttherearehillswhichapproachitnearthemouth。Towardsthelowerpart，inaswampwherethesalt-watermustenterathightides，wereanumberofeleganttree-fernsfromeighttofifteenfeethigh。Thesearegenerallyconsideredtobemountainplants，andrarelytooccurontheequatoratanelevationoflessthanoneortwothousandfeet。InBorneo，intheAruIslands，andonthebanksoftheAmazon，Ihaveobservedthematthelevelofthesea，andthinkitprobablethatthealtitudesupposedtoberequisiteforthemmayhavebeendeducedfromfactsobservedincountrieswheretheplainsandlowlandsarelargelycultivated，andmostoftheindigenousvegetationdestroyed。SuchisthecaseinmostpartsofJava，India，Jamaica，andBrazil，wherethevegetationofthetropicshasbeenmostfullyexplored。

Comingouttoseaweturnednorthwards，andinabouttwohours\'

sailreachedafewhuts，calledLangundi，wheresomeGalelamenhadestablishedthemselvesascollectorsofgum-dammar，withwhichtheymadetorchesforthesupplyoftheTernatemarket。

Aboutahundredyardsbackrisesarathersteephill，andashortwalkhavingshownmethattherewasatolerablepathupit，I

determinedtostayhereforafewdays。Oppositeus，andallalongthiscoastofBatchian，stretchesarowoffineislandscompletelyuninhabited。WheneverIaskedthereasonwhynoonegoestoliveinthem，theansweralwayswas，"ForfearoftheMagindanopirates。"EveryyearthesescourgesoftheArchipelagowanderinonedirectionoranother，makingtheirrendezvousonsomeuninhabitedisland，andcarryingdevastationtoallthesmallsettlementsaround；robbing，destroying，killing，ortakingcaptivealltheyneewith。Theirlongwell-mannedprausescapefromthepursuitofanysailingvesselbypullingawayrightinthewind\'seye，andthewarningsmokeofasteamergenerallyenablesthemtohideinsomeshallowbay，ornarrowriver，orforest-coveredinlet，tillthedangerispassed。Theonlyeffectualwaytoputastoptotheirdepredationswouldbetoattackthemintheirstrongholdsandvillages，andcompelthemtogiveuppiracy，andsubmittostrictsurveillance。SirJamesBrookedidthiswiththepiratesofthenorth-westcoastofBorneo，anddeservesthethanksofthewholepopulationoftheArchipelagoforhavingridthemofhalftheirenemies。

Allalongthebeachhere，andintheadjacentstripofsandylowland，isaremarkabledisplayofPandanaceaeorScrew-pines。

Somearelikehugebranchingcandelabra，fortyorfiftyfeethigh，andbearingattheendofeachbranchatuftofimmensesword-shapedleaves，sixoreightincheswide，andasmanyfeetlong。Othershaveasingleunbranchedstem，sixorsevenfeethigh，theupperpartclothedwiththespirallyarrangedleaves，andbearingasingleterminalfruitaclargeasaswan\'segg。

Othersofintermediatesizehaveirregularclustersofroughredfruits，andallhavemoreorlessspiny-edgedleavesandringedstems。Theyoungplantsofthelargerspecieshavesmoothglossythickleaves，sometimestenfeetlongandeightincheswide，whichareusedallovertheMoluccasandNewGuinea，tomake"cocoyas"orsleepingmats，whichareoftenveryprettilyornamentedwithcolouredpatterns。Higheruponthebillisaforestofimmensetrees，amongwhichthoseproducingtheresincalleddammar(Dammarasp。)areabundant。TheinhabitantsofseveralsmallvillagesinBatchianareentirelyengagedinsearchingforthisproduct，andmakingitintotorchesbypoundingitandfillingitintotubesofpalmleavesaboutayardlong，whicharetheonlylightsusedbymanyofthenatives。

Sometimesthedammaraccumulatesinlargemassesoftenortwentypoundsweight，eitherattachedtothetrunk，orfoundburiedinthegroundatthefootofthetrees。Themostextraordinarytreesoftheforestare，however，akindoffig，theaerialrootsofwhichformapyramidnearahundredfeethigh，terminatingjustwherethetreebranchesoutabove，sothatthereisnorealtrunk。Thispyramidorconeisformedofrootsofeverysize，mostlydescendinginstraightlines，butmoreorlessobliquely-

andsocrossingeachother，andconnectedbycrossbranches，whichgrowfromonetoanother；astoformadenseandcomplicatednetwork，towhichnothingbutaphotographcoulddojustice(seeillustrationatVol。I。page130)。TheKanaryisalsoabundantinthisforest，thenutofwhichhasaveryagreeableflavour，andproducesanexcellentoil。Thefleshyoutercoveringofthenutisthefavouritefoodofthegreatgreenpigeonsoftheseislands(Carpophaga，perspicillata)，andtheirhoarsecopingsandheavyflutteringsamongthebranchescanbealmostcontinuallyheard。

AftertendaysatLangundi，findingitimpossibletogetthebirdIwasparticularlyinsearchof(theNicobarpigeon，oranewspeciesalliedtoit)，andfindingnonewbirds，andveryfewinsects，IleftearlyonthemorningofApril1st，andintheeveningenteredariveronthemainislandofBatchian(Langundi，likeKasserota，beingonadistinctisland)，wheresomeMalaysandGalelamenhaveasmallvillage，andhavemadeextensiverice-fieldsandplantaingrounds。Herewefoundagoodhouseneartheriverbank，wherethewaterwasfreshandclear，andtheowner，arespectableBatchianMalay，offeredmesleepingroomandtheuseoftheverandahifIlikedtostay。Seeingforestallroundwithinashortdistance，Iacceptedhisoffer，andthenextmorningbeforebreakfastwalkedouttoexplore，andontheskirtsoftheforestcapturedafewinterestinginsects。

Afterwards，Ifoundapathwhichledforamileormorethroughaveryfineforest，richerinpalmsthananyIhadseenintheMoluccas。Oneoftheseespeciallyattractedmyattentionfromitselegance。Thesteinwasnotthickerthanmywrist，yetitwasverylofty，andboreclustersofbrightredfruit。ItwasapparentlyaspeciesofAreca。AnotherofimmenseheightcloselyresembledinappearancetheEuterpesofSouthAmerica。Herealsogrewthefan-leafedpalm，whosesmall，nearlyentireleavesareusedtomakethedammartorches，andtoformthewater-bucketsinuniversaluse。DuringthiswalkIsawnearadozenspeciesofpalms，aswellastwoorthreePandanidifferentfromthoseofLangundi。TherewerealsosomeveryfineclimbingfernsandtruewildPlantains(Musa)，bearinganediblefruitnotsolargeasone\'sthumb，andconsistingofamassofseedsjustcoveredwithpulpandskin。Thepeopleassuredmetheyhadtriedtheexperimentofsowingandcultivatingthisspecies，butcouldnotimproveit。Theyprobablydidnotgrowitinsufficientquantity，anddidnotperseveresufficientlylong。

BatchianisanislandthatwouldperhapsrepaytheresearchesofabotanistbetterthananyotherinthewholeArchipelago。Itcontainsagreatvarietyofsurfaceandofsoil，abundanceoflargeandsmallstreams，manyofwhicharenavigableforsomedistance，andtherebeingnosavageinhabitants，everypartofitcanbevisitedwithperfectsafety。Itpossessesgold，copper，andcoal，hotspringsandgeysers，sedimentaryandvolcanicrocksandcorallinelimestone，alluvialplains，abrupthillsandloftymountains，amoistclimate，andagrandandluxuriantforestvegetation。

ThefewdaysIstayedhereproducedmeseveralnewinsects，butscarcelyanybirds。Butterfliesandbirdsareinfactremarkablyscarceintheseforests。Onemaywalkawholedayandnotseemorethantwoorthreespeciesofeither。Ineverythingbutbeetles，theseeasternislandsareverydeficientcomparedwiththewestern(Java，Borneo，&c。)，andmuchmoresoifcomparedwiththeforestsofSouthAmerica，wheretwentyorthirtyspeciesofbutterfliesmaybecaughteveryday，andonverygooddaysahundred，anumberwecanhardlyreachhereinmonthsofunremittingsearch。Inbirdsthereisthesamedifference。InmostpartsoftropicalAmericawemayalwaysfindsomespeciesofwoodpeckertanager，bushshrike，chatterer，trogon，toucan，cuckoo，andtyrant-flycatcher；andafewdays\'activesearchwillproducemorevarietythancanbeheremetwithinasmanymonths。

Yet，alongwiththispovertyofindividualsandofspecies，thereareinalmosteveryclassandorder，someone，ortwospeciesofsuchextremebeautyorsingularity，astoviewith，orevensurpass，anythingthatevenSouthAmericacanproduce。

OneafternoonwhenIwasarrangingmyinsects，andsurroundedbyacrowdofwonderingspectators，Ishowedoneofthemhowtolookatasmallinsectwithahand-lens，whichcausedsuchevidentwonderthatalltherestwantedtoseeittoo。Ithereforefixedtheglassfirmlytoapieceofsoftwoodattheproperfocus，andputunderitalittlespinybeetleofthegenusHispa，andthenpasseditroundforexamination。Theexcitementwasimmense。Somedeclareditwasayardlong；otherswerefrightened，andinstantlydroppedit，andallwereasmuchastonished，andmadeasmuchshoutingandgesticulation，aschildrenatapantomime，orataChristmasexhibitionoftheoxyhydrogenmicroscope。Andallthisexcitementwasproducedbyalittlepocketlens，aninchandahalffocus，andthereforemagnifyingonlyfourorfivetimes，butwhichtotheirunaccustomedeyesappearedtoenlargeahundredfold。

Onthelastdayofmystayhere，oneofmyhunterssucceededinfindingandshootingthebeautifulNicobarpigeon，ofwhichIhadbeensolonginsearch。Noneoftheresidentshadeverseenit，whichshowsthatitisrareandslay。Myspecimenwasafemaleinbeautifulcondition，andtheglassycopperyandgreenofitsplumage，thesnow-whitetailandbeautifulpendentfeathersoftheneck，weregreatlyadmired。IsubsequentlyobtainedaspecimeninNewGuinea；andoncesawitintheKaióaislands。ItisfoundalsoinsomesmallislandsnearMacassar，inothersnearBorneo；andintheNicobarislands，whenceitreceivesitsname。

Itisagroundfeeder，onlygoingupontreestoroost，andisaveryheavyfleshybird。Thismayaccountfarthefactofitsbeingfoundchieflyonverysmallislands，whileinthewesternhalfoftheArchipelago，itseemsentirelyabsentfromthelargerones。Beingagroundfeederitissubjecttotheattacksofcarnivorousquadrupeds，whicharenotfoundintheverysmallislands。ItswidedistributionoverthewholelengthoftheArchipelago；fromextremewesttoeast，ishoweververyextraordinary，since，withtheexceptionofafewofthebirdsofprey，notasinglelandbirdhassowidearange。Ground-feedingbirdsaregenerallydeficientinpowerofextendedflight，andthisspeciesissobulkyandheavythatitappearsatfirstsightquiteunabletoflyamile。Acloserexaminationshows，however，thatitswingsareremarkablylarge，perhapsinproportiontoitssizelargerthanthoseofanyotherpigeon，anditspectoralmusclesareimmense。AfactcommunicatedtomebythesonofmyfriendMr。DuivenbodenofTernate，wouldshowthat，inaccordancewiththesepeculiaritiesofstructure，itpossessesthepowerofflyinglongdistances。Mr。D。establishedanoilfactoryonasmallcoralisland，ahundredmilesnorthofNewGuinea，withnointerveningland。Aftertheislandhadbeensettledayear，andtraversedineverydirection，hissonpaiditavisit；andjustastheschoonerwascomingtoananchor，abirdwasseenflyingfromseawardwhichfellintothewaterexhaustedbeforeitcouldreachtheshore。Aboatwassenttopickitup，anditwasfoundtobeaNicobarpigeon，whichmusthavecomefromNewGuinea，andflownahundredmiles，sincenosuchbirdpreviouslyinhabitedtheisland。

Thisiscertainlyaverycuriouscaseofadaptationtoanunusualandexceptionalnecessity。Thebirddoesnotordinarilyrequiregreatpowersofflight，sinceitlivesintheforest，feedsonfallenfruits，androostsinlowtreeslikeothergroundpigeons。

Themajorityoftheindividuals，therefore，cannevermakefulluseoftheirenormouslypowerfulwings，tilltheexceptionalcaseoccursofanindividualbeingblownouttosea，ordriventoemigratebytheincursionofsomecarnivorousanimal，orthepressureofscarcityoffood。Amodificationexactlyoppositetothatwhichproducedthewinglessbirds(theApteryx，Cassowary，andDodo)，appearstohaveheretakenplace；anditiscuriousthatinbothcasesaninsularhabitatshouldhavebeenthemovingcause。TheexplanationisprobablythesameasthatappliedbyMr。DarwintothecaseoftheMadeirabeetles，manyofwhicharewingless，whilesomeofthewingedoneshavethewingsbetterdevelopedthanthesamespeciesonthecontinent。Itwasadvantageoustotheseinsectseithernevertoflyatall，andthusnotruntheriskofbeingblownouttosea，ortoflysowellastoheableeithertoreturntoland，ortomigratesafelytothecontinent。Padflyingwasworsethannotflyingatall。

So，whileinsuchislandsasNewZealandandMauritiusfarfromallland，itvassaferforaground-feedingbirdnottoflyatall，andtheshort-wingedindividualscontinuallysurviving，preparedthewayforawinglessgroupofbirds；inavastArchipelagothicklystrewnwithislandsandisletsitwasadvantageoustobeableoccasionallytomigrate，aridthusthelongandstrong-wingedvarietiesmaintainedtheirexistencelongest，andultimatelysupplantedallothers，andspreadtheraceoverthewholeArchipelago。

Besidesthispigeon，theonlynewbirdIobtainedduringthetripwasararegoat-sucker(Batrachostomuscrinifrons)，theonlyspeciesofthegenusyetfoundintheMoluccas。AmongmyinsectsthebestweretherarePierisarum，ofarichchromeyellowcolour，withablackborderandremarkablewhiteantenna——perhapstheveryfinestbutterflyofthegenus；andalargeblackwasp-

likeinsect，withimmensejawslikeastag-beetle，whichhasbeennamedMegachilePlutobyMr。B。Smith。Icollectedaboutahundredspeciesofbeetlesquitenewtome，butmostlyveryminute，andalsomanyrareandhandsomeoneswhichIhadalreadyfoundinBatchian。OnthewholeIwastolerablysatisfiedwithmyseventeendays\'excursion，whichwasaveryagreeableone，andenabledmetoseaagooddealoftheisland。Ihadhiredaroomyboat，andbroughtwithmeasmalltableandmyrattanchair。

Theseweregreatcomforts，as，wherevertherewasaroof，Icouldimmediatelyinstalmyself，andworkandeatatease。WhenIcouldnotfindaccommodationonshoreIsleptintheboat，whichwasalwaysdrawnuponthebeachifwestayedforafewdaysatonespot。

OnmyreturntoBatchianIpackedupmycollections，andpreparedformyreturntoTernate。WhenIfirstcameIhadsentbackmyboatbythepilot，withtwoorthreeothermenwhohadbeengladoftheopportunity。InowtookadvantageofaGovernmentboatwhichhadjustarrivedwithriceforthetroops，andobtainedpermissiontoreturninher，andaccordinglystartedonthe13thofApril，havingresidedonlyaweekshortofsixmonthsontheislandofBatchian。Theboatwasoneofthekindcalled"Kora-

kora，"quiteopen，verylow，andaboutfourtonsburthen。Ithadoutriggersofbambooaboutfivefeetoffeachside，whichsupportedabambooplatformextendingthewholelengthofthevessel。Ontheextremeoutsideofthissitthetwentyrowers，whilewithinwasaconvenientpassageforeandaft。Themiddleportionoftheboatwascoveredwithathatch-house，inwhichbaggageandpassengersarestowed；thegunwalewasnotmorethanafootabovewater，andfromthegreattopandsideweight，andgeneralclumsiness，theseboatsaredangerousinheavyweather，andarenotunfrequentlylost。Atrianglemastandmatsailcarriedusonwhenthewindwasfavourable，——which(asusual)itneverwas，although，accordingtothemonsoon，itoughttohavebeen。Ourwater，carriedinbamboos，wouldonlylasttwodays，andasthevoyageoccupiedseven，wehadtotouchatagreatmanyplaces。Thecaptainwasnotveryenergetic，andthemenrowedaslittleastheypleased，orwemighthavereachedTernateinthreedays，havinghadfineweatherandlittlewindalltheway。

Therewereseveralpassengersbesidesmyself：threeorfourJavanesesoldiers，twoconvictswhosetimehadexpired(one，curiouslyenough，beingthemanwhohadstolenmycash-boxandkeys)，theschoolmaster\'swifeandaservantgoingonavisittoTernate，andaChinesetradergoingtobuygoods。Wehadtosleepalltogetherinthecabin，packedprettyclose；buttheyverycivillyallowedmeplentyofroomformymattrass，andwegotonverywelltogether。Therewasalittlecookhouseinthebows，wherewecouldboilourriceandmakeourcoffee，everyoneofcoursebringinghisownprovisions，andarranginghismeal-timesashefoundmostconvenient。Thepassagewouldhavebeenagreeableenoughbutforthedreadful"tom-toms，"orwoodendrums，whicharebeatenincessantlywhilethemenarerowing。Twomenwereengagedconstantlyatthem，makingafearfuldinthewholevoyage。TherowersaremensentbytheSultanofTernate。

Theygetaboutthreepenceaday，andfindtheirownprovisions。

Eachmanhadastrongwooden"betel"box，onwhichhegenerallysat，asleeping-mat，andachangeofclothes——rowingnaked，withonlyasarongorawaistcloth。Theysleepintheirplaces，coveredwiththeirmat，whichkeepsouttherainprettywell。

Theychewbetelorsmokecigarettesincessantly；eatdrysagoandalittlesaltfish；seldomsingwhilerowing，exceptwhenexcitedandwantingtoreachastopping-place，anddonottalkagreatdeal。TheyaremostlyMalays，withasprinklingofAlfurosfromGilolo，andPapuansfromGuebeorWaigiou。

OneafternoonwestayedatMakian；manyofthemenwentonshore，andagreatdealofplantains，bananas，andotherfruitswerebroughtonboard。Wethenwentonalittleway，andintheeveninganchoredagain。Whengoingtobedforthenight，Iputoutmycandle，therebeingstillaglimmeringlampburning，and，missingmyhandkerchief，thoughtIsawitonaboxwhichformedonesideofmybed，andputoutmyhandtotakeit。Iquicklydrewbackonfeelingsomethingcoolandverysmooth，whichmovedasItouchedit。"Bringthelight，quick，"Icried；"here\'sasnake。"Andtherehewas，sureenough，nicelycoiledup，withhisheadjustraisedtoinquirewhohaddisturbedhim。Itwasmownecessarytocatchorkillhimneatly，orhewouldescapeamongthepilesofmiscellaneousluggage，andweshouldhardlysleepcomfortably。Oneoftheex-convictsvolunteeredtocatchhimwithhishandwrappedupinacloth，butfromthewayhewentaboutitIsawhewasnervousandwouldletthethinggo，soIwouldmotallowhimtomaketheattempt。Ithemgotachopping-knife，andcarefullymovingmyinsectnets，whichhungjustoverthesnakeandpreventedmegettingafreeblow，Icuthimquietlyacrosstheback，holdinghimdownwhilemyboywithanotherknifecrushedhishead。Onexamination，Ifoundhehadlargepoisonfangs，anditisawonderhedidnotbitemewhenIfirsttouchedhim。

Thinkingitveryunlikelythattwosnakeshadgotonboardatthesametime，Iturnedinandwenttosleep；buthavingallthetimeavaguedreamyideathatImightputmyhandonanotherone，I

laywonderfullystill，notturningoveronceallnight，quitethereverseofmyusualhabits。ThenextdaywereachedTernate，andIensconcedmyselfinmycomfortablehouse，toexamineallmytreasures，andpackthemsecurelyforthevoyagehome。

CHAPTERXXV。

CERAM，GORAM，ANDTHEMATABELLOISLANDS。

(OCTOBER1859ToJUNE1860。)

ILEFTAmboynaformyfirstvisittoCeramatthreeo\'clockinthemorningofOctober29th，afterhavingbeendelayedseveraldaysbytheboat\'screw，whocouldnotbegottogether。CaptainVanderBeck，whogavemeapassageinhisboat，hadbeenrunningafterthemallday，andatmidnightwehadtosearchfortwoofmymenwhohaddisappearedatthelastmoment。Onewefoundatsupperinhisownhouse，andrathertipsywithhispartinglibationsofarrack，buttheotherwasgoneacrossthebay，andwewereobligedtoleavewithouthim。WestayedsomehoursattwovillagesneartheeastendofAmboyna，atoneofwhichwehadtodischargesomewoodforthemissionaries\'house，andonthethirdafternoonreachedCaptainVanderBeck\'splantation，situatedatHatosua，inthatpartofCeramoppositetotheislandofAmboyna。

Thiswasaclearinginflatandratherswampyforest，abouttwentyacresinextent，andmostlyplantedwithcacaoandtobacco。Besidesasmallcottageoccupiedbytheworkmen，therewasalargeshedfortobaccodrying，acornerofwhichwasofferedme；andthinkingfromthelookoftheplacethatIshouldfind-goodcollectinggroundhere，Ifitteduptemporarytables，benches，andbeds，andmadeallpreparationsforsomeweeks\'

stay。Afewdays，however，servedtoshowthatIshouldbedisappointed。Beetlesweretolerablyabundant，andIobtainedplentyoffinelong-hornedAnthribidaeandprettyLongicorns，buttheyweremostlythesamespeciesasIhadfoundduringmyfirstshortvisittoAmboyna。Therewereveryfewpathsintheforest；

whichseemedpoorinbirdsandbutterflies，anddayafterdaymymenbroughtmenothingworthnotice。Iwasthereforesoonobligedtothinkaboutchangingmylocality，asIcouldevidentlyobtainnopropernotionoftheproductionsofthealmostentirelyunexploredislandofCerambystayinginthisplace。

Iratherregrettedleaving，becausemyhostwasoneofthemostremarkablemenandmostentertainingcompanionsIhadevermetwith。HewasaFleetingbybirth，and，likesomanyofhiscountrymen，hadawonderfultalentforlanguages。WhenquiteayouthhehadaccompaniedaGovernmentofficialwhowassenttoreportonthetradeandcommerceoftheMediterranean，andhadacquiredthecolloquiallanguageofeveryplacetheystayedafewweeksat。HehadafterwardsmadevoyagestoSt。Petersburg，andtootherpartsofEurope，includingafewweeksinLondon，andhadthencomeouttothepast，wherehehadbeenforsomeyearstradingandspeculatinginthevariousislands。HenowspokeDutch，French，Malay，andJavanese，allequallywell；Englishwithaveryslightaccent，butwithperfectfluency，axedamostcompleteknowledgeofidiom，inwhichIoftentriedtopuzzlehiminvain。GermanandItalianwerealsoquitefamiliartohim，andhisacquaintancewithEuropeanlanguagesincludedModernGreek，Turkish，Russian，andcolloquialHebrewandLatin。Asatestofhispower，Imaymentionthathehadmadeavoyagetotheout-of-

the-wayislandofSalibaboo，andhadstayedtheretradingafewweeks。AsIwascollectingvocabularies，hetoldmehethoughthecouldremembersomewords，anddictatedconsiderablenumber。SometimeafterImetwithashortlistofwordstakendowninthoseislands，andineverycasetheyagreedwiththosehehadgivenme。HeusedtosingaHebrewdrinking-song，whichhehadlearnedfromsomeJewswithwhomhehadoncetravelled，andastonishedbyjoiningintheirconversation，andhadanever-endingfundoftaleandanecdoteaboutthepeoplehehadmetandtheplaceshehadvisited。

InmostofthevillagesofthispartofCeramareschoolsandnativeschoolmasters，andtheinhabitantshavebeenlongconvertedtoChristianity。InthelargervillagesthereareEuropeanmissionaries；butthereislittleornoexternaldifferencebetweentheChristianandAlfurovillages，nor，asfarasIhaveseen，intheirinhabitants。ThepeopleseemmoredecidedlyPapuanthanthoseofGilolo。Theyaredarkerincolour，andanumberofthemhavethefrizzlyPapuanhair；theirfeaturesalsoareharshandprominent，andthewomeninparticulararefarlessengagingthanthoseoftheMalayrace。CaptainVanderBeckwasnevertiredofabusingtheinhabitantsoftheseChristianvillagesasthieves，liars，anddrunkards，besidesbeingincorrigiblylazy。InthecityofAmboynamyfriendsDoctorsMohnikeandDoleschall，aswellasmostoftheEuropeanresidentsandtraders，madeexactlythesamecomplaint，andwouldratherhaveMahometansforservants，evenifconvicts，thananyofthenativeChristians。Onegreatcauseofthisisthefact，thatwiththeMahometanstemperanceisapartoftheirreligion，andhasbecomesomuchahabitthatpracticallytheruleisnevertransgressed。Onefertilesourceofwant，aridonegreatincentivetoidlenessandcrime，isthuspresentwiththeoneclass，butabsentintheother；butbesidesthistheChristianslookuponthemselvesasnearlytheequalsoftheEuropeans，whoprofessthesamereligion，andasfarsuperiortothefollowersofIslam，andarethereforepronetodespisework，andtoendeavourtolivebytrade，orbycultivatingtheirownland。Itneedhardlybesaidthatwithpeopleinthislowstateofcivilizationreligionisalmostwhollyceremonial，andthatneitherarethedoctrinesofChristianitycomprehended，noritsmoralpreceptsobeyed。Atthesametime，asfarasmyownexperiencegoes，Ihavefoundthebetterclassof"OrangSirani"

ascivil，obliging，andindustriousastheMalays，andonlyinferiortothemfromtheirtendencytogetintoxicated。

HavingwrittentotheAssistantResidentofSaparua(whohasjurisdictionovertheoppositepartofthecoastofCeram)foraboattopursuemyjourney，Ireceivedoneratherlargerthannecessarywithacrewoftwentymen。IthereforebadeadieutomykindfriendCaptainVanderBeck，andleftontheeveningafteritsarrivalforthevillageofElpiputi，whichwereachedintwodays。Ihadintendedtostayhere，butnotlikingtheappearanceoftheplace，whichseemedtohavenovirginforestnearit，I

determinedtoproceedabouttwelvemilesfurtherupthebayofAmahay，toavillagerecentlyformed，andinhabitedbyindigenesfromtheinterior，andwheresomeextensivecacaoplantationswerebeingmadebysomegentlemenofAmboyna。Ireachedtheplace(calledAwaiya)thesameafternoon，andwiththeassistanceofMr。Peters(themanageroftheplantations)andthenativechief，obtainedasmallhouse，gotallmythingsonshore，andpaidanddischargedmytwentyboatmen，twoofwhomhadalmostdrivenmetodistractionbybeatingtom-tomsthewholevoyage。

Ifoundthepeoplehereverynearlyinastateofnature，andgoingalmostnaked。Themenweartheirfrizzlyhairgatheredintoaflatcircularknotoverthelefttemple，whichhasaveryknowinglook，andintheirearscylindersofwoodasthickasone\'sfinger，andcolouredredattheends。Armletsandankletsofwovengrassorofsilver，withnecklacesofbeadsorofsmallfruits，completetheirattire。Thewomenwearsimilarornaments，buthavetheirhairloose。Allaretall，withadarkbrownskin，andwellmarkedPapuanphysiognomy。ThereisanAmboynaschoolmasterinthevillage，andagoodnumberofchildrenattendschooleverymorning。SuchoftheinhabitantsashavebecomeChristiansmaybeknownbytheirwearingtheirhairloose，andadoptingtosomeextentthenativeChristiandress-trousersandalooseshirt。VeryfewspeakMalay，allthesecoastvillageshavingbeenrecentlyformedbyinducingnativestoleavetheinaccessibleinterior。InallthecentralpartofCeramtherenewremainsonlyonepopulousvillageinthemountains。Towardstheeastandtheextremewestareafewothers，withwhichexceptionsalltheinhabitantsofCeramarecollectedonthecoast。InthenorthernandeasterndistrictstheyaremostlyMahometans，whileonthesouthwestcoast，nearestAmboyna，theyarenominalChristians。InallthispartoftheArchipelagotheDutchmakeverypraiseworthyeffortstoimprovetheconditionoftheaboriginesbyestablishingschoolmastersineveryvillage(whoaremostlynativesofAmboynaorSaparua，whohave；beeninstructedbytheresidentmissionaries)，andbyemployingnativevaccinatorstopreventtheravagesofsmallpox。TheyalsoencouragethesettlementofEuropeans，andtheformationofnewplantationsofcacaoandcoffee，oneofthebestmeansofraisingtheconditionofthenatives，whothusobtainworkatfairwages，andhavetheopportunityofacquiringsomethingofEuropeantastesandhabits。

Mycollectionsheredidnotprogressmuchbetterthanatmyformerstation，exceptthatbutterflieswerealittlemoreplentiful，andsomeveryfinespeciesweretobefoundinthemorningonthesea-beach，sittingsoquietlyonthewetsandthattheycouldbecaughtwiththefingers。InthiswayIhadmanyfinespecimensofPapiliosbroughtmebythechildren。Beetles，however，werescarce，andbirdsstillmoreso，andIbegantothinkthatthehandsomespecieswhichIhadsooftenheardwerefoundinCerammustbeentirelyconfinedtotheeasternextremityoftheisland。

Afewmilesfurtherworth，attheheadoftheBayofAmahay，issituatedthevillageofMakariki，fromwhencethereisanativepathquiteacrosstheislandtothenorthcoast。MyfriendMr。

Rosenberg，whoseacquaintanceIhadmadeatNewGuinea，andwhowasnowtheGovernmentsuperintendentofallthispartofCeram，returnedfromWahai，onthenorthcoast，afterIhadbeenthreeweeksatAwaiya，andshowedmesomefinebutterflieshehadobtainedonthemountainstreamsintheinterior。HeindicatedaspotaboutthecentreoftheislandwherehethoughtImightadvantageouslystayafewdays。IaccordinglyvisitedMakarikiwithhimthenextday，andheinstructedthechiefofthevillagetofurnishmewithmentocarrymybaggage，andaccompanymeonmyexcursion。AsthepeopleofthevillagewantedtobeathomeonChristmas-day，itwasnecessarytostartassoonaspossible；

soweagreedthatthemenshouldbereadyintwodays，andI

returnedtomakemyarrangements。

Iputupthesmallestquantityofbaggagepossibleforasixdays\'trip，andonthemorningofDecember18thweleftMakariki，withsixmencarryingmybaggageandtheirownprovisions，andaladfromAwaiya，whowasaccustomedtocatchbutterfliesforme。

MytwoAmboynahuntersIleftbehindtoshootandskinwhatbirdstheycouldwhileIwasaway。Quittingthevillage，wefirstwalkedbrisklyforanhourthroughadensetangledundergrowth，drippingwetfromastormofthepreviousnight，andfullofmudholes。AftercrossingseveralsmallstreamswereachedoneofthelargestriversinCeram，calledRuatan，whichitwasnecessarytocross。Itwasbothdeepandrapid。Thebaggagewasfirsttakenover，parcelbyparcel，onthemen\'sheads，thewaterreachingnearlyuptotheirarmpits，andthentwomenreturnedtoassistme。Thewaterwasabovemywaist，andsostrongthatIshouldcertainlyhavebeencarriedoffmyfeethadIattemptedtocrossalone；anditwasamatterofastonishmenttomehowthemencouldgivemeanyassistance，sinceIfoundthegreatestdifficultyingettingmyfootdownagainwhenIhadoncemoveditoffthebottom。Thegreaterstrengthandgraspingpoweroftheirfeet，fromgoingalwaysbarefoot，nodoubtgavethemasurerfootingintherapidwater。

Afterwellwringingoutourwetclothesandputtingthemon，weagainproceededalongasimilarnarrowforesttrackasbefore，chokedwithrottenleavesanddeadtrees，andinthemoreopenpartsovergrownwithtangledvegetation。Anotherhourbroughtustoasmallerstreamflowinginawidegravellybed，upwhichourroadlay。Herewestayedhalfanhourtobreakfast，andthenwenton，continuallycrossingthestream，orwalkingonitsstonyandgravellybanks，tillaboutnoon，whenitbecamerockyandenclosedbylowhills。Alittlefurtherweenteredaregularmountain-gorge，andhadtoclamberoverrocks，andeverymomentcrossandrecrossthewater，ortakeshortcutsthroughtheforest。Thiswasfatiguingwork；andaboutthreeintheafternoon，theskybeingovercast，andthunderinthemountainsindicatinganapproachingstorm，wehadtoloonoutforacampingplace，andsoonafterreachedoneofMr。Rosenberg\'soldones。

Theskeletonofhislittlesleeping-hutremained，andmymencutleavesandmadeahastyroofjustastheraincommenced。Thebaggagewascoveredoverwithleaves，andthemenshelteredthemselvesastheycouldtillthestormwasover，bywhichtimeafloodcamedowntheriver，whicheffectuallystoppedourfurthermarch，evenhadwewishedtoproceed。Wethenlightedfires；I

madesomecoffee，andmymenroastedtheirfishandplantains，andassoonasitwasdark，wemadeourselvescomfortableforthenight。

Startingatsixthenextmorning，wehadthreehoursofthesamekindofwalking，duringwhichwecrossedtheriveratleastthirtyorfortytimes，thewaterbeinggenerallyknee-deep。Thisbroughtustoaplacewheretheroadleftthestream，andherewestoppedtobreakfast。Wethenhadalongwalkoverthemountain，byatolerablepath，whichreachedanelevationofaboutfifteenhundredfeetabovethesea。HereInoticedoneofthesmallestandmosteleganttreefernsIhadeverseen，thestembeingscarcelythickerthanmythumb，yetreachingaheightoffifteenortwentyfeet。IalsocaughtanewbutterflyofthegenusPieris，andamagnificentfemalespecimenofPapiliogambrisius，ofwhichIhadhithertoonlyfoundthemales，whicharesmallerandverydifferentincolour。Descendingtheothersideoftheridge，byaverysteeppath，wereachedanotherriverataspotwhichisaboutthecentreoftheisland，andwhichwastobeourrestingplacefortwoorthreedays。Inacoupleofhourmymenhadbuiltalittlesleeping-shedforme，abouteightfeetbyfour，withabenchofsplitpoles，theythemselvesoccupyingtwoorthreesmallerones，whichhadbeenputupbyformerpassengers。

Theriverherewasabouttwentyyardswide，runningoverapebblyandsometimesarockybed，andborderedbysteephillswithoccasionallyflatswampyspotsbetweentheirbaseandthestream。

Thewholecountrywasonedense，Unbroken，andverydampandgloomyvirginforest。Justatourresting-placetherewasalittlebush-coveredislandinthemiddleofthechannel，sothattheopeningintheforestmadebytheriverwaswiderthanusual，andallowedafewgleamsofsunshinetopenetrate。Heretherewereseveralhandsomebutterfliesflyingabout，thefinestofwhich，however，escapedme，andIneversawitagainduringmystay。Inthetwodaysandahalfwhichweremainedhere，I

wanderedalmostalldayupanddownthestream，searchingafterbutterflies，ofwhichIgot，inall，fiftyorsixtyspecimens，withseveralspeciesquitenewtome。ThereweremanyotherswhichIsawonlyonce，anddidnotcapture，causingmetoregretthattherewasnovillageintheseinteriorvalleyswhereIcouldstayamonth。IntheearlypartofeachmorningIwentoutwithmyguninsearchofbirds，andtwoofmymenwereoutalmostalldayafterdeer；butwewereallequallyunsuccessful，gettingabsolutelynothingthewholetimewewereintheforest。TheonlygoodbirdseenwasthefineAmboynalory，butthesewerealwaystoohightoshoot；besidesthis，thegreatMoluccanhornbill，whichIdidnotwant，wasalmosttheonlybirdmetwith。Isawnotasingleground-thrush，orkingfisher，orpigeon；and，infact，haveneverbeeninaforestsoutterlydesertofanimallifeasthisappearedtobe。Eveninallothergroupsofinsects，exceptbutterflies，therewasthesamepoverty。Ibadhopedtofindsomeraretigerbeetles，asIhaddoneinsimilarsituationsinCelebes；but，thoughIsearchedcloselyinforest，river-bed，andmountain-brook，IcouldfindnothingbutthetwocommonAmboynaspecies。Otherbeetlestherewereabsolutelynone。

Theconstantwalkinginwater，andoverrocksandpebbles，quitedestroyedthetwopairofshoesIbroughtwithme，sothat，onmyreturn，theyactuallyfelltopieces，andthelastdayIhadtowalkinmystockingsverypainfully，andreachedhomequitelame。

OnourwaybackfromMakariki，asonourwaythere，wehadstormandrainatsea，andwearrivedatAwaiyalateintheevening，withallourbaggagedrenched，andourselvesthoroughlyuncomfortable。AllthetimeIhadbeeninCeramIhadsufferedmuchfromtheirritatingbitesofaninvisibleacarus，whichisworsethanmosquitoes，ants，andeveryotherpest，becauseitisimpossibletoguardagainstthem。Thislastjourneyintheforestleftmecoveredfromheadtofootwithinflamedlumps，which，aftermyreturntoAmboyna，producedaseriousdisease，confiningmetothehousefornearlytwomonths，anotverypleasantmementoofmyfirstvisittoCeram，whichterminatedwiththeyear1859。

Itwasnottillthe24thofFebruary，1860，thatIstartedagain，intendingtopassfromvillagetovillagealongthecoast，stayingwhereIfoundasuitablelocality。IhadaletterfromtheGovernoroftheMoluccas，requestingallthechiefstosupplymewithboatsandmentocarrymeonmyjourney。ThefirstboattookmeintwodaystoAmahay，ontheoppositesideofthebaytoAwaiya。Thechiefhere，wonderfultorelate，didnotmakeanyexcusesfordelay，butimmediatelyorderedouttheboatwhichwastocarrymeon，putmybaggageonhoard，setupmastandsailsafterdark，andhadthemenreadythatnigh；sothatwewereactuallyonourwayatfivethenextmorning，——adisplayofenergyandactivityIscarcelyeversawbeforeinanativechiefonsuchanoccasion。WetouchedatCepa，andstayedforthenightatTamilan，thefirsttwoMahometanvillagesonthesouthcoastofCeram。Thenextday，aboutnoon，wereachedHoya，whichwasasFarasmypresentboatandcrewweregoingtotakeme。Theanchorageisaboutamileeastofthevillage，whichisfacedbycoralreefs，andwehadtowaitfortheeveningtidetomoveupandunloadtheboatintothestrangerottenwoodenpavilionkeptforvisitors。

Therewasnoboatherelargeenoughtotakemybaggage；andalthoughtwowouldhavedoneverywell，theRajahinsisteduponsendingfour。ThereasonofthisIfoundwas，thattherewerefoursmallvillagesunderhisrule，andbysendingaboatfromeachhewouldavoidthedifficulttaskofchoosingtwoandlettingofftheothers。IwastoldthatatthenextvillageofTelutitherewereplentyofAlfuros，andthatIcouldgetabundanceofToriesandotherbirds。TheRajahdeclaredthatblackandyellowToriesandblackcockatooswerefoundthere；butIaminclinedtothinkheknewverywellhewastellingmelies，andthatitwasonlyaschemetosatisfymewithhisplanoftakingmetothatvillage，insteadofaday\'sjourneyfurtheron，asIdesired。Here，asatmostofthevillages，Iwasaskedforspirits，thepeoplebeingmerenominalMahometans，whoconfinetheirreligionalmostentirelytoadisgustatpork，andafewotherforbiddenarticlesoffood。Thenextmorning，aftermuchtrouble，wegotourcargoesloaded，andhadadelightfulrowacrossthedeepbayofTeluti，withaviewofthegrandcentralmountain-rangeofCeram。Ourfourboatswererowedbysixtymen，withflagsflyingandtom-tomsbeating，aswellasveryvigorousshoutingandsingingtokeepuptheirspirits。Theseawaysmooth，themorningbright，andthewholesceneveryexhilarating。Onlanding，theOrang-kayaandseveralofthechiefmen，ingorgeoussilkjackets，werewaitingtoreceiveus，andconductedmetoahousepreparedformyreception，whereI

determinedtostayafewdays，andseeifthecountryroundproducedanythingnew。