第7章

Inthemoreshadypartsbutterfliesweretolerablyabundant；themostcommonbeingspeciesofEuplaeaandDanais，whichfrequentgardensandshrubberies，andowingtotheirweakflightareeasilycaptured。Abeautifulpaleblueandblackbutterfly，whichfluttersalongnearthegroundamongthethickets，andsettlesoccasionallyuponflowers，wasoneofthemoststriking；andscarcelylessso，wasonewitharichorangebandonablackishground——thesebothbelongtothePieridae，thegroupthatcontainsourcommonwhitebutterflies，althoughdifferingsomuchfromtheminappearance。BothwerequitenewtoEuropeannaturalists。[TheformerhasbeennamedEroniatritaea；thelatterTachyrisithonae。]NowandthenIextendedmywalkssomemilesfurther，totheonlypatchoftrueforestIcouldfind，accompaniedbymytwoboyswithgunsandinsect-net。Weusedtostartearly，takingourbreakfastwithus，andeatingitwhereverwecouldfindshadeandwater。AtsuchtimesmyMacassarboyswouldputaminutefragmentofriceandmeatorfishonaleaf，andlayitonastoneorstumpasanofferingtothedeityofthespot；forthoughnominalMahometanstheMacassarpeopleretainmanypagansuperstitions，andarebutlaxintheirreligiousobservances。Pork，itistrue，theyholdinabhorrence，butwillnotrefusewinewhenofferedthem，andconsumeimmensequantitiesof"sagueir，"orpalm-wine，whichisaboutasintoxicatingasordinarybeerorcider。Whenwellmadeitisaveryrefreshingdrink，andweoftentookadraughtatsomeofthelittleshedsdignifiedbythenameofbazaars，whicharescatteredaboutthecountrywhereverthereisanytraffic。

OnedayMr。Mesmantoldmeofalargerpieceofforestwherehesometimeswenttoshootdeer，butheassuredmeitwasmuchfurtheroff，andthattherewerenobirds。However，Iresolvedtoexploreit，andthenextmorningatfiveo\'clockwestarted，carryingourbreakfastandsomeotherprovisionswithus，andintendingtostaythenightatahouseonthebordersofthewood。Tomysurprisetwohours\'hardwalkingbroughtustothishouse，whereweobtainedpermissiontopassthenight。Wethenwalkedon，AliandBaderoonwithaguneach，Pasocarryingourprovisionsandmyinsect-box，whileItookonlymynetandcollecting-bottleanddeterminedtodevotemyselfwhollytotheinsects。ScarcelyhadIenteredtheforestwhenIfoundsomebeautifullittlegreenandgoldspeckledweevilsalliedtothegenusPachyrhynchus，agroupwhichisalmostconfinedtothePhilippineIslands，andisquiteunknowninBorneo，Java，orMalacca。Theroadwasshadyandapparentlymuchtroddenbyhorsesandcattle，andIquicklyobtainedsomebutterfliesIhadnotbeforemetwith。Soonacoupleofreportswereheard，andcominguptomyboysIfoundtheyhadshottwospecimensofoneofthefinestofknowncuckoos，Phoenicophauscallirhynchus。Thisbirdderivesitsnamefromitslargebillbeingcolouredofabrilliantyellow，red，andblack，inaboutequalproportions。Thetailisexceedinglylong，andofafinemetallicpurple，whiletheplumageofthebodyislightcoffeebrown。ItisoneofthecharacteristicbirdsoftheislandofCelebes，towhichitisconfined。

Aftersaunteringalongforacoupleofhourswereachedasmallriver，sodeepthathorsescouldonlycrossitbyswimming，sowehadtoturnback；butasweweregettinghungry，andthewaterofthealmoststagnantriverwastoomuddytodrink，wewenttowardsahouseafewhundredyardsoff。Intheplantationwesawasmallraisedhut，whichwethoughtwoulddowellforustobreakfastin，soIentered，andfoundinsideayoungwomanwithaninfant。

Shehandedmeajugofwater，butlookedverymuchfrightened。

However，Isatdownonthedoorstep，andaskedfortheprovisions。Inhandingthemup，Baderoonsawtheinfant，andstartedbackasifhehadseenaserpent。Itthenimmediatelystruckmethatthiswasahutinwhich，asamongtheDyaksofBorneoandmanyothersavagetribes，thewomenaresecludedforsometimeafterthebirthoftheirchild，andthatwedidverywrongtoenterit；sowewalkedoffandaskedpermissiontoeatourbreakfastinthefamilymansioncloseathand，whichwasofcoursegranted。WhileIate，threemen，twowomen，andfourchildrenwatchedeverymotion，andnevertookeyesoffmeuntilI

hadfinished。

Onourwaybackintheheatoftheday，IhadthegoodfortunetocapturethreespecimensofafineOrnithoptera，thelargest，themostperfect，andthemostbeautifulofbutterflies。ItrembledwithexcitementasItookthefirstoutofmynetandfoundittobeinperfectcondition。Thegroundcolourofthissuperbinsectwasarichshiningbronzyblack，thelowerwingsdelicatelygrainedwithwhite，andborderedbyarowoflargespotsofthemostbrilliantsatinyyellow。Thebodywasmarkedwithshadedspotsofwhite，yellow，andfieryorange，whiletheheadandthoraxwereintenseblack。Ontheunder-sidethelowerwingsweresatinywhite，withthemarginalspotshalfblackandhalfyellow。

Igazeduponmyprizewithextremeinterest，asIatfirstthoughtitwasquiteanewspecies。ItprovedhowevertobeavarietyofOrnithopteraremus，oneoftherarestandmostremarkablespeciesofthishighlyesteemedgroup。Ialsoobtainedseveralothernewandprettybutterflies。Whenwearrivedatourlodging-house，beingparticularlyanxiousaboutmyinsecttreasures，IsuspendedtheboxfromabambooonwhichIcoulddetectnosignofants，andthenbeganskinningsomeofmybirds。

DuringmyworkIoftenglancedatmypreciousboxtoseethatnointrudershadarrived，untilafteralongerspellofworkthanusualIlookedagain，andsawtomyhorrorthatacolumnofsmallredantsweredescendingthestringandenteringthebox。Theywerealreadybusyatworkatthebodiesofmytreasures，andanotherhalf-hourwouldhaveseenmywholeday\'scollectiondestroyed。Asitwas，Ihadtotakeeveryinsectout，cleanthemthoroughlyaswellasthebox，andthenseekaplaceofsafetyforthem。Astheonlyeffectualone，Ibeggedaplateandabasinfrommyhost，filledtheformerwithwater，andstandingthelatterinitplacedmyboxonthetop，andthenfeltsecureforthenight；afewinchesofcleanwateroroilbeingtheonlybarriertheseterriblepestsarenotabletopass。

OnreturninghometoMamajam(asmyhousewascalled)Ihadaslightreturnofintermittentfever，whichkeptmesomedaysindoors。AssoonasIwaswell，IagainwenttoGoa，accompaniedbyMr。Mesman，tobegtheRajah\'sassistanceingettingasmallhousebuiltformeneartheforest。Wefoundhimatacock-fightinashednearhispalace，whichhowever，heimmediatelylefttoreceiveus，andwalkedwithusupaninclinedplaneofboardswhichservesforstairstohishouse。Thiswaslarge，well-built，andlofty，withbamboofloorandglasswindows。Thegreaterpartofitseemedtobeonelargehalldividedbythesupportingposts。NearawindowsattheQueen，squattingonaroughwoodenarm-chair，chewingtheeverlastingsirihandbetel-nut，whileabrassspittoonbyhersideandasirih-boxinfrontwerereadytoadministertoherwants。TheRajahseatedhimselfoppositetoherinasimilarchair，andasimilarspittoonandsirih-boxwereheldbyalittleboysquattingathisside。Twootherchairswerebroughtforus。Severalyoungwomen，sometheRajah\'sdaughters，othersslaves，werestandingabout；afewwereworkingatframesmakingsarongs，butmostofthemwereidle。

AndhereImight(ifIfollowedtheexampleofmosttravellers)

launchoutintoaglowingdescriptionofthecharmsofthesedamsels，theelegantcostumestheywore，andthegoldandsilverornamentswithwhichtheywereadorned。Thejacketorbodyofpurplegauzewouldfigurewellinsuchadescription，allowingtheheavingbosomtobeseenbeneathit，while"sparklingeyes，"

and"jettytresses，"and"tinyfeet"mightbethrowninprofusely。But，alas！regardfortruthwillnotpermitmetoexpatiatetooadmiringlyonsuchtopics，determinedasIamtogiveasfarasIcanatruepictureofthepeopleandplacesI

visit。Theprincesseswere，itistrue，sufficientlygood-

looking，yetneithertheirpersonsnortheirgarmentshadthatappearanceoffreshnessandcleanlinesswithoutwhichnoothercharmscanbecontemplatedwithpleasure。Everythinghadadingyandfadedappearance，verydisagreeableandunroyaltoaEuropeaneye。TheonlythingthatexcitedsomedegreeofadmirationwasthequietanddignifiedmanneroftheRajahandthegreatrespectalwayspaidtohim。Nonecanstanderectinhispresence，andwhenhesitsonachair，allpresent(Europeansofcourseexcepted)squatupontheground。Thehighestseatisliterally，withthesepeople，theplaceofhonourandthesignofrank。Sounbendingaretherulesinthisrespect，thatwhenanEnglishcarriagewhichtheRajahofLombockbadsentforarrived，itwasfoundimpossibletouseitbecausethedriver\'sseatwasthehighest，andithadtobekeptasashowinitscoachhouse。Onbeingtoldtheobjectofmyvisit，theRajahatoncesaidthathewouldorderahousetobeemptiedforme，whichwouldbemuchbetterthanbuildingone，asthatwouldtakeagooddealoftime。

Badcoffeeandsweetmeatsweregivenusasbefore。

Twodaysafterwards，IcalledontheRajahtoaskhimtosendaguidewithmetoshowmethehouseIwastooccupy。Heimmediatelyorderedamantobesentfor，gavehiminstructions，andinafewminuteswewereonourway。MyconductorcouldspeaknoMalay，sowewalkedoninsilenceforanhour，whenweturnedintoaprettygoodhouseandIwasaskedtositdown。Theheadmanofthedistrictlivedhere，andinabouthalfanhourwestartedagain，andanotherhour\'swalkbroughtustothevillagewhereIwastobelodged。Wewenttotheresidenceofthevillagechief，whoconversedwithmyconductorforsometime。

Gettingtired，Iaskedtobeshownthehousethatwaspreparedforme，buttheonlyreplyIcouldgetwas，"Waitalittle，"andthepartieswentontalkingasbefore。SoItoldthemIcouldnotwait，asIwantedtoseethehouseandthentogoshootingintheforest。Thisseemedtopuzzlethem，andatlength，inanswertoquestions，verypoorlyexplainedbyoneortwobystanderswhoknewalittleMalay，itcameoutthatnohousewasready，andnooneseemedtohavetheleastideawheretogetone。AsIdidnotwanttotroubletheRajahanymore，Ithoughtitbesttotrytofrightenthemalittle；soItoldthemthatiftheydidnotimmediatelyfindmeahouseastheRajahhadordered，Ishouldgobackandcomplaintohim，butthatifahousewasfoundmeI

wouldpayfortheuseofit。Thishadthedesiredeffect，andoneoftheheadmenofthevillageaskedmetogowithhimandlookforahouse。Heshowedmeoneortwoofthemostmiserableandruinousdescription，whichIatoncerejected，saying，"Imusthaveagoodone，andneartotheforest。"Thenextheshowedmesuitedverywell，soItoldhimtoseethatitwasemptiedthenextday，forthatthedayafterIshouldcomeandoccupyit。

Onthedaymentioned，asIwasnotquitereadytogo，IsentmytwoMacassarboyswithbroomstosweepoutthehousethoroughly。

Theyreturnedintheeveningandtoldmethatwhentheygottherethehousewasinhabited，andnotasinglearticleremoved。

However，onhearingtheyhadcometocleanandtakepossession，theoccupantsmadeamove，butwithagooddealofgrumbling，whichmademefeelratheruneasyastohowthepeoplegenerallymighttakemyintrusionintotheirvillage。Thenextmorningwetookourbaggageonthreepackhorses，and，afterafewbreak-

downs，arrivedaboutnoonatourdestination。

Aftergettingallmythingssetstraight，andhavingmadeahastymeal，Ideterminedifpossibletomakefriendswiththepeople。I

thereforesentfortheownerofthehouseandasmanyofhisacquaintancesaslikedtocome，tohavea"bitchara，"ortalk。

Whentheywereallseated，Igavethemalittletobaccoallaround，andhavingmyboyBaderoonforinterpreter，triedtoexplaintothemwhyIcamethere；thatIwasverysorrytoturnthemoutofthehouse，butthattheRajahhadordereditratherthanbuildanewone，whichwaswhatIhadaskedfor，andthenplacedfivesilverrupeesintheowner\'shandasonemonth\'srent。Ithenassuredthemthatmybeingtherewouldbeabenefittothem，asIshouldbuytheireggsandfowlsandfruit；andiftheirchildrenwouldbringmeshellsandinsects，ofwhichI

showedthemspecimens，theyalsomightearnagoodmanycoppers。

Afterallthishadbeenfullyexplainedtothem，withalongtalkanddiscussionbetweeneverysentence，IcouldseethatIhadmadeafavourableimpression；andthatveryafternoon，asiftotestmypromisetobuyevenmiserablelittlesnail-shells，adozenchildrencameoneafteranother，bringingmeafewspecimenseachofasmallHelix，forwhichtheydulyreceived"coppers，"andwentawayamazedbutrejoicing。

Afewdays\'explorationmademewellacquaintedwiththesurroundingcountry。IwasalongwayfromtheroadintheforestwhichIhadfirstvisited，andforsomedistancearoundmyhousewereoldclearingsandcottages。Ifoundafewgoodbutterflies，butbeetleswereveryscarce，andevenrottentimberandnewly-

felledtrees(generallysoproductive)hereproducedscarcelyanything。Thisconvincedmethattherewasnotasufficientextentofforestintheneighbourhoodtomaketheplaceworthstayingatlong，butitwastoolatenowtothinkofgoingfurther，asinaboutamonththewetseasonwouldbegin；soI

resolvedtostayhereandgetwhatwastobehad。Unfortunately，afterafewdaysIbecameillwithalowfeverwhichproducedexcessivelassitudeanddisinclinationtoallexertion。InvainI

endeavouredtoshakeitoff；allIcoulddowastostrollquietlyeachdayforanhouraboutthegardensnear，andtothewell，wheresomegoodinsectswereoccasionallytobefound；andtherestofthedaytowaitquietlyathome，andreceivewhatbeetlesandshellsmylittlecorpsofcollectorsbroughtmedaily。I

imputedmyillnesschieflytothewater，whichwasprocuredfromshallowwells，aroundwhichtherewasalmostalwaysastagnantpuddleinwhichthebuffaloeswallowed。Closetomyhousewasanenclosedmudholewherethreebuffaloeswereshutupeverynight，andtheeffluviafromwhichfreelyenteredthroughtheopenbamboofloor。MyMalayboyAliwasaffectedwiththesameillness，andashewasmychiefbird-skinnerIgotonbutslowlywithmycollections。

TheoccupationsandmodeoflifeofthevillagersdifferedbutlittlefromthoseofallotherMalayraces。Thetimeofthewomenwasalmostwhollyoccupiedinpoundingandcleaningricefordailyuse，inbringinghomefirewoodandwater，andincleaning，dyeing，spinning，andweavingthenativecottonintosarongs。Theweavingisdoneinthesimplestkindofframestretchedonthefloor；andisaveryslowandtediousprocess。Toformthecheckedpatternincommonuse，eachpatchofcolouredthreadshastobepulledupseparatelybyhandandtheshuttlepassedbetweenthem；sothataboutaninchadayistheusualprogressinstuffayardandahalfwide。Themencultivatealittlesirih(thepungentpepperleafusedforchewingwithbetel-nut)andafewvegetables；andonceayearrudelyploughasmallpatchofgroundwiththeirbuffaloesandplantrice，whichthenrequireslittleattentionuntilharvesttime。Nowandthentheyhavetoseetotherepairsoftheirhouses，andmakemats，baskets，orotherdomesticutensils，butalargepartoftheirtimeispassedinidleness。

NotasinglepersoninthevillagecouldspeakmorethanafewwordsofMalay，andhardlyanyofthepeopleappearedtohaveseenaEuropeanbefore。OnemostdisagreeableresultofthiswasthatIexcitedterroralikeinmanandbeast。WhereverIwent，dogsbarked，childrenscreamed，womenranaway，andmenstaredasthoughIweresomestrangeandterriblecannibalormonster。Eventhepack-horsesontheroadsandpathswouldstartasidewhenI

appearedandrushintothejungle；andastothosehorrid，uglybrutes，thebuffaloes，theycouldneverbeapproachedbyme；notforfearofmyownbutofothers\'safety。Theywouldfirststickouttheirnecksandstareatme，andthenonanearerviewbreakloosefromtheirhaltersortethers，andrushawayhelter-skelterasifademonwereafterthem，withoutanyregardforwhatmightbeintheirway。WheneverImetbuffaloescarryingpacksalongapathway，orbeingdrivenhometothevillage，Ihadtoturnasideintothejungleandhidemyselfuntiltheyhadpassed，toavoidacatastrophewhichwouldincreasethedislikewithwhichIwasalreadyregarded。Everydayaboutnoonthebuffaloeswerebroughtintothevilla，andweretetheredintheshadearoundthehouses；andthenIhadtocreepaboutlikeathiefbybackways，fornoonecouldtellwhatmischieftheymightdotochildrenandhouseswereItowalkamongthem。IfIcamesuddenlyuponawellwherewomenweredrawingwaterorchildrenbathing，asuddenflightwasthecertainresult；whichthingsoccurringdayafterday，wereveryunpleasanttoapersonwhodoesnotliketobedisliked，andwhohadneverbeenaccustomedtobetreatedasanogre。

AboutthemiddleofNovember，findingmyhealthnobetter，andinsects，birds，andshellsallveryscarce，IdeterminedtoreturntoMamajam，andpackupmycollectionsbeforetheheavyrainscommenced。Thewindbadalreadybeguntoblowfromthewest，andmanysignsindicatedthattherainyseasonmightsetinearlierthanusual；andtheneverythingbecomesverydamp，anditisalmostimpossibletodrycollectionsproperly。MykindfriendMr。Mesmanagainlentmehispack-horses，andwiththeassistanceofafewmentocarrymybirdsandinsects，whichI

didnotliketotrustonhorses\'backs，wegoteverythinghomesafe。Fewcanimaginetheluxuryitwastostretchmyselfonasofa，andtotakemysuppercomfortablyattableseatedinmyeasybamboochair，afterhavingforfiveweekstakenallmymealsuncomfortablyonthefloor。Suchthingsaretriflesinhealth，butwhenthebodyisweakenedbydiseasethehabitsofalifetimecannotbesoeasilysetaside。

Myhouse，likeallbamboostructuresinthiscountry，wasaleaningone，thestrongwesterlywindsofthewetseasonhavingsetallitspostsoutoftheperpendiculartosuchadegreeastomakemethinkitmightsomedaypossiblygooveraltogether。

ItisaremarkablethingthatthenativesofCelebeshavenotdiscoveredtheuseofdiagonalstrutsinstrengtheningbuildings。

Idoubtifthereisanativehouseinthecountrytwoyearsoldandatallexposedtothewind，whichstandsupright；andnowonder，astheymerelyconsistofpostsandjoistsallplaceduprightorhorizontal，andfastenedrudelytogetherwithrattans。

Theymaybeseenineverystageoftheprocessoftumblingdown，fromthefirstslightinclination，tosuchadangerousslopethatitbecomesanoticetoquittotheoccupiers。

Themechanicalgeniusesofthecountryhaveonlydiscoveredtwowaysofremedyingtheevil。Oneis，afterithascommenced，totiethehousetoapostinthegroundonthewindwardsidebyarattanorbamboocable。Theotherisapreventive，buthowtheyeverfounditoutanddidnotdiscoverthetruewayisamystery。

Thisplanis，tobuildthehouseintheusualway，butinsteadofhavingalltheprincipalsupportsofstraightposts，tohavetwoorthreeofthemchosenascrookedaspossible。Ihadoftennoticedthesecrookedpostsinhouses，butimputedittothescarcityofgood，straighttimber，untilonedayImetsomemencarryinghomeapostshapedsomethinglikeadog\'shindleg，andinquiredofmynativeboywhattheyweregoingtodowithsuchapieceofwood。"Tomakeapostforahouse，"saidhe。"Butwhydon\'ttheygetastraightone，thereareplentyhere？"saidI。

"Oh，"repliedhe，"theyprefersomelikethatinahouse，becausethenitwon\'tfall，"evidentlyimputingtheeffecttosomeoccultpropertyofcrookedtimber。Alittleconsiderationandadiagram。

will，however，show，thattheeffectimputedtothecrookedpostmaybereallyproducedbyit。Atruesquarechangesitsfigurereadilyintoarhomboidorobliquefigure，butwhenoneortwooftheuprightsarebentorsloping，andplacedsoastoopposeeachother，theeffectofastrutisproduced，thoughinarudeandclumsymanner。

JustbeforeIhadleftMamajamthepeoplehadsownaconsiderablequantityofmaize，whichappearsabovegroundintwoorthreedays，andinfavourableseasonsripensinlessthantwomonths。

Owingtoaweek\'sprematurerainsthegroundwasallfloodedwhenIreturned，andtheplantsjustcomingintoearwereyellowanddead。Notagrainwouldbeobtainedbythewholevillage，butluckilyitisonlyaluxury，notanecessityoflife。Therainwasthesignalforploughingtobegin，inordertosowriceonalltheflatlandsbetweenusandthetown。Theploughusedisarudewoodeninstrumentwithaveryshortsinglehandle，atolerablywell-shapedcoulter，andthepointformedofapieceofhardpalm-woodfastenedinwithwedges。Oneortwobuffaloesdrawitataveryslowpace。Theseedissownbroadcast，andarudewoodenharrowisusedtosmooththesurface。

BythebeginningofDecembertheregularwetseasonhadsetin。

Westerlywindsanddrivingrainssometimescontinuedfordaystogether；thefieldsformilesaroundwereunderwater，andtheducksandbuffaloesenjoyedthemselvesamazingly。AllalongtheroadtoMacassar，ploughingwasdailygoingoninthemudandwater，throughwhichthewoodenplougheasilymakesitsway，theploughmanholdingtheplough-handlewithonehandwhilealongbamboointheotherservestoguidethebuffaloes。Theseanimalsrequireanimmensedealofdrivingtogetthemonatall；acontinualshowerofexclamationsiskeptupatthem，and"Oh！ah！

Gee！ugh！"aretobeheardinvariouskeysandinanuninterruptedsuccessionalldaylong。Atnightwewerefavouredwithadifferentkindofconcert。Thedrygroundaroundmyhousehadbecomeamarshtenantedbyfrogs，whokeptupamostincrediblenoisefromdusktodawn。Theyweresomewhatmusicaltoo，havingadeepvibratingnotewhichattimescloselyresemblesthetuningoftwoorthreebass-violsinanorchestra。InMalaccaandBorneoIhadheardnosuchsoundsasthese，whichindicatesthatthefrogs，likemostoftheanimalsofCelebes，areofspeciespeculiartoit。

Mykindfriendandlandlord，Mr。Mesman，wasagoodspecimenoftheMacassar-bornDutchman。Hewasaboutthirty-fiveyearsofage，hadalargefamily，andlivedinaspacioushousenearthetown，situatedinthemidstofagroveoffruittrees，andsurroundedbyaperfectlabyrinthofoffices，stables，andnativecottagesoccupiedbyhisnumerousservants，slaves，ordependants。Heusuallyrosebeforethesun，andafteracupofcoffeelookedafterhisservants，horses，anddogs，untilseven，whenasubstantialbreakfastofriceandmeatwasreadyinacoolverandah。Puttingonacleanwhitelinensuit，hethen(trovetotowninhisbuggy，wherehehadanoffice，withtwoorthreeChineseclerkswholookedafterhisaffairs。Hisbusinesswasthatofacoffeeandopiummerchant。HehadacoffeeestateatBontyne，andasmallprauwhichtradedtotheEasternislandsnearNewGuinea，formother-of-pearlandtortoiseshell。Aboutonehewouldreturnhome，havecoffeeandcakeorfriedplantain，firstchanginghisdressforacolouredcottonshirtandtrousersandbarefeet，andthentakeasiestawithabook。Aboutfour，afteracupoftea，hewouldwalkroundhispremises，andgenerallystrolldowntoMamajamtopaymeavisit，andlookafterhisfarm。

Thisconsistedofacoffeeplantationandanorchardoffruittrees，adozenhorsesandascoreofcattle，withasmallvillageofTimoreseslavesandMacassarservants。Onefamilylookedafterthecattleandsuppliedthehousewithmilk，bringingmealsoalargeglassfuleverymorning，oneofmygreatestluxuries。Othershadchargeofthehorses，whichwerebroughtineveryafternoonandfedwithcutgrass。Othershadtocutgrassfortheirmaster\'shorsesatMacassar——notaveryeasytaskinthedryseason，whenallthecountrylookslikebakedmud；orintherainyseason，whenmilesineverydirectionareflooded。Howtheymanageditwasamysterytome，buttheyknowgrassmustbehad，andtheygetit。Onelamewomanhadchargeofaflockofducks。

Twiceadayshetookthemouttofeedinthemarshyplaces，letthemwaddleandgobbleforanhourortwo，andthendrovethembackandshutthemupinasmalldarkshedtodigesttheirmeal，whencetheygaveforthoccasionallyamelancholyquack。Everynightawatchwasset，principallyforthesakeofthehorses——

thepeopleofGoa，onlytwomilesoff，beingnotoriousthieves，andhorsesofferingtheeasiestandmostvaluablespoil。Thisenabledmetosleepinsecurity，althoughmanypeopleinMacassarthoughtIwasrunningagreatrisk，livingaloneinsuchasolitaryplaceandwithsuchbadneighbours。

Myhousewassurroundedbyakindofstragglinghedgeofroses，jessamines，andotherflowers，andeverymorningoneofthewomengatheredabasketfuloftheblossomsforMr。Mesman\'sfamily。I

generallytookacoupleformyownbreakfasttable，andthesupplyneverfailedduringmystay，andIsupposeneverdoes。

AlmosteverySundayMr。M。madeashootingexcursionwithhiseldestson，aladoffifteen，andIgenerallyaccompaniedhim；

forthoughtheDutchareProtestants，theydonotobserveSundayintherigidmannerpractisedinEnglandandEnglishcolonies。

TheGovernoroftheplacehashispublicreceptioneverySundayevening，whencard-playingistheregularamusement。

OnDecember13thIwentonboardaprauboundfortheAruIslands，ajourneywhichwillbedescribedinthelatterpartofthiswork。

Onmyreturn，afterasevenmonths\'absence，IvisitedanotherdistricttothenorthofMacassar，whichwillformthesubjectofthenextchapter。

CHAPTERXVI。

CELEBES。

(MACASSAR。JULYTONOVEMBER，1857。)

IREACHEDMacassaragainonthe11thofJuly，andestablishedmyselfinmyoldquartersatMamajam，tosort，arrange，clean，andpackupmyArucollections。Thisoccupiedmeamonth；andhavingshippedthemoffforSingapore，hadmygunsrepaired，andreceivedanewonefromEngland，togetherwithastockofpins，arsenic，andothercollectingrequisites。Ibegantofeeleagerforworkagain，andhadtoconsiderwhereIshouldspendmytimeuntiltheendoftheyear；IhadleftMacassarsevenmonthsbefore，afloodedmarshbeingploughedupfortherice-sowing。

Therainshadcontinuedforfivemonths，yetnowallthericewascut，anddryanddustystubblecoveredthecountryjustaswhenIhadfirstarrivedthere。

AftermuchinquiryIdeterminedtovisitthedistrictofMaros，aboutthirtymilesnorthofMacassar，whereMr。JacobMesman，abrotherofmyfriend，resided，whohadkindlyofferedtofindmehouse-roomandgivemeassistanceshouldIfeelinclinedtovisithim。IaccordinglyobtainedapassfromtheResident，andhavinghiredaboatsetoffoneeveningforMaros。MyboyAliwassoillwithfeverthatIwasobligedtoleavehiminthehospital，underthecareofmyfriendtheGermandoctor，andIhadtomakeshiftwithtwonewservantsutterlyignorantofeverything。Wecoastedalongduringthenight，andatdaybreakenteredtheMarosriver，andbythreeintheafternoonreachedthevillage。IimmediatelyvisitedtheAssistantResident，andappliedfortenmentocarrymybaggage，andahorseformyself。Thesewerepromisedtobereadythatnight，sothatIcouldstartassoonasIlikedinthemorning。AfterhavingtakenacupofteaItookmyleave，andsleptintheboat。Someofthemencameatnightaspromised，butothersdidnotarriveuntilthenextmorning。Ittooksometimetodividemybaggagefairlyamongthem，astheyallwantedtoshirktheheavyboxes，andwouldseizeholdofsomelightarticleandmarchoffwithit，untilmadetocomebackandwaituntilthewholehadbeenfairlyapportioned。Atlengthabouteighto\'clockallwasarranged，andwestartedforourwalktoMr。M。\'sfarm。

Thecountrywasatfirstauniformplainofburned-uprice-

grounds，butatafewmiles\'distanceprecipitoushillsappeared，backedbytheloftycentralrangeofthepeninsula。Towardstheseourpathlay，andafterhavinggonesixoreightmilesthehillsbegantoadvanceintotheplainrightandleftofus，andthegroundbecamepiercedhereandtherewithblocksandpillarsoflimestonerock，whileafewabruptconicalhillsandpeaksroselikeislands。Passingoveranelevatedtractformingtheshoulderofoneofthehills，apicturesquescenelaybeforeus。

Welookeddownintoalittlevalleyalmostentirelysurroundedbymountains，risingabruptlyinhugeprecipices，andformingasuccessionofknollsandpeaksaiddomesofthemostvariedandfantasticshapes。Intheverycentreofthevalleywasalargebamboohouse，whilescatteredaroundwereadozencottagesofthesamematerial。

IwaskindlyreceivedbyMr。JacobMesmaninanairysaloondetachedfromthehouse，andentirelybuiltofbambooandthatchedwithgrass。Afterbreakfasthetookmetohisforeman\'shouse，aboutahundredyardsoff，halfofwhichwasgivenuptomeuntilIshoulddecidewheretohaveacottagebuiltformyownuse。Isoonfoundthatthisspotwastoomuchexposedtothewindanddust，whichrendereditverydifficulttoworkwithpapersorinsects。Itwasalsodreadfullyhotintheafternoon，andafterafewdaysIgotasharpattackoffever，whichdeterminedmetomove。Iaccordinglyfixedonaplaceaboutamileoff，atthefootofaforest-coveredhill，whereinafewdaysMr。M。builtformeanicelittlehouse，consistingofagood-sizedenclosedverandahoropenroom，andasmallinnersleeping-room，withalittlecookhouseoutside。AssoonasitwasfinishedImovedintoit，andfoundthechangemostagreeable。

Theforestwhichsurroundedmewasopenandfreefromunderwood，consistingoflargetrees，widelyscatteredwithagreatquantityofpalm-trees(Arengasaccharifera)，fromwhichpalmwineandsugararemade。TherewerealsogreatnumbersofawildJack-

fruittree(Artocarpus)，whichboreabundanceoflargereticulatedfruit，servingasanexcellentvegetable。ThegroundwasasthicklycoveredwithdryleavesasitisinanEnglishwoodinNovember；thelittlerockystreamswerealldry，andscarcelyadropofwaterorevenadampplacewasanywheretobeseen。Aboutfiftyyardsbelowmyhouse，atthefootofthehill，wasadeepholeinawatercoursewheregoodwaterwastobehad，andwhereIwentdailytobathebyhavingbucketsofwatertakenoutandpouringitovermybody。

MyhostMr。M。enjoyedathoroughlycountrylife，dependingalmostentirelyonhisgunanddogstosupplyhistable。Wildpigsoflargesizewereveryplentifulandhegenerallygotoneortwoaweek，besidesdeeroccasionally，andabundanceofjungle-fowl，hornbills，andgreatfruitpigeons。Hisbuffaloessuppliedplentyofmilkfromwhichhemadehisownbutter；hegrewhisownriceandcoffee，andhadducks，fowls，andtheireggs，inprofusion。Hispalm-treessuppliedhimalltheyearroundwith"sagueir，"whichtakestheplaceofbeer；andthesugarmadefromthemisanexcellentsweetmeat。Allthefinetropicalvegetablesandfruitswereabundantintheirseason，andhiscigarsweremadefromtobaccoofhisownraising。Hekindlysentmeabambooofbuffalo-milkeverymorning；itwasasthickascream，andrequireddilutingwithwatertokeepitfluidduringtheday。Itmixesverywellwithteaandcoffee，althoughithasaslightpeculiarflavour，whichafteratimeisnotdisagreeable。Ialsogotasmuchsweet"sagueir"asIlikedtodrink，andMr。M。alwayssentmeapieceofeachpighekilled，whichwithfowls，eggs，andthebirdsweshotourselves，andbuffalobeefaboutonceafortnight，keptmylardersufficientlywellsupplied。

Everybitofflatlandwasclearedandusedasrice-fields，andonthelowerslopesofmanyofthehillstobaccoandvegetablesweregrown。Mostoftheslopesarecoveredwithhugeblocksofrock，veryfatiguingtoscrambleover，whileanumberofthehillsaresoprecipitousastobequiteinaccessible。Thesecircumstances，combinedwiththeexcessivedrought，wereveryunfavourableforlilypursuits。Birdswerescarce，andIgotbutfewnewtome。Insectsweretolerablyplentiful，butunequal。

Beetles，usuallysonumerousandinteresting，wereexceedinglyscarce，someofthefamiliesbeingquiteabsentandothersonlyrepresentedbyveryminutespecies。TheFliesandBees，ontheotherhand，wereabundant，andoftheseIdailyobtainednewandinterestingspecies。TherareandbeautifulButterfliesofCelebeswerethechiefobjectofmysearch，andIfoundmanyspeciesaltogethernewtome，buttheyweregenerallysoactiveandshyastorendertheircaptureamatterofgreatdifficulty。

Almosttheonlygoodplaceforthemwasinthedrybedsofthestreamsintheforest，where，atdampplaces，muddypools，orevenonthedryrocks，allsortsofinsectscouldbefound。Intheserockyforestsdwellsomeofthefinestbutterfliesintheworld。ThreespeciesofOrnithoptera，measuringsevenoreightinchesacrossthewings，andbeautifullymarkedwithspotsormassesofsatinyyellowonablackground，wheelthroughthethicketswithastrongsailingflight。Aboutthedampplacesareswarmsofthebeautifulblue-bandedPapilios，miletusandtelephus，thesuperbgoldengreenP。macedon，andtherarelittleswallow-tailPapiliorhesus，ofallofwhich，thoughveryactive，Isucceededincapturingfineseriesofspecimens。

Ihaverarelyenjoyedmyselfmorethanduringmyresidencehere。

AsIsattakingmycoffeeatsixinthemorning，rarebirdswouldoftenbeseenonsometreecloseby，whenIwouldhastilysallyoutinmyslippers，andperhapssecureaprizeIhadbeenseekingafterforweeks。ThegreathornbillsofCelebes(Buceroscassidix)wouldoftencomewithloud-flappingwings，andperchuponaloftytreejustinfrontofme；andtheblackbaboon-

monkeys，Cynopithecusnigrescens，oftenstareddowninastonishmentatsuchanintrusionintotheirdomainswhileatnightherdsofwildpigsroamedaboutthehouse，devouringrefuse，andobligingustoputawayeverythingeatableorbreakablefromourlittlecooking-house。Afewminutes\'searchonthefallentreesaroundmyhouseatsunriseandsunset，wouldoftenproducememorebeetlesthanIwouldmeetwithinaday\'scollecting，andoddmomentscouldbemadevaluablewhichwhenlivinginvillagesoratadistancefromtheforestareinevitablywasted。Wherethesugar-palmsweredrippingwithsap，fliescongregatedinimmensenumbers，anditwasbyspendinghalfanhouratthesewhenIhadthetimetospare，thatIobtainedthefinestandmostremarkablecollectionofthisgroupofinsectsthatIhaveevermade。

ThenwhatdelightfulhoursIpassedwanderingupanddownthedryriver-courses，fullofwater-holesandrocksandfallentrees，andovershadowedbymagnificentvegetation。Isoongottoknoweveryholeandrockandstump，andcameuptoeachwithcautiousstepandbatedbreathtoseewhattreasuresitwouldproduce。AtoneplaceIwouldfindalittlecrowdoftherarebutterflyTachyriszarinda，whichwouldriseupatmyapproach，anddisplaytheirvividorangeandcinnabar-redwings，whileamongthemwouldflutterafewofthefineblue-bandedPapilios。Whereleafybrancheshungoverthegully，ImightexpecttofindagrandOrnithopteraatrestandaneasyprey。AtcertainrottentrunksI

wassuretogetthecuriouslittletigerbeetle，Theratesflavilabris。InthedenserthicketsIwouldcapturethesmallmetal-bluebutterflies(Amblypodia)sittingontheleaves，aswellassomerareandbeautifulleaf-beetlesofthefamiliesHispidaeandChrysomelidae。

Ifoundthattherottenjack-fruitswereveryattractivetomanybeetles，andusedtosplitthempartlyopenandlaythemaboutintheforestnearmyhousetorot。Amorning\'ssearchattheseoftenproducedmeascoreofspecies——Staphylinidae，Nitidulidae，Onthophagi，andminuteCarabidae，beingthemostabundant。Nowandthenthe"sagueir"makersbroughtmeafinerosechafer(Sternoplusschaumii)whichtheyfoundlickingupthesweetsap。

AlmosttheonlynewbirdsImetwithforsometimewereahandsomegroundthrush(Pittacelebensis)，andabeautifulviolet-crowneddove(Ptilonopuscelebensis)，bothverysimilartobirdsIhadrecentlyobtainedatAru，butofdistinctspecies。

AboutthelatterpartofSeptemberaheavyshowerofrainfell，admonishingusthatwemightsoonexpectwetweather，muchtotheadvantageofthebaked-upcountry。IthereforedeterminedtopayavisittothefallsoftheMarosriver，situatedatthepointwhereitissuesfromthemountains——aspotoftenvisitedbytravellersandconsideredverybeautiful。Mr。M。lentmeahorse，andIobtainedaguidefromaneighbouringvillage；andtakingoneofmymenwithme，westartedatsixinthemorning，andafterarideoftwohoursovertheflatrice-fieldsskirtingthemountainswhichroseingrandprecipicesonourleft，wereadiedtheriverabouthalf-waybetweenMarosandthefalls，andthencehadagoodbridle-roadtoourdestination，whichwereached。inanotherhour。Thehillshadclosedinaroundusasweadvanced；

andwhenwereachedaruinousshedwhichhadbeenerectedfortheaccommodationofvisitors，wefoundourselvesinaflat-bottomedvalleyaboutaquarterofamilewide，boundedbyprecipitousandoftenoverhanginglimestonerocks。Sofarthegroundhadbeencultivated，butitnowbecamecoveredwithbushesandlargescatteredtrees。

Assoonasmyscantybaggagehadarrivedandwasdulydepositedintheshed，Istartedoffaloneforthefall，whichwasaboutaquarterofamilefurtheron。Theriverishereabouttwentyyardswide，andissuesfromachasmbetweentwoverticalwallsoflimestone，overaroundedmassofbasalticrockaboutfortyfeethigh，formingtwocurvesseparatedbyaslightledge。Thewaterspreadsbeautifullyoverthissurfaceinathinsheetoffoam，whichcurlsandeddiesinasuccessionofconcentricconesuntilitfallsintoafinedeeppoolbelow。Closetotheveryedgeofthefallanarrowandveryruggedpathleadstotheriverabove，andthencecontinuescloseundertheprecipicealongthewater\'sedge，orsometimesinthewater，forafewhundredyards，afterwhichtherocksrecedealittle，andleaveawoodedbankononeside，alongwhichthepathiscontinued，untilinabouthalfamile，asecondandsmallerfallisreached。Heretheriverseemstoissuefromacavern，therockshavingfallenfromabovesoastoblockupthechannelandbarfurtherprogress。Thefallitselfcanonlybereachedbyapathwhichascendsbehindahugesliceofrockwhichhaspartlyfallenawayfromthemountain，leavingaspacetwoorthreefeetwide，butdisclosingadarkchasmdescendingintothebowelsofthemountain，andwhich，havingvisitedseveralsuch，Ihadnogreatcuriositytoexplore。

Crossingthestreamalittlebelowtheupperfall，thepathascendsasteepslopeforaboutfivehundredfeet，andpassingthroughagapentersanarrowvalley，shutinbywallsofrockabsolutelyperpendicularandofgreatheight。Halfamilefurtherthisvalleyturnsabruptlytotheright，andbecomesamereriftinthemountain。Thisextendsanotherhalfmile，thewallsgraduallyapproachinguntiltheyareonlytwofeetapart，andthebottomrisingsteeplytoapasswhichleadsprobablyintoanothervalley，butwhichIhadnotimetoexplore。Returningtowherethisrifthadbegunthemainpathturnsuptotheleftinasortofgully，andreachesasummitoverwhichafinenaturalarchofrockpassesataheightofaboutfiftyfeet。Thencewasasteepdescentthroughthickjunglewithglimpsesofprecipicesanddistantrockymountains，probablyleadingintothemainrivervalleyagain。Thiswasamosttemptingregiontoexplore，buttherewereseveralreasonswhyIcouldgonofurther。Ihadnoguide，andnopermissiontoentertheBugisterritories，andastherainsmightatanytimesetin，Imightbepreventedfromreturningbythefloodingoftheriver。IthereforedevotedmyselfduringtheshorttimeofmyvisittoobtainingwhatknowledgeIcouldofthenaturalproductionsoftheplace。

Thenarrowchasmsproducedseveralfineinsectsquitenewtome，andonenewbird，thecuriousPhlaegenastristigmata，alargegroundpigeonwithyellowbreastandcrown，andpurpleneck。

ThisruggedpathisthehighwayfromMarostotheBugiscountrybeyondthemountains。Duringtherainyseasonitisquiteimpassable，theriverfillingitsbedandrushingbetweenperpendicularcliffsmanyhundredfeethigh。Evenatthetimeofmyvisititwasmostprecipitousandfatiguing，yetwomenandchildrencameoveritdaily，andmencarryingheavyloadsofpalmsugar(ofverylittlevalue)。Itwasalongthepathbetweenthelowerandtheupperfalls，andaboutthemarginoftheupperpool，thatIfoundmostinsects。Thelargesemi-transparentbutterfly，Ideatondana，flewlazilyalongbydozens，anditwasherethatIatlengthobtainedaninsectwhichIhadhopedbuthardlyexpectedtomeetwith——themagnificentPapilioandrocles，oneofthelargestandrarestknownswallow-tailedbutterflies。Duringmyfourdays\'

stayatthefalls，Iwassofortunateastoobtainsixgoodspecimens。Asthisbeautifulcreatureflies，thelongwhitetailsflickerlikestreamers，andwhensettledonthebeachitcarriesthemraisedupwards，asiftopreservethemfrominjury。Itisscarceevenhere，asIdidnotseemorethanadozenspecimensinall，andhadtofollowmanyofthemupanddowntheriver\'sbankrepeatedlybeforeIsucceededintheircapture。Whenthesunshonehottest，aboutnoon，themoistbeachofthepoolbelowtheupperfallpresentedabeautifulsight，beingdottedwithgroupsofgaybutterflies——orange，yellow，white，blue，andgreen——

whichonbeingdisturbedroseintotheairbyhundreds，formingcloudsofvariegatedcolours。

Suchgores，chasms，andprecipiceshereabound，asIhavenowhereseenintheArchipelago。Aslopingsurfaceisscarcelyanywheretobefound，hugewallsandruggedmassesofrockterminatingallthemountainsandenclosingthevalleys。Inmanypartsthereareverticalorevenoverhangingprecipicesfiveorsixhundredfeethigh，yetcompletelyclothedwithatapestryofvegetation。

Ferns，Pandanaceae，shrubs，creepers，andevenforesttrees，aremingledinanevergreennetwork，throughtheintersticesofwhichappearsthewhitelimestonerockorthedarkholesandchasmswithwhichitabounds。Theseprecipicesareenabledtosustainsuchanamountofvegetationbytheirpeculiarstructure。Theirsurfacesareveryirregular，brokenintoholesandfissures，withledgesoverhangingthemouthsofgloomycaverns；butfromeachprojectingparthavedescendedstalactites，oftenformingawildgothictraceryoverthecavesandrecedinghollows，andaffordinganadmirablesupporttotherootsoftheshrubs，trees，andcreepers，whichluxuriateinthewarmpureatmosphereandthegentlemoisturewhichconstantlyexudesfromtherocks。Inplaceswheretheprecipiceofferssmoothsurfacesofsolidrock，itremainsquitebare，oronlystainedwithlichens，anddottedwithclumpsoffernsthatgrowonthesmallledgesandintheminutestcrevices。

Thereaderwhoisfamiliarwithtropicalnatureonlythroughthemediumofbooksandbotanicalgardenswillpicturetohimselfinsuchaspotmanyothernaturalbeauties。HewillthinkthatI

haveunaccountablyforgottentomentionthebrilliantflowers，which，ingorgeousmassesofcrimson，goldorazure，mustspangletheseverdantprecipices，hangoverthecascade，andadornthemarginofthemountainstream。Butwhatisthereality？InvaindidIgazeoverthesevastwallsofverdure，amongthependantcreepersandbushyshrubs，allaroundthecascadeontheriver\'sbank，orinthedeepcavernsandgloomyfissures——notonesinglespotofbrightcolourcouldbeseen，notonesingletreeorbushorcreeperboreaflowersufficientlyconspicuoustoformanobjectinthelandscape。Ineverydirectiontheeyerestedongreenfoliageandmottledrock。Therewasinfinitevarietyinthecolourandaspectofthefoliage；therewasgrandeurintherockymassesandintheexuberantluxurianceofthevegetation；buttherewasnobrilliancyofcolour，noneofthosebrightflowersandgorgeousmassesofblossomsogenerallyconsideredtobeeverywherepresentinthetropics。Ihaveheregivenanaccuratesketchofaluxurianttropicalsceneasnoteddownonthespot，anditsgeneralcharacteristicsasregardscolourhavebeensooftenrepeated，bothinSouthAmericaandovermanythousandmilesintheEasterntropics，thatIamdriventoconcludethatitrepresentsthegeneralaspectofnatureattheequatorial(thatis，themosttropical)partsofthetropicalregions。

Howisitthen，thatthedescriptionsoftravellersgenerallygiveaverydifferentidea？andwhere，itmaybeasked，arethegloriousflowersthatweknowdoexistinthetropics？Thesequestionscanbeeasilyanswered。Thefinetropicalflowering-

plantscultivatedinourhothouseshavebeenculledfromthemostvariedregions，andthereforegiveamosterroneousideaoftheirabundanceinanyoneregion。Manyofthemareveryrare，othersextremelylocal，whileaconsiderablenumberinhabitthemorearidregionsofAfricaandIndia，inwhichtropicalvegetationdoesnotexhibititselfinitsusualluxuriance。Fineandvariedfoliage，ratherthangayflowers，ismorecharacteristicofthosepartswheretropicalvegetationattainsitshighestdevelopment，andinsuchdistrictseachkindofflowerseldomlastsinperfectionmorethanafewweeks，orsometimesafewdays。Ineverylocalityalengthenedresidencewillshowanabundanceofmagnificentandgaily-blossomedplants，buttheyhavetobesoughtfor，andarerarelyatanyonetimeorplacesoabundantastoformaperceptiblefeatureinthelandscape。Butithasbeenthecustomoftravellerstodescribeandgrouptogetherallthefineplantstheyhavemetwithduringalongjourney，andthusproducetheeffectofagayandflower-

paintedlandscape。Theyhaverarelystudiedanddescribedindividualsceneswherevegetationwasmostluxuriantandbeautiful，andfairlystatedwhateffectwasproducedinthembyflowers。Ihavedonesofrequently，andtheresultoftheseexaminationshasconvincedmethatthebrightcoloursofflowershaveamuchgreaterinfluenceonthegeneralaspectofnatureintemperatethanintropicalclimates。Duringtwelveyearsspentamidthegrandesttropicalvegetation，Ihaveseennothingcomparabletotheeffectproducedonourlandscapesbygorse，broom，heather，wildhyacinths，hawthorn，purpleorchises，andbuttercups。

ThegeologicalstructureofthispartofCelebesisinteresting。

Thelimestonemountains，thoughofgreatextent，seemtobeentirelysuperficial，restingonabasisofbasaltwhichinsomeplacesformslowroundedhillsbetweenthemoreprecipitousmountains。Intherockybedsofthestreamsbasaltisalmostalwaysfound，anditisastepinthisrockwhichformsthecascadealreadydescribed。Fromitthelimestoneprecipicesriseabruptly；andinascendingthelittlestairwayalongthesideofthefall，yousteptwoorthreetimesfromtpeofrockontotheother——thelimestonedryandrough，beingwornbythewaterandrainsintosharpridgesandhoneycombedholes——thebasaltmoist，even，andwornsmoothandslipperybythepassageofbare-

footedpedestrians。Thesolubilityofthelimestonebyrain-wateriswellseeninthelittleblocksandpeakswhichrisethicklythroughthesoilofthealluvialplainsasyouapproachthemountains。Theyareallskittle-shaped，largerinthemiddlethanatthebase，thegreatestdiameteroccurringattheheighttowhichthecountryisfloodedinthewetseason，andthencedecreasingregularlytotheground。Manyofthemoverhangconsiderably，andsomeoftheslendererpillarsappeartostanduponapoint。Whentherockislesssoliditbecomescuriouslyhoneycombedbytherainsofsuccessivewinters，andInoticedsomemassesreducedtoacompletenetworkofstonethroughwhichlightcouldbeseenineverydirection。

Fromthesemountainstotheseaextendsaperfectlyflatalluvialplain，withnoindicationthatwaterwouldaccumulateatagreatdepthbeneathit，yettheauthoritiesatMacassarhavespentmuchmoneyinboringawellathousandfeetdeepinhopeofgettingasupplyofwaterlikethatobtainedbytheArtesianwellsintheLondonandParisbasins。Itisnottobewonderedatthattheattemptwasunsuccessful。

Returningtomyforesthut，Icontinuedmydailysearchafterbirdsandinsects。Theweather，however，becamedreadfullyhotanddry，everydropofwaterdisappearingfromthepoolsandrock-

holes，andwithittheinsectswhichfrequentedthem。Onlyonegroupremainedunaffectedbytheintensedrought；theDiptera，ortwo-wingedflies，continuedasplentifullyasever，andontheseI

wasalmostcompelledtoconcentratemyattentionforaweekortwo，bywhichmeansIincreasedmycollectionofthatOrdertoabouttwohundredspecies。Ialsocontinuedtoobtainafewnewbirds，amongwhichweretwoorthreekindsofsmallhawksandfalcons，abeautifulbrush-tonguedparoquet，Trichoglossusornatus，andarareblackandwhitecrow，Corvusadvena。

Atlength，aboutthemiddleofOctober，afterseveralgloomydays，downcameadelugeofrainwhichcontinuedtofallalmosteveryafternoon，showingthattheearlypartofthewetseasonhadcommenced。Ihopednowtogetagoodharvestofinsects，andinsomerespectsIwasnotdisappointed。Beetlesbecamemuchmorenumerous，andunderathickbedofleavesthathadaccumulatedonsomerocksbythesideofaforeststream，IfoundanabundanceofCarbidae，afamilygenerallyscarceinthetropics。Thebutterflies，however，disappeared。Twoofmyservantswereattackedwithfever，dysentery，andswelledfeet，justatthetimethatthethirdhadleftme，andforsomedaystheybothlaygroaninginthehouse。WhentheygotalittlebetterIwasattackedmyself，andasmystoreswerenearlyfinishedandeverythingwasgettingverydamp，IwasobligedtoprepareformyreturntoMacassar，especiallyasthestrongwesterlywindswouldrenderthepassageinasmallopenboatdisagreeable，ifnotdangerous。

Sincetherainsbegan，numbersofhugemillipedes，asthickasone\'sfingerandeightortenincheslong，crawledabouteverywhere——inthepaths，ontrees，aboutthehouse——andonemorningwhenIgotupIevenfoundoneinmybed！Theyweregenerallyofadullleadcolourorofadeepbrickred，andwereverynasty-lookingthingstobecomingeverywhereinone\'sway，althoughquiteharmless。Snakestoobegantoshowthemselves。I

killedtwoofaveryabundantspecies——big-headed，andofabrightgreencolour，whichliecoileduponleavesandshrubsandcanscarcelybeseenuntiloneiscloseuponthem。Brownsnakesgotintomynetwhilebeatingamongdeadleavesforinsects，andmademerathercautiousaboutinsertingmyhanduntilIknewwhatkindofgameIhadcaptured。Thefieldsandmeadowswhichhadbeenparchedandsterile，nowbecamesuddenlycoveredwithfinelonggrass；theriver-bedwhereIhadsomanytimeswalkedoverburningrocks，wasnowadeepandrapidstream；andnumbersofherbaceousplantsandshrubswereeverywherespringingupandburstingintoflower。Ifoundplentyofnewinsects，andifIhadhadagood，roomy，water-and-wind-proofhouse，Ishouldperhapshavestayedduringthewetseason，asIfeelsuremanythingscanthenbeobtainedwhicharetobefoundatnoothertime。Withmysummerhut，however，thiswasimpossible。Duringtheheavyrainsafinedrizzlymistpenetratedintoeverypartofit，andIbegantohavethegreatestdifficultyinkeepingmyspecimensdry。

EarlyinNovemberIreturnedtoMacassar，andhavingpackedupmycollections，startedintheDutchmailsteamerforAmboynaandTernate。Leavingthispartofmyjourneyforthepresent，IwillinthenextchapterconcludemyaccountofCelebes，bydescribingtheextremenorthernpartoftheislandwhichIvisitedtwoyearslater。

CHAPTERXVII。

CELEBES。

(MENADO。JUNETOSEPTEMBER，1859。)

ITwasaftermyresidenceatTimor-CoupangthatIvisitedthenortheasternextremityofCelebes，touchingBanda，Amboyna，andTernateonmyway。IreachedMenadoonthe10thofJune，1859，andwasverykindlyreceivedbyMr。Tower，anEnglishman，butaveryoldresidentinMenado，wherehecarriesonageneralbusiness。HeintroducedmetoMr。L。Duivenboden(whosefatherhadbeenmyfriendatTernate)，whohadmuchtastefornaturalhistory；andtoMr。Neys，anativeofMenado，butwhowaseducatedatCalcutta，andtowhomDutch，English，andMalaywereequallymother-tongues。Allthesegentlemenshowedmethegreatestkindness，accompaniedmeinmyearliestwalksaboutthecountry，andassistedmebyeverymeansintheirpower。Ispentaweekinthetownverypleasantly，makingexplorationsandinquiriesafteragoodcollectingstation，whichIhadmuchdifficultyinfinding，owingtothewidecultivationofcoffeeandcacao，whichhasledtotheclearingawayoftheforestsformanymilesaroundthetown，andoverextensivedistrictsfarintotheinterior。

ThelittletownofMenadoisoneoftheprettiestintheEast。Ithastheappearanceofalargegardencontainingrowsofrusticvillaswithbroadpathsbetween，formingstreetsgenerallyatrightangleswitheachother。Goodroadsbranchoffinseveraldirectionstowardstheinterior，withasuccessionofprettycottages，neatgardens，andthrivingplantations，interspersedwithwildernessesoffruittrees。Tothewestandsouththecountryismountainous，withgroupsoffinevolcanicpeaks6，000

or7，000feethigh，forminggrandandpicturesquebackgroundstothelandscape。

TheinhabitantsofMinahasa(asthispartofCelebesiscalled)

differmuchfromthoseofalltherestoftheisland，andinfactfromanyotherpeopleintheArchipelago。Theyareofalight-

brownoryellowtint，oftenapproachingthefairnessofaEuropean；ofarathershortstature，stoutandwell-made；ofanopenandpleasingcountenance，moreorlessdisfiguredasageincreasesbyprojectingcheck-bones；andwiththeusuallong，straight，jet-blackhairoftheMalayanraces。Insomeoftheinlandvillageswheretheymaybesupposedtobeofthepurestrace，bothmenandwomenareremarkablyhandsome；whilenearerthecoastswherethepurityoftheirbloodhasbeendestroyedbytheintermixtureofotherraces，theyapproachtotheordinarytypesofthewildinhabitantsofthesurroundingcountries。

Inmentalandmoralcharacteristicstheyarealsohighlypeculiar。Theyareremarkablyquietandgentleindisposition，submissivetotheauthorityofthosetheyconsidertheirsuperiors，andeasilyinducedtolearnandadoptthehabitsofcivilizedpeople。Theyareclevermechanics，andseemcapableofacquiringaconsiderableamountofintellectualeducation。

Uptoaveryrecentperiodthesepeoplewerethoroughsavages，andtherearepersonsnowlivinginMenadowhorememberastateofthingsidenticalwiththatdescribedbythewritersofthesixteenthandseventeenthcenturies。Theinhabitantsoftheseveralvillagesweredistincttribes，eachunderitsownchief，speakinglanguagesunintelligibletoeachother，andalmostalwaysatwar。Theybuilttheirhouseselevateduponloftypoststodefendthemselvesfromtheattacksoftheirenemies。TheywereheadhuntersliketheDyaksofBorneo，andweresaidtobesometimescannibals。Whenachiefdied，histombwasadornedwithtwofreshhumanheads；andifthoseofenemiescouldnotbeobtained，slaveswerekilledfortheoccasion。Humanskullswerethegreatornamentsofthechiefs\'houses。Stripsofbarkweretheironlydress。Thecountrywasapathlesswilderness，withsmallcultivatedpatchesofriceandvegetables，orclumpsoffruit-trees，diversifyingtheotherwiseunbrokenforest。Theirreligionwasthatnaturallyengenderedintheundevelopedhumanmindbythecontemplationofgrandnaturalphenomenaandtheluxurianceoftropicalnature。Theburningmountain，thetorrentandthelake，weretheabodeoftheirdeities；andcertaintreesandbirdsweresupposedtohavespecialinfluenceovermen\'sactionsanddestiny。Theyheldwildandexcitingfestivalstopropitiatethesedeitiesordemons，andbelievedthatmencouldbechangedbythemintoanimals——eitherduringlifeorafterdeath。

Herewehaveapictureoftruesavagelife；ofsmallisolatedcommunitiesatwarwithallaroundthem，subjecttothewantsandmiseriesofsuchacondition，drawingaprecariousexistencefromtheluxuriantsoil，andlivingon，fromgenerationtogeneration，withnodesireforphysicalamelioration，andnoprospectofmoraladvancement。

Suchwastheirconditiondowntotheyear1822，whenthecoffee-

plantwasfirstintroduced，andexperimentsweremadeastoitscultivation。Itwasfoundtosucceedadmirablyfromfifteenhundredfeet，uptofourthousandfeetabovethesea。Thechiefsofvillageswereinducedtoundertakeitscultivation。SeedandnativeinstructorsweresentfromJava；foodwassuppliedtothelabourersengagedinclearingandplanting；afixedpricewasestablishedatwhichallcoffeebroughttothegovernmentcollectorswastobepaidfor，andthevillagechiefswhonowreceivedthetitlesof"Majors"weretoreceivefivepercentoftheproduce。Afteratime，roadsweremadefromtheportofMenadouptotheplateau，andsmallerpathswereclearedfromvillagetovillage；missionariessettledinthemorepopulousdistrictsandopenedschools；andChinesetraderspenetratedtotheinteriorandsuppliedclothingandotherluxuriesinexchangeforthemoneywhichthesaleofthecoffeehadproduced。

Atthesametime，thecountrywasdividedintodistricts，andthesystemof"Controlleurs，"whichhadworkedsowellinJava，wasintroduced。The"Controlleur"wasaEuropean，oranativeofEuropeanblood，whowasthegeneralsuperintendentofthecultivationofthedistrict，theadviserofthechiefs，theprotectorofthepeople，andthemeansofcommunicationbetweenbothandtheEuropeanGovernment。Hisdutiesobligedhimtovisiteveryvillageinsuccessiononceamonth，andtosendinareportontheirconditiontotheResident。Asdisputesbetweenadjacentvillageswerenowsettledbyappealtoasuperiorauthority，theoldandinconvenientsemi-fortifiedhousesweredisused，andunderthedirectionofthe"Controlleurs"mostofthehouseswererebuiltonaneatanduniformplan。ItwasthisinterestingdistrictwhichIwasnowabouttovisit。

Havingdecidedonmyroute，Istartedat8A。M。onthe22dofJune。Mr。Towerdrovemethefirstthreemilesinhischaise，andMr。NeysaccompaniedmeonhorsebackthreemilesfurthertothevillageofLotta。HerewemettheControlleurofthedistrictofTondano，whowasreturninghomefromoneofhismonthlytours，andwhohadagreedtoactasmyguideandcompaniononthejourney。FromLottawehadanalmostcontinualascentforsixmiles，whichbroughtusontotheplateauofTondanoatanelevationofabout2，400feet。Wepassedthroughthreevillageswhoseneatnessandbeautyquiteastonishedme。Themainroad，alongwhichallthecoffeeisbroughtdownfromtheinteriorincartsdrawnbybuffaloes，isalwaysturnedasideattheentranceofavillage，soastopassbehindit，andthusallowthevillagestreetitselftobekeptneatandclean。Thisisborderedbyneathedgesoftenformedentirelyofrose-trees，whichareperpetuallyinblossom。Thereisabroadcentralpathandaborderoffineturf，whichiskeptwellsweptandneatlycut。Thehousesareallofwood，raisedaboutsixfeetonsubstantialpostsneatlypaintedblue，whilethewallsarewhitewashed。Theyallhaveaverandahenclosedwithaneatbalustrade，andaregenerallysurroundedbyorange-treesandfloweringshrubs。Thesurroundingsceneryisverdantandpicturesque。Coffeeplantationsofextremeluxuriance，noblepalmsandtreeferns，woodedhillsandvolcanicpeaks，everywheremeettheeye。Ihadheardmuchofthebeautyofthiscountry，buttherealityfarsurpassedmyexpectations。

Aboutoneo\'clockwereachedTomohón，thechiefplaceofadistrict，havinganativechiefnowcalledthe"Major，"atwhosehouseweweretodine。Herewasafreshsurpriseforme。Thehousewaslarge，airyandverysubstantiallybuiltofhardnativetimber，squaredandputtogetherinamostworkmanlikemanner。ItwasfurnishedinEuropeanstyle，withhandsomechandelierlamps，andthechairsandtablesallwellmadebynativeworkmen。Assoonasweentered，madeiraandbitterswereofferedus。Thentwohandsomeboysneatlydressedinwhite，andwithsmoothlybrushedjet-blackhair，handeduseachabasinofwaterandacleannapkinonasalver。Thedinnerwasexcellent。Fowlscookedinvariousways；wildpigroasted，stewedandfried；africasseeofbats，potatoes，riceandothervegetables；allservedongoodchina，withfingerglassesandfinenapkins，andabundanceofgoodclaretandbeer，seemedtomerathercuriousatthetableofanativechiefonthemountainsofCelebes。Ourhostwasdressedinasuitofblackwithpatent-leathershoes，andreallylookedcomfortableandalmostgentlemanlyinthem。Hesatattheheadofthetableanddidthehonourswell，thoughhedidnottalkmuch。

OurconversationwasentirelyinMalay，asthatistheofficiallanguagehere，andinfactthemother-tongueandonlylanguageoftheControlleur，whoisanative-bornhalf-breed。TheMajor\'sfatherwhowaschiefbeforehim，wore，Iwasinformed，astripofbarkashissolecostume，andlivedinarudebutraisedhomeonloftypoles，andabundantlydecoratedwithhumanheads。Ofcoursewewereexpected，andourdinnerwaspreparedinthebeststyle，butIwasassuredthatthechiefsalltakeaprideinadoptingEuropeancustoms，andinbeingabletoreceivetheirvisitorsinahandsomemanner。

Afterdinnerandcoffee，theControlleurwentontoTondano，andIstrolledaboutthevillagewaitingformybaggage，whichwascominginabullock-cart，anddidnotarriveuntilaftermidnight。

Supperwasverysimilartodinner，andonretiringIfoundanelegantlittleroomwithacomfortablebed，gauzecurtainswithblueandredhangings，andeveryconvenience。Nextmorningatsunrisethethermometerintheverandahstoodat69°，whichIwastoldisabouttheusuallowesttemperatureatthisplace，2，500

feetabovethesea。Ihadagoodbreakfastofcoffee，eggs，andfreshbreadandbutter，whichItookinthespaciousverandahamidtheodourofroses，jessamine，andothersweet-scentedflowers，whichfilledthegardeninfront；andabouteighto\'clockleftTomohónwithadozenmencarryingmybaggage。

Ourroadlayoveramountainridgeabout4，000feetabovethesea，andthendescendedabout500feettothelittlevillageofRurúkan，thehighestinthedistrictofMinahasa，andprobablyinallCelebes。HereIhaddeterminedtostayforsometimetoseewhetherthiselevationwouldproduceanychangeinthezoology。

Thevillagehadonlybeenformedabouttenyears，andwasquiteasneatasthoseIhadpassedthrough，andmuchmorepicturesque。

Itisplacedonasmalllevelspot，fromwhichthereisanabruptwoodeddescentdowntothebeautifullakeofTondano，withvolcanicmountainsbeyond。Ononesideisaravine，andbeyonditafinemountainousandwoodedcountry。

Nearthevillagearethecoffeeplantations。Thetreesareplantedinrows，andarekepttoppedtoaboutsevenfeethigh。

Thiscausesthelateralbranchestogrowverystrong，sothatsomeofthetreesbecomeperfecthemispheres，loadedwithfruitfromtoptobottom，andproducingfromtentotwentypoundseachofcleanedcoffeeannually。TheseplantationswereallformedbytheGovernment，andarecultivatedbythevillagersunderthedirectionoftheirchief。Certaindaysareappointedforweedingorgathering，andthewholeworkingpopulationaresummonedbythesoundofagong。Anaccountiskeptofthenumberofhours\'workdonebyeachfamily，andattheyear\'send，theproduceofthesaleisdividedamongthemproportionately。ThecoffeeistakentoGovernmentstoresestablishedatcentralplacesoverthewholecountry，andispaidforatalowfixedprice。Outofthisacertainpercentagegoestothechiefsandmajors，andtheremainderisdividedamongtheinhabitants。Thissystemworksverywell，andIbelieveisatpresentfarbetterforthepeoplethanfree-tradewouldbe。Therearealsolargerice-fields，andinthislittlevillageofseventyhouses，Iwasinformedthatahundredpounds\'worthofricewassoldannually。

Ihadasmallhouseattheveryendofthevillage，almosthangingovertheprecipitousslopedowntothestream，andwithasplendidviewfromtheverandah。Thethermometerinthemorningoftenstoodat62°andneverrosesohighas80°，sothatwiththethinclothingusedinthetropicalplainswewerealwayscoolandsometimespositivelycold，whilethespoutofwaterwhereI

wentdailyformybathhadquiteanicyfeel。AlthoughIenjoyedmyselfverymuchamongthesefinemountainsandforests，Iwassomewhatdisappointedastomycollections。Therewashardlyanyperceptibledifferencebetweentheanimallifeinthistemperateregionandinthetorridplainsbelow，andwhatdifferencedidexistwasinmostrespectsdisadvantageoustome。Thereseemedtobenothingabsolutelypeculiartothiselevation。Birdsandquadrupedswerelessplentiful，butofthesamespecies。Ininsectsthereseemedtobemoredifference。ThecuriousbeetlesofthefamilyCleridae，whicharefoundchieflyonbarkandrottenwood，werefinerthanIhaveseenthemelsewhere。ThebeautifulLongicornswerescarcerthanusual，andthefewbutterflieswerealloftropicalspecies。Oneofthese，Papilioblumei，ofwhichIobtainedafewspecimensonly，isamongthemostmagnificentIhaveeverseen。Itisagreenandgoldswallow-tail，withazure-blueandspoon-shapedtails，andwasoftenseenflyingaboutthevillagewhenthesunshone，butinaveryshatteredcondition。ThegreatamountofwetandcloudyweatherwasagreatdrawbackallthetimeIwasatRurukan。

Eveninthevegetationthereisverylittletoindicateelevation。Thetreesaremorecoveredwithlichensandmosses，andthefernsandtree-fernsarefinerandmoreluxuriantthanI

hadbeenaccustomedtoseeingonthelowgrounds，bothprobablyattributabletothealmostperpetualmoisturethathereprevails。

Abundanceofatastelessraspberry，withblueandyellowcomposite，havesomewhatofatemperateaspect；andminutefernsandOrchideae，withdwarfBegoniasontherocks，makesomeapproachtoasub-alpinevegetation。Theforest，however，ismostluxuriant。Noblepalms，Pandani，andtree-fernsareabundantinit，whiletheforesttreesarecompletelyfestoonedwithOrchideae，Bromeliae，Araceae，Lycopodiums，andmosses。Theordinarystemlessfernsabound；somewithgiganticfrondstenortwelvefeetlong，othersbarelyaninchhigh；somewithentireandmassiveleaves，otherselegantlywavingtheirfinely-cutfoliage，andaddingendlessvarietyandinteresttotheforestpaths。Thecocoa-nutpalmstillproducesfruitabundantly，butissaidtobedeficientinoil。Orangesthrivebetterthanbelow，producingabundanceofdeliciousfruit；buttheshaddockorpumplemous(Citrusdecumana)requiresthefullforceofatropicalsun，foritwillnotthriveevenatTondanoathousandfeetlower。Onthehillyslopesriceiscultivatedlargely，andripenswell，althoughthetemperaturerarelyorneverrisesto80°，sothatonewouldthinkitmightbegrowneveninEnglandinfinesummers，especiallyiftheyoungplantswereraisedunderglass。

Themountainshaveanunusualquantityofearthandvegetablemouldspreadoverthem。Evenonthesteepestslopesthereiseverywhereacoveringofclaysandsands，andgenerallyagoodthicknessofvegetablesoil。Itisthiswhichperhapscontributestotheuniformluxurianceoftheforest，anddelaystheappearanceofthatsub-alpinevegetationwhichdependsalmostasmuchontheabundanceofrockyandexposedsurfacesasondifferenceofclimate。AtamuchlowerelevationonMountOphirinMalacca，DacrydiumsandRhododendronswithabundanceofNepenthes，ferns，andterrestrialorchidssuddenlytooktheplaceoftheloftyforest；butthiswasplainlyduetotheoccurrenceofanextensiveslopeofbare，graniticrockatanelevationoflessthan3，000feet。Thequantityofvegetablesoil，andalsoofloosesandsandclays，restingonsteepslopes，hill-topsandthesidesofravines，isacuriousandimportantphenomenon。Itmaybedueinparttoconstant，slightearthquakeshocksfacilitatingthedisintegrationofrock；but，wouldalsoseemtoindicatethatthecountryhasbeenlongexposedtogentleatmosphericaction，andthatitselevationhasbeenexceedinglyslowandcontinuous。

DuringmystayatRurukan，mycuriositywassatisfiedbyexperiencingaprettysharpearthquake-shock。OntheeveningofJune29th，ataquarteraftereight，asIwassittingreading，thehousebeganshakingwithaverygentle，butrapidlyincreasingmotion。Isatstillenjoyingthenovelsensationforsomeseconds；butinlessthanhalfaminuteitbecamestrongenoughtoshakemeinmychair，andtomakethehousevisiblyrockabout，andcreakandcrackasifitwouldfalltopieces。

Thenbeganacrythroughoutthevillageof"Tanagoyang！tanagoyang！"(Earthquake！earthquake！)Everybodyrushedoutoftheirhouses——womenscreamedandchildrencried——andIthoughtitprudenttogoouttoo。Ongettingup，Ifoundmyheadgiddyandmystepsunsteady，andcouldhardlywalkwithoutfalling。Theshockcontinuedaboutaminute，duringwhichtimeIfeltasifI

hadbeenturnedroundandround，andwasalmostseasick。Goingintothehouseagain，Ifoundalampandabottleofarrackupset。Thetumblerwhichformedthelamphadbeenthrownoutofthesaucerinwhichithadstood。Theshockappearedtobenearlyvertical，rapid，vibratory，andjerking。Itwassufficient，I

havenodoubt，tohavethrowndownbrick，chimneys，walls，andchurchtowers；butasthehousesherearealllow，andstronglyframedoftimber，itisimpossibleforthemtobemuchinjured，exceptbyashockthatwouldutterlydestroyaEuropeancity。Thepeopletoldmeitwastenyearssincetheyhadhadastrongershockthanthis，atwhichtimemanyhouseswerethrowndownandsomepeoplekilled。

Atintervalsoftenminutestohalfanhour，slightshocksandtremorswerefelt，sometimesstrongenoughtosendusalloutagain。Therewasastrangemixtureoftheterribleandtheludicrousinoursituation。Wemightatanymomenthaveamuchstrongershock，whichwouldbringdownthehouseoverus，or——

whatIfearedmore——causealandslip，andsendusdownintothedeepravineontheveryedgeofwhichthevillageisbuilt；yetI

couldnothelplaughingeachtimeweranoutataslightshock，andtheninafewmomentsraninagain。Thesublimeandtheridiculouswerehereliterallybutastepapart。Ontheonehand，themostterribleanddestructiveofnaturalphenomenawasinactionaroundus——therocks，themountains，thesolidearthweretremblingandconvulsed，andwewereutterlyimpotenttoguardagainstthedangerthatmightatanymomentoverwhelmus。Ontheotherhandwasthespectacleofanumberofmen，women，andchildrenrunninginandoutoftheirhouses，onwhateachtimeprovedaveryunnecessaryalarm，aseachshockceasedjustasitbecamestrongenoughtofrightenus。Itseemedreallyverymuchlike"playingatearthquakes，"andmademanyofthepeoplejoinmeinaheartylaugh，evenwhileremindingeachotherthatitreallymightbenolaughingmatter。

Atlengththeeveninggotverycold，andIbecameverysleepy，anddeterminedtoturnin；leavingorderstomyboys，whosleptnearerthedoor，towakemeincasethehousewasindangeroffalling。ButImiscalculatedmyapathy，forIcouldnotsleepmuch。Theshockscontinuedatintervalsofhalfanhouroranhourallnight，juststrongenoughtowakemethoroughlyeachtimeandkeepmeonthealert，readytojumpupincaseofdanger。

Iwasthereforeverygladwhenmorningcame。Mostoftheinhabitantshadnotbeentobedatall，andsomehadstayedoutofdoorsallnight。Forthenexttwodaysandnightsshocksstillcontinuedatshortintervals，andseveraltimesadayforaweek，showingthattherewassomeveryextensivedisturbancebeneathourportionoftheearth\'scrust。Howvasttheforcesatworkreallyarecanonlybeproperlyappreciatedwhen，afterfeelingtheireffects，welookabroadoverthewideexpanseofhillandvalley，plainandmountain，andthusrealizeinaslightdegreetheimmensemassofmatterheavedandshaken。Thesensationproducedbyanearthquakeisnevertobeforgotten。Wefeelourselvesinthegraspofapowertowhichthewildestfuryofthewindsandwavesareasnothing；yettheeffectismoreathrillofawethantheterrorwhichthemoreboisterouswaroftheelementsproduces。Thereisamysteryandanuncertaintyastotheamountofdangerweincur，whichgivesgreaterplaytotheimagination，andtotheinfluencesofhopeandfear。Theseremarksapplyonlytoamoderateearthquake。Asevereoneisthemostdestructiveandthemosthorriblecatastrophetowhichhumanbeingscanbeexposed。