第13章

Livinginatrader\'shouseeverythingisbroughttomeaswellastotherest，——bundlesofsmokedtripang，or"bechedemer，"

lookinglikesausageswhichhavebeenrolledinmudandthenthrownupthechimney；driedsharks\'fins，mother-of-pearlshells，aswellasbirdsofParadise，which，however，aresodirtyandsobadlypreservedthatIhaveasyetfoundnospecimensworthpurchasing。WhenIhardlylookatthearticles，andmakenoofferforthem，theyseemincredulous，and，asiffearingtheyhavemisunderstoodme，againofferthem，anddeclarewhattheywantinreturn——knives，ortobacco，orsago，orhandkerchiefs。Ithenhavetoendeavourtoexplain，throughanyinterpreterwhomaybeathand，thatneithertripangnorpearloystershellshaveanycharmsforme，andthatIevendeclinetospeculateintortoiseshell，butthatanythingeatableIwillbuy——

fish，orturtle，orvegetablesofanysort。Almosttheonlyfood，however，thatwecanobtainwithanyregularity，arefishandcocklesofverygoodquality，andtosupplyourdailywantsitisabsolutelynecessarytobealwaysprovidedwithfourarticles——tobacco，knives，sago-cakes，andDutchcopperdoits——

becausewhentheparticularthingaskedforisnotforthcoming，thefishpassontothenexthouse，andwemaygothatdaywithoutadinner。Itiscurioustoseethebasketsandbucketsusedhere。Thecocklesarebroughtinlargevoluteshells，probablytheCymbiumducale，whilegigantichelmet-shells，aspeciesofCassis，suspendedbyarattanhandle，formthevesselsinwhichfreshwaterisdailycarriedpastmydoor。Itispainfultoanaturalisttoseethesesplendidshellswiththeirinnerwhorlsruthlesslybrokenawaytofitthemfortheirignobleuse。

Mycollections，however，gotonbutslowly，owingtotheunexpectedlybadweather，violentwindswithheavyshowershavingbeensocontinuousasonlytogivemefourgoodcollectingdaysoutofthefirstsixteenIspenthere。YetenoughhadbeencollectedtoshowmethatwithtimeandfineweatherImightexpecttodosomethinggood。FromthenativesIobtainedsomeveryfineinsectsandafewprettyland-shells；andofthesmallnumberofbirdsyetshotmorethanhalfwereknownNewGuineaspecies，andthereforecertainlyrareinEuropeancollections，whiletheremainderwereprobablynew。Inonerespectmyhopesseemeddoomedtobedisappointed。IhadanticipatedthepleasureofmyselfpreparingfinespecimensoftheBirdsofParadise，butInowlearntthattheyareallatthisseasonoutofplumage，andthatitisinSeptemberandOctoberthattheyhavethelongplumesofyellowsilkyfeathersinfullperfection。AsalltheprausreturninJuly，IshouldnotbeabletospendthatseasoninAruwithoutremaininganotherwholeyear，whichwasoutofthequestion。Iwasinformed，however，thatthesmallredspecies，the"KingBirdofParadise，"retainsitsplumageatallseasons，andthisImightthereforehopetoget。

AsIbecamefamiliarwiththeforestsceneryoftheisland，(perceivedittopossesssomecharacteristicfeaturesthatdistinguisheditfromthatofBorneoandMalacca，while，whatisverysingularandinteresting，itrecalledtomymindthehalf-

forgottenimpressionsoftheforestsofEquatorialAmerica。Forexample，thepalmsweremuchmoreabundantthanIhadgenerallyfoundthemintheEast，moregenerallymingledwiththeothervegetation，morevariedinformandaspect，andpresentingsomeofthoseloftyandmajesticsmooth-stemmed，pinnate-leavedspecieswhichrecalltheUauassu(Attaleaspeciosa)oftheAmazon，butwhichIhadhithertorarelymetwithintheMalayanislands。

InanimallifetheimmensenumberandvarietyofspidersandoflizardswerecircumstancesthatrecalledtheprolificregionsofsouthAmerica，moreespeciallytheabundanceandvariedcoloursofthelittlejumpingspiderswhichaboundonflowersandfoliage，andareoftenperfectgemsofbeauty。Theweb-spinningspecieswerealsomorenumerousthanIhadeverseenthem，andwereagreatannoyance，stretchingtheirnetsacrossthefootpathsjustabouttheheightofmyface；andthethreadscomposingthesearesostrongandglutinousastorequiremuchtroubletofreeoneselffromthem。Thentheirinhabitants，greatyellow-spottedmonsterswithbodiestwoincheslong，andlegsinproportion，arenotpleasanttoorunone\'snoseagainstwhilepursuingsomegorgeousbutterfly，orgazingaloftinsearchofsomestrange-voicedbird。Isoonfounditnecessarynotonlytobrushawaytheweb，butalsotodestroythespinner；foratfirst，havingclearedthepathoneday，Ifoundthenextmorningthattheindustriousinsectshadspreadtheirnetsagainintheverysameplaces。

Thelizardswereequallystrikingbytheirnumbers，variety，andthesituationsinwhichtheywerefound。Thebeautifulblue-

tailedspeciessoabundantinKewasnotseenhere。TheArulizardsaremorevariedbutmoresombreintheircolours——shadesofgreen，grey，brown，andevenblack，beingveryfrequentlyseen。Everyshrubandherbaceousplantwasalivewiththem，everyrottentrunkordeadbranchservedasastationforsomeoftheseactivelittleinsect-hunters，who，Ifear，tosatisfytheirgrossappetites，destroymanygemsoftheinsectworld，whichwouldfeasttheeyesanddelighttheheartofourmorediscriminatingentomologists。Anothercuriousfeatureofthejungleherewasthemultitudeofsea-shellseverywheremetwithonthegroundandhighuponthebranchesandfoliage，allinhabitedbyhermit-

crabs，whoforsakethebeachtowanderintheforest。Ilaveactuallyseenaspidercarryingawayagood-sizedshellanddevouringits(probablyjuvenile)tenant。Onthebeach，whichI

hadtowallsalongeverymorningtoreachtheforest，thesecreaturesswarmedbythousands。Everydeadshell，fromthelargesttothemostminute，wasappropriatedbythem。Theyformedsmallsocialpartiesoftenortwentyaroundbitsofstickorseaweed，butdispersedhurriedlyatthesoundofapproachingfootsteps。Afterawindynight，thatnasty-lookingChinesedelicacythesea-slugwassometimesthrownuponthebeach，whichwasatsuchtimesthicklystrewnwithsomeofthemostbeautifulshellsthatadornourcabinets，alongwithfragmentsandmassesofcoralandstrangesponges，ofwhichIpickedupmorethantwentydifferentsorts。Inmanycasesspongeandcoralaresomuchalikethatitisonlyontouchingthemthattheycanbedistinguished。Quantitiesofseaweed，too，arethrownup；butstrangeasitmayseem，thesearefarlessbeautifulandlessvariedthanmaybefoundonanyfavourablepartofourowncoasts。

Thenativeshere，eventhosewhoseemtobeofparePapuanrace，weremuchmorereservedandtaciturnthanthoseofKe。ThisisprobablybecauseIonlysawthemasyetamongstrangersandinsmallparties，Onemustseethesavageathometoknowwhathereallyis。Evenhere，however，thePapuancharactersometimesbreaksout。Littleboyssingcheerfullyastheywalkalong，ortalkaloudtothemselves(quiteanegrocharacteristic)；andtryalltheycan，themencannotconcealtheiremotionsinthetrueMalayfashion。Anumberofthemwereonedayinmyhouse，andhavingafancytotrywhatsortofeatingtripangwouldbe，I

boughtacouple，payingforthemwithsuchanextravagantquantityoftobaccothatthesellersawIwasagreencustomer。

Hecouldnot，however，concealhisdelight，butashesmeltthefragrantweed，andexhibitedthelargehandfultohiscompanions，hegrinnedandtwistedandgavesilentchucklesinamostexpressivepantomime。IhadoftenbeforemadethesamemistakeinpayingaMalayforsometrifle。Innocase，however，washispleasurevisibleonhiscountenance——adullandstupidhesitationonlyshowinghissurprise，whichwouldbeexhibitedexactlyinthesamewaywhetherhewasoverorunderpaid。Theselittlemoraltraitsareofthegreatestinterestwhentakeninconnexionwithphysicalfeatures。Theydonotadmitofthesamereadyexplanationbyexternalcauseswhichissofrequentlyappliedtothelatter。Writersontheracesofmankindhavetoooftentotrusttotheinformationoftravellerswhopassrapidlyfromcountrytocountry，andthushavefewopportunitiesofbecomingacquaintedwithpeculiaritiesofnationalcharacter，orevenofascertainingwhatisreallytheaveragephysicalconformationofthepeople。Suchareexceedinglyapttobedeceivedinplaceswheretworaceshavelong，intermingled，bylookingonintermediateformsandmixedhabitsasevidencesofanaturaltransitionfromoneracetotheother，insteadofanartificialmixtureoftwodistinctpeoples；andtheywillbethemorereadilyledintothiserrorif，asinthepresentcase，writersonthesubjectshouldhavebeeninthehabitofclassingtheseracesasmerevarietiesofonestock，ascloselyrelatedinphysicalconformationasfromtheirgeographicalproximityonemightsupposetheyoughttobe。SofarasIhaveyetseen，theMalayandPapuanappeartobeaswidelyseparatedasanytwohumanracesthatexist，beingdistinguishedbyphysical，mental，andmoralcharacteristics，allofthemostmarkedandstrikingkind。

Feb5th——ItookadvantageofaveryfinecalmdaytopayavisittotheislandofWokan，whichisaboutamilefromus，andformspartofthe"cannabusar，"ormainlandofAru。Thisisalargeisland，extendingfromnorthtosouthaboutahundredmiles，butsolowinmanypartsastobeintersectedbyseveralcreeks，whichruncompletelythroughit，offeringapassageforgood-

sizedvessels。Onthewestside，whereweare，thereareonlyafewoutlyingislands，ofwhichours(Wamma)istheprincipal；butontheeastcoastareagreatnumberofislands，extendingsomemilesbeyondthemainland，andformingthe"blakangtang，"or"backcountry，"ofthetraders，beingtheprincipalseatofthepearl，tripang，andtortoiseshellfisheries。Tothemainlandmanyofthebirdsandanimalsofthecountryarealtogetherconfined；

theBirdsofparadise，theblackcockatoo，thegreatbrush-

turkey，andthecassowary，arenoneofthemfoundonWammaoranyofthedetachedislands。Ididnot，however，expectinthisexcursiontoseeanydecideddifferenceintheforestoritsproductions，andwasthereforeagreeablysurprised。Thebeachwasoverhungwiththedroopingbranchesoflametrees，loadedwithOrchideae，ferns，andotherepiphytalplants。Intheforesttherewasmorevariety，somepartsbeingdry，andwithtreesofalowergrowth，whileinothersthereweresomeofthemostbeautifulpalmsIhaveeverseen，withaperfectlystraight，smooth，slenderstem，ahundredfeethigh，andacrownofhandsomedroopingleaves。Butthegreatestnoveltyandmoststrikingfeaturetomyeyeswerethetree-ferns，which，aftersevenyearsspentinthetropics，Inowsawinperfectionforthefirsttime。

AllIhadhithertometwithwereslenderspecies，notmorethantwelvefeethigh，andtheygavenottheleastideaofthesupremebeautyoftreesbearingtheirelegantheadsoffrondsmorethanthirtyfeetintheair，likethosewhichwereplentifullyscatteredaboutthisforest。Thereisnothingintropicalvegetationsoperfectlybeautiful。

Myboysshotfivesortsofbirds，noneofwhichwehadobtainedduringamonth\'sshootinginWamma。Twowereveryprettyflycatchers，alreadyknownfromNewGuinea；oneofthem(Monarchachrysomela)，ofbrilliantblackandbrightorangecolours，isbysomeauthorsconsideredtobethemostbeautifulofallflycatchers；theotherispurewhiteandvelvetyblack，withabroadfleshyringroundtheeyeofareazurebluecolour；itisnamedthe"spectacledflycatcher"(Monarchatelescopthalma)，andwasfirstfoundinNewGuinea，alongwiththeother，bytheFrenchnaturalistsduringthevoyageofthediscovery-shipCoquille。

Feb。18th——BeforeleavingMacassar，IhadwrittentotheGovernorofAmboynarequestinghimtoassistmewiththenativechiefsofAru。InowreceivedbyavesselwhichhadarrivedfromAmboynaaverypoliteanswerinformingmethatordershadbeensenttogivemeeveryassistancethatImightrequire；andIwasjustcongratulatingmyselfonbeingatlengthabletogetaboatandmentogotothemainlandandexploretheinterior，whenasuddencheckcarneintheformofapiraticalincursion。Asmallprauarrivedwhichhadbeenattackedbypiratesandhadamanwounded。Theyweresaidtohavefiveboats，butmorewereexpectedtobebehindandthetraderswereallinconsternation，fearingthattheirsmallvesselssenttradingtothe"blakangtana"wouldbeplundered。

TheArunativeswereofcoursedreadfullyalarmed，asthesemaraudersattacktheirvillages，burnandmurder，andcarryawaywomenandchildrenforslaves。Notamanwillstirfromhisvillageforsometime，andImustremainstillaprisonerinDobbo。TheGovernorofAmboyna，outofpurekindness，hastoldthechiefsthattheyaretoberesponsibleformysafety，sothattheyhaveauexcellentexcuseforrefusingtostir。

Severalprauswentoutinsearchofthepirates，sentinelswereappointed，andwatch-fireslightedonthebeachtoguardagainstthepossibilityofanightattack，thoughitwashardlythoughttheywouldbeboldenoughtoattempttoplunderDobbo。Thenextdaytheprausreturned，andwehadpositiveinformationthatthesescourgesoftheEasternseaswerereallyamongus。OneofHerrWarzbergen\'ssmallprausalsoarrivedinasadplight。Ithadbeenattackedsixdaysbefore，justasitwasreturning，fromthe"blakangtana。"Thecrewescapedintheirsmallboatandhidinthejungle，whilethepiratescameupandplunderedthevessel。Theytookawayeverythingbutthecargoofmother-of-

pearlshell，whichwastoobulkyforthem。Alltheclothesandboxesofthemen，andthesailsandcordageoftheprau，wereclearedoff。Theyhadfourlargewarboats，andfiredavolleyofmusketryastheycameup，andsentofftheirsmallboatstotheattack。Aftertheyhadleft，ourmenobservedfromtheirconcealmentthatthreehadstayedbehindwithasmallboat；andbeingdriventodesperationbythesightoftheplundering，onebravefellowswamoffarmedonlywithhisparang，orchopping-

knife，andcomingonthemunawaresmadeadesperateattack，killingoneandwoundingtheothertwo，receivinghimselfnumbersofslightwounds，andthenswimmingoffagainwhenalmostexhausted。Twootherpramswerealsoplundered，andthecrewofoneofthemmurderedtoaman。TheyaresaidtobeSooloopirates，buthaveBugisamongthem。OntheirwayheretheyhavedevastatedoneofthesmallislandseastofCeram。ItisnowelevenyearssincetheyhavevisitedAru，andbythusmakingtheirattacksatlonganduncertainintervalsthealarmdiesaway，andtheyfindapopulationforthemostpartunarmedandunsuspiciousofdanger。Noneofthesmalltradingvesselsnowcarryarms，thoughtheydidsoforayearortwoafterthelastattack，whichwasjustthetimewhentherewastheleastoccasionforit。Aweeklateroneofthesmallerpirateboatswascapturedinthe"blakangtana。"Sevenmenwerekilledandthreetakenprisoners。Thelargervesselshavebeenoftenseenbutcannotbecaught，astheyhaveverystrongcrews，andcanalwaysescapebyrowingouttoseaintheeyeofthewind，returningatnight。

Theywillthusremainamongtheinnumerableislandsandchannels，tillthechangeofthemonsoonenablesthemtosailwestward。

March9th-Forfourorfivedayswehavehadacontinualgaleofwind，withoccasionalgustsofgreatfury，whichseemasiftheywouldsendDobbointothesea。Rainaccompaniesitalmosteveryalternatehour，sothatitisnotapleasanttime。DuringsuchweatherIcandolittle，butambusygettingreadyaboatIhavepurchased，foranexcursionintotheinterior。Thereisimmensedifficultyaboutmen，butIbelievethe"Orang-kaya，"orheadmanofWamma，willaccompanymetoseethatIdon\'trunintodanger。

HavingbecomequiteanoldinhabitantofDobbo，Iwillendeavourtosketchthesightsandsoundsthatpervadeit，andthemannersandcustomsofitsinhabitants。Theplaceisnowprettyfull，andthestreetspresentafarmorecheerfulaspectthanwhenwefirstarrived。Everyhouseisastore，wherethenativesbartertheirproduceforwhattheyaremostinneedof。Knives，choppers，swords，guns，tobacco，gambier，plates，basins，handkerchiefs，sarongs，calicoes，andarrack，aretheprincipalarticleswantedbythenatives；butsomeofthestorescontainalsotea，coffee，sugar，wine，biscuits，&c。，forthesupplyofthetraders；andothersarefulloffancygoods，chinaornaments，looking-glasses，razors，umbrellas，pipes，andpurses，whichtakethefancyofthewealthiernatives。Everyfinedaymatsarespreadbeforethedoorsandthetripangisputouttodry，aswellassugar，salt，biscuit，tea，cloths，andotherthingsthatgetinjuredbyanexcessivelymoistatmosphere。Inthemorningandevening，spruceChinamenstrollaboutorchatateachother\'sdoors，inbluetrousers，whitejacket，andaqueueintowhichredsilkisplaitedtillitreachesalmosttotheirheels。AnoldBugishadjiregularlytakesaneveningstrollinallthedignityofflowinggreensilkrobeandgayturban，followedbytwosmallboyscarryinghissirihandbetelboxes。

Ineveryvacantspacenewhousesarebeingbuilt，andallsortsofoddlittlecooking-shedsareerectedagainsttheoldones，whileinsomeout-of-the-waycorners，massivelogpigstiesaretenantedbygrowingporkers；forhowcantheChinamenexistsixmonthswithoutonefeastofpig？

Hereandtherearestallswherebananasaresold，andeverymorningtwolittleboysgoaboutwithtraysofsweetriceandcratedcocoa-nut，friedfish，orfriedplantains；andwhicheveritmaybe，theyhavebutonecry，andthatis"Chocolat-t——t！"ThismustbeaSpanishorPortuguesecry，handeddownforcenturies，whileitsmeaninghasbeenlost。TheBugissailors，whilehoistingthemainsail，cryout，"Velaavela，——

vela，vela，vela！"repeatedinaneverlastingchorus。As"vela"

isPortugueseasail，IsupposedIhaddiscoveredtheoriginofthis，butIfoundafterwardstheyusedthesamecrywhenheavinganchor，andoftenchanteditto"hela，"whichissomuchanuniversalexpressionofexertionandhardbreathingthatitismostprobablyamereinterjectionalcry。

IdaresaytherearenownearfivehundredpeopleinDobboofvariousraces，allmetinthisremotecorneroftheEast，astheyexpressit，"tolookfortheirfortune；"togetmoneyanywaytheycan。Theyaremostofthempeoplewhohavetheveryworstreputationforhonestyaswellaseveryotherformofmorality，——

Chinese，Bugis，Ceramese，andhalf-casteJavanese，withasprinklingofhalf-wildPapuansfromTimor，Babber，andotherislands，yetallgoesonasyetveryquietly。Thismotley，ignorant，bloodthirsty，thievishpopulationliveherewithouttheshadowofagovernment，withnopolice，nocourts，andnolawyers；yettheydonotcuteachother\'sthroats，donotplundereachotherdayandnight，donotfallintotheanarchysuchastateofthingsmightbesupposedtoleadto。Itisveryextraordinary！Itputsstrangethoughtsintoone\'sheadaboutthemountain-loadofgovernmentunderwhichpeopleexistinEurope，andsuggeststheideathatwemaybeover-governed。ThinkofthehundredActsofParliamentannuallyenactedtopreventus，thepeopleofEngland，fromcuttingeachother\'sthroats，orfromdoingtoourneighbouraswewouldnotbedoneby。ThinkofthethousandsoflawyersandbarristerswhosewholelivesarespentintellinguswhatthehundredActsofParliamentmean，andonewouldbeledtoinferthatifDobbohastoolittlelawEnglandhastoomuch。

HerewemaybeholdinitssimplestformthegeniusofCommerceattheworkofCivilization。Tradeisthemagicthatkeepsallatpeace，andunitesthesediscordantelementsintoawell-behavedcommunity。Allaretraders，andknowthatpeaceandorderareessentialtosuccessfultrade，andthusapublicopinioniscreatedwhichputsdownalllawlessness。Ofteninformeryear，whenstrollingalongtheCampongGlaminSingapore，IhavethoughthowwildandferocioustheBugissailorslooked，andhowlittleshouldliketotrustmyselfamongthem。ButnowIfindthemtobeverydecent，well-behavedfellows；Iwalkdailyunarmedinthejungle，whereImeetthemcontinually；Isleepinapalm-leafhut，whichanyonemayenter，withaslittlefearandaslittledangerofthievesormurderasifIwereundertheprotectionoftheMetropolitanpolice。ItistruetheDutchinfluenceisfelthere。TheislandsarenominallyunderthegovernmentoftheMoluccas，whichthenativechiefsacknowledge；

andinmostyearsacommissionerarrivesfromAmboyna，whomakesthetouroftheislands，hearscomplaints，settledisputes，andcarriesawayprisoneranyheinousoffender。Thisyearheisnotexpectedtocome，asnoordershaveyetbeenreceivedtoprepareforhim；sothepeopleofDobbowillprobablybelefttotheirowndevices。OnedayamanwascaughtintheactofstealingapieceofironfromHerrWarzbergen\'shouse，whichhehadenteredbymakingaholethroughthethatchwall。Intheeveningthechieftradersoftheplace，BugisandChinese，assembled，theoffenderwastriedandfoundguilty，andsentencedtoreceivetwentylashesonthespot。Theyweregivenwithasmallrattaninthemiddleofthestreet，notveryseverely，theexecutionerappearedtosympathisealittlewiththeculprit。Thedisgraceseemedtobethoughtasmuchofasthepain；forthoughanyamountofclevercheatingisthoughtrathermeritoriousthanotherwise，openrobberyandhousebreakingmeetwithuniversalreprobation。

CHAPTERXXXI。

THEARUISLANDS——JOURNEYANDRESIDENCEINTHEINTERIOR。

(MARCHTOMAY1857。)

MYboatwasatlengthready，andhavingobtainedtwomenbesidesmyownservants，afteranenormousamountoftalkandtrouble，weleftDobboonthemorningofMarch13th，forthemainlandofAru。

Bynoonwereachedthemouthofasmallriverorcreek，whichweascended，windingamongmangrove，swamps，withhereandthereaglimpseofdryland。Intwohourswereachedahouse，orrathersmallshed，ofthemostmiserabledescription，whichoursteersman，the"Orang-kaya"ofWamma，saidwastheplaceweweretostayat，andwherehehadassuredmewecouldgeteverykindofbirdandbeasttobefoundinAru。Theshedwasoccupiedbyaboutadozenmen，women，andchildren；twocookingfireswereburninginit，andthereseemedlittleprospectofmyobtaininganyaccommodation。IhoweverdeferredinquirytillIhadseentheneighbouringforest，andimmediatelystartedoffwithtwomen，net，andguns，alongapathatthebackofthehouse。Inanhour\'swalkIsawenoughtomakemedeterminetogivetheplaceatrial，andonmyreturn，findingthe"Orang-kaya"wasinastrongfever-fitandunabletodoanything，Ienteredintonegotiationswiththeownerofthehousefortheuseofaslipatoneendofitaboutfivefeetwide，foraweek，andagreedtopayasrentone"parang，"orchopping-knife。Ithenimmediatelygotmyboxesandbeddingoutoftheboat，hungupashelfformybird-skinsandinsects，andgotallreadyforworknextmorning。Myownboyssleptintheboattoguardtheremainderofmyproperty；acookingplaceshelteredbyafewmatswasarrangedunderatreecloseby，andIfeltthatdegreeofsatisfactionandenjoymentwhichIalwaysexperiencewhen，aftermuchtroubleanddelay，I

amonthepointofbeginningworkinanewlocality。

OneofmyfirstobjectswastoinquireforthepeoplewhoareaccustomedtoshoottheParadisebirds。Theylivedatsomedistanceinthejungle，andamanwassenttocallthem。Whentheyarrived，wehadatalkbymeansofthe"Orang-kaya"asinterpreter，andtheysaidtheythoughttheycouldgetsome。Theyexplainedthattheyshootthebirdswithabowandarrow，thearrowhavingaconicalwoodencapfittedtotheendaslargeasateacup，soastokillthebirdbytheviolenceoftheblowwithoutmakinganywoundorsheddinganyblood。Thetreesfrequentedbythebirdsareverylofty；itisthereforenecessarytoerectasmallleafycoveringorhutamongthebranches，towhichthehuntermountsbeforedaylightinthemorningandremainsthewholeday，andwheneverabirdalightstheyarealmostsureofsecuringit。(SeeFrontispiece。)Theyreturnedtotheirhomesthesameevening，andIneversawanythingmoreofthem，owing，asIafterwardsfound，toitsbeingtooearlytoobtainbirdsingoodplumage。

Thefirsttwoorthreedaysofourstayherewereverywet，andI

obtainedbutfewinsectsorbirds，butatlength，whenIwasbeginningtodespair，myboyBaderoonreturnedonedaywithaspecimenwhichrepaidmeformonthsofdelayandexpectation。Itwasasmallbirdalittlelessthanathrush。Thegreaterpartofitsplumagewasofanintensecinnabarred，withaglossasofspunglass。Ontheheadthefeathersbecameshortandvelvety，andshadedintorichorange。Beneath，fromthebreastdownwards，waspurewhite，withthesoftnessandglossofsilk，andacrossthebreastabandofdeepmetallicgreenseparatedthiscolourfromtheredofthethroat。Aboveeacheyewasaroundspotofthesamemetallicgreen；thebillwasyellow，andthefeetandlegswereofafinecobaltó111e，strikinglycontrastingwithalltheotherpartsofthebody。Merelyinarrangementofcoloursandtextureofplumagethislittlebirdwasagemofthefirstwater，yettherecomprisedonlyhalfitsstrangebeauty。Springingfromeachsideofthebreast，andordinarilylyingconcealedunderthewings，werelittletuftsofgreyishfeathersabouttwoincheslong，andeachterminatedbyabroadbandofintenseemeraldgreen。Theseplumescanberaisedatthewillofthebird，andspreadoutintoapairofelegantfanswhenthewingsareelevated。Butthisisnottheonlyornament。Thetwomiddlefeathersofthetailareintheformofslenderwiresaboutfiveincheslong，andwhichdivergeinabeautifuldoublecurve。Abouthalfaninchoftheendofthiswireiswebbedontheoutersideonly，awecolouredofafinemetallicgreen，andbeingcurledspirallyinwardsformapairofelegantglitteringbuttons，hangingfiveinchesbelowthebody，andthesamedistanceapart。

Thesetwoornaments，thebreastfansandthespiraltippedtailwires，arealtogetherunique，notoccurringonanyotherspeciesoftheeightthousanddifferentbirdsthatareknowntoexistupontheearth；and，combinedwiththemostexquisitebeautyofplumage，renderthisoneofthemostperfectlylovelyofthemanylovelyproductionsofnature。MytransportsofadmirationanddelightquiteamusedmyAruhosts，whosawnothingmoreinthe"Burongraja"thanwedointherobinofthegoldfinch。

Thusoneofmyobjectsincomingtothefarfastwasaccomplished。IhadobtainedaspecimenoftheKingBirdofParadise(Paradisearegia)，whichhadbeendescribedbyLinnaeusfromskinspreservedinamutilatedstatebythenatives。IknewhowfewEuropeanshadeverbeheldtheperfectlittleorganismI

nowgazedupon，andhowveryimperfectlyitwasstillknowninEurope。Theemotionsexcitedinthemindsofanaturalist，whohaslongdesiredtoseetheactualthingwhichhehashithertoknownonlybydescription，drawing，orbadly-preservedexternalcovering——especiallywhenthatthingisofsurpassingrarityandbeauty，requirethepoeticfacultyfullytoexpressthem。TheremoteislandinwhichIfoundmyselfsituated，inanalmostunvisitedsea，farfromthetracksofmerchantfleetsandnavies；

thewildluxurianttropicalforest，whichstretchedfarawayoneveryside；therudeunculturedsavageswhogatheredroundme，——

allhadtheirinfluenceindeterminingtheemotionswithwhichI

gazeduponthis"thingofbeauty。"Ithoughtofthelongagesofthepast，duringwhichthesuccessivegenerationsofthislittlecreaturehadruntheircourse——yearbyyearbeingborn，andlivinganddyingamidthesedarkandgloomywoods，withnointelligenteyetogazeupontheirloveliness；toallappearancesuchawantonwasteofbeauty。Suchideasexciteafeelingofmelancholy。Itseemssad，thatontheonehandsuchexquisitecreaturesshouldliveouttheirlivesandexhibittheircharmsonlyinthesewildinhospitableregions，doomedforagesyettocometohopelessbarbarism；whileontheotherhand，shouldcivilizedmaneverreachthesedistantlands，andbringmoral，intellectual，andphysicallightintotherecessesofthesevirginforests，wemaybesurethathewillsodisturbthenicely-balancedrelationsoforganicandinorganicnatureastocausethedisappearance，andfinallytheextinction，oftheseverybeingswhosewonderfulstructureandbeautyhealoneisfittedtoappreciateandenjoy。Thisconsiderationmustsurelytellusthatalllivingthingswere_not_madeforman。Manyofthemhavenorelationtohim。Thecycleoftheirexistencehasgoneonindependentlyofhis，andisdisturbedorbrokenbyeveryadvanceinman\'sintellectualdevelopment；andtheirhappinessandenjoyment，theirlovesandhates，theirstrugglesforexistence，theirvigorouslifeandearlydeath，wouldseemtobeimmediatelyrelatedtotheirownwell-beingandperpetuationalone，limitedonlybytheequalwell-beingandperpetuationofthenumberlessotherorganismswithwhicheachismoreorlessintimatelyconnected。

Afterthefirstking-birdwasobtained，Iwentwithmymenintotheforest，andwewerenotonlyrewardedwithanotherinequallyperfectplumage，butIwasenabledtoseealittleofthehabitsofbothitandthelargerspecies。Itfrequentsthelowertreesofthelessdenseforests：andisveryactive，flyingstronglywithawhirringsound，andcontinuallyhoppingorflyingfrombranchtobranch。Iteatshardstone-bearingfruitsaslargeasagooseberry，andoftenfluttersitswingsafterthemanneroftheSouthAmericanmanakins，atwhichtimeitelevatesandexpandsthebeautifulfanswithwhichitsbreastisadorned。ThenativesofArucallit"Goby-goby。"

OnedayIgetunderatreewhereanumberoftheGreatParadisebirdswereassembled，buttheywerehighupinthethickestofthefoliage，andflyingandjumpingaboutsocontinuallythatI

couldgetnogoodviewofthem。AtlengthIshotone，butitwasayoungspecimen，andwasentirelyofarichchocolate-browncolour，withouteitherthemetallicgreenthroatoryellowplumesofthefull-grownbird。AllthatIhadyetseenresembledthis，andthenativestoldmethatitwouldbeabouttwomonthsbeforeanywouldbefoundinfullplumage。Istillhoped，therefore，togetsome。Theirvoiceismostextraordinary。Atearlymorn，beforethesunhasrisen，wehearaloudcryof"Wawk-wawk-wawk，wók-wók-wók，"whichresoundsthroughtheforest，changingitsdirectioncontinually。ThisistheGreatBirdofParadisegoingtoseekhisbreakfast。Otherssoonfollowhisexample；loriesandparroquetscryshrilly，cockatoosscream，king-hunterscroakandbark，andthevarioussmallerbirdschirpandwhistletheirmorningsong。AsIlielisteningtotheseinterestingsounds，I

realizemypositionasthefirstEuropeanwhohaseverlivedformonthstogetherintheAruislands，aplacewhichIhadhopedratherthanexpectedevertovisit。Ithinkhowmanybesidesmyselfhavelongedtoreachthesealmostfairyrealms，andtoseewiththeirowneyesthemanywonderfulandbeautifulthingswhichIamdailyencountering。ButnowAliandBaderoonareupandgettingreadytheirgunsandammunition，andlittleBriohashisfirelightedandisboilingmycoffee，andIrememberthatIhadablackcockatoobroughtinlatelastnight，whichImustskinimmediately，andsoIjumpupandbeginmyday\'sworkveryhappily。

ThiscockatooisthefirstIhaveseen，andisagreatprize。Ithasarathersmallandweakbody，longweaklegs，largewings，andanenormouslydevelopedhead，ornamentedwithamagnificentcrest，andarmedwithasharp-pointedhoofedbillofimmensesizeandstrength。Theplumageisentirelyblack，buthasalloveritthecuriouspowderywhitesecretioncharacteristicofcockatoo。

Thecheeksarebare，andofanintenseblood-redcolour。Insteadoftheharshscreamofthewhitecockatoos，itsvoiceisasomewhatplaintivewhistle。Thetongueisacuriousorgan，beingaslenderfleshycylinderofadeepredcolour，terminatedbyahornyblackplate，furrowedacrossandsomewhatprehensile。Thewholetonguehasaconsiderableextensilepower。Iwillhererelatesomethingofthehabitsofthisbird，withwhichIhavesincebecomeacquainted。Itfrequentsthelowerpartsoftheforest，andisseensingly，oratmosttwoorthreetogether。Itfliesslowlyandnoiselessly，andmaybekilledbyacomparativelyslightwound。Iteatsvariousfruitsaridseeds，butseemsmoreparticularlyattachedtothekernelofthekanary-

nut，whichgrowsonaloftyforesttree(Canariumcommune)，abundantintheislandswherethisbirdisfound；andthemannerinwhichitgetsattheseseedsshowsacorrelationofstructureandhabits，whichwouldpointoutthe"kanary"asitsspecialfood。Theshellofthisnutissoexcessivelyhardthatonlyaheavyhammerwillcrackit；itissomewhattriangular，andtheoutsideisquitesmooth。Themannerinwhichthebirdopensthesenutsisverycurious。Takingoneendwaysinitsbillandkeepingitfirmbyapressureofthetongue，itcutsatransversenotchbyalateralsawingmotionofthesharp-edgedlowermandible。

Thisdone，ittakesholdofthenutwithitsfoot，andbitingoffapieceofleafretainsitinthedeepnotchoftheuppermandible，andagainseizingthenut，whichispreventedfromslippingbytheelastictissueoftheleaf，fixestheedgeofthelowermandibleinthenotch，andbyapowerfulnipbreaksofapieceoftheshell。againtakingthenutinitsclaws，itinsertstheverylongandsharppointofthebillandpicksoutthekernel，whichisseizedholdof，morselbymorsel，bytheextensibletongue。Thuseverydetailofform。andstructureintheextraordinarybillofthisbirdseemstohaveitsuse，andwemayeasilyconceivethattheblackcockatooshavemaintainedthemselvesincompetitionwiththeirmoreactiveandmorenumerouswhiteallies，bytheirpowerofexistingonakindoffoodwhichnootherbirdisabletoextractfromitsstonyshell。

ThespeciesistheMicroglossumaterrimumofnaturalists。

DuringthetwoweekswhichIspentinthislittlesettlement，I

hadgoodopportunitiesofobservingthenativesattheirownhome，andlivingintheirusualmanner。Thereisagreatmonotonyanduniformityineverydaysavagelife，anditseemedtomeamoremiserableexistencethanwhenithadthecharmofnovelty。

Tobeginwiththemostimportantfactintheexistenceofuncivilizedpeoples——theirfood——theArumenhavenoregularsupply，nostaffoflife，suchasbread，rice，mandiocca，maize，orsago，whicharethedailyfoodofalargeproportionofmankind。Theyhave，however，manysortsofvegetables，plantains，yams，sweetpotatoes，andrawsago；andtheychewupvastquantitiesofsugar-cane，aswellasbetel-nuts，gambir，andtobacco。Thosewholiveonthecoasthaveplentyoffish；butwheninland，aswearehere，theyonlygototheseaoccasionally，andthenbringhomecocklesandothershell-fishbytheboatload。Nowandthentheygetwildpigorkangaroo，buttoorarelytoformanythinglikearegularpartoftheirdiet，whichisessentiallyvegetable；andwhatisofmoreimportance，asaffectingtheirhealth，green，wateryvegetables，imperfectlycooked，andeventheseinvaryingandofteninsufficientquantities。Tothisdietmaybeattributedtheprevalenceofskindiseases，andulcersonthelegsandjoints。Thescurfyskindiseasesocommonamongsavageshasacloseconnexionwiththepoornessandirregularityoftheirliving。TheMalays，whoareneverwithouttheirdailyrice，aregenerallyfreefromit；thehill-DyaksofBorneo，whogrowriceandlivewell，arecleanskinnedwhilethelessindustriousandlesscleanlytribes，wholiveforaportionoftheyearonfruitsandvegetablesonly，areverysubjecttothismalady。Itseemsclearthatinthis，asinotherrespects，manisnotabletomakeabeastofhimselfwithimpunity，feedinglikethecattleontheherbsandfruitsoftheearth，andtakingnothoughtofthemorrow。Tomaintainhishealthandbeautyhemustlabourtopreparesomefarinaceousproductcapableofbeingstoredandaccumulated，soastogivehimaregularsupplyofwholesomefood。Whenthisisobtained，hemayaddvegetables，fruits，andmeatwithadvantage。

ThechiefluxuryoftheArupeople，besidesbetelandtobacco，isarrack(Javarum)，whichthetradersbringingreatquantitiesandsellverycheap。Aday\'sfishingorrattancuttingwillpurchaseatleastahalf-gallonbottle；andwhenthetripangorbirds\'nestscollectedduringaseasonaresold，theygetwholeboxes，eachcontainingfifteensuchbottles，whichtheinmatesofahousewillsitrounddayandnighttilltheyhavefinished。

Theythemselvestellmethatatsuchboutstheyoftenteartopiecesthehousetheyarein，breakanddestroyeverythingtheycanlaytheirhandson，andmakesuchaninfernalriotasisalarmingtobehold。

Thehousesandfurnitureareonaparwiththefood。Arudeshed，supportedonroughandslendersticksratherthanposts，nowalls，butthefloorraisedtowithinafootoftheeaves，isthestyleofarchitecturetheyusuallyadopt。Insidetherearepartitionwallsofthatch，forminglittleboxesorsleepingplaces，toaccommodatethetwoorthreeseparatefamiliesthatusuallylivetogether。Afewmats，baskets，andcookingvessels，withplatesandbasinspurchasedfromtheMacassartraders，constitutetheirwholefurniture；spearsandbowsaretheirweapons；asarongormatformstheclothingofthewomen，awaistclothofthemen。Forhoursorevenfordaystheysitidleintheirhouses，thewomenbringinginthevegetablesorsagowhichformtheirfood。Sometimestheyhuntorfishalittle，orworkattheirhousesorcanoes，buttheyseemtoenjoypureidleness，andworkaslittleastheycan。Theyhavelittletovarythemonotonyoflife，littlethatcanbecalledpleasure，exceptidlenessandconversation。Andtheycertainlydotalk！

EveryeveningthereisalittleBabelaroundme：butasI

understandnotawordofit，Igoonwithmybookorworkundisturbed。Nowandthentheyscreamandshout，orlaughfranticallyforvariety；andthisgoesonalternatelywithvociferoustalkingofmen，women，andchildren，tilllongafterI

aminmymosquitocurtainandsoundasleep。

AtthisplaceIobtainedsomelightonthecomplicatedmixtureofracesinAru，whichwouldutterlyconfoundanethnologist。Manyofthe，natives，thoughequallydarkwiththeothers，havelittleofthePapuanphysiognomy，buthavemoredelicatefeaturesoftheEuropeantype，withmoreglossy，curlinghair：Theseatfirstquitepuzzledme，fortheyhavenomoreresemblancetoMalaythantoPapuan，andthedarknessofskinandhairwouldforbidtheideaofDutchintermixture。Listeningtotheirconversation，however，Idetectedsomewordsthatwerefamiliartome。"Accabó"

wasone；andtobesurethatitwasnotanaccidentalresemblance，IaskedthespeakerinMalaywhat"accabó"meant，andwastolditmeant"doneorfinished，"atruePortugueseword，withitsmeaningretained。Again，Iheardtheword"jafui"oftenrepeated，andcouldsee，withoutinquiry，thatitsmeaningwas"he\'sgone，"asinPortuguese。"Porco，"too，seemsacommonname，thoughthepeoplehavenoideaofitsEuropeanmeaning。Thisclearedupthedifficulty。IatonceunderstoodthatsomeearlyPortuguesetradershadpenetratedtotheseislands，andmixedwiththenatives，influencingtheirlanguage，andleavingintheirdescendantsformanygenerationsthevisiblecharacteristicsoftheirrace。IftothisweaddtheoccasionalmixtureofMalay，Dutch，andChinesewiththeindigenousPapuans，wehavenoreasontowonderatthecuriousvarietiesofformandfeatureoccasionallytobemetwithinAru。InthisveryhousetherewasaMacassarman，withanAruwifeandafamilyofmixedchildren。InDobboIsawaJavaneseandanAmboynaman，eachwithanAruwifeandfamily；andasthiskindofmixturehasbeengoingonforatleastthreehundredyears，andprobablymuchlonger，ithasproducedadecidedeffectonthephysicalcharacteristicsofaconsiderableportionofthepopulationoftheislands，moreespeciallyinDobboandthepartsnearesttoit。

March28th——The"Orang-kaya"beingveryillwithfeverhadbeggedtogohome，andhadarrangedwithoneofthemenofthehousetogoonwithmeashissubstitute。NowthatIwantedtomove，thebugbearofthepirateswasbroughtup，anditwaspronouncedunsafetogofurtherthanthenextsmallriver。Thisworldnotsuitme，asIhaddeterminedtotraversethechannelcalledWatelaitothe"blakang-tana；"butmyguidewasfirminhisdreadofpirates，ofwhichIknewtherewasnownodanger，asseveralvesselshadgoneinsearchofthem，aswellasaDutchgunboatwhichhadarrivedsinceIleftDobbo。Ihad，fortunately，bythistimeheardthattheDutch"Commissie"hadreallyarrived，andthereforethreatenedthatifmyguidedidnotgowithmeimmediately，Iwouldappealtotheauthorities，andhewouldcertainlybeobligedtogigabacktheclothwhichthe"Orang-

kaya"hadtransferredtohiminprepayment。Thishadthedesiredeffect；mattersweresoonarranged，andwestartedthenextmorning。Thewind，however，wasdeadagainstus，andafterrowinghardtillmiddayweputintoasmallriverwheretherewerefewhuts，tocookourdinners。Theplacedidnotlookverypromising，butaswecouldnotreachourdestination，theWatelairiver，owingtothecontrarywind，Ithoughtwemightaswellwaithereadayortwo。Ithereforepaidachopperfortheuseofasmallshed，andgotmybedandsomeboxesonshore。Intheevening，afterdark，weweresuddenlyalarmedbythecryof"Bajak！

bajak！"(Pirates！)Themenallseizedtheirbowsandspears，andrusheddowntothebeach；wegotholdofourgunsandpreparedforaction，butinafewminutesallcamebacklaughingandchattering，forithadprovedtobeonlyasmallboatandsomeoftheirowncomradesreturnedfromfishing。Whenallwasquietagain，oneofthemen，whocouldspeakalittleMalay，cametomeandbeggedmenottosleeptoohard。"Why？"saidI。"Perhapsthepiratesmayreallycome，"saidheveryseriously，whichmademelaughandassurehimIshouldsleepashardasIcould。

Twodayswerespenthere，buttheplacewasunproductiveofinsectsorbirdsofinterest，sowemadeanotherattempttogeton。Assoonaswegotalittleawayfromthelandwehadafairwind，andinsixhours\'sailingreachedtheentranceoftheWatelaichannel，whichdividesthemostnortherlyfromthemiddleportionofAru。Atitsmouththiswasabouthalfamilewide，butsoonnarrowed，andamileortwoonitassumedentirelytheaspectofariveraboutthewidthoftheThamesatLondon，windingamonglowbutundulatingandoftenhillycountry。Thescenewasexactlysuchasmightbeexpectedintheinteriorofacontinent。Thechannelcontinuedofauniformaveragewidth，withreachesandsinuousbends，onebankbeingoftenprecipitous，orevenformingverticalcliffs，whiletheotherwasflatandapparentlyalluvial；anditwasonlythepuresalt-water，andtheabsenceofanystreambuttheslightfluxandrefluxofthetide，thatwouldenableapersontotellthathewasnavigatingastraitandnotariver。Thewindwasfair，andcarriedusalong，withoccasionalassistancefromouroars，tillaboutthreeintheafternoon，whenwelandedwherealittlebrookformedtwoorthreebasinsinthecoralrock，andthenfellinaminiaturecascadeintothesaltwaterriver。Herewebathedandcookedourdinner，andenjoyedourselveslazilytillsunset，whenwepursuedourwayfortwohourssnore，andthenmooredourlittlevesseltoanoverhangingtreeforthenight。

Atfivethenextmorningwestartedagain，andinanhourovertookfourlargeprauscontainingthe"Commissie，"whohadcomefromDobbotomaketheirofficialtourroundtheislands，andhadpassedusintheeight。IpaidavisittotheDutchmen，oneofwhomspokealittleEnglish，butwefoundthatwecouldgetonmuchbetterwithMalay。Theytoldmethattheyhadbeendelayedgoingafterthepiratestooneofthenorthernislands，andhadseenthreeoftheirvesselsbutcouldnotcatchthem，becauseonbeingpursuedtheyrowedoutinthewind\'seye，whichtheyareenabledtodobyhavingaboutfiftyoarstoeachboat。

Havinghadsometeawiththorn，Ibadethemadieu，andturnedupanarrowchannelwhichourpilotsaidwouldtakeustothevillageofWatelai，onthewestside-ofAre。Aftergoingsomemileswefoundthechannelnearlyblockedupwithcoral，sothatourboatgratedalongthebottom，crunchingwhatmaytrulybecalledthelivingrock。Sometimesallhandshadtogetoutandwade，tolightenthevesselandliftitovertheshallowestplaces；butatlengthweovercameallobstaclesandreachedawidebayorestuarystuddedwithlittlerocksandislets，andopeningtothewesternseaandthenumerousislandsofthe"blakang-tuna。"Inowfoundthatthevillageweweregoingtowasmilesaway；thatweshouldhavetogoouttosea，androundarockypoint。Asquallseemedcomingon，andasIhaveahorrorofsmallboatsatsea，andfromallIcouldlearnWatelaivillagewasnotaplacetostopat(nobirdsofParadisebeingfoundthere)，IdeterminedtoreturnandgotoavillageIhadheardofupatributaryoftheWatelairiver，andsituatednearlyinthecentreofthemainlandofAru。Thepeoplethereweresaidtobegood，andtobeaccustomedtohuntingandbird-catching，beingtoofarinlandtogetanypartoftheirfoodfromthesea。WhileIwasdecidingthispointthesquallburstuponus，andsoonraisedarollingseaintheshallowwater，whichupsetanoilbottleandalamp，brokesomeofmycrockery，andthrewusallintoconfusion。Rowinghardwemanagedtogetbackintothemainriverbydusk，andlookedoutforaplacetocookoursuppers。Ithappenedtobehighwater，andaveryhightide，sothateverypieceofsandorbeachwascovered，anditwaswiththegreatestdifficulty，andaftermuchgropinginthedark，thatwediscoveredalittleslopingpieceofrockabouttwofeetsquareonwhichtomakeafireandcooksomerice。Thenextdaywecontinuedourwayback，andonthefollowingdayenteredastreamonthesouthsideoftheWatelairiver，andascendingtowherenavigationceasedfoundthelittlevillageofWanumbai，consistingoftwolargehousessurroundedbyplantations，amidthevirginforestsofAru。

AsIlikedthelookoftheplace，andwasdesirousofstayingsometime，Isentmypilottotryandmakeabargainforhouseaccommodation。Theownerandchiefmanoftheplacemademanyexcuses。First，bewasafraidIwouldnotlikehishouse，andthenwasdoubtfulwhetherhisson，whowasaway，wouldlikehisadmittingme。Ihadalongtalkwithhimmyself，andtriedtoexplainwhatIwasdoing，andhowmanythingsIwouldbuyofthem，andshowedhimmystockofheads，andknives，andcloth，andtobacco，allofwhichIwouldspendwithhisfamilyandfriendsifhewouldgivemehouse-room。Heseemedalittlestaggeredatthis，andsaidhe，wouldtalktohiswife，andinthemeantimeIwentforalittlewalktoseetheneighbourhood。

WhenIcarneback，Iagainsentmypilot，sayingthatIwouldgoawayifhewouldnotdivemepartofhishouse。Inabouthalfanhourhereturnedwithademandforabouthalfthecostofbuildingahouse，fortherentofasmallportionofitforafewweeks。Astheonlydifficultynowwasapecuniaryone，Igotoutabouttenyardsofcloth，anaxe，withafewbeadsandsometobacco，andsentthemasmyfinalofferforthepartofthehousewhichIhadbeforepointedout。Thiswasacceptedafteralittlemoretalk，andIimmediatelyproceededtotakepossession。

Thehousewasagoodlargeone，raisedasusualaboutsevenfeetonposts，thewallsaboutthreeorfourfeetmore，withahigh-

pitchedroof。Thefloorwasofbamboolaths，andintheslopingroofwayanimmenseshutter，whichcouldbeliftedandproppeduptoadmitlightandair。Attheendwherethiswassituatedthefloorwasraisedaboutafoot，andthispiece，abouttenfeetwidebytwentylong，quiteopentotherestofthehouse，wastheportionIwastooccupy。Atoneendofthispiece，separatedbyathatchpartition，wasacookingplace，withaclayfloorandshelvesforcrockery。AttheoppositeendIhadmymosquitocurtainhung，androundthewallswearrangedmyboxesandotherstores，fatedupatableandseat，andwithalittlecleaninganddustingmadetheplacelookquitecomfortable。Myboatwasthenhauleduponshore，andcoveredwithpalm-leaves，thesailsandoarsbroughtindoors，ahanging-stagefordryingmyspecimenserectedoutsidethehouseandanotherinside，andmyboysweresettocleantheirgnusandgetailreadyforbeginningwork。

ThenextdayIoccupiedmyselfinexploringthepathsintheimmediateneighbourhood。Thesmallriverupwhichwehadascendedceasestobenavigableatthispoint，abovewhichitisalittlerockybrook，whichquitedriesupinthehotseason。Therewasnow，however，afairstreamofwaterinit；andapathwhichwaspartlyinandpartlybythesideofthewater，promisedwellforinsects，asIheresawthemagnificentbluebutterfly，Papilioulysses，aswellasseveralotherfinespecies，floppinglazilyalong，sometimesrestinghighuponthefoliagewhichdroopedoverthewater，atotherssettlingdownonthedamprockorontheedgesofmuddypools。Alittlewayonseveralpathsbranchedoffthroughpatchesofsecond-growthforesttocane-fields，gardens，andscatteredhouses，beyondwhichagainthedarkwallofverdurestripedwithtree-trunks，markedoutthelimitsoftheprimevalforests。Thevoicesofmanybirdspromisedgoodshooting，andonmyreturnIfoundthatmyboyshadalreadyobtainedtwoorthreekindsIhadnotseenbefore；andintheeveninganativebroughtmearareandbeautifulspeciesofground-thrush(Pittanovaeguinaeae)hithertoonlyknownfromNewGuinea。

AsIimprovedmyacquaintancewiththemIbecamemuchinterestedinthesepeople，whoareafairsampleofthetruesavageinhabitantsoftheAruIslands，tolerablyfreefromforeignadmixture。ThehouseIlivedincontainedfourorfivefamilies，andthereweregenerallyfromsixtoadozenvisitorsbesides。

Theykeptupacontinualrowfrommorningtillnight——talking，laughing，shouting，withoutintermission——notverypleasant，butinterestingasastudyofnationalcharacter。MyboyAlisaidtome，"BanyakquotbitcharaOrangAru"(TheArupeopleareverystrongtalkers)，neverhavingbeenaccustomedtosucheloquenceeitherinhisownoranyothercountryhehadhithertovisited。

Ofaneveningthemen，havinggotovertheirfirstshyness，begantotalktomealittle，askingaboutmycountry，&c。，andinreturnIquestionedthemaboutanytraditionstheyhadoftheirownorigin。Ihad，however，verylittlesuccess，forIcouldnotpossiblymakethemunderstandthesimplequestionofwheretheArupeoplefirstcamefrom。Iputitineverypossiblewaytothem，butitwasasubjectquitebeyondtheirspeculations；theyhadevidentlyneverthoughtofanythingofthekind，andwereunabletoconceiveathingsoremoteandsounnecessarytobethoughtabout，astheirownorigin。Findingthishopeless，I

askediftheyknewwhenthetradewithArufirstbegan，whentheBugisandChineseandMacassarmenfirstcameintheirpraustobuytripangandtortoise-shell，andbirds\'nests，aridParadisebirds？

Thistheycomprehended，butrepliedthattherehadalwaysbeenthesametradeaslongastheyortheirfathersrecollected，butthatthiswasthefirsttimearealwhitemanhadcomeamongthem，and，saidthey，"Youseehowthepeoplecomeeverydayfromallthevillagesroundtolookatyou。"Thiswasveryflattering，andaccountedforthegreatconcourseofvisitorswhichIhadatfirstimaginedwasaccidental。AfewyearsbeforeIhadbeenoneofthegazersattheZoolus，andtheAztecsinLondon。Nowthetableswereturneduponme，forIwastothesepeopleanewandstrangevarietyofman，andhadthehonourofaffordingtothem，inmyownperson，anattractiveexhibition，gratis。

AllthemenandboysofAruareexpertarchers，neverstirringwithouttheirbowsandarrows。Theyshootallsortsofbirds，aswellaspigsandkangaroosoccasionally，andthushaveatolerablygoodsupplyofmeattoeatwiththeirvegetables。Theresultofthisbetterlivingissuperiorhealthiness，well-madebodies，andgenerallyclearskins。Theybroughtmenumbersofsmallbirdsinexchangeforbeadsortobacco，butmauledthemterribly，notwithstandingmyrepeatedinstructions。Whentheygotabirdalivetheywouldoftentieastringtoitsleg，andkeepitadayortwo，tillitsplumagewassodraggledanddirtiedastobealmostworthless。OneofthefirstthingsIgotfromtherewasalivingspecimenofthecuriousandbeautifulracquet-tailedkingfisher。SeeinghowmuchIadmiredit，theyafterwardsbroughtmeseveralmore，whichworeallcaughtbeforedaybreak，sleepingincavitiesoftherockybanksofthestream。Myhuntersalsoshotafewspecimens，andalmostallofthemhadtheredbillmoreorlesscloggedwithmudandearth。Thisindicatesthehabitsofthebird，which，thoughpopularlyaking-fisher，nevercatchesfish，butlivesoninsectsandminuteshells，whichitpicksupintheforest，dartingdownuponthemfromitsperchonsomelowbranch。ThegenusTanysiptera，towhichthisbirdbelongs，isremarkablefortheenormouslylengthenedtail，whichinallotherkingfishersissmallandshort。Linnaeusnamedthespeciesknowntohim"thegoddesskingfisher"(Alcedodea)，fromitsextremegraceandbeauty，theplumagebeingbrilliantblueandwhite，withthebillred，likecoral。Severalspeciesoftheseinterestingbirdsarenowknown，allconfinedwithintheverylimitedareawhichcomprisestheMoluccas，NewGuinea，andtheextremeNorthofAustralia。Theyresembleeachothersocloselythatseveralofthemcanonlybedistinguishedbycarefulcomparison。Oneoftherarest，however，whichinhabitsNewGuinea，isverydistinctfromtherest，beingbrightredbeneathinsteadofwhite。ThatwhichInowobtainedwasanewone，andhasbeennamedTanysipterahydrocharis，butingeneralformandcolorationitisexactlysimilartothelargerspeciesfoundinAmboyna，andfiguredatpage468ofmyfirstvolume。

Newandinterestingbirdswerecontinuallybroughtin，eitherbymyownboysorbythenatives，andattheendofaweekAliarrivedtriumphantoneafternoonwithafinespecimenoftheGreatBirdofParadise。Theornamentalplumeshadnotyetattainedtheirfullgrowth，buttherichnessoftheirglossyorangecolouring，andtheexquisitedelicacyofthelooselywavingfeathers，wereunsurpassable。Atthesametimeagreatblackcockatoowasbroughtin，aswellasafinefruit-pigeonandseveralsmallbirds，sothatwewereallkepthardatworkskinningtillsunset。Justaswehadclearedawayandpackedupforthenight，astrangebeastwasbrought，whichhadbeenshotbythenatives。Itresembledinsize，andinitswhitewoollycovering，asmallfatlamb，buthadshortlegs，hand-likefeetwithlargeclaws，andalongprehensiletail。ItwasaCuscus(C。

maculatus)，oneofthecuriousmarsupialanimalsofthePapuanregion，andIwasverydesiroustoobtaintheskin。Theowners，however，saidtheywantedtoeatit；andthoughIofferedthemagoodprice，andpromisedtogivethemallthemeat，therewasgrouthesitation。Suspectingthereason，Ioffered，thoughitwasnight，tosettoworkimmediatelyandgetoutthebodyforthem，towhichtheyagreed。Thecreaturewasmuchhackedabout，andthetwohindfeetalmostcutoff；butitwasthelargestandfinestspecimenofthekindIhadseen；andafteranhour\'shardworkI

handedoverthebodytotheowners，whoimmediatelycutitupandroasteditforsupper。

Asthiswasaverygoodplaceforbirds，Ideterminedtoremainamonthlonger，andtooktheopportunityofanativeboatgoingtoDobbo，tosendAliforafreshsupplyofammunitionandprovisions。Theystartedonthe10thofApril，andthehousewascrowdedwithaboutahundredmen，boys，women，andgirls，bringingtheirloadsofsugar-cane，plantains，sirih-leaf，yams，&c。；oneladgoingfromeachhousetoselltheproduceandmakepurchases。Thenoisewasindescribable。Atleastfiftyofthehundredwerealwaystalkingatonce，andthatnotinthelowmeasuredtonesoftheapatheticallypoliteMalay，butwithloudvoices，shouts，andscreaminglaughter，inwhichthewomenandchildrenwereevenmoreconspicuousthanthemen。Itwasonlywhilegazingatmethattheirtonguesweremoderatelyquiet，becausetheireyeswerefullyoccupied。Theblackvegetablesoilhereoverlyingthecoralrockisveryrich，andthesugar-canewasfinerthananyIhadeverseen。Thecanesbroughttotheboatwereoftentenandeventwelvefeetlong，andthickinproportion，withshortjointsthroughout，swellingbetweentheknotswiththe，abundanceoftherichjuice。AtDobbotheygetahighpriceforit，1d。to3d。astick，andthereisaninsatiabledemandamongthecrewsoftheprausandtheBabafishermen。Heretheyeatitcontinually。Theyhalfliveonit，andsometimesfeedtheirpigswithit。Neareveryhousearegreatheapsoftherefusecane；andlargewicker-basketstocontainthisrefuseasitisproducedformaregularpartofthefurnitureofahouse。

Whatevertimeofthedayyouenter，youaresuretofindthreeorfourpeoplewithayardofcaneinonehand，aknifeintheother，andabasketbetweentheirlegs，hacking，paring，chewing，andbasket-filling，withaperseveringassiduitywhichremindsoneofahungrycowgrazing，orofacaterpillareatingupaleaf。

Afterfivedays\'absencetheboatsreturnedfromDobbo，bringingAliandallthethingsIhadsentforquitesafe。Alargepartyhadassembledtobereadytocarryhomethegoodsbrought，amongwhichwereagoodmanycocoa-nut，whichareagreatluxuryhere。

Itseemsstrangethattheyshouldneverplantthem；butthereasonsimplyis，thattheycannotbringtheirheartstoburyagoodnutfortheprospectiveadvantageofacroptwelveyearshence。Thereisalsothechanceofthefruitsbeingdugupandeatenunlesswatchednightandday。AmongthethingsIhadsentforwasaboxofarrack，andIwasnowofcoursebesiegedwithrequestsforalittledrop。Igavethemaflask(abouttwobottles，whichwasverysoonfinished，andIwasassuredthatthereweremanypresentwhohadnothadataste。AsIfearedmyboxwouldverysoonbeemptiedifIsuppliedalltheirdemands，I

toldthemIhadgiventhemone，butthesecondtheymustpayfor，andthatafterwardsImusthaveaParadisebirdforeachflask。

Theyimmediatelysentroundtoalltheneighbouringhouses，andmustereduparupeeinDutchcoppermoney，gottheirsecondflask，anddrunkitasquicklyasthefirst，andwerethenverytalkative，butlessnoisyandimportunatethanIhadexpected。

Twoorthreeofthemgotroundmeandbeggedmeforthetwentiethtimetotellthemthenameofmycountry。Then，astheycouldnotpronounceitsatisfactorily，theyinsistedthatIwasdeceivingthem，andthatitwasanameofmyowninvention。Onefunnyoldman，whoborealudicrousresemblance，toafriendofmineathome，wasalmostindignant。"Ung-lung！"saidhe，"whoeverheardofsuchaname？——anglang——anger-lung——thatcan\'tbethenameofyourcountry；youareplayingwithus。"Thenhetriedtogiveaconvincingillustration。"MycountryisWanumbai——anybodycansayWanumbai。I\'man`orang-Wanumbai；but，N-glung！whoeverheardofsuchaname？Dotellustherealnameofyourcountry，andthenwhenyouaregoneweshallknowhowtotalkaboutyou。"TothisluminousargumentandremonstranceIcouldopposenothingbutassertion，andthewholepartyremainedfirmlyconvincedthatIwasforsomereasonorotherdeceivingthem。Theythenattackedmeonanotherpoint——whatalltheanimalsandbirdsandinsectsandshellswerepreservedsocarefullyfor。Theyhadoftenaskedmethisbefore，andIhadtriedtoexplaintothemthattheywouldbestuffed，andmadetolookasifalive，andpeopleinmycountrywouldgotolookatthem。Butthiswasnotsatisfying；inmycountrytheremustbemanybetterthingstolookat，andtheycouldnotbelieveIwouldtakesomuchtroublewiththeirbirdsandbeastsjustforpeopletolookat。Theydidnotwanttolookatthem；andwe，whomadecalicoandglassandknives，andallsortsofwonderfulthings，couldnotwantthingsfromArutolookat。Theyhadevidentlybeenthinkingaboutit，andhadatlengthgotwhatseemedaverysatisfactorytheory；forthesameoldmansaidtome，inalow，mysteriousvoice，"Whatbecomesofthemwhenyougoontothesea？""Why，theyareallpackedupinboxes，"saidI"Whatdidyouthinkbecameofthem？""Theyallcometolifeagain，don\'tthey？"saidhe；andthoughItriedtojokeitoff，andsaidiftheydidweshouldhaveplentytoeatatsea，hestucktohisopinion，andkeptrepeating，withanairofdeepconviction，"Yes，theyallcometolifeagain，that\'swhattheydo——theyallcometolifeagain。"

Afteralittlewhile，andagooddealoftalkingamongthemselves，hebeganagain——"Iknowallaboutit——ohyes！Beforeyoucamewehadraineveryday——verywetindeed；now，eversinceyouhavebeenhere，itisfinehotweather。Oh，yes！Iknowallaboutit；youcan\'tdeceiveme。"AndsoIwassetdownasaconjurer，andwasunabletorepelthecharge。Buttheconjurerwascompletelypuzzledbythenextquestion："What，"saidtheoldman，"isthegreatship，wheretheBugisandChinamengotoselltheirthings？Itisalwaysinthegreatsea——itsnameisJong；

tellusallaboutit。"InvainIinquiredwhattheyknewaboutit；theyknewnothingbutthatitwascalled"Jong，"andwasalwaysinthesea，andwasaverygreatship，andconcludedwith，"Perhapsthatisyourcountry？"FindingthatIcouldnotorwouldnottellthemanythingabout"Jong，"therecamemoreregretsthatIwouldnottellthemtherealnameofmycountry；andthenalongstringofcompliments，totheeffectthatIwasamuchbettersortofapersonthantheBugisandChinese，whosometimescametotradewiththem，forIgavethemthingsfornothing，anddidnottrytocheatthem。HowlongwouldIstop？wasthenextearnestinquiry。WouldIstaytwoorthreemonths？Theywouldgetmeplentyofbirdsandanimals，andImightsoonfinishallthegoodsIhadbrought，andthen，saidtheoldspokesman，"Don\'tgoaway，butsendformorethingsfromDobbo，andstayhereayearortwo。"Andthenagaintheoldstory，"Dotellusthenameofyourcountry。WeknowtheBugismen，andtheMacassarmen，andtheJavamen，andtheChinamen；onlyyou，wedon\'tknowfromwhatcountryyoucome。Ung-lung！itcan\'tbe；Iknowthatisnotthenameofyourcountry。"Seeingnoendtothislongtalk，I

saidIwastired，andwantedtogotosleep；soafterbegging——

onealittlebitofdryfishforhissupper，andanotheralittlesalttoeatwithhissago——theywentoffveryquietly，andIwentoutsideandtookastrollroundthehousebymoonlight，thinkingofthesimplepeopleandthestrangeproductionsofAru，andthenturnedinundermymosquitocurtain；tosleepwithasenseofperfectsecurityinthemidstofthesegood-naturedsavages。

Wenowhadsevenoreightdaysofhotanddryweather，whichreducedthelittlerivertoasuccessionofshallowpoolsconnectedbythesmallestpossiblethreadoftricklingwater。IftherewereadryseasonlikethatofMacassar，theAruIslandswouldbeuninhabitable，asthereisnopartofthemmuchaboveahundredfeethigh；andthewholebeingamassofporouscorallinerock，allowsthesurfacewaterrapidlytoescape。TheonlydryseasontheyhaveisforamonthortwoaboutSeptemberorOctober，andthereisthenanexcessivescarcityofwater，sothatsometimeshundredsofbirdsandotheranimalsdieofdrought。Thenativesthenremovetohousesnearthesourcesofthesmallstreams，where，intheshadydepthsoftheforest，asmallquantityofwaterstillremains。Eventhenmanyofthemhavetogomilesfortheirwater，whichtheykeepinlargebamboosanduseverysparingly。Theyassuremethattheycatchandkillgameofallkinds，bywatchingatthewaterholesorsettingsnaresaroundthem。Thatwouldbethetimeformetomakemycollections；butthewantofwaterwouldbeaterribleannoyance，andtheimpossibilityofgettingawaybeforeanotherwholeyearhadpassedmadeitoutofthequestion。

EversinceleavingDobboIhadsufferedterriblyfrominsects，whoseemedherebentuponrevengingmylong-continuedpersecutionoftheirrace。Atourfirststopping-placesand-flieswereveryabundantatnight，penetratingtoeverypartofthebody，andproducingamorelastingirritationthanmosquitoes。Myfeetandanklesespeciallysuffered，andwerecompletelycoveredwithlittleredswollenspecks，whichtormentedmehorribly。Onarrivinghereweweredelightedtofindthehousefreefromsand-

fliesormosquitoes，butintheplantationswheremydailywalksledme，theday-bitingmosquitoesswarmed，andseemedespeciallytodelightinattachingmypoorfeet。Afteramonth\'sincessantpunishment，thoseusefulmembersrebelledagainstsuchtreatmentandbrokeintoopeninsurrection，throwingoutnumerousinflamedulcers，whichwereverypainful，andstoppedmefromwalking。SoIfoundmyselfconfinedtothehouse，andwithnoimmediateprospectofleavingit。Woundsorsoresinthefeetareespeciallydifficulttohealinhotclimates，andIthereforedreadedthemmorethananyotherillness。Theconfinementwasveryannoying，asthefinehotweatherwasexcellentforinsects，ofwhichIhadeverypromiseofobtainingafinecollection；anditisonlybydailyandunremittingsearchthatthesmallerkinds，andtherarerandmoreinterestingspecimens，canbeobtained。WhenIcrawleddowntotheriver-sidetobathe，Ioftensawtheblue-wingedPapilioulysses，orsomeotherequallyrareandbeautifulinsect；buttherewasnothingforitbutpatience，andtoreturnquietlytomybird-skinning，orwhateverotherworkIhadindoors。Thestingsandbitesandceaselessirritationcausedbythesepestsofthetropicalforests，wouldbeborneuncomplainingly；buttobekeptprisonerbytheminsorichandunexploredacountrywhererareandbeautifulcreaturesaretobemetwithineveryforestramble——acountryreachedbysuchalongandtediousvoyage，andwhichmightnotinthepresentcenturybeagainvisitedforthesamepurpose——isapunishmenttoosevereforanaturalisttopassoverinsilence。

Ihad，however，someconsolationinthebirdsmyboysbroughthomedaily，moreespeciallytheParadiseas，whichtheyatlengthobtainedinfullplumage。Itwasquitearelieftomymindtogetthese，forIcouldhardlyhavetornmyselfawayfromAruhadI

notobtainedspecimens。

ButwhatIvaluedalmostasmuchasthebirdsthemselveswastheknowledgeoftheirhabits，whichIwasdailyobtainingbothfromtheaccountsofmyhunters，andfromtheconversationofthenatives。Thebirdshadnowcommencedwhatthepeopleherecalltheir"sacaleli，"ordancing-parties，incertaintreesintheforest，whicharenotfruittreesasIatfirstimagined，butwhichhaveanimmensetreadofspreadingbranchesandlargebutscatteredleaves，givingaclearspaceforthebirdstoplayandexhibittheirplumes。Ononeofthesetreesadozenortwentyfull-plumagedmalebirdsassembletogether，raiseuptheirwings，stretchouttheirnecks，andelevatetheirexquisiteplumes，keepingtheminacontinualvibration。Betweenwhilestheyflyacrossfrombranchtobranchingreatexcitement，sothatthewholetreeisfilledwithwavingplumesineveryvarietyofattitudeandmotion。(SeeFrontispiece。)Thebirditselfisnearlyaslargeasacrow，andisofarichcoffeebrowncolour。

Theheadandneckisofapurestrawyellowaboveandrichmetallicgreenbeneath。Thelongplumytuftsofgoldenorangefeathersspringfromthesidesbeneatheachwing，andwhenthebirdisinreposearepartlyconcealedbythem。Atthetimeofitsexcitement，however，thewingsareraisedverticallyovertileback，theheadisbentdownandstretchedout，andthelongplumesareraisedupandexpandedtilltheyformtwomagnificentgoldenfans，stripedwithdeepredatthebase，andfadingoffintothepalebrowntintofthefinelydividedandsoftlywavingpoints。Thewholebirdisthenovershadowedbythem，thecrouchingbody，yellowhead，andemeraldgreenthroatformingbutthefoundationandsettingtothegoldenglorywhichwavesabove。

Whenseeninthisattitude，theBirdofParadisereallydeservesitsname，andmustberankedasoneofthemostbeautifulandmostwonderfuloflivingthings。Icontinuedalsotogetspecimensofthelovelylittleking-birdoccasionally，aswellasnumbersofbrilliantpigeons，sweetlittleparroquets，andmanycurioussmallbirds，mostnearlyresemblingthoseofAustraliaandNewGuinea。

Here，asamongmostsavagepeopleIhavedweltamong，Iwasdelightedwiththebeautyofthehumanform-abeautyofwhichstay-at-homecivilizedpeoplecanscarcelyhaveanyconception。

WhatarethefinestGrecianstatuestotheliving，moving，breathingmenIsawdailyaroundme？Theunrestrainedgraceofthenakedsavageashegoesabouthisdailyoccupations，orloungesathisease，mustbeseentobeunderstood；andayouthbendinghisbowistheperfectionofmanlybeauty。Thewomen，however，exceptinextremeyouth，arebynomeanssopleasanttolookatasthemen。Theirstrongly-markedfeaturesareveryunfeminine，andhardwork，privations，andveryearlymarriagessoondestroywhateverofbeautyorgracetheymayforashorttimepossess。Theirtoiletisverysimple，butalso，Iamsorrytosay，verycoarse，anddisgusting。Itconsistssolelyofamatofplaitedstripsofpalmleaves，worntightroundthebody，andreachingfromthehipstotheknees。Itseemsnottobechangedtillwornout，isseldomwashed，andisgenerallyverydirty。

Thisistheuniversaldress，exceptinafewcaseswhereMalay"sarongs"havecomeintouse。Theirfrizzlyhairistiedinabenchatthebackofthehead。Theydelightincombing，orratherforkingit，usingforthatpurposealargewoodenforkwithfourdivergingprongs，whichanswersthepurposeofseparatingandarrangingthelongtangled，frizzlymassofcranialvegetationmuchbetterthananycombcoulddo。Theonlyornamentsofthewomenareearringsandnecklaces，whichtheyarrangeinvarioustastefulways。Theendsofanecklaceareoftenattachedtotheearrings，andthenloopedontothehair-knotbehind。Thishasreallyanelegantappearance，thebeadshanginggracefullyoneachsideofthehead，andbyestablishingaconnexionwiththeearringsgiveanappearanceofutilitytothosebarbarousornaments。Werecommendthisstyletotheconsiderationofthoseofthefairsexwhostillboreholesintheirearsandhangringsthereto。AnotherstyleofnecklaceamongthesePapuanbellesistoweartwo，eachhangingononesideoftheneckandundertheoppositearm，soastocrosseachother。Thishasaveryprettyappearance，inpartduetothecontrastofthewhitebeadsorkangarooteethofwhichtheyarecomposedwiththedarkglossyskin。Theearringsthemselvesareformedofabarofcopperorsilver，twistedsothattheendscross。Themen，asusualamongsavages，adornthemselvesmorethanthewomen。Theywearnecklaces，earrings，andfingerrings，anddelightinabandofplaitedgrasstightroundthearmjustbelowtheshoulder，towhichtheyattachabunchofhairorbrightcolouredfeathersbywayofornament。Theteethofsmallanimals，eitheralone，oralternatelywithblackorwhitebeads，formtheirnecklaces，andsometimesbraceletsalso。Fortheselatter，however，theypreferbrasswire，ortheblack，horny，wing-spinesofthecassowary，whichtheyconsideracharm。Ankletsofbrassorshell，andtightplaitedgartersbelowtheknee，completetheirordinarydecorations。

SomenativesofKobrorfromfurthersouth，andwhoarereckonedtheworstandleastcivilizedoftheArutribes，cameonedaytovisitus。Theyhavearathermorethanusuallysavageappearance，owingtothegreateramountofornamentstheyuse——themostconspicuousbeingalargehorseshoe-shapedcombwhichtheywearovertheforehead，theendsrestingonthetemples。Thebackofthecombisfastenedintoapieceofwood，whichisplatedwithtininfront，andaboveisattachedaplumeoffeathersfromacock\'stail。InotherrespectstheyscarcelydifferedfromthepeopleIwaslivingwith。Theybroughtmeacoupleofbirds，someshellsandinsects；showingthatthereportofthewhitemanandhisdoinghadreachedtheircountry。TherewasprobablyhardlyamaninAruwhohadnotbythistimeheardofme。

Besidesthedomesticutensilsalreadymentioned，themoveablepropertyofanativeisveryscanty。Hehasagoodsupplyofspearsandbowsandarrowsforhunting，aparang，orchopping-

knife，andanaxe-forthestoneagehaspassedawayhere，owingtothecommercialenterpriseoftheBugisandotherMalayraces。

Attachedtoabelt，orhungacrosshisshoulder，hecarrionalittleskinpouchandanornamentedbamboo，containingbetel-nut，tobacco，andlime，andasmallGermanwooden-handledknifeisgenerallystuckbetweenhiswaist-clothofbarkandhisbareshin。Eachmanalsopossessesa°cadjan，"orsleeping-mat，madeofthebroadleavesofapandanusneatlysewntogetherin-threelayers。Thismatisabortfourfeetsquare，andwhenfoldedhasoneendsewnup，sothatitformsakindofsackopenatoneside。Intheclosedcornertheheadorfeetcanbeplaced，orbycarryingitontheheadinashoweritformsbothcoatandumbrella。Itdoublesupixasmallcompassforconvenientcarriage，andthenformsalightandelasticcushion，sothatonajourneyitbecomesclothing，house，bedding，andfurniture，allinone。

TheonlyornamentsinanAruhorsearetrophiesofthechase——

jawsofwildpigs，theheadsandbackbonesofcassowaries，andplumesmadefromthefeathersoftheBirdofParadise，cassowary，anddomesticfowl。Thespears，shields，knife-handles，andotherutensilsaremoreorlesscarvedinfancifuldesigns，andthematsandleafboxesarepaintedorplaitedinneatpatternsofred，black，andyellowcolours。Imustnotforgettheseboxes，whicharemostingeniouslymadeofthepithofabalmleafpeggedtogether，linedinsidewithpandanusleaves，andoutsidewiththesame，orwithplaitedgrass。Allthejointsandanglesarecofferedwithstripsofsplitrattansewnneatlyon。ThelidiscoveredwiththebrownleatheryspatheoftheArecapalm，whichisimpervioustowater，andthewholeboxisneat，strong，andwellfinished。Theyaremadefromafewinchestotwoorthreefeetlong，andbeingmuchesteemedbytheMalayasclothes-boxes，arearegulararticleofexportfromAru。Thenativesusethesmalleronesfortobaccoorbetel-nut，butseldomhaveclothesenoughtorequirethelargerones，whichareonlymadeforsale。

Amongthedomesticanimalswhichmaygenerallybeseeninnativehouses，aregaudyparrots，green，red，andblue，afewdomesticfowls，whichhavebasketshungforthemtolayinundertheeaves，andwhosleepontheridge，andseveralhalf-starvedwolfish-bakingdogs。Insteadofratsandmicetherearecuriouslittlemarsupialanimalsaboutthesamesize，whichrunaboutatnightandnibbleanythingeatablethatmaybeleftuncovered。

Fourorfivedifferentkindsofantsattackeverythingnotisolatedbywater，andonekindevenswimsacrossthat；greatspiderslurkinbasketsandboxes，orhideinthefoldsofmymosquitocurtain；centipedesandmillepedesarefoundeverywhere。

Ihavecaughtthemundermypillowandonmybead；whileineverybox，andundereveryhoardwhichhaslainforsomedaysundisturbed，littlescorpionsaresuretobefoundsnuglyensconced，withtheirformidabletailsquicklyturnedupreadyforattackordefence。Suchcompanionsseemveryalarminganddangerous，butallcombinedarenotsobadastheirritationofmosquitoes，oroftheinsectpestsoftenfoundathome。Theselatterareaconstantandunceasingsourceoftormentanddisgust，whereasyoumaylivealongtimeamongscorpions，spiders，andcentipedes，uglyandvenomousthoughtheyare，andgetnoharmfromthem。Afterlivingtwelveyearsinthetropics，Ihaveneveryetbeenbittenorstungbyeither。