第14章

Theleanandhungrydogsbeforementionedweremygreatestenemies，andkeptmeconstantlyonthewatch。Ifmyboysleftthebirdtheywereskinningforaninstant，itwassuretobecarriedoff。Everythingeatablehadtobehunguptotheroof，tobeoutoftheirreach。AlihadjustfinishedskinningafineKingBirdofParadiseoneday，whenhedroppedtheskin。Beforehecouldstooptopickitup，oneofthisfamishedracehadseizeduponit，andheonlysucceededinrescuingitfromitsfangsafteritwastorntotatters。TwoskinsofthelargeParadisea，whichwerequitedryandreadytopackaway，wereincautiouslyleftonmytableforthenight，wrappedupinpaper。Thenextmorningtheyweregone，andonlyafewscatteredfeathersindicatedtheirfate。Myhangingshelfwasoutoftheirreach；buthavingstupidlyleftaboxwhichservedasastep，afull-plumagedParadisebirdwasnextmorningmissing；andadogbelowthehousewastobeseenstillmumblingoverthefragments，withthefinegoldenplumesalltrampledinthemud。Everynight，assoonasI

wasinbed，Icouldhearthemsearchingaboutforwhattheycoulddevour，undermytable，andallaboutmyboxesandbaskets，keepingmeinastateofsuspensetillmorning，lestsomethingofvaluemightincautiouslyhavebeenleftwithintheirread。Theywoulddrinktheoilofmyfloatinglampandeatthewick，andupsetorbreakmycrockeryifmylazyboyshadneglectedtowashawayeventhesmellofanythingeatable。Bad，however，astheyarehere，theywereworseinaDyak\'shouseinBorneowhereIwasoncestaying，fortheretheygnawedoffthetopsofmywaterproofboots，atealargepieceoutofanoldleathergame-bag，besidesdevouringaportionofmymosquitocurtain！

April28th——Lasteveningwehadagrandconsultation，whichhadevidentlybeenarrangedanddiscussedbeforehand。Anumberofthenativesgatheredroundme，andsaidtheywantedtotalk。TwoofthebestMalayscholarshelpedeachother，therestputtinginhintsandideasintheirownlanguage。Theytoldmealongramblingstory；but，partlyowingtotheirimperfectknowledgeofMalay，partlythroughmyignoranceoflocalterms，andpartlythroughtheincoherenceoftheirnarrative，Icouldnotmakeitoutveryclearly。Itwas，however，atradition，andIwasgladtofindtheyhadanythingofthekind。Alongtimeago，theysaid，somestrangerscametoAru，andcameheretoWanumbai，andthechiefoftheWanumbaipeopledidnotlikethem，andwantedthemtogoaway，buttheywouldnotgo，andsoitcametofighting，andmanyArumenwerekilled，andsome，alongwiththechief，weretakenprisoners，andcarriedawaybythestrangers。Someofthespeakers，however，saidthathewasnotcarriedaway，butwentawayinhisownboattoescapefromtheforeigners，andwenttotheseaandnevercamebackagain。Buttheyallbelievethatthechiefandthepeoplethatwentwithhimstillliveinsomeforeigncountry；andiftheycouldbutfindoutwhere，theywouldsendforthemtocomebackagain。Nowhavingsomevagueideathatwhitemenmustknoweverycountrybeyondthesea，theywantedtoknowifIhadmettheirpeopleinmycountryorinthesea。Theythoughttheymustbethere，fortheycouldnotimaginewhereelsetheycouldbe。Theyhadsoughtforthemeverywhere，theysaid——onthelandandinthesea，intheforestandonthemountains，intheairandinthesky，andcouldnotfindthem；therefore，theymustbeinmycountry，andtheybeggedmetotellthem，forI

mustsurelyknow，asIcamefromacrossthegreatsea。Itriedtoexplaintothemthattheirfriendscouldnothavereachedmycountryinsmallboats；andthattherewereplentyofislandslikeAruallaboutthesea，whichtheywouldbesuretofind。

Besides，asitwassolongago，thechiefandallthepeoplemustbedead。Buttheyquitelaughedatthisidea，andsaidtheyweresuretheywerealive，fortheyhadproofofit。Andthentheytoldmethatagoodmanyyearsago，whenthespeakerswereboys，someWokanmenwhowereoutfishingmettheselostpeopleinthesea，andspoketothem；andthechiefgavetheWokanmenahundredfathomsofclothtobringtothemenofWanumbai，toshowthattheywerealiveandwouldsooncomebacktothem，buttheWokanmenwerethieves，andkeptthecloth，andtheyonlyheardofitafterwards；andwhentheyspokeaboutit，theWokanmendeniedit，andpretendedtheyhadnotreceivedthecloth；——sotheywerequitesuretheirfriendswereatthattimealiveandsomewhereinthesea。Andagain，notmanyyearsago，areportcametothemthatsomeBu0gistradershadbroughtsomechildrenoftheirlostpeople；sotheywenttoDobbotoseeaboutit，andtheownerofthehouse，whowasnowspeakingtome，wasonewhowent；buttheBugisroanwouldnotletthemseethechildren，andthreatenedtokillthemiftheycameintohishouse。Hekeptthechildrenshutupinalargebox，andwhenhewentawayhetookthemwithhim。Andattheendofeachofthesestories，theybeggedmeinanimploringtonetotellthemifIknewwheretheirchiefandtheirpeoplenowwere。

Bydintofquestioning，Igotsomeaccountofthestrangerswhohadtakenawaytheirpeople。Theysaidtheywerewonderfullystrong，andeachonecouldkillagreatmanyArumen；andwhentheywerewounded，howeverbadly，theyspitupontheplace，anditimmediatelybecamewell。Andtheymadeagreatnetofrattans，andentangledtheirprisonersinit，andsunktheminthewater；

andthenextday，whentheypulledthenetuponshore，theymadethedrownedmencometolifeagain，andcarriedthemaway。

Muchmoreofthesamekindwastoldme，butinsoconfusedandramblingamannerthatIcouldmakenothingoutofit，tillI

inquiredhowlongagoitwasthatallthishappened，whentheytoldmethataftertheirpeopleweretakenawaytheBugiscameintheirpraustotradeinAru，andtobuytripangandbirds\'nests。

ItisnotimpossiblethatsomethingsimilartowhattheyrelatedtomereallyhappenedwhentheearlyPortuguesediscoverersfirstcarnetoAru，andhasformedthefoundationforacontinuallyincreasingaccumulationoflegendandfable。Ihavenodoubtthattothenextgeneration，orevenbefore，Imyselfshallbetransformedintoamagicianorademigod，aworkerofmiracles，andabeingofsupernaturalknowledge。TheyalreadybelievethatalltheanimalsIpreservewillcometolifeagain；andtotheirchildrenitwillberelatedthattheyactuallydidso。AnunusualspelloffineweathersettinginjustatmyarrivalhasmadethembelieveIcancontroltheseasons；andthesimplecircumstanceofmyalwayswalkingaloneintheforestisawonderandamysterytothem，aswellasmyaskingthemaboutbirdsandanimalsIhavenotyetseen，andshowinganacquaintancewiththeirform，colours，andhabits。ThesefactsarebroughtagainstmewhenI

disclaimknowledgeofwhattheywishmetotellthem。"Youmustknow，"saythey；"youknoweverything：youmakethefineweatherforyourmentoshoot，andyouknowallaboutourbirdsandouranimalsaswellaswedo；andyougoaloneintotheforestandarenotafraid。"Thereforeeveryconfessionofignoranceonmypartisthoughttobeablind，amereexcusetoavoidtellingthemtoomuch。Myverywritingmaterialsandbooksaretothemweirdthings；andwereItochoosetomystifythembyafewsimpleexperimentswithlensandmagnet，miracleswithoutendwouldinafewyearsclusteraboutme；andfuturetravellers，penetratingtoWanumbai，worldhhardlybelievethatapoorEnglishnaturalist，whohadresidedafewmonthsamongthem，couldhavebeentheoriginalofthesupernaturalbeingtowhomsomanymarvelswereattributed。

FarsomedaysIhadnoticedagooddealofexcitement，andmanystrangerscameandwentarmedwithspearsandcutlasses，bowsandshields。Inowfoundtherewaswarnearus——twoneighbouringvillageshavingaquarrelaboutsomematteroflocalpoliticsthatIcouldnotunderstand。Theytoldmeitwasquiteacommonthing，andthattheyarerarelywithoutfightingsomewherenear。

Individualquarrelsaretakenupbyvillagesandtribes，andthenonpaymentofthestipulatedpriceforawifeisoneofthemostfrequentcausesofbitternessandbloodshed。Oneofthewarshieldswasbroughtmetolookat。Itwasmadeofrattansandcoveredwithcottontwist，soastobebothlight，strong，andverytough。Ishouldthinkitwouldresistanyordinarybullet。

Abortthemiddletherewasauarm-holewithashutterorflapoverit。Thisenablesthearmtobeputthroughandthebowdrawn，whilethebodyandface，uptotheeyes，remainprotected，whichcannotbedoneiftheshieldiscarriedonthearmbyloopsattachedatthebackintheordinaryway。Afewoftheyoungmenfromourhousewenttohelptheirfriends，butIcouldnotbearthatanyofthemwerehurt，orthattherewasmuchhardfighting。

May8th-IhadnowbeensixweeksatWanumbai，butformorethanhalfthetimewaslaidupinthehousewithulceratedfeet。Mystoresbeingnearlyexhausted，andmybirdandinsectboxesfull，andhavingnoimmediateprospectofgettingtheuseofmylegsagain，IdeterminedonreturningtoDobbo。Birdshadlatelybecomeratherscarce，andtheParadisebirdshadnotyetbecomeasplentifulasthenativesassuredmetheywouldbeinanothermonth。TheWanumbaipeopleseemedverysorryatmydeparture；andwelltheymightbe，fortheshellsandinsectstheypickeduponthewaytoandfromtheirplantations，andthebirdsthelittleboysshotwiththeirbowsandarrows，keptthemallwellsuppliedwithtobaccoandgambir，besidesenablingthemtoaccumulateastockofbeadsandcoppersforfutureexpenses。Theownerofthehousewassuppliedgratiswithalittlerice，fish，orsalt，wheneverheaskedforit，whichImustsaywasnotveryoften。Onparting，Idistributedamongthemmyremnantstockofsaltandtobacco，andgavemyhostaflaskofarrack，andbelievethatonthewholemystaywiththesesimpleandgood-naturedpeoplewasproductiveofpleasureandprofittobothparties。Ifullyintendedtocomeback；andhadIknownthatcircumstanceswouldhavepreventedmydoingso，shoedhavefeltsomesorrowinleavingaplacewhereIhadfirstseensomanyrareandbeautifullivingthings，andbadsofullyenjoyedthepleasurewhichfillstheheartofthenaturalistwhenheissofortunateastodiscoveradistricthithertounexplored，andwhereeverydaybringsforthnewandunexpectedtreasures。Weloadedourboatintheafternoon，and，startingbeforedaybreak，bythehelpofafairwindreachedDobbolatethesameevening。

CHAPTERXXXII。

THEARUISLANDS——SECONDRESIDENCEATDOBBO。

(MAYANDJUNE1857。)

DOBBOwasfulltooverflowing，andIwasobligedtooccupythecourt-housewheretheCommissionersholdtheirsittings。Theyhadnowlefttheisland，andIfoundthesituationagreeable，asitwasattheendofthevillage，withaviewdowntheprincipalstreet。Itwasamereshed，buthalfofithadaroughlyboardedfloor，andbyputtingupapartitionandopeningawindowImadeitaverypleasantabode。InoneoftheboxesIhadleftinchargeofHerrWarzbergen，acolonyofsmallantshadsettledanddepositedmillionsofeggs。Itwasluckilyafinehotday，andbycarryingtheboxsomedistancefromthehouse，andplacingeveryarticleinthesunshineforanhourortwo，Igotridofthemwithoutdamage，astheywerefortunatelyaharmlessspecies。

Dobbonowpresentedananimatedappearance。Fiveorsixnewhouseshadbeenaddedtothestreet；theprauswereallbroughtroundtothewesternsideofthepoint，wheretheywerehauleduponthebeach，andwerebeingcaulkedandcoveredwithathickwhitelime-plasterforthehomewardvoyage，makingthemthebrightestandcleanestlookingthingsintheplace。Mostofthesmallboatshadreturnedfromthe"blakang-tana"(backcountry)，asthesideoftheislandstowardsNewGuineaiscalled。Pilesoffirewoodwerebeingheapedupbehindthehouses；sail-makersandcarpenterswerebusyatwork；mother-of-pearlshellwasbeingtiedupinbundles，andtheblackanduglysmokedtripangwashavingalastexposuretothesunbeforeloading。Thespareportionofthecrewswereemployedcuttingandsquaringtimber，andboatsfromCeramandGoramwereconstantlyunloadingtheircargoesofsago-cakeforthetraders\'homewardvoyage。Thefowls，ducks，andgoatsalllookedfatandthrivingontherefusefoodofadensepopulation，andtheChinamen\'spigswereinastateofobesitythatforebodedearlydeath。ParrotsandToriesandcockatoos，ofadozendifferentbinds，weresuspendedonbambooperchesatthedoorsofthehouses，withmetallicgreenorwhitefruit-pigeonswhichcooedmusicallyatnoonandeventide。Youngcassowaries，strangelystripedwithblackandbrown，wanderedaboutthehousesorgambolledwiththeplayfulnessofkittensinthehotsunshine，withsometimesaprettylittlekangaroo，caughtintheAruforests，butalreadytameandgracefulasapettedfawn。

Ofaneveningthereweremoresignsoflifethanatthetimeofmyformerresidence。Tom-toms，jews\'-harps，andevenfiddlesweretobeheard，andthemelancholyMalaysongssoundednotunpleasantlyfarintothenight。Almosteverydaytherewasacock-fightinthestreet。Thespectatorsmakearing，andafterthelongsteelspursaretiedon，andthepooranimalsaresetdowntogashandkilleachother，theexcitementisimmense。

Thosewholavemadebetsscreamandyellandjumpfrantically，iftheythinktheyaregoingtowinorlose，butinaveryfewminutesitisallover；thereisahurrahfromthewinners，theownersseizetheircocks，thewinningbirdiscaressedandadmired，theloserisgenerallydeadorverybadlywounded，andhismastermayoftenbeseenpluckingouthisfeathersashewalksaway，preparinghimforthecookingpotwhilethepoorbirdisstillalive。

Agameatfoot-ball，whichgenerallytookplaceatsunset，was，however，muchmoreinterestingtome。Theballusedisarathersmallone，andismadeofrattan，hollow，light，andelastic。Theplayerkeepsitdancingalittlewhileonhisfoot，thenoccasionallyonhisarmorthigh，tillsuddenlyhegivesitagoodblowwiththehollowofthefoot，andsendsitflyinghighintheair。Anotherplayerrunstomeetit，andatitsfirstboundcatchesitonhisfootandplaysinhisturn。Theballmustneverbetouchedwiththehand；butthearm，shoulder，knee，orthighareusedatpleasuretorestthefoot。Twoorthreeplayedveryskilfully，keepingtheballcontinuallyflyingabout，buttheplacewastooconfinedtoshowoffthegametoadvantage。Oneeveningaquarrelarosefromsomedisputeinthegame，andtherewasagreatrow，anditwasfearedtherewouldbeafightaboutit——nottwomenonly，butapartyofadozenortwentyoneachside，aregularbattlewithknivesandkrisses；butafteralargeamountoftalkitpassedoffquietly，andweheardnothingaboutitafterwards。

MostEuropeansbeinggiftedbynaturewithaluxuriantgrowthofhairupontheirfaces，thinkitdisfiguresthem，andkeepupacontinualstruggleagainstherbymowingdowneverymorningthecropwhichhassproutedupflaringtheprecedingtwenty-fourhours。NowthemenofMongolianraceare，naturally，justasmanyofuswanttohe。Theymostlypasstheirliveswithfacesassmoothandbeardlessasaninfant\'s。Butshavingseemsaninstinctofthehumanrace；formanyofthesepeople，havingnohairtotakeofftheirfaces，shavetheirheads。Others，however，setresolutelytoworktoforcenaturetogivethemabeard。Oneofthechiefcock-fightersatDobbowasaJavanese，asortofmasteroftheceremoniesofthering，whotiedonthesparsandactedasbacker-uptooneofthecombatants。Thismanhadsucceeded，byassiduouscultivation，inraisingapairofmoustacheswhichwereatriumphofart，fortheyeachcontainedaboutadozenhairsmorethanthreeincheslong，andwhich，beingwellgreasedandtwisted，weredistinctlyvisible(whennottoofaroff)asablackthreadhangingdownoneachsideofhismouth。Butthebeardtomatchwasthedifficulty，fornaturehadcruellyrefusedtogivehimarudimentofhaironhischin，andthemosttalentedgardenercouldnotdomuchifhehadnothingtocultivate。Buttruegeniustriumphsoverdifficulties。Althoughtherewasnohairproperonthechin；therehappenedtobe，ratherononesideofit，asmallmoleorfrecklewhichcontained(assuchthingsfrequentlydo)afewstrayhairs。Thesehadbeenmadethemostof。Theyhadreachedfourorfiveinchesinlength，andformedanotherblackthreaddanglingfromtheleftangleofthechin。Theownercarriedthisasifitweresomethingremarkable(asitcertainlywas)；heoftenfeltitaffectionately，passeditbetweenhisfingers，andwasevidentlyextremelyproudofhismoustachesandbeard！

OneofthemostsurprisingthingsconnectedwithAruwastheexcessivecheapnessofallarticlesofEuropeanornativemanufacture。WewereheretwothousandmilesbeyondSingaporeandBatavia，whicharethemselvesemporiumsofthe"fareast，"inaplaceunvisitedby，andalmostunknownto，Europeantraders；

everythingreachedusthroughatleasttwoorthreehands，oftenmanymore；yetEnglishcalicoesandAmericancottonclothscouldbeboughtfor8s。thepiece，musketsfor15s。，commonscissorsandGermanknivesatthree-halfpenceeach，andothercutlery，cottongoods，andearthenwareinthesameproportion。Thenativesofthisout-of-the-waycountrycan，infact，buyallthesethingsataboutthesamemoneypriceasourworkmenathome，butinrealityverymuchcheaper，fortheproduceofafewhours\'labourenablesthesavagetopurchaseinabundancewhataretohimluxuries，whiletotheEuropeantheyarenecessariesoflife。Thebarbarianisnohappierandnobetteroffforthischeapness。Onthecontrary，ithasamostinjuriouseffectonhim。Hewantsthestimulusofnecessitytoforcehimtolabour；andifironwereasdearassilver，andcalicoascostlyassatin，theeffectwouldbebeneficialtohim。Asitis，hehasmoreidlehours，getsamoreconstantsupplyoftobacco，andcanintoxicatehimselfwitharrackmorefrequentlyandmorethoroughly；foryourArumanscornstogethalfdrunk-atumblerfullofarrackisbutaslightstimulus，andnothinglessthanhalfagallonofspiritwillmakehimtipsytohisownsatisfaction。

Itisnotagreeabletoreflectonthisstateofthings。Atleasthalfofthevastmultitudesofuncivilizedpeoples，onwhomourgiganticmanufacturingsystem，enormouscapital，andintensecompetitionforcetheproduceofourloomsandworkshops，wouldbenotawhitworseoffphysically，andwouldcertainlybeimprovedmorally，ifallthearticleswithwhichwesupplythemweredoubleortrebletheirpresentprices。Ifatthesametimethedifferenceofcost，oralargeportionofit，couldfinditswayintothepocketsofthemanufacturingworkmen，thousandswouldberaisedfromwanttocomfort，fromstarvationtohealth，andwouldberemovedfromoneofthechiefincentivestocrime。

ItisdifficultforanEnglishmantoavoidcontemplatingwithprideourgiganticandever-increasingmanufacturesandcommerce，andthinkingeverythinggoodthatrenderstheirprogressstillmorerapid，eitherbyloweringthepriceatwhichthearticlescanbeproduced，orbydiscoveringnewmarketstowhichtheymaybesent。If，however，thequestionthatissofrequentlyaskedofthevotariesofthelesspopularscienceswereputhere——"Cuibono？"——itwouldbefoundmoredifficulttoanswerthanhadbeenimagined。Theadvantages，eventothefewwhoreapthem，wouldbeseentobemostlyphysical，whilethewide-spreadmoralandintellectualevilsresultingfromunceasinglabour，lowwages，crowdeddwellings，andmonotonousoccupations，toperhapsaslargeanumberasthosewhogainanyrealadvantage，mightbeheldtoshowabalanceofevilsogreat，astoleadthegreatestadmirersofourmanufacturesandcommercetodoubttheadvisabilityoftheirfurtherdevelopment。Itwillbesaid："Wecannotstopit；capitalmustbeemployed；ourpopulationmustbekeptatwork；ifwehesitateamoment，othernationsnowhardpressinguswillgetahead，andnationalruinwillfollow。"Someofthisistrue，somefallacious。Itisundoubtedlyadifficultproblemwhichwehavetosolve；andIaminclinedtothinkitisthisdifficultythatmakesmenconcludethatwhatseemsanecessaryandunalterablestateofthingsmustbegood-thatitsbenefitsmusthegreaterthanitsevils。ThiswasthefeelingoftheAmericanadvocatesofslavery；theycouldnotseeaneasy，comfortablewayoutofit。Inourowncase，however，itistobehoped，thatifafairconsiderationofthematterinallitshearingsshowsthatapreponderanceofevilarisesfromtheimmensityofourmanufacturesandcommerce-evilwhichmustgoonincreasingwiththeirincrease-thereisenoughbothofpoliticalwisdomandtruephilanthropyinEnglishmen，toinducethemtoturntheirsuperabundantwealthintootherchannels。Thefactthathasledtotheseremarksissurelyastrikingone：thatinoneofthemostremotecornersoftheearthsavagescanbuyclothingcheaperthanthepeopleofthecountrywhereitismade；

thattheweaver\'schildshouldshiverinthewintrywind，unabletopurchasearticlesattainablebythewildnativesofatropicalclimate，whereclothingismereornamentorluxury，shouldmakeuspauseereweregardwithunmixedadmirationthesystemwhichhasledtosucharesult，andcauseustolookwithsomesuspiciononthefurtherextensionofthatsystem。Itmustberememberedtoothatourcommerceisnotapurelynaturalgrowth。

Ithasbeeneverfosteredbythelegislature，andforcedtoanunnaturalluxuriancebytheprotectionofourfleetsandarmies。

Thewisdomandthejusticeofthispolicyhavebeenalreadydoubted。Sosoon，therefore，asitisseenthatthefurtherextensionofourmanufacturesandcommercewouldbeanevil，theremedyisnotfartoseek。

Aftersixweeks\'confinementtothehouseIwasatlengthwell，andcouldresumemydailywalksintheforest。Ididnot，however，finditsoproductiveaswhenIhadfirstarrivedatDobbo。Therewasadampstagnationaboutthepaths，andinsectswereveryscarce。InsomeofmybestcollectingplacesInowfoundamassofrottingwood，mingledwithyoungshoots，andovergrownwithclimbers，yetIalwaysmanagedtoaddsomethingdailytomyextensivecollections。Ionedaymetwithacuriousexampleoffailureofinstinct，which，byshowingittobefallible，rendersitverydoubtfulwhetheritisanythingmorethanhereditaryhabit，dependentondelicatemodificationsofsensation。Somesailorscutdownagood-sizedtree，and，asisalwaysmypractice，Ivisiteditdailyforsometimeinsearchofinsects。Amongotherbeetlescameswarmsofthelittlecylindricalwoodborers(Platypus，Tesserocerus，&c。)，andcommencedmakingholesinthebark。AfteradayortwoIwassurprisedtofindhundredsofthemstickingintheholestheyhadbored，andonexaminationdiscoveredthatthemilkysapofthetreewasofthenatureofgutta-percha，hardeningrapidlyonexposuretotheair，andglueingthelittleanimalsinself-duggraves。Thehabitofboringholesintreesinwhichtodeposittheireggs，wasnotaccompaniedbyasufficientinstinctiveknowledgeofwhichtreesweresuitable，andwhichdestructivetothem。If，asisveryprobable，thesetreeshaveanattractiveodourtocertainspeciesofborers，itmightverylikelyleadtotheirbecomingextinct；whileotherspecies，towhomthesameodourwasdisagreeable，andwhothereforeavoidedthedangeroustrees，wouldsurvive，andwouldbecreditedbyuswithaninstinct，whereastheywouldreallybeguidedbyasimplesensation。

Thosecuriouslittlebeetles，theBrenthidae，wereveryabundantinAru。Thefemaleshaveapointedrostrum，withwhichtheyboredeepholesinthebarkofdeadtrees，oftenburyingtherostrumuptotheeyes，andintheseholesdeposittheireggs。Themalesarelarger，andhavetherostrumdilatedattheend，andsometimesterminatinginagood-sizedpairofjaws。Ioncesawtwomalesfightingtogether；eachhadafore-leglaidacrosstheneckoftheother，andtherostrumbentquiteinanattitudeofdefiance，andlookingmostridiculous。Anothertime，twowerefightingforafemale，whostoodclosebybusyatherboring。

Theypushedateachotherwiththeirrostra，andclawedandthumped，apparentlyinthegreatestrage，althoughtheircoatsofmailmusthavesavedbothfrominjury。Thesmallone，however，soonranaway，acknowledginghimselfvanquished。InmostColeopterathefemaleislargerthanthemale，anditisthereforeinteresting，asbearingonthequestionofsexualselection，thatinthiscase，asinthestag-beetleswherethemalesfighttogether，theyshouldbenotonlybetterarmed，butalsomuchlargerthanthefemales。Justasweweregoingaway，ahandsometree，alliedtoErythrina，wasinblossom，showingitsmassesoflargecrimsonflowersscatteredhereandthereabouttheforest。Couldithavebeenseenfromanelevation，itwouldhavehadafineeffect；frombelowIcouldonlycatchsightofmassesofgorgeouscolourinclustersandfestoonsoverhead，aboutwhichflocksofblueandorangelorieswereflutteringandscreaming。

AgoodmanypeoplediedatDobbothisseason；Ibelieveabouttwenty。TheywereburiedinalittlegroveofCasuarinasbehindmyhouse。Amongthetraderswasa。Mahometanpriest，whosuperintendedthefunerals，whichwereverysimple。Thebodywaswrappedupinnewwhitecottoncloth，andwascarriedonabiertothegrave。Allthespectatorssatdownontheground，andthepriestchantedsomeversesfromtheKoran。Thegraveswerefencedroundwithaslightbamboorailing，andalittlecarvedwoodenhead-postwasputtomarkthespot。Therewasalsointhevillageasmallmosque，whereeveryFridaythefaithfulwenttopray。

ThisisprobablymoreremotefromMeccathananyothermosqueintheworld，andmarksthefarthesteasternextensionoftheMahometanreligion。TheChinesehere，aselsewhere，showedtheirsuperiorwealthandcivilizationbytombstonesofsolidgranitebroughtfromSingapore，withdeeply-cutinscriptions，thecharactersofwhicharepaintedinred，blue，andgold。Nopeoplehavemorerespectforthegravesoftheirrelationsandfriendsthanthisstrange，ubiquitous，money-gettingpeople。

SoonafterwehadreturnedtoDobbo，myMacassarboy，Baderoon，tookhiswagesandleftme，becauseIscoldedhimforlaziness。

Hethenoccupiedhimselfingambling，andatfirsthadsomeluck，andboughtornaments，andhadplentyofmoney。Thenhisluckturned；helosteverything，borrowedmoneyandlostthat，andwasobligedtobecometheslaveofhiscreditortillhehadworkedoutthedebt。Hewasaquickandactiveladwhenhepleased，butwasapttobeidle，andhadsuchanincorrigiblepropensityforgambling，thatitwillverylikelyleadtohisbecomingaslaveforlife。

TheendofJunewasnowapproaching，theeastmonsoonhadsetinsteadily，andinanotherweekortwoDobbowouldbedeserted。

Preparationsfordeparturewereeverywherevisible，andeverysunnyday(ratherrarenow)thestreetswereascrowdedandasbusyasbeehives。Heapsoftripangwerefinallydriedandpackedupinsacks；mother-of-pearlshell，tiedupwithrattansintoconvenientbundles，wasalldaylongbeingcarriedtothebeachtobeloaded；water-caskswerefilled，andclothsandmat-sailsmendedandstrengthenedfortherunhomebeforethestrongeastwind。Almosteverydaygroupsofnativesarrivedfromthemostdistantpartsoftheislands，withcargoesofbananasandsugar-

canetoexchangefortobacco，sago，bread，andotherluxuries，beforethegeneraldeparture。TheChinamenkilledtheirfatpigandmadetheirpartingfeast，andkindlysentmesomepork，andabasinofbirds\'neststew，whichhadverylittlemoretastethanadishofvermicelli。MyboyAlireturnedfromWanumbai，whereI

hadsenthimaloneforafortnighttobuyParadisebirdsandpreparetheskins；hebroughtmesixteengloriousspecimens，andhadhenotbeenveryillwithfeverandaguemighthaveobtainedtwicethenumber。HehadlivedwiththepeoplewhosehouseIhadoccupied，anditisaproofoftheirgoodness，iffairlytreated，thatalthoughhetookwithhimaquantityofsilverdollarstopayforthebirdstheycaught，noattemptwasmadetorobhim，whichmighthavebeendonewiththemostperfectimpunity。Hewaskindlytreatedwhenill，andwasbroughtbacktomewiththebalanceofthedollarshehadnotspent。

TheWanumbaipeople，likealmostalltheinhabitantsoftheAruIslands，areperfectsavages，andIsawnosignsofanyreligion。

Thereare，however，threeorfourvillagesonthecoastwhereschoolmastersfromAmboynareside，andthepeoplearenominallyChristians，andaretosomeextenteducatedandcivilized。I

couldnotgetmuchrealknowledgeofthecustomsoftheArupeopleduringtheshorttimeIwasamongthem，buttheyhaveevidentlybeenconsiderablyinfluencedbytheirlongassociationwithMahometantraders。Theyoftenburytheirdead，althoughthenationalcustomistoexposethebodyanaraisedstagetillitdecomposes。Thoughthereisnolimittothenumberofwivesamanmayhave，theyseldomexceedoneortwo。Awifeisregularlypurchasedfromtheparents，thepricebeingalargeassortmentofarticles，alwaysincludinggongs，crockery，andcloth。Theytoldmethatsomeofthetribeskilltheoldmenandwomenwhentheycannolongerwork，butIsawmanyveryoldanddecrepidpeople，whoseemedprettywellattendedto。NodoubtallwhohavemuchintercoursewiththeBugisandCeramesetradersgraduallylosemanyoftheirnativecustoms，especiallyasthesepeopleoftensettleintheirvillagesandmarrynativewomen。

ThetradecarriedonatDobboisveryconsiderable。ThisyeartherewerefifteenlargeprausfromMacassar，andperhapsahundredsmallboatsfromCeram，Goram，andKe。TheMacassarcargoesareworthabout￡1，000。each，andtheotherboatstakeawayperhapsabout￡3，000，worth，sothatthewholeexportsmaybeestimatedat￡18，000。perannum。Thelargestandmostbulkyitemsarepearl-shellandtripang，or"beche-de-mer，"withsmallerquantitiesoftortoise-shell，ediblebirds\'nests，pearls，ornamentalwoods，timber，andBirdsofParadise。Thesearepurchasedwithavarietyofgoods。Ofarrack，aboutequalinstrengthtoordinaryWestIndiarum，3，000boxes，eachcontainingfifteenhalf-gallonbottles，areconsumedannually。NativeclothfromCelebesismuchesteemedforitsdurability，andlargequantitiesaresold，aswellaswhiteEnglishcalicoandAmericanunbleachedcottons，commoncrockery，coarsecutlery，muskets，gunpowder，gongs，smallbrasscannon，andelephants\'tusks。ThesethreelastarticlesconstitutethewealthoftheArupeople，withwhichtheypayfortheirwives，orwhichtheyhoardupas"realproperty。"Tobaccoisinimmensedemandforchewing，anditmustbeverystrong，oranArumanwillnotlookatit。Knowinghowlittlethesepeoplegenerallywork，themassofproduceobtainedannuallyshowsthattheislandsmustbeprettythicklyinhabited，especiallyalongthecoasts，asnine-tenthsofthewholearemarineproductions。

Itwasonthe2dofJulythatweleftAru，followedbyalltheMacassarpraus，fifteeninnumber，whohadagreedtosailincompany。WepassedsouthofBanda，andthensteeredduewest，notseeinglandforthreedays，tillwesightedsomelowislandswestofBouton。Wehadastrongandsteadysouth-eastwinddayandnight，whichcarriedusonataboutfiveknotsanhour，whereaclippershipwouldhavemadetwelve。Theskywascontinuallycloudy，dark，andthreatening，withoccasionaldrizzlingshowers，tillwewerewestofBouru，whenitclearedupandweenjoyedthebrightsunnyskiesofthedryseasonfortherestofourvoyage。

Itisabouthere，thereforethattheseasonsoftheeasternandwesternregionsoftheArchipelagoaredivided。WestofthislinefromJunetoDecemberisgenerallyfine，andoftenverydry，therestoftheyearbeingthewetseason。Eastofittheweatherisexceedinglyuncertain，eachisland，andeachsideofanisland，havingitsownpeculiarities。Thedifferenceseemstoconsistnotsomuchinthedistributionoftherainfallasinthatofthecloudsandthemoistnessoftheatmosphere。InAru，forexample，whenweleft，thelittlestreamswerealldriedup，althoughtheweatherwasgloomy；whileinJanuary，February，andMarch，whenwehadthehottestsunshineandthefinestdays，theywerealwaysflowing。ThedriesttimeofalltheyearinAruoccursinSeptemberandOctober，justasitdoesinJavaandCelebes。Therainyseasonsagree，therefore，withthoseofthewesternislands，althoughtheweatherisverydifferent。TheMoluccaseaisofaverydeepbluecolour，quitedistinctfromtheclearlightblueoftheAtlantic。Incloudyanddullweatheritlooksabsolutelyblack，andwhencrestedwithfoamhasasternandangryaspect。Thewindcontinuedfairandstrongduringourwholevoyage，andwereachedMacassarinperfectsafetyontheeveningofthe11thofJuly，havingmadethepassagefromAru(morethanathousandmiles)innineandahalfdays。

MyexpeditiontotheAruIslandshadbeeneminentlysuccessful。

AlthoughIhadbeenformonthsconfinedtothehousebyillness，andhadlostmuchtimebythewantofthemeansoflocomotion，andbymissingtherightseasonattherightplace，Ibroughtawaywithmemorethanninethousandspecimensofnaturalobjects，ofaboutsixteenhundreddistinctspecies。Ihadmadetheacquaintanceofastrangeandlittle-knownraceofmen；IhadbecomefamiliarwiththetradersofthefarEast；Ihadrevelledinthedelightsofexploringanewfaunaandflora，oneofthemostremarkableandmostbeautifulandleast-knownintheworld；

andIhadsucceededinthemainobjectforwhichIhadundertakenthejourney-namely，toobtainfinespecimensofthemagnificentBirdsofParadise，andtobeenabledtoobservethemintheirnativeforests。BythissuccessIwasstimulatedtocontinuemyresearchesintheMoluccasandNewGuineafornearlyfiveyearslonger，anditisstilltheportionofmytravelstowhichIlookbackwiththemostcompletesatisfaction。

CHAPTERXXXIII。

THEARUISLANDS——PHYSICALGEOGRAPHYANDASPECTSOFNATURE。

INthischapterIproposetogiveageneralsketchofthephysicalgeographyoftheAruIslands，andoftheirrelationtothesurroundingcountries；andshallthusbeabletoincorporatetheinformationobtainedfromtraders，andfromtheworksofothernaturalistswithmyownobservationsintheseexceedinglyinterestingandlittle-knownregions。

TheArugroupmaybesaidtoconsistofoneverylargecentralislandwithanumberofsmallonesscatteredroundit。Thegreatislandiscalledbythenativesandtraders"Tang-busar"(greatormainland)，todistinguishitasawholefromDobbo，oranyofthedetachedislands。Itisofanirregularoblongform，abouteightymilesfromnorthtosouth，andfortyorfiftyfromeasttowest，inwhichdirectionitistraversedbythreenarrowchannels，dividingitintofourportions。Thesechannelsarealwayscalledriversbythetraders，whichpuzzledmemuchtillI

passedthroughoneofthem，andsawhowexceedinglyapplicablethenamewas。Thenorthernchannel，calledtheriverofWatelai，isaboutaquarterofamilewideatitsentrance，butsoonnarrowstoaborttheeighthofamile，whichwidthitretains，withlittlevariation，duringitswhole，lengthofnearlyfiftymiles，tillitagainwidensatitseasternmouth。Itscourseismoderatelywinding，andthehanksaregenerallydryandsomewhatelevated。Inmanyplacestherearelowcliffsofhardcorallinelimestone，moreorlesswornbytheactionofwater；whilesometimeslevelspacesextendfromthebankstolowrangesofhillsalittleinland。Afewsmallstreamsenteritfromrightandleft，atthemouthsofwhicharesomelittlerockyislands。

Thedepthisveryregular，beingfromtentofifteenfathoms，andithasthuseveryfeatureofatrueriver，butforthesaltwaterandtheabsenceofacurrent。Theothertworivers，whosenamesareVorkaiandMaykor，aresaidtobeverysimilaringeneralcharacter；buttheyareratherneartogether，andhaveanumberofcrosschannelsintersectingtheflattractbetweenthem。OnthesouthsideofMaykorthebanksareveryrocky，andfromthencetothesouthernextremityofAruisanuninterruptedextentofratherelevatedandveryrockycountry，penetratedbynumeroussmallstreams，inthehighlimestonecliffsborderingwhichtheediblebirds\'nestsofAruarechieflyobtained。AllmyinformantsstatedthatthetwosouthernriversarelargerthanWatelai。

ThewholeofAruislow，butbynomeanssoflatasithasbeenrepresented，orasitappearsfromthesea。Mostofitisdryrockyground，withasomewhatundulatingsurface，risinghereandthereintoabrupthillocks，orcutintosteepandnarrowravines。

Exceptthepatchesofswampwhicharefoundatthemouthsofmostofthesmallrivers，thereisnoabsolutelylevelground，althoughthegreatestelevationisprobablynotmorethantwohundredfeet。Therockwhicheverywhereappearsintheravinesandbrooksisacorallinelimestone，insomeplacessoftandpliable，inotherssohardandcrystallineastoresembleourmountainlimestone。

Thesmallislandswhichsurroundthecentralmassareverynumerous；butmostofthemareontheeastside，wheretheyformafringe，oftenextendingtenorfifteenmilesfromthemainislands。Onthewestthereareveryfew，WammaandPaloPabibeingthechief，withOugia，andWassiaatthenorth-westextremity。Ontheeastsidetheseaiseverywhereshallow，andfullofcoral；anditisherethatthepearl-shellsarefoundwhichformoneofthechiefstaplesofArutrade。Alltheislandsarecoveredwithadenseandveryloftyforest。

Thephysicalfeaturesheredescribedareofpeculiarinterest，and，asfarasIamaware，aretosomeextentunique；forIhavebeenunabletofindanyotherrecordofanislandofthesizeofArucrossedbychannelswhichexactlyresembletruerivers。Howthesechannelsoriginatedwereacompletepuzzletome，till，afteralongconsiderationofthewholeofthenaturalphenomenapresentedbytheseislands，IarrivedataconclusionwhichI

willnowendeavourtoexplain。Therearethreewaysinwhichwemayconceiveislandswhicharenotvolcanictohavebeenformed，ortohavebeenreducedtotheirpresentcondition，byelevation，bysubsidence，orbyseparationfromacontinentorlargerisland。Theexistenceofcoralrock，orofraisedbeachesfarinland，indicatesrecentelevation；lagooncoral-islands，andsuchashavebarrierorencirclingreefs，havesufferedsubsidence；whileourownislands，whoseproductionsareentirelythoseoftheadjacentcontinent，havebeenseparatedfromit。NowtheAruIslandsareallcoralrock，andtheadjacentseaisshallowandfullofcoral，itisthereforeevidentthattheyhavebeenelevatedfrombeneaththeoceanatanotverydistantepoch。

Butifwesupposethatelevationtobethefirstandonlycauseoftheirpresentcondition，weshallfindourselvesquiteunabletoexplainthecuriousriver-channelswhichdividethem。Fissuresduringupheavalwouldnotproducetheregularwidth，theregulardepth，orthewindingcurveswhichcharacterisethem；andtheactionoftidesandcurrentsduringtheirelevationmightformstraitsofirregularwidthanddepth，butnottheriver-likechannelswhichactuallyexist。If，again，wesupposethelastmovementtohavebeenoneofsubsidence，reducingthesizeoftheislands，thesechannelsarequiteasinexplicable；forsubsidencewouldnecessarilyleadtothefloodingofalllowtractsonthebanksoftheoldrivers，andthusobliteratetheircourses；

whereastheseremainperfect，andofnearlyuniformwidthfromendtoend。

Nowifthesechannelshaveeverbeenriverstheymusthaveflowedfromsomehigherregions，andthismusthavebeentotheeast，becauseonthenorthandwestthesea-bottomsinksdownatashortdistancefromtheshoretoanunfathomabledepth；whereasontheeast。ashallowsea，nowhereexceedingfiftyfathoms，extendsquiteacrosstoNewGuinea，adistanceofaboutahundredandfiftymiles。Anelevationofonlythreehundredfeetwouldconvertthewholeofthisseaintomoderatelyhighland，andmaketheAruIslandsaportionofNewGuinea；andtheriverswhichhavetheirmouthsatUtanataandWamuka，mightthenhaveflowedonacrossAru，inthechannelswhicharenowoccupiedbysaltwater。Thentheinterveninglandsunkdown，wemustsupposethelandthatnowconstitutesArutohaveremainednearlystationary，anotveryimprobablesupposition，whenweconsiderthegreatextentoftheshallowsea，andtheverysmallamountofdepressionthelandneedhaveundergonetoproduceit。

ButthefactoftheAruIslandshavingoncebeenconnectedwithNewGuineadoesnotrestonthisevidencealone。Thereissuchastrikingresemblancebetweentheproductionsofthetwocountriesasonly-existsbetweenportionsofacommonterritory。I

collectedonehundredspeciesofland-birdsintheAruIslands，andabouteightyofthem，havebeenfoundonthemainlandofNewGuinea。Amongthesearethegreatwinglesscassowary，twospeciesofheavybrushturkeys，andtwoofshortwingedthrushes；whichcouldcertainlynothavepassedoverthe150milesofopenseatothecoastofNewGuinea。Thisbarrierisequallyeffectualinthecaseofmanyotherbirdswhichliveonlyinthedepthsoftheforest，asthekinghunters(Dacelogaudichaudi)，thefly-catchingwrens(Todopsis)，thegreatcrownpigeon(Gouracoronata)，andthesmallwooddoves(Ptilonopusperlatus，P。aurantiifrons，andP。coronulatus)。Now，toshowtherealeffectofsuchbarrier，letustaketheislandofCeram，whichisexactlythesamedistancefromNewGuinea，butseparatedfromitbyadeepsea。

Cutofaboutseventyland-birdsinhabitingCeram，onlyfifteenarefoundinNewGuinea，andnoneoftheseareterrestrialorforest-hauntingspecies。Thecassowaryisdistinct；thekingfishers，parrots，pigeons，flycatchers，honeysuckers，thrushes，andcuckoos，arealmostalwaysquitedistinctspecies。

Morethanthis，atleasttwentygenera，whicharecommontoNewGuineaandAru，donotextendintoCeram，indicatingwithaforcewhicheverynaturalistwillappreciate，thatthetwolattercountrieshavereceivedtheirfaunasinaradicallydifferentmanner。Again，atruekangarooisfoundinAru，andthesamespeciesoccursinMysol，whichisequallyPapuaninitsproductions，whileeitherthesame，oronecloselyalliedtoit，inhabitsNewGuinea；butnosuchanimalisfoundinCeram，whichisonlysixtymilesfromMysol。Anothersmallmarsupialanimal(Peramelesdoreyanus)iscommontoAruandNewGuinea。Theinsectsshowexactlythesameresults。ThebutterfliesofAruarealleitherNewGuineaspecies，orveryslightlymodifiedforms；

whereasthoseofCeramaremoredistinctthanarethebirdsofthetwocountries。

Itisnowgenerallyadmittedthatwemaysafelyreasononsuchfactsasthose，whichsupplyalinkinthedefectivegeologicalrecord。Theupwardanddownwardmovementswhichanycountryhasundergone，andthesuccessionofsuchmovements，canbedeterminedwithmuchaccuracy；butgeologyalonecantellusnothingoflandswhichhaveentirelydisappearedbeneaththeocean。Herephysicalgeographyandthedistributionofanimalsandplantsareofthegreatestservice。Byascertainingthedepthoftheseasseparatingonecountryfromanother，wecanformsomejudgmentofthechangeswhicharetakingplace。Ifthereareotherevidencesofsubsidence，ashallowseaimpliesaformerconnexionoftheadjacentlands；buti￡thisevidenceiswanting，orifthereisreasontosuspectarisingoftheland，thentheshallowseamaybetheresultofthatrising，andmayindicatethatthetwocountrieswillbejoinedatsomefuturetime，butnotthattheyhavepreviouslybeenso。Thenatureoftheanimalsandplantsinhabitingthesecountrieswill，however，almostalwaysenableustodeterminethisquestion。Mr。Darwinhasshownushowwemaydetermineinalmosteverycase，whetheranislandhaseverbeenconnectedwithacontinentorlargerland，bythepresenceorabsenceofterrestrialMammaliaandreptiles。Whatheterms"oceanicislands"possessneitherofthesegroupsofanimals，thoughtheymayhavealuxuriantvegetation，andafairnumberofbirds，insects，andlandshells；andwethereforeconcludethattheyhaveoriginatedinmid-ocean，andhaveneverbeenconnectedwiththenearestmassesofland。St。Helena，Madeira，andNewZealandareexamplesofoceanicislands。Theypossessallotherclassesoflife，becausethesehavemeansofdispersionoverwidespacesofsea，whichterrestrialmammalsandbirdshavenot，asisfullyexplainedinSirCharlesLyell\'s"PrinciplesofGeology，"andMr。Darwin\'s"OriginofSpecies。"Ontheotherhand，anislandmayneverhavebeenactuallyconnectedwiththeadjacentcontinentsorislands，andyetmaypossessrepresentativesofallclassesofanimals，becausemanyterrestrialmammalsandsomereptileshavethemeansofpassingovershortdistancesofsea。Butinthesecasesthenumberofspeciesthathavethusmigratedwillbeverysmall，andtherewillbegreatdeficiencieseveninbirdsandflyinginsects，whichweshouldimaginecouldeasilycrossover。TheislandofTimor(asIhavealreadyshowninChapterXIII)bearsthisrelationtoAustralia；forwhileitcontainsseveralbirdsandinsectsofAustralianforms，noAustralianmammalorreptileisfoundinit，andagreatnumberofthemostabundantandcharacteristicformsofAustralianbirdsandinsectsareentirelyabsent。ContrastthiswiththeBritishIslands，in，whichalargeproportionoftheplants，insects，reptiles，andMammaliaoftheadjacentpartsofthecontinentarefullyrepresented，whiletherearenoremarkabledeficienciesofextensivegroups，suchasalwaysoccurwhenthereisreasontobelievetherehasbeennosuchconnexion。ThecaseofSumatra，Borneo，andJava，andtheAsiaticcontinentisequallyclear；manylargeMammalia，terrestrialbirds，andreptilesbeingcommontoall，whilealargenumbermoreareofcloselyalliedforms。Now，geologyhastaughtusthatthisrepresentationbyalliedformsinthesamelocalityimplieslapseoftime，andwethereforeinferthatinGreatBritain，wherealmosteveryspeciesisabsolutelyidenticalwiththoseontheContinent，theseparationhasbeenveryrecent；

whileinSumatraandJava，whereaconsiderablenumberofthecontinentalspeciesarerepresentedbyalliedforms，theseparationwasmoreremote。

Fromtheseexampleswemayseehowimportantasupplementtogeologicalevidenceisthestudyofthegeographicaldistributionofanimalsandplants，indeterminingtheformerconditionoftheearth\'ssurface；andhowimpossibleitistounderstandtheformerwithouttakingthelatterintoaccount。TheproductionsoftheAruIslandsofferthestrangestevidence，thatatnoverydistantepochtheyformedapartofNewGuinea；andthepeculiarphysicalfeatureswhichIhavedescribed，indicatethattheymusthavestoodatverynearlythesamelevelthenastheydonow，havingbeenseparatedbythesubsidenceofthegreatplainwhichformerlyconnectedthemwithit。

Personswhohaveformedtheusualideasofthevegetationofthetropicswhopicturetothemselvestheabundanceandbrilliancyoftheflowers，andthemagnificentappearanceofhundredsofforesttreescoveredwithmassesofcolouredblossoms，willbesurprisedtohear，thatthoughvegetationinAruishighlyluxuriantandvaried，andwouldaffordabundanceoffineandcuriousplantstoadornourhothouses，yetbrightandshowyflowersare，asageneralrule，altogetherabsent，orsoveryscarceastoproducenoeffectwhateveronthegeneralscenery。Togiveparticulars：I

havevisitedfivedistinctlocalitiesintheislands，Ihavewandereddailyintheforests，andhavepassedalongupwardsofahundredmilesofcoastandriverduringaperiodofsixmonths，muchofitveryfineweather，andtilljustasIwasabouttoleave，Ineversawasingleplantofstrikingbrilliancyorbeauty，hardlyashrubequaltoahawthorn，oraclimberequaltoahoneysuckle！Itcannotbesaidthatthefloweringseasonhadnotarrived，forIsawmanyherbs，shrubs，andforesttreesinflower，butallhadblossomsofagreenorgreenish-whitetint，notsuperiortoourlime-trees。HereandthereontheriverbanksandcoastsareafewConvolvulaceae，notequaltoourgardenIpomaeas，andinthedeepestshadesoftheforestsomefinescarletandpurpleZingiberaceae，butsofewandscatteredastobenothingamidthemassofgreenandflowerlessvegetation。YetthenobleCycadaceaeandscrew-pines，thirtyorfortyfeethigh，theeleganttreeferns，theloftypalms，andthevarietyofbeautifulandcuriousplantswhicheverywheremeettheeye，attestthewarmthandmoistureofthetropics，andthefertilityofthesoil。

ItistruethatAruseemedtomeexceptionallypoorinflowers，butthisisonlyanexaggerationofageneraltropicalfeature；

formywholeexperienceintheequatorialregionsofthewestandtheeasthasconvincedme，thatinthemostluxuriantpartsofthetropics，flowersarelessabundant，ontheaveragelessshowy，andarefarlesseffectiveinaddingcolourtothelandscapethanintemperateclimates。IhaveneverseeninthetropicssuchbrilliantmassesofcolourasevenEnglandcanshowinherfurze-cladcommons，herheatherymountain-sides，hergladesofwildhyacinths，herfieldsofpoppies，hermeadowsofbuttercupsandorchises——carpetsofyellow，purple，azure-blue，andfierycrimson，whichthetropicscanrarelyexhibit。We，havesmallermassesofcolourinourhawthornandcrabtrees，ourhollyandmountain-ash，ourboom；foxgloves，primroses，andpurplevetches，whichclothewithgaycoloursthewholelengthandbreadthofourland，Thesebeautiesareallcommon。Theyarecharacteristicofthecountryandtheclimate；theyhavenottobesoughtfor，buttheygladdentheeyeateverystep。Intheregionsoftheequator，ontheotherhand，whetheritbeforestorsavannah，asombregreenclothesuniversalnature。Youmayjourneyforhours，andevenfordays，andmeetwithnothingtobreakthemonotony。Flowersareeverywhererare，andanythingatallstrikingisonlytobemetwithatverydistantintervals。

Theideathatnatureexhibitsgaycoloursinthetropics，andthatthegeneralaspectofnatureistheremorebrightandvariedinhuethanwithus，hasevenbeenmadethefoundationoftheoriesofart，andwehavebeenforbiddentousebrightcoloursinourgarments，andinthedecorationsofourdwellings，becauseitwassupposedthatweshouldbetherebyactinginoppositiontotheteachingsofnature。Theargumentitselfisaverypoorone，sinceitmightwithequaljusticebemaintained，thataswepossessfacultiesfortheappreciationofcolours，weshouldmakeupforthedeficienciesofnatureandusethegayesttintsinthoseregionswherethelandscapeismostmonotonous。Buttheassumptiononwhichtheargumentisfoundedistotallyfalse，sothatevenifthereasoningwerevalid，weneednotbeafraidofoutragingnature，bydecoratingourhousesandourpersonswithallthosegayhueswhicharesolavishlyspreadoverourfieldsandmountains，ourhedges，woods，andmeadows。

Itisveryeasytoseewhathasledtothiserroneousviewofthenatureoftropicalvegetation。Inourhothousesandatourflower-showswegathertogetherthefinestfloweringplantsfromthemostdistantregionsoftheearth，andexhibittheminaproximitytoeachotherwhichneveroccursinnature。Ahundreddistinctplants，allwithbright，orstrange，orgorgeousflowers，makeawonderfulshowwhenbroughttogether；butperhapsnotwooftheseplantscouldeverbeseentogetherinastateofnature，eachinhabitingadistantregionoradifferentstation。

Again，allmoderatelywarmextra-Europeancountriesaremixedupwiththetropicsingeneralestimation，andavagueideaisformedthatwhateverispreeminentlybeautifulmustcomefromthehottestpartsoftheearth。Butthefactisquitethecontrary。

Rhododendronsandazaleasareplantsoftemperateregions，thegrandestliliesarefromtemperateJapan，andalargeproportionofourmostshowyfloweringplantsarenativesoftheHimalayas，oftheCape，oftheUnitedStates，ofChili，orofChinaandJapan，alltemperateregions。True，thereareagreatnumberofgrandandgorgeousflowersinthetropics，buttheproportiontheybeartothemassofthevegetationisexceedinglysmall；sothatwhatappearsananomalyisneverthelessafact，andtheeffectofflowersonthegeneralaspectofnatureisfarlessintheequatorialthaninthetemperateregionsoftheearth。

CHAPTERXXXIV。

NEWGUINEA——DOREY，(MARCHTOJULY1858。)

AFTERmyreturnfromGilolotoTernate，inMarch1858，Imadearrangementsformylong-wished-forvoyagetothemainlandofNewGuinea，whereIanticipatedthatmycollectionswouldsurpassthosewhichIhadformedattheAruIslands。ThepovertyofTernateinarticlesusedbyEuropeanswasshown，bymysearchinginvainthroughallthestoresforsuchcommonthingsasflour，metalspoons，wide-mouthedphials，beeswax，apenknife，andastoneormetalpestleandmortar。Itookwithmefourservants：

myheadmanAli，andaTernateladnamedJumaat(Friday)，toshoot；Lahagi，asteadymiddle-agedman，tocuttimberandassistmeininsect-collecting；andLoisa，aJavanesecook。AsIknewI

shouldhavetobuildahouseatDorey，whereIwasgoing，Itookwithmeeightycadjans，orwaterproofmats，madeofpandanusleaves，tocoverovermybaggageonfirstlanding，andtohelptoroofmyhouseafterwards。

Westartedonthe25thofMarchintheschoonerHesterHelena，belongingtomyfriendMr。Duivenboden，andboundonatradingvoyagealongthenorthcoastofNewGuinea。Havingcalmsandlightairs，wewerethreedaysreachingGane，nearthesouthendofGilolo，wherewestayedtofill。upourwater-casksandbuyafewprovisions。Weobtainedfowls，eggs，sago，plantains，sweetpotatoes，yellowpumpkins，chilies，fish，anddrieddeer\'smeat；

andontheafternoonofthe29thproceededonourvoyagetoDoreyharbour。Wefoundit，however，bynomeanseasytogetalong；forsoneartotheequatorthemonsoonsentirelyfailoftheirregularity，andafterpassingthesouthernpointofGilolowehadcalms，lightpuffsofwind，andcontrarycurrents，whichkeptusforfivedaysinsightofthesameislandsbetweenitandPoppa。

AsquallthembroughtusontotheentranceofDampier\'sStraits，wherewewereagainbecalmed，andwerethreemoredayscreepingthroughthem。SeveralnativecanoesnowcameofftousfromWaigiouononeside，andBatantaontheother，bringingafewcommonshells，palm-leafmats，cocoa-nuts，andpumpkins。Theywereveryextravagantintheirdemands，beingaccustomedtoselltheirtriflestowhalersandChinaships，whosecrewswillpurchaseanythingattentimesitsvalue。Myonlypurchaseswereafloatbelongingtoaturtle-spear，carvedtoresembleabird，andaverywellmadepalm-leafbox，forwhicharticlesIgaveacopperringandayardofcalico。Thecanoeswereverynarrowandfurnishedwithanoutrigger，andinsomeofthemtherewasonlyoneman，whoseemedtothinknothingofcomingoutaloneeightortenmilesfromshore。ThepeoplewerePapuans，muchresemblingthenativesofAru。

WhenwehadgotoutoftheStraits，andwerefairlyinthegreatPacificOcean，wehadasteadywindforthefirsttimesinceleavingTernate，butunfortunatelyitwasdeadahead，andwehadtobeatagainstit，tackingonandoffthecoastofNewGuinea。I

lookedwithintenseinterestonthoseruggedmountains，retreatingridgebehindridgeintotheinterior，wherethefootofcivilizedmanhadnevertrod。Therewasthecountryofthecassowaryandthetree-kangaroo，andthosedarkforestsproducedthemostextraordinaryandthemostbeautifulofthefeatheredinhabitantsoftheearth——thevariedspeciesofBirdsofParadise。AfewdaysmoreandIhopedtobeinpursuitofthese，andofthescarcelylessbeautifulinsectswhichaccompanythem。

Wehadstill，however，forseveraldaysonlycalmsandlighthead-winds，anditwasnottillthel0thofAprilthatafinewesterlybreezesetin，followedbyasquallynight，whichkeptusofftheentranceofDoreyharbour。Thenextmorningweentered，andcametoanchoroffthesmallislandofMansinam，onwhichdwelttwoGermanmissionaries，Messrs。OttoandGeisler。

Theformerimmediatelycameonboardtogiveuswelcome，andinvitedustogoonshoreandbreakfastwithhim。Wewerethenintroducedtohiscompanionwhowassufferingdreadfullyfromanabscessontheheel，whichhadconfinedhimtothehouseforsixmonths——andtohiswife，ayoungGermanwoman，whohadbeenoutonlythreemonths。UnfortunatelyshecouldspeaknoMalayorEnglish，andhadtoguessatourcomplimentsonherexcellentbreakfastbythejusticewedidtoit。

Thesemissionarieswereworkingmen，andhadbeensentout，asbeingmoreusefulamongsavagesthanpersonsofahigherclass。

Theyhadbeenhereabouttwoyears，andMr。OttohadalreadylearnttospeakthePapuanlanguagewithfluency，andhadbeguntranslatingsomeportionsoftheBible。Thelanguage，however，issopoorthataconsiderablenumberofMalaywordshavetobeused；anditisveryquestionablewhetheritispossibletoconveyanyideaofsuchabook，toapeopleinsolowastateofcivilization。Theonlynominalconvertsyetmadeareafewofthewomen；andsomefewofthechildrenattendschool，andarebeingtaughttoread，buttheymakelittleprogress。ThereisonefeatureofthismissionwhichIbelievewillmateriallyinterferewithitsmoraleffect。ThemissionariesareallowedtotradetoekeouttheverysmallsalariesgrantedthemfromEurope，andofcourseareobligedtocarryoutthetradeprincipleofbuyingcheapandsellingdear，inordertomakeaprofit。Likeallsavagesthenativesarequitecarelessofthefuture，andwhentheirsmallricecropsaregatheredtheybringalargeportionofittothemissionaries，andsellitforknives，beads，axes，tobacco，oranyotherarticlestheymayrequire。Afewmonthslater，inthewetseason，whenfoodisscarce，theycometobuyitbackagain，andgiveinexchangetortoiseshell，tripang，wildnutmegs，orotherproduce。Ofcoursethericeissoldatamuchhigherratethanitwasbought，asisperfectlyfairandjust——

andtheoperationisonthewholethoroughlybeneficialtothenatives，whowouldotherwiseconsumeandwastetheirfoodwhenitwasabundant，andthenstarve——yetIcannotimaginethatthenativesseeitinthislight。Theymustlookuponthetradingmissionarieswithsomesuspicion，andcannotfeelsosureoftheirteachingsbeingdisinterested，aswouldbethecaseiftheyactedliketheJesuitsinSingapore。Thefirstthingtobedonebythemissionaryinattemptingtoimprovesavages，istoconvincethembyhisactionsthatliecomesamongthemfortheirbenefitonly，andnotforanyprivateendsofhisown。Todothishemustactinadifferentwayfromothermen，nottradingandtakingadvantageofthenecessitiesofthosewhowanttosell，butrathergivingtothosewhoareindistress。Itwouldhewellifheconformedhimselfinsomedegreetonativecustoms，andthenendeavouredtoshowhowthesecustomsmightbegraduallymodified，soastobemorehealthfulandmoreagreeable。Afewenergeticanddevotedmenactinginthiswaymightprobablyeffectadecidedmoralimprovementonthelowestsavagetribes，whereastradingmissionaries，teachingwhatJesussaid，butnotdoingasHedid，canscarcelybeexpectedtodomorethangivethemaverylittleofthesuperficialvarnishofreligion。

Doreyharbourisinafinebay，atoneextremityofwhichanelevatedpointjutsout，and，withtwoorthreesmallislands，formsashelteredanchorage。TheonlyvesselitcontainedwhenwearrivedwasaDutchbrig，ladenwithcoalsfortheuseofawar-

steamer，whichwasexpecteddaily，onanexploringexpeditionalongthecoastsofNewGuinea，forthepurposeoffixingonalocalityforacolony。Intheeveningwepaiditavisit，andlandedatthevillageofDorey，tolookoutforaplacewhereI

couldbuildmyhouse。Mr。Ottoalsomadearrangementsformewithsomeofthenativechiefs，tosendmentocutwood，rattans，andbamboothenextday。

ThevillagesofMansinamandDoreypresentedsomefeaturesquitenewtome。Thehousesallstandcompletelyinthewater，andarereachedbylongrudebridges。Theyareverylow，withtheroofshapedlikealargeboat，bottomupwards。Thepostswhichsupportthehouses，bridges，andplatformsaresmallcrookedsticks，placedwithoutanyregularity，andlookingasiftheyweretumblingdown。Thefloorsarealsoformedofsticks，equallyirregular，andsolooseandfarapartthatIfounditalmostimpossibletowallsonthem。Thewallsconsistofbitsofboards，oldboats，rottenmats，attaps，andpalm-leaves，stuckinanyhowhereandthere，andhavingaltogetherthemostwretchedanddilapidatedappearanceitispossibletoconceive。Undertheeavesofmanyofthehouseshanghumanskulls，thetrophiesoftheirbattleswiththesavageArfaksoftheinterior，whooftencometoattackthem。Alargeboat-shapedcouncil-houseissupportedonlargerposts，eachofwhichisgrosslycarvedtorepresentanakedmaleorfemalehumanfigure，andothercarvingsstillmorerevoltingareplacedupontheplatformbeforetheentrance。Theviewofanancientlake-dweller\'svillage，givenasthefrontispieceofSirCharlesLyell\'s"AntiquityofMan，"ischieflyfoundedonasketchofthisveryvillageofDorey；buttheextremeregularityofthestructurestheredepictedhasnoplaceintheoriginal，anymorethanitprobablyhadintheactuallake-villages。

ThepeoplewhoinhabitthesemiserablehutsareverysimilartotheKeandAruislanders，andmanyofthemareveryhandsome，beingtallandwell-made，withwell-cutfeaturesandlargeaquilinenoses。Theircolourisadeepbrown，oftenapproachingcloselytoblack，andthefinemop-likeheadsoffrizzlyhairappeartobemorecommonthanelsewhere，andareconsideredagreatornament，alongsix-prongedbambooforkbeingkeptstuckinthemtoservethepurposeofacomb；andthisisassiduouslyusedatidlemomentstokeepthedenselygrowingmassfrombecomingmattedandtangled。Themajorityhaveshortwoollyhair，whichdoesnotseemcapableofanequallyluxuriantdevelopment。

Agrowthofhairsomewhatsimilartothis，andalmostasabundant，isfoundamongthehalf-breedsbetweentheIndianandNegroinSouthAmerica。CanthisbeanindicationthatthePapuansareamixedrace？

ForthefirstthreedaysafterourarrivalIwasfullyoccupiedfrommorningtonightbuildingahouse，withtheassistanceofadozenPapuansandmyownmen。Itwasimmensetroubletogetourlabourerstowork，asscarcelyoneofthemcouldspeakawordofMalay；anditwasonlybythemostenergeticgesticulations，andgoingthrougharegularpantomimeofwhatwaswanted，thatwecouldgetthemtodoanything。Ifwemadethemunderstandthatafewmorepoleswererequired，whichtwocouldhaveeasilycut，sixoreightwouldinsistupongoingtogether，althoughweneededtheirassistanceinotherthings。Onemorningtenofthemcametowork，bringingonlyonechopperbetweenthem，althoughtheyknewIhadnonereadyforuse。

Ichoseaplaceabouttwohundredyardsfromthebeach，onanelevatedground，bythesideofthechiefpathfromthevillageofDoreytotheprovision-groundsandtheforest。Withintwentyyardswasalittlestream；whichfurnisheduswithexcellentwaterandaniceplacetobathe。Therewasonlylowunderwoodtoclearaway，whilesomefineforesttreesstoodatashortdistance，andwecutdownthewoodforabouttwentyyardsroundtogiveuslightandair。Thehouse，abouttwentyfeetbyfifteen；wasbuiltentirelyofwood，withabamboofloor，asingledoorofthatch，andalargewindow，lookingoverthesea，atwhichIfixedmytable，andclosebesideitmybed，withinalittlepartition。Iboughtanumberofverylargepalm-leafmatsofthenatives，whichmadeexcellentwalls；whilethematsIhadbroughtmyselfwereusedontheroof，andwerecoveredoverwithattapsassoonaswecouldgetthemmade。Outside，andratherbehind，wasalittlehut，usedforcooking，andabench，roofedover，wheremymencouldsittoskinbirdsandanimals。Whenallwasfinished，Ihadmygoodsandstoresbroughtup，arrangedthemconvenientlyinside，andthenpaidmyPapuanswithknivesandchoppers，andsentthemaway。Thenextdayourschoonerleftforthemoreeasternislands，andIfoundmyselffairlyestablishedastheonlyEuropeaninhabitantofthevastislandofNewGuinea。

Aswehadsomedoubtaboutthenatives，wesleptatfirstwithloadedgunsbesideusandawatchset；butafterafewdays，findingthepeoplefriendly，andfeelingsurethattheywouldnotventuretoattackfivewell-armedmen，wetooknofurtherprecautions。Wehadstilladayortwo\'sworkinfinishingupthehouse，stoppingleaks，puttingupourhangingshelvesfordryingspecimensinsideandout，andmakingthepathdowntothewater，andacleardryspaceinfrontofthehorse。

Onthe17th，thesteamernothavingarrived，thecoal-shipleft，havinglainhereamonth，accordingtohercontract；andonthesamedaymyhunterswentouttoshootforthefirsttime，andbroughthomeamagnificentcrownpigeonandafewcommonbirds。

Thenextdaytheyweremoresuccessful，andIwasdelightedtoseethemreturnwithaBirdofParadiseinfullplumage，apairofthefinePapuanlories(Loriusdomicella)，fourotherloriesandparroquets，agrackle(Graculadumonti)，aking-hunter(Dacelogaudichaudi)，aracquet-tailedkingfisher(Tanysipteragalatea)，andtwoorthreeotherbirdsoflessbeauty。

IwentmyselftovisitthenativevillageonthehillbehindDorey，andtookwithmeasmallpresentofcloth，knives，andbeads，tosecurethegood-willofthechief，andgethimtosendsomementocatchorshootbirdsforme。Thehouseswerescatteredaboutamongrudelycultivatedclearings。TwowhichI

visitedconsistedofacentralpassage，oneachsideofwhichopenedshortpassages，admittingtotworooms，eachofwhichwasahouseaccommodatingaseparatefamily。Theywereelevatedatleastfifteenfeetabovetheground，onacompleteforestofpoles，andweresorudeanddilapidatedthatsomeofthesmallpassageshadopeningsinthefloorofloosesticks，throughwhichachildmightfall。TheinhabitantsseemedratheruglierthanthoseatDoreyvillage。Theyare，nodoubt，thetrueindigenesofthispartofNewGuinea，livingintheinterior，andsubsistingbycultivationandhunting。TheDoreymen，ontheotherhand，areshore-dwellers，fishersandtradersinasmallway，andhavethusthecharacterofacolonywhohavemigratedfromanotherdistrict。Thesehillmenor"Arfaks"differedmuchinphysicalfeatures。Theyweregenerallyblack，butsomewerebrownlikeMalays。Theirhair，thoughalwaysmoreorlessfrizzly，wassometimesshortandmatted，insteadofbeinglong，loose，andwoolly；andthisseemedtobeaconstitutionaldifference，nottheeffectofcareandcultivation。Nearlyhalfofthemwereafflictedwiththescurfyskin-disease。Theoldchiefseemedmuchpleasedwithhispresent，andpromised(throughaninterpreterI

broughtwithme)toprotectmymenwhentheycamethereshooting，andalsotoprocuremesomebirdsandanimals。Whileconversing，theysmokedtobaccooftheirowngrowing，inpipescutfromasinglepieceofwoodwithalonguprighthandle。

WehadarrivedatDoreyabouttheendofthewetseason，whenthewholecountrywassoakedwithmoistureThenativepathsweresoneglectedastobeoftenmeretunnelsclosedoverwithvegetation，andinsuchplacestherewasalwaysafearfulaccumulationofmud。TothenakedPapuanthisisnoobstruction。

Hewadesthroughit，andthenextwatercoursemakeshimcleanagain；buttomyself，wearingbootsandtrousers，itwasamostdisagreeablethingtohavetogouptomykneesinamud-holeeverymorning。ThemanIbroughtwithmetocutwoodfellillsoonafterwearrived，orIwouldhavesethimtoclearfreshpathsintheworstplaces。Forthefirsttendaysitgenerallyrainedeveryafternoonandallnightrbutbygoingouteveryhouroffineweather，Imanagedtogetontolerablywithmycollectionsofbirdsandinsects，findingmostofthosecollectedbyLessonduringhisvisitintheCoquille，aswellasmanynewones。Itappears，however，thatDoreyisnottheplaceforBirdsofParadise，noneofthenativesbeingaccustomedtopreservethem。ThosesoldhereareallbroughtfromAmberbaki，aboutahundredmileswest，wheretheDoreyansgototrade。

Theislandsinthebay，withthelowlandsnearthecoast，seemtohavebeenformedbyrecentlyraisedcoralreef\'s，andaremuchstrewnwithmassesofcoralbutlittlealtered。Theridgebehindmyhouse，whichrunsouttothepoint，isalsoentirelycoralrock，althoughtherearesignsofastratifiedfoundationintheravines，andtherockitselfismorecompactandcrystalline。Itistherefore，probablyolder，amorerecentelevationhavingexposedthelowgroundsandislands。OntheothersideofthebayrisethegreatmassoftheArfakmountains，saidbytheFrenchnavigatorstobeabouttenthousandfeethigh，andinhabitedbysavagetribes。TheseareheldingreatdreadbytheDoreypeople，whohaveoftenbeenattackedandplunderedbythem，andhavesomeoftheirskullshangingoutsidetheirhouses。IfIwasseemgoingintotheforestanywhereinthedirectionofthemountains，thelittleboysofthevillagewouldshoutafterme，"Arfaki！

Arfaki？"justastheydidafterLessonnearlyfortyyearsbefore。

Onthe15thofMaytheDutchwar-steamerEtnaarrived；but，asthecoalshadgone，itwasobligedtostaytilltheycameback。

Thecaptainknewwhenthecoalshipwastoarrive，andhowlongitwascharteredtostayatDorey，andcouldhavebeenbackintime，butsupposeditwouldwaitforhim，andsodidnothurryhimself。

Thesteamerlayatanchorjustoppositemyhouse，andIhadtheadvantageofhearingthehalf-hourlybellsstruck，whichwasverypleasantafterthemonotonoussilenceoftheforest。Thecaptain，doctor，engineer，andsomeotheroftheofficerspaidmevisits；

theservantscametothebrooktowashclothes，andthesonofthePrinceofTidore，withoneortwocompanions，tobathe；

otherwiseIsawlittleofthem，andwasnotdisturbedbyvisitorssomuchasIhadexpectedtobe。Aboutthistimetheweathersetinprettyfine，butneitherbirdsnorinsectsbecamemuchmoreabundant，andnewbirds-wereveryscarce。NoneoftheBirdsofParadiseexceptthecommononewereevermetwith，andwewerestillsearchinginvainforseveralofthefinebirdswhichLessonhadobtainedhere。Insectsweretolerablyabundant，butwerenotontheaveragesofineasthoseofAmboyna，andI

reluctantlycametotheconclusionthatDoreywasnotagoodcollectinglocality。Butterflieswereveryscarce，aridweremostlythesameasthosewhichIhadobtainedatAru。

Amongtheinsectsofotherorders，themostcuriousandnovelwereagroupofhornedflies，ofwhichIobtainedfourdistinctspecies，settlingonfallentreesanddecayingtrunks。Theseremarkableinsects，whichhavebeendescribedbyMr。W。W。

Saundersasanewgenus，underthenameofElaphomiaordeer-

flies，areabouthalfaninchlong，slender-bodied，andwithverylonglegs，whichtheydrawtogethersoastoelevatetheirbodieshighabovethesurfacetheyarestandingupon。Thefrontpairoflegsaremuchshorter，andtheseareoftenstretcheddirectlyforwards，soastoresembleantenna。Thehornsspringfrombeneaththeeye，andseemtobeaprolongationofthelowerpartoftheorbit。Inthelargestandmostsingularspecies，namedElaphomiacervicornisorthestag-horneddeer-fly，thesehornsarenearlyaslongasthebody，havingtwobranches，withtwosmallsnagsneartheirbifurcation，soastoresemblethehornsofastag。Theyareblack，withthetipspale，whilethebodyandlegsareyellowishbrown，andtheeyes(whenalive)violetandgreen。Thenextspecies(Elaphomiawallacei)isofadarkbrowncolour，bandedandspottedwithyellow。Thehornsareaboutone-

thirdthelengthoftheinsect，broad，flat，andofanelongatedtriangularfoam。Theyareofabeautifulpinkcolour，edgedwithblack，andwithapalecentralstripe。Thefrontpartoftheheadisalsopink，andtheeyesvioletpink，withagreenstripeacrossthem，givingtheinsectaveryelegantandsingularappearance。Thethirdspecies(Elaphomiaalcicornis，theelk-

horneddeer-fly)isalittlesmallerthanthetwoalreadydescribed，butresemblingincolourElaphomiawallacei。Thehornsareveryremarkable，beingsuddenlydilatedintoaflatplate，stronglytoothedroundtheoutermargin，andstrikinglyresemblingthehornsoftheelk，afterwhichithasbeennamed。

Theyareofayellowishcolour，marginedwithbrown，andtippedwithblackonthethreeupperteeth。Thefourthspecies(Elaphomiabrevicornis，theshort-horneddeer-fly)differsconsiderablyfromtherest。Itisstouterinform，ofanearlyblackcolour，withayellowringatthebaseoftheabdomen；thewingshaveduskystripes，andtheheadiscompressedanddilatedlaterally，withverysmallflathorns；whichareblackwithapalecentre，andlookexactlyliketherudimentofthehornsofthetwoprecedingspecies。Noneofthefemaleshaveanytraceofthehorns，aneMr。Saundersplacesinthesamegenusaspecieswhichhasnohornsineithersex(Elaphomiapolita)。Itisofashiningblackcolour，andresemblesElaphomiacervicornisinform，size，andgeneralappearance。Thefiguresabovegivenrepresenttheseinsectsoftheirnaturalsizeandincharacteristicattitudes。

Thenativesseldombroughtmeanything。Theyarepoorcreatures，and，rarelyshootabird，pig，orkangaroo，oreventhesluggishopossum-likeCuscus。Thetree-kangaroosarefoundhere，butmustbeveryscarce，asmyhunters，althoughoutdailyintheforest，neveroncesawthem。Cockatoos，lories，andparroquetswerereallytheonlycommonbirds。Evenpigeonswerescarce，andinlittlevariety，althoughweoccasionallygotthefinecrownpigeon，whichwasalwayswelcomeasanadditiontoourscantilyfurnishedlarder。

JustbeforethesteamerarrivedIhadwoundedmyanklebyclamberingamongthetrunksandbranchesoffallentrees(whichformedmybesthuntinggroundsforinsects)，and，asusualwithfootwoundsinthisclimate，itturnedintoanobstinateulcer，keepingmeinthehouseforseveraldays。Whenithealedupitwasfollowedbyaninternalinflammationofthefoot，whichbythedoctor\'sadviceIpoulticedincessantlyforfourorfivedays，bringingoutasevereinflamedswellingonthetendonabovetheheel。Thishadtobeleeched，andlanced，anddoctoredwithointmentsandpoulticesforseveralweeks，tillIwasalmostdriventodespair，——fortheweatherwasatlengthfine，andIwastantalizedbyseeinggrandbutterfliesflyingpastmydoor，andthinkingofthetwentyorthirtynewspeciesofinsectsthatI

oughttobegettingeveryday。Andthis，too，inNewGuinea——acountrywhichImightnevervisitagain，——acountrywhichnonaturalisthadeverresidedinbefore，——acountrywhichcontainedmorestrangeandnewandbeautifulnaturalobjectsthananyotherpartoftheglobe。Thenaturalistwillbeabletoappreciatemyfeelings，sittingfrommorningtonightinmylittlehut，unabletomovewithoutacrutch，andmyonlysolacethebirdsmyhuntersbroughtineveryafternoon，andthefewinsectscaughtbymyTernateman，Lahagi，whonowwentoutdailyinmyplace，butwhoofcoursedidnotgetafourthpartofwhatIshouldhaveobtained。Toaddtomytroublesallmymenweremoreorlessill，somewithfever，otherswithdysenteryorague；atonetimetherewerethreeofthembesidesmyselfallhelpless，thecoonalonebeingwell，andhavingenoughtodotowaituponus。ThePrinceofTidoreandtheResidentofPandawerebothonboardthesteamer，andwereseekingBirdsofParadise，sendingmenroundineverydirection，sothattherewasnochanceofmygettingevennativeskinsoftherarerkinds；andanybirds，insects，oranimalstheDoreypeoplehadtosellweretakenonboardthesteamer，wherepurchaserswerefoundforeverything，andwherealargervarietyofarticleswereofferedinexchangethanIhadtoshow。