第12章

Weareabletodividethissmallarchipelagointotwowellmarkedgroups——thatofCeram，includingalsoBouru。Amboyna，Banda，andKe；andthatofGilolo，includingMorty，Batchian，Obi，Ternate，andothersmallislands。Thesedivisionshaveeachaconsiderablenumberofpeculiarspecies，nolessthanfifty-fivebeingfoundintheCeramgrouponly；andbesidesthis，mostoftheseparateislandshavesomespeciespeculiartothemselves。ThusMortyislandhasapeculiarkingfisher，honeysucker，andstarling；

Ternatehasaground-thrush(Pitta)andaflycatcher；Bandahasapigeon，ashrike，andaPitta；Kehastwoflycatchers，aZosterops，ashrike，aking-crowandacuckoo；andtheremoteTimor-Laut，whichshouldprobablycomeintotheMoluccangroup，hasacockatooandloryasitsonlyknownbirds，andbothareofpeculiarspecies。

TheMoluccasareespeciallyrichintheparrottribe，nolessthantwenty-twospecies，belongingtotengenera，inhabitingthem。Amongtheseisthelargered-crestedcockatoo，socommonlyseenaliveinEurope，twohandsomeredparrotsofthegenusEclectus，andfiveofthebeautifulcrimsonlories，whicharealmostexclusivelyconfinedtotheseislandsandtheNewGuineagroup。Thepigeonsarehardlylessabundantorbeautiful，twenty-

onespeciesbeingknown，includingtwelveofthebeautifulgreenfruitpigeons，thesmallerkindsofwhichareornamentedwiththemostbrilliantpatchesofcolourontheheadandtheunder-

surface。Nexttothesecomethekingfishers，includingsixteenspecies，almostallofwhicharebeautiful，endmanyareamongthemostbrilliantly-colouredbirdsthatexist。

Oneofthemostcuriousgroupsofbirds，theMegapodii，ormound-

makers，isveryabundantintheMoluccas。Theyaregallinaceousbirds，aboutthesizeofasmallfowl，andgenerallyofadarkashyorsootycolour，andtheyhaveremarkablylargeandstrongfeetandlongclaws。Theyarealliedtothe"Maleo"ofCelebes，ofwhichanaccounthasalreadybeengiven，buttheydifferinhabits，mostofthesebirdsfrequentingthescrubbyjunglesalongthesea-shore，wherethesoilissandy，andthereisaconsiderablequantityofdebris，consistingofsticks，shells，seaweed，leaves，&c。OfthisrubbishtheMegapodiusformsimmensemounds，oftensixoreightfeethighandtwentyorthirtyfeetindiameter，whichtheyareenabledtodowithcomparativeease，bymeansoftheirlargefeet，withwhichtheycangraspandthrowbackwardsaquantityofmaterial。Inthecentreofthismound，atadepthoftwoorthreefeet，theeggsaredeposited，andarehatchedbythegentleheatproducedbythefermentationofthevegetablematterofthemound。WhenIfirstsawthesemoundsintheislandofLombock，Icouldhardlybelievethattheyweremadebysuchsmallbirds，butIafterwardsmetwiththemfrequently，andhaveonceortwicecomeuponthebirdsengagedinmakingthem。Theyrunafewstepsbackwards，graspingaquantityofloosematerialinonefoot，andthrowitalongwaybehindthem。

Whenonceproperlyburiedtheeggsseemtobenomorecaredfor，theyoungbirdsworkingtheirwayupthroughtheheapofrubbish，andrunningoffatonceintotheforest。Theycomeoutoftheeggcoveredwiththickdownyfeathers，andhavenotail，althoughthewingsarefulldeveloped。

Iwassofortunateastodiscoveranewspecies(Megapodiuswallacei)，whichinhibitsGilolo，Ternate，andBouru。Itisthehandsomestbirdofthegenus，beingrichlybandedwithreddishbrownonthebackandwings；anditdiffersfromtheotherspeciesinitshabits。Itfrequentstheforestsoftheinterior，andcomesdowntothesea-beachtodeposititseggs，butinsteadofmakingamound，orscratchingaholetoreceivethem，itburrowsintothesandtothedepthofaboutthreefeetobliquelydownwards，anddepositsitseggsatthebottom。Itthenlooselycoversupthemouthofthehole，andissaidbythenativestoobliterateanddisguiseitsownfootmarksleadingtoandfromthehole，bymakingmanyothertracksandscratchesintheneighbourhood。Itlaysitseggsonlyatnight，andatBouruabirdwascaughtearlyonemorningasitwascomingoutofitshole，inwhichseveraleggswerefound。Allthesebirdsseemtobesemi-nocturnal，fortheirloudwailingcriesmaybeconstantlyheardlateintothenightandlongbeforedaybreakinthemorning。Theeggsareallofarustyredcolour，andverylargeforthesizeofthebird，beinggenerallythreeorthreeandaquarterincheslong，bytwoortwoandaquarterwide。Theyareverygoodeating，andaremuchsoughtafterbythenatives。

AnotherlargeandextraordinarybirdistheCassowary，whichinhabitstheislandofCeramonly。Itisastoutandstrongbird，standingfiveorsixfeethigh，andcoveredwithlongcoarseblackhair-likefeathers。Theheadisornamentedwithalargehornycalqueorhelmet，andthebareskinoftheneckisconspicuouswithbrightblueandredcolours。Thewingsarequiteabsent，andarereplacedbyagroupofhornyblackspineslikebluntporcupinequills。

ThesebirdswanderaboutthevastmountainousforeststhatcovertheislandofCeram，feedingchieflyonfallenfruits，andoninsectsorcrustacea。Thefemalelaysfromthreetofivelargeandbeautifullyshagreenedgreeneggsuponabedofleaves，themaleandfemalesittinguponthemalternatelyforaboutamonth。

Thisbirdisthehelmetedcassowary(Casuariusgaleatus)ofnaturalists，andwasforalongtimetheonlyspeciesknown。

OthershavesincebeendiscoveredinNewGuinea，NewBritain，andNorthAustralia。

ItwasintheMoluccasthatIfirstdiscoveredundoubtedcasesof"mimicry"amongbirds，andthesearesocuriousthatImustbrieflydescribethem。Itwillbeaswell，however，firsttoexplainwhatismeantbymimicryinnaturalhistory。Atpage205

ofthefirstvolumeofthiswork，Ihavedescribedabutterflywhich，whenatrest，socloselyresemblesadeadleaf，thatittherebyescapetheattacksofitsenemies。Thisistermeda"protectiveresemblance。"Ifhoweverthebutterfly，beingitselfsavourymorseltobirds，hadcloselyresembledanotherbutterflywhichwasdisagreeabletobirds，andthereforenevereatenbythem，itwouldbeaswellprotectedasifitresembledaleaf；

andthisiswhathasbeenhappilytermed"mimicry"byMr。Bates，whofirstdiscoveredtheobjectofthesecuriousexternalimitationsofoneinsectbyanotherbelongingtoadistinctgenusorfamily，andsometimeseventoadistinctorder。Theclear-

wingedmothwhichresemblewaspsandhornetsarethebestexamplesof"mimicry"inourowncountry。

Foralongtimealltheknowncasesofexactresemblanceofonecreaturetoquiteadifferentonewereconfinedtoinsects，anditwasthereforewithgreatpleasurethatIdiscoveredintheislandofBourutwobirdswhichIconstantlymistookforeachother，andwhichyetbelongedtotwodistinctandsomewhatdistantfamilies。OneoftheseisahoneysuckernamedTropidorhynchusbouruensis，andtheotherakindoforiole，whichhasbeencalledMimetabouruensis。Theorioleresemblesthehoneysuckerinthefollowingparticulars：theupperandundersurfacesofthetwobirdsareexactlyofthesametintsofdarkandlightbrown；theTropidorhynchushasalargebareblackpatchroundtheeyes；thisiscopiedintheMimetabyapatchofblackfeathers。ThetopoftheheadoftheTropidorhynchushasascalyappearancefromthenarrowscale-formedfeathers，whichareimitatedbythebroaderfeathersoftheMimetahavingaduskylinedowneach。TheTropidorhynchushasapaleruffformedofcuriousrecurvedfeathersonthenape(whichhasgiventhewholegenusthenameofFriarbirds)；thisisrepresentedintheMimetabyapalebandinthesameposition。Lastly，thebilloftheTropidorhynchusisraisedintoaprotuberantkeelatthebase，andtheMimetahasthesamecharacter，althoughitisnotacommononeinthegenus。Theresultis，thatonasuperficialexaminationthebirdsareidentical，althoughtheyleaveimportantstructuraldifferences，andcannotbeplacedneareachotherinanynaturalarrangement。

IntheadjacentislandofCeramwefindverydistinctspeciesofboththesegenera，and，strangetosay，theseresembleeachotherquiteascloselyasdothoseofBouruTheTropidorhynchussubcornutusisofanearthybrowncolour，washedwithochreishyellow，withbareorbits，dusky：cheeks，andtheusualrecurvednape-ruff：TheMimetaforsteniwhichaccompaniesit，isabsolutelyidenticalinthetintsofeverypartofthebody，andthedetailsarecopiedjustasminutelyasintheformerspecies。

Wehavetwokindsofevidencetotelluswhichbirdinthiscaseisthemodel，andwhichthecopy。Thehoneysuckersarecolouredinamannerwhichisverygeneralinthewholefamilytowhichtheybelong，whiletheoriolesseemtohavedepartedfromthegayyellowtintssocommonamongtheirallies。Weshouldthereforeconcludethatitisthelatterwhomimictheformer。Ifso，however，theymustderivesomeadvantagefromtheimitation，andastheyarecertainlyweakbirds，withsmallfeetandclaws，theymayrequireit。NowtheTropidorhynchiareverystrongandactivebirds，havingpowerfulgraspingclaws，andlong，curved，sharpbeaks。Theyassembletogetheringroupsandsmallflocks，andtheyhawaveryloudbawlingnotewhichcanbeheardatagreatdistance，andservestocollectanumbertogetherintimeofdanger。Theyareveryplentifulandverypugnacious，frequentlydrivingawaycrowsandevenhawks，whichperchonatreewhereafewofthemareassembled。Itisveryprobable，therefore，thatthesmallerbirdsofpreyhavelearnttorespectthesebirdsandleavethemalone，anditmaythusbeagreatadvantagefortheweakerandlesscourageousMimetastobemistakenforthem。Thisbeingcase，thelawsofVariationandSurvivaloftheFittest，willsufficetoexplainhowtheresemblancehasbeenbroughtabout，withoutsupposinganyvoluntaryactiononthepartofthebirdsthemselves；andthosewhohavereadMr。Darwin\'s"OriginofSpecies"willhavenodifficultyincomprehendingthewholeprocess。

TheinsectsoftheMoluccasarepre-eminentlybeautiful，evenwhencomparedwiththevariedandbeautifulproductionsofotherpartsoftheArchipelago。Thegrandbird-wingedbutterflies(Ornithoptera)herereachtheirmaximumofsizeandbeauty，andmanyofthePapilios，PieridaeDanaidae，andNymphalidaeareequallypreeminent。Thereis，perhaps，noislandintheworldsosmallasAmboynawheresomanygrandinsectsaretobefound。

HerearethreeoftheveryfinestOrnithopterae——priamus，helena，andremiss；threeofthehandsomestandlargestPapilios——

ulysses，deiphobus，andgambrisius；oneofthehandsomestPieridae，Iphiasleucippe；thelargestoftheDanaidae，Hestiaidea；andtwounusuallylargeandhandsomeNymphalidae——Diademapandarus，andCharaxeseuryalus。AmongitsbeetlesaretheextraordinaryEuchiruslongimanus，whoseenormouslegsspreadoveraspaceofeightinches，andanunusualnumberoflargeandhandsomeLongicorns，Anthribidae，andBuprestidae。

ThebeetlesfiguredontheplateascharacteristicoftheMoluccasare：1。AsmallspecimenoftheEuchiruslongimanus，orLong-armedChafer，whichhasbeenalreadymentionedintheaccountofmyresidenceatAmboyna(ChapterXX。)。Thefemalehastheforelegsofmoderatelength。2。Afineweevil，(anundescribedspeciesofEupholus，)ofrichblueandemeraldgreencolours，bandedwithblack。ItisanativeofCeramandGoram，andisfoundonfoliage。3。AfemaleofXenocerussemiluctuosus，oneoftheAnthribidaeofdelicatesilkywhiteandblackcolours。

ItisabundantonfallentrunksandstumpsinCeramandAmboyna。

4。AnundescribedspeciesofXenocerus；amale，withverylongandcuriousantenna，andelegantblackandwhitemarkings。ItisfoundonfallentrunksinBatchian。5。AnundescribedspeciesofArachnobas，acuriousgenusofweevilspeculiartotheMoluccasandNewGuinea，andremarkablefortheirlonglegs，andtheirhabitofoftensittingonleaves，andturningrapidlyroundtheedgetotheunder-surfacewhendisturbed。ItwasfoundinGilolo。

Alltheseinsectsarerepresentedofthenaturalsize。

Likethebirds，theinsectsoftheMoluccasshowadecidedaffinitywiththoseofNewGuinearatherthanwiththeproductionsofthegreatwesternislandsoftheArchipelago，butthedifferenceinformandstructurebetweentheproductionsoftheeastandwestisnotnearlysomarkedhereasinbirds。Thisisprobablyduetothemoreimmediatedependenceofinsectsonclimateandvegetation，andthegreaterfacilitiesfortheirdistributioninthevariedstagesofegg，pupa，andperfectinsect。Thishasledtoageneraluniformityintheinsect-lifeofthewholeArchipelago，inaccordancewiththegeneraluniformityofitsclimateandvegetation；whileontheotherhandthegreatsusceptibilityoftheinsectorganizationtotheactionofexternalconditionshasledtoinfinitedetailedmodificationsofformandcolour，whichhaveinmanycasesgivenaconsiderablediversitytotheproductionsofadjacentislands。

Owingtothegreatpreponderanceamongthebirds，ofparrots，pigeons，kingfishers，andsunbirds，almostallofgayordelicatecolours，andmanyadornedwiththemostgorgeousplumage，andtothenumbersofverylargeandshowybutterflieswhicharealmosteverywheretobemetwith，theforestsoftheMoluccasoffertothenaturalistaverystrikingexampleoftheluxurianceandbeautyofanimallifeinthetropics。YetthealmostentireabsenceofMammalia，andofsuchwide-spreadgroupsofbirdsaswoodpeckers，thrushes，jays，tits，andpheasants，mustconvincehimthatheisinapartoftheworldwhichhas，inrealitybutlittleincommonwiththegreatAsiaticcontinent，althoughanunbrokenchainofislandsseemstolinkthemtoit。

CHAPTERXXVIII。

MACASSARTOTHEARUISLANDSINANATIVEPRAU。

(DECEMBER，1856。)

ITwasthebeginningofDecember，andtherainyseasonatMacassarhadjustsetin。Fornearlythreemonthshadbeheldthesunrisedailyabovethepalm-groves，mounttothezenith，anddescendlikeaglobeoffireintotheocean，unobscuredforasinglemomentofhiscourse。Nowdarkleadencloudshadgatheredoverthewholeheavens，andseemedtohaverenderedhimpermanentlyinvisible。Thestrongeastwinds，warmanddryanddust-laden，whichhadhithertoblownascertainlyasthesunhadrisen，werenowreplacedbyvariablegustybreezesandheavyrains，oftencontinuousforthreedaysandnightstogether；andtheparchedandfissuredricestubbleswhichduringthedryweatherhadextendedineverydirectionformilesaroundthetown，werealreadysofloodedastobeonlypassablebyboats，orbymeansofalabyrinthofpathsonthetopofthenarrowbankswhichdividedtheseparateproperties。

FivemonthsofthiskindofweathermightbeexpectedinSouthernCelebes，andIthereforedeterminedtoseeksomemorefavourableclimateforcollectinginduringthatperiod，andtoreturninthenextdryseasontocompletemyexplorationofthedistrict。

FortunatelyformeIwasinoneofthetreatemporiumsofthenativetradeofthearchipelago。RattansfromBorneo，sandal-woodandbees\'-wasfromFloresandTimor，tripangfromtheGulfofCarpentaria，cajputi-oilfromBouru，wildnutmegsandmussoi-barkfromNewGuinea，arealltobefoundinthestoresoftheChineseandBugismerchantsofMacassar，alongwiththericeandcoffeewhicharethechiefproductsofthesurroundingcountry。MoreimportantthanallthesehoweveristhetradetoAru，agroupofislandssituatedonthesouth-westcoastofNewGuinea，andofwhichalmostthewholeproducecomestoMacassarinnativevessels。TheseislandsarequiteoutofthetrackofallEuropeantrade，andareinhabitedonlybyblackmop-headedsavages，whoyetcontributetotheluxurioustastesofthemostcivilizedraces。Pearls，mother-of-pearl，andtortoiseshellfindtheirwaytoEurope，whileediblebirds\'nestsand"tripang"orsea-slugareobtainedbyshiploadsforthegastronomicenjoymentoftheChinese。

Thetradetotheseislandshasexistedfromveryearlytimes，anditisfromthemthatBirdsofParadise，ofthetwokindsknowntoLinnaeuswerefirstbroughtThenativevesselscanonlymakethevoyageonceayear，owingtothemonsoons。TheyleaveMacassarinDecemberorJanuaryatthebeginningofthewestmonsoon，andreturninJulyorAugustwiththefullstrengthoftheeastmonsoon。EvenbytheMacassarpeoplethemselves，thevoyagetotheAruIslandsislookeduponasaratherwildandromanticexpedition，fallofnovelsightsandstrangeadventures。Hewhohasmadeitislookeduptoasanauthority，anditremainswithmanytheunachievedambitionoftheirlives。Imyselfhadhopedratherthanexpectedevertoreachthis"UltimaThule"oftheEast：andwhenIfoundthatIreallycoulddosonow，hadIbutcouragetotrustmyselfforathousandmiles\'voyageinaBugisprau，andforsixorsevenmonthsamonglawlesstradersandferocioussavages，IfeltsomewhatasIdidwhen，aschoolboy，I

wasforthefirsttimeallowedtotraveloutsidethestage-coach，tovisitthatsceneofallthatisstrangeandnewandwonderfultoyoungimaginations-London！

BythehelpofsomekindfriendsIwasintroducedtotheownerofoneofthelargeprauswhichwastosailinafewdays。HewasaJavanesehalf-caste，intelligent，mild，andgentlemanlyinhismanners，andhadayoungandprettyDutchwife，whomhewasgoingtoleavebehindduringhisabsence。Whenwetalkedaboutpassagemoneyhewouldfixnosum，butinsistedonleavingitentirelytometopayonmyreturnexactlywhatIliked。"Andthen，"saidhe，"whetheryougivemeonedollarorahundred，Ishallhesatisfied，andshallasknomore。"

Theremainderofmystaywasfullyoccupiedinlayinginstores，engagingservants，andmakingeveryotherpreparationforanabsenceofsevenmonthsfromeventheoutskirtsofcivilization。

OnthemorningofDecember13th，whenwewentonboardatdaybreak，itwasraininghard。Wesetsailanditcameontoblow。Ourboatwaslostastern，oursailsdamaged，andtheeveningfoundushackagaininMacassarharbour。Weremainedtherefourdayslonger，owingtoitsrainingallthetime，thusrenderingitimpossibletodryandrepairthehugematsails。AllthesedrearydaysIremainedonboard，andduringtherareintervalswhenitdidn\'train，mademyselfacquaintedwithouroutlandishcraft，someofthepeculiaritiesofwhichIwillnowendeavourtodescribe。

Itwasavesselofaboutseventytonsburthen，andshapedsomethinglikeaChinesejunk。Thedeckslopedconsiderablydownwardtothebows，whicharethusthelowestpartoftheship。

Thereweretwolargerudders，butinsteadofbeingplanedasterntheywerehungonthequartersfromstrongcrossbeams，whichprojectedouttwoorthreefeetoneachside，andtowhichextentthedeckoverhungthesidesofthevesselamidships。Therudderswerenothingedbuthungwithslingsofrattan，thefrictionofwhichkeepstheminanypositioninwhichtheyareplaced，andthusperhapsfacilitatessteering。Thetillerswerenotondeck，butenteredthevesselthroughtwosquareopeningsintoalowerorhalfdeckaboutthreefeethigh，inwhichsitthetwosteersmen。Intheafterpartofthevesselwasalowpoop，aboutthreeandahalffeethigh，whichformsthecaptain\'scabin，itsfurnitureconsistingofboxes，mats，andpillows。Infrontofthepoopandmainmastwasalittlethatchedhouseondeck，aboutfourfeethightotheridge；andonecompartmentofthis，formingacabinsixandahalffeetlongbyfiveandahalfwide，Ihadalltomyself，anditwasthesnuggestandmostcomfortablelittleplaceIeverenjoyedatsea。Itwasenteredbyalowslidingdoorofthatchononeside，andhadaverysmallwindowontheother。

Thefloorwasofsplitbamboo，pleasantlyelastic，raisedsixinchesabovethedeck，soastobequitedry。Itwascoveredwithfinecanemats，forthemanufactureofwhichMacassariscelebrated；againstthefurtherwallwerearrangedmyguncase，insect-boxes，clothes，andbooks；mymattressoccupiedthemiddle，andnextthedoorweremycanteen，lamp，andlittlestoreofluxuriesforthevoyage；whileguns，revolver，andhuntingknifehungconvenientlyfromtheroof。DuringthesefourmiserabledaysIwasquitejollyinthislittlesnuggerymoresothanIshouldhavebeenifconfinedthesametimetothegildedanduncomfortablesaloonofafirst-classsteamer。Then，howcomparativelysweetwaseverythingonboard——nopaint，notar，nonewrope，(vilestofsmellstothequalmish！)nogrease，oroil，orvarnish；butinsteadofthese，bambooandrattan，andcoirropeandpalmthatch；purevegetablefibres，whichsmellpleasantlyiftheysmellatall，andrecallquietscenesinthegreenandshadyforest。

Ourshiphadtwomasts，ifmaststheycanbecalledcwhichweregreatmoveabletriangles。Ifinanordinaryshipyoureplacetheshroudsandbackstaybystrongtimbers，andtakeawaythemastaltogether，youhavethearrangementadoptedonboardaprau。

Abovemycabin，andrestingoncross-beamsattachedtothemasts，wasawildernessofyardsandspars，mostlyformedofbamboo。Themainyard，animmenseaffairnearlyahundredfeetlong，wasformedofmanypiecesofwoodandbambooboundtogetherwithrattansinaningeniousmanner。Thesailcarriedbythiswasofanoblongshape，andwashungoutofthecentre，sothatwhentheshortendwashauleddownondeckthelongendmountedhighintheair，makingupforthelownessofthemastitself。Theforesailwasofthesameshape，butsmaller。Boththesewereofmatting，and，withtwojibsandaforeandaftsailasternofcottoncanvas，completedourrig。

Thecrewconsistedofaboutthirtymen，nativesofMacassarandtheadjacentcoastsandislands。Theyweremostlyyoung，andwereshort，broad-faced，good-humouredlookingfellows。Theirdressconsistedgenerallyofapairoftrousersonly，whenatwork，andahandkerchieftwistedroundthehead，towhichintheeveningtheywouldaddathincottonjacket。Fouroftheeldermenwere"jurumudis，"orsteersmen，whohadtosquat(twoatatime)inthelittlesteeragebeforedescribed，changingeverysixhours。Thentherewasanoldman，the"juragan，"orcaptain，butwhowasreallywhatweshouldcallthefirstmate；heoccupiedtheotherhalfofthelittlehouseondeck。Therewereabouttenrespectablemen，ChineseorBugis，whomourownerusedtocall"hisownpeople。"Hetreatedthemverywell，sharedhismealswiththem，andspoketothemalwayswithperfectpoliteness；yettheyweremostofthemakindofslavedebtors，boundoverbythepolicemagistratetoworkforhimatmerenominalwagesforatermofyearstilltheirdebtswereliquidated。ThisisaDutchinstitutioninthispartoftheworld，andseemstoworkwell。Itisagreatboontotraders，whocandonothinginthesethinly-

populatedregionswithouttrustinggoodstoagentsandpettydealers，whofrequentlysquanderthemawayingamblinganddebauchery。Thelowerclassesarealmostallinachronicstateofdebt。Themerchanttruststhemagainandagain，tilltheamountissomethingserious，whenhebringsthemtocourtandhastheirservicesallottedtohimforitsliquidation。Thedebtorsseemtothinkthisnodisgrace，butratherenjoytheirfreedomfromresponsibility，andthedignityoftheirpositionunderawealthyandwell-knownmerchant。Theytradealittleontheirownaccount，andbothpartiesseemtogetonverywelltogether。Theplanseemsamoresensibleonethanthatwhichweadopt，ofeffectuallypreventingamanfromearninganythingtowardspayinghisdebtsbyshuttinghimupinajail。

Myownservantswerethreeinnumber。Ali，theMalayboywhomI

hadpickedupinBorneo，wasmyheadman。Hehadalreadybeenwithmeayear，couldturnhishandtoanything，andwasquiteattentiveandtrustworthy。Hewasagoodshot，andfondofshooting，andIhadtaughthimtoskinbirdsverywell。Thesecond，namedBaderoon，wasaMacassarlad；alsoaprettygoodboy，butadesperategambler。Underpretenceofbuyingahouseforhismother，andclothes，forhimself，hehadreceivedfourmonths\'wagesaboutaweekbeforewesailed，andinadayortwogambledawayeverydollarofit。Hehadcomeonboardwithnoclothes，nobetel，ortobacco，orsaltfish，allwhichnecessaryarticlesIwasobligedtosendAlitobuyforhim。Thesetwoladswereaboutsixteen，Ishouldsuppose；thethirdwasyounger，asharplittlerascalnamedBaso，whohadbeenwithmeamonthortwo，andhadlearnttocooktolerably。Hewastofulfiltheimportantofficeofcookandhousekeeper，forIcouldnotgetanyregularservantstogotosuchaterriblyremotecountry；onemightaswellaskachefdecuisinetogotoPatagonia。

OnthefifthdaythatIhadspentonboard(Dec。15th)therainceased，andfinalpreparationsweremadeforstarting。Sailsweredriedandfurled，boatswereconstantlycomingandgoing，andstoresforthevoyage，fruit，vegetables，fish，andpalmsugar，weretakenonboard。Intheafternoontwowomenarrivedwithalargepartyoffriendsandrelations，andatpartingtherewasageneralnoserubbing(theMalaykiss)，andsometearsshed。Thesewerepromisingsymptomsforourgettingoffthenextday；andaccordingly，atthreeinthemorning，theownercameonboard，theanchorwasimmediatelyweighed，andbyfourwesetsail。Justaswewerefairlyoffandclearoftheotherpraus，theoldjuraganrepeatedsomeprayers，allaroundrespondingwith"AllahilAllah，"andafewstrokesonagongasanaccompaniment，concludingwithallwishingeachother"Salaamatjalan，"asafeandhappyjourney。Wehadalightbreeze，acalmsea，andafinemorning，aprosperouscommencementofourvoyageofaboutathousandmilestothefar-famedAruIslands。

Thewindcontinuedlightandvariableallday，withacalmintheeveningbeforethelandbreezesprangup，werethenpassingtheislandof"Tanakaki"(footoftheland)，attheextremesouthofthispartofCelebes。Therearesomedangerousrockshere，andasIwasstandingbythebulwarks，Ihappenedtospitovertheside；

oneofthemenbeggedIwouldnotdosojustnow，butspitondeck，astheyweremuchafraidofthisplace。Notquitecomprehending，Imadehimrepeathisrequest，when，seeinghewasinearnest，Isaid，"Verywell，Isupposethereare\'hantus\'

(spirits)here。""Yes，"saidhe，"andtheydon\'tlikeanythingtobethrownoverboard；manyaprauhasbeenlostbydoingit。"UponwhichIpromisedtobeverycareful。AtsunsetthegoodMahometansonboardallrepeatedafewwordsofprayerwithageneralchorus，remindingmeofthepleasingandimpressive"Ave。

Maria"ofCatholiccountries。

Dec。20th-AtsunrisewewereoppositetheBontynemountain，saidtobeoneofthehighestinCelebes。IntheafternoonwepassedtheSalayerStraitsandhadalittlesquall，whichobligedustolowerourhugemast，sails，andheavyyards。Therestoftheeveningwehadafinewestwind，whichcarriedusonatnearfiveknotsanhour，asmuchasourlumberingoldtubcanpossiblygo。

Dec。21st-Aheavyswellfromthesouth-westrollingusaboutmostuncomfortably。Asteadywindwasblowinghowever，andwegotonverywell。

Dec。22d-Theswellhadgonedown。WepassedBoutong，alargeisland，high，woody，andpopulous，thenativeplaceofsomeofourcrew。AsmallpraureturningfromBalitothe，islandofGoramovertookus。Thenakoda(captain)wasknowntoourowner。

Theyhadbeentwoyearsaway，butwerefullofpeople，withseveralblackPapuansonboard。At6P。M。wepassedWangiwangi，lowbutnotflat，inhabitedandsubjecttoBoutong。WehadnowfairlyenteredtheMoluccaSea。Afterdarkitwasabeautifulsighttolookdownonourrudders，fromwhichrushededdyingstreamsofphosphoriclightgemmedwithwhirlingsparksoffire。

Itresembled(morenearlythananythingelsetowhichIcancompareit)oneofthelargeirregularnebulousstar-clustersseenthroughagoodtelescope，withtheadditionalattractionofever-changingformanddancingmotion。

Dec。23d-Fineredsunrise；theislandweleftlasteveningbarelyvisiblebehindus。TheGoramprauaboutamilesouthofus。Theyhavenocompass，yettheyhavekeptaverytruecourseduringthenight。Ourownertellsmetheydoitbytheswellofthesea，thedirectionofwhichtheynoticeatsunset，andsailbyitduringthenight。Intheseseastheyarenever(infineweather)morethantwodayswithoutseeingland。Ofcourseadversewindsorcurrentssometimescarrythemaway，buttheysoonfallinwithsomeisland，andtherearealwayssomeoldsailorsonboardwhoknowit，andthencetakeanewcourse。Lastnightasharkaboutfivefeetlongwascaught，andthismorningitwascutupandcooked。Intheafternoontheygotanother，andIhadalittlefried，andfounditfirmanddry，butverypalatable。Intheeveningthesunsetinaheavybankofclouds，which，asdarknesscameon，assumedafearfullyblackappearance。

Accordingtocustom，whenstrongwindorrainisexpected，ourlargesails-werefurled，andwiththeiryardsletdownondeck，andasmallsquareforesailalonekeptup。Thegreatmatsailsaremostawkwardthingstomanageinroughweather。Theyardswhichsupportthemareseventyfeetlong，andofcourseveryheavy，andtheonlywaytofurlthembeingtorollupthesailontheboom，itisaverydangerousthingtohavethemstandingwhenovertakenbyasquall。Ourcrew；thoughnumerousenoughforavesselof700insteadofoneof70tons，haveitverymuchtheirownway，andthereseemstobeseldommorethanadozenatworkatatime。Whenanythingimportantistobedone，however，allstartupwillinglyenough，butthenallthinkthemselvesatlibertytogivetheiropinion，andhalfadozenvoicesareheardgivingorders，andthereissuchashriekingandconfusionthatitseemswonderfulanythinggetsdoneatall。

Consideringwehavefiftymenofseveraltribesandtonguesonboard，wild，half-savagelookingfellows，andfewofthemfeelinganyoftherestraintsofmoralityoreducation，wegetonwonderfullywell。Thereisnofightingorquarrelling，astherewouldcertainlybeamongthesamenumberofEuropeanswithaslittlerestraintupontheiractions，andthereisscarcelyanyofthatnoiseandexcitementwhichmightbeexpected。Infineweatherthegreaterpartofthemarequietlyenjoyingthemselves——

somearesleepingundertheshadowofthesails；others，inlittlegroupsofthreeorfour，aretalkingorchewingbetel；oneismakinganewhandletohischopping-knife，anotherisstitchingawayatanewpairoftrousersorashirt，andallareasquietandwell-conductedasonboardthebest-orderedEnglishmerchantman。Twoorthreetakeitbyturnstowatchinthebowsandseeafterthebracesandhalyardsofthegreatsails；thetwosteersmenarebelowinthesteerage；ourcaptain，orthejuragan，givesthecourse，guidedpartlybythecompassandpartlybythedirectionofthewind，andawatchoftwoorthreeonthepooplookafterthetrimmingofthesailsandcalloutthehoursbythewater-clock。Thisisaveryingeniouscontrivance，whichmeasurestimewellinbothroughweatherandfine。Itissimplyabuckethalffilledwithwater，inwhichfloatsthehalfofawell-scrapedcocoa-nutshell。Inthebottomofthisshellisaverysmallhole，sothatwhenplacedtofloatinthebucketafinethreadofwatersquirtsupintoit。Thisgraduallyfillstheshell，andthesizeoftheholeissoadjustedtothecapacityofthevesselthat，exactlyattheendofanhour，plumpitgoestothebottom。Thewatchthencriesoutthenumberofhoursfromsunriseandsetstheshellafloatagainempty。Thisisaverygoodmeasureroftime。Itesteditwithmywatchandfoundthatithardlyvariedaminutefromonehourtoanother，nordidthemotionofthevesselhaveanyeffectuponit，asthewaterinthebucketofcoursekeptlevel。Ithasagreatadvantageforarudepeopleinbeingeasilyunderstood，inbeingratherbulkyandeasytosee，andinthefinalsubmergencebeingaccompaniedwithalittlebubblingandcommotionofthewater，whichcallstheattentiontoit。Itisalsoquicklyreplacediflostwhileinharbour。

OurcaptainandownerIfindtobeaquiet，good-temperedman，whoseemstogetonverywellwithallabouthim。Whenatseahedrinksnowineorspirits，butindulgesonlyincoffeeandcakes，morningandafternoon，incompanywithhissupercargoandassistants。Heisamanofsomelittleeducation，canreadandwritewellbothDutchandMalay，usesacompass，andhasachart。

HehasbeenatradertoAruformanyyears，andiswellknowntobothEuropeansandnativesinthispartoftheworld。

Dec。24th-Fine，andlittlewind。NolandinsightforthefirsttimesinceweleftMacassar。Atnooncalm，withheavyshowers，inwhichourcrewwashtheirclothes，antiintheafternoontheprauiscoveredwithshirts，trousers，andsarongsofvariousgaycolours。Imadeadiscoveryto-daywhichatfirstratheralarmedme。Thetwoports，oropenings，throughwhichthetillersenterfromthelateralruddersarenotmorethanthreeorfourfeetabovethesurfaceofthewater，whichthushasafreeentranceintothevessel。Iofcoursehadimaginedthatthisopenspacefromonesidetotheotherwasseparatedfromtheholdbyawater-tightbulkhead，sothataseaenteringmightwashoutatthefurtherside，anddonomoreharmthangivethesteersmenadrenching。Tomysurpriseenddismay，however，Ifindthatitiscompletelyopentothehold，sothathalf-a-dozenseasrollinginonastormynightwouldnearly，orquite，swampus。Thinkofavesselgoingtoseaforamonthwithtwoholes，eachayardsquare，intothehold，atthreefeetabovethewater-line，-holes，too，whichcannotpossiblybeclosed！Butourcaptainsaysallprausareso；andthoughheacknowledgesthedanger，"hedoesnotknowhowtoalterit——thepeopleareusedtoit；hedoesnotunderstandpraussowellastheydo，andifsuchagreatalterationweremade，heshouldbesuretohavedifficultyingettingacrew！"Thisprovesatalleventsthatprausmustbegoodsea-boats，forthecaptainhasbeencontinuallymakingvoyagesinthemforthelasttenyears，andsayshehasneverknownwaterenoughentertodoanyharm。

Dec。25th-Christmas-daydawneduponuswithgustsofwind，drivingrain，thunderandlightning，addedtowhichashortconfusedseamadeourqueervesselpitchandrollveryuncomfortably。Aboutnineo\'clock，however，itclearedup，andwethensawaheadofusthefineislandofBouru，perhapsfortyorfiftymilesdistant，itsmountainswreathedwithclouds，whileitslowerlandswerestillinvisible。Theafternoonwasfine，andthewindgotroundagaintothewest；butalthoughthisisreallythewestmonsoon，thereisnoregularityorsteadinessaboutit，calmsandbreezesfromeverypointofthecompasscontinuallyoccurring。Thecaptain，thoughnominallyaProtestant，seemedtohavenoideaofChristmas-dayasafestival。Ourdinnerwasofriceandcurryasusual，andanextraglassofwinewasallI

coulddotocelebrateit。

Dec。26th——FineviewofthemountainsofBouru，whichwehavenowapproachedconsiderably。Ourcrewseemratheraclumsylot。

TheydonotwalkthedeckwiththeeasyswingofEnglishsailors，buthesitateandstaggerlikelandsmen。Inthenightthelowerboomofourmainsailbroke，andtheywereallthemorningrepairingit。Itconsistedoftwobambooslashedtogether，thickendtothin，andwasaboutseventyfeetlong。TheriggingandarrangementoftheseprauscontrastsstrangelywiththatofEuropeanvessels，inwhichthevariousropesandspars，thoughmuchmorenumerous，areplacedsoasnottointerferewitheachother\'saction。Herethecaseisquitedifferent；forthoughtherearenoshroudsorstaystocomplicatethematter，yetscarcelyanythingcanbedonewithoutfirstclearingsomethingelseoutoftheway。Thelargesailscannotbeshiftedroundtogoontheothertackwithoutfirsthaulingdownthejibs，andtheboomsoftheforeandaftsailshavetobeloweredandcompletelydetachedtoperformthesameoperation。Thentherearealwaysalotofropesfoulofeachother，andallthesailscanneverbeset(thoughtheyaresofew)withoutagoodpartoftheirsurfacehavingthewindkeptoutofthembyothers。YetprausaremuchlikedevenbythosewhohavehadEuropeanvessels，becauseoftheircheapnessbothinfirstcostandinkeepingup；almostallrepairscanbedonebythecrew，andveryfewEuropeanstoresarerequired。

Dec。28th——ThisdaywesawtheBandagroup，thevolcanofirstappearing，——aperfectcone，havingverymuchtheoutlineoftheEgyptianpyramids，andlookingalmostasregular。Intheeveningthesmokerestedoveritssummitlikeasmallstationarycloud。

Thiswasmyfirstviewofanactivevolcano，butpicturesandpanoramashavesoimpressedsuchthingsonone\'smind，thatwhenweatlengthbeholdthemtheyseemnothingextraordinary。

Dec。30th——PassedtheislandofTeor，andagroupnearit，whichareveryincorrectlymarkedonthecharts。Flying-fishwerenumerousto-day。ItisasmallerspeciesthanthatoftheAtlantic，andmoreactiveandelegantinitsmotions。Astheyskimalongthesurfacetheyturnontheirsides，soasfullytodisplaytheirbeautifulfins，takingaflightofaboutahundredyards，risingandfallinginnmostgracefulmanner。Atalittledistancetheyexactlyresembleswallows，andnoonewhoseesthemcandoubtthattheyreallydofly，notmerelydescendinanobliquedirectionfromtheheighttheygainbytheirfirstspring。Intheeveninganaquaticbird，aspeciesofbooby(Sulafiber。)restedonourhen-coop，andwascaughtbytheneckbyoneofmyboys。

Dec。31st，——AtdaybreaktheKeIslands(pronouncedKay)wereinsight，wherewearetostayafewdays。Aboutnoonweroundedthenorthernpoint，andendeavouredtocoastalongtotheanchorage；

butbeingnowontheleewardsideoftheisland，thewindcameinviolentirregulargusts，andthenleavingusaltogether，wewerecarriedbackbyastrongcurrent。Justthentwoboats-loadofnativesappeared，andourownerhavingagreedwiththemtotowusintoharbour，theytriedtodoso，assistedbyourownboat，butcouldmakenoway。Wewerethereforeobligedtoanchorinaverydangerousplaceonarockybottom，andwewereengagedtillnearlydarkgettinghawserssecuredtosomerocksunderwater。

ThecoastofKealongwhichwehadpassedwasverypicturesque。

Lightcolouredlimestonerocksroseabruptlyfromthewatertotheheightofseveralhundredfeet，everywherebrokenintojuttingpeaksandpinnacles，weather-wornintosharppointsandhoneycombedsurfaces，andclothedthroughoutwithamostvariedandluxuriantvegetation。Thecliffsabovetheseaofferedtoourviewscrew-pinesandarborescentLiliaceaeofstrangeforms，mingledwithshrubsandcreepers；whilethehigherslopessupportedadensegrowthofforesttrees。Hereandtherelittlebaysandinletspresentedbeachesofdazzlingwhiteness。Thewaterwastransparentascrystal，andtingedtherock-strewnslopewhichplungedsteeplyintoitsunfathomabledepthswithcoloursvaryingfromemeraldtolapis-lazuli。Theseawascalmasalake，andtheglorioussunofthetropicsthrewafloodofgoldenlightoverall。Thescenewastomeinexpressiblydelightful。Iwasinanewworld，andcoulddreamofthewonderfulproductionshidinthoserockyforests，andinthoseazureabysses。ButfewEuropeanfeethadevertroddentheshoresIgazeduponitsplants，andanimals，andmenwerealikealmostunknown，andIcouldnothelpspeculatingonwhatmywanderingsthereforafewdaysmightbringtolight。

CHAPTERXXIX

THEKEISLANDS。

(JANUARY1857)

THEnativeboatsthathadcometomeetuswerethreeorfourinnumber，containinginallaboutfiftymen。

Theywerelongcanoes，withthebowandsternrisingupintoabeaksixornightfeethigh，decoratedwithshellsandwavingplumesofcassowarieshair。InowhadmyfirstviewofPapuansintheirowncountry，andinlessthanfiveminuteswasconvincedthattheopinionalreadyarrivedatbytheexaminationofafewTimorandNewGuineaslaveswassubstantiallycorrect，andthatthepeopleInowhadanopportunityofcomparingsidebysidebelongedtotwoofthemostdistinctandstronglymarkedracesthattheearthcontains。HadIbeenblind，IcouldhavebeencertainthattheseislanderswerenotMalays。Theloud，rapid，eagertones，theincessantmotion，theintensevitalactivitymanifestedinspeechandaction，aretheveryantipodesofthequiet，unimpulsive，unanimatedMalayTheseKemencameupsingingandshouting，dippingtheirpaddlesdeepinthewaterandthrowingupcloudsofspray；astheyapproachednearertheystoodupintheircanoesandincreasedtheirnoiseandgesticulations；

andoncomingalongside，withoutaskingleave，andwithoutamoment\'shesitation，thegreaterpartofthemscrambleduponourdeckjustasiftheywerecometotakepossessionofacapturedvessel。Thencommencedasceneofindescribableconfusion。Thesefortyblack，naked，mop-headedsavagesseemedintoxicatedwithjoyandexcitement。Notoneofthemcouldremainstillforamoment。Everyindividualofourcrewwasinturnsurroundedandexamined，askedfortobaccoorarrack，grinnedatanddesertedforanother。Alltalkedatonce，andourcaptainwasregularlymobbedbythechiefmen，whowantedtobeemployedtotowusin，andwhobeggedvociferouslytobepaidinadvance。Afewpresentsoftobaccomadetheireyesglisten；theywouldexpresstheirsatisfactionbygrinsandshouts，byrollingondeck，orbyaheadlongleapoverboard。Schoolboysonanunexpectedholiday，Irishmenatafair，ormid-shipmenonshore，wouldgivebutafaintideaoftheexuberantanimalenjoymentofthesepeople。

UndersimilarcircumstancesMalayscouldnotbehaveasthesePapuansdid。Iftheycameonboardavessel(afteraskingpermission)，notawordwouldbeatfirstspoken，exceptafewcompliments，andonlyaftersometime，andverycautiously，worldanyapproachbemadetobusiness。Onewouldspeakatatime，withalowvoiceandgreatdeliberation，andthemodeofmakingabargainwouldbebyquietlyrefusingallyouroffers，orevengoingawaywithoutsayinganotherwordaboutthematter，unlessadvancedyourpricetowhattheywerewillingtoaccept。Ourcrew，manyofwhomhadnotmadethevoyagebefore，seemedquitescandalizedatsuchunprecedentedbadmanners，andonlyverygraduallymadeanyapproachtofraternizationwiththeblackfellows。Theyremindedmeofapartyofdemureandwell-behavedchildrensuddenlybrokeninuponbyalotofwildromping，riotousboys，whoseconductseemsmostextraordinaryandverynaughty。Thesemoralfeaturesaremorestrikingandmoreconclusiveofabsolutediversitythanoventhephysicalcontrastpresentedbythetworaces，thoughthatissufficientlyremarkable。Thesootyblacknessoftheskin，themop-likeheadoffrizzlyhair，and，mostimportantofall，themarkedformofcountenanceofquiteadifferenttypefromthatoftheMalay，arewhatwecannotbelievetoresultfrommereclimatalorothermodifyinginfluencesononeandthesamerace。TheMalayfaceisoftheMongoliantype，broadandsomewhatflat。Thebrowsaredepressed，themouthwide，butnotprojecting，andthenosesmallandwellformedbutforthegreatdilatationofthenostrils。Thefaceissmooth，andrarelydevelopsthetraceofabeard；thehairblack，coarse，andperfectlystraight。ThePapuan，ontheotherhand，hasafacewhichwemaysayiscompressedandprojecting。Thebrowsareprotuberantandoverhanging，themouthlargeandprominent，whilethenoseisverylarge，theapexelongateddownwards，theridgethick，andthenostrilslarge。Itisanobtrusiveandremarkablefeatureinthecountenance，theveryreverseofwhatobtainsintheMalayface。Thetwistedbeardandfrizzlyhaircompletethisremarkablecontrast。HerothenI

hadreachedanewworld，inhabitedbyastrangepeople。BetweentheMalayantribes，amongwhomIhadforsomeyearsbeenliving，andthePapuanraces，whosecountryIhadnowentered，wemayfairlysaythatthereisasmuchdifference，bothmoralandphysical，asbetweentheredIndiansofSouthAmericaandthenegroesofGuineaontheoppositesideoftheAtlantic。

Jan。1st，1857-Thishasbeenadayofthoroughenjoyment。IhavewanderedintheforestsofanislandrarelyseenbyEuropeans。

Beforedaybreakweleftouranchorage，andinanhourreachedthevillageofHar，whereweweretostaythreeorfourdays。Therangeofhillshererecededsoastoformasmallbay，andtheywerebrokenupintopeaksandhummockswithinterveningflatsandhollows。Abroadbeachofthewhitestsandlinedtheinnerpartofthebay，backedbyamassofcocoa-nutpalms，amongwhichthehutswereconcealed，andsurmountedbyadenseandvariedgrowthoftimber。Canoesandboatsofvarioussizesweredrawnuponthebeachandoneortwoidlers，withafewchildrenandadog，gazedatourprauaswecametoananchor。

Whenwewentonshorethefirstthingthatattracteduswasalargeandwell-constructedshed，underwhichalongboatwasbeingbuilt，whileothersinvariousstagesofcompletionwereplacedatintervalsalongthebeach。Ourcaptain，whowantedtwoofmoderatesizeforthetradeamongtheislandsatAru，immediatelybeganbargainingforthem，andinashorttinehadarrangedthenunsnumberofbrassguns，gongs，sarongs，handkerchiefs，axes，whiteplates，tobacco，andarrack，whichhewastogiveforahairwhichcouldbegotreadyinfourdays。Wethenwenttothevillage，whichconsistedonlyofthreeorfourhuts，situatedimmediatelyabovethebeachonanirregularrockypieceofgroundovershadowedwithcocoa-nuts，palms，bananas，andotherfruittrees。Thehouseswereveryrude，black，andhalfrotten，raisedafewfeetonpostswithlowsidesofbambooorplanks，andhighthatchedroofs。Theyhadsmalldoorsandnowindows，anopeningundertheprojectinggableslettingthesmokeoutandalittlelightin。Thefloorswereofstripsofbamboo，thin，slippery，andelastic，andsoweakthatmyfeetwereindangerofplungingthroughateverystep。Nativeboxesofpandanus-leavesandslabsofpalmpith，veryneatlyconstructed，matsofthesame，jarsandcookingpotsofnativepottery，andafewEuropeanplatesandbasins，werethewholefurniture，andtheinteriorwasthroughoutdarkandsmoke-blackened，anddismalintheextreme。

AccompaniedbyAliandBaderoon，Inowattemptedtomakesomeexplorations，andwewerefollowedbyatrainofboyseagertoseewhatweweregoingtodo。Themosttroddenpathfromthebeachledusintoashadyhollow，wherethetreeswereofimmenseheightandtheundergrowthscanty。Fromthesummitsofthesetreescameatintervalsadeepboomingsound，whichatfirstpuzzledus，butwhichwesoonfoundtoproceedfromsomelargepigeons。Myboysshotatthem，andafteroneortwomisses，broughtonedown。Itwasamagnificentbirdtwentyincheslong，ofabluishwhitecolour，withthebackwingsandtailintensemetallicgreen，withgolden，blue，andvioletreflexions，thefeetcoralred，andtheeyesgoldenyellow。Itisararespecies，whichIhavenamedCarpophagaconcinna，andisfoundonlyinafewsmallislands，where，however，itabounds。ItisthesamespecieswhichintheislandofBandaiscalledthenutmeg-pigeon，fromitshabitofdevouringthefruits，theseedornutmegbeingthrownupentireanduninjured。Thoughthesepigeonshaveanarrowbeak，yettheirjawsandthroataresoextensiblethattheycanswallowfruitsofverylargesize。Ihadbeforeshotaspeciesmuchsmallerthanthisone，whichhadanumberofhardglobularpalm-fruitsinitscrop，eachmorethananinchindiameter。

Alittlefurtherthepathdividedintotwo，oneleadingalongthebeach，andacrossmangroveandsagoswampstheotherrisingtocultivatedgrounds。Wethereforereturned，andtakingafreshdeparturefromthevillage，endeavouredtoascendthehillsandpenetrateintotheinterior。Thepath，however，wasamosttryingone。Wheretherewasearth，itwasadepositofreddishclayoverlyingtherock，andwaswornsosmoothbytheattritionofnakedfeetthatmyshoescouldobtainnoholdontheslopingsurface。Alittlefartherwecametothebarerock，andthiswasworse，foritwassoruggedandbroken，andsohoneycombedandweatherwornintosharppointsandangles，thatmyboys，whohadgonebarefootedalltheirlives，couldnotstandit。Theirfeetbegantobleed，andIsawthatifIdidnotwantthemcompletelylameditwouldbewisetoturnlack。Myownshoes，whichwereratherthin，werebutapoorprotection，andwouldsoonhavebeencuttopieces；yetourlittlenakedguidestrippedalongwiththegreatesteaseandunconcern，andseemedmuchastonishedatoureffeminacyinnotbeingabletotakeawalkwhichtothemwasaperfectlyagreeableone。Duringtherestofourstayintheislandwewereobligedtoconfineourselvestothevicinityoftheshoreandthecultivatedgrounds，andthosemorelevelportionsoftheforestwherealittlesoilhadaccumulatedandtherockhadbeenlessexposedtoatmosphericaction。

TheislandofKe(pronouncedexactlyastheletterK，buterroneouslyspeltinourmapsKeyorKi)islongandnarrow，runninginanorthandsouthdirection，andconsistsalmostentirelyofrockandmountain。Itiseverywherecoveredwithluxuriantforests，andinitsbaysandinletsthesandisofdazzlingwhiteness，resultingfromthedecompositionofthecorallinelimestoneofwhichitisentirelycomposed。Inallthelittleswampyinletsandvalleyssagotreesabound，andthesesupplythemainsubsistenceofthenatives，whogrownorice，andhavescarcelyanyothercultivatedproductsbutcocoa-nuts，plantains，andyams。Fromthecocoa-nuts，whichsurroundeveryhut，andwhichthriveexceedinglyontheporouslimestonesoilandundertheinfluenceofsaltbreezes，oilismadewhichissoldatagoodpricetotheArutraders，whoalltouchheretolayintheirstuckofthisarticle，aswellastopurchaseboatsandnativecrockery。Woodenbowls，pans，andtraysarealsolargelymadehere，hewnoutofsolidblocksofwoodwithknifeandadze；andthesearecarriedtoallpartsoftheMoluccas。ButtheartinwhichthenativesofKepre-eminentlyexcelisthatofboatbuilding。Theirforestssupplyabundanceoffinetimber，though，probablynotmoresothanmanyotherislands，andfromsomeunknowncausestheseremotesavageshavecometoexcelinwhatseemsaverydifficultart。Theirsmallcanoesarebeautifullyformed，broadandlowinthecentre，butrisingateachend，wheretheyterminateinhigh-pointedbeaksmoreorlesscarved，andornamentedwithaplumeoffeathers。Theyarenothollowedoutofatree，butareregularlybuiltofplanksrunningfromegotoend，andsoaccuratelyfittedthatitisoftendifficulttofindaplacewhereaknife-bladecanbeinsertedbetweenthejoints。Thelargeronesarefrom20to30tonsburthen，andarefinishedreadyforseawithoutanailorparticleofironbeingused，andwithnoothertoolsthanaxe，adze，andauger。Thesevesselsarehandsometolookat，goodsailers，andadmirablesea-boats，andwillmakelongvoyageswithperfectsafety，traversingthewholeArchipelagofromNewGuineatoSingaporeinseaswhich，aseveryonewhohassailedmuchinthemcantestify，arenotsosmoothandtempest-freeasword-

paintingtravellerslovetorepresentthem。

TheforestsofKeproducemagnificenttimber，tall，straight，anddurable，ofvariousqualities，someofwhicharesaidtobesuperiortothebestIndianteak。Tomakeeachpairofplanksusedintheconstructionofthelargerboatsanentiretreeisconsumed。Itisfelled，oftenmilesawayfromtheshore，cutacrosstotheproperlength，andthenhewnlongitudinallyintotwoequalportions。Eachoftheseformsaplankbycuttingdownwiththeaxetoauniformthicknessofthreeorfourinches，leavingatfirstasolidblockateachendtopreventsplitting。

Alongthecentreofeachplankaseriesofprojectingpiecesareleft，standingupthreeorfourinches，aboutthesamewidth，andafootlong；theseareofgreatimportanceintheconstructionofthevessel。Whenasufficientnumberofplankshavebeenmade，theyarelaboriouslydraggedthroughtheforestbythreeorfourmeneachtothebeach，wheretheboatistobebuilt。A

foundationpiece，broadinthemiddleandrisingconsiderablyateachend，isfirstlaidonblocksandproperlyshoredup。Theedgesofthisareworkedtrueandsmoothwiththeadze，andaplank，properlycurvedandtaperingateachend，isheldfirmlyupagainstit，whilealineisstruckalongitwhichallowsittobecutsoastofitexactly。Aseriesofaugerholes，aboutaslargeasone\'sfinger，arethenboredalongtheoppositeedges，andpinsofveryhardwoodarefittedtothese，sothatthetwoplanksareheldfirmly，andcanbedrivenintotheclosestcontact；anddifficultasthisseemstodowithoutanyotheraidthanrudepracticalskillinformingeachedgetothetruecorrespondingcurves，andinporingtheholessoasexactlytomatchbothinpositionanddirection，yetsowellisitdonethatthebestEuropeanshipwrightcannotproducesounderorcloser-

fittingjoints。Theboatisbuiltupinthiswaybyfittingplanktoplanktilltheproperheightandwidthareobtained。Wehavenowaskinheldtogetherentirelybythehardwoodpinsconnectingtheedgesoftheplanks，verystrongandelastic，buthavingnothingbuttheadhesionofthesepinstopreventtheplanksgaping。Inthesmallerboatsseats，inthelargeronescross-

beams，arenowfixed。Theyaresprungintoslightnotchescuttoreceivethem，andarefurthersecuredtotheprojectingpiecesoftheplankbelowbyastronglashingofrattan。Ribsarenowformedofsinglepiecesoftoughwoodchosenandtrimmedsoasexactlytofitontotheprojectionsfromeachplank，beingslightlynotchedtoreceivethem，andsecurelyboundtothembyrattanspassedthroughaholeineachprojectingpiececlosetothesurfaceoftheplank。Theendsareclosedagainsttheverticalprowandsternposts，andfurthersecuredwithpegsandrattans，andthentheboatiscomplete；andwhenfittedwithrudders，masts，andthatchedcovering，isreadytodobattlewith，thewaves。Acarefulconsiderationoftheprincipleofthismodeofconstruction，andallowingforthestrengthandbindingqualitiesofrattan(whichresemblesintheserespectswireratherthancordage)，makesmebelievethatavesselcarefullybuiltinthismannerisactuallystrongerandsaferthanonefastenedintheordinarywaywithnails。

Duringourstayherewewereallverybusy。Ourcaptainwasdailysuperintendingthecompletionofhistwosmallpraus。Alldaylongnativeboatswerecomingwithfish，cocoa-nuts，parrotsandlories，earthenpans，siripleaf，woodenbowls，andtrays，&c。

&e。，whicheveryoneofthefiftyinhabitantsofourprauseemedtobebuyingonhisownaccount，tillallavailableandmostunavailablespaceofourvesselwasoccupiedwiththesemiscellaneousarticles：foreverymanonboardaprauconsidershimselfatlibertytotrade，andtocarrywithhimwhateverhecanaffordtobuy。

Moneyisunknownandvaluelesshere——knives，cloth，andarrackformingtheonlymediumofexchange，withtobaccoforsmallcoin。

Everytransactionisthesubjectofaspecialbargain，andthecauseofmuchtalking。Itisabsolutelynecessarytoofferverylittle，asthenativesareneversatisfiedtillyouaddalittlemore。Theyarethenfarbetterpleasedthanifyouhadgiventhemtwicetheamountatfirstandrefusedtoincreaseit。

I，too，wasdoingalittlebusiness，havingpersuadedsomeofthenativestocollectinsectsforme；andwhentheyreallyfoundthatIgavethemmostfragranttobaccoforworthlessblackandgreenbeetles，Isoonhadscoresofvisitors，men，women，andchildren，bringingbamboosfullofcreepingthings，which，alas！

toofrequentlyhadeateneachotherintofragmentsduringthetediumofaday\'sconfinement。Ofonegrandnewbeetle，glitteringwithrubyandemeraldtints，Igotalargequantity，havingfirstdetectedoneofitswing-casesornamentingtheoutsideofanative\'stobaccopouch。Itwasquiteanewspecies，andhadnotbeenfoundelsewherethanonthislittleisland。ItisoneoftheBuprestidae，andhasbeennamedCyphogastracalepyga。

EachmorningafteranearlybreakfastIwanderedbymyselfintotheforest，whereIfounddelightfuloccupationincapturingthelargeandhandsomebutterflies，whichweretolerablyabundant，andmostofthemnewtome；forIwasnowupontheconfinesoftheMoluccasandNewGuinea，——aregiontheproductionsofwhichwerethenamongthemostpreciousandrareinthecabinetsofEurope。Heremyeyeswerefeastedforthefirsttimewithsplendidscarletloriesonthewing，aswellasbythesightofthatmostimperialbutterfly，the"Priamus"ofcollectors，oracloselyalliedspecies，butflyingsohighthatIdidnotsucceedincapturingaspecimen。Oneofthemwasbroughtmeinabamboo，boredupwithalotofbeetles，andofcoursetorntopieces。Theprincipaldrawbackoftheplaceforacollectoristhewantofgoodpaths，andthedreadfullyruggedcharacterofthesurface，requiringtheattentiontobesocontinuallydirectedtosecuringafooting，astomakeitverydifficulttocaptureactivewingedthings，whopassoutofreachwhileoneisglancingtoseethatthenextstepmaynotplungeoneintoachasmoroveraprecipice。Anotherinconvenienceisthattherearenorunningstreams，therockbeingofsoporousanaturethatthesurface-

watereverywherepenetratesitsfissures；atleastsuchisthecharacteroftheneighbourhoodwevisited，theonlywaterbeingsmallspringstricklingoutclosetothesea-beach。

IntheforestsofKe，arborealLiliaceaeandPandanaceaeabound，andgiveacharactertothevegetationinthemoreexposedrockyplaces。Flowerswerescarce，andtherewerenotmanyorchids，butInoticedthefinewhitebutterfly-orchis，Phalaenopsisgrandiflora，oraspeciescloselyalliedtoit。Thefreshnessandvigourofthevegetationwasverypleasing，andonsuchanaridrockysurfacewasasureindicationofaperpetuallyhumidclimate。Tallcleantrunks，manyofthembuttressed，andimmensetreesofthefigfamily，withaerialrootsstretchingoutandinterlacingandmattedtogetherforfiftyorahundredfeetabovetheground，werethecharacteristicfeatures；andtherewasanabsenceofthornyshrubsandpricklyrattans，whichwouldhavemadethesewildsverypleasanttoroamin，haditnotbeenforthesharphoneycombedrocksalreadyalludedto。Indampplacesafineundergrowthofbroadleavedherbaceousplantswasfound，aboutwhichswarmedlittlegreenlizards，withtailsofthemost"heavenlyblue，"twistinginandoutamongthestalksandfoliagesoactivelythatIoftencaughtglimpsesoftheirtailsonly，whentheystartledmebytheirresemblancetosmallsnakes。

Almosttheonlysoundsintheseprimevalwoodsproceededfromtwobirds，theredlories，whouttershrillscreamslikemostoftheparrottribe，andthelargegreennutmeg-pigeon，whosevoiceiseitheraloudanddeepboom，liketwonotesstruckuponaverylargegong，orsometimesaharshtoad-likecroak，altogetherpeculiarandremarkable。Onlytwoquadrupedsaresaidbythenativestoinhabittheisland——awildpigandaCuscus，orEasternopossum，ofneitherofwhichcouldIobtainspecimens。

Theinsectsweremoreabundant，andveryinteresting。OfbutterfliesIcaughtthirty-fivespecies，mostofthemnewtome，andmanyquiteunknowninEuropeancollections。AmongthemwasthefineyellowandblackPapilioeuchenor，ofwhichbutfewspecimenshadbeenpreviouslycaptured，andseveralotherhandsomebutterfliesoflargesize，aswellassomebeautifullittle"blues，"andsomebrilliantdayflyingmoths。Thebeetletribewerelessabundant，yetIobtainedsomeveryfineandrarespecies。OntheleavesofaslendershrubinanoldclearingI

foundseveralfineblueandblackbeetlesofthegenusEupholus，whichalmostrivalinbeauty-thediamondbeetlesofSouthAmerica。Somecocoa-nutpalmsinblossomonthebeachwerefrequentedbyafinegreenfloralbeetle(Lomapterawhich，whentheflowerswereshaken，flewofflikeasmallswarmofbees。I

gotoneofourcrewtoclimbupthetree，andhebroughtmeagoodnumberinhishand；andseeingtheywerevaluable，Isenthimupagainwithmynettoshaketheflowersinto，andthussecuredalargequantity。Mybestcapture，however，wasthesuperbinsectoftheBuprestisfamily，alreadymentionedashavingbeenobtainedfromthenatives，whotoldmetheyfounditinrottentreesinthemountains。

Intheforestitselftheonlycommonandconspicuouscoleopteraweretwotigerbeetles。One，Therateslabiata，wasmuchlargerthanourgreentigerbeetle，ofapurpleblackcolour，withgreenmetallicglosses，andthebroadupperlipofabrightyellow。Itwasalwaysfounduponfoliage，generallyofbroad-leanedherbaceousplants，andindampandgloomysituations，takingfrequentshortflightsfromleaftoleaf，andpreservinganalertattitude，asifalwayslookingoutforitsprey。Itsvicinitycouldbeimmediatelyascertained，oftenbeforeitwasseen，byaverypleasantodour，likeottoofroses，whichitseemstoemitcontinually，andwhichmayprobablybeattractivetothesmallinsectsonwhichitfeeds。Theother，Tricondylaaptera，isoneofthemostcuriousformsinthefamilyoftheCicindelidae，andisalmostexclusivelyconfinedtotheMalayislands。Inshapeitresemblesaverylargeant，morethananinchlong，andofapurpleblackcolour。Likeanantalsoitiswingless，andisgenerallyfoundascendingtrees，passingaroundthetrunksinaspiraldirectionwhenapproached，toavoidcapture，sothatitrequiresasuddenrunandactivefingerstosecureaspecimen。

Thisspeciesemitstheusualfetidodourofthegroundbeetles。

Mycollectionsduringourfourdays\'stayatKewereasfollow：——

Birds，13species；insects，194species；and3kindsofland-

shells。

Therearetwokindsofpeopleinhabitingtheseislands——theindigenes，whohavethePapuancharactersstronglymarked，andwhoarepagans；andamixedrace，whoarenominallyMahometans，andwearcottonclothing，whiletheformeruseonlyawaistclothofcottonorbark。TheseMahometansaresaidtohavebeendrivenoutofBandabytheearlyEuropeansettlers。Theywereprobablyabrownrace，morealliedtotheMalays，andtheirmixeddescendantshereexhibitgreatvariationsofcolour，hair，andfeatures，graduatingbetweentheMalayandPapuantypes。ItisinterestingtoobservetheinfluenceoftheearlyPortuguesetradewiththesecountriesinthewordsoftheirlanguage，whichstillremaininuseevenamongtheseremoteandsavageislanders。

"Lenco"forhandkerchief，and"faca"forknife，arehereusedtotheexclusionoftheproperMalayterms。ThePortugueseandSpaniardsweretrulywonderfulconquerorsandcolonizers。Theyeffectedmorerapidchangesinthecountriestheyconqueredthananyothernationsofmoderntimes，resemblingtheRomansintheirpowerofimpressingtheirownlanguage，religion，andmannersonrodeandbarbaroustribes。

ThestrikingcontrastofcharacterbetweenthesepeopleandtheMalaysisexemplifiedinmanylittletraits。OnedaywhenIwasramblingintheforest，anoldmanstoppedtolookatmecatchinganinsect。HestoodveryquiettillIhadpinnedandputitawayinmycollectingbox，whenhecouldcontainhimselfnolonger，butbentalmostdouble，andenjoyedaheartyroaroflaughter。

Everyonewillrecognisethisasatruenegrotrait。AMalaywouldhavestared，andaskedwithatoneofbewildermentwhatI

wasdoing，foritisbutlittleinhisnaturetolaugh，neverheartily，andstilllessatorinthepresenceofastranger，towhom，however，hisdisdainfulglancesorwhisperedremarksarelessagreeablethanthemostboisterousopenexpressionofmerriment。Thewomenherewerenotsomuchfrightenedatstrangers，ormadetokeepthemselvessomuchsecludedasamongtheMalayraces；thechildrenweremoremerryandhadthe"niggergrin，"whilethenoisyconfusionoftonguesamongthemen，andtheirexcitementonveryordinaryoccasions，arealtogetherremovedfromthegeneraltaciturnityandreserveoftheMalay。

ThelanguageoftheKepeopleconsistsofwordsofone，two，orthreesyllablesinaboutequalproportions，andhasmanyaspiratedandafewgutturalsounds。Thedifferentvillageshaveslightdifferencesofdialect，buttheyaremutuallyintelligible，and，exceptinwordsthathaveevidentlybeenintroducedduringalong-continuedcommercialintercourse，seemtohavenoaffinitywhateverwiththeMalaylanguages。

Jan。6th-Thesmallboatsbeingfinished，wesailedforAruat4

P。M。，andaswelefttheshoresofKehadalineviewofitsruggedandmountainouscharacter；rangesofhills，threeorfourthousandfeethigh，stretchingsouthwardsasfarastheeyecouldreach，everywherecoveredwithalofty，dense，andunbrokenforest。Wehadverylightwinds，anditthereforetookusthirtyhourstomakethepassageofsixtymilestothelow，orflat，butequallyforest-coveredAruIslands，whereweanchoredintheharbourofDobboatnineintheeveningofthenextday。

Myfirstvoyageinapraubeingthussatisfactorilyterminated，I

must，beforetakingleaveofitforsomemonths，beartestimonytothemeritsofthequeerold-worldvessel。Settingasideallideasofdanger，whichisprobably，afterall，notmorethaninanyothercraft，ImustdeclarethatIhavenever，eitherbeforeorsince，madeatwentydays\'voyagesopleasantly，orperhaps，morecorrectlyspeaking，withsolittlediscomfort。ThisI

attributechieflytohavingmysmallcabinondeck，andentirelytomyself，tohavingmyownservantstowaituponme，andtotheabsenceofallthosemarine-storesmellsofpaint，pitch，tallow，andnewcordage，whicharetomeinsupportable。Somethingisalsotobeputdowntofreedomfromallrestraintofdress，hoursofmeals，&c。，andtothecivilityandobligingdispositionofthecaptain。Ihadagreedtohavemymealswithhim，butwheneverI

wisheditIhadtheminmyownberth，andatwhathoursIfeltinclined。Thecrewwereallcivilandgood-tempered，andwithverylittledisciplineeverythingwentonsmoothly，andthevesselwaskeptverycleanandinprettygoodorder，sothatonthewholeIwasmuchdelightedwiththetrip，andwasinclinedtoratetheluxuriesofthesemi-barbarousprauassurpassingthoseofthemostmagnificentscrew-steamer，thathighestresultofourcivilisation。

CHAPTERXXX

THEARUISLANDS——RESIDENCEINDOBBO

(JANUARYTOMARCH1857。)

Onthe8thofJanuary，1857，IlandedatDobbo，thetradingsettlementoftheBugisandChinese，whoannuallyvisittheAruIslands。ItissituatedonthesmallislandofWamma，uponaspitofsandwhichprojectsouttothenorth，andisjustwideenoughtocontainthreerowsofhouses。Thoughatfirstsightamoststrangeanddesolate-lookingplacetobuildavillageon，ithasmanyadvantages。Thereisaclearentrancefromthewestamongthecoralreefsthatbordertheland，andthereisgoodanchorageforvessels，ononesideofthevillageortheother，inboththeeastandwestmonsoons。Beingfullyexposedtothesea-breezesinthreedirectionsitishealthy，andthesoftsandyheathoffersgreatfacilitiesforhaulingupthepraus，inordertosecurethemfromsea-wormsandpreparethemforthehomewardvoyage。Atitssouthernextremitythesand-bankmergesinthebeachoftheisland，andisbackedbyaluxuriantgrowthofloftyforest。Thehousesareofvarioussizes，butareallbuiltafteronepattern，beingmerelylargethatchedsheds，asmallportionofwhich，nexttheentrance，isusedasadwelling，whiletherestispartedoft；andoftendividedbyoneortwofloors，inorderbettertostowawaymerchandiseandnativeproduce。

Aswehadarrivedearlyintheseason，mostofthehouseswereempty，andtheplacelookeddesolateintheextreme——thewholeoftheinhabitantswhoreceivedusonourlandingamountingtoabouthalf-a-dozenBugisandChinese。Ourcaptain，HerrWarzbergen，hadpromisedtoobtainahouseforme，butunforeseendifficultiespresentedthemselves。Onewhichwastolethadnoroof；andtheowner，whowasbuildingitonspeculation，couldnotpromisetofinishitinlessthanamonth。Another，ofwhichtheownerwasdead，andwhichImightthereforetakeundisputedpossessionofasthefirstcomer，wantedconsiderablerepairs，andnoonecouldbefoundtodothework，althoughaboutfourtimesitsvaluewasoffered。Thecaptain，therefore，recommendedmetotakepossessionofaprettygoodhousenearhisown，whoseownerwasnotexpectedforsomeweeks；andasIwasanxioustobeonshore，Iimmediatelyhaditclearedout，andbyeveninghadallmythingshoused，andwasregularlyinstalledasaninhabitantofDobbo。Ihadbroughtwithmeacanechair，andafewlightboards，whichweresoonriggedupintoatableandshelves。A

broadbamboobenchservedassofaandbedstead，myboxeswereconvenientlyarranged，mymatsspreadonthefloor，awindowcutinthepalm-leafwalltolightmytable，andthoughtheplacewasasmiserableandgloomyashedascouldbeimagined，IfeltascontentedasifIhadobtainedawell-furnishedmansion，andlookedforwardtoamonth\'sresidenceinitwithunmixedsatisfaction。

Thenextmorning，afteranearlybreakfast，IsetofftoexplorethevirginforestsofAru，anxioustosetmymindatrestastothetreasurestheywerelikelytoyield，andtheprobablesuccessofmylong-meditatedexpedition。Alittlenativeimpwasourguide，seducedbythegiftofaGermanknife，valuethree-

halfpence，andmyMacassarboyBaderoonbroughthischoppertoclearthepathifnecessary。

Wehadtowalkabouthalfamilealongthebeach，thegroundbehindthevillagebeingmostlyswampy，andthenturnedintotheforestalongapathwhichleadstothenativevillageofWamma，aboutthreemilesoffontheothersideoftheisland。Thepathwasanarrowone，andverylittleused，oftenswampyandobstructedbyfallentrees，sothatafteraboutamilewelostitaltogether，ourguidehavingturnedback，andwewereobligedtofollowhisexample。Inthemeantime，however，Ihadnotbeenidle，andmyday\'scapturesdeterminedthesuccessofmyjourneyinanentomologicalpointofview。Ihadtakenaboutthirtyspeciesofbutterflies，morethanIhadevercapturedinadaysinceleavingtheprolificbanksoftheAmazon，andamongthemweremanymostrareandbeautifulinsects，hithertoonlyknownbyafewspecimensfromNewGuinea。Thelargeandhandsomespectrebutterfly，Hestiadurvillei；thepale-wingedpeacockbutterfly，Drusillacatops；andthemostbrilliantandwonderfuloftheclear-wingedmoths，Cocytiadurvillei，wereespeciallyinteresting，aswell，asseverallittle"blues，"equallinginbrilliancyandbeautyanythingthebutterflyworldcanproduce。

IntheothergroupsofinsectsIwasnotsosuccessful，butthiswasnottobewonderedatinamereexploringramble，whenonlywhatismostconspicuousandnovelattractstheattention。

Severalprettybeetles，asuperb"bug，"andafewniceland-

shellswereobtained，andIreturnedintheafternoonwellsatisfiedwithmyfirsttrialofthepromisedland。

Thenexttwodaysweresowetandwindythattherewasnogoingout；butonthesucceedingonethesunshonebrightly，andIhadthegoodfortunetocaptureoneofthemostmagnificentinsectstheworldcontains，thegreatbird-wingedbutterfly，OrnithopteraPoseidon。ItrembledwithexcitementasIsawitcomingmajesticallytowardsme，andcouldhardlybelieveIhadreallysucceededinmystroketillIhadtakenitoutofthenetandwasgazing，lostinadmiration，atthevelvetblackandbrilliantgreenofitswings，seveninchesacross，itsbolderbody，andcrimsonbreast。ItistrueIhadseensimilarinsectsincabinetsathome，butitisquiteanotherthingtocapturesuchoneself-tofeelitstrugglingbetweenone\'sfingers，andtogazeuponitsfreshandlivingbeauty，abrightgemshirringoutamidthesilentgloomofadarkandtangledforest。ThevillageofDobboheldthateveningatleastonecontentedman。

Jan。26th——Havingnowbeenhereafortnight，Ibegantounderstandalittleoftheplaceanditspeculiarities。Prauscontinuallyarrived，andthemerchantpopulationincreasedalmostdaily。Everytwoorthreedaysafreshhousewasopened，andthenecessaryrepairsmade。Ineverydirectionmenwerebringinginpoles，bamboos，rattans，andtheleavesofthenipapalmtoconstructorrepairthewalls，thatch，doors，andshuttersoftheirhouses，whichtheydowithgreatcelerity。SomeofthearrivalswereMacassarmenorBugis，butmorefromthesmallislandofGoram，attheeastendofCeram，whoseinhabitantsarethepettytradersofthefarEast。ThenthenativesofArucomeinfromtheothersideoftheislands(calledhere"blakangtana，"or"backofthecountry")withtheproducetheyhavecollectedduringtheprecedingsixmonths，andwhichtheynowselltothetraders，tosomeofwhomtheyaremostlikelyindebt。

Almostall，orImaysafelysayall，thenewarrivalspaymeavisit，toseewiththeirowneyestheunheard-ofphenomenonofapersoncometostayatDobbowhodoesnottrade！Theyhavetheirownideasoftheusesthatmaypossiblybemadeofstuffedbirds，beetles，andshellswhicharenottherightshells——thatis，"mother-of-pearl。"Theyeverydaybringmedeadandbrokenshells，suchaslcanpickupbyhundredsonthebeach，andseemquitepuzzledanddistressedwhenIdeclinethem。If，however，thereareanysnailshellsamongalot，Itakethem，andaskformore——aprincipleofselectionsoutterlyunintelligibletothem，thattheygiveitupindespair，orsolvetheproblembyimputinghiddenmedicalvirtuetothosewhichtheyseemepreservesocarefully。

ThesetradersarealloftheMalayrace，oramixtureofwhichMalayisthechefingredient，withtheexceptionofafewChinese。ThenativesofAru，ontheotherhand，are，Papuans，withblackorsootybrownskims，woollyorfrizzlyhair，thick-

ridgedprominentnoses，andratherslenderlimbs。Mostofthemwearnothingbutawaist-cloth，andafewofthemmaybeseenalldaylongwanderingaboutthehalf-desertedstreetsofDobboofferingtheirlittlebitofmerchandiseforsale。