第18章

Buttheveryargumentswhichhavebeenusedtoprovethatthecountrywillbeultimatelycrushedbythedebt，arethosewhichI

shouldusetoprovethatitwillnotbecrushed。AcomparisonhasmorethanoncebeenmadebetweenthemannerinwhichourdebtwasmadeandthatinwhichthedebtoftheUnitedStatesisnowbeingcreated；andthegreatpointraisedinourfavoris，thatwhilewewereborrowingmoneywewerealsotaxingourselves，andthatweraisedasmuchbytaxesaswedidbyloans。ButitistooearlyinthedaytodenytotheAmericansthecreditwhichwethustaketoourselves。Wewereatax-payingnationwhenwecommencedthosewarswhichmadeourgreatloansnecessary，andonlywentoninthatpracticewhichwashabitualtous。IdonotthinkthattheAmericanscouldhavetaxedthemselveswithgreateralacritythantheyhaveshown。Letuswait，atanyrate，tilltheyshallhavehadtimefortheoperation，beforeweblamethemfornotmakingit。ItisthenarguedthatweinEnglanddidnotborrownearlysofastastheyhaveborrowedintheStates。Thatistrue。Butitmustberememberedthatthedimensionsandproportionsofwarsnowareinfinitelygreaterthantheywerewhenwebegantoborrow。Doesanyoneimaginethatwewouldnothaveborrowedfaster，ifbyfasterborrowingwecouldhaveclosedthewarmorespeedily？Thingsgofasternowthantheydidthen。Borrowingforthesakeofawarmaybeabadthingtodo，asalsoitmaybeagoodthing；butifitbedoneatall，itshouldbesodoneastobringthewartotheendwithwhatgreatestdispatchmaybepossible。

Theonlyfaircomparison，asitseemstome，whichcanbedrawnbetweenthetwocountrieswithreferencetotheirdebts，andtheconditionofeachunderitsdebt，shouldbemadetodependontheamountofthedebtandprobableabilityofthecountrytobearthatburden。Theamountofthedebtmustbecalculatedbytheinterestpayableonitratherthanbythefiguresrepresentingtheactualsumdue。IfwedebittheUnitedStatesgovernmentwithsevenpercent。

onallthemoneyborrowedbythem，andpresumethatamounttohavereachedinJuly，1863，thesumnamedbyMr。Spaulding，theywillthenhaveloadedthemselveswithanannualchargeof16，800，000

poundssterling。Itwillhavebeenanimmenseachievementtohaveaccomplishedinsoshortatime，butitwillbynomeansequaltheannualsumwithwhichwearecharged。And，moreover，thecomparisonwillhavebeenmadeinamannerthatishardlyfairtotheAmericans。Wepayourcreditorsthreepercent。nowthatwehavearrangedouraffairs，andhavesettleddownintotherespectablepositionofanoldgentlemanwhoseestates，thoughdeeplymortgaged，arenotovermortgaged。Butwedidnotgetourmoneyatthreepercent。whileourwarswereonhandandthereyetexistedsomedoubtastothemannerinwhichtheymightbeterminated。

Thisattempt，however，atguessingwhatmaybetheprobableamountofthedebtatthecloseofthewarisabsolutelyfutile。Noonecanasyetconjecturewhenthewarmaybeover，orwhatcollateralexpensesmayattenditsclose。Itmaybethecasethatthegovernment，infixingsomeboundarybetweenthefutureUnitedStatesandthefutureSouthernConfederacy，willbecalledontoadvanceaverylargesumofmoneyascompensationforslaveswhoshallhavebeenliberatedintheborderStates，orhavebeensweptdownSouthintothecottonregionswiththeretreatinghordesoftheSouthernarmy。Thetotalofthebillcannotbereckonedupwhiletheworkisstillunfinished。But，afterall，thatquestionastotheamountofthebillisnottousthequestionofthegreatestinterest。

Whetherthedebtshallamounttotwo，orthree，oreventofourhundredmillionssterling；whetheritremainfixedatitspresentmodestdimensions，orswellitselfouttothemagnificentproportionsofourBritishdebt；willtheresourcesofthecountryenableittobearsuchaburden？WillitbefoundthattheAmericanssharewithusthatelasticpowerofendurancewhichhasenabledustobearaweightthatwouldhaveruinedanyotherpeopleofthesamenumber？Havetheythethewsandmuscles，theenergyandendurance，thepowerofcarryingwhichwepossess？Theyhavegotourbloodintheirveins，andhavethesequalitiesgonewiththeblood？Itisoflittleavaileithertousortothetruththatwecanshowsomedifferencebetweenourpositionandtheirpositionwhichmayseemtobeinourfavor。Theydoubtlesscouldshowotherpointsofdifferenceontheotherside。Withus，intheearlyyearsofthiscentury，itwasacontestforlifeanddeath，inwhichwecouldnotstoptocountthecost——inwhichwebelievedthatwewerefightingforallthatwecaredtocallourown，andinwhichwewereresolvedthatwewouldnotbebeatenaslongaswehadamantofightandaguineatospend。Fightinginthismindwewon。HadwefoughtinanyothermindIthinkImaysaythatweshouldnothavewon。TotheAmericansoftheNorthernStatesthisalsoisacontestforlifeanddeath。Iwillnotherestaytoarguewhetherthisneedhavebeenso。Ithinktheyareright；butthisatleastmustbeaccordedtothem——that，havinggoneintothismatterofcivilwar，itbehovesthemtofinishitwithcredittothemselves。TherearemanyEnglishmenwhothinkthatwewerewrongtoundertaketheFrenchwar；butthereis，Itakeit，noEnglishmanwhothinksthatweoughttohaveallowedourselvestobebeatenwhenwehadundertakenit。

TotheAmericansitisnowacontestoflifeanddeath。Theyalsocannotstoptocountthecost，Theyalsowillgoonaslongastheyhaveadollartospendoramantofight。

Itappearsthatwewerepayingfourteenmillionsayearinterestonournationaldebtintheyear1796。ItakethisstatementfromanarticleinTheTimes，inwhichthequestionofthefinancesoftheUnitedStatesishandled。Butourpopulationin1796wasonlysixteenmillions。IestimatethepopulationoftheNorthernsectionoftheUnitedStates，astheStateswillbeafterthewar，attwenty-twomillions。Inthearticlealludedto，theseNorthernAmericansarenowstatedtobetwentymillions。Ifthenwe，in1796，couldpayfourteenmillionsayearwithapopulationofsixteenmillions，theUnitedStates，withapopulationoftwentyortwenty-twomillions，willbeabletopaythesixteenorseventeenmillionssterlingofinterestwhichwillbecomeduefromthem，iftheircircumstancesofpaymentareasgoodaswereours。Theycandothat，andmorethanthat，iftheyhavethesamemeanspermanaswehad。Andasthemeanspermanresolvesitselfatlastintothelaborperman，itmaybesaidthattheycanpaywhatwecouldpay，iftheycanandwillworkashardaswecouldanddidwork。Thatwhichdidnotcrushuswillnotcrushthem，iftheirfutureenergybeequaltoourpastenergy。

AndonthisquestionofenergyIthinkthatthereisnoneedfordoubt。Takingmanformanandmillionformillion，theAmericansareequaltotheEnglishinintellectandindustry。Theycreatewealth，atanyrate，asfastaswehavedone。Theydeveloptheirresources，andopenoutthecurrentsoftrade，withanenergyequaltoourown。Theyarealwaysatwork——improving，utilizing，andcreating。Austria，asItakeit，issuccumbingtomonetarydifficulties，notbecauseshehasbeenextravagant，butbecauseshehasbeenslowatprogress；becauseithasbeentheworkofherrulerstorepressratherthanencouragetheenergiesofherpeople；

becauseshedoesnotimprove，utilize，andcreate。EnglandhasmasteredhermonetarydifficultiesbecausethegeniusofhergovernmentandherpeoplehasbeenexactlyoppositetothegeniusofAustria。AndtheStatesofAmericawillmastertheirmoneydifficulties，becausetheyarebornofEngland，andarenotbornofAustria。What！Shalloureldestchildbecomebankruptinitsfirsttradedifficulty；beutterlyruinedbyitsfirstlittlecommercialembarrassment！Thechildbearsmuchtoostrongaresemblancetoitsparentformetothinkso。

CHAPTERXIII。

THEPOST-OFFICE。

AnyEnglishmanorFrenchmanresidingintheAmericanStatescannotfailtobestruckwiththeinferiorityofthepost-officearrangementsinthatcountrytothosebywhichtheyareaccommodatedintheirowncountry。Ihavenotbeenaresidentinthecountry，andasatravelermightprobablyhavepassedthesubjectwithoutspecialremark，wereitnotthattheserviceofthepost-officehasbeenmyownprofessionformanyyears。Icouldthereforehardlyfailtoobservethingswhichtoanothermanwouldhavebeenofnomaterialmoment。AtfirstIwasinclinedtoleanheavilyinmyjudgmentuponthedeficienciesofadepartmentwhichmustbeofprimaryimportancetoacommercialnation。Itseemedthatamongapeoplesointelligent，andsoquickinallenterprisesoftrade，awell-arrangedpost-officewouldhavebeenheldtobeabsolutelynecessary，andthatalldifficultieswouldhavebeenmadetosuccumbintheireffortstoputthatestablishment，ifnoother，uponaproperfooting。ButasIlookedintothematter，andinbecomingacquaintedwiththecircumstancesofthepost-officelearnedtheextentofthedifficultiesabsolutelyexisting，Ibegantothinkthataverygreatdealhadbeendone，andthatthefault，astothatwhichhadbeenleftundone，restednotwiththepost-officeofficials，butwasattributablepartlytopoliticalcausesaltogetheroutsidethepost-office，andpartly——perhapschiefly——tothenatureofthecountryitself。

ItisIthinkundoubtedlytruethattheamountofaccommodationgivenbythepost-officeoftheStatesissmall，ascomparedwiththataffordedinsomeothercountries，andthatthataccommodationislessenedbydelaysanduncertainty。Thepointwhichfirststruckmewastheinconvenienthoursatwhichmailswerebroughtinanddispatched。HereinEnglanditistheobjectofourpost-officetocarrythebulkofourlettersatnight；todeliverthemasearlyaspossibleinthemorning，andtocollectthemandtakethemawayfordispatchaslateasmaybeintheday；sothatthemerchantmayreceivehislettersbeforethebeginningofhisdaybusiness，anddispatchthemafteritsclose。Thebulkofourlettersishandledinthismanner，andtheadvantageofsuchanarrangementismanifest。ButitseemedthatintheStatesnosuchpracticeprevailed。Lettersarrivedatanyhourinthedaymiscellaneously，andweredispatchedatanyhour，andIfoundthatthepostmasteratonetowncouldnevertellmewithcertaintywhenletterswouldarriveatanother。Ifthetownsweredistant，Iwouldbetoldthattheconveyancemighttakeabouttwoorthreedays；iftheywerenear，thatmyletterwouldgettohand“sometimeto-morrow。“I

ascertained，moreover，bypainfulexperiencethatthewholeofamailwouldnotalwaysgoforwardbythefirstdispatch。AsregardedmyselfthishadreferencechieflytoEnglishlettersandnewspapers。

“Onlyapartofthemailhascome，“theclerkwouldtellme。Withustheownersofthatpartwhichdidnot“come，“wouldconsiderthemselvesgreatlyaggrievedandmakeloudcomplaint。ButintheStatescomplaintsmadeagainstofficialdepartmentsareheldtobeoflittlemoment。

LettersalsointheStatesaresubjecttogreatdelaysbyirregularitiesonrailways。Onetraindoesnothitthetownofitsdestinationbeforeanothertrain，towhichitisnominallyfitted，hasbeenstartedonitsjourney。Themailtrainsarenotboundtowait；andthus，inthelargecities，fardistantfromNewYork，greatirregularityprevails。ItisIthinkowingtothis——atanyratepartlytothis——thatthesystemoftelegraphinghasbecomesoprevalent。Itisnaturalthatthisshouldbesobetweentownswhichareintheduecourseofpostperhapsforty-eighthoursasunder；buttheuncertaintyofthepostincreasesthehabit，totheprofitofcourseofthecompanieswhichownthewires，buttothemanifestlossofthepost-office。

ButthedeficiencywhichstruckmemostforciblyintheAmericanpost-office，wastheabsenceofanyrecognizedofficialdeliveryofletters。TheUnitedStatespost-officedoesnotassumetoitselfthedutyoftakingletterstothehousesofthoseforwhomtheyareintended，butholdsitselfashavingcompletedtheworkforwhichtheoriginalpostagehasbeenpaid，whenithasbroughtthemtothewindowofthepost-officeofthetowntowhichtheyareaddressed。

Itistruethatinmostlargetowns——thoughbynomeansinall——aseparatearrangementismadebywhichadeliveryisaffordedtothosewhoarewillingtopayafurthersumforthatfurtherservice；

buttherecognizedofficialmodeofdeliveryisfromtheofficewindow。Themerchantsandpersonsintradehaveboxesatthewindows，forwhichtheypay。Otherold-establishedinhabitantsintown，andpersonsinreceiptofaconsiderablecorrespondence，receivetheirlettersbythesubsidiarycarriersandpayforthemseparately。Butthepoorerclassesofthecommunity，thosepersonsamongwhichitisofsuchparamountimportancetoincreasetheblessingofletterwriting，obtaintheirlettersfromthepost-

officewindows。

Ineachofthesecasesthepracticeactstotheprejudiceofthedepartment。Inordertoescapethetaxondelivery，whichvariesfromtwocentstoonecentaletter，allmenintrade，andmanywhoarenotintrade，holdofficeboxes；consequentlyimmensespaceisrequired。ThespacegivenatChicago，bothtothepublicwithoutandtotheofficialwithin，forsuchdelivery，ismorethanfourtimesthatrequiredatLiverpoolforthesamepurpose。ButLiverpoolisthreetimesthesizeofChicago。Thecorpsofclerksrequiredforthewindowdeliveryisverygreat，andthewholeaffairiscumbrousintheextreme。Thelettersatmostofficesaregivenoutthroughlittlewindows，towhichtheinquirerisobligedtostoop。Therehefindshimselfoppositetoapaneofglasswithalittlehole，andwhentheclerkwithinshakeshisheadathim，herarelybelievesbutwhathislettersarethereifhecouldonlyreachthem。Butinthesecondcase，thetaxonthedelivery，whichisintendedsimplytopaythewagesofthemenwhotakethemout，ispaidwithabadgrace；itrobstheletterofitscharm，andforcesittopresentitselfintheguiseofaburden:itmakesthatdisagreeablewhichforitsownsakethepost-officeshouldstriveineverywaytomakeagreeable。Thispractice，moreover，operatesasadirectpreventiontoaclassofcorrespondencewhichfurnishesinEnglandalargeproportionoftherevenueofthepost-office。

Mercantilehousesinourlargecitiessendoutthousandsoftradecirculars，payingpostageonthem；butsuchcircularswouldnotbereceived，eitherinEnglandorelsewhere，ifademandforpostageweremadeontheirdelivery。Whodoesnotreceivethesecircularsinourcountrybythedozen，consigningthemgenerallytothewaste-

paperbasket，afteramostcursoryinspection？Asregardsthesender，thetransactionseemstousoftentobeveryvain；butthepost-officegetsitspenny。SoalsowouldtheAmericanpost-officegetitsthreecents。

ButthemainobjectioninmyeyestotheAmericanpost-officesystemisthis，thatitisnotbroughtnearertothepoorerclasses。

EverybodywritesorcanwriteinAmerica，andthereforethecorrespondenceoftheirmillionsshouldbe，millionformillion，atanyrateequaltoours。Butitisnotso；andthisIthinkcomesfromthefactthatcommunicationbypost-officeisnotmadeeasytothepeoplegenerally。Suchcommunicationisnotfoundtobeeasybyamanwhohastoattendatapost-officewindowonthechanceofreceivingaletter。Whennoarrangementmorecomfortablethanthatisprovided，thepost-officewillbeusedforthenecessitiesofletterwriting，butwillnotbeesteemedasaluxury。Andthusnotonlydothepeopleloseacomfortwhichtheymightenjoy，butthepost-officealsolosesthatrevenuewhichitmightmake。

IhavesaidthatthecorrespondencecirculatingintheUnitedStatesislessthanthatoftheUnitedKingdom。Inmakinganycomparisonbetweenthem，Iamobligedtoarriveatfacts，orratherattheprobabilitiesoffacts，inasomewhatcircuitousmode，astheAmericanshavekeptnoaccountofthenumberofletterswhichpassthroughtheirpost-officesinayear；wecan，however，makeanestimate，which，ifincorrect，shallnotatanyratebeincorrectagainstthem。ThegrosspostalrevenueoftheUnitedStatesfortheyearendedJune30th，1861，wasinroundfigures1，700，000l。Thiswastheamountactuallycashed，exclusiveofasumof140，000l。paidtothepost-officebythegovernmentforthecarriageofwhatiscalledinthatcountryfreemailmatter；otherwise，books，letters，andparcelsfrankedbymembersofCongress。ThegrosspostalrevenueoftheUnitedKingdomwasinthelastyear，inroundfigures，3，358，000l。，exclusiveofasumof179，000l。claimedasearnedforcarryingofficialpostage，andalsoexclusiveof127，866l。，thatbeingtheamountofmoneyordercommissions，whichinthiscountryisconsideredapartofthepost-officerevenue。IntheUnitedStatesthereisatpresentnomoneyorderoffice。IntheUnitedKingdomthesumof3，358，000l。wasearnedbytheconveyanceanddeliveryof593，000，000ofletters，73，000，000ofnewspapers，12，000，000ofbooks。WhatnumberofeachwasconveyedthroughthepostintheUnitedStateswehavenomeansofknowing；butpresumingtheaveragerateofpostageoneachletterintheStatestobethesameasitisinEngland，andpresumingalsothatletters，newspapers，andbookscirculatedinthesameproportionthereastheydowithus，thesumabovenamedof1，700，000l。willhavebeenearnedbycarryingabout300，000，000ofletters。ButtheaveragerateofpostageintheStatesisinfacthigherthanitisinEngland。Theordinarysinglerateofpostagethereisthreecents，orthreehalf-pence，whereaswithusitisapenny；andifthreehalf-pencemightbetakenastheaveragerateintheUnitedStates，thenumberofletterswouldbereducedfrom300，000，000to200，000，000ayear。Thereis，however，aclassofletterswhichintheStatesarepassedthroughthepost-officeattherateofonehalf-pennyaletter，whereasthereisnorateofpostagewithuslessthanapenny。Takingthesehalf-pennylettersintoconsideration，IamdisposedtoregardtheaveragerateofAmericanpostageataboutfivefarthings，whichwouldgivethenumberoflettersat250，000，000。Weshallatanyratebesafeinsayingthatthenumberisconsiderablylessthan300，000，000，andthatitdoesnotamounttohalfthenumbercirculatedwithus。Butthedifferencebetweenourpopulationandtheirpopulationisnotgreat。

ThepopulationoftheStatesduringtheyearinquestionwasabout27，000，000，exclusiveofslaves，andthatoftheBritishIsleswasabout29，000，000。NodoubtintheyearnamedthecorrespondenceoftheStateshadbeensomewhatdisturbedbytherebellion；butthatdisturbance，uptotheendofJune，1861，hadbeenverytrifling。

ThedivisionoftheSouthernfromtheNorthernStates，asfarasthepost-officewasconcerned，didnottakeplacetilltheendofMay，l861；andthereforebutonemonthintheyearwasaffectedbytheactualsecessionoftheSouth。ThegrosspostalrevenueoftheStateswhichhavesecededwas，fortheyearpriortosecession，1，200，500dollars，andforthatonemonthofJuneitwouldthereforehavebeenalittleover100，000dollars，or20，000l。Thatsummaythereforebepresumedtohavebeenabstractedbysecessionfromthegrossannualrevenueofthepost-office。Trade，also，wasnodoubtinjuredbythedisturbanceinthecountry，andthecirculationofletterswas，asamatterofcourse，tosomedegreeaffectedbythisinjury；butitseemsthatthegrossrevenueof1861waslessthanthatof1860byonlyonethirty-sixth。Ithink，therefore，thatwemaysay，makingallallowancethatcanbefairlymade，thatthenumberofletterscirculatingintheUnitedKingdomismorethandoublethatwhichcirculates，oreverhascirculated，intheUnitedStates。

Thatthisisso，Iattributenottoanydifferenceinthepeopleofthetwocountries，nottoanaptitudeforletterwritingamonguswhichiswantingwiththeAmericans，buttothegreaterconvenienceandwideraccommodationofourownpost-office。AsIhavebeforestated，andwillpresentlyendeavortoshow，thiswideraccommodationisnotaltogethertheresultofbettermanagementonourpart。Ourcircumstancesasregardsthepost-officehavehadinthemlessofdifficultiesthantheirs。Butithasariseningreatpartfrombettermanagement；andinnothingistheirdeficiencysoconspicuousasintheabsenceofafreedeliveryfortheirletters。

Inorderthattheadvantagesofthepost-officeshouldreachallpersons，thedeliveryoflettersshouldextendnotonlytotowns，buttothecountryalso。InFrancealllettersaredeliveredfree。

Howeverremotemaybethepositionofahouseorcottage，itisnottooremoteforthepostman。Withusalllettersarenotdelivered，buttheexceptionsrefertodistantsolitaryhousesandtolocalitieswhicharealmostwithoutcorrespondence。ButintheUnitedStatesthereisnofreedelivery，andthereisnodeliveryatallexceptinthelargecities。Insmalltowns，invillages，eveninthesuburbsofthelargestcities，nosuchaccommodationisgiven。Whatevermaybethedistance，peopleexpectinglettersmustsendforthemtothepost-office；andtheywhodonotexpectthem，leavetheirlettersuncalledfor。BrotherJonathangoesouttofishintheseespecialwaterswithaverylargenet。Thelittlefishwhichareprofitableslipthrough；butthebigfish，whicharebynomeansprofitable，arecaught——oftenatanexpensegreaterthantheirvalue。

ThereareothersmallersinsuponwhichIcouldputmyfinger——andwoulddosowereIwritinganofficialreportuponthesubjectoftheAmericanpost-office。Inlieuofdoingso，IwillendeavortoexplainhowmuchtheStatesofficehasdoneinthismatterofaffordingpost-officeaccommodation，andhowgreathavebeenthedifficultiesinthewayofpost-officereformersinthatcountry。

Inthefirstplace，whenwecompareourselvestothemwemustrememberthatweliveinatea-cup，andtheyinawashing-tub。Ascomparedwiththemweinhabittownswhichareclosetoeachother。

Ourdistances，ascomparedwiththeirs，arenothing。FromLondontoLiverpoolthelineofrailwayIbelievetraversesabouttwohundredmiles，butthemailtrainwhichconveysthebagsforLiverpoolcarriesthecorrespondenceofprobablyfourorfivemillionsofpersons。ThemailtrainfromNewYorktoBuffalopassesoveraboutfourhundredmiles，andonitsrouteleavesnotonemillion。A

comparisonofthiskindmightbemadewiththesameeffectbetweenanyofourgreatinternalmailroutesandanyoftheirs。

Consequentlytheexpenseofconveyancetothemis，perletter，verymuchgreaterthanwithus，andtheAmericanpost-officeis，asamatterofnecessity，driventoaneconomyintheuseofrailwaysforthepost-officeservicewhichwearenotcalledontopractice。

FromNewYorktoChicagoisnearly1000miles。FromNewYorktoSt。

Louisisover1400。FromNewYorktoNewOrleansis1600miles。I

neednotsaythatinEnglandweknownothingofsuchdistances，andthatthereforeourtaskhasbeencomparativelyeasy。NeverthelesstheStateshavefollowedinourtrack，andhavetakenadvantageofSirRowland\'sHill\'swiseaudacityinthereductionofpostagewithgreaterquicknessthananyothernationbutourown。ThroughalltheStatesletterspassforthreecentsoveradistancelessthan3000miles。Fordistancesabove3000milestherateistencents，orfivepence。ThisincreasedratehasspecialreferencetothemailsforCalifornia，whicharecarrieddailyacrossthewholecontinentatacosttotheStatesgovernmentoftwohundredthousandpoundsayear。

WithusthechiefmailtrainsarelegallyunderthemanagementofthePostmaster-General。Hefixesthehoursatwhichtheyshallstartandarrive，beingofcourseboundbycertainstipulationsastopace。Hecandemandtrainstorunoveranylineatanyhour，andcaninthiswaysecurethepunctualityofmailtransportation。Ofcoursesuchinterferenceonthepartofagovernmentofficialintheworkingofarailwayisattendedwithaveryheavyexpensetothegovernment。ThoughtheBritishpost-officecandemandtheuseoftrainsatanyhour，andasregardsthosetrainscanmakethedispatchofmailsparamounttoallothermatters，theBritishpost-

officecannotfixthepricetobepaidforsuchwork。Thisisgenerallydonebyarbitration，andofcourseforsuchservicesthepaymentisveryhigh。NosuchpracticeprevailsintheStates。Thegovernmenthasnopowerofusingthemaillinesastheyareusedbyourpost-office，norcouldtheexpenseofsuchapracticebeborneornearlybornebytheproceedsoflettersintheStates。

Consequentlythepost-officeisputonaparwithordinarycustomers，andsuchtrainsareusedformailmatterasthedirectorsofeachlinemayseefittouseforothermatter。Henceitoccursthatnooffenseagainstthepost-officeiscommittedwhentheconnectionbetweendifferentmailtrainsisbroken。Thepost-officetakesthebestitcanget，payingasothercustomerspay，andgrumblingasothercustomersgrumblewhentheservicerenderedfallsshortofthatwhichhasbeenpromised。

Itmay，Ithink，easilybeseenthatanysystem，suchasours，carriedacrosssolargeacountry，wouldgoonincreasingincostatanenormousratio。Thegreateristhedistance，thegreateristhedifficultyinsecuringtheproperfittingoffast-runningtrains。

Andmoreover，itmustberememberedthattheAmericanlineshavebeengotuponaverydifferentfootingfromours，atanexpensepermileofprobablylessthanafifthofthatlaidoutonourrailways。

Singlelinesofrailarecommon，evenbetweengreattownswithlargetraffic。Atthepresentmoment，February，1862，theonlyrailwayrunningintoWashington，thatnamelyfromBaltimore，isasinglelineoverthegreaterdistance。Thewholethingisnecessarilyworkedatacheaperratethanwithus；notbecausethepeoplearepoorer，butbecausethedistancesaregreater。Asthisisthecasethroughoutthewholerailwaysystemofthecountry，itcannotbeexpectedthatsuchdispatchandpunctualityshouldbeachievedinAmericaasareachievedhereinEngland，orinFrance。Aspopulationandwealthincreaseitwillcome。InthemeantimethatwhichhasbeenalreadydoneovertheextentofthevastNorthAmericancontinentisverywonderful。Ithink，therefore，thatcomplaintshouldnotbemadeagainsttheWashingtonpost-office，eitheronaccountoftheinconvenienceofthehoursorontheheadofoccasionalirregularity。Somuchhasbeendoneinreducingtheratetothreecents，andingivingadailymailthroughouttheStates，thatthedepartmentshouldbepraisedforenergy，andnotblamedforapathy。

IntheyearendedJune30，1861，thegrossrevenueofthepost-

officeoftheStateswas，asIhavestated，1，700，000l。Inthesameyearitsexpenditurewasinroundfigures2，720，000l。；consequentlytherewasanactualloss，tobemadeupoutofgeneraltaxation，amountingto1，020，000l。IntheaccountsoftheAmericanofficersthisislessenedby140，000l。Thatsumhavingbeenarbitrarilyfixedbythegovernmentastheamountearnedbythepost-officeincarryingfreemailmatter。Wehaveasimilarsystemincomputingthevalueoftheservicerenderedbyourpost-officetothegovernmentincarryinggovernmentdispatches；butwithustheamountnamedasthecompensationdependsontheactualweightcarried。Ifthemattersocarriedbecarriedsolelyonthegovernmentservice，asis，Ibelieve，thecasewithus，anysuchclaimonbehalfofthepost-officeisapparentlyunnecessary。TheCrownworksfortheCrown，astherighthandworksfortheleft。Thepost-officepaysnoratesortaxes，contributesnothingtothepoor，runsitsmailsonturnpikeroadsfreeoftoll，andgivesreceiptsonunstampedpaper。Withusnopaymentisintruthmade，thoughthepost-officeinitsaccountspresumesitselftohavereceivedthemoney；butintheStatesthesumnamedishandedoverbytheStateTreasurytothePost-officeTreasury。AnysuchstatementofcreditdoesnotineffectaltertherealfactthatoveramillionsterlingisrequiredasasubsidybytheAmericanpost-office，inorderthatitmaybeenabledtopayitsway。InestimatingtheexpenditureoftheofficethedepartmentatWashingtondebitsitselfwiththesumspaidfortheoceantransitofitsmails，amountingtosomethingoveronehundredandfiftythousandpounds。Wealsonowdothesame，withthemuchgreatersumpaidbyusforsuchservice，whichnowamountsto949，228l。，ornearlyamillionsterling。Tilllatelythiswasnotpaidoutofthepost-officemoneys，andthepost-officerevenuewasnotdebitedwiththeamount。

Ourgrosspost-officerevenueis，asIhavesaid，3，358，250l。Asbeforeexplained，thisisexclusiveoftheamountearnedbythemoneyorderdepartment，which，thoughmanagedbytheauthoritiesofthepost-office，cannotbecalledapartofthepost-office；andexclusivealsooftheofficialpostage，whichis，infact，neverreceived。TheexpenditureofourBritishpost-office，inclusiveofthesumpaidfortheoceanmailservice，is3，064，527l。；wethereforemakeanetprofitof293，723l。outofthepost-office，ascomparedwithalossof1，020，000l。onthepartoftheUnitedStates。

ButperhapsthegreatestdifficultywithwhichtheAmericanpost-

officeisburdenedisthat“freemailmatter“towhichIhavealluded，forcarryingwhichthepost-officeclaimstoearn140，000l。，andforthecarriageofwhichitmightasfairlyclaimtoearn1，350，000l。，orhalftheamountofitstotalexpenditure，forI

wasinformedbyagentlemanwhoseknowledgeonthesubjectcouldnotbedoubted，thatthefreemailmattersocarriedequaledinbulkandweightallthatothermatterwhichwasnotcarriedfree。TosuchanextenthastheprivilegeoffrankingbeencarriedintheStates！

AllmembersofbothHousesfrankwhattheyplease——forineffecttheprivilegeisstretchedtothatextent。AllPresidentsoftheUnion，pastandpresent，canfrank，asalso，allVice-Presidents，pastandpresent；andthereisaspecialact，enablingthewidowofPresidentPolktofrank。WhyitisthatwidowsofotherPresidentsdonotagitateonthematter，Icannotunderstand。AndalltheSecretariesofStatecanfrank；andeversomanyotherpublicofficers。Thereisnolimitinnumbertotheletterssofranked，andthenuisancehasextendeditselftosohugeasizethatmembersofCongress，ingivingfranks，cannotwritethefranksthemselves。Itisillegalforthemtodeputetootherstheprivilegeofsigningtheirnamesforthispurpose，butitisknownatthepost-officethatitisdone。Buteventhisisnottheworstofit。MembersoftheHouseofRepresentativeshavethepowerofsendingthroughthepostallthosehugebookswhich，withthemaswithus，growoutofparliamentarydebatesandworkingsofcommittees。This，undercertainstipulations，isthecasealsoinEngland；butinEngland，luckily，noonevaluesthem。InAmerica，however，itisnotso。A

voterconsidershimselftobenoticedifhegetsabook；helikestohavethebookbound，andthebiggerthebookmaybe，themorethecomplimentisrelished。Henceitcomestopassthatanenormousquantityofuselessmatterisprintedandbound，onlythatitmaybesentdowntoconstituentsandmakeashowontheparlorshelvesofconstituents\'wives。Thepost-officegroansandbecomesinsolventandthecountrypaysforthepaper，theprinting，andthebinding。

Whilethepublicexpensesofthisnationwereverysmall，therewas，perhaps，noreasonwhyvotersshouldnotthusbeindulged；butnowthematterisdifferent，anditwouldbewellthattheconveyancebypostofthesecongressionallibrariesshouldbebroughttoanend。

Iwasalsoassuredthatmembersveryfrequentlyobtainpermissionfortheprintingofaspeechwhichhasneverbeendelivered——andwhichneverwillbedelivered——inorderthatcopiesmaybecirculatedamongtheirconstituents。ThereisinsuchanarrangementaningenuitywhichispeculiarlyAmericaninitsnature。

Everybodyconcernedisnodoubtcheatedbythesystem。Theconstituentsarecheated；thepublic，whichpays，ischeated；andthepost-officeischeated。ButtheHouseissparedthehearingofthespeech，andtheresultonthewholeisperhapsbeneficial。

Wealso，withinthememoryofmanyofus，hadafrankingprivilege，whichwaspeculiarlyobjectionable，inasmuchasitoperatedtowardgivingafreetransmissionoftheirlettersbyposttotherich，whilenosuchprivilegewaswithinreachofthepoor。ButwithusitneverstretcheditselftosuchanextentasithasnowachievedintheStates。Thenumberoflettersformemberswaslimited。Thewholeaddresswaswrittenbythefrankingmemberhimself，andnotmuchwassentinthiswaythatwasbulky。IamdisposedtothinkthatallgovernmentandcongressionaljobsintheStatesbearthesameproportiontogovernmentandparliamentaryjobswhichhavebeeninvogueamongus。Therehasbeenanunblushingaudacityinthepublicdishonesty——whatImayperhapscalltheStatedishonesty——atWashington，whichIthinkwashardlyeverequaledinLondon。

Bribery，Iknow，wasdisgracefullycurrentinthedaysofWalpole，ofNewcastle，andevenofCastlereagh；socurrent，thatnoEnglishmanhasarighttoholduphisownpastgovernmentasamodelofpurity；butthecorruptionwithusdidblushandendeavortohideitself。Itwasdisgracefultobebribed，ifnotsotoofferbribes。

ButatWashingtoncorruptionhasbeensocommonthatIcanhardlyunderstandhowanyhonestmancanhavehelduphisheadinthevicinityoftheCapitoloroftheStateoffice。

Butthecountryhas，Ithink，becometiredofthis。Hithertoithasbeentoobusyaboutitsmoreimportantconcerns，inextendingcommerce，inmakingrailways，inprovidingeducationforitsyouth，tothinkverymuchofwhatwasbeingdoneatWashington。Whilethetaxeswerelight，andpropertywassecure，whileincreasingpopulationgavedailyincreasingstrengthtothenation，thepeopleasabodywerecontentwiththattheoryofbeinggovernedbytheirlittlemen。Theygaveabadnametopoliticians，andallowedpolitics，astheysay，to“slide。“Butallthiswillbealterednow。Thetremendousexpenditureofthelasttwelvemonthshasalloweddishonestyofsovastagrasptomakeitsravagesinthepublicpocketsthattheevilwillworkitsowncure。Taxeswillbeveryhigh，andthepeoplewillrecognizethenecessityofhavinghonestmentolookafterthem。Thenationcannolongeraffordtobeindifferentaboutitsgovernment，andwillrequiretoknowwhereitsmoneygoes，andwhyitgoes。Thisfrankingprivilegeisalreadydoomed，ifnotalreadydead。WhenIwasinWashington，abillwaspassedthroughtheLowerHousebywhichitwouldbeabolishedaltogether。WhenIleftAmerica，itsfateintheSenatewasstilldoubtful，andIwastoldbymanythatthatbillwouldnotbeallowedtobecomelawwithoutsundryalterations。But，nevertheless，I

regardthefrankingprivilegeasdoomed，andoffertotheWashingtonpost-officeofficialsmybestcongratulationsontheircomingdeliverance。

Thepost-officeintheStatesisalsoburdenedbyanotherterriblepoliticalevil，whichinitselfissoheavythatonewouldatfirstsightdeclareittobeenoughtopreventanythinglikeefficiency。

Thewholeofitsstaffisremovableeveryfourthyear——thatistosay，ontheelectionofeverynewPresident；andaverylargeproportionofitsstaffisthusremovedperiodicallytomakewayforthoseforwhomanewPresidentisboundtoprovide，byreasonoftheirservicesinsendinghimtotheWhiteHouse。Theyhaveservedhim，andhethusrepaysthembythisuseofhispatronageintheirfavor。Atfourhundredandthirty-fourpost-officesintheStates——

thosebeingtheofficestowhichthehighestsalariesareattached——

thePresidenthasthispower，andexercisesitasamatterofcourse。Hehasthesamepowerwithreference，Ibelieve，toalltheappointmentsheldinthepost-officeatWashington。Thispracticeappliesbynomeanstothepost-officeonly。Allthegovernmentclerks——clerksemployedbythecentralgovernmentatWashington——aresubjecttothesamerule。AndtherulehasalsobeenadoptedinthevariousStateswithreferencetoStateoffices。

Toastrangerthispracticeseemssomanifestlyabsurdthathecanhardlyconceiveitpossiblethatagovernmentserviceshouldbeconductedonsuchterms。Hecannot，inthefirstplace，believethatmenofsufficientstandingbeforetheworldcouldbefoundtoacceptofficeundersuchcircumstances；andisledtosurmisethatmenofinsufficientstandingmustbeemployed，andthatthereareotherallurementstotheofficebeyondtheverymoderatesalarieswhichareallowed。Hecannot，moreover，understandhowthedutiescanbeconducted，seeingthatmenmustbecalledontoresigntheirplacesassoonastheyhavelearnedtomakethemselvesuseful。And，finally，heislostinamazementashecontemplatesthisbarefacedprostitutionofthepublicemploytothevilestpurposesofpoliticalmanoeuvring。Withusalsopatronagehasbeenusedforpoliticalpurposes，andtosomesmallextentisstillsoused。Wehavenotyetsufficientlyrecognizedthefactthatinselectingapublicservantnothingshouldberegardedbuttheadvantageoftheserviceforwhichheistobeemployed。Butwenever，inthelowesttimesofourpoliticalcorruption，venturedtothrowoverthequestionofservicealtogether，andtodeclarepubliclythattheoneandonlyresulttobeobtainedbygovernmentemploymentwaspoliticalsupport。IntheStates，politicalcorruptionhasbecomesomuchamatterofcoursethatnoAmericanseemstobestruckwiththefactthatthewholesystemisasystemofrobbery。

Fromsheernecessitysomeoftheoldhandsarekeptonwhenthesechangesaremade。Werethisnotdone，theworkwouldcomeabsolutelytoadeadlock。Butasitis，itmaybeimaginedhowdifficultitmustbeformentocarrythroughanyimprovementsinagreatdepartment，whentheyhaveenteredanofficeundersuchasystem，andareliabletobeexpelledunderthesame。Itisgreatlytothepraiseofthosewhohavebeenallowedtogrowoldintheservicethatsomuchhasbeendone。Nomen，however，aremoreaptatsuchworkthanAmericans，ormoreabletoexertthemselvesattheirposts。Theyarenotidle。Independentlyofanyquestionofremuneration，theyarenotindifferenttothewell-beingoftheworktheyhaveinhand。Theyaregoodpublicservants，unlesscorruptioncomeintheirway。

Whilespeakingonthesubjectofpatronage，Icannotbutalludetotwoappointmentswhichhadbeenmadebypoliticalinterest，andwiththecircumstancesofwhichIbecameacquainted。InbothinstancesagoodplacehadbeengiventoagentlemanbytheincomingPresident——

notinreturnforpoliticalsupport，butfrommotivesofprivatefriendship——eitherhisownfriendshiporthatofsomemutualfriend。

InbothinstancesIheardtheselectionspokenofwiththewarmestpraise，asthoughanobleacthadbeendoneintheselectionofaprivatefriendinsteadofapoliticalpartisan。Andyetineachcaseamanwasappointedwhoknewnothingofhiswork；who，fromageandcircumstances，wasnotlikelytobecomeacquaintedwithhiswork；who，byhisappointment，keptoutoftheplacethosewhodidunderstandthework，andhadearnedarighttopromotionbysounderstandingit。Twoworthygentlemen——fortheywerebothworthy——

werepensionedonthegovernmentforatermofyearsunderafalsepretense。Thatthisshouldhavebeendoneisnotperhapsremarkable；butitdidseemremarkabletomethateverybodyregardedsuchappointmentsasagooddeed——asadeedsoexceptionablygoodastobeworthyofgreatpraise。IdonotalludetotheseselectionsonaccountofthepoliticalviewshownbythePresidentsinmakingthem，butonaccountofthepoliticalvirtue；inorderthatthenatureofpoliticalvirtueintheStatesmaybeunderstood。IthadneveroccurredtoanyonetowhomIspokeonthesubject，thataPresidentinthebestowingofsuchplaceswasboundtolookforefficientworkinreturnforthepublicmoneywhichwastobepaid。

BeforeIendthischapterImustinsertafewdetailsrespectingthepost-officeoftheStates，which，thoughtheymaynotbespeciallyinterestingtothegeneralreader，willgivesomeideaoftheextentofthedepartment。Thetotalnumberofpost-officesintheStatesonJune30th，1861，was28，586。WithusthenumberinEngland，Scotland，andIreland，atthesameperiod，wasabout11，400。Thepopulationservedmayberegardedasnearlythesame。Ourlowestsalaryis3l。perannum。IntheStatestheremunerationisoftenmuchlower。Itconsistinacommissionontheletters，andissometimeslessthantenshillings。Thedifficultyofobtainingpersonstoholdtheseoffices，andtheamountofworkwhichmusttherebybethrownonwhatiscalledthe“appointmentbranch，“maybejudgedbythefactthat9235oftheseofficeswerefilledupbynewnominationsduringthelastyear。Whenthepatronageisofsuchanatureitisdifficulttosaywhichgivemosttrouble，theplaceswhichnobodywishestohave，orthosewhicheverybodywishestohave。

ThetotalamountofpostageonEuropeanletters，i。e。letterspassingbetweentheStatesandEurope，inthelastyear，astowhichaccountswerekeptbetweenWashingtonandtheEuropeanpost-offices，was275，000l。Ofthisover150，000l。wasonlettersfortheUnitedKingdom；and130，000l。wasonletterscarriedbytheCunardpackets。

AccordingtotheaccountskeptbytheWashingtonoffice，theletterspassingfromtheStatestoEuropeandfromEuropetotheStatesareverynearlyequalinnumber，about101goingtoEuropeforevery100

receivedfromEurope。ButthenumberofnewspaperssentfromtheStatesismorethandoublethenumberreceivedintheStatesfromEurope。

OnJune30th，1861，mailswerecarriedthroughthethenloyalStatesoftheUnionover140，400milesdaily。Upto31stMaypreceding，atwhichtimethegovernmentmailswererunningallthroughtheunitedStates，96，000mileswerecoveredinthoseStateswhichhadthenvirtuallyseceded，andwhichinthefollowingmonthweretakenoutfromthepost-officeaccounts——makingatotalof236，400milesdaily。Ofthismileagesomethinglessthanone-thirdiseffectedbyrailways，atanaveragecostofaboutsixpenceamile。Ourtotalmileageperdayis151，000miles，ofwhich43，823aredonebyrailway，atacostofaboutsevenpencehalf-pennypermile。

AsfarasIcouldlearn，theservantsofthepost-officearelessliberallypaidintheStatesthanwithus，exceptingasregardstwoclasses。Thefirstoftheseisthatclasswhichispaidbyweeklywages，suchasletter-carriersandporters。Theirremunerationisofcourseruledbytherateofordinarywagesinthecountry；andasordinarywagesarehigherintheStatesthanwithus，suchmenarepaidaccordingly。Theotherclassisthatofpostmastersatsecond-

ratetowns。Theyreceivethesamecompensationasthoseatthelargesttowns——unlessindeedtherebeothercompensationsthanthosewritteninthebooksatWashington。Apostmasterispaidacertaincommissiononletters，tillitamountsto400l。perannum:allabovethatgoingbacktothegovernment。Soalsooutofthefeespaidforboxesatthewindowhereceivesanyamountforthcomingnotexceeding400l。ayear；makinginallamaximumof800l。ThepostmasterofNewYorkcangetnomore；butanymoderatelylargetownwillgiveasmuch，andinthiswayanamountofpatronageisprovidedwhichinapoliticalviewisreallyvaluable。

Butwithallthisthepeoplehavemadetheirway，becausetheyhavebeenintelligent，industrious，andinearnest。Andasthepeoplehavemadetheirway，sohasthepost-office。Thenumberofitsoffices，themileageitcovers，itsextraordinarycheapness，therapiditywithwhichithasbeendeveloped，areallproofsofgreatthingsdone；anditisbynomeansstandingstillevenintheseevildaysofwar。Improvementsareevennowonfoot，copiedinagreatmeasurefromourselves。HithertotheAmericanofficehasnottakenuponitselfthetaskofreturningtotheirwritersundeliveredandundeliverableletters。Thisitisnowgoingtodo。Itis，asI

havesaid，shakingofffromitselfthatterribleincubus，thefrankingprivilege。Andtheexpediencyofintroducingamoney-orderofficeintotheStates，connectedwiththepost-officeasitiswithus，isevennowunderconsideration。Suchanaccommodationismuchneededinthecountry；butIdoubtwhetherthepresentmoment，lookingatthefiscalstateofthecountry，iswelladaptedforestablishingit。

Iwasmuchstruckbythegreatextravaganceinsmallthingsmanifestedbythepost-officethroughtheStates，andhavereasontobelievethatthesameremarkwouldbeequallytruewithregardtootherpublicestablishments。Theyuseneedlessformswithoutend——

makingmillionsofentrieswhichnooneiseverexpectedtoregard。

TheirexpenditureinstationerymightIthinkbereducedbyone-

half，andthelabormightbesavedwhichisnowwastedintheabuseofthatuselessstationery。Theirmailbagsaremadeinacostlymanner，andareoftenlargebeyondallproportionornecessity。I

couldgreatlylengthenthislistifIwereaddressingmyselfsolelytopost-officepeople；butasIamnotdoingso，Iwillclosethesesemi-officialremarkswithanassurancetomycolleaguesinpost-

officeworkontheothersideofthewaterthatIgreatlyrespectwhattheyhavedone，andtrustthatbeforelongtheymayhaverenewedopportunitiesfortheprosecutionoftheirgoodwork。

CHAPTERXIV。

AMERICANHOTELS。

Ifinditimpossibletoresistthesubjectofinns。AsIhavegoneonwithmyjourney，Ihavegoneonwithmybook，andhavespokenhereandthereofAmericanhotelsasIhaveencounteredthem。ButintheStatesthehotelsaresolargeaninstitution，havingsomuchcloserandwiderabearingonsociallifethantheydoinanyothercountry，thatIfeelmyselfboundtotreattheminaseparatechapterasagreatnationalarrangementinthemselves。Theyarequiteasmuchthoughtofinthenationasthelegislature，orjudicature，orliteratureofthecountry；andanyfallingoffinthem，oranyimprovementintheaccommodationgiven，wouldstrikethecommunityasforciblyasanychangeintheConstitutionoralterationinthefranchise。

Moreover，Iconsidermyselfasqualifiedtowriteachapteronhotels——notonlyonthehotelsofAmerica，butonhotelsgenerally。

Ihavemyselfbeenmuchtoofrequentlyasojournerathotels。I

thinkIknowwhatahotelshouldbe，andwhatitshouldnotbe；andamalmostinclinedtobelieve，inmypride，thatIcouldmyselffillthepositionofalandlordwithsomechanceofsocialsuccess，thoughprobablywithnoneofsatisfactorypecuniaryresults。

Ofallhotelsknowntome，IaminclinedtothinkthattheSwissarethebest。Thethingswantedatahotelare，Ifancy，mainlyasfollows:acleanbed-room，withagoodandcleanbed，andwithitalsoplentyofwater。Goodfood，welldressedandservedatconvenienthours，whichhoursshouldonoccasionsbeallowedtostretchthemselves。Winesthatshallbedrinkable。Quickattendance。Billsthatshallnotbeabsolutelyextortionate，smilingfaces，andanabsenceoffoulsmells。Therearemanywhodesiremorethanthis——whoexpectexquisitecookery，choicewines，subservientdomestics，distinguishedconsideration，andthestrictesteconomy；buttheyareuneducatedtravelers，whoaregoingthroughtheapprenticeshipoftheirhotellives；whomayprobablyneverbecomefreeofthetravelers\'guild，orlearntodistinguishthatwhichtheymayfairlyhopetoattainfromthatwhichtheycanneveraccomplish。

Takingthemasawhole，IthinkthattheSwisshotelsarethebest。

Theyareperhapsalittlecloseinthematterofcoldwater，butevenastothistheygenerallygivewaytopressure。Thepressure，however，mustnotbeviolent，butgentlerather，andwellcontinued。

Theirbed-roomsareexcellent。Theircookeryisgood，andtotheoutwardsensesiscleanly。Thepeoplearecivil。Thewholeworkofthehouseiscarriedonuponfixedruleswhichtendtothecomfortoftheestablishment。Theyarenotcheap，andnotalwaysquitehonest。Buttheexorbitanceordishonestyoftheirchargesrarelyexceedsacertainreasonablescale，andhardlyeverdemandsthebittermiseryofaremonstrance。

TheinnsoftheTyrolare，Ithink，thecheapestIhaveknown——

affordingthetravelerwhatherequiresforhalftheprice，orlessthanhalfdemandedinSwitzerland。Buttheotherhalfistakenoutinstenchandnastiness。Astouristsscatterthemselvesmoreprofusely，thepricesoftheTyrolwillnodoubtrise。Letushopethatincreasedpriceswillbringwiththembesoms，scrubbing-

brushes，andothermuch-neededarticlesofcleanliness。

TheinnsofthenorthofItalyareverygood；and，indeed，theItalianinnsthroughout，asfarasIknowthem，aremuchbetterthanthenametheybear。TheItaliansareacivil，kindlypeople，anddoforyou，atanyrate，thebesttheycan。Perhapstheunwarytravelermaybecheated。Ignorantofthelanguage，hemaybecalledontopaymorethanthemanwhospeaksitandwhocanbargainintheItalianfashionastoprice。Ithasoftenbeenmylot，Idoubtnot，tobesocheated；butthenIhavebeencheatedwithagracethathasbeenworthallthemoney。TheordinarypricesofItalianinnsarebynomeanshigh。

IhaveseldomthoroughlylikedtheinnsofGermanywhichIhaveknown。Theyarenotclean，andwaterisveryscarce。Smiles，too，aregenerallywanting，andIhaveusuallyfanciedmyselftoberegardedasapieceofgoodsoutofwhichsomuchprofitwastobemade。

ThedearesthotelsIknowaretheFrench——andcertainlynotthebest。IntheprovincestheyarebynomeanssocleanlyasthoseofItaly。Theirwinesaregenerallyabominable，andtheircookeryoftendisgusting。InParisgranddinnersmaynodoubtbehad，andluxuriesofeverydescription——excepttheluxuryofcomfort。

Cotton-velvetsofasandormoluclocksstandintheplaceofconvenientfurniture；andlogsofwood，atafrancalog，failtoimparttoyoutheheatwhichthefreezingcoldofaPariswinterdemands。TheyusedtomakegoodcoffeeinParis，buteventhatisathingofthepast。IfancythattheyimporttheirbrandyfromEnglandandmanufacturetheirowncigars。FrenchwinesyoumaygetgoodataParishotel；butyouwoulddrinkthemasgoodandmuchcheaperifyouboughttheminLondonandtookthemwithyou。

TheworsthotelsIknowareintheHavana。OfcourseIdonotspeakhereofchancemountainhuts，orsmall，far-offroadsidehostels，inwhichthetravelermayfindhimselffromtimetotime。Allsucharetobecountedapart，andmustbejudgedontheirmeritsbythecircumstanceswhichsurroundthem。Butwithreferencetoplacesofwideresort，nothingcanbeatthehotelsoftheHavanainfilth，discomfort，habitsofabomination，andabsenceofeverythingwhichthetravelerdesires。AlltheworlddoesnotgototheHavana，andthesubjectisnotthereforeoneofgeneralinterest。Butinspeakingofhotelsatlarge，somuchIfindmyselfboundtosay。

InallthecountriestowhichIhavealludedtheguestsofthehouseareexpectedtositdowntogetheratonetable。Conversationisatanyratepossible；andthereistheshow，ifnotthereality，ofsociety。

AndnowonewordastoEnglishinns。IdonotthinkthatweEnglishmenhaveanygreatrighttobeproudofthem。Theworstaboutthemisthattheydeterioratefromyeartoyear，insteadofbecomingbetter。WeusedtohearmuchofthecomfortoftheoldEnglishwaysideinn，buttheoldEnglishwaysideinnhasgone。Therailwayhotelhastakenitsplace；andtherailwayhotelistoofrequentlygloomy，desolate，comfortless，andalmostsuicidal。InEngland，too，sincetheolddaysaregone，therearewantingthelandlord\'sbowandthekindlysmileofhisstoutwife。Whonowknowsthelandlordofaninn，orcarestoinquirewhetherornotherebealandlady？Theoldwelcomeiswanting；andthecheery，warmair，whichusedtoatoneforthebadportandtoughbeef，haspassedaway——whiletheportisstillbadandthebeeftoooftentough。

InEngland，andonlyinEnglandasIbelieve，ismaintainedinhotellifethetheoryofsolitaryexistence。ThesojourneratanEnglishinn——unlesshebeacommercialtraveler，andassuchamemberofauniversal，peripatetictradesman\'sclub——livesalone。Hehashisbreakfastalone，hisdinneralone，hispintofwinealone，andhiscupofteaalone。Itisnotconsideredpracticablethattwostrangersshouldsitatthesametableorcutfromthesamedish。

Consequentlyhisdinneriscookedforhimseparately，andthehotelkeepercanhardlyaffordtogivehimagooddinner。Hehastwomodesoflifefromwhichtochoose。Heeitherlivesinapublicroom——calledacoffee-room——andthereoccupies，duringhiscomfortlessmeal，aseparatesmalltable，toofrequentlyremovedfromfireandlight，thoughgenerallyexposedtodraughts，orelseheindulgesintheluxuryofaprivatesitting-room，andendeavorstofindsolaceonanoldhorse-hairsofa，atthecostofsevenshillingsaday。Hisbed-roomisnotsoarrangedthathecanuseitasasitting-room。Undereitherphaseoflifehecanrarelyfindhimselfcomfortable，andthereforehelivesaslittleatahotelasthecircumstancesofhisbusinessorofhispleasurewillallow。I

donotthinkthatanyoftherequisitesofagoodinnarehabituallytobefoundinperfectionatourKings\'HeadsandWhiteHorses，thoughthefallingoffisnotsolamentablydistressingasitsometimesisinothercountries。Thebed-roomsaredingyratherthandirty。Extrapaymenttoservantswillgenerallyproduceatubofcoldwater。Thefoodisnevergood，butitisusuallyeatable，andyoumayhaveitwhenyouplease。Thewinesarealmostalwaysbad，butthetravelercanfallbackuponbeer。Theattendanceisgood，providedalwaysthatthepaymentforitisliberal。Thecostisgenerallytoohigh，andunfortunatelygrowslargerandlargerfromyeartoyear。Smilingfacesareoutofthequestionunlessspeciallypaidfor；andastothatmatteroffoulsmells，thereisoftenroomforimprovement。AnEnglishinntoasolitarytravelerwithoutemploymentisanembodimentofdrearydesolation。TheexcusetobemadeforthisisthatEnglishmenandwomendonotlivemuchatinnsintheirowncountry。

TheAmericaninndiffersfromallthoseofwhichIhavemademention，andisaltogetheraninstitutionapart，andathingofitself。HotelsinAmericaareverymuchlargerandmorenumerousthaninothercountries。Theyaretobefoundinalltowns，andI

mayalmostsayinallvillages。InEnglandandontheContinentwefindthemontherecognizedroutesoftravelandintownsofcommercialorsocialimportance。Onunfrequentedroadsandinvillagesthereisusuallysomesmallhouseofpublicentertainmentinwhichtheunexpectedtravelermayobtainfoodandshelter，andinwhichtheexpectedbooncompanionsoftheneighborhoodsmoketheirnightlypipesanddrinktheirnightlytipple。ButintheStatesofAmericathefirstsignofanincipientsettlementisahotelfivestorieshigh，withanoffice，abar，acloakroom，threegentlemen\'sparlors，twoladies\'parlors，andaladies\'entrance，andtwohundredbedrooms。

Theseofcourseareallbuiltwithaviewtoprofit，anditmaybepresumedthatineachcasetheoriginatorsofthespeculationenterintosomecalculationastotheirexpectedguests。Whencearetocomethesleepersinthosetwohundredbed-rooms，andwhoistopayforthegaudysofasandnumerousloungingchairsoftheladies\'

parlors？Inallothercountriestheexpectationwouldextenditselfsimplytotravelers——totravelersortostrangerssojourningintheland。ButthisisbynomeansthecaseastothesespeculationsinAmerica。Whenthenewhotelrisesupinthewilderness，itispresumedthatpeoplewillcometherewiththeexpressobjectofinhabitingit。Thehotelitselfwillcreateapopulation，astherailwaysdo。Withusrailwaysruntothetowns；butintheStatesthetownsruntotherailways。Itisthesamethingwiththehotels。

HousekeepingisnotpopularwithyoungmarriedpeopleinAmerica，andtherearevariousreasonswhythisshouldbeso。Mentherearenotfixedintheiremploymentastheyarewithus。IfayoungBenedictcannotgetalongasalawyeratSalem，perhapshemaythriveasashoemakeratThermopylae。JeffersonB。JohnsonfailsinthelumberlineatEleutheria，buthearingofanopeningforaBaptistpreacheratBigMudCreekmoveshimselfoffwithhiswifeandthreechildrenataweek\'snotice。AminadabWiggstakesanengagementasaclerkatasteamboatofficeonthePongowongaRiver，buthegoestohisemploymentwithaninwardconvictionthatsixmonthswillseehimearninghisbreadelsewhere。Undersuchcircumstancesevenalargewardrobeisanuisance，andacollectionoffurniturewouldbeasappropriateasadroveofelephants。Thenagainyoungmenandwomenmarrywithoutanymeansalreadycollectedonwhichtocommencetheirlife。Theyarecontenttolookforwardandtohopethatsuchmeanswillcome。Insodoingtheyareguiltyofnoimprudence。Itisthewayofthecountry，and，ifthemanbeusefulforanything，employmentwillcertainlycometohim。Buthemustliveonthefruitsofthatemployment，andcanonlypayhiswayfromweektoweekandfromdaytoday。Andasathirdreason，I

thinkImayallegethatthemodeoflifefoundinthesehotelsislikedbythepeoplewhofrequentthem。Itistotheirtaste。Theyarehappy，oratanyratecontented，atthesehotels，anddonotwishforhouseholdcares。AstothetwofirstreasonswhichIhavegiven，Icanagreeastothenecessityofthecase，andquiteconcurastotheexpediencyofmarriageundersuchcircumstances。Butastothatmatteroftaste，Icannotconcuratall。AnythingmoreforlornthanayoungmarriedwomanatanAmericanhotel，itisimpossibletoconceive。

Sucharetheguestsexpectedforthosetwohundredbedrooms。Thechancetravelersarebutchanceadditionstothese，andarenotgenerallythemainstayofthehouse。Asamatterofcoursetheaccommodationfortravelerswhichthesehotelsaffordincreasesandcreatestraveling。Mencomebecausetheyknowtheywillbefedandbeddedatamoderatecost，andinaneasyway，suitedtotheirtastes。Withus，andthroughoutEurope，inquiryismadebeforeanunaccustomedjourneyiscommenced，onthatseriousquestionofwaysidefoodandshelter。ButintheStatesnosuchquestionisneeded。Abighotelisamatterofcourse，andthereforementravel。EverybodytravelsintheStates。Therailwaysandthehotelsbetweenthemhavesochurnedupthepeoplethatanuntraveledmanorwomanisarareanimal。Weareapttosupposethattravelersmakeroads，andthatguestscreatehotels；butthecauseandeffectrunexactlyintheotherway。Iamalmostdisposedtothinkthatweshouldbecomecannibalsifgentlemen\'slegsandladiesarmswerehungupforsaleinpurveyors\'shops。

Afterthisfashionandwiththeseintentionshotelsarebuilt。Sizeandanimposingexteriorarethefirstrequisitions。Everythingaboutthemmustbeonalargescale。Acommandingexterior，andacertaininteriordignityofdemeanor，ismoreessentialthancomfortorcivility。Whateverahotelmaybeitmustnotbe“mean。“IntheAmericanvernacularthewordmeanisverysignificant。AmeanwhiteintheSouthisamanwhoownsnoslaves。Menareoftenmean，butactionsareseldomsocalled。Amanfeelsmeanwhentheblusteristakenoutofhim。Ameanhotel，conductedinaquietunostentatiousmanner，inwhichtheonlyendeavormadehadreferencetothecomfortofafewguests，wouldfindnofavorintheStates。Thesehotelsarenotcalledbythenameofanysign，aswithusinourprovinces。

Thereareno“Presidents\'Heads“or“GeneralScotts。“Norbythenameofthelandlord，orofsomeformerlandlord，aswithusinLondon，andinmanycitiesoftheContinent。Noraretheycalledfromsomecountryorcitywhichmayhavebeenpresumedatsometimetohavehadspecialpatronagefortheestablishment。InthenomenclatureofAmericanhotelsthespecialtyofAmericanheroworshipisshown，asinthenomenclatureoftheirchildren。Everyinnisahouse，andthesehousesaregenerallynamedaftersomehero，littleknownprobablyintheworldatlarge，buthighlyestimatedinthatlocalityatthemomentofthechristening。

TheyarealwaysbuiltonaplanwhichtoaEuropeanseemstobemostunnecessarilyextravagantinspace。Itisnotunfrequentlythecasethatthegreaterportionofthegroundfloorisoccupiedbyroomsandhallswhichmakenoreturntothehousewhatever。Thevisitorentersagreathallbythefrontdoor，andalmostinvariablyfindsitfullofmenwhoareidlingabout，sittingroundonstationaryseats，talkinginalistlessmanner，andgettingthroughtheirtimeasthoughtheplacewereapubliclounging-room。Andsoitis。Thechancesarethatnothalfthecrowdareguestsatthehotel。Iwillnowfollowthevisitorashemakeshiswayuptotheoffice。Everyhotelhasanoffice。Tocallthisplacethebar，asIhavedonetoofrequently，isalamentableerror。Thebarisheldinaseparateroomappropriatedsolelytodrinking。Totheoffice，whichisinfactalongopenbar，theguestwalksup，andthereinscribeshisnameinabook。ThisinscriptionwastomeamomentofmiserywhichIcouldnevergothroughwithequanimity。Asthenameiswritten，andastherequestforaccommodationismade，halfadozenloungerslookoveryournameandlistentowhatyousay。Theylistenattentively，andspellyournamecarefully，butthegreatmanbehindthebardoesnotseemtolistenortoheedyou；yourdestinyisneverimpartedtoyouontheinstant。Ifyourwifeoranyotherwomanbewithyou——theword“lady“ismadesoabsolutelydistastefulinAmericanhotelsthatIcannotbringmyselftouseitinwritingofthem——shehasbeencarriedofftoalady\'swaitingroom，andthereremainsinaugustwretchednesstillthegreatmanatthebarshallhavedecidedonherfate。Ihaveneverbeenquiteabletofathomthemysteryofthesedelays。Ithinktheymusthaveoriginatedinthenecessityofwaitingtoseewhatmightbetheinfluxoftravelersatthemoment，andthenhavebecomeexaggeratedandbroughttotheirpresentnormalstatebythegratifiedfeelingofalmostdivinepowerwithwhichforthetimeitinveststhatdespoticarbiter。Ihavefounditalwaysthesame，thougharrivingwithnocrowd，byaconveyanceofmyown，whennootherexpectantguestswerefollowingme。Thegreatmanhaslistenedtomyrequestinsilence，withanimperturbableface，andhasusuallycontinuedhisconversationwithsomeloafingfriend，whoatthetimeisprobablyscrutinizingmynameinthebook。Ihaveoftensufferedinpatience，butpatienceisnotspeciallythebadgeofmytribe，andI

havesometimesspokenoutratherfreely。IfImaypresumetogiveadvicetomytravelingcountrymenhowtoactundersuchcircumstances，Ishouldrecommendtothemfreedomofspeechratherthanpatience。Thegreatman，whenfreelyaddressed，generallyopenshiseyes，andselectsthekeyofyourroomwithoutfurtherdelay。Iaminclinedtothinkthattheselectionwillnotbemadeinanywaytoyourdetrimentbyreasonofthatfreedomofspeech。

TheladyintheballadwhospokeoutherownmindtoLordBateman，wassenttoherhomehonorablyinacoachandthree。Hadsheheldhertongue，wearejustifiedinpresumingthatshewouldhavebeenreturnedonapillionbehindaservant。

Ihavebeengreatlyannoyedbythatwantofspeech。Ihaverepeatedlyaskedforroom，andreceivednosyllableinreturn。I

havepersistedinmyrequest，andtheclerkhasnoddedhisheadatme。Untilatravelerisknown，thesegentlemenaresingularlysparingofspeech，especiallyintheWest。Thesameeconomyofwordsrunsdownfromthegreatmanattheofficeallthroughtheservantsoftheestablishment。Itarises，Ibelieve，entirelyfromthatwantofcourtesywhichdemocraticinstitutionscreate。Themanwhomyouaddresshastomakeabattleagainstthestateofsubserviencepresumedtobeindicatedbyhisposition，andhedoessobydeclaringhisindifferencetothepersononwhosewantsheispaidtoattend。Ihavebeenhonoredononeortwooccasionsbythesubsequentintimacyofthesegreatmenatthehoteloffices，andhavethenfoundthemreadyenoughatconversation。

Thatnecessityofmakingyourrequestforroombeforeapublicaudienceisnotinitselfagreeable，andsometimesentailsaconversationwhichmightbemorecomfortablymadeinprivate。“Whatdoyoumeanbyadressing-room，andwhydoyouwantone？“NowthatisaquestionwhichanEnglishmanfeelsawkwardatansweringbeforefiveandtwentyAmericans，withopenmouthsandeagereyes；butithastobeanswered。WhenIleftEngland，IwasassuredthatI

shouldnotfindanyneedforaseparatesitting-room，seeingthatdrawing-roomsmoreorlesssumptuouswerepreparedfortheaccommodationof“ladies。“Atfirstweattemptedtofollowtheadvicegiventous，butwebrokedown。Amanandhiswifetravelingfromtowntotown，andmakingnosojournonhisway，mayeatandsleepatahotelwithoutaprivateparlor。ButanEnglishwomancannotliveincomfortforaweek，orevenincomfortforaday，atanyofthesehouses，withoutasitting-roomforherself。Theladies\'drawing-roomisadesolatewilderness。TheAmericanwomenthemselvesdonotuseit。Itisgenerallyempty，oroccupiedbysomeforlornspinster，elicitingharshsoundsfromthewretchedpianowhichitcontains。

Thepriceatthesehotelsthroughouttheunionisnearlyalwaysthesame，viz。，twoandahalfdollarsaday，forwhichabed-roomisgivenandasmanymealsastheguestcancontrivetoeat。Thisisthepriceforchanceguests。Thecosttomonthlyboardersis，I

believe，notmorethanthehalfofthis。Tenshillingsaday，therefore，coverseverythingthatisabsolutelynecessary，servantsincluded；andthismustbesaidinpraiseoftheseinns——thatthetravelercancomputehisexpensesaccurately，andcanabsolutelybringthemwithinthatdailysumoftenshillings。Thisincludesagreatdealofeating，agreatdealofattendance，theuseofreading-roomandsmoking-room——which，however，alwaysseemtobeopentothepublicaswellastotheguests——andabed-room，withaccommodationwhichisatanyrateasgoodastheaverageaccommodationofhotelsinEurope。InthelargeEasterntownsbathsareattachedtomanyoftherooms。Ialwayscarrymyown，andhaveneverfailedingettingwater。Itmustbeacknowledgedthatthepriceisverycheap。ItissocheapthatIbelieveitaffords，asarule，noprofitwhatsoever。Theprofitismadeuponextracharges，andtheyarehigherthaninanyothercountrythatIhavevisited。

TheyaresohighthatIconsidertravelinginAmerica，foranEnglishmanwithhiswifeorfamily，tobemoreexpensivethantravelinginanypartofEurope。Firstinthelistofextrascomesthatmatterofthesitting-room，andbythatforamanandhiswifethewholefirstexpenseisatoncedoubled。Theordinarychargeisfivedollars，oronepoundaday！Aguestintendingtostayfortwoorthreeweeksatahotel，orperhapsforoneweek，may，byagreement，havethischargereduced。AtoneinnIstayedafortnight，andhavingmadenosuchagreement，waschargedthefullsum。Ifeltmyselfstirreduptocomplain，anddidinthatcaseremonstrate。IwasaskedhowmuchIwishedtohavereturned——forthebillhadbeenpaid——andthesumIsuggestedwasatoncehandedtome。Butevenwithsuchreduction，thepriceisveryhigh，andatoncemakestheAmericanhotelexpensive。Winealsoatthesehousesisverycostly，andverybad。Theusualpriceistwodollars(oreightshillings)abottle。Thepeopleofthecountryrarelydrinkwineatdinnerinthehotels。Whentheydoso，theydrinkchampagne；buttheirnormaldrinkingisdoneseparately，atthebar，chieflybeforedinner，andatacheaprate。“Adrink，“letitbewhatitmay，invariablycostsadime，orfivepence。Butifyoumusthaveaglassofsherrywithyourdinner，itcoststwodollars；

forsherrydoesnotgrowintopintbottlesintheStates。Buttheguestwhoremainsfortwodayscanhavehiswinekeptforhim。

Washingalsoisanexpensiveluxury。Thepriceofthisisinvariable，beingalwaysfourpenceforeverythingwashed。A

cambrichandkerchieformuslindressallcomeoutatthesameprice。

Forthosewhoarecunninginthematterthismaydoverywell；butformenandwomenwhosecuffsandcollarsarenumerousitbecomesexpensive。Thecraftofthosewhoarecunningisshown，Ithink，inlittleinternalwashings，bywhichthecambrichandkerchiefsarekeptoutofthelist，whilethemuslindressesareplaceduponit。

Iamledtothissurmisebytheenergeticmeasurestakenbythehotelkeeperstopreventsuchdomesticwashings，andbythedenunciationswhichineveryhotelarepastedupineveryroomagainstthepractice。IcouldnotatfirstunderstandwhyIwasalwayswarnedagainstwashingmyownclothesinmyownbed-room，andtoldthatnoforeignlaundresscouldonanyaccountbeadmittedintothehouse。Theinjunctionsgivenonthisheadarealmostfranticintheirenergy，andthereforeIconceivethathotel-keepersfindthemselvesexposedtomuchsufferinginthematter。Atthesehotelstheywashwithgreatrapidity，sendingyoubackyourclothesinfourorfivehoursifyoudesireit。

AnotherverystringentorderisplacedbeforethefaceofallvisitorsatAmericanhotels，desiringthemonnoaccounttohavevaluablepropertyintheirrooms。Ipresumethattheremusthavebeensomedifficultyinthismatterinbygoneyears；forineveryStatealawhasbeenpasseddeclaringthathotel-keepersshallnotbeheldresponsibleformoneyorjewelsstolenoutofroomsintheirhouses，providedthattheyarefurnishedwithsafesforkeepingsuchmoneyandgiveduecautiontotheirguestsonthesubject。Theduecautionisalwaysgiven，butIhaveseldommyselftakenanynoticeofit。Ihavealwaysleftmyportmanteauopen，andhavekeptmymoneyusuallyinatraveling-deskinmyroom；butInevertomyknowledgelostanything。Theworld，Ithink，givesitselfcreditformorethievesthanitpossesses。AstothefemaleservantsatAmericaninns，theyaregenerallyallthatisdisagreeable。Theyareuncivil，impudent，dirty，slow——provokingtoadegree。ButI

believethattheykeeptheirhandsfrompickingandstealing。

IneveryetmadeasinglecomfortablemealatanAmericanhotel，orrosefrommybreakfastordinnerwiththatfeelingofsatisfactionwhichshould，Ithink，befeltatsuchmomentsinacivilizedlandinwhichcookeryprevailsasanart。Ihavehadenough，andhavebeenhealthy，andamthankful。Butthatthankfulnessisaltogetheramatterapart，anddoesnotbearuponthequestion。Ifneedbe，I

caneatfoodthatisdisagreeabletomypalateandmakenocomplaint。ButIholdittobecompatiblewiththeprinciplesofanadvancedChristianitytopreferfoodthatispalatable。InevercouldgetanyofthatkindatanAmericanhotel。Allmeal-timesatsuchhousesweretomeperiodsofdisagreeableduty；andatthismoment，asIwritetheselinesatthehotelinwhichIamstillstaying，IpineforanEnglishlegofmutton。ButIdonotwishittobesupposedthatthefaultofwhichIcomplain——foritisagrievousfault——isincidentaltoAmericaasanation。Ihavestayedinprivatehouses，andhavedailysatdowntodinnersquiteasgoodasanymyownkitchencouldaffordme。Theirdinnerpartiesaregenerallywelldone，andasapeopletheyarebynomeansindifferenttothenatureoftheircomestibles。ItisofthehotelsthatIspeak；andofthemIagainsaythateatinginthemisadisagreeabletask——apainfullabor。Itisasaschoolboy\'slesson，orthesixhours\'confinementofaclerkathisdesk。

Themodeofeatingisasfollows:Certainfeedinghoursarenamed，whichgenerallyincludenearlyalltheday。Breakfastfromsixtillten。Dinnerfromonetillfive。Teafromsixtillnine。Supperfromninetilltwelve。Whentheguestpresentshimselfatanyofthesehours，heismarshaledtoaseat，andabillisputintohishandcontainingthenamesofalltheeatablesthenofferedforhischoice。Thelistisincrediblyandmostunnecessarilylong。ThenitisthatyouwillseecarewrittenonthefaceoftheAmericanhotelliver，ashestudiestheprogrammeofthecomingperformance。

Withmenthispassesoffunnoticed，butwithyounggirlstheappearanceofthethingisnotattractive。Theanxiousstudy，theelaboratereadingofthedailybook，andthenthechoiceproclaimedwithcleararticulation:“Boiledmuttonandcapersauce，roastduck，hashedvenison，mashedpotatoes，poachedeggsandspinach，stewedtomatoes。Yes——and，waiter，somesquash！“Thereisnofalsedelicacyinthevoicebywhichthisorderisgiven，nodesireforagentlewhisper。ThedinnerisorderedwiththefirmdeterminationofanAmericanheroine；andinsomefiveminutes\'timeallthelittledishesappearatonce，andtheladyissurroundedbyherbanquet。

HowIdidlearntohatethoselittledishesandtheirgreasycontents！AtaLondoneating-housethingsareoftennotverynice，butyourmeatisputonaplateandcomesbeforeyouinanedibleshape。Atthesehotelsitisbroughttoyouinhorridlittleovaldishes，andswimsingrease；gravyisnotaninstitutioninAmericanhotels，butgreasehastakenitsplace。Itispalpable，undisguisedgrease，floatinginrivers——notgreasecausedbyaccidentalbadcookery，butgreaseonpurpose。Abeef-steakisnotabeef-steakunlessaquarterofapoundofbutterbeaddedtoit。Thosehorridlittledishes！Ifonethinksofit，howcouldtheyhavebeenmadetocontainChristianfood？Everyarticleinthatlonglistisliabletothecallofanynumberofguestsforfourhours。Undersuchcircumstanceshowcanfoodbemadeeatable？Yourroastmuttonisbroughttoyouraw；ifyouobjecttothat，youaresuppliedwithmeatthathasbeenfourtimesbroughtbeforethepublic。AthotelsontheContinentofEuropedifferentdinnersarecookedatdifferenthours；butherethesamedinneriskeptalwaysgoing。Thehousebreakfastismaintainedonasimilarfooting。Hugeboilersofteaandcoffeearesteweddownandkepthot。Tomethosemealswereodious。Itisofcourseopentoanyonetohaveseparatedinnersandseparatebreakfastsinhisownrooms；butbythislittleisgainedandmuchislost。Heorshewhoissoexclusivepaystwiceoverforsuchmeals——astheyarechargedasextrasonthebill——and，afterall，receivestheadvantageofnoexclusivecooking。

Particlesfromthepublicdinnersarebroughttotheprivateroom，andthesameodiouslittledishesmaketheirappearance。

ButthemoststrikingpeculiarityoftheAmericanhotelsisintheirpublicrooms。Oftheladies\'drawing-roomIhavespoken。Therearetwo，andsometimesthree，inonehotel，andtheyaregenerallyfurnishedatanyrateexpensively。Itseemstomethatthespaceandthefurniturearealmostthrownaway。Atwatering-placesandsea-sidesummerhotelstheyare，Ipresume，used；butatordinaryhotelstheyareemptydeserts。Theintentionisgood，fortheyareestablishedwiththeviewofgivingtoladiesathotelsthecomfortsofordinarydomesticlife；buttheyfailintheireffect。Ladieswillnotmakethemselveshappyinanyroom，orwitheversomuchgildedfurniture，unlesssomemeansofhappinessareprovidedforthem。Intotheseroomsnobookiseverbrought，noneedle-workisintroduced；fromthemnoclatterofmanytonguesiseverheard。Onamarbletableinthemiddleoftheroomalwaysstandsalargepitcheroficedwater；andfromthisacold，damp，uninvitingairisspreadthroughtheatmosphereoftheladies\'drawing-room。

Below，onthegroundfloor，thereis，inthefirstplace，thehugeentrancehall，atthebackofwhich，behindabar，thegreatmanoftheplacekeepsthekeysandholdshiscourt。Therearegenerallyseatsaroundit，inwhichsmokerssit——ormennotsmokingbutruminating。Openingofffromthisarereading-rooms，smoking-rooms，shaving-rooms，drinking-rooms，parlorsforgentlemeninwhichsmokingisprohibitedandwhicharegenerallyasdesolateasladies\'

sitting-roomsabove。Inthoseothermorecongenialchambersisalwaysgatheredtogetheracrowdapparentlybelonginginnowaytothehotel。ItwouldseemthatagreatportionofanAmericanInnisasopentothepublicasanExchangeorasthewaysideofthestreet。IntheWest，duringtheearlymonthsofthiswar，thetravelerwouldalwaysseemanysoldiersamongthecrowd——notonlyofficers，butprivates。Theysitinpublicseats，silentbutapparentlycontented，sometimesforanhourtogether。AllAmericansaregiventogatheringssuchasthese。Itisthemuch-lovedinstitutiontowhichthenameof“loafing“hasbeengiven。

IdonotlikethemodeoflifewhichprevailsintheAmericanhotels。Ihavecomeacrossexceptions，andknowoneortwothatareverycomfortable——alwaysexceptingthatmatterofeatinganddrinking。Takingthemasawhole，Idonotliketheirmodeoflife；

butIfeelboundtoaddthatthehotelsofCanada，whicharekeptI

thinkalwaysafterthesamefashion，areinfinitelyworsethanthoseoftheUnitedStates。IdonotliketheAmericanhotels；butImustsayintheirfavorthattheyaffordanimmenseamountofaccommodation。Thetravelerisrarelytoldthatahotelisfull，sothattravelinginAmericaiswithoutoneofthosegreatperilstowhichitissubjectinEurope。

CHAPTERXV。

LITERATURE。

Inspeakingoftheliteratureofanycountryweare，Ithink，toomuchinclinedtoregardthequestionasoneappertainingexclusivelytothewritersofbooks——notacknowledgingasweshoulddothattheliterarycharacterofapeoplewilldependmuchmoreuponwhatitreadsthanuponwhatitwrites。Ifwecansupposeanypeopletohaveanintimateacquaintancewiththebestliteraryeffortsofothercountries，weshouldhardlybecorrectinsayingthatsuchapeoplehadnoliteraryhistoryoftheirownbecauseithaditselfproducednothinginliterature。And，withreferencetothosecountrieswhichhavebeenmostfertileintheproductionofgoodbooks，Idoubtwhethertheirliteraryhistoriesshouldnothavemoretotellofthoseagesinwhichmuchhasbeenreadthanofthoseinwhichmuchhasbeenwritten。

TheUnitedStateshavebeenbynomeansbarrenintheproductionofliterature。Thetruthissofarfromthisthattheirliterarytriumphsareperhapsthosewhichofalltheirtriumphsarethemosthonorabletothem，andwhich，consideringtheirpositionasayoungnation，arethemostpermanentlysatisfactory。Butthoughtheyhavedonemuchinwriting，theyhavedonemuchmoreinreading。Asproducerstheyaremorethanrespectable，butasconsumerstheyarethemostconspicuouspeopleontheearth。ItisimpossibletospeakofthesubjectofliteratureinAmericawithoutthinkingofthereadersratherthanofthewriters。Inthismattertheirpositionisdifferentfromthatofanyothergreatpeople，seeingthattheysharetheadvantagesofourlanguage。AnAmericanwillperhapsconsiderhimselftobeaslittlelikeanEnglishmanasheislikeaFrenchman。ButhereadsShakspearethroughthemediumofhisownvernacular，andhastoundergothepenanceofaforeigntonguebeforehecanunderstandMoliere。HeseparateshimselffromEnglandinpoliticsandperhapsinaffection；buthecannotseparatehimselffromEnglandinmentalculture。ItmaybesuggestedthatanEnglishmanhasthesameadvantagesasregardsAmerica；anditistruethatheisobtainingmuchofsuchadvantage。Irving，Prescott，andLongfellowarethesametoEnglandasthoughsheherselfhadproducedthem。ButthebalanceofadvantagemustbegreatlyinfavorofAmerica。Wegavehertheworkoffourhundredyears，andreceivedbackinreturntheworkoffifty。

AndofthisadvantagetheAmericanshavenotbeenslowtoavailthemselves。Asconsumersofliteraturetheyarecertainlythemostconspicuouspeopleontheearth。WhereanEnglishpublishercontentshimselfwiththousandsofcopies，anAmericanpublisherdealswithtenthousand。Thesaleofanewbook，whichinnumberswouldamounttoaconsiderablesuccesswithus，wouldwiththembealamentablefailure。Thisofcourseisaccountedfor，asregardstheauthorandthepublisher，bythedifferenceofpriceatwhichthebookisproduced。OnethousandinEnglandwillgiveperhapsasgoodareturnasthetenthousandinAmerica。Butasregardsthereaderstherecanbenosuchequalization:thethousandcopiescannotspreadthemselvesasdothetenthousand。Theonebookataguineacannotmultiplyitself，letMr。Mudiedowhathewill，asdothetenbooksatadollar。Ultimatelythereremainthetenbooksagainsttheone；

andiftherebenotthetenreadersagainsttheone，therearefive，orfour，orthree。EverybodyintheStateshasbooksabouthishouse。“AndsohaseverybodyinEngland，“willsaymyEnglishreader，mindfulofthelibraries，orbook-rooms，orbook-crowdeddrawing-roomsofhisfriendsandacquaintances。ButhasmyEnglishreaderwhosorepliesexaminedthelibrariesofmanyEnglishcabmen，ofticketporters，ofwarehousemen，andofagriculturallaborers？I

cannottakeuponmyselftosaythatIhavedonesowithanyclosesearchintheStates；butwhenithasbeeninmypowerIhavedoneso，andIhavealwaysfoundbooksinsuchhousesasIhaveentered。