第6章

Atlastwedidfindourselvesontheprairie，amidthewavinggrass，withthelandrollingonbeforeusinasuccessionofgentlesweeps，neverrisingsoastoimpedetheview，orapparentlychanginginitsgenerallevel，butyetwithoutthemonotonyofflatness。Wewereontheprairie，butstillIfeltnosatisfaction。Itwasprivateproperty，dividedamongholdersandpasturedoverbyprivatecattle。SalisburyPlainisaswild，andDartmooralmostwilder。Deer，theytoldme，weretobehadwithinreachofDixon，butforthebuffaloonehastogomuchfartherafieldthanIllinois。ThefarmermayrejoiceinIllinois，butthehunterandthetrappermustcrossthebigriversandpassawayintotheWesternTerritoriesbeforehecanfindlandswildenoughforhispurposes。Myvisittothecorn-fieldsofIllinoiswasinitswaysuccessful，butIfelt，asIturnedmyfaceeastwardtowardChicago，thatIhadnorighttoboastthatIhadasyetmadeacquaintancewithaprairie。

Allmindswereturnedtothewar，atDixonaselsewhere。InIllinoisthemenboastedthat，asregardsthewar，theyweretheleadingStateoftheunion。ButthesameboastwasmadeinIndiana，andalsoinMassachusetts，andprobablyinhalftheStatesoftheNorthandWest。They，theIllinoisians，calltheircountrythewar-nestoftheWest。ThepopulationoftheStateis1，700，000，andithadundertakentofurnishsixtyvolunteerregimentsof1000meneach。Andletitbeborneinmindthattheseregiments，whenfurnished，arereallyfull——absolutelycontainingthethousandmenwhentheyaresentawayfromtheparentStates。

Thenumberofsoulsabovenamedwillgive420，000workingmen，andif，outofthese，60，000aresenttothewar，theState，whichisalmostpurelyagricultural，willhavegivenmorethanonemanineight。WhenIwasinIllinois，overfortyregimentshadalreadybeensent——forty-six，ifIrememberrightly——andthereexistednodoubtwhateverastotheremainingnumber。FromthenextState，Indiana，withapopulationof1，350，000，givingsomethinglessthan350，000workingmen，thirty-sixregimentshadbeensent。IfearthatIammentioningthesenumbersusqueadnauseam；butIwishtoimpressuponEnglishreadersthemagnitudeoftheeffortmadebytheStatesinmusteringandequippinganarmywithinsixorsevenmonthsofthefirstacknowledgmentthatsuchanarmywouldbenecessary。TheAmericanshavecomplainedbitterlyofthewantofEnglishsympathy，andIthinktheyhavebeenweakinmakingthatcomplaint。ButIwouldnotwishthattheyshouldhereafterhavethepowerofcomplainingofawantofEnglishjustice。TherecanbenodoubtthatagenuinefeelingofpatriotismwasarousedthroughouttheNorthandWest，andthatmenrushedintotheranksactuatedbythatfeeling，menforwhomwarandarmylife，acampandfifteendollarsamonth；wouldnotofthemselveshavehadanyattraction。Itcametothat，thatyoungmenwereashamednottogointothearmy。Thisfeelingofcourseproducedcoercion，andthemovementwasinthatwaytyrannical。Thereisnothingmoretyrannicalthanastrongpopularfeelingamongademocraticpeople。

Duringtheperiodofenlistmentthistyrannywasverystrong。Buttheexistenceofsuchatyrannyprovesthepassionandpatriotismofthepeople。Itgotthebetteroftheloveofmoney，oftheloveofchildren，andoftheloveofprogress。Wiveswhowiththeirbairnswereabsolutelydependentontheirhusbands\'labors，wouldwishtheirhusbandstobeatthewar。Nottoconduce，insomespecialway，towardthewar；tohaveneitherfatherthere，norbrothernorson；nottohavelectured，orpreached，orwrittenforthewar；tohavemadenosacrificeforthewar，tohavehadnospecialandindividualinterestinthewar，wasdisgraceful。OneseesataglancethetyrannyofallthisinsuchacountryastheStates。Onecanunderstandhowquicklyadversestorieswouldspreadthemselvesastotheopinionofanymanwhochosetoremaintranquilatsuchatime。Oneshuddersattheabsoluteabsenceoftruelibertywhichsuchapassionthroughoutademocraticcountrymustengender。Buthewhohasobservedallthismustacknowledgethatthatpassiondidexist。Dollars，children，progress，education，andpoliticalrivalryallgavewaytotheonestrongnationaldesireforthethrashingandcrushingofthosewhohadrebelledagainsttheauthorityofthestarsandstripes。

WhenwewereatDixontheyweregettinguptheDementregiment。

Theattemptatthetimedidnotseemtobeprosperous，andthefewmenwhohadbeencollectedhadaboutthemaforlorn，ill-

conditionedlook。Butthen，asIwastold，Dixonhadalreadybeendecimatedandredecimatedbyformerrecruitingcolonels。ColonelDement，fromwhomtheregimentwastobenamed，andwhosemilitarycareerwasonlynowabouttocommence，hadcomelateintothefield。Ididnotafterwardascertainwhathadbeenhissuccess，butIhardlydoubtthathedidultimatelyscrapetogetherhisthousandmen。“Whydon\'tyougo？“IsaidtoaburlyIrishmanwhowasdrivingme。“I\'mnotasoundman，yerhonor，“saidtheIrishman；“I\'mdeficientinmeliver。“TakingtheIrishmen，however，throughouttheUnion，theyhadnotbeenfounddeficientinanyofthenecessariesforacareerofwar。IdonotthinkthatanymenhavedonebetterthantheIrishintheAmericanarmy。

FromDixonwewenttoChicago。ChicagoisinmanyrespectsthemostremarkablecityamongalltheremarkablecitiesoftheUnion。

Itsgrowthhasbeenthefastestanditssuccessthemostassured。

Twenty-fiveyearsagotherewasnoChicago，andnowitcontains120，000inhabitants。Cincinnati，ontheOhio，andSt。Louis，atthejunctionoftheMissouriandMississippi，arelargertowns；buttheyhavenotgrownlargesoquicklynordotheynowpromisesoexcessiveadevelopmentofcommerce。ChicagomaybecalledthemetropolisofAmericancorn——thefavoritecityhauntoftheAmericanCeres。Thegoddessseatsherselfthereamidthedustofherfullbarns，andproclaimsherselfagoddessrulingoverthingspoliticalandphilosophicalaswellasagricultural。Notfurrowsonlyareinherthoughts，butfreetradealsoandbrotherlylove。

AndwithinherownbosomthereisaboastthatevenyetshewillbestrongerthanMars。InChicagotherearegreatstreets，androwsofhousesfittobetheresidencesofanewCorn-Exchangenobility。

Theylookoutonthewidelakewhichisnowthehighwayforbreadstuffs，andthemerchant，asheshavesathiswindow，seeshisrapidventuresastheypassaway，oneaftertheother，towardtheEast。

IwentoveronegreatgrainstoreinChicagopossessedbygentlemenofthenameofSturgessandBuckenham。Itwasaworldinitself，andthedustiestofalltheworlds。Itcontained，whenIwasthere，halfamillionbushelsofwheat——oraverygreatmany，asI

mightsayinotherlanguage。Butitwasnotasastorehousethatthisgreatbuildingwassoremarkable，butasachannelorariver-

courseforthefloodingfreshetsofcorn。Itissobuiltthatbothrailwayvansandvesselscomeimmediatelyunderitsclaws，asImaycallthegreattrunksoftheelevators。Outoftherailwayvansthecornandwheatisclawedupintothebuilding，anddownsimilartrunksitisatonceagainpouredoutintothevessels。IshallbeatBuffaloinapageortwo，andthenIwillendeavortoexplainmoreminutelyhowthisisdone。AtChicagothecornisboughtanddoeschangehands；andmuchofit，therefore，isstoredthereforsomespaceoftime，shorterorlongerasthecasemaybe。WhenI

wasatChicago，theonlylimittotherapidityofitstransitwassetbytheamountofboataccommodation。TherewerenotbottomsenoughtotakethecornawayfromChicago，nor，indeed，ontherailwaywasthereasufficiencyofrollingstockorlocomotivepowertobringitintoChicago。AsIsaidbefore，thecountrywasburstingwithitsownproduceandsmotheredinitsownfruits。

AtChicagothehotelwasbiggerthanotherhotelsandgrander。

Therewerepipeswithoutendforcoldwaterwhichranhot，andforhotwaterwhichwouldnotrunatall。Thepost-officealsowasgranderandbiggerthanotherpost-offices，thoughthepostmasterconfessedtomethatthatmatterofthedeliveryofletterswasonewhichcouldnotbecompassed。Justatthatmomentitwasbeingdoneasaprivatespeculation；butitdidnotpay，andwouldbediscontinued。Thetheater，too，waslarge，handsome，andconvenient；butonthenightofmyattendanceitseemedtolackanaudience。Agoodcomicactoritdidnotlack，andIneverlaughedmoreheartilyinmylife。Therewassomethingwrong，too，justatthattime——Icouldnotmakeoutwhat——intheConstitutionofIllinois，andthepresentmomenthadbeenselectedforvotinganewConstitution。TousinEnglandsuchanecessitywouldbeconsideredamatterofimportance，butitdidnotseemtobemuchthoughtofhere，“Someslightalterationprobably，“Isuggested。

“No，“saidmyinformant，oneofthejudgesoftheircourts，“itistobeathorough，radicalchangeofthewholeConstitution。Theyarevotingthedelegatesto-day。“Iwenttoseethemvotethedelegates，but，unfortunately，gotintoawrongplace——byinvitation——andwasturnedout，notwithoutsomeslighttumult。I

trustthatthenewConstitutionwascarriedthroughsuccessfully。

Fromtheselittledetailsitmay，perhaps，beunderstoodhowatownlikeChicagogoesonandprospersinspiteofallthedrawbackswhichareincidenttonewness。Meninthoseregionsdonotmindfailures，and，whentheyhavefailed，instantlybeginagain。Theymaketheirplansonalargescale，andtheywhocomeafterthemfillupwhathasbeenwantingatfirst。Thosetapsofhotandcoldwaterwillbemadetorunbythenextownerofthehotel，ifnotbythepresentowner。Inanothertenyearstheletters，Idonotdoubt，willallbedelivered。Longbeforethattimethetheaterwillprobablybefull。ThenewConstitutionisnodoubtalreadyatwork，and，iffounddeficient，anotherwillsucceedtoitwithoutanytroubletotheStateoranytalkonthesubjectthroughtheUnion。Chicagowasintendedasatownofexportforcorn，andthereforethecornstoreshavereceivedthefirstattention。WhenIwastheretheywereinperfectworkingorder。

FromChicagowewentontoCleveland，atownintheStateofOhio，onLakeErie，againtravelingbythesleeping-cars。IfoundthatthesecarswereuniversallymentionedwithgreathorroranddisgustbyAmericansoftheupperclass。Theyalwaysdeclaredthattheywouldnottravelinthemonanyaccount。Noiseanddirtwerethetwoobjections。Theyareverynoisy，buttousbelongedthehappypowerofsleepingdownnoise。Iinvariablysleptallthroughthenight，andknewnothingaboutthenoise。Theyarealsoverydirty——

extremelydirty——dirtysoastocausemuchannoyance。Butthentheyarenotquitesodirtyasthedaycars。IfdirtistobeabaragainsttravelinginAmerica，menandwomenmuststayathome。

Formyself，Idon\'tmuchcarefordirt，havingastrongrelianceonsoapandwaterandscrubbing-brushes。Nooneregardspoisonswhocarriesantidotesinwhichhehasperfectfaith。

Clevelandisanotherpleasanttown——pleasantasMilwaukeeandPortland。Thestreetsarehandsomeandareshadedbygrandavenuesoftrees。Oneofthesestreetsisoveramileinlength，andthroughoutthewholeofittherearetreesoneachside——notlittle，paltrytreesasaretobeseenontheboulevardsofParis，butspreadingelms:thebeautifulAmericanelm，whichnotonlyspreads，butdroopsalso，andmakesmoreofitsfoliagethananyothertreeextant。AndthereisasquareinCleveland，wellsized，aslargeasRussellSquareIshouldsay，withopenpathsacrossit，andcontainingoneortwohandsomebuildings。IcannotbutthinkthatallmenandwomeninLondonwouldbegreatgainersiftheironrailsofthesquareswerethrowndownandthegrassyinclosuresthrownopentothepublic。Ofcoursetheedgesoftheturfwouldbeworn，andthepathswouldnotkeeptheirexactshapes。Buttheprisonlookwouldbebanished，andthesombersadnessofthesquareswouldberelieved。

IwasparticularlystruckbythesizeandcomfortofthehousesatCleveland。AlldownthatstreetofwhichIhavespokentheydonotstandcontinuouslytogether，butaredetachedandseparate——houseswhichinEnglandwouldrequiresomefifteenoreighteenhundredayearfortheirmaintenance。IntheStates，however，mencommonlyexpenduponhouserentamuchgreaterproportionoftheirincomethantheydoinEngland。Withusitis，Ibelieve，thoughtthatamanshouldcertainlynotapportionmorethanaseventhofhisspendingincometohishouserent——somesaynotmorethanatenth。

ButinmanycitiesoftheStatesamanisthoughttolivewellwithinboundsifhesoexpendsafourth。TherecanbenodoubtastoAmericanslivinginbetterhousesthanEnglishmen，makingthecomparisonofcoursebetweenmenofequalincomes。ButtheEnglishmanhasmanymoreincidentalexpensesthantheAmerican。Hespendsmoreonwine，onentertainments，onhorses，andonamusements。Hehasamorenumerousestablishment，andkeepsuptheadjunctsandoutskirtsofhisresidencewithamorefinishedneatness。

ThesehousesinClevelandwereverygood，as，indeed，theyareinmostNortherntowns；butsomeofthemhavebeenerectedwithanamountofbadtastethatisalmostincredible。Itisnotuncommontoseeinfrontofasquarebrickhouseawoodenquasi-Greekportico，withapedimentandIoniccolumns，equallyhighwiththehouseitself。WoodencolumnswithGreekcapitalsattachedtothedoorways，andwoodenpedimentsoverthewindows，areveryfrequent。

Asarule，theseareattachedtohouseswhich，withoutsuchornamentation，wouldbesimple，unpretentious，square，roomyresidences。AnIonicorCorinthiancapitalstuckontoalogofwoodcalledacolumn，andthenfixedpromiscuouslytotheoutsideofanordinaryhouse，istomyeyethevilestofarchitecturalpretenses。Littleturretsarebetterthanthis，orevenbrownbattlementsmadeofmortar。ExceptinAmericaIdonotremembertohaveseentheseviciousbitsofwhitetimber——timberpaintedwhite——

plasteredontothefrontsandsidesofredbrickhouses。

AgainwewentonbyrailtoBuffalo。IhavetraveledsomethousandsofmilesbyrailwayintheStates，takinglongjourneysbynightandlongerjourneysbyday；butIdonotrememberthatwhiledoingsoIevermadeacquaintancewithanAmerican。ToanAmericanladyinarailwaycarIshouldnomorethinkofspeakingthanIshouldtoanunknownfemaleinthenextpewtomeataLondonchurch。Itishardtounderstandfromwhencecomethelawswhichgovernsocietiesinthisrespect；buttherearedifferentlawsindifferentsocieties，whichsoonobtainrecognitionforthemselves。Americanladiesaremuchgiventotalking，andaregenerallyfreefromallmauvaisehonte。Theyarecollectedinmanner，wellinstructed，andresolvedtohavetheirshareofthesocialadvantagesoftheworld。InthisphaseoflifetheycomeoutmorestronglythanEnglishwomen。Butonarailwayjourney，beiteversolong，theyareneverseenspeakingtoastranger。

Englishwomen，however，onEnglishrailwaysaregenerallywillingtoconverse:theywilldosoiftheybeonajourney；butwillnotopentheirmouthsiftheybesimplypassingbackwardandforwardbetweentheirhomesandsomeneighboringtown。Wesoonlearntherulesonthesesubjects；butwhomaketherules？IfyoucrosstheAtlanticwithanAmericanladyyouinvariablyfallinlovewithherbeforethejourneyisover。Travelwiththesamewomaninarailwaycarfortwelvehours，andyouwillhavewrittenherdowninyourownmindinquiteotherlanguagethanthatoflove。

AndnowforBuffalo，andtheelevators。ItrustIhavemadeitunderstoodthatcorncomesintoBuffalo，notonlyfromChicago，ofwhichIhavespokenspecially，butfromalltheportsroundthelakes:Racine，Milwaukee，GrandHaven，PortSarnia，Detroit，Toledo，Cleveland，andmanyothers。Attheseportstheproduceisgenerallyboughtandsold；butatBuffaloitismerelypassedthroughagateway。Itistakenfromvesselsofasizefittedforthelakes，andplacedinothervesselsfittedforthecanal。ThisistheErieCanal，whichconnectsthelakeswiththeHudsonRiverandwithNewYork。TheproducewhichpassesthroughtheWellandCanal——thecanalwhichconnectsLakeErieandtheupperlakeswithLakeOntarioandtheSt。Lawrence——isnottranshipped，seeingthattheWellandCanal，whichislessthanthirtymilesinlength，givesapassagetovesselsof500tons。AsIhavebeforesaid，60，000，000bushelsofbreadstuffwerethuspushedthroughBuffalointheopenmonthsoftheyear1861。TheseopenmonthsrunfromthemiddleofApriltothemiddleofNovember；butthebusyperiodisthatofthelasttwomonths——thetime，thatis，whichintervenesbetweenthefullripeningofthecornandthecomingoftheice。

Anelevatorisasuglyamonsterashasbeenyetproduced。Inuncouthnessofformitoutdoesthoseobsoleteoldbruteswhousedtoroamaboutthesemi-aqueousworld，andliveamostuncomfortablelifewiththeirgreathungeringstomachsandhugeunsatisfiedmaws。

Theelevatoritselfconsistsofabigmovabletrunk——movableasisthatofanelephant，butnotpliable，andlessgracefuleventhananelephant\'s。Thisisattachedtoahugegranaryorbarn；butinordertogivealtitudewithinthebarnforthenecessarymovingupanddownofthistrunk——seeingthatitcannotbecurledgracefullytoitspurposesastheelephant\'siscurled——thereisanawkwardboxerectedontheroofofthebarn，givingsometwentyfeetofadditionalheight，upintowhichtheelevatorcanbethrust。Itwillbeunderstood，then，thatthisbigmovabletrunk，theheadofwhich，whenitisatrest，isthrustupintotheboxontheroof，ismadetoslantdowninanobliquedirectionfromthebuildingtotheriver；fortheelevatorisanamphibiousinstitution，andflourishesonlyonthebanksofnavigablewaters。Whenitsheadisensconcedwithinitsbox，andthebeastofpreyisthusnearlyhiddenwithinthebuilding，theunsuspiciousvesselisbroughtupwithinreachofthecreature\'strunk，anddownitcomes，likeamusquito\'sproboscis，rightthroughthedeck，inattheopenapertureofthehole，andsointotheveryvitalsandbowelsoftheship。Whenthere，itgoestoworkuponitsfoodwithagreedandanaviditythatisdisgustingtoabeholderofanytasteorimagination。AndnowImustexplaintheanatomicalarrangementbywhichtheelevatorstilldevoursandcontinuestodevour，tillthecornwithinitsreachhasallbeenswallowed，masticated，anddigested。Itslongtrunk，asseenslantingdownfromoutofthebuildingacrossthewharfandintotheship，isamerewoodenpipe；

butthispipeisdividedwithin。Ithastwodepartments；andasthegrain-bearingtroughspassuptheoneonapliableband，theypassemptydowntheother。Thesystem，therefore，isthatofanordinarydredgingmachineonlythatcornandnotmudistakenaway，andthatthebucketsortroughsarehiddenfromsight。Below，withinthestomachofthepoorbark，threeorfourlaborersareatwork，helpingtofeedtheelevator。Theyshovelthecornuptowarditsmaw，sothatateveryswallowheshouldtakeinallthathecanhold。Thusthetroughs，astheyascend，arekeptfull，andwhentheyreachtheupperbuildingtheyemptythemselvesintoashoot，overwhichaporterstandsguard，moderatingtheshootbyadoor，whichtheweightofhisfingercanopenandclose。Throughthisdoorwaythecornrunsintoameasure，andisweighed。Bymeasuresoffortybushelseach，thetaleiskept。Therestandstheapparatus，withthefiguresplainlymarked，overagainsttheporter\'seye；andasthesummountsnearlyuptofortybushelsheclosesthedoortillthegrainsrunthinlythrough，hardlyahandfulatatime，sothatthebalanceisexactlystruck。Thenthetellerstandingbymarksdownhisfigure，andtherecordismade。

Theexactportertouchesthestringofanotherdoor，andthefortybushelsofcornrunoutatthebottomofthemeasure，disappeardownanothershoot，slantingalsotowardthewater，anddepositthemselvesinthecanalboat。Thetransitofthebushelsofcornfromthelargervesseltothesmallerwillhavetakenlessthanaminute，andthecostofthattransitwillhavebeen——afarthing。

ButIhavespokenoftheriversofwheat，andImustexplainwhatarethoserivers。Intheworkingoftheelevator，whichIhavejustattemptedtodescribe，thetwovesselsweresupposedtobelyingatthesamewharfonthesamesideofthebuilding，inthesamewater，thesmallervesselinsidethelargerone。Whenthisisthecasethecornrunsdirectfromtheweighingmeasureintotheshootthatcommunicateswiththecanalboat。Butthereisnotroomortimeforconfiningtheworktoonesideofthebuilding。Thereiswateronbothsides，andthecornorwheatiselevatedontheoneside，andreshippedontheother。Toeffectthisthecorniscarriedacrossthebreadthofthebuilding；but，nevertheless，itisneverhandledormovedinitsdirectionontrucksorcarriagesrequiringtheuseofmen\'smusclesforitsmotion。Acrossthefloorofthebuildingaretwogutters，orchannels，andthroughthese，smalltroughsonapliablebandcirculateveryquickly。

Theywhichrunoneway，inonechannel，areladen；theywhichreturnbytheotherchannelareempty。Thecornpoursitselfintothese，andtheyagainpouritintotheshootwhichcommandstheotherwater。Andthusriversofcornarerunningthroughthesebuildingsnightandday。Thesecretofallthemotionandarrangementconsists，ofcourse，intheelevation。Thecornisliftedup；andwhenliftedupcanmoveitselfandarrangeitself，andweighitself，andloaditself。

IshouldhavestatedthatallthiswheatwhichpassesthroughBuffalocomesloose，inbulk。Nothingisknownofsacksorbags。

ToanyspectatoratBuffalothisbecomesimmediatelyamatterofcourse；butthisshouldbeexplained，asweinEnglandarenotaccustomedtoseewheattravelinginthisopen，unguarded，andplebeianmanner。Wheatwithusisaristocratic，andtravelsalwaysinitsprivatecarriage。

OverandbeyondtheelevatorsthereisnothingspeciallyworthyofremarkatBuffalo。Itisafinecity，likeallotherAmericancitiesofitsclass。Thestreetsarebroad，the“blocks“arehigh，andcarsontramwaysrunallday，andnearlyallnightaswell。

CHAPTERXII。

BUFFALOTONEWYORK。

WehadnowbeforeusonlytwopointsofinterestbeforeweshouldreachNewYork——theFallsofTrenton，andWestPointontheHudsonRiver。WeweretoolateintheyeartogetuptoLakeGeorge，whichliesintheStateofNewYorknorthofAlbany，andis，infact，thesoutherncontinuationofLakeChamplain。LakeGeorge，I

know，isverylovely，andIwouldfainhaveseenit；butvisitorstoitmusthavesomehotelaccommodation，andthehotelwasclosedwhenwewerenearenoughtovisitit。Iwasinitscloseneighborhoodthreeyearssince，inJune；butthenthehotelwasnotyetopened。AvisitortoLakeGeorgemustbeveryexactinhistime。JulyandAugustarethemonths——with，perhaps，thegraceofaweekinSeptember。

ThehotelatTrentonwasalsoclosed，asIwastold。ButeveniftherewerenohotelatTrenton，itcanbevisitedwithoutdifficulty。ItiswithinacarriagedriveofUtica，andthereis，moreover，adirectrailwayfromUtica，withastationattheTrentonFalls。UticaisatownonthelineofrailwayfromBuffalotoNewYorkviaAlbany，andislikealltheothertownswehadvisited。Therearebroadstreets，andavenuesoftrees，andlargeshops，andexcellenthouses。Ageneralairoffatprosperitypervadesthemall，andisstrongatUticaaselsewhere。

Iremembertohavebeentold，thirtyyearsago，thatatravelermightgofarandwideinsearchofthepicturesquewithoutfindingaspotmoreromanticinitslovelinessthanTrentonFalls。ThenameoftheriverisCanadaCreekWest；butasthatishardlyeuphonious，thecourseofthewaterwhichformsthefallshasbeencalledafterthetownorparish。Thiscourseisnearlytwomilesinlength；andalongthespaceofthistwomilesitisimpossibletosaywherethegreatestbeautyexists。ToseeTrentonaright，onemustbecarefulnottohavetoomuchwater。Asufficiencyisnodoubtdesirable；anditmaybethatatthecloseofsummer，beforeanyoftheautumnalrainshavefallen，theremayoccasionallybeaninsufficiency。Butiftherebetoomuch，thepassageuptherocksalongtheriverisimpossible。Thewayonwhichthetouristshouldwalkbecomesthebedofthestream，andthegreatcharmoftheplacecannotbeenjoyed。Thatcharmconsistsindescendingintotheravineoftheriver，downamidtherocksthroughwhichithascutitschannel，andinwalkingupthebedagainstthestream，inclimbingthesidesofthevariousfalls，andstickingclosetotherivertillanenviousblockisreachedwhichcomessheerdownintothewaterandpreventsfartherprogress。Thisisnearlytwomilesabovethestepsbywhichthedescentismade；andnotafootofthisdistancebutiswildlybeautiful。Whentheriverisverylowthereisapathwayevenbeyondthatblock；butwhenthisisthecasetherecanhardlybeenoughofwatertomakethefallsatisfactory。

ThereisnoonespecialcataractatTrentonwhichisinitselfeitherwonderfulorpre-eminentlybeautiful。Itistheposition，form，color，andrapidityoftheriverwhichgivesthecharm。Itrunsthroughadeepravine，atthebottomofwhichthewaterhascutforitselfachannelthroughtherocks，thesidesofwhichrisesometimeswiththesharpnessofthewallsofastonesarcophagus。

Theyarerounded，too，towardthebedasIhaveseenthebottomofasarcophagus。Alongthesideoftherightbankoftheriverthereisapassagewhich，whenthefreshetscome，isaltogethercovered。

Thispassageissometimesverynarrow；butinthenarrowestpartsanironchainisaffixedintotherock。Itisslipperyandwet；

anditiswellforladies，whenvisitingtheplace，tobeprovidedwithoutsideIndia-rubbershoes，whichkeepaholduponthestone。

IfIrememberrightly，therearetwoactualcataracts——onenotfarabovethestepsbywhichthedescentismadeintothechannel，andtheothercloseunderasummer-house，neartowhichthevisitorsreascendintothewood。Butthesecataracts，thoughbynomeansdespicableascataracts，leavecomparativelyaslightimpression。

Theytumbledownwithsufficientviolenceandtheusualfantasticdispositionoftheirforces；butsimplyascataractswithinaday\'sjourneyofNiagara，theywouldbenothing。Upbeyondthesummer-

housethepassagealongtherivercanbecontinuedforanothermile；butitisrough，andtheclimbinginsomeplacesratherdifficultforladies。Everyman，however，whohastheuseofhislegsshoulddoit；forthesuccessionofrapids，andthetwistingsofthechannels，andtheformsoftherocksareaswildandbeautifulastheimaginationcandesire。Thebanksoftheriverarecloselywoodedoneachside；andthoughthiscircumstancedoesnotatfirstseemtoaddmuchtothebeauty，seeingthattheravineissodeepthattheabsenceofwoodabovewouldhardlybenoticed，stilltherearebrokencleftseverandanonthroughwhichthecolorsofthefoliageshowthemselves，andstragglingboughsandroughrootsbreakthroughtherockshereandthere，andaddtothewildnessandcharmofthewhole。

Thewalkbackfromthesummer-housethroughthewoodisverylovely；butitwouldbeadisappointingwalktovisitorswhohadbeenpreventedbyafloodintheriverfromcomingupthechannel，foritindicatesplainlyhowrequisiteitisthattherivershouldbeseenfrombelowandnotfromabove。Thebestviewofthelargerfallitselfisthatseenfromthewood。AndhereagainIwouldpointoutthatanymalevisitorshouldwalkthechanneloftheriverupanddown。Thedescentistooslipperyanddifficultforbipedsladenwithpetticoats。WefoundasmallhotelopenatTrenton，atwhichwegotacomfortabledinner，andthenintheeveningweredrivenbacktoUtica。

AlbanyisthecapitaloftheStateofNewYork，andourroadfromTrentontoWestPointlaythroughthattown；butthesepoliticalStatecapitalshavenointerestinthemselves。TheStatelegislaturewasnotsitting；andwewenton，merelyremarkingthatthemannerinwhichtherailwaycarsaremadetorunbackwardandforwardthroughthecrowdedstreetsofthetownmustcauseafrequentlossofhumanlife。OneisledtosupposethatchildreninAlbanycanhardlyhaveachanceofcomingtomaturity。Suchaccidentsdonotbecomethesubjectoflong-continuedandstrongcommentintheStatesastheydowithus；butneverthelessIshouldhavethoughtthatsuchastateofthingsaswesawtherewouldhavegivenrisetosomeremarkonthepartofthephilanthropists。I

cannotmyselfsaythatIsawanybodykilled，andthereforeshouldnotbejustifiedinmakingmorethanthispassingremarkonthesubject。

WhenfirsttheAmericansoftheNorthernStatesbegantotalkmuchoftheircountry，theirclaimsastofinescenerywereconfinedtoNiagaraandtheHudsonRiver。OfNiagaraIhavespoken；andalltheworldhasacknowledgedthatnoclaimmadeonthatheadcanberegardedasexaggerated。AstotheHudsonIamnotpreparedtosaysomuchgenerally，thoughthereisonespotuponitwhichcannotbebeatenforsweetness。IhavebeenupanddowntheHudsonbywater，andconfessthattheentireriverispretty。Butthereismuchofitthatisnotpre-eminentlyprettyamongrivers。Asawhole，itcannotbenamedwiththeUpperMississippi，withtheRhine，withtheMoselle，orwiththeUpperRhone。ThepalisadesjustoutofNewYorkarepretty，andthewholepassagethroughthemountainsfromWestPointuptoCatskillandHudsonisinteresting。ButthegloryoftheHudsonisatWestPointitself；andthitheronthisoccasionwewentdirectbyrailway，andthereweremainedfortwodays。TheCatskillMountainsshouldbeseenbyadetourfromofftheriver。Wedidnotvisitthem，becausehereagainthehotelwasclosed。Iwillleavethem，therefore，forthenewhandbookwhichMr。Murraywillsoonbringout。

OfWestPointthereissomethingtobesaidindependentlyofitsscenery。ItistheSandhurstoftheStates。Hereistheirmilitaryschool，fromwhichofficersaredraftedtotheirregiments，andthetuitionformilitarypurposesis，Iimagine，ofahighorder。ItmustofcoursebeborneinmindthatWestPoint，evenasatpresentarranged，isfittedtothewantsoftheoldarmy，andnottothatofthearmynowrequired。Itcangobutalittlewaytosupplyofficersfor500，000men；butwoulddomuchtowardsupplyingthemfor40，000。AtthetimeofmyvisittoWestPointtheregulararmyoftheNorthernStateshadnoteventhenswelleditselftothelatternumber。

Ifoundthattherewere220studentsatWestPoint；thataboutfortygraduateeveryyear，eachofwhomreceivesacommissioninthearmy；thatabout120pupilsareadmittedeveryyear；andthatinthecourseofeveryyearabouteightyeitherresign，orarecalledupontoleaveonaccountofsomedeficiency，orfailintheirfinalexamination。Theresultissimplythis，thatone-thirdofthosewhoentersucceeds，andthattwo-thirdsfail。Thenumberoffailuresseemedtometobeterriblylarge——solargeastogivegreatgroundofhesitationtoaparentinacceptinganominationforthecollege。Iespeciallyinquiredintotheparticularsofthesedismissalsandresignations，andwasassuredthatthemajorityofthemtakeplaceinthefirstyearofthepupilage。Itissoonseenwhetherornoaladhasthementalandphysicalcapacitiesnecessaryfortheeducationandfutureliferequiredofhim，andcareistakenthatthoseshallberemovedearlyastowhomitmaybedeterminedthatthenecessarycapacityisclearlywanting。Ifthisisdone——andIdonotdoubtit——theevilismuchmitigated。Theeffectotherwisewouldbeveryinjurious。Theladsremaintilltheyareperhapsoneandtwenty，andhavethenacquiredaptitudesformilitarylife，butnootheraptitudes。Atthatagetheeducationcannotbecommencedanew，and，moreover，atthatagethedisgraceoffailureisveryinjurious。Theperiodofeducationusedtobefiveyears，buthasnowbeenreducedtofour。Thiswasdoneinorderthatadoubleclassmightbegraduatedin1861tosupplythewantsofthewar。Ibelieveitisconsideredthatbutforsuchnecessityasthat，thefifthyearofeducationcanbeillspared。

Thediscipline，toourEnglishideas，isverystrict。Inthefirstplacenokindofbeer，wine，orspiritsisallowedatWestPoint。

Thelawuponthispointmaybesaidtobeveryvehement，foritdebarseventhevisitorsatthehotelfromthesolaceofaglassofbeer。Thehoteliswithintheboundsofthecollege，andastheladsmightbecomepurchasersatthebar，thereisnobarallowed。

Anybreachofthislawleadstoinstantexpulsion；or，Ishouldsayrather，anydetectionofsuchbreach。Theofficerwhoshowedusoverthecollegeassuredmethatthepresenceofaglassofwineinayoungman\'sroomwouldsecurehisexclusion，eventhoughthereshouldbenoevidencethathehadtastedit。Hewasveryfirmastothis；butalittlebirdofWestPoint，whoseinformation，thoughnotofficialorprobablyaccurateinwords，seemedtometobeworthyofrelianceingeneral，toldmethateyeswerewonttowinkwhensuchglassesofwinemadethemselvesunnecessarilyvisible。

LetusfancyanEnglishmessofyoungmenfromseventeentotwenty-

one，atwhichamugofbeerwouldbefelonyandaglassofwinehightreason！ButthewholemanagementoftheyoungwiththeAmericansdiffersmuchfromthatinvoguewithus。Wedonotrequiresomuchatsoearlyanage，eitherinknowledge，inmorals，oreveninmanliness。InAmerica，ifaladbeundercontrol，asatWestPoint，heiscalleduponforanamountoflaborandadegreeofconductwhichwouldbeconsideredquitetranscendentalandoutofthequestioninEngland。Butifhebenotundercontrol，ifattheageofeighteenhebelivingathome，orbefromhiscircumstancesexemptfromprofessorialpower，heisafull-fledgedman，withhispipeapparatusandhisbaracquaintances。

AndthenIwastold，atWestPoint，howneedfulandyethowpainfulitwasthatallshouldberemovedwhowereinanywaydeficientincredittotheestablishment。“Ourrulesareveryexact，“myinformanttoldme；“butthecarryingoutofourrulesisatasknotalwaysveryeasy。“AstothisalsoIhadalreadyheardsomethingfromthatlittlebirdofWestPoint；butofcourseIwiselyassentedtomyinformant，remarkingthatdisciplineinsuchanestablishmentwasessentiallynecessary。ThelittlebirdhadtoldmethatdisciplineatWestPointhadbeenrenderedterriblydifficultbypoliticalinterference。“Ayoungmanwillbedismissedbytheunanimousvoiceoftheboard，andwillbesentaway。Andthen，afteraweekortwo，hewillbesentback，withanorderfromWashingtonthatanothertrialshallbegivenhim。Theladwillmarchbackintothecollegewithallthehonorsofavictory，andwillbeconsciousofatriumphoverthesuperintendentandhisofficers。““Andisthatcommon？“Iasked。“Notatthepresentmoment，“Iwastold。“Butitwascommonbeforethewar。

WhileMr。Buchanan，andMr。Pierce，andMr。PolkwerePresidents，noofficerorboardofofficersthenatWestPointwasabletodismissaladwhosefatherwasaSoutherner，andwhohadfriendsamongthegovernment。“

NotonlywasthistrueofWestPoint，butthesameallegationistrueastoallmattersofpatronagethroughouttheUnitedStates。

Duringthethreeorfourlastpresidencies，andIbelievebacktothetimeofJackson，therehasbeenanorganizedsystemofdishonestyinthemanagementofallbeneficialplacesunderthecontrolofthegovernment。IdoubtwhetheranydespoticcourtofEuropehasbeensocorruptinthedistributionofplaces——thatis，intheselectionofpublicofficers——ashasbeentheassemblageofstatesmenatWashington。Andthisistheevilwhichthecountryisnowexpiatingwithitsbloodandtreasure。Ithasalloweditsknavestostandinthehighplaces；andnowitfindsthatknavishworkshavebroughtaboutevilresults。ButofthisIshallbeconstrainedtosaysomethingfurtherhereafter。

Wewentintoalltheschoolsofthecollege，andmadeourselvesfullyawarethattheamountoflearningimpartedwasfaraboveourcomprehension。Italwaysoccurstome，inlookingthroughthenewschoolsofthepresentday，thatIoughttobethankfultopersonswhoknowsomuchforcondescendingtospeaktomeatallinplainEnglish。Isaidawordtothegentlemanwhowaswithmeabouthorses，seeingalotofladsgoingtotheirridinglesson。Buthewasdownuponme，andcrushedmeinstantlybeneaththeweightofmyownignorance。Hewalkedmeuptotheimageofahorse，whichhetooktopieces，bitbybit，takingoffskin，muscle，flesh，nerves，andbones，tilltheanimalwasaheapofatoms，andassuredmethattheanatomyofthehorsethroughoutwasoneofthenecessarystudiesoftheplace。Weafterwardwenttoseetheriding。Thehorsesthemselveswerepoorenough。Thiswasaccountedforbythefactthatsuchofthemashadbeenfoundfitformilitaryservicehadbeentakenfortheuseofthearmy。

Thereisagalleryinthecollegeinwhicharehungsketchesandpicturesbyformerstudents。Iwasgreatlystruckwiththemeritofmanyofthese。Thereweresomecopiesfromwell-knownworksofartofveryhighexcellence，whentheageistakenintoaccountofthosebywhomtheyweredone。Idon\'tknowhowfartheartofdrawing，astaughtgenerally，andwithnospecialtendencytomilitaryinstruction，maybenecessaryformilitarytraining；butifitbenecessaryIshouldimaginethatmoreisdoneinthatdirectionatWestPointthanatSandhurst。Ifound，however，thatmuchofthatinthegallery，whichwasgood，hadbeendonebyladswhohadnotobtainedtheirdegree，andwhohadshownanaptitudefordrawing，buthadnotshownanyaptitudeforotherpursuitsnecessarytotheirintendedcareer。

Andthenweweretakentothechapel，andtheresaw，displayedastrophies，twoofourowndearoldEnglishflags。Ihaveseenmanyabannerhungupintokenofpastvictory，andmanyaflagtakenonthefieldofbattlemoulderingbydegreesintodustonsomechapel\'swall——buttheyhavenotbeentheflagsofEngland。TillthisdayIhadneverseenourowncolorsinanypositionbutoneofself-assertionandindependentpower。Fromthetoneusedbythegentlemanwhoshowedthemtome，Icouldgatherthathewouldhavepassedthemby，hadhenotforeseenthathecouldnotdosowithoutmynotice。“Idon\'tknowthatwearerighttoputthemthere，“hesaid。“Quiteright，“wasmyreply，“aslongastheworlddoessuchthings。“Inprivatelifeitisvulgartotriumphoverone\'sfriends，andmalicioustotriumphoverone\'senemies。Wehavenotgotsofaryetinpubliclife，butIhopeweareadvancingtowardit。InthemeantimeIdidnotbegrudgetheAmericansourtwoflags。Ifwekeepflagsandcannonstakenfromourenemies，andshowthemaboutassignsofourownprowessafterthoseenemieshavebecomefriends，whyshouldnotothersdosoasregardsus？Itclearlywouldnotbewellfortheworldthatweshouldalwaysbeatothernationsandneverbebeaten。Ididnotbegrudgethatchapelourtwoflags。But，nevertheless，thesightofthemmademesickinthestomachanduncomfortable。AsanEnglishmanIdonotwanttobeascendantoveranyone。Butitmakesmeveryillwhenanyonetriestobeascendantoverme。Iwishwecouldsendbackwithourcomplimentsallthetrophiesthatwehold，carriagepaid，andgetbackinreturnthosetwoflags，andanyotherflagortwoofourownthatmaybedoingsimilardutyabouttheworld。Itakeitthattheparcelsentawaywouldbesomewhatmorebulkythanthatwhichwouldreachusinreturn。

ThedisciplineatWestPointseemed，asIhavesaid，tobeverysevere；butitseemedalsothatthatseveritycouldnotinallcasesbemaintained。Thehoursofstudyalsowerelong，beingnearlycontinuousthroughouttheday。“Englishladsofthatagecouldnotdoit，“Isaid；thusconfessingthatEnglishladsmusthaveinthemlesspowerofsustainedworkthanthoseofAmerica。

“Theymustdoithere，“saidmyinformant，“orelseleaveus。“Andthenhetookusofftooneoftheyounggentlemen\'squarters，inorderthatwemightseethenatureoftheirrooms。Wefoundtheyounggentlemanfastasleeponhisbed，andfeltuncommonlygrievedthatweshouldhavethusintrudedonhim。Asthehourwasoneofthoseallocatedbymyinformantinthedistributionofthedaytoprivatestudy，IcouldnotbuttakethepresentoccupationoftheembryowarriorasanindicationthattheamountoflaborrequiredmightbeoccasionallytoomuchevenforanAmericanyouth。“Theheatmakesonesouncommonlydrowsy，“saidtheyoungman。Iwasnottheleastsurprisedattheexclamation。Theairoftheapartmenthadbeenwarmeduptosuchapitchbythehot-pipeapparatusofthebuildingthatprolongedlifetomewould，Ishouldhavethought，beoutofthequestioninsuchanatmosphere。“Doyoualwayshaveitashotasthis？“Iasked。Theyoungmansworethatitwasso，andwithconsiderableenergyexpressedhisopinionthatallhishealth，andspirits，andvitalitywerebeingbakedoutofhim。Heseemedtohaveastrongopiniononthematter，forwhichIrespectedhim；butithadneveroccurredtohim，anddidnotthenoccurtohim，thatanythingcouldbedonetomoderatethatdeathlyflowofhotairwhichcameuptohimfromtheneighboringinfernalregions。Hewaspaleintheface，andalltheladstherewerepale。Americanladsandlassesareallpale。Menatthirtyandwomenattwenty-fivehavehadallsemblanceofyouthbakedoutofthem。Infantsevenarenotrosy，andtheonlyshadesknownonthecheeksofchildrenarethosecomposedofbrown，yellow，andwhite。Allthiscomesofthosedamnablehot-airpipeswithwhicheverytenementinAmericaisinfested。“Wecannotdowithoutthem，“theysay。“Ourcoldissointensethatwemustheatourhousesthroughout。Openfire-placesinafewroomswouldnotkeepourtoesandfingersfromthefrost。“Thereismuchinthis。Theassertionisnodoubttrue，andtherebyagreatdifficultyiscreated。ItisnodoubtquitewithinthepowerofAmericaningenuitytomoderatetheheatofthesestoves，andtoproducesuchanatmosphereasmaybemostconducivetohealth。Inhospitalsnodoubtthiswillbedone；perhapsisdoneatpresent——thougheveninhospitalsIhavethoughttheairhotterthanitshouldbe。Buthot-airdrinkingislikedram-drinking。Thereisthemachinewithinthehousecapableofsupplyinganyquantity，andthosewhoconsumeitunconsciouslyincreasetheirdraughts，andtaketheirdrainsstrongerandstronger，tillabreathoffreshairisfelttobeablastdirectfromBoreas。

WestPointisatallpointsamilitarycolony，and，assuch，belongsexclusivelytotheFederalgovernmentasseparatefromthegovernmentofanyindividualState。ItisthepurchasedpropertyoftheUnitedStatesasawhole，andisdevotedtothenecessitiesofamilitarycollege。Nomancouldtakeahousethere，orsucceedingettingevenpermanentlodgings，unlesshebelongedtoorwereemployedbytheestablishment。ThereisnointercoursebyroadbetweenWestPointandothertownsorvillagesontheriverside，andanysuchintercourseevenbywaterislookeduponwithjealousybytheauthorities。ThewishisthatWestPointshouldbeisolatedandkeptapartformilitaryinstructiontotheexclusionofallotherpurposeswhatever——especiallylove-makingpurposes。Thecomingoverfromtheothersideofthewaterofyoungladiesbytheferryisregardedasagreathinderance。Theywillcome，andthenthemilitarystudentswilltalktothem。Weallknowtowhatsuchtalkingleads！AladwhenIwastherehadbeentemptedtogetoutofbarracksinplainclothes，inorderthathemightcallonayoungladyatthehotel；andwasinconsequenceobligedtoabandonhiscommissionandretirefromtheAcademy。Willthatyoungladyeveragainsleepquietlyinherbed？Ishouldhopenot。Anopinionwasexpressedtomethatthereshouldbenohotelinsuchaplace——thatthereshouldbenoferry，noroads，nomeansbywhichtheattentionofthestudentsshouldbedistracted——thatthesemilitaryRasselasesshouldliveinahappymilitaryvalleyfromwhichmightbeexcludedbothstrongdrinksandfemalecharms——thosetwopoisonsfromwhichyouthfulmilitaryardorissupposedtosuffersomuch。

Italwaysseemstomethatsuchtrainingbeginsatthewrongend。

Iwillnotsaythatnothingshouldbedonetokeepladsofeighteenfromstrongdrinks。Iwillnotevensaythatthereshouldnotbesomelineofmoderationwithreferencetofeminineallurements。

But，asarule，therestraintshouldcomefromthesense，goodfeeling，andeducationofhimwhoisrestrained。Thereisnoembargoonthebeer-shopseitheratHarroworatOxford——andcertainlynoneupontheyoungladies。Occasionaldamagemayaccruefromhabitsearlydepraved，orahearttooearlyandtooeasilysusceptible；buttheinjurysodoneisnot，Ithink，equaltothatinflictedbyaDraconiancodeofmorals，whichwillprobablybeevaded，andwillcertainlycreateadesireforitsevasion。

Nevertheless，IfeelassuredthatWestPoint，takenasawhole，isanexcellentmilitaryacademy，andthatyoungmenhavegoneforthfromit，andwillgoforthfromit，fitforofficersasfarastrainingcanmakemenfit。Thefault，iffaulttherebe，isthatwhichistobefoundinsomanyoftheinstitutionsoftheUnitedStates，andisonesoalliedtoavirtue，thatnoforeignerhasarighttowonderthatitisregardedinthelightofavirtuebyallAmericans。Therehasbeenanattempttomaketheplacetooperfect。Inthedesiretohavetheestablishmentself-sufficientatallpoints，morehasbeenattemptedthanhumannaturecanachieve。TheladistakentoWestPoint，anditispresumedthatfromthemomentofhisreceptionheshallexpendeveryenergyofhismindandbodyinmakinghimselfasoldier。Atfifteenheisnottobeaboy，attwentyheisnottobeayoungman。Heistobeagentleman，asoldier，andanofficer。Ibelievethatthosewholeavethecollegeforthearmyaregentlemen，soldiers，andofficers，and，therefore，theresultisgood。Buttheyarealsoyoungmen；anditseemsthattheyhavebecomeso，notinaccordancewiththeirtraining，butinspiteofit。

ButIhaveanothercomplainttomakeagainsttheauthoritiesofWestPoint，whichtheywillnotbeabletoanswersoeasilyasthatalreadypreferred。WhatrightcantheyhavetotaketheveryprettiestspotontheHudson——theprettiestspotonthecontinent——

oneoftheprettiestspotswhichNature，withallhervagaries，everformed——andshutitupfromalltheworldforpurposesofwar？

Wouldnotanyplain，howeverugly，doformilitaryexercises？

Cannotbroadsword，goose-step，anddouble-quicktimebeinstilledintoyounghandsandlegsinanyfieldofthirty，forty，orfiftyacres？Iwonderwhethertheseladsappreciatethefactthattheyarestudyingfourteenhoursadayamidthesweetestriver，rock，andmountainscenerythattheimaginationcanconceive。Ofcourseitwillbesaid，thattheworldatlargeisnotexcludedfromWestPoint，thattheferrytotheplaceisopen，andthatthereisevenahotelthere，closedagainstnomanorwomanwhowillconsenttobecomeateetotallerfortheperiodofhisvisit。Imustadmitthatthisisso；butstillonefeelsthatoneisonlyadmittedasaguest。IwanttogoandliveatWestPoint，andwhyshouldIbeprevented？Thegovernmenthadarighttobuyitofcourse，butgovernmentshouldnotbuyuptheprettiestspotsonacountry\'ssurface。IfIwereanAmerican，Ishouldmakeagrievanceofthis；

butAmericanswillsufferthingsfromtheirgovernmentwhichnoEnglishmenwouldendure。

ItisoneofthepeculiaritiesofWestPointthateverythingthereisingoodtaste。ThepointitselfconsistsofabluffoflandsoformedthattheRiverHudsonisforcedtorunroundthreesidesofit。Itisconsequentlyapeninsula；andasthesurroundingcountryismountainousonbothsidesoftheriver，itmaybeimaginedthatthesiteisgood。Theviewsbothupanddowntheriverarelovely，andthemountainsbehindbreakthemselvessoastomakethelandscapeperfect。Butthisisnotall。AtWestPointthereismuchofbuildings，muchofmilitaryarrangementinthewayofcannons，forts，andartilleryyards。Allthesethingsaresocontrivedastogroupthemselveswellintopictures。Thereisnopictureofarchitecturalgrandeur；buteverythingstandswellandwhereitshouldstand，andtheeyeisnothurtatanyspot。I

regardWestPointasadelightfulplace，andwasmuchgratifiedbythekindnessIreceivedthere。

FromWestPointwewentdirecttonewYork。

CHAPTERXIII。

ANAPOLOGYFORTHEWAR。

IthinkitmaybereceivedasafactthattheNorthernStates，takentogether，sentafulltenthoftheirable-bodiedmenintotheranksofthearmyinthecourseofthesummerandautumnof1861。

TheSouth，nodoubt，sentamuchlargerproportion；buttheeffectofsuchadrainupontheSouthwouldnotbethesame，becausetheslaveswereleftathometoperformtheagriculturalworkofthecountry。Iverymuchdoubtwhetheranyothernationevermadesuchaneffortinsoshortatime。Toapeoplewhocandothisitmaywellbegrantedthattheyareinearnest；andIdonotthinkitshouldbelightlydecidedbyanyforeignerthattheyarewrong。

Thestrongandunanimousimpulseofagreatpeopleisseldomwrong。

Andletitbeborneinmindthatinthiscasebothpeoplemayberight——thepeoplebothofNorthandSouth。Eachmayhavebeenguidedbyajustandnoblefeeling，thougheachwasbroughttoitspresentconditionbybadgovernmentanddishoneststatesmen。

Therecanbenodoubtthat，sincethecommencementofthewartheAmericanfeelingagainstEnglandhasbeenverybitter。AllAmericanstowhomIspokeonthesubjectadmittedthatitwasso。

I，asanEnglishman，feltstronglytheinjusticeofthisfeeling，andlostnoopportunityofshowing，orendeavoringtoshow，thatthelineofconductpursuedbyEnglandtowardtheStateswastheonlylinewhichwascompatiblewithherownpolicyandjustinterestsandalsowiththedignityoftheStatesgovernment。I

heardmuchofthetendersympathyofRussia。Russiasentaflourishinggeneralmessage，sayingthatshewishedtheNorthmightwin，andendingwithsomegoodgeneraladviceproposingpeace。Itwassuchamessageasstrongnationssendtothosewhichareweaker。HadEnglandventuredonsuchcounsel，thediplomaticpaperwouldprobablyhavebeenreturnedtoher。Itis，Ithink，manifestthatanabsoluteanddisinterestedneutralityhasbeentheonlycoursewhichcouldpreserveEnglandfromdeservedrebuke——aneutralityonwhichhercommercialnecessityforimportingcottonorexportingherownmanufacturesshouldhavenoeffect。ThatourgovernmentwouldpreservesuchaneutralityIhavealwaysinsisted；

andIbelieveithasbeendonewithapureandstrictdisregardtoanyselfishviewsonthepartofGreatBritain。SofarIthinkEnglandmayfeelthatshehasdonewellinthismatter。ButImustconfessthatIhavenotbeensoproudofthetoneofallourpeopleathomeasIhavebeenofthedecisionsofourstatesmen。ItseemstomethatsomeofusnevertireinabusingtheAmericans，andcallingthemnamesforhavingallowedthemselvestobedrivenintothiscivilwar。Wetellthemthattheyarefoolsandidiots；wespeakoftheirdoingsasthoughtherehadbeensomeplaincoursebywhichthewarmighthavebeenavoided；andwethrowitintheirteeththattheyhavenocapabilityforwar。Wetellthemofthedebtwhichtheyarecreating，andpointouttothemthattheycanneverpayit。Welaughattheirattempttosustainloyalty，andspeakofthemasasteadyfatherofafamilyiswonttospeakofsomeunthriftyprodigalwhoisthrowingawayhisestateandhurryingfromoneruinousdebaucherytoanother。And，alas！wetoofrequentlyallowtoescapefromussomeexpressionofthatsatisfactionwhichonerivaltradesmanhasinthedownfallofanother。“Hereyouarewithallyourboasting，“iswhatwesay。

“Youweregoingtowhipallcreationtheotherday；andithascometothis！Bragisagooddog，butHoldfastisabetter。Prayrememberthat，ifeveryoufindyourselvesonyourlegsagain。“

Thatlittleadviceaboutthetwodogsisverywell，andwasnotaltogetherinapplicable。Butthisisnotthetimeinwhichitshouldbegiven。Puttingasideslightasperities，wewillallownthatthepeopleoftheStateshavebeenandareourfriends，andthatasfriendswecannotsparethem。ForoneEnglishmanwhobringshometohisownheartafeelingofcordialityforFrance——abeliefintheaffectionofourFrenchalliance——therearetenwhodosowithreferencetotheStates。Now，inthesedaysoftheirtrouble，Ithinkthatwemighthavebornewiththemmoretenderly。

Andhowwasitpossiblethattheyshouldhaveavoidedthiswar？I

willnotnowgointothecauseofit，ordiscussthecoursewhichithastaken，butwillsimplytakeupthefactoftherebellion。

TheSouthrebelledagainsttheNorth；andsuchbeingthecase，wasitpossiblethattheNorthshouldyieldwithoutawar？ItmayverylikelybewellthatHungaryshouldbeseveredfromAustria，orPolandfromRussia，orVenicefromAustria。TakingEnglishmeninalump，theythinkthatsuchseparationwouldbewell。Thesubjectpeopledonotspeakthelanguageofthosethatgovernthemorenjoykindredinterests。ButyetwhenmilitaryeffortsaremadebythosewhogovernHungary，Poland，andVenicetopreventsuchseparation，wedonotsaythatRussiaandAustriaarefools。Wearenotsurprisedthattheyshouldtakeuparmsagainsttherebels，butwouldbeverymuchsurprisedindeediftheydidnotdoso。Weknowthatnothingbutweaknesswouldpreventtheirdoingso。ButifAustriaandRussiainsistontyingtothemselvesapeoplewhodonotspeaktheirlanguageorliveinaccordancewiththeirhabits，andarenotconsideredunreasonableinsoinsisting，howmuchmorethoroughlywouldtheycarrywiththemthesympathyoftheirneighborsinpreventinganysecessionbyintegralpartsoftheirownnationalities！WouldEnglandletIrelandwalkoffbyherself，ifshewishedit？In1843shedidwishit。Three-fourthsoftheIrishpopulationwouldhavevotedforsuchaseparation；butEnglandwouldhavepreventedsuchasecessionvietarmis，hadIrelanddrivenhertothenecessityofsuchprevention。

Iwillputittoanyreaderofhistorywhether，sincegovernmentcommenced，ithasnotbeenregardedasthefirstdutyofgovernmenttopreventaseparationoftheterritoriesgoverned；andwhether，also，ithasnotbeenregardedasapointofhonorwithallnationalitiestopreserveuninjuredeachitsowngreatnessanditsownpower？ItrustthatImaynotbethoughttoarguethatallgovernments，orevenallnationalities，shouldsucceedinsuchendeavors。Fewkingshavefallen，inmyday，inwhosefateIhavenotrejoiced——none，Itakeit，exceptthatpoorcitizenKingoftheFrench。AndIcanrejoicethatEnglandlostherAmericancolonies，andshallrejoicewhenSpainhasbeendeprivedofCuba。ButIholdthatcitizenKingoftheFrenchinsmallesteem，seeingthathemadenofight；andIknowthatEnglandwasboundtostrugglewhentheBostonpeoplethrewherteaintothewater。SpainkeepsatighterhandonCubathanwethoughtshewouldsometenyearssince，andthereforeshestandshigherintheworld\'srespect。

ItmaybewellthattheSouthshouldbedividedfromtheNorth。I

aminclinedtothinkthatitwouldbewell——atanyratefortheNorth；buttheSouthmusthavebeenawarethatsuchdivisioncouldonlybeeffectedintwoways:eitherbyagreement，inwhichcasethepropositionmusthavebeenbroughtforwardbytheSouthanddiscussedbytheNorth，orbyviolence。Theychosethelatterway，asbeingthereadierandthesurer，asmostsecedingnationshavedone。O\'Connell，whenstrugglingforthesecessionofIreland，chosetheother，andnothingcameofit。TheSouthchoseviolence，andpreparedforitsecretlyandwithgreatadroitness。Ifthatbenotrebellion，thereneverhasbeenrebellionsincehistorybegan；

andifcivilwarwaseverjustifiedinoneportionofanationbyturbulenceinanother，ithasnowbeenjustifiedintheNorthernStatesofAmerica。

WhatwastheNorthtodo；thisfoolishNorth，whichhasbeensoliberallytoldbyusthatshehastakenuparmsfornothing，thatsheisfightingfornothing，andwillruinherselffornothing？

Whenwasshetotakethefirststeptowardpeace？SurelyeveryEnglishmanwillrememberthatwhentheearliesttidingsofthecomingquarrelreachedusontheelectionofMr。Lincoln，wealldeclaredthatanydivisionwasimpossible；itwasameremadnesstospeakofit。TheStates，whichweresogreatintheirunity，wouldneverconsenttobreakupalltheirprestigeandalltheirpowerbyaseparation！WouldithavebeenwellfortheNorththentosay，“IftheSouthwishitwewillcertainlyseparate？“Afterthat，whenMr。Lincolnassumedthepowertowhichhehadbeenelected，anddeclaredwithsufficientmanliness，andsufficientdignityalso，thathewouldmakenowarupontheSouth，butwouldcollectthecustomsandcarryonthegovernment，didweturnroundandadvisehimthathewaswrong？No。TheideainEnglandthenwasthathismessagewas，ifanything，toomild。“IfhemeanstobePresidentofthewholeUnion，“Englandsaid，“hemustcomeoutwithsomethingstrongerthanthat。“ThencameMr。Seward\'sspeech，whichwas，intruth，weakenough。Mr。SewardhadranMr。LincolnveryhardforthePresident\'schairontheRepublicaninterest，andwas，mostunfortunately，asIthink，madeSecretaryofStatebyMr。

Lincoln，orbyhisparty。TheSecretaryofStateholdsthehighestofficeintheUnitedStatesgovernmentunderthePresident。HecannotbecomparedtoourPrimeMinister，seeingthatthePresidenthimselfexercisespoliticalpower，andisresponsibleforitsexercise。Mr。Seward\'sspeechsimplyamountedtoadeclarationthatseparationwasathingofwhichtheUnionwouldneitherhear，speak，nor，ifpossible，think。Thingslookedverylikeit；butno，theycouldnevercometothat！Theworldwastoogood，andespeciallytheAmericanworld。Mr。Sewardhadnospecificagainstsecession；butleteveryfreemanstrikehisbreast，lookuptoheaven，determinetobegood，andallwouldgoright。AgreatdealhadbeenexpectedfromMr。Seward，andwhenthisspeechcameout，weinEnglandwerealittledisappointed，andnobodypresumedeventhenthattheNorthwouldlettheSouthgo。

ItwillbearguedbythosewhohavegoneintothedetailsofAmericanpoliticsthatanacceptanceoftheCrittendencompromiseatthispointwouldhavesavedthewar。WhatisorwastheCrittendencompromiseIwillendeavortoexplainhereafter；butthetermsandmeaningofthatcompromisecanhavenobearingonthesubject。TheRepublicanpartywhowereinpowerdisapprovedofthatcompromise，andcouldnotmodeltheircourseuponit。TheRepublicanpartymayhavebeenrightormayhavebeenwrong；butsurelyitwillnotbearguedthatanypoliticalpartyelectedtopowerbyamajorityshouldfollowthepolicyofaminority，lestthatminorityshouldrebel。Icanconceiveofnogovernmentmorelowlyplacedthanonewhichdesertsthepolicyofthemajoritywhichsupportsit，fearingeitherthetonguesorarmsofaminority。

Asthenextsceneintheplay，theStateofSouthCarolinabombardedFortSumter。Wasthattobethemomentforapeaceableseparation？LetussupposethatO\'ConnellhadmarcheddowntothePigeonHouse，atDublin，andhadtakenit，in1843，letussay，wouldthathavebeenanargumenttousforallowingIrelandtosetupforherself？Isthatthewayofmen\'sminds，orofthemindsofnations？ThepowersofthePresidentweredefinedbylaw，asagreeduponamongalltheStatesoftheUnion，andagainstthatpowerandagainstthatlawSouthCarolinaraisedherhand，andtheotherStatesjoinedherinrebellion。Whencircumstanceshadcometothat，itwasnolongerpossiblethattheNorthshouldshunthewar。Tomythinkingtherightsofrebellionareholy。Wherewouldtheworldhavebeen，orwherewouldtheworldhopetobe，withoutrebellion？Butletrebellionlookthetruthintheface，andnotblanchfromitsownconsequences。Shehastojudgeherownopportunitiesandtodecideonherownfitness。Successisthetestofherjudgment。Butrebellioncanneverbesuccessfulexceptbyovercomingthepoweragainstwhichsheraisesherself。Shehasnorighttoexpectbloodlesstriumphs；andifshebenotthestrongerintheencounterwhichshecreates，shemustbearthepenaltyofherrashness。Rebellionisjustifiedbybeingbetterservedthanconstitutedauthority，butcannotbejustifiedotherwise。Nowandagainitmayhappenthatrebellion\'scauseissogoodthatconstitutedauthoritywillfalltothegroundatthefirstglanceofhersword。ThiswassotheotherdayinNaples，whenGaribaldiblewawaytheking\'sarmieswithabreath。Butthisisnotsooften。Rebellionknowsthatitmustfight，andthelegalizedpoweragainstwhichrebelsrisemustofnecessityfightalso。

IcannotseeatwhatpointtheNorthfirstsinned；nordoIthinkthathadtheNorthyielded，Englandwouldhavehonoredherforhermeekness。Hadsheyieldedwithoutstrikingablow，shewouldhavebeentoldthatshehadsufferedtheUniontodropasunderbyhersupineness。Shewouldhavebeentwittedwithcowardice，andtoldthatshewasnomatchforSouthernenergy。Itwouldthenhaveseemedtothosewhosatinjudgmentonherthatshemighthaverightedeverythingbythatoneblowfromwhichshehadabstained。

Buthavingstruckthatoneblow，andhavingfoundthatitdidnotsuffice，couldshethenwithdraw，giveway，andownherselfbeaten？

HasitbeensousuallywithAnglo-Saxonpluck？Insuchcaseasthat，wouldtherehavebeennomentionofthosetwodogs，BragandHoldfast？ThemanoftheNorthernStatesknowsthathehasbragged——braggedasloudlyashisEnglishforefathers。Inthatmatterofbragging，theBritishlionandthestar-spangledbannermayabstainfromthrowingmudateachother。AndnowtheNorthernmanwishestoshowthathecanholdfastalso。LookingatallthisIcannotseethatpeacehasbeenpossibletotheNorth。

Astothequestionofsecessionandrebellionbeingoneandthesamething，thepointtomedoesnotseemtobearanargument。TheconfederationofStateshadacommonarmy，acommonpolicy，acommoncapital，acommongovernment，andacommondebt。Ifonemightsecede，anyorallmightsecede，andwherethenwouldbetheirproperty，theirdebt，andtheirservants？Aconfederationwithsuchalicenseattachedtoitwouldhavebeensimplyplayingatnationalpower。IfNewYorkhadseceded——aStatewhichstretchesfromtheAtlantictoBritishNorthAmerica——itwouldhavecutNewEnglandofffromtherestoftheUnion。WasitlegallywithinthepowerofNewYorktoplacethesixStatesofNewEnglandinsuchaposition？Andwhyshoulditbeassumedthatsosuicidalapowerofdestroyinganationalityshouldbeinherentineveryportionofthenation？TheSlatesareboundtogetherbyawrittencompact，butthatcompactgiveseachStatenosuchpower。Surelysuchapowerwouldhavebeenspecifiedhaditbeenintendedthatitshouldbegiven。Butthereareaxiomsinpoliticsasinmathematics，whichrecommendthemselvestothemindatonce，andrequirenoargumentfortheirproof。Menwhoarenotargumentativeperceiveatoncethattheyaretrue。Apartcannotbegreaterthanthewhole。

IthinkitisplainthattheremnantoftheUnionwasboundtotakeuparmsagainstthoseStateswhichhadillegallytornthemselvesofffromher；andifso，shecouldonlydosowithsuchweaponsaswereatherhand。TheUnitedStatesarmyhadneverbeennumerousorwellappointed；andofsuchofficersandequipmentsasitpossessed，themorevaluablepartwasinthehandsoftheSoutherners。Itwasclearenoughthatshewasillprovided，andthatingoingtowarshewasundertakingaworkastowhichshehadstilltolearnmanyoftherudiments。ButEnglishmenshouldbethelasttotwitherwithsuchignorance。Itisnotyettenyearssincewewereallboastingthatswordsandgunswereuselessthings，andthatmilitaryexpendituremightbecutdowntoanyminimumfigurethataneconomizingChancelloroftheExchequercouldname。Sincethatwehaveextemporizedtwoifnotthreearmies。Thereareourvolunteersathome；andthearmywhichholdsIndiacanhardlybeconsideredasonewiththatwhichistomaintainourprestigeinEuropeandtheWest。WemadesomenaturalblundersintheCrimea，butinmakingthoseblunderswetaughtourselvesthetrade。ItisthemisfortuneoftheNorthernStatesthattheymustlearntheselessonsinfightingtheirowncountrymen。Inthecourseofourhistorywehavesufferedthesamecalamitymorethanonce。TheRound-heads，whobeattheCavaliersandcreatedEnglishliberty，madethemselvessoldiersonthebodiesoftheircountrymen。ButEnglandwasnotruinedbythatcivilwar；

norwassheruinedbythosewhichprecededit。Fromoutoftheseshecameforthstrongerthansheenteredthem——stronger，better，andmorefitforagreatdestinyinthehistoryofnations。TheNorthernStateshadnearlyfivehundredthousandmenunderarmswhenthewinterof1861commenced，andforthatenormousmultitudeallcommissariatrequirementswerewellsupplied。Campsandbarrackssprangupthroughthecountryasthoughbymagic。

ClothingwasobtainedwitharapiditythathasIthink，neverbeenequaled。Thecountryhadnotbeenpreparedforthefabricationofarms，andyetarmswereputintothemen\'shandsalmostasquicklyastheregimentscouldbemustered。TheeighteenmillionsoftheNorthernStateslentthemselvestotheeffortasoneman。EachStategavethebestithadtogive。Newspaperswereasrabidagainsteachotherasever，butnonewspapercouldlivewhichdidnotsupportthewar。“TheSouthhasrebelledagainstthelaw，andthelawshallbesupported。“Thishasbeenthecryandtheheartfeltfeelingofallmen；anditisafeelingwhichcannotbutinspirerespect。

WehaveheardmuchofthetyrannyofthepresentgovernmentoftheUnitedStates，andofthetyrannyalsoofthepeople。Theyhavebothbeenverytyrannical。The“habeascorpus“hasbeensuspendedbythewordofoneman。Arrestshavebeenmadeonmenwhohavebeenhardlysuspectedofmorethansecessionprinciples。Arrestshave，Ibelieve，beenmadeincaseswhichhavebeendestituteevenofanyfairgroundforsuchsuspicion。NewspapershavebeenstoppedforadvocatingviewsopposedtothefeelingsoftheNorth，asfreelyasnewspaperswereeverstoppedinFranceforopposingtheEmperor。Amanhasnotbeensafeinthestreetswhowasknowntobeasecessionist。ItmustbeatonceadmittedthatopinionintheNorthernStateswasnotfreewhenIwasthere。Buthasopinioneverbeenfreeanywhereonallsubjects？Inthebestbuiltstrongholdsoffreedom，havetherenotalwaysbeenquestionsonwhichopinionhasnotbeenfree；andmustitnotalwaysbeso？

Whenthedecisionofapeopleonanymatterhasbecome，sotosay，unanimous——whenithasshownitselftobesogeneralastobeclearlytheexpressionofthenation\'svoiceasasinglechorus，thatdecisionbecomesholy，andmaynotbetouched。CouldanynewspaperbeproducedinEnglandwhichadvocatedtheoverthrowoftheQueen？AndwhymaynotthepassionfortheUnionbeasstrongwiththeNorthernStates，asthepassionfortheCrownisstrongwithus？TheCrownwithusisinnodanger，andthereforethematterisatrest。ButIthinkwemustadmitthatinanynation，letitbeeversofree，theremaybepointsonwhichopinionmustbeheldunderrestraint。Andastothosesummaryarrests，andthesuspensionofthe“habeascorpus，“istherenotsomethingtobesaidfortheStatesgovernmentonthatheadalso？Militaryarrestsareverydreadful，andthesoulofanation\'slibertyisthatpersonalfreedomfromarbitraryinterferencewhichissignifiedtotheworldbythosetwounintelligibleLatinwords。Aman\'sbodyshaltnotbekeptinduressatanyman\'swill，butshallbebroughtupintoopencourt，withuttermostspeed，inorderthatthelawmaysaywhetherornoitshouldbekeptinduress。ThatItakeitisthemeaningof“habeascorpus，“anditiseasytoseethatthesuspensionofthatprivilegedestroysallfreedom，andplacesthelibertyofeveryindividualatthemercyofhimwhohasthepowertosuspendit。Nothingcanbeworsethanthis:andsuchsuspension，ifextendedoveranylongperiodofyears，willcertainlymakeanationweak，meanspirited，andpoor。Butinaperiodofcivilwar，orevenofawidely-extendedcivilcommotion，thingscannotworkintheiraccustomedgrooves。Aladydoesnotwillinglygetoutofherbedroom-windowwithnothingonbuthernightgown；butwhenherhouseisonfiresheisverythankfulforanopportunityofdoingso。Itisnotlongsincethe“habeascorpus“wassuspendedinpartsofIreland，andabsurdarrestsweremadealmostdailywhenthatsuspensionfirsttookeffect。Itwasgrievousthatthereshouldbenecessityforsuchastep；anditisverygrievousnowthatsuchnecessityshouldbefeltintheNorthernStates。ButIdonotthinkthatitbecomesEnglishmentobearhardlyuponAmericansgenerallyforwhathasbeendoneinthatmatter。Mr。Seward，inanofficiallettertotheBritishMinisteratWashington——whichletter，throughofficialdishonesty，founditswaytothepress——claimedforthePresidenttherightofsuspendingthe“habeascorpus“intheStateswheneveritmightseemgoodtohimtodoso。Ifthisbeinaccordancewiththelawoftheland，whichIthinkmustbedoubted，thelawofthelandisnotfavorabletofreedom。Formyself，IconceivethatMr。LincolnandMr。Sewardhavebeenwrongintheirlaw，andthatnosuchrightisgiventothePresidentbytheConstitutionoftheUnitedStates。ThisI

willattempttoproveinsomesubsequentchapter。ButIthinkitmustbefeltbyallwhohavegivenanythoughttotheConstitutionoftheStates，thatletwhatmaybetheletterofthelaw，thePresidentsoftheUnitedStateshavehadnosuchpower。ItisbecausetheStateshavebeennolongerunited，thatMr。Lincolnhashadthepower，whetheritbegiventohimbythelaworno。

Andthenastothedebt；itseemstomeverysingularthatweinEnglandshouldsupposethatagreatcommercialpeoplewouldberuinedbyanationaldebt。Asregardsourselves，Ihavealwayslookedonournationaldebtastheballastinourship。Wehaveagreatdealofballast，butthentheshipisverybig。TheStatesalsoaretakinginballastataratherrapidrate；andwetootookitinquicklywhenwewereaboutit。ButIcannotunderstandwhytheirshipshouldnotcarry，withoutshipwreck，thatwhichourshiphascarriedwithoutdamage，and，asIbelieve，withpositiveadvantagetoitssailing。Theballast，ifcarriedhonestly，willnot，Ithink，bringthevesseltogrief。Thefearislesttheballastshouldbethrownoverboard。

SomuchIhavesaidwishingtopleadthecauseoftheNorthernStatesbeforethebarofEnglishopinion，andthinkingthatthereisgroundforapleaintheirfavor。ButyetIcannotsaythattheirbitternessagainstEnglishmenhasbeenjustified，orthattheirtonetowardEnglandhasbeendignified。TheircomplaintisthattheyhavereceivednosympathyfromEngland；butitseemstomethatagreatnationshouldnotrequireanexpressionofsympathyduringitsstruggle。Sympathyisfortheweakratherthanforthestrong。WhenIheartwopowerfulmencontendingtogetherinargument，Idonotsympathizewithhimwhohasthebestofit；butIwatchtheprecisionofhislogicandacknowledgetheeffectsofhisrhetoric。TherehasbeenawhiningweaknessinthecomplaintsmadebyAmericansagainstEngland，whichhasdonemoretolowerthemasapeopleinmyjudgmentthananyotherpartoftheirconductduringthepresentcrisis。WhenwewereatwarwithRussia，thefeelingoftheStateswasstronglyagainstus。Alltheirwisheswerewithourenemies。WhentheIndianmutinywasatitsworst，thefeelingofFrancewasequallyadversetous。ThejoyexpressedbytheFrenchnewspaperswasalmostecstatic。ButI

donotthinkthatoneitheroccasionwebemoanedourselvessadlyonthewantofsympathyshownbyourfriends。Oneachoccasionwetooktheopinionexpressedforwhatitwasworth，andmanagedtoliveitdown。Welistenedtowhatwassaid，andletitpassby。

Whenineachcasewehadbeensuccessful，therewasanendofourfriends\'croakings。

ButintheNorthernStatesofAmericathebitternessagainstEnglandhasamountedalmosttoapassion。Theplayers——thosechroniclersofthetime——havehadnohitssosureasthosewhichhavebeenaimedatEnglishmenascowards，fools，andliars。NopaperhasdaredtosaythatEnglandhasbeentrueinherAmericanpolicy。ThenameofanEnglishmanhasbeenmadeaby-wordforreproach。Inprivateintercourseprivateamenitieshaveremained。

I，atanyrate，mayboastthatsuchhasbeenthecaseasregardsmyself。But，eveninprivatelife，IhavebeenunabletokeepdownthefeelingthatIhavealwaysbeenwalkingoversmotheredashes。

Itmaybethat，whenthecivilwarinAmericaisover，allthiswillpassby，andtherewillbenothingleftofinternationalbitternessbutitsmemory。Itissincerelytobehopedthatthismaybeso——thateventhememoryoftheexistingfeelingmayfadeawayandbecomeunreal。IforonecannotthinkthattwonationssituatedasaretheStatesandEnglandshouldpermanentlyquarrelandavoideachother。Butwordshavebeenspokenwhichwill，I

fear，longsoundinmen\'sears，andthoughtshavesprungupwhichwillnoteasilyallowthemselvestobeextinguished。

CHAPTERXIV。

NEWYORK。

SpeakingofNewYorkasatraveler，Ihavetwofaultstofindwithit。Inthefirstplace，thereisnothingtosee；and，inthesecondplace，thereisnomodeofgettingabouttoseeanything。

Nevertheless，NewYorkisamostinterestingcity。Itisthethirdbiggestcityintheknownworld，forthoseChinesecongregationsofunwingedantsarenotcitiesintheknownworld。Innoothercityisthereapopulationsomixedandcosmopolitanintheirmodesoflife。AndyetinnoothercitythatIhaveseenaretheresuchstrongandevervisiblecharacteristicsofthesocialandpoliticalbearingsofthenationtowhichitbelongs。NewYorkappearstomeasinfinitelymoreAmericanthanBoston，Chicago，orWashington。

Ithasnopeculiarattributeofitsown，ashavethosethreecities——Bostoninitsliteratureandaccomplishedintelligence，Chicagoinitsinternaltrade，andWashingtoninitsCongressionalandStatepolitics。NewYorkhasitsliteraryaspirations，itscommercialgrandeur，and，Heavenknows，ithasitspoliticsalso。

Butthesedonotstrikethevisitorasbeingspeciallycharacteristicofthecity。Thatitispre-eminentlyAmericanisitsgloryoritsdisgrace，asmenofdifferentwaysofthinkingmaydecideuponit。Freeinstitutions，generaleducation，andtheascendencyofdollarsarethewordswrittenoneverypaving-stonealongFifthAvenue，downBroadway，andupWallStreet。Everymancanvote，andvaluestheprivilege。Everymancanread，andusestheprivilege。Everymanworshipsthedollar，andisdownbeforehisshrinefrommorningtonight。

Asregardsvotingandreading，noAmericanwillbeangrywithmeforsayingsomuchofhim；andnoEnglishman，whatevermaybehisideasastothefranchiseinhisowncountry，willconceivethatI

havesaidaughttothedishonorofanAmerican。Butastothatdollar-worshiping，itwillofcourseseemthatIamabusingtheNewYorkers。Weallknowwhatawretchedlywickedthingmoneyis——howitstandsbetweenusandheaven——howithardensourheartsandmakesvulgarourthoughts！Diveshasevergonetothedevil，whileLazarushasbeenlaidupinheavenlylavender。Thehandthatemploysitselfincompellinggoldtoentertheserviceofmanhasalwaysbeenstigmatizedastheravisherofthingssacred。Theworldisagreedaboutthat，andthereforetheNewYorkerisinabadway。Thereareveryfewcitizensinanytownknowntomewhichunderthisdispensationareinagoodway，buttheNewYorkerisinabouttheworstwayofall。Othermen，theworldover，worshipregularlyattheshrinewithmatinsandvespers，nonesandcomplines，andwhateverotherdailyservicesmaybeknowntothereligioushouses；buttheNewYorkerisalwaysonhisknees。

ThatistheamountofthechargewhichIbringagainstNewYork；

andnow，havinglaidonmypaintthickly，Ishallproceed，likeanunskillfulartist，toscrapeagreatdealofitoffagain。NewYorkhasbeenaleadingcommercialcityintheworldfornotmorethanfiftyorsixtyyears。AsfarasIcanlearn，itspopulationatthecloseofthelastcenturydidnotexceed60，000，andtenyearslaterithadnotreached100，000。In1860ithadreachednearly800，000intheCityofNewYorkitself。TothisnumbermustbeaddedthenumbersofBrooklyn，Williamsburg，andJerseyCity，inorderthatatrueconceptionmaybehadofthepopulationofthisAmericanmetropolis，seeingthatthoseplacesareasmuchapartofNewYorkasSouthwarkisofLondon。Bythisthetotalwillbeswelledtoconsiderablyaboveamillion。Itwillnodoubtbeadmittedthatthisgrowthhasbeenveryfast，andthatNewYorkmaywellbeproudofit。Increaseofpopulationis，Itakeit，theonlytrustworthysignofanation\'ssuccessorofacity\'ssuccess。

WeboastthatLondonhasbeatentheothercitiesoftheworld，andthinkthatthatboastisenoughtocoverallthesocialsinsforwhichLondonhastoconfessherguilt。NewYork，beginningwith60，000sixtyyearssince，hasnowamillionsouls——amillionmouths，allofwhicheatasufficiencyofbread，allofwhichspeakorerotundo，andalmostallofwhichcanread。Andthishascomeofitsloveofdollars。

FormyselfIdonotbelievethatDivesissoblackasheispaintedorthathisperilissoimminent。ToreconcilesuchanopinionwithholywritmightplacemeinsomedifficultywereIaclergyman。Clergymen，inthesedays，aresurroundedbydifficultiesofthisnature——findingitnecessarytoexplainawaymanyold-establishedteachingswhichnarrowedtheChristianChurch，andtoopenthedoorwideenoughtosatisfytheaspirationsandnaturalhopesofinstructedmen。ThebrethrenofDivesarenowsomanyandsointelligentthattheywillnolongerconsenttobedamnedwithoutlookingcloselyintothematterthemselves。IwillleavethemtosettlethematterwiththeChurch，merelyassuringthemofmysympathyintheirlittledifficultiesinanycaseinwhichmeremoneycausesthehitch。

Toeathisbreadinthesweatofhisbrowwasman\'scurseinAdam\'sday，butiscertainlyman\'sblessinginourday。Andwhatiseatingone\'sbreadinthesweatofone\'sbrowbutmakingmoney？I

willbelievenomanwhotellsmethathewouldnotsoonerearntwoloavesthanone——andiftwo，thentwohundred。Iwillbelievenomanwhotellsmethathewouldsoonerearnonedollaradaythantwo——andiftwo，thentwohundred。Thatis，intheverynatureoftheargument，caeterisparibus。Whenamantellsmethathewouldpreferonehonestloaftotwothataredishonest，Iwill，inallpossiblecases，believehim。Soalsoamanmaypreferonequietloaftotwothatareunquiet。Butundercircumstancesthatarethesame，andtoamanwhoissane，awholeloafisbetterthanhalf，andtwoloavesarebetterthanone。Thepreachershavepreachedwell，butonthismattertheyhavepreachedinvain。DiveshasneverbelievedthathewillbedamnedbecauseheisDives。Hehasneverevenbelievedthatthetemptationsincidenttohispositionhavebeenmorethanafaircounterpoise，orevensomuchasafaircounterpoise，tohisopportunitiesfordoinggood。Allmenwhoworkdesiretoprosperbytheirwork，andtheysodesirebythenaturegiventothemfromGod。Wealthandprogressmustgoonhandinhandtogether，lettheaccidentswhichoccasionallydividethemforatimehappenasoftenastheymay。TheprogressoftheAmericanshasbeencausedbytheiraptitudeformoney-making；andthatcontinualkneelingattheshrineofthecoinedgoddesshascarriedthemacrossfromNewYorktoSanFrancisco。Menwhokneelatthatshrinearecalledontohavereadywitsandquickhands，andnotalittleaptitudeforself-denial。TheNewYorkerhasbeentruetohisdollarbecausehisdollarhasbeentruetohim。

ButnotonthisaccountcanI，noronthisaccountwillanyEnglishman，reconcilehimselftothesavorofdollarswhichpervadestheatmosphereofNewYork。Thearscelareartemiswanting。Themakingofmoneyistheworkofman；butheneednottakehisworktobedwithhim，andhaveiteverbyhissideattable，amidhisfamily，inchurch，whilehedisportshimself，ashedeclareshispassiontothegirlofhisheart，inthemomentsofhissoftestbliss，andattheperiodsofhismostsolemnceremonies。ThatmanydosoelsewherethaninNewYork——inLondon，forinstance，inParis，amongthemountainsofSwitzerland，andthesteppesofRussia——Idonotdoubt。Butthereisgenerallyavailthrownovertheobjectoftheworshiper\'sidolatry。InNewYorkone\'searisconstantlyfilledwiththefanatic\'svoiceasheprays，one\'seyesarealwaysonthefamiliaraltar。Thefrankincensefromthetempleiseverinone\'snostrils。IhaveneverwalkeddownFifthAvenuealonewithoutthinkingofmoney。I

haveneverwalkedtherewithacompanionwithouttalkingofit。I

fancythateverymanthere，inordertomaintainthespiritoftheplace，shouldbearonhisforeheadalabelstatinghowmanydollarsheisworth，andthateverylabelshouldbeexpectedtoassertafalsehood。