第4章

Godowntotheendofthatwoodenbridge，seatyourselfontherail，andtheresittillalltheouterworldislosttoyou。ThereisnogranderspotaboutNiagarathanthis。Thewatersareabsolutelyaroundyou。Ifyouhavethatpowerofeye-contriowhichissonecessarytothefullenjoymentofscenery，youwillseenothingbutthewater。Youwillcertainlyhearnothingelse；andthesound，Ibegyoutoremember，isnotanear-cracking，agonizingcrashandclangofnoises，butismelodiousandsoftwithal，thoughloudasthunder。Itfillsyourears，and，asitwere，envelopsthem，butatthesametimeyoucanspeaktoyourneighborwithoutaneffort。Butatthisplace，andinthesemoments，thelessofspeaking，Ishouldsay，thebetter。Thereisnogranderspotthanthis。Here，seatedontherailofthebridge，youwillnotseethewholedepthofthefall。Inlookingatthegrandestworksofnature，andofarttoo，Ifancyitisneverwelltoseeall。Thereshouldbesomethinglefttotheimagination，andmuchshouldbehalfconcealedinmystery。Thegreatestcharmofamountainrangeisthewildfeelingthattheremustbestrange，unknown，desolateworldsinthosefar-offvalleysbeyond。Andsohere，atNiagara，thatconvergingrushofwatersmayfalldown，downatonceintoahellofrivers，forwhattheeyecansee。Itisglorioustowatchthemintheirfirstcurveovertherocks。Theycomegreenasabankofemeralds，butwithafitful，flyingcolor，asthoughconsciousthatinonemomentmoretheywouldbedashedintosprayandriseintoair，paleasdrivensnow。Thevaporriseshighintotheair，andisgatheredthere，visiblealwaysasapermanentwhitecloudoverthecataract；butthebulkofthespraywhichfillsthelowerhollowofthathorseshoeislikeatumultofsnow。Thisyouwillnotfullyseefromyourseatontherail。Theheadofitriseseverandanonoutofthatcaldronbelow，butthecaldronitselfwillbeinvisible。Itiseversofardown——farasyourownimaginationcansinkit。Butyoureyeswillrestfulluponthecurveofthewaters。Theshapeyouwillbelookingatisthatofahorseshoe，butofahorseshoemiraculouslydeepfromtoetoheel；

andthisdepthbecomesgreaterasyousitthere。Thatwhichatfirstwasonlygreatandbeautifulbecomesgiganticandsublime，tillthemindisatlosstofindanepithetforitsownuse。TorealizeNiagara，youmustsittheretillyouseenothingelsethanthatwhichyouhavecometosee。Youwillhearnothingelse，andthinkofnothingelse。Atlengthyouwillbeatonewiththetumblingriverbeforeyou。Youwillfindyourselfamongthewatersasthoughyoubelongedtothem。Thecool，liquidgreenwillrunthroughyourveins，andthevoiceofthecataractwillbetheexpressionofyourownheart。Youwillfallasthebrightwatersfall，rushingdownintoyournewworldwithnohesitationandwithnodismay；andyouwillriseagainasthesprayrises，bright，beautiful，andpure。Thenyouwillflowawayinyourcoursetotheuncompassed，distant，andeternalocean。

Whenthisstatehasbeenreachedandhaspassedaway，youmaygetoffyourrailandmountthetower。Idonotquiteapproveofthattower，seeingthatithasaboutitagingerbreadair，andremindsoneofthosewell-arrangedscenesofromanceinwhichoneistoldthatontheleftyouturntothelady\'sbower，pricesixpence；andontherightascendtotheknight\'sbed，pricesixpencemore，withaviewofthehermit\'stombthrownin。Butneverthelessthetowerisworthmounting，andnomoneyischargedfortheuseofit。Itisnotveryhigh，andthereisabalconyatthetoponwhichsomehalfdozenpersonsmaystandatease。Herethemysteryislost，butthewholefallisseen。Itisnotevenatthisspotbroughtsofullybeforeyoureye，madetoshowitselfinsocompleteandentireashape，asitwilldowhenyoucometostandneartoitontheoppositeorCanadianshore。ButIthinkthatitshowsitselfmorebeautifully。Andtheformofthecataractissuchthathere，onGoatIsland，ontheAmericanside，nospraywillreachyou，althoughyouareabsolutelyoverthewaters。ButontheCanadianside，theroadasitapproachesthefalliswetandrottenwithspray，andyou，asyoustandcloseupontheedge，willbewetalso。

Therainbowsastheyareseenthroughtherisingcloud——forthesun\'sraysasseenthroughthesewatersshowthemselvesinabow，astheydowhenseenthroughrain——areprettyenough，andaregreatlyloved。Formyself，IdonotcareforthisprettinessatNiagara。Itisthere，butIforgetit，anddonotmindhowsoonitisforgotten。

Butwearestillonthetower；andhereImustdeclarethatthoughIforgivethetower，Icannotforgivethehorridobeliskwhichhaslatterlybeenbuiltoppositetoit，ontheCanadianside，upabovethefall；builtapparently——forIdidnotgotoit——withsomecamera-obscuraintentionforwhichtheprojectordeservestobeputinCoventrybyallgoodChristianmenandwomen。AtsuchaplaceasNiagaratastelessbuildings，runupinwrongplaceswithaviewtomoneymaking，areperhapsnecessaryevils。Itmaybethattheyarenotevilsatall；thattheygivemorepleasurethanpain，seeingthattheytendtotheenjoymentofthemultitude。Butthereareedificesofthisdescriptionwhichcryaloudtothegodsbytheforceoftheirownuglinessandmalposition。Astosuch，itmaybesaidthatthereshouldsomewhereexistapowercapableofcrushingthemintheirbirth。Thisnewobelisk，orpicture-buildingatNiagara，isoneofsuch。

Andnowwewillcrossthewater，andwiththisobjectwillreturnbythebridgeoutofGoatIsland，onthemainlandoftheAmericanside。Butaswedoso，letmesaythatoneofthegreatcharmsofNiagaraconsistsinthis:thatoverandabovethatonegreatobjectofwonderandbeauty，thereissomuchlittleloveliness——

lovelinessespeciallyofwaterImean。Therearelittlerivuletsrunninghereandthereoverlittlefalls，withpendentboughsabovethem，andstonesshiningundertheirshallowdepths。Asthevisitorstandsandlooksthroughthetrees，therapidsglitterbeforehim，andthenhidethemselvesbehindislands。Theyglitterandsparkleinfardistancesunderthebrightfoliage，tilltheremembranceislost，andoneknowsnotwhichwaytheyrun。Andthentheriverbelow，withitswhirlpool，——butweshallcometothatby-and-by，andtothemadvoyagewhichwasmadedowntherapidsbythatmadcaptainwhoranthegantletofthewatersattheriskofhisownlife，withfiftytooneagainsthim，inorderthathemightsaveanotherman\'spropertyfromthesheriff。

ThereadiestwayacrosstoCanadaisbytheferry；andontheAmericansidethisisverypleasantlydone。Yougointoalittlehouse，paytwentycents，takeaseatonawoodencarofwonderfulshape，andonthetouchofaspringfindyourselftravelingdownaninclinedplaneofterribledeclivity，andataveryfastrate。Youcatchaglanceoftheriverbelowyou，andrecognizethefactthatiftheropebywhichyouareheldshouldbreak，youwouldgodownataveryfastrateindeed，andfindyourfinalresting-placeintheriver。AsIhavegonedownsomedozentimes，andhavecometonosuchgrief，Iwillnotpresumethatyouwillbelesslucky。

Belowthereisaboatgenerallyready。Ifitbenotthere，theplaceisnotchosenamissforarestoftenminutes，forthelesserfalliscloseathand，andthelargeroneisinfullview。Lookingattherapidityoftheriver，youwillthinkthatthepassagemustbedangerousanddifficult。Butnoaccidentseverhappen，andtheladwhotakesyouoverseemstodoitwithsufficientease。Thewalkupthehillontheothersideisanotherthing。Itisverysteep，andforthosewhohavenotgoodlocomotivepoweroftheirown，willbefoundtobedisagreeable。Inthefullseason，however，carriagesaregenerallywaitingthere。InsoshortadistanceIhavealwaysbeenashamedtotrusttootherlegsthanmyown，butIhaveobservedthatAmericansarealwaysdraggedup。I

haveseensingleyoungmenoffromeighteentotwenty-five，fromwhoseoutwardappearancenostoryofidle，luxuriouslifecanberead，carriedaboutaloneincarriagesoverdistanceswhichwouldbecountedasnothingbyanyhealthyEnglishladyoffifty。NonebuttheoldinvalidsshouldrequiretheassistanceofcarriagesinseeingNiagara，butthetradeincarriagesistoallappearancethemostbrisktradethere。

HavingmountedthehillontheCanadaside，youwillwalkontowardthefalls。AsIhavesaidbefore，youwillfromthissidelookdirectlyintothefullcircleoftheuppercataract，whileyouwillhavebeforeyou，atyourlefthand，thewholeexpanseofthelesserfall。Forthosewhodesiretoseeallataglance，whowishtocomprisethewholewiththeireyes，andtoleavenothingtobeguessed，nothingtobesurmised，thisnodoubtisthebestpointofview。

Youwillbecoveredwithsprayasyouwalkuptotheledgeofrocks，butIdonotthinkthatthespraywillhurtyou。Ifamangetswetthroughgoingtohisdailywork，cold，catarrh，cough，andalltheirattendantevils，maybeexpected；butthesemaladiesusuallysparethetourist。Changeofair，plentyofair，excellenceofair，andincreasedexercise，makethesethingspowerless。Ishouldthereforebidyoudisregardthespray。If，however，youareyourselfofadifferentopinion，youmayhireasuitofoil-clothclothesfor，Ibelieve，aquarterofadollar。

Theyarenastyofcourse，andhavethisfurtherdisadvantage，thatyoubecomemuchmorewethavingthemonthanyouwouldbewithoutthem。

Here，onthisside，youwalkontotheveryedgeofthecataract，and，ifyourtreadbesteadyandyourlegsfirm，youdipyourfootintothewaterexactlyatthespotwherethethinoutsidemarginofthecurrentreachestherockyedgeandjumpstojointhemassofthefall。Thebedofwhitefoambeneathiscertainlyseenbetterherethanelsewhere，andthegreencurveofthewaterisasbrighthereaswhenseenfromthewoodenrailacross。ButneverthelessI

sayagainthatthatwoodenrailistheonepointfromwhenceNiagaramaybebestseenaright。

Closetothecataract，exactlyatthespotfromwhenceinformerdaystheTableRockusedtoprojectfromthelandovertheboilingcaldronbelow，thereisnowashaft，downwhichyouwilldescendtotheleveloftheriver，andpassbetweentherockandthetorrent。

ThisTableRockbrokeawayfromthecliffandfell，asupthewholecourseoftheriverthesecedingrockshavesplitandfallenfromtimetotimethroughcountlessyears，andwillcontinuetodotillthebedoftheupperlakeisreached。Youwilldescendthisshaft，takingtoyourselfornottakingtoyourselfasuitofoil-clothesasyoumaythinkbest。Ihavegonewithandwithoutthesuit，andagainrecommendthattheybeleftbehind。Iaminclinedtothinkthattheordinarypaymentshouldbemadefortheiruse，asotherwiseitwillappeartothosewhosetradeitistopreparethemthatyouareinjuringthemintheirvestedrights。

SomethreeyearssinceIvisitedNiagaraonmywaybacktoEnglandfromBermuda，andinavolumeoftravelswhichIthenpublishedI

endeavoredtoexplaintheimpressionmadeuponmebythispassagebetweentherockandthewaterfall。Anauthorshouldnotquotehimself；butasIfeelmyselfbound，inwritingachapterspeciallyaboutNiagara，togivesomeaccountofthisstrangeposition，I

willventuretorepeatmyownwords。

InthespottowhichIalludethevisitorstandsonabroad，safepath，madeofshingles，betweentherockoverwhichthewaterrushesandtherushingwater。Hewillgoinsofarthatthespray，risingbackfromthebedofthetorrent，doesnotincommodehim。

Withthisexception，thefartherhecangointhebetter；butcircumstanceswillclearlyshowhimthespottowhichheshouldadvance。Unlessthewaterbedriveninbyaverystrongwind，fiveyardsmakethedifferencebetweenacomparativelydrycoatandanabsolutelywetone。Andthenlethimstandwithhisbacktotheentrance，thushidingthelastglimmeroftheexpiringday。Sostanding，hewilllookupamongthefallingwaters，ordownintothedeep，mistypit，fromwhichtheyre-ascendinalmostaspalpableabulk。Therockwillbeathisrighthand，highandhard，anddarkandstraight，likethewallofsomehugecavern，suchaschildrenenterintheirdreams。Forthefirstfiveminuteshewillbelookingbutatthewatersofacataract——atthewaters，indeed，ofsuchacataractasweknownoother，andattheirinteriorcurveswhichelsewherewecannotsee。Butby-and-byallthiswillchange。Hewillnolongerbeonashinglypathbeneathawaterfall；butthatfeelingofacavernwallwillgrowuponhim，ofacaverndeep，belowroaringseas，inwhichthewavesarethere，thoughtheydonotenterinuponhim；orrather，notthewaves，buttheverybowelsoftheocean。Hewillfeelasthoughthefloodssurroundedhim，comingandgoingwiththeirwildsounds，andhewillhardlyrecognizethatthoughamongthemheisnotinthem。

Andthey，astheyfallwithacontinualroar，nothurtingtheear，butmusicalwithal，willseemtomoveasthevastoceanwatersmayperhapsmoveintheirinternalcurrents。Hewilllosethesenseofonecontinueddescent，andthinkthattheyarepassingroundhimintheirappointedcourses。Thebrokenspraythatrisesfromthedepthsbelow，risessostrongly，sopalpably，sorapidlythatthemotionineverydirectionwillseemequal。And，ashelookson，strangecolorswillshowthemselvesthroughthemist；theshadesofgraywillbecomegreenorblue，witheverandanonaflashofwhite；andthen，whensomegustofwindblowsinwithgreaterviolence，thesea-girtcavernwillbecomealldarkandblack。Oh，myfriend，lettherebenoonetheretospeaktotheethen；no，notevenabrother。Asyoustandtherespeakonlytothewaters。

Twomilesbelowthefallstheriveriscrossedbyasuspensionbridgeofmarvelousconstruction。Itaffordstwothoroughfares，oneabovetheother。Thelowerroadisforcarriagesandhorses，andtheupperonebearsarailwaybelongingtotheGreatWesternCanadaLine。Theviewfromhence，bothupanddowntheriver，isverybeautiful，forthebridgeisbuiltimmediatelyoverthefirstofaseriesofrapids。Onemilebelowthebridgetheserapidsendinabroadbasincalledthewhirlpool，and，issuingoutofthis，thecurrentturnstotherightthroughanarrowchanneloverhungbycliffsandtrees，andthenmakesitswaydowntoLakeOntariowithcomparativetranquillity。

ButIwillbegyoutotakenoticeofthoserapidsfromthebridge，andtoaskyourselfwhatchanceoflifewouldremaintoanyship，craft，orboatrequiredbydestinytoundergonavigationbeneaththebridgeanddownintothatwhirlpool。Heretoforeallmenwouldhavesaidthatnochanceoflifecouldremaintosoill-starredabark。Thenavigation，however，hasbeeneffected。Butmenusedtotheriverstillsaythatthechanceswouldbefiftytooneagainstanyvesselwhichshouldattempttorepeattheexperiment。

Thestoryofthatwondrousvoyagewasasfollows:Asmallsteamer，calledtheMaidoftheMist，wasbuiltupontheriver，betweenthefallsandtherapids，andwasusedfortakingadventuroustouristsupamidthesprayasneartothecataractaswaspossible。“TheMaidoftheMistpliedinthiswayforayearortwo，andwas，I

believe，muchpatronizedduringtheseason。Butintheearlypartoflastsummeraneviltimehadcome。EithertheMaidgotintodebt，orherownerhadembarkedinotherandlessprofitablespeculations。Atanyrate，hebecamesubjecttothelaw，andtidingsreachedhimthatthesheriffwouldseizetheMaid。Onmostoccasionsthesheriffisboundtokeepsuchintentionssecret，seeingthatpropertyismovable，andthataninsolventdebtorwillnotalwaysawaittheofficersofjustice。ButwiththepoorMaidtherewasnoneedofsuchsecrecy。Therewasbutamileorsoofwateronwhichshecouldply，andshewasforbiddenbythenatureofherpropertiestomakeanywayuponland，Thesheriff\'sprey，therefore，waseasy，andthepoorMaidwasdoomed。

InanycountryintheworldbutAmericasuchwouldhavebeenthecase；butanAmericanwouldsteamdownPhlegethontosavehispropertyfromthesheriff——hewouldsteamdownPhlegethon，orgetsomeoneelsetodoitforhim。Whetherorno，inthiscase，thecaptainoftheboatwastheproprietor，orwhether，asIwastold，hewaspaidforthejob，Idonotknow。Buthedeterminedtoruntherapids，andheprocuredtwootherstoaccompanyhimintherisk。Hegotuphissteam，andtooktheMaidupamidthesprayaccordingtohiscustom。Then，suddenlyturningonhiscourse，he，withoneofhiscompanions，fixedhimselfatthewheel，whiletheotherremainedathisengine。IwishIcouldlookintothemindofthatman，andunderstandwhathisthoughtswereatthatmoment——

whatwerehisthoughtsandwhathisbeliefs。Astooneofthemen，IwastoldthathewascarrieddownnotknowingwhathewasabouttodobutIaminclinedtobelievethatallthethreewerejoinedtogetherintheattempt。

Iwastoldbyamanwhosawtheboatpassunderthebridgethatshemadeonelongleapdown，asshecamethither；thatherfunnelwasatonceknockedflatonthedeckbytheforceoftheblow；thatthewaterscoveredherfromstemtostern；andthatthensheroseagain，andskimmedintothewhirlpoolamilebelow。Whentheresherodewithcomparativeeaseuponthewaters，andtookthesharpturnroundintotheriverbelowwithoutastruggle。Thefeatwasdone，andtheMaidwasrescuedfromthesheriff。Itissaidthatshewassoldbelowatthemouthoftheriver，andcarriedfromthenceoverLakeOntario，anddowntheSt。LawrencetoQuebec。

CHAPTERVIII。

NORTHANDWEST。

FromNiagarawedeterminedtoproceedNorthwest——asfartotheNorthwestaswecouldgowithanyreasonablehopeoffindingAmericancitizensinastateofpoliticalcivilization，andperhapsguidedalsoinsomemeasurebyourhopesastohotelaccommodation。

Lookingtothesetwomatters，weresolvedtogetacrosstotheMississippi，andtogoupthatriverasfarasthetownofSt。PaulandtheFallsofSt。Anthony，whicharesometwelvemilesabovethetown；thentodescendtheriverasfarastheStatesofIowaonthewestandIllinoisontheeast；andtoreturneastwardthroughChicagoandthelargecitiesonthesouthernshoresofLakeErie，fromwhencewewouldgoacrosstoAlbany，thecapitalofNewYorkstate，anddowntheHudsontoNewYork，thecapitaloftheWesternWorld。Forsuchajourney，inwhichscenerywasonegreatobject，wewereratherlate，aswedidnotleaveNiagaratillthe10thofOctober；butthoughthewintersareextremelycoldthroughallthisportionoftheAmericancontinent——fifteen，twenty，andeventwenty-fivedegreesbelowzerobeinganordinarystateoftheatmosphereinlatitudesequaltothoseofFlorence，Nice，andTurin——neverthelesstheautumnsaremild，thenoondaybeingalwayswarm，andthecolorsofthefoliagearetheninalltheirglory。I

wasalsoveryanxioustoascertain，ifitmightbeinmypowertodoso，withwhatspiritortruefeelingastothemattertheworkofrecruitingforthenowenormousarmyoftheStateswasgoingoninthoseremoteregions。ThatmenshouldbeonfireinBostonandNewYork，inPhiladelphiaandalongthebordersofsecession，I

couldunderstand。Icouldunderstandalsothattheyshouldbeonfirethroughoutthecotton，sugar，andriceplantationsoftheSouth。ButIcouldhardlyunderstandthatthispoliticalfervorshouldhavecommunicateditselftothefar-offfarmerswhohadthinlyspreadthemselvesovertheenormouswheat-growingdistrictsoftheNorthwest。St。Paul，thecapitalofMinnesota，isninehundredmilesdirectlynorthofSt。Louis，themostnorthernpointtowhichslaveryextendsintheWesternStatesoftheUnion；andthefarminglandsofMinnesotastretchawayagainforsomehundredsofmilesnorthandwestofSt。Paul。Coulditbethatthosescantyandfar-offpioneersofagriculture——thosefrontierfarmers，whoarenearlyone-halfGermanandnearlytheotherhalfIrish，woulddeserttheirclearingsandruintheirchancesofprogressintheworldfordistantwarsofwhichthecausesmust，asIthought，betothemunintelligible？Ihadbeentoldthatdistancehadbutlentenchantmenttotheview，andthatthewarwasevenmorepopularintheremoteandnewly-settledStatesthaninthosewhichhavebeenlongerknownasgreatpoliticalbodies。SoIresolvedthatIwouldgoandsee。

ItmaybeaswelltoexplainherethatthatgreatpoliticalUnionhithertocalledtheUnitedStatesofAmericamaybemoreproperlydividedintothreethanintotwodistinctinterests，InEnglandwehavelongheardofNorthandSouthaspittedagainsteachother，andwehavealwaysunderstoodthattheSouthernpoliticians，orDemocrats，haveprevailedovertheNorthernpoliticians，orRepublicans，becausetheywereassistedintheirviewsbyNorthernmenofmarkwhohaveheldSouthernprinciples——thatis，byNorthernmenwhohavebeenwillingtoobtainpoliticalpowerbyjoiningthemselvestotheSouthernparty。That，asfarasIcanunderstand，hasbeenthegeneralideainEngland，andinabroadwayithasbeentrue，Butasyearshaveadvanced，andastheStateshaveextendedthemselveswestward，athirdlargepartyhasbeenformed，whichsometimesrejoicestocallitselfTheGreatWest；andthough，atthepresenttime，theWestandtheNortharejoinedtogetheragainsttheSouth，theinterestsoftheNorthandWestarenot，Ithink，morecloselyinterwoventhanarethoseoftheWestandSouth；andwhenthefinalsettlementofthisquestionshallbemade，therewilldoubtlessbegreatdifficultyinsatisfyingthedifferentaspirationsandfeelingsoftwogreatfree-soilpopulations。TheNorth，Ithink，willultimatelyperceivethatitwillgainmuchbythesecessionoftheSouth；butitwillbeverydifficulttomaketheWestbelievethatsecessionwillsuititsviews。

Iwillattempt，inaroughway，todividetheStates，astheyseemtodividethemselves，intothesethreeparties。Astothemajorityofthem，thereisnodifficultyinlocatingthem；butthiscannotbedonewithabsolutecertaintyastosomefewthatlieontheborders。

NewEnglandconsistsofsixStates，ofwhichallofcoursebelongtotheNorth。TheyareMaine，NewHampshire，Vermont，Massachusetts，RhodeIsland，andConnecticut——thesixStateswhichshouldbemostdeartoEngland，andinwhichthepoliticalsuccessoftheUnitedStatesasanationistomyeyesthemostapparent。

ButeveninthemtherewastillquiteoflateastrongsectionsoopposedtotheRepublicanpartyastogiveamaterialaidtotheSouth。This，Ithink，wasparticularlysoinNewHampshire，fromwhencePresidentPiercecame。HehadbeenoneoftheSenatorsfromNewHampshire；andyettohim，asPresident，isaffixedthedisgrace——whethertrulyaffixedornotIdonotsay——ofhavingfirstusedhispowerinsecretlyorganizingthosearrangementswhichledtosecessionandassistedatitsbirth。InMassachusettsitself，also，therewasastrongDemocraticparty，ofwhichMassachusettsnowseemstobesomewhatashamed。Then，tomakeuptheNorth，mustbeaddedthetwogreatStatesofNewYorkandPennsylvaniaandthesmallStateofNewJersey。TheWestwillnotagreeeventothisabsolutely，seeingthattheyclaimallterritorywestoftheAlleghanies，andthataportionofPennsylvaniaandsomepartalsoofNewYorkliewestwardofthatrange；but，inendeavoringtomakethesedivisionsordinarilyintelligible，ImaysaythattheNorthconsistsofthenineStatesabovenamed。ButtheNorthwillalsoclaimMarylandandDelaware，andtheeasternhalfofVirginia。TheNorthwillclaimthem，thoughtheyareattachedtotheSouthbyjointparticipationinthegreatsocialinstitutionofslavery——forMaryland，Delaware，andVirginiaareslaveStates——andIthinkthattheNorthwillultimatelymakegooditsclaim。MarylandandDelawarelie，asitwere，behindthecapital，andEasternVirginiaiscloseuponthecapital。Andtheseregionsarenottropicalintheirclimateorinfluences。TheyareandhavebeenslaveStates，butwillprobablyridthemselvesofthattaint，andbecomeaportionofthefreeNorth。

TheSouthernorslaveStates，properlysocalled，areeasilydefined。TheyareTexas，Louisiana，Arkansas，Mississippi，Alabama，Florida，Georgia，SouthCarolina，andNorthCarolina。TheSouthwillalsoclaimTennessee，Kentucky，Missouri，Virginia，Delaware，andMaryland，andwillendeavortoproveitsrighttotheclaimbythefactofthesocialinstitutionbeingthelawofthelandinthoseStates。OfDelaware，Maryland，andEasternVirginia，Ihavealreadyspoken。WesternVirginiais，Ithink，solittletaintedwithslaverythat，asshestandsevenatpresent，sheproperlybelongstotheWest。AsInowwrite，thestruggleisgoingoninKentuckyandMissouri。InMissouritheslavepopulationisbarelymorethanatenthofthewhole，whileinSouthCarolinaandMississippiitismorethanhalf。And，therefore，I

venturetocountMissouriamongtheWesternStates，althoughslaveryisstillthelawofthelandwithinitsborders。ItissurroundedonthreesidesbyfreeStatesoftheWest，anditssoil，letushope，mustbecomefree。KentuckyImustleaveasdoubtful，thoughIaminclinedtobelievethatslaverywillbeabolishedtherealso。Kentucky，atanyrate，willneverthrowinitslotwiththeSouthernStates。AstoTennessee，itsecededheartandsoul，andIfearthatitmustbeaccountedasSouthern，althoughtheNorthernarmyhasnow，inMay，1862，possesseditselfofthegreaterpartoftheState。

TothegreatWestremainsanenormousterritory，ofwhich，however，thepopulationisasyetbutscanty；thoughperhapsnoportionoftheworldhasincreasedsofastinpopulationashavetheseWesternStates。Thelistisasfollows:Ohio，Indiana，Illinois，Michigan，Wisconsin，Minnesota，Iowa，KansastowhichIwouldaddMissouri，andprobablytheWesternhalfofVirginia。WehavethentoaccountforthetwoalreadyadmittedStatesonthePacific，CaliforniaandOregon，andalsofortheunadmittedTerritories，Dacotah，Nebraska，Washington，Utah，NewMexico，Colorado，andNevada。Ishouldberefiningtoomuchformypresentverygeneralpurpose，ifIweretoattempttomarshalthesehugebutthinly-populatedregionsineitherrank。OfCaliforniaandOregonitmayprobablybesaidthatitistheirambitiontoformthemselvesintoaseparatedivision——adivisionwhichmaybecalledthefartherWest。

Iknowthatallstatisticalstatementsaretedious，andIbelievethatbutfewreadersbelievethem。Iwill，however，venturetogivethepopulationsoftheseStatesintheorderIhavenamedthem，seeingthatpowerinAmericadependsalmostentirelyonpopulation。Thecensusof1860gavethefollowingresults:——

IntheNorth:

Maine619，000

NewHampshire326，872

Vermont325，827

Massachusetts1，231，494

RhodeIsland174，621

Connecticut460，670

NewYork3，851，563

Pennsylvania2，916，018

NewJersey676，034——

Total10，582，099

IntheSouth，thepopulationofwhichmustbedividedintofreeandslave:

Free。Slave。Total。

Texas415，999184，956600，955

Louisiana354，245312，186666，431

Arkansas331，710109，065440，775

Mississippi407，051479，607886，658

Alabama520，444435，473955，917

Florida81，88563，809145，694

Georgia615，366467，4611，082，827

SouthCarolina308，186407，185715，371

NorthCarolina679，965328，3771，008，342

Tennessee859，578287，1121，146，690——

Total4，574，4293，075，2317，649，660

inthedoubtfulStates:

Free。Slave。Total。

Maryland646，18385，382731，565

Delaware110，5481，805112，353

Virginia1，097，373495，8261，593，199

Kentucky920，077225，4901，145，567——

Total2，774，181808，5033，582，684

IntheWest:

Ohio2，377，917

Indiana1，350，802

Illinois1，691，238

Michigan754，291

Wisconsin763，485

Minnesota172，796

Iowa682，002

Kansas143，645

Missouri1，204，214*——

Total9，140，390

*Ofwhichnumber，inMissouri，115，619areslaves。

Tothesemustbeadded，tomakeupthepopulationoftheUnitedStatesasitstoodin1860，——

TheseparateDistrictofColumbia，inwhichisincludedWashington，theseatoftheFederalGovernment75，321

California384，770

Oregon52，566

TheTerritoriesof——

Dacotah4，839

Nebraska28，892

Washington11，624

Utah49，000

NewMexico98，024

Colorado34，197

Nevada6，857——

Total741，090

Andthusthetotalpopulationmaybegivenasfollows:——

North10，582，099

South7，649，660

Doubtful3，582，684

West9，140，390

OutlyingStatesandTerritories741，090——

Total31，695，923

Eachofthethreeinterestswouldconsideritselfwrongedbythedivisionabovemade，buttheSouthwouldprobablybetheloudestinassertingitsgrievance。TheSouthclaimsalltheslaveStates，andwouldpointtosecessioninVirginiatojustifysuchclaim，andwouldpointalsotoMarylandandBaltimore，declaringthatsecessionwouldbeasstrongthereasatNewOrleans，ifsecessionwerepracticable。MarylandandBaltimoreliebehindWashington，andareundertheheelsoftheNortherntroops，sothatsecessionisnotpracticable；buttheSouthwouldsaythattheyhavesecededinheart。InthistheSouthwouldhavesomeshowofreasonforitsassertion；butneverthelessIshallbestconveyatrueideaofthepositionoftheseStatesbyclassingthemasdoubtful。Whensecessionshallhavebeenaccomplished——ifeveritbeaccomplished——

itwillhardlybepossiblethattheyshouldadheretotheSouth。

ItwillbeseenbytheforegoingtablesthatthepopulationoftheWestisnearlyequaltothatoftheNorth，andthatthereforeWesternpowerisalmostasgreatasNorthern。Itisalmostasgreatalready，andaspopulationintheWestincreasesfasterthanitdoesintheNorth，thetwowillsoonbeequalized。Theyarealreadysufficientlyonapartoenablethemtofightonequalterms，andtheywillbepreparedforfighting——politicalfighting，ifnoother——assoonastheyhaveestablishedtheirsupremacyoveracommonenemy。

WhileIamonthesubjectofpopulationIshouldexplain——thoughthepointisnotonewhichconcernsthepresentargument——thatthenumbersgiven，astheyregardtheSouth，includeboththewhitesandtheblacks，thefreemenandtheslaves。ThepoliticalpoweroftheSouthisofcourseinthehandsofthewhiteraceonly，andthetotalwhitepopulationshouldthereforebetakenasthenumberindicatingtheSouthernpower。ThepoliticalpoweroftheSouth，however，ascontrastedwiththatoftheNorth，has，sincethecommencementoftheUnion，beenmuchincreasedbytheslavepopulation。TheslaveshavebeentakenintoaccountindeterminingthenumberofrepresentativeswhichshouldbesenttoCongressbyeachState。Thatnumberdependsonthepopulationbutitwasdecidedinl787thatincountingupthenumberofrepresentativestowhicheachStateshouldbeheldtobeentitled，fiveslavesshouldrepresentthreewhitemen。ASouthernpopulation，therefore，offivethousandfreemenandfivethousandslaveswouldclaimasmanyrepresentativesasaNorthernpopulationofeightthousandfreemen，althoughthevotingwouldbeconfinedtothefreepopulation。ThishaseversincebeenthelawoftheUnitedStates。

TheWesternpowerisnearlyequaltothatoftheNorth，andthisfact，somewhatexaggeratedinterms，isafrequentboastinthemouthsofWesternmen。“WeranFremontforPresident，“theysay，“andhaditnotbeenforNorthernmenwithSouthernprinciples，weshouldhaveputhimintheWhiteHouseinsteadofthetraitorBuchanan。Ifthathadbeendonetherewouldhavebeennosecession。“HowthingsmighthavegonehadFremontbeenelectedinlieuofBuchanan，Iwillnotpretendtosay；butthenatureoftheargumentshowsthedifferencethatexistsbetweenNorthernandWesternfeeling。AtthetimethatIwasintheWest，GeneralFremontwasthegreattopicofpublicinterest。Everynewspaperwasdiscussinghisconduct，hisabilityasasoldier，hisenergy，andhisfate。AtthattimeGeneralMcClellanwasincommandatWashingtononthePotomac，itbeingunderstoodthatheheldhispowerdirectlyunderthePresident，freefromtheexerciseofcontrolonthepartoftheveteranGeneralScott，thoughatthattimeGeneralScotthadnotactuallyresignedhispositionasheadofthearmy。AndGeneralFremont，whosomefiveyearsbeforehadbeen“run“forPresidentbytheWesternStates，heldanothercommandofnearlyequalindependenceinMissouri。HehadbeenputoverGeneralLyonintheWesterncommand，anddirectlyafterthisGeneralLyonhadfalleninbattleatSpringfield，inthefirstactioninwhichtheopposingarmieswereengagedintheWest。

GeneralFremontatonceproceededtocarrymatterswithaveryhighhand，Onthe30thofAugust，1861，heissuedaproclamationbywhichhedeclaredmartiallawatSt。Louis，thecityatwhichheheldhisheadquarters，andindeedthroughouttheStateofMissourigenerally。Inthisproclamationhedeclaredhisintentionofexercisingaseveritybeyondthateverthreatened，asIbelieve，inmodernwarfare。Hedefinestheregionpresumedtobeheldbyhisarmyofoccupation，drawinghislinesacrosstheState，andthendeclares“thatallpersonswhoshallbetakenwitharmsintheirhandswithinthoselinesshallbetriedbycourt-martial，andiffoundguiltywillbeshot。“HethengoesontosaythathewillconfiscateallthepropertyofpersonsintheStatewhoshallhavetakenuparmsagainsttheUnion，orshallhavetakenpartwiththeenemiesoftheUnion，andthathewillmakefreeallslavesbelongingtosuchpersons。ThisproclamationwasnotapprovedatWashington，andwasmodifiedbytheorderofthePresident。ItwasunderstoodalsothatheissuedordersformilitaryexpenditurewhichwerenotrecognizedatWashington，andmenbegantounderstandthatthearmyintheWestwasgraduallyassumingthatirresponsiblemilitarypositionwhich，indisturbedcountriesandintimesofcivilwar，hassofrequentlyresultedinamilitarydictatorship。ThentherearoseaclamorfortheremovalofGeneralFremont。Asemi-officialaccountofhisproceedings，whichhadreachedWashingtonfromanofficerunderhiscommand，wasmadepublic，andalsothecorrespondencewhichtookplaceonthesubjectbetweenthePresidentandGeneralFremont\'swife。Theofficerinquestionwasthereuponplacedunderarrest，butimmediatelyreleasedbyordersfromWashington。Hethenmadeofficialcomplaintofhisgeneral，sendingforwardalistofcharges，inwhichFremontwasaccusedofrashness，incompetency，wantoffidelityoftheinterestsofthegovernment，anddisobediencetoordersfromheadquarters。AfterawhiletheSecretaryofWarhimselfproceededfromWashingtontothequartersofGeneralFremontatSt。Louis，andremainedthereforadayortwomaking，orpretendingtomake，inquiryintothematter。ButwhenhereturnedhelefttheGeneralstillincommand。DuringthewholemonthofOctoberthepaperswereoccupiedindeclaringinthemorningthatGeneralFremonthadbeenrecalledfromhiscommand，andintheeveningthathewastoremain。Inthemeantimetheywhobefriendedhiscause，andthisincludedthewholeWest，werehopingfromdaytodaythathewouldsettlethematterforhimselfandsilencehisaccusers，bysomegreatmilitarysuccess。GeneralPriceheldthecommandopposedtohim，andmensaidthatFremontwouldsweepGeneralPriceandhisarmydownthevalleyoftheMississippiintothesea。ButGeneralPricewouldnotbesoswept，anditbegantoappearthataguerrillawarfarewouldprevail；thatGeneralPrice，ifdrivensouthward，wouldreappearbehindthebacksofhispursuers，andthatGeneralFremontwouldnotaccomplishallthatwasexpectedofhimwiththatrapidityforwhichhisfriendshadgivenhimcredit。Sothenewspapersstillwentonwagingthewar，andeverymorningGeneralFremontwasrecalled，andeveryeveningtheywhohadrecalledhimwereshownupashavingknownnothingofthematter。

“Nevermind；heisapioneerman，andwilldoa\'mostanythingheputshishandto，“hisfriendsintheWeststillsaid。“Heunderstandsthefrontier。“UnderstandingthefrontierisagreatthinginWesternAmerica，acrosswhichthevanguardofcivilizationcontinuestomarchoninadvancefromyeartoyear。“Andit\'shethatisboundtosweepslaveryfromoffthefaceofthiscontinent。

He\'stheman，andhe\'sabouttheonlyman。“IamnotqualifiedtowritethelifeofGeneralFremont，andcanatpresentonlymakethisslightreferencetothedetailsofhisromanticcareer。Thatithasbeenfullofromance，andthatthemanhimselfisenduedwithasingularenergy，andahigh，romanticideaofwhatmaybedonebypowerandwill，thereisnodoubt。FivetimeshehascrossedtheContinentofNorthAmericafromMissouritoOregonandCalifornia，enduringgreathardshipsintheserviceofadvancingcivilizationandknowledge。Thathehasconsiderabletalent，immenseenergy，andstrongself-confidence，Ibelieve。Heisafrontierman——oneofthosewhocarenothingfordanger，andwhowoulddareanythingwiththehopeofaccomplishingagreatcareer。

ButIhaveneverheardthathehasshownanypracticalknowledgeofhighmilitarymatters。Itmaybedoubtedwhetheramanofthisstampiswellfittedtoholdthecommandofanation\'sarmyforgreatnationalpurposes。Mayitnotevenbepresumedthatamanofthisclassisofallmentheleastfittedforsuchawork？Theofficerrequiredshouldbeamanwithtwospecialties——aspecialtyformilitarytacticsandaspecialtyfornationalduty。ThearmyintheWestwasfarremovedfromheadquartersinWashington，anditwaspeculiarlydesirablethatthegeneralcommandingitshouldbeonepossessingastrongideaofobediencetothecontrolofhisowngovernment。Thosefrontiercapabilities——thatself-dependentenergyforwhichhisfriendsgaveFremont，andprobablyjustlygavehim，suchunlimitedcredit——areexactlythequalitieswhicharemostdangerousinsuchaposition。

IhaveendeavoredtoexplainthecircumstancesoftheWesterncommandinMissouriastheyexistedatthetimewhenIwasintheNorthwesternStates，inorderthatthedoubleactionoftheNorthandWestmaybeunderstood。I，ofcourse，wasnotinthesecretofanyofficialpersons；butIcouldnotbutfeelsurethatthegovernmentinWashingtonwouldhavebeengladtohaveremovedFremontatoncefromthecommand，hadtheynotfearedthatbysodoingtheywouldhavecreatedaschism，asitwere，intheirowncamp，andhavedonemuchtobreakuptheintegrityoronenessofNorthernloyalty。TheWesternpeoplealmosttoamandesiredabolition。TheStatesthereweresendingouttheirtensofthousandsofyoungmenintothearmywithaprodigalityastotheironlysourceofwealthwhichtheyhardlyrecognizedthemselves，becausethistothemwasafightagainstslavery。TheWesternpopulationhasbeenincreasedtoawonderfuldegreebyaGermaninfusion——somuchsothattheWesterntownsappeartohavebeenpeopledwithGermans。IfoundregimentsofvolunteersconsistingwhollyofGermans。AndtheGermansareallabolitionists。ToallthemenoftheWestthenameofFremontisdear。HeistheirheroandtheirHercules。HeistocleansethestablesoftheSouthernking，andturnthewatersofemancipationthroughthefoulstallsofslavery。Andtherefore，thoughtheCabinetinWashingtonwouldhavebeengladformanyreasonstohaveremovedFremontinOctoberlast，itwasatfirstscaredfromcommittingitselftosostrongameasure。Atlast，however，thechargesmadeagainsthimweretoofullysubstantiatedtoallowoftheirbeingsetononeside；andearlyinNovember，1861，hewassuperseded。IshallbeobligedtoalludeagaintoGeneralFremont\'scareerasIgoonwithmynarrative。

AtthistimetheNorthwaslookingforavictoryonthePotomac；

buttheywerenolongerlookingforitwiththatimpatiencewhichinthesummerhadledtothedisgraceatBull\'sRun。Theyhadrecognizedthefactthattheirtroopsmustbeequipped，drilled，andinstructed；andtheyhadalsorecognizedtheperhapsgreaterfactthattheirenemieswereneitherweak，cowardly，norbadlyofficered。IhavealwaysthoughtthatthetoneandmannerwithwhichtheNorthborethedefeatatBull\'sRunwascreditabletoit。

Itwasneverdenied，neverexplainedaway，neversetdownastrifling。“Wehavebeenwhipped，“waswhatallNorthernerssaid；

“we\'vegotanalmightywhipping，andhereweare。“IhaveheardmanyEnglishmencomplainofthis——sayingthatthematterwastakenalmostasajoke，thatnodisgracewasfelt，andthatthelickingwasownedbyapeoplewhooughtnevertohaveallowedthattheyhadbeenlicked。Toallthis，however，Idemur。Theironlychanceofspeedysuccessconsistedintheirseeingandrecognizingthetruth。

Hadtheyconfessedthewhipping，andthensatdownwiththeirhandsintheirpockets——hadtheydoneassecond-rateboysatschoolwilldo，declarethattheyhadbeenlicked，andthenfeelthatallthetroubleisover——theywouldindeedhavebeenopentoreproach。Theoldmotheracrossthewaterwouldinsuchcasehavedisownedherson。Buttheydidtheveryreverseofthis。“Ihavebeenwhipped，“Jonathansaid，andheimmediatelywentintotrainingunderanewsystemforanotherfight。

AndsoallthroughSeptemberandOctoberthegreatarmiesonthePotomacrestedcomparativelyinquiet——theNorthernforcesdrawingtothemselvesimmenselevies。ThegeneralconfidenceinMcClellanwasthenverygreat；andthecautiousmeasuresbywhichheendeavoredtobringhisvastuntrainedbodyofmenunderdisciplineweresuchasdidatthattimerecommendthemselvestomostmilitarycritics。EarlyinSeptembertheNorthernpartyobtainedaconsiderableadvantagebytakingthefortatCapeHatteras，inNorthCarolina，situatedononeofthoselongbankswhichliealongtheshoresoftheSouthernStates；but，towardtheendofOctober，theyexperiencedaconsiderablereverseinanattackwhichwasmadeonthesecessionistsbyGeneralStone，andinwhichColonelBakerwaskilled。ColonelBakerhadbeenSenatorforOregon，andwaswellknownasanorator。Takingallthingstogether，however，nothingmaterialhadbeendoneuptotheendofOctober；andatthattimeNorthernmenwerewaiting——notperhapsimpatiently，consideringthegreathopesandperhapsgreatfearswhichfilledtheirhearts，butwitheagerexpectation——forsomeeventofwhichtheymighttalkwithpride。

Themantowhomtheyhadtrustedalltheirhopeswasyoungforsogreatacommand。Ithinkthat，atthistime，(October，1861，)

GeneralMcClellanwasnotyetthirty-five。Hehadserved，earlyinlife，intheMexicanwar，havingcomeoriginallyfromPennsylvania，andhavingbeeneducatedatthemilitarycollegeatWestPoint。

DuringourwarwithRussiahewassenttotheCrimeabyhisowngovernment，inconjunctionwithtwootherofficersoftheUnitedStatesarmy，thattheymightlearnallthatwastobelearnedthereastomilitarytactics，andreportespeciallyastothemannerinwhichfortificationsweremadeandattacked。Ihavebeeninformedthataveryablereportwassentinbythemtothegovernmentontheirreturn，andthatthiswasdrawnupbyMcClellan。ButinAmericaamanisnotonlyasoldier，oralwaysasoldier，norishealwaysaclergymanifonceaclergyman:hetakesaspellatanythingsuitablethatmaybegoing。AndinthiswayMcClellanwas，forsomeyears，engagedontheCentralIllinoisRailway，andwasforaconsiderabletimetheheadmanagerofthatconcern。WeallknowwithwhatsuddennessherosetothehighestcommandinthearmyimmediatelyafterthedefeatatBull\'sRun。

IhaveendeavoredtodescribewhatwerethefeelingsoftheWestintheautumnof1861withregardtothewar。Theexcitementandeagernesstherewereverygreat，andtheywereperhapsasgreatintheNorth。ButintheNorththematterseemedtometoberegardedfromadifferentpointofview。Asarule，themenoftheNortharenotabolitionists。Itisquitecertainthattheywerenotsobeforesecessionbegan。TheyhateslaveryasweinEnglandhateit；buttheyareaware，asalsoarewe，thatthedispositionoffourmillionofblackmenandwomenformsaquestionwhichcannotbesolvedbythechivalryofanymodernOrlando。ThepropertyinvestedinthesefourmillionslavesformstheentirewealthoftheSouth。IftheycouldbewaftedbyaphilanthropicbreezebacktotheshoresofAfrica——abreezeofwhichthephilanthropywouldcertainlynotbeappreciatedbythosesowafted——theSouthwouldbeawilderness。Thesubjectisoneasfullofdifficultyasanywithwhichthepoliticiansofthesedaysaretormented。TheNorthernersfullyappreciatethis，and，asarule，arenotabolitionistsintheWesternsenseoftheword。Tothemthewarisrecommendedbypreciselythosefeelingswhichanimateduswhenwefoughtforourcolonies——whenwestrovetoputdownAmericanindependence。

Secessionisrebellionagainstthegovernment，andisallthemorebittertotheNorthbecausethatrebellionbrokeoutatthefirstmomentofNorthernascendency。“Wesubmitted，“theNorthsays，“toSouthernPresidents，andSouthernstatesmen，andSoutherncouncils，becauseweobeyedthevoteofthepeople。Butastoyou——thevoiceofthepeopleisnothinginyourestimation！AtthefirstmomentinwhichthepopularvoteplacesatWashingtonaPresidentwithNorthernfeelings，yourebel。Wesubmittedinyourdays；and，byHeaven！youshallsubmitinours。Wesubmittedloyally，throughloveofthelawandtheConstitution。YouhavedisregardedthelawandthrownovertheConstitution。Butyoushallbemadetosubmit，asachildismadetosubmittoitsgovernor。“

ItmustalsoberememberedthatoncommercialquestionstheNorthandtheWestaredivided。TheMorrilltariffisasodioustotheWestasitistotheSouth。TheSouthandWestarebothagriculturalproductiveregions，desirousofsendingcottonandcorntoforeigncountries，andofreceivingbackforeignmanufacturesonthebestterms。ButtheNorthisamanufacturingcountry——apoormanufacturingcountryasregardsexcellenceofmanufacture——andthereforethemoreanxioustofosteritsowngrowthbyprotectivelaws。TheMorrilltariffisveryinjurioustotheWest，andisodiousthere。ImightaddthatitsfollyhasalreadybeensofarrecognizedevenintheNorthastomakeitverygenerallyodioustherealso。

SomuchIhavesaidendeavoringtomakeitunderstoodhowfartheNorthandWestwereunitedinfeelingagainsttheSouthintheautumnof1861，andhowfarthereexistedbetweenthemadiversityofinterests。

CHAPTERIX。

FROMNIAGARATOTHEMISSISSIPPI。

FromNiagarawewentbytheCanadaGreatWesternRailwaytoDetroit，thebigcityofMichigan。ItisanAmericaninstitutionthattheStatesshouldhaveacommercialcapital——orwhatIcalltheirbigcity——aswellasapoliticalcapital，whichmay，asarule，becalledtheState\'scentralcity。TheobjectinchoosingthepoliticalcapitalisaveragenearnessofapproachfromthevariousconfinesoftheStatebutcommercesubmitstonosuchProcrusteanlawsinselectinghercapitalsandconsequentlyshehasplacedDetroitonthebordersofMichigan，ontheshoreoftheneckofwaterwhichjoinsLakeHurontoLakeErie，throughwhichallthetrademustflowwhichcomesdownfromLakesMichigan，Superior，andHurononitswaytotheEasternStatesandtoEurope。WehadthoughtofgoingfromBuffaloacrossLakeErietoDetroit；butwefoundthatthebetterclassofsteamershadbeentakenoffthewatersforthewinter。Andwealsofoundthatnavigationamongtheselakesisamistakewheneverthenecessaryjourneycanbetakenbyrailway。Theirwatersarebynomeanssmooth，andthenthereisnothingtobeseen。Idonotknowwhetherothersmayhaveafeeling，almostinstinctive，thatlakenavigationmustbepleasant——thatlakesmustofnecessitybebeautiful。Ihavesuchafeeling，butnotnowsostronglyasformerly。SuchanideashouldbekeptforuseinEurope，andneverbroughtovertoAmericawithothertravelinggear。ThelakesinAmericaarecold，cumbrous，uncouth，anduninteresting——intendedbynaturefortheconveyanceofcerealproduce，butnotforthecomfortoftravelingmenandwomen。Sowegaveupourplanoftraversingthelake，and，passingbackintoCanadabythesuspensionbridgeatNiagara，wereachedtheDetroitRiveratWindsorbytheGreatWesternline，andpassedthencebytheferryintotheCityofDetroit。

InmakingthisjourneyatnightweintroducedourselvestothethoroughlyAmericaninstitutionofsleeping-cars——thatis，ofcarsinwhichbedsaremadeupfortravelers。Thetravelermayhaveawholebed，orhalfabed，ornobedatall，ashepleases，payingadollarorhalfadollarextrashouldhechoosethepartialorfullfruitionofacouch。IconfessIhavealwaystakenadelightinseeingthesebedsmadeup，andconsiderthattheoperationsofthechangearegenerallyaswellexecutedasthemanoeuvresofanypantomimeatDruryLane。Theworkisusuallydonebynegroesorcoloredmen，andthedomesticnegroesofAmericaarealwayslight-

handedandadroit。ThenatureofanAmericancarisnodoubtknowntoallmen。Itlooksasfarremovedfromallbed-roomaccommodationasthebaker\'sbarrowdoesfromthesteamengineintowhichitistobeconvertedbyHarlequin\'swand。ButthenegrogoestoworkmuchmorequietlythantheHarlequin；andforeveryfourseatsintherailwaycarhebuildsupfourbedsalmostasquicklyastheheroofthepantomimegoesthroughhisperformance。

ThegreatgloryoftheAmericansisintheirwondrouscontrivances——

intheirpatentremediesfortheusuallytroublousoperationsoflife。Intheirhugehotelsallthebellropesofeachhouseringononebellonly；butapatentindicatordisclosesanumber，andthewhereaboutsoftheringerisshown。Onefireheatseveryroom，passage，hall，andcupboard，anddoesitsoeffectuallythattheinhabitantsareallbutstifled。Soda-waterbottlesopenthemselveswithoutanytroubleofwireorstrings。Menandwomengoupanddownstairswithoutmotivepoweroftheirown。Hotandcoldwaterarelaidontoallthechambers；thoughitsometimeshappensthatthewaterfrombothtapsisboiling，andthat，whenonceturnedon，itcannotbeturnedoffagainbyanyhumanenergy。

Everythingisdonebyanewandwonderfulpatentcontrivance；andofalltheirwonderfulcontrivances，thatoftheirrailroadbedsisbynomeanstheleast。Foreveryfourseatsthenegrobuildsupfourbeds——thatis，fourhalfbeds，oraccommodationforfourpersons。Twoaresupposedtobebelow，ontheleveloftheordinaryfourseats，andtwoupaboveonshelveswhichareletdownfromtheroof。Mattressesslipoutfromonenookandpillowsfromanother。Blanketsareadded，andthebedisready。Anyover-

particularindividual——anislander，forinstance，whohugshischains——willgenerallyprefertopaythedollarforthedoubleaccommodation。Lookingatthebedinthelightofabed——taking，asitwere，anabstractviewofit——orcomparingitwithsomeotherbedorbedswithwhichtheoccupantmayhaveacquaintance，Icannotsaythatitisinallrespectsperfect。ButdistancesarelonginAmerica；andhewhodeclinestotravelbynightwillloseverymuchtime。Hewhodoessotravelwillfindtherailwaybedagreatrelief。Imustconfessthatthefeelingofdirt，onthefollowingmorning，isratheroppressive。

FromWindsor，ontheCanadaside，wepassedovertoDetroit，intheStateofMichigan，byasteamferry。ButferriesinEnglandandferriesinAmericaareverydifferent。Here，onthisDetroitferry，somehundredofpassengers，whoweregoingforwardfromtheothersidewithoutdelay，atoncesatdowntobreakfast。Imayaswellexplainthewayinwhichdispositionismadeofone\'sluggageasonetakestheselongjourneys。Thetraveler，whenhestarts，hashisbaggagechecked。Heabandonshistrunk——generallyabox，studdedwithnails，aslongasacoffinandashighasalinenchest——and，inreturnforthis，hereceivesanironticketwithanumberonit。Asheapproachestheendofhisfirstinstallmentoftravelandwhiletheengineisstillworkingitshardest，amancomesuptohim，bearingwithhim，suspendedonacircularbar，aninfinitevarietyofotherchecks。Thetravelerconfidestothismanhiswishes，and，ifhebegoingfartherwithoutdelay，surrendershischeckandreceivesacounter-checkinreturn。Then，whilethetrainisstillinmotion，thenewdestinyofthetrunkisimpartedtoit。Butanotherman，withanothersetofchecks，alsocomestheway，walkingleisurelythroughthetrainasheperformshiswork。Thisistheministerofthehotel-omnibusinstitution。

Hisbusinessiswiththosewhodonottravelbeyondthenextterminus。Tohim，ifsuchbeyourintention，youmakeyourconfidence，givingupyourtallies，andtakingothertalliesbywayofreceipt；andyourluggageisafterwardfoundbyyouinthehallofyourhotel。Thereisundoubtedlyverymuchofcomfortinthis；

andthemindofthetravelerislostinamazementashethinksofthefutileeffortswithwhichhewouldstruggletoregainhisluggageweretherenosucharrangement。Enormouspilesofboxesaredisclosedontheplatformatallthelargerstations，thenumbersofwhichareroaredforthwithquickvoicebysometwoorthreerailwaydenizensatonce。AmodestEnglishvoyager，withsixorsevensmallpackages，wouldstandnochanceofgettinganythingifhewerelefttohisowndevices。Asitis，Iamboundtosaythatthethingiswelldone。Ihavehadmydeskwithallmymoneyinitlostforaday，andmyblackleatherbagwasononeoccasionsentbackovertheline。They，however，wererecovered；and，onthewhole，IfeelgratefultothechecksystemoftheAmericanrailways。Andthen，too，oneneverhearsofextraluggage。Ofweighttheyarequiteregardless。Ontwoorthreeoccasionsanoverwroughtofficialhasmutteredbetweenhisteeththattenpackageswereagreatmany，andthatsomeofthose“lightfixings“

mighthavebeenmadeupintoone。AndwhenIcametounderstandthatthenumberofeverycheckwasenteredinabook，andre-

enteredateverychange，Ididwhispertomywifethatsheoughttodowithoutabonnetbox。Theten，however，wenton，andwerealwaysdulyprotected。Imustadd，however，thatarticlesrequiringtendertreatmentwillsometimesreappearalittletheworsefromthehardshipsoftheirjourney。

IhavenotmuchtosayofDetroit——notmuch，thatis，beyondwhatI

havetosayofalltheNorth。Itisalarge，well-built，half-

finishedcitylyingonaconvenientwaterway，andspreadingitselfoutwithpromisesofawideandstillwiderprosperity。IthasaboutitperhapsaslittleofintrinsicinterestasanyofthoselargeWesterntownswhichIvisited。ItisnotsopleasantasMilwaukee，norsopicturesqueasSt。Paul，norsograndasChicago，norsocivilizedasCleveland，norsobusyasBuffalo。Indeed，Detroitisneitherpleasantnorpicturesqueatall。Iwillnotsaythatitisuncivilized；butithasaharsh，crude，unprepossessingappearance。Ithassome70，000inhabitants，andgoodaccommodationforshipping。Itwasdoinganenormousbusinessbeforethewarbegan，and，whenthesetroubloustimesareover，willnodoubtagaingoahead。Idonot，however，thinkitwelltorecommendanyEnglishmantomakeaspecialvisittoDetroitwhomaybewhollyuncommercialinhisviews，andtravelinsearchofthatwhichiseitherbeautifulorinteresting。

FromDetroitwecontinuedourcoursewestwardacrosstheStateofMichigan，throughacountrythatwasabsolutelywildtilltherailwaypiercedit，Verymuchofitisstillabsolutelywild。Formilesuponmilestheroadpassestheuntouchedforest，showingthateveninMichiganthegreatworkofcivilizationhashardlymorethanbeencommenced。Onethinksoftheallbutcountlesspopulationwhichis，beforelong，tobefedfromtheseregions——ofthecitieswhichwillgrowhere，andoftheamountofgovernmentwhichinduetimewillberequired——onecanhardlyfailtofeelthatthedivisionoftheUnitedStatesintoseparatenationalitiesismerelyapartoftheordainedworkofcreationasarrangedforthewell-beingofmankind。TheStatesalreadyboastofthirtymillionsofinhabitants——notofunnoticedandunnoticeablebeingsrequiringlittle，knowinglittle，anddoinglittle，suchasaretheEasternhordes，whichmaybecountedbytensofmillions，butofmenandwomenwhotalkloudlyandareambitious，whoeatbeef，whoreadandwrite，andunderstandthedignityofmanhood。Butthesethirtymillionsareasnothingtothecrowdswhichwillgrowsleek，andtalkloudly，andbecomeaggressiveonthesewheatandmeatproducinglevels。Thecountryisasyetbuttouchedbythepioneeringhandofpopulation。Intheoldcountries，agriculture，followingontheheelsofpastoral，patriarchallife，precededthebirthofcities。Butinthisyoungworldthecitieshavecomefirst。ThenewJasons，blessedwiththeexperienceoftheOld-

Worldadventurers，havegoneforthinsearchoftheirgoldenfleeces，armedwithallthatthescienceandskilloftheEasthadasyetproduced，and，insettlinguptheirnewColchis，havebegunbytheerectionoffirstclasshotelsandthefabricationofrailroads。LettheOldWorldbidthemGodspeedintheirwork。

Onlyitwouldbewelliftheycouldbebroughttoacknowledgefromwhencetheyhavelearnedallthattheyknow。

OurroutelayrightacrosstheStatetoaplacecalledGrandHaven，onLakeMichigan，fromwhenceweweretotakeboatforMilwaukee，atowninWisconsin，ontheoppositeorwesternshoreofthelake。

MichiganissometimescalledthePeninsularState，fromthefactthatthemainpartofitsterritoryissurroundedbyLakesMichiganandHuron，bythelittleLakeSt。ClairandbyLakeErie。ItjutsouttothenorthwardfromthemainlandofIndianaandOhio，andiscircumnavigableontheeast，north，andwest。Theseparticulars，however，refertoapartoftheStateonly；foraportionofitliesontheothersideofLakeMichigan，betweenthatandLakeSuperior。Idoubtwhetheranylargeinlandterritoryintheworldisblessedwithsuchfacilitiesofwatercarriage。

OnarrivingatGrandHavenwefoundthattherehadbeenastormonthelake，andthatthepassengersfromthetrainsoftheprecedingdaywerestillremainingthere，waitingtobecarriedovertoMilwaukee。Thewaterhowever——orthesea，astheyallcallit——wasstillveryhigh，andthecaptaindeclaredhisintentionofremainingtherethatnight；whereuponallourfellow-travelershuddledthemselvesintothegreatlakesteamboat，andproceededtocarryonlifethereasthoughtheywerequiteathome。Thementookthemselvestothebar-room，andsmokedcigarsandtalkedaboutthewarwiththeirfeetuponthecounter；andthewomengotthemselvesintorocking-chairsinthesaloon，andsattherelistlessandsilent，butnotmorelistlessandsilentthantheyusuallyareinthebigdrawing-roomsofthebighotels。Therewassuppertherepreciselyatsixo\'clock——beef-steaks，andtea，andapplejam，andhotcakes，andlightfixings，toallwhichluxuriesanAmericandeemshimselfentitled，lethimhavetoseekhismealwherehemay。AndIwassooninformed，withconsiderableenergy，thatlettheboatbekeptthereaslongasitmightbystressofweather，thebeef-steaksandapplejam，lightfixingsandheavyfixings，mustbesuppliedatthecostoftheownersoftheship。

“Yourfirstsupperyoupayfor，“myinformanttoldme，“becauseyoueatthatonyourownaccount。Whatyouconsumeafterthatcomesoftheirdoing，becausetheydon\'tstart；andifit\'sthreemealsadayforaweek，it\'stheirlookout。“Itoccurredtomethat，undersuchcircumstances，acaptainwouldbeveryapttosaileitherinfoulweatherorinfair。

Itwasabrightmoonlightnight——moonlightsuchaswerarelyhaveinEngland——andIstartedoffbymyselfforawalk，thatImightseeofwhatnatureweretheenvironsofGrandHaven。AmoremelancholyplaceIneverbeheld。ThetownofGrandHavenitselfisplacedontheoppositesideofacreek，andwastobereachedbyaferry。Onourside，towhichtherailwaycameandfromwhichtheboatwastosail，therewasnothingtobeseenbutsandhills，whichstretchedawayformilesalongtheshoreofthelake。Thereweregreatsandmountainsandsandvalleys，onthesurfaceofwhichwerescatteredthedebrisofdeadtrees，scatteredlogswhitewithage，andboughshalfburiedbeneaththesand。GrandHavenitselfisbutapoorplace，nothavingsucceededincatchingmuchofthecommercewhichcomesacrossthelakefromWisconsin，andwhichtakesitselfonEastwardbytherailway。Altogether，itisadrearyplace，suchasmightbreakaman\'sheartshouldhefindthatinexorablefaterequiredhimtheretopitchhistent。

OnmyreturnIwentdownintothebar-roomofthesteamer，putmyfeetuponthecounter，litmycigar，andstruckintothedebatethenproceedingonthesubjectofthewar。IwasgettingWest，andGeneralFremontwastheheroofthehour。“He\'safrontierman，andthat\'swhatwewant。Iguesshe\'llaboutgothrough。Yes，sir。““AsforrelievingGeneralFre-mont，“(withtheaccentalwaysstronglyonthe“mont，“)“IguessyoumayaswelltalkofrelievingthewholeWest。Theywon\'tmeddlewithFre-mont。TheyarebeginningtoknowinWashingtonwhatstuffhe\'smadeof。““Why，sir，thereare50，000menintheseStateswhowillfollowFre-mont，whowouldnotstirafootafteranyotherman。“Fromwhich，andthelikeofitinmanyotherplaces，IbegantounderstandhowdifficultwasthetaskwhichthestatesmeninWashingtonhadinhand。

Ireceivednopecuniaryadvantagewhateverfromthatlawastothesteamboatmealswhichmynewfriendhadrevealedtome。FormyonesupperofcourseIpaid，lookingforwardtoanyamountofsubsequentgratuitousprovisions。Butinthecourseofthenighttheshipsailed，andwefoundourselvesatMilwaukeeintimeforbreakfastonthefollowingmorning。

Milwaukeeisapleasanttown，averypleasanttown，containing45，000inhabitants。HowmanyofmyreaderscanboastthattheyknowanythingofMilwaukee，orevenhaveheardofit？TomeitsnamewasunknownuntilIsawitonhugerailwayplacardsstuckupinthesmoking-roomsandlounginghallsofallAmericanhotels。ItisthebigtownofWisconsin，whereasMadisonisthecapital。ItstandsimmediatelyonthewesternshoreofLakeMichigan，andisverypleasant。Whyitshouldbeso，andwhyDetroitshouldbethecontrary，Icanhardlytell；onlyIthinkthatthesameverdictwouldbegivenbyanyEnglishtourist。Itmustbealwaysborneinmindthat10，000or40，000inhabitantsinanAmericantown，andespeciallyinanynewWesterntown，isanumberwhichmeansmuchmorethanwouldbeimpliedbyanysimilarnumberastoanoldtowninEurope。SuchapopulationinAmericaconsumesdoubletheamountofbeefwhichitwouldinEngland，wearsdoubletheamountofclothes，anddemandsdoubleasmuchofthecomfortsoflife。Ifacensuscouldbetakenofthewatches，itwouldbefound，Itakeit，thattheAmericanpopulationpossessedamongthemnearlydoubleasmanyaswouldtheEnglish；andIfearalsothatitwouldbefoundthatmanymoreoftheAmericanswerereadersandwritersbyhabit。

InanylargetowninEnglanditisprobablethatahigherexcellenceofeducationwouldbefoundthaninMilwaukee，andalsoastyleoflifeintowhichmoreofrefinementandmoreofluxuryhadfounditsway。Butthegenerallevelofthesethings，ofmaterialandintellectualwell-being——ofbeef，thatis，andbooklearning——isnodoubtinfinitelyhigherinanewAmericanthaninanoldEuropeantown。Suchananimalasabeggarisasmuchunknownasamastodon。Menoutofworkandinwantarealmostunknown。Idonotsaythattherearenoneofthehardshipsoflife——andtothemIwillcomeby-and-by——butwantisnotknownasahardshipinthesetowns，noristhatdenseignoranceinwhichsolargeaproportionofourtownpopulationsisstillsteeped。Andthenthetownof40，000inhabitantsisspreadoverasurfacewhichwouldsufficeinEnglandforacityoffourtimesthesize。OurtownsinEngland——andthetowns，indeed，ofEuropegenerally——havebeenbuiltastheyhavebeenwanted。Noaspiringambitionastohundredsofthousandsofpeoplewarmedthebosomsoftheirfirstfounders。Twoorthreedozenmenrequiredhabitationsinthesamelocality，andclusteredthemtogetherclosely。Manysuchhavefailedanddiedoutoftheworld\'snotice。Othershavethriven，andhouseshavebeenpackedontohouses，tillLondonandManchester，DublinandGlasgowhavebeenproduced。Poormenhavebuilt，orhavehadbuiltforthem，wretchedlanes，andrichmenhaveerectedgrandpalaces。Fromthenatureoftheirbeginningssuchhas，ofnecessity，beenthemanneroftheircreation。ButinAmerica，andespeciallyinWesternAmerica，therehasbeennosuchnecessityandthereisnosuchresult。Thefoundersofcitieshavehadtheexperienceoftheworldbeforethem。Theyhaveknownofsanitarylawsastheybegan。Thatsewerage，andwater，andgas，andgoodairwouldbeneededforathrivingcommunityhasbeentothemasmuchamatteroffactasarethewell-understoodcombinationsbetweentimberandnails，andbricksandmortar。Theyhaveknownthatwatercarriageisalmostanecessityforcommercialsuccess，andhavechosentheirsitesaccordingly。Broadstreetscostaslittle，whilelandbythefootisnotasyetofvaluetoberegarded，asthosewhicharenarrow；andthereforethesitesoftownshavebeenpreparedwithnobleavenuesandimposingstreets。

Acityatitscommencementislaidoutwithanintentionthatitshallbepopulous。Thehousesarenotallbuiltatonce，buttherearetheplacesallocatedforthem。Thestreetsarenotmade，buttherearethespaces。Manyanabortiveattemptatmunicipalgreatnesshassobeenmadeandthenallbutabandoned。Therearewretchedvillages，withhuge，stragglingparallelways，whichwillnevergrowintotowns。Theyarethefailures——failuresinwhichthepioneersofcivilization，frontiermenastheycallthemselves，havelosttheirtensofthousandsofdollars。Butwhenthesuccesscomes，whenthehappyhithasbeenmade，andthewaysofcommercehavebeentrulyforeseenwithacunningeye，thenagreatandprosperouscityspringsup，readymadeasitwere，fromtheearth。

SuchatownisMilwaukee，nowcontaining45，000inhabitants，butwithroomapparentlyfordoublethatnumber；withroomforfourtimesthatnumber，weremenpackedascloselythereastheyarewithus。

Intheprincipalbusinessstreetsofallthesetownsoneseesvastbuildings。Theyareusuallycalledblocks，andareoftensodenominatedinlargelettersontheirfront，asPortlandBlock，DevereuxBlock，Buel\'sBlock。Suchablockmayfacetotwo，three，orevenfourstreets，and，asIpresume，hasgenerallybeenamatterofonespecialspeculation。Itmaybedividedintoseparatehouses，orkeptforasinglepurpose，suchasthatofahotel，orgroupedintoshopsbelow，andintovarioussetsofchambersabove。

Ihavehadoccasioninvarioustownstomountthestairswithintheseblocks，andhavegenerallyfoundsomeportionofthemvacant——

havesometimesfoundthegreaterportionofthemvacant。Menbuildonanenormousscale，threetimes，tentimesasmuchasiswanted。Theonlymeasureofsizeisanincreaseonwhatmenhavebuiltbefore。MonroeP。Jones，thespeculator，isveryprobablyruined，andthenbeginstheworldagainnothingdaunted。ButJones\'sblockremains，andgivestothecityinitsaggregateacertainamountofwealth。Ortheblockbecomesatonceofserviceandfindstenants。InwhichcaseJonesprobablysellsit，andimmediatelybuildstwootherstwiceasbig。ThatMonroeP。Joneswillencounterruinisalmostamatterofcourse；butthenheisnonetheworseforbeingruined。Ithardlymakeshimunhappy。Heisgreedyofdollarswithaterriblecovetousness；butheisgreedyinorderthathemayspeculatemorewidely。HewouldsoonerhavebuiltJones\'stenthblock，withaprospectofcompletingatwentieth，thansettlehimselfdownatrestforlifeastheownerofaChatsworthoraWoburn。Asforhischildren，hehasnodesireofleavingthemmoney。Letthegirlsmarry。Andfortheboys——forthemitwillbegoodtobeginashebegun。Iftheycannotbuildblocksforthemselves，letthemearntheirbreadintheblocksofothermen。SoMonroeP。Jones，withhismillionofdollarsaccomplished，advancesontoanewfrontier，goestoworkagainonanewcity，andlosesitall。AsanindividualIdifferverymuchfromMonroeP。Jones。Thefirstblockaccomplished，withanadequaterentaccruingtomeasthebuilder，IfancythatIshouldnevertryasecond。ButJonesisundoubtedlythemanfortheWest。

Itisthatloveofmoneytocome，joinedtoastrongdisregardformoneymade，whichconstitutesthevigorousfrontiermind，thetruepioneeringorganization。MonroeP。Joneswouldbeagreatmantoallposterityifonlyhehadapoettosingofhisvalor。

Itmaybeimaginedhowlargeinproportiontoitsinhabitantswillbeatownwhichspreadsitselfinthisway。Therearegreathousesleftuntenanted，andgreatgapsleftunfilled。Butiftheplacebesuccessful，ifitpromisesuccess，itwillbeseenatoncethatthereislifeallthroughit。Omnibuses，orstreetcarsworkingonrails，runhitherandthither。Theshopsthathavebeenopenedarewellfilled。Thegreathotelsarethronged。Thequaysarecrowdedwithvessels，andageneralfeelingofprogresspervadestheplace。

ItiseasytoperceivewhetherornoanAmericantownisgoingahead。ThedaysofmyvisittoMilwaukeeweredaysofcivilwarandnationaltrouble，butinspiteofcivilwarandnationaltroubleMilwaukeelookedhealthy。

Ihavesaidthattherewasbutlittlepoverty——littletobeseenofrealwantinthesethrivingtowns——butthattheywholaboredinthemhadneverthelesstheirownhardships。Thisisso。IwouldnothaveanymanbelievethathecantakehimselftotheWesternStatesofAmerica——tothoseStatesofwhichIamnowspeaking——

Michigan，Wisconsin，Minnesota，Iowa，orIllinois，andtherebyindustryescapetheillstowhichfleshisheir。ThelaboringIrishinthesetownseatmeatsevendaysaweek，butIhavemetmanyalaboringIrishmanamongthemwhohaswishedhimselfbackinhisoldcabin。Industryisagoodthing，andthereisnobreadsosweetasthatwhichiseateninthesweatofaman\'sbrow；butlaborcarriedtoexcessweariesthemindaswellasbody，andthesweatthatiseverrunningmakesthebreadbitter。Thereis，I

think，notask-masteroverfreelaborsoexactingasanAmerican。

Heknowsnothingofhours，andseemstohavethatideaofamanwhichaladyalwayshasofahorse。Hethinksthathewillgoforever。IwishthosemasonsinLondonwhostrikeforninehours\'

workwithtenhours\'paycouldbedriventothelabormarketofWesternAmericaforaspell。Andmoreover，whichastonishedme，I

haveseenmendrivenandhurried，asitwereforcedforwardattheirwork，inamannerwhich，toanEnglishworkman，wouldbeintolerable。Thissurprisedmemuch，asitwasatvariancewithour——orperhapsIshouldsaywithmy——preconceivedideasastoAmericanfreedom。IhadfanciedthatanAmericancitizenwouldnotsubmittobedriven；thatthespiritofthecountry，ifnotthespiritoftheindividual，wouldhavemadeitimpossible。Ithoughtthattheshoewouldhavepinchedquiteontheotherfoot。ButI

foundthatsuchdrivingdidexist，andAmericanmastersintheWestwithwhomIhadanopportunityofdiscussingthesubjectalladmittedit。“Thosemen\'llneverhalfmoveunlessthey\'redriven，“

aforemansaidtomeonceaswestoodtogetheroversometwentymenwhowereattheirwork。“Theykinderlookforit，anddon\'twellknowhowtogetalongwhentheymissit。“Itwasnothisbusinessatthismomenttodrive——norwashedriving。Hewasstandingatsomelittledistancefromthescenewithme，andspeculatingonthesightbeforehim。Ithoughtthemenwereworkingattheirbest；

buttheirmovementsdidnotsatisfyhispracticedeye，andhesawataglancethattherewasnooneimmediatelyoverthem。

Butthereisworseeventhanthis。Wagesintheseregionsarewhatweshouldcallhigh。Anagriculturallaborerwillearnperhapsfifteendollarsamonthandhisboard，andatownlaborerwillearnadollaraday。Adollarmaybetakenasrepresentingfourshillings，thoughitisinfactmore。FoodinthesepartsismuchcheaperthaninEngland，andthereforethewagesmustbeconsideredasverygood。Inmaking，however，ajustcalculationitmustbeborneinmindthatclothingisdearerthaninEngland，andthatmuchmoreofitisnecessary。Thewagesneverthelessarehigh，andwillenablethelaborertosavemoney，ifonlyhecangetthempaid。Thecomplaintthatwagesareheldback，andnotevenultimatelypaid，isverycommon。Thereisnofixedruleforsatisfyingallsuchclaimsonceaweek，andthusdebtstolaborersarecontracted，andwhencontractedareignored。Withusthereisafeelingthatitispitiful，meanalmostbeyondexpression，towrongalaborerofhishire。Wehavemenwhogoindebttotradesmenperhapswithoutathoughtofpayingthem；butwhenwespeakofsuchaonewhohasdescendedintothelowestmireofinsolvency，wesaythathehasnotpaidhiswasherwoman。OutthereintheWestthewasherwomanisasfairgameasthetailor，thedomesticservantasthewinemerchant。Ifamanbehonesthewillnotwillinglytakeeithergoodsorlaborwithoutpayment；anditmaybehardtoprovethathewhotakesthelatterismoredishonestthanhewhotakestheformer；butwithusthereisaprejudiceinfavorofone\'swasherwomanbywhichtheWesternmindisnotweakened。“Theycertainlyhavetobesmarttogetit，“agentlemansaidtomewhomIhadtaxedonthesubject。“Yousee，onthefrontieramanisboundtobesmart。Ifheaintsmart，he\'dbettergobackEast，perhapsasfarasEurope；he\'lldothere。“Ihadgotmyanswer，andmyfriendhadturnedthequestion；butthefactwasadmittedbyhim，asithadbeenbymanyothers。

Whythisshouldbesoisaquestiontoanswerwhichthoroughlywouldrequireavolumeinitself。Astothedriving，whyshouldmensubmittoit，seeingthatlaborisabundant，andthatinallnewly-settledcountriesthelaboreristhetrueherooftheage？

Inanswertothisistobeallegedthefactthathiredlaborischieflydonebyfreshcomers，byIrishandGermans，whohavenotasyetamongthemanycombinationsufficienttoprotectthemfromsuchusage。Themenoverthemarenewasmasters，masterswhoareroughthemselves，whothemselveshavebeenroughlydriven，andwhohavenotlearnedtobegracioustothosebelowthem。Itisapartoftheircontractthatveryhardworkshallbeexacted，andthedrivingresolvesitselfintothis:thatthemaster，lookingafterhisowninterest，isconstantlyaccusinghislaborerofabreachofhispartofthecontract。Themennodoubtdobecomeusedtoit，andslackenprobablyintheirendeavorswhenthetongueofthemasterorforemanisnotheard。Butastothatmatterofnon-

paymentofwages，themenmustlive；andhere，aselsewhere，themasterwhoomitstopayoncewillhardlyfindlaborersinfuture。

Thematterwouldremedyitselfelsewhere，anddoesitnotdosohere？Thisofcourseisso，anditisnottobeunderstoodthatlaborasaruleisdefraudedofitshire。ButtherelationofthemasterandthemanadmitofsuchfraudheremuchmorefrequentlythaninEngland。InEnglandthelaborerwhodidnotgethiswagesontheSaturday，couldnotgoonforthenextweek。Tohim，undersuchcircumstances，theworldwouldbecomingtoanend。ButintheWesternStatesthelaborerdoesnotlivesocompletelyfromhandtomouth。Heisrarelypaidbytheweek，isaccustomedtogivesomecredit，and，tillhardpressedbybadcircumstances，generallyhassomethingbyhim。Theydosavemoney，andarethusfatteneduptoastatewhichadmitsofvictimization。Icannotowemoneytothelittlevillagecobblerwhomendsmyshoes，becausehedemandsandreceiveshispaymentwhenhisjobisdone。ButtomyfriendinRegentStreetIextendmycustomonadifferentsystem；

andwhenImakemystartforcontinentallifeIhavewithhimamatterofunsettledbusinesstoaconsiderableextent。TheAmericanlaborerisintheconditionoftheRegentStreetbootmaker，exceptinginthisrespect，thathegiveshiscreditundercompulsion。“Butdoesnotthelawsethimright？Istherenolawagainstdebtors？“Thelawsagainstdebtorsareplainenoughastheyarewrittendown，butseemtobeanythingbutplainwhencalledintoaction。Theyareperfectlyunderstood，andoperationsarecarriedonwiththeexpresspurposeofevadingthem。Ifyouproceedagainstaman，youfindthathispropertyisinthehandsofsomeoneelse。YouworkinfactforJones，wholivesinthestreetnexttoyou；butwhenyouquarrelwithJonesaboutyourwages，youfindthataccordingtolawyouhavebeenworkingforSmith，inanotherState。Inallcountriessuchdodgesareprobablypracticable。Butmenwillorwillnothaverecoursetosuchdodgesaccordingtothelightinwhichtheyareregardedbythecommunity。

IntheWesternStatessuchdodgesdonotappeartoberegardedasdisgraceful。“Itbehovesafrontiermantobesmart，sir。“

Honestyisthebestpolicy。Thatisadoctrinewhichhasbeenwidelypreached，andwhichhasrecommendeditselftomanymindsasbeingoneofabsolutetruth。Itisnotveryennoblinginitssentiment，seeingthatitadvocatesaspecialvirtue，notonthegroundthatthatvirtueisinitselfathingbeautiful，butonaccountoftheimmediaterewardwhichwillbeitsconsequence。