第13章

LouisvilleisthecommercialcityoftheState，andstandsontheOhio。Itisanothergreattown，likealltheothers，builtwithhighstores，andgreathousesandstone-facedblocks。Ihavenodoubtthatallthebuildingspeculationshavebeenfailures，andthatthemenengagedinthemwereallruined。Butthere，astheresultoftheirlabor，standsafairgreatcityonthesouthernbanksoftheOhio。HereGeneralBuellheldhisheadquarters，buthisarmylayatadistance。OnmyreturnfromtheWestIvisitedoneofthecampsofthisarmy，andwillspeakofitasIspeakofmybackwardjourney。IhadalreadyatthistimebeguntoconceiveanopinionthatthearmiesinKentuckyandinMissouriwoulddoatanyrateasmuchfortheNortherncauseasthatofthePotomac，ofwhichsomuchmorehadbeenheardinEngland。

WhileIwasatLouisvilletheOhiowasflooded。IthadbeguntorisewhenIwasatCincinnati，andsincethenhadgoneonincreasinghourly，risinginchbyinchupintothetownsuponitsbank。I

visitedtwosuburbsofLouisville，bothofwhichweresubmerged，astothestreetsandgroundfloorsofthehouses。AtShippingPort，oneofthesesuburbs，Isawthewomenandchildrenclusteringintheup-stairsroom，whilethemenweregoingaboutinpuntsandwherries，collectingdrift-woodfromtheriverfortheirwinter\'sfiring。Insomeplacesbeddingandfurniturehadbeenbroughtovertothehighground，andthewomenweresitting，guardingtheirlittleproperty。Thatvillage，amidthewaters，wasasadsighttosee；butIheardnocomplaints。Therewasnotearingofhairandnognashingofteeth；nobittertearsormoansofsorrow。Themenwhowerenotatworkintheboatsstoodloafingaboutinclusters，lookingatthestillrisingriver，buteachseemedtobepersonallyindifferenttothematter。WhenthehouseofanAmericaniscarrieddowntheriver，hebuildshimselfanother，ashewouldgethimselfanewcoatwhenhisoldcoatbecameunserviceable。Butheneverlamentsormoansforsuchaloss。Surelythereisnootherpeoplesopassiveunderpersonalmisfortune！

GoingfromLouisvilleuptoSt。Louis，IcrossedtheOhioRiverandpassedthroughpartsofIndianaandofIllinois，and，strikingtheMississippioppositeSt。Louis，crossedthatriveralso，andthenenteredtheStateofMissouri。TheOhiowas，asIhavesaid，flooded，andwewentoveritatnight。Theboathadbeenmooredatsomeunaccustomedplace。Therewasnolight。Theroadwasdeepinmuduptotheaxle-tree，andwascrowdedwithwagonsandcarts，whichinthedarknessofthenightseemedtohavestuckthere。Butthemandrovehisfourhorsesthroughitall，andintotheferry-

boat，overitsside。Therewerethreeorfoursuchomnibuses，andasmanywagons，astoeachofwhichIpredictedinmyownmindsomefatalcatastrophe。Buttheywerealldrivenontotheboatinthedark，thehorsesmixinginthrougheachotherinachaoswhichwouldhavealtogetherincapacitatedanyEnglishcoachman。Andthenthevessellaboredacrosstheflood，goingsideways，andhardlykeepingherownagainstthestream。Butwedidgetover，andwerealldrivenoutagain，uptotherailwaystationinsafety。OnreachingtheMississippiaboutthemiddleofthenextday，wefounditfrozenover，orrathercoveredfromsidetosidewithblocksoficewhichhadforcedtheirwaydowntheriver，sothatthesteam-ferrycouldnotreachitsproperlanding。IdonotthinkthatweinEnglandwouldhaveattemptedthefeatofcarryingoverhorsesandcarriagesunderstressofsuchcircumstances。Butitwasdonehere。Hugeplankingswerelaiddownovertheice，andomnibusesandwagonsweredrivenon。Ingettingoutagain，thesevehicles，eachwithfourhorses，hadtobetwistedabout，anddriveninandacrossthevessel，andturnedinspacestolookatwhichwouldhavebrokentheheartofanEnglishcoachman。Andthenwithaspringtheyweredrivenupabankassteepasaladder！Ahme！underwhatmistakenillusionshaveInotlaboredallthedaysofmyyouth，insupposingthatnomancoulddrivefourhorseswellbutanEnglishstagecoachman！IhaveseenperformancesinAmerica——andinItalyandFrancealso，butaboveallinAmerica——whichwouldhavemadethehairofanyEnglishprofessionaldriverstandonend。

AndinthiswayIenteredSt。Louis。

CHAPTERV。

MISSOURI。

MissouriisaslaveState，lyingtothewestoftheMississippiandtothenorthofArkansas。ItformsaportionoftheterritorycededbyFrancetotheUnitedStatesin1803。Indeed，itisdifficulttosayhowlargeaportionofthecontinentofNorthAmericaissupposedtobeincludedinthatterritory。ItcontainstheStatesofLouisiana，Arkansas，Missouri，andKansas，asalsothepresentIndianTerritory；butitalsoissaidtohavecontainedallthelandlyingbackfromthemtotheRockyMountains，Utah，Nebraska，andDakota，andformsnodoubtthewidestdominionevercededbyonenationalitytoanother。

MissouriliesexactlynorthoftheoldMissouricompromiseline——

thatis，36。30north。WhentheMissouricompromisewasmadeitwasarrangedthatMissourishouldbeaslaveState，butthatnootherStatenorthofthe36。30lineshouldeverbecomeslavesoil。

KentuckyandVirginia，asalsoofcourseMarylandandDelaware，fouroftheoldslaveStates，werealreadynorthofthatline；butthecompromisewasintendedtopreventtheadvanceofslaveryintheNorthwest。Thecompromisehasbeensinceannulled，ontheground，I

believe，thatCongresshadnotconstitutionallythepowertodeclarethatanysoilshouldbefree，orthatanyshouldbeslavesoil。

ThatisaquestiontobedecidedbytheStatesthemselves，aseachindividualStatemayplease。Sothecompromisewasrepealed。Butslaveryhasnotonthataccountadvanced。ThebattlehasbeenfoughtinKansas，and，afteralongandterriblestruggle，KansashascomeoutofthefightasafreeState。KansasisinthesameparalleloflatitudeasVirginia，andstretcheswestasfarastheRockyMountains，WhenthecensusofthepopulationofMissouriwastakenin1860，theslavesamountedtotenpercent。ofthewholenumber。IntheGulfStatestheslavepopulationisaboutforty-fivepercent。ofthewhole。InthethreeborderStatesofKentucky，Virginia，andMaryland，theslavesamounttothirtypercent。ofthewholepopulation。FromthesefiguresitwillbeseenthatMissouri，whichiscomparativelyanewslaveState，hasnotgoneaheadwithslaveryastheoldslaveStateshavedone，althoughfromitspositionandclimate，lyingasfarsouthasVirginia，itmightseemtohavehadthesamereasonsfordoingso。IthinkthereiseveryreasontobelievethatslaverywilldieoutinMissouri。Theinstitutionisnotpopularwiththepeoplegenerally；andaswhitelaborbecomesabundant——andbeforethewaritwasbecomingabundant——menrecognizethefactthatthewhiteman\'slaboristhemoreprofitable。TheheatinthisState，inmidsummer，isverygreat，especiallyinthevalleysoftherivers。AtSt。Louis，ontheMississippi，itreachescommonlytoninetydegrees，andveryfrequentlygoesabovethat。

Thenights，moreover，arenearlyashotasthedays；butthisgreatheatdoesnotlastforanyverylongperiod，anditseemsthatwhitemenareabletoworkthroughouttheyear。Ifcorrespondinglysevereweatherinwinteraffordsanycompensationtothewhitemanforwhatofheatheenduresduringthesummer，IcantestifythatsuchcompensationistobefoundinMissouri。WhenIwastherewewereafflictedwithacombinationofsnow，sleet，frost，andwind，withamixtureoficeandmud，thatmakesmeregardMissouriasthemostinclementlandintowhichIeverpenetrated。

St。Louis，ontheMississippi，isthegreattownofMissouri，andisconsideredbytheMissourianstobethestaroftheWest。Itisnottobebeateninpopulation，wealth，ornaturaladvantagesbyanyothercitysofarwest；butithasnotincreasedwithsuchrapidityasChicago，whichisconsiderablytothenorthofit，onLakeMichigan。OfthegreatWesterncitiesIregardChicagoasthemostremarkable，seeingthatSt。LouiswasalargetownbeforeChicagohadbeenfounded。

ThepopulationofSt。Louisis170，000。Ofthisnumberonly2000

areslaves。IwastoldthatalargeproportionoftheslavesofMissouriareemployedneartheMissouriRiverinbreakinghemp。Thegrowthofhempisveryprofitablycarriedoninthatvalley，andthelaborattachedtoitisonewhichwhitemendonotliketoencounter。SlavesarenotgenerallyemployedinSt。LouisfordomesticserviceasisdonealmostuniversallyinthetownsofKentucky。ThisworkischieflyinthehandsofIrishandGermans。

Considerablyaboveone-thirdofthepopulationofthewholecityismadeupofthesetwonationalities。Somuchisconfessed；butifI

weretoformanopinionfromthelanguageIheardinthestreetsofthetown，IshouldsaythatnearlyeverymanwaseitheranIrishmanoraGerman。

St。Louishasnoneoftheaspectsofaslavecity。IcannotsaythatIfounditanattractiveplace；butthenIdidnotvisititatanattractivetime。Thewarhaddisturbedeverything，givenaspecialcolorofitsowntomen\'sthoughtsandwords，anddestroyedallinterestexceptthatwhichmightproceedfromitself。Thetowniswellbuilt，withgoodshops，straightstreets，never-endingrowsofexcellenthouses，andeverysignofcommercialwealthanddomesticcomfort——ofcommercialwealthanddomesticcomfortinthepast，fortherewasnopresentappearanceeitherofcomfortorofwealth。Thenewhotelherewastobebiggerthanallthehotelsofallothertowns。Itisbuilt，andisanenormouspile，andwouldbehandsomebutforaterriblyambitiousGreciandoorway。Itisbuilt，asfarasthewallsandroofareconcerned，butinallotherrespectsisunfinished。Iwastoldthatthesharesoftheoriginalstockholderswerenowworthnothing。Ashareholder，whosotoldme，seemedtoregardthisastheordinarycourseofbusiness。

Thegreatgloryofthetownisthe“levee，“asitiscalled，orthelongriverbeachuptowhichthesteamersarebroughtwiththeirbowstotheshore。Itisanesplanadelookingontotheriver，notbuiltwithquaysorwharves，aswouldbethecasewithus，butwithaslopingbankrunningdowntothewater。Inthegooddaysofpeaceahundredvesselsweretobeseenhere，eachwithitsdoublefunnels。ThelineofthemseemedtobeneverendingevenwhenIwasthere，butthenaverylargeproportionofthemwerelyingidle。

Theyresemblehuge，woodenhouses，apparentlyoffrailarchitecture，floatinguponthewater。Eachhasitsdoublerowofbalconiesrunningroundit，andthelowerorgroundfloorisopenthroughout。

Theupperstoriesareproppedandsupportedonuglysticksandrickety-lookingbeams；sothatthefirstappearancedoesnotconveyanygreatideaofsecuritytoastranger。Theyarealwayspaintedwhite，andthepaintisalwaysverydirty。Whentheybegintomove，theymoanandgroaninmelancholytoneswhicharesubversiveofallcomfort；andastheycontinueontheircoursestheypuffandbluster，andareforeverthreateningtoburstandshatterthemselvestopieces。Theretheylie，inacontinuouslinenearlyamileinlength，alongtheleveeofSt。Louis，dirty，dingy，andnow，alas！

mute。Theyhaveceasedtogroanandpuff，and，ifthiswarbecontinuedforsixmonthslonger，willbecomerottenanduselessastheylie。

TheyboastatSt。Louisthattheycommand46，000milesofnavigableriverwater，countingthegreatriversupanddownfromthatplace。

TheseriversarechieflytheMississippi；theMissouriandOhio，whichfallintotheMississippinearSt。Louis；thePlatteandKansasRivers，tributariesoftheMissouri；theIllinois，andtheWisconsin。Alltheseareopentosteamers，andallofthemtraverseregionsrichincorn，incoal，inmetals，orintimber。Theseready-madehighwaysoftheworldcenter，asitwere，atSt。Louis，andmakeitthedepotofthecarryingtradeofallthatvastcountry。Minnesotais1500milesaboveNewOrleans，butthewheatofMinnesotacanbebroughtdownthewholedistancewithoutchangeofthevesselinwhichitisfirstdeposited。Itwouldseemtobeimpossiblethatacountrysoblessedshouldnotbecomerich。Itmustberememberedthattheseriversflowthroughlandsthathaveneveryetbeensurpassedinnaturalfertility。OfallcountriesintheworldonewouldsaythattheStatesofAmericashouldhavebeenthelasttocursethemselveswithawar；butnowthecursehasfallenuponthemwithadoublevengeance，itwouldseemthattheycouldneverbegreatinwar:theirveryinstitutionsforbidit；

theirenormousdistancesforbidit；thepriceoflaborforbidsit；

anditisforbiddenalsobythecareerofindustryandexpansionwhichhasbeengiventothem。Butthecurseoffightinghascomeuponthem，andtheyareshowingthemselvestobeaseagerintheworksofwarastheyhaveshownthemselvescapableintheworksofpeace。Menandangelsmustweepastheybeholdthethingsthatarebeingdone，astheywatchtheruinthathascomeandisstillcoming，astheylookoncommercekilledandagriculturesuspended。

Nosightsosadhascomeupontheearthinourdays。Theywereagreatpeople；feedingtheworld，addingdailytothemechanicalappliancesofmankind，increasinginpopulationbeyondallmeasuresofsuchincreasehithertoknown，andextendingeducationasfastastheyextendedtheirnumbers。Povertyhadasyetfoundnoplaceamongthem，andhungerwasanevilofwhichtheyhadreadbutwerethemselvesignorant。Eachmanamongtheircrowdshadarighttobeproudofhismanhood。Toreadandwrite——IamspeakinghereoftheNorth——wasascommonastoeatanddrink。Toworkwasnodisgrace，andthewagesofworkwereplentiful。Tolivewithoutworkwasthelotofnone。Whatblessingabovetheseblessingswasneededtomakeapeoplegreatandhappy？Andnowastrangervisitingthemwoulddeclarethattheyarewallowinginaverysloughofdespond。Theonlytradeopenisthetradeofwar。Theaxeofthewoodsmanisatrest；theplowisidle；theartificerhasclosedhisshop。Theroarofthefounderyisstillheardbecausecannonareneeded，andtheriverofmoltenironcomesoutasanimplementofdeath。Thestone-

cutter\'shammerandthemason\'strowelareneverheard。Thegoldofthecountryishidingitselfasthoughithadreturnedtoitsmotherearth，andtheinfancyofapapercurrencyhasbeencommenced。Sicksoldiers，whohaveneverseenabattle-field，aredyingbyhundredsinthesqualiddirtoftheirunaccustomedcamps。Menandwomentalkofwar，andofwaronly。Newspapersfullofthewararealoneread。

Acontractforwarstores——toooftenadishonestcontract——istheonepathopenforcommercialenterprise。Theyoungmanmustgotothewarorheisdisgraced。Thewarswallowseverything，andasyethasfailedtoproduceevensuchbitterfruitsasvictoryorglory。

Mustitnotbesaidthatacursehasfallenupontheland？

AndyetIstillhopethatitmayultimatelybeforgood。Throughwaterandfiremustanationbecleansedofitsfaults。Ithasbeensowithallnations，thoughthephasesoftheirtrialshavebeendifferent。ItdidnotseemtobewellwithusinCromwell\'searlydays；norwasitwellwithusafterwardinthosedisgracefulyearsofthelaterStuarts。WeknowhowFrancewasbathedinbloodinherefforttoridherselfofherpaintedsepulcherofanancientthrone；

howGermanywasmadedesolate，inorderthatPrussiamightbecomeanation。Irelandwaspoorandwretchedtillherfaminecame。Mensaiditwasacurse，butthatcursehasbeenhergreatestblessing。

AndsowillitbehereintheWest。IcouldnotbutweepinspiritasIsawthewretchednessaroundme——thesqualidmiseryofthesoldiers，theinefficiencyoftheirofficers，thebickeringsoftheirrulers，thenoiseandthreats，thedirtandruin，theterribledishonestyofthosewhoweretrusted！Thesearethingswhichmadeamanwishthathewereanywherebutthere。ButIdobelievethatGodisstilloverall，andthateverythingisworkingforgood。Thesethingsarethefireandwaterthroughwhichthisnationmustpass。

Thecourseofthispeoplehadbeentoostraight，andtheirwayhadbeentoopleasant。Thatwhichtoothershadbeeneverdifficulthadbeenmadeeasyforthem。Breadandmeathadcometothemasthingsofcourse，andtheyhardlyrememberedtobethankful。“We，ourselves，havedoneit，“theydeclaredaloud。“Wearenotasothermen。Wearegodsupontheearth。Whosearmshallbelongenoughtostayus，orwhoseboltshallbestrongenoughtostrikeus？“

Nowtheyarestrickensore，andtheboltisfromtheirownbow。

Theirownhandshaveraisedthebarrierthathasstayedthem。Theyhavestumbledintheirrunning，andarelyinghurtupontheground；

whiletheywhohaveheardtheirboastingsturnuponthemwithridicule，andlaughatthemintheirdiscomforture。Theyarerollinginthemire，andcannottakethehandofanymantohelpthem。Thoughthehandoftheby-standermaybestretchedtothem，hisfaceisscornfulandhisvoicefullofreproaches。Whohasnotknownthathourofmiserywheninthesullennessoftheheartallhelphasbeenrefused，andmisfortunehasbeenmadewelcometodoherworst？SoisitnowwiththoseonceUnitedStates。Themanwhocanseewithoutinwardtearstheself-inflictedwoundsofthatAmericanpeoplecanhardlyhavewithinhisbosomthetendernessofanEnglishman\'sheart。

Butthestrongrunnerwillriseagaintohisfeet，eventhoughhebestunnedbyhisfall。Hewillriseagain，andwillhavelearnedsomethingbyhissorrow。Hisangerwillpassaway，andhewillagainbracehimselfforhiswork。Whatgreatracehaseverbeenwonbyanyman，orbyanynation，withoutsomesuchfallduringitscourse？Havewenotalldeclaredthatsomechecktothatcareerwasnecessary？Menintheirpursuitofintelligencehadforgottentobehonest；instrugglingforgreatnesstheyhaddiscardedpurity。Thenationhasbeengreat，butthestatesmenofthenationhavebeenlittle。Menhavehardlybeenambitioustogovern，buttheyhavecovetedthewagesofgovernors。Corruptionhascreptintohighplaces——intoplacesthatshouldhavebeenhigh——tillofallholesandcornersinthelandtheyhavebecomethelowest。Nopublicmanhasbeentrustedforordinaryhonesty。Itisnotbyforeignvoices，byEnglishnewspapersorinFrenchpamphlets，thatthecorruptionofAmericanpoliticianshasbeenexposed，butbyAmericanvoicesandbytheAmericanpress。Itistobeheardoneveryside。Ministersofthecabinet，senators，representatives，Statelegislatures，officersofthearmy，officialsofthenavy，contractorsofeverygrade——allwhoarepresumedtotouch，ortohavethepoweroftouchingpublicmoney，arethusaccused。Foryearsithasbeenso。Thewordpoliticianhasstunkinmen\'snostrils。WhenIfirstvisitedNewYork，somethreeyearssince，Iwaswarnednottoknowaman，becausehewasa“politician。“WeinEnglanddefineamanofacertainclassasablackleg。HowhasitcomeaboutthatinAmericanearsthewordpoliticianhascometobearasimilarsignification？

ThematerialgrowthoftheStateshasbeensoquickthatthepoliticalgrowthhasnotbeenabletokeeppacewithit。Incommerce，ineducation，inallmunicipalarrangements，inmechanicalskill，andalsoinprofessionalabilitythecountryhasstalkedonwithamazingrapidity；butintheartofgoverning，inallpoliticalmanagementanddetail，ithasmadenoadvance。Themerchantsofourcountryandofthatcountryhaveformanyyearsmetontermsofperfectequality；butithasneverbeensowiththeirstatesmenandourstatesmen，withtheirdiplomatistsandourdiplomatists。

LombardStreetandWallStreetcandobusinesswitheachotheronequalfooting，butitisnotsobetweenDowningStreetandtheStateofficeatWashington。ThescienceofstatesmanshiphasyettobelearnedintheStates，andcertainlythehighestlessonofthatscience，whichteachesthathonestyisthebestpolicy。

Itrustthatthewarwillhaveleftsuchalessonbehindit。Ifitdoso，letthecostinmoneybewhatitmay，thatmoneywillnothavebeenwasted。IftheAmericanpeoplecanlearnthenecessityofemployingtheirbestmenfortheirhighestwork——iftheycanrecognizethesehonestmen，andtrustthemwhentheyaresorecognized——thentheymaybecomeasgreatinpoliticsastheyhavebecomegreatincommerceandinsocialinstitutions。

St。Louis，andindeedthewholeStateofMissouri，wasatthetimeofmyvisitundermartiallaw。GeneralHalleckwasincommand，holdinghisheadquartersatSt。Louis，andcarryingout，atanyrateasfarasthecitywasconcerned，whatordershechosetoissue。I

amdisposedtothinkthat，situatedasMissourithenwas，martiallawwasthebestlaw。Nootherlawcouldhavehadforceinatownsurroundedbysoldiers，andinwhichhalfoftheinhabitantswereloyaltotheexistinggovernmentandhalfofthemwereinfavorofrebellion。Thenecessityforsuchpoweristerrible，andthepoweritselfinthehandsofonemanmustbefullofdanger；buteventhatisbetterthananarchy。IwillnotaccuseGeneralHalleckofabusinghispower，seeingthatitishardtodeterminewhatistheabuseofsuchpowerandwhatitsproperuse。WhenwewereatSt。

Louisataxwasbeinggatheredof100l。aheadfromcertainmenpresumedtobesecessionists；and，asthemoneywasnotofcourseveryreadilypaid，thefurnitureofthesesuspectedsecessionistswasbeingsoldbyauction。Nodoubtsuchameasurewasbythemregardedasagreatabuse。Onegentlemaninformedmethat，inadditiontothis，certainhousesofhishadbeentakenbythegovernmentatafixedrent，andthatthepaymentoftherentwasnowrefusedunlesshewouldtaketheoathofallegiance。Henodoubtthoughtthatanabuseofpower！Buttheworstabuseofsuchpowercomesnotatfirst，butwithlongusage。

Uptothetime，however，atwhichIwasatSt。Louis，martiallawhadchieflybeenusedinclosinggrog-shopsandadministeringtheoathofallegiancetosuspectedsecessionists。Somethingalsohadbeendoneinthewayofraisingmoneybysellingthepropertyofconvictedsecessionists；andwhileIwasthereeightmenwerecondemnedtobeshotfordestroyingrailwaybridges。“Butwilltheybeshot？“Iaskedofoneoftheofficers。“Oh，yes。Itwillbedonequietly，andnoonewillknowanythingaboutit；weshallgetusedtothatkindofthingpresently。“AndtheinhabitantsofMissouriwerebecomingusedtomartiallaw。Itissurprisinghowquicklyapeoplecanreconcilethemselvestoalteredcircumstances，whenthechangecomesuponthemwithoutthenecessityofanyexpressedopinionontheirownpart。PersonalfreedomhasbeenconsideredasnecessarytotheAmericanoftheStatesastheairhebreathes。Hadanysuggestionbeenmadetohimofasuspensionoftheprivilegeofhabeascorpus，ofacensorshipofthepress，orofmartiallaw，theAmericanwouldhavedeclaredhiswillingnesstodieontheflooroftheHouseofRepresentatives，andhaveproclaimedwithtenmillionvoiceshisinabilitytoliveundercircumstancessosubversiveofhisrightsasaman。Andhewouldhavethoroughlybelievedthetruthofhisownassertions。Hadachancebeengivenofanargumentonthematter，ofstumpspeechesandcaucusmeetings，thesethingscouldneverhavebeendone。Butasitis，Americansare，Ithink，ratherproudofthesuspensionofthehabeascorpus。

Theypointwithgratificationtotheuniformlyloyaltoneofthenewspapers，remarkingthatanyeditorwhoshoulddaretogiveevenasecessionsqueakwouldimmediatelyfindhimselfshutup。Andnownothingbutgoodisspokenofmartiallaw。IthoughtitanuisancewhenIwaspreventedbysoldiersfromtrottingmyhorsedownPennsylvaniaAvenueinWashington；butIwasassuredbyAmericansthatsuchrestrictionswereveryserviceableinacommunity。AtSt。

Louismartiallawwasquitepopular。WhyshouldnotGeneralHalleckbeaswellabletosaywhatwasgoodforthepeopleasanylaworanylawyer？HehadnointerestintheinjuryoftheState，buteveryinterestinitspreservation。“Butwhat，“Iasked，“wouldbetheeffectwerehetotellyoutoputallyourfiresoutateighto\'clock？““Ifheweresotoorder，weshoulddoit；butweknowthathewillnot。“ButwhodoesknowtowhatGeneralHalleckorothergeneralsmaycome，orhowsoonacurfew-bellmayberinginginAmericantowns？Thewinningoflibertyislongandtedious；butthelosingitisadown-hill，easyjourney。

Itwashere，inSt。Louis，thatGeneralFremontheldhismilitarycourt。Hewasagreatmanhereduringthosehundreddaysthroughwhichhiscommandlasted。Helivedinagreathouse，hadabody-

guard，wasinaccessibleasagreatmanshouldbe，andfaredsumptuouslyeveryday。Hefortifiedthecity——orrather，hebegantodoso。Heconstructedbarrackshere，andinstitutedmilitaryprisons。Thefortificationshavebeendiscontinuedasuseless，butthebarracksandtheprisonsremain。Inthelattertherewere1200

secessionistsoldierswhohadbeentakenintheStateofMissouri。

“Whyaretheynotexchanged？“Iasked。“Becausetheyarenotexactlysoldiers，“Iwasinformed。“Thesecessionistsdonotacknowledgethem。““Thenwoulditnotbecheapertoletthemgo？“

“No，“saidmyinformant；“becauseinthatcasewewouldhavetocatchthemagain。“Andsothe1200remainintheirwretchedprison——

thinnedfromweektoweekandfromdaytodaybyprisondiseaseandprisondeath。

IwentouttwicetoBentonBarracks，asthecampofwoodenhutswascalled，whichGeneralFremonthaderectednearthefair-groundofthecity。Thisfair-ground，Iwastold，hadbeenapleasantplace。

Ithadbeenconstructedfortherecreationofthecity，andforthepurposeofperiodicalagriculturalexhibitions。Thereisstillinitaprettyornamentedcottage，andinthelittlegardenasolitaryCupidstood，dismayedbythedirtandruinaroundhim。Inthefair-

greenaretheroundbuildingsintendedforshowcattleandagriculturalimplements，butnowgivenuptocavalryhorsesandParrottguns。ButBentonBarracksareoutsidethefair-green。Hereonanopenspace，somehalfmileinlength，twolongrowsofwoodenshedshavebeenbuilt，oppositetoeachother，andbehindthemareothershedsusedforstablingandcookingplaces。Thoseinfrontaredivided，notintoseparatehuts，butintochamberscapableofcontainingnearlytwohundredmeneach。Theyweresurroundedontheinsidebygreatwoodentrays，inthreetiers——andoneachtrayfourmenweresupposedtosleep。Iwentintooneortwowhilethecrowdofsoldierswasinthem，butfounditinexpedienttostaytherelong。Thestenchofthoseplaceswasfoulbeyonddescription。

NeverinmylifebeforehadIbeeninaplacesohorridtotheeyesandnoseasBentonBarracks。Thepathalongthefrontoutsidewasdeepinmud。Thewholespacebetweenthetworowsofshedswasonefieldofmud，soslipperythatthefootcouldnotstand。Insideandoutsideeveryspotwasdeepinmud。Thesoldiersweremud-stainedfromfoottosole。Thesevolunteersoldiersareintheirnaturedirty，asmustbeallmenbroughttogetherinnumerousbodieswithoutspecialappliancesforcleanliness，orcontrolanddisciplineastotheirpersonalhabits。ButthedirtofthemenintheBentonBarrackssurpassedanydirtthatIhadhithertoseen。

Norcouldithavebeenotherwisewiththem。Theyweresurroundedbyaseaofmud，andthefoulhovelsinwhichtheyweremadetosleepandlivewerefetidwithstenchandreekingwithfilth。IhadatthistimebeenjoinedbyanotherEnglishman，andwewentthroughthisplacetogether。Whenweinquiredastothehealthofthemen，weheardthesaddesttales——ofthreehundredmengoneoutofoneregiment，ofwholecompaniesthathadperished，ofhospitalscrowdedwithfeveredpatients。Measleshadbeenthegreatscourgeofthesoldiershere——asithadalsobeeninthearmyofthePotomac。I

shallnotsoonforgetmyvisitstoBentonBarracks。ItmaybethatourownsoldierswereasbadlytreatedintheCrimea；orthatFrenchsoldiersweretreatedworseintheirmarchintoRussia。Itmaybethatdirtandwretchedness，diseaseandlistlessidleness，adescentfrommanhoodtohabitslowerthanthoseofthebeasts，arenecessaryinwarfare。Ihavesometimesthoughtthatitisso；butIamnomilitarycritic，andwillnotsay。ThisIsay——thatthedegradationofmentothestateinwhichIsawtheAmericansoldiersinBentonBarracksisdisgracefultohumanity。

GeneralHalleckwasatthistimecommandinginMissouri，andwashimselfstationedatSt。Louis；buthisactivemeasuresagainsttherebelsweregoingontotherightandtotheleft。OntheleftshoreoftheMississippi，atCairo，inIllinois，afleetofgun-

boatswasbeingpreparedtogodowntheriver，andontherightanarmywasadvancingagainstSpringfield，inthesouthwesterndistrictofMissouri，withtheobjectofdislodgingPrice，therebelguerrillaleaderthere，and，ifpossible，ofcatchinghim。PricehadbeentheopponentofpoorGeneralLyons，whowaskilledatWilson\'sCreek，nearSpringfield，andofGeneralFremont，whoduringhishundreddayshadfailedtodrivehimoutoftheState。ThisdutyhadnowbeenintrustedtoGeneralCurtis，whohadforsometimebeenholdinghisheadquartersatRolla，halfwaybetweenSt。LouisandSpringfield。FremonthadbuiltafortatRolla，andithadbecomeamilitarystation。Over10，000menhadbeenthereatonetime，andnowGeneralCurtiswastoadvancefromRollaagainstPricewithsomethingabovethatnumberofmen。Manyofthem，however，hadalreadygoneon，andothersweredailybeingsentupfromSt。Louis。

UnderthesecircumstancesmyfriendandI，fortifiedwithaletterofintroductiontoGeneralCurtis，resolvedtogoandseethearmyatRolla。

OnourwaydownbytherailwayweencounteredayoungGermanofficer，anaide-de-campoftheFederals，andunderhisauspiceswesawRollatoadvantage。Ourcompanionsintherailwaywerechieflysoldiersandteamsters。Thecarwascrowded，andfilledwithtobaccosmoke，applepeel，andfoulair。Inthesecarsduringthewinterthereisalwaysalargelightedstove，astovethatmightcookallthedinnersforaFrenchhotel，andnowindowiseveropened。Amongourfellow-travelerstherewashereandthereawest-

countryMissourifarmergoingdown，undertheprotectionoftheadvancingarmy，tolookaftertheremainsofhischattels——wild，dark，uncouth，savage-lookingmen。OnesuchheroIspeciallyremember，astowhomtheonlynaturalremarkwouldbethatonewouldnotliketomeethimaloneonadarknight。Hewasburlyandbig，unwashedandrough，withablackbeard，shornsometwomonthssince。

Hehadsharp，angryeyes，andsatsilent，pickinghisteethwithabowieknife。ImethimafterwardattheRollaHotel，andfoundthathewasagentlemanofpropertynearSpringfield。Hewasmildandmeekasasuckingdove，askedmyadviceastothestateofhisaffairs，andmerelyguessedthatthingshadbeenprettyroughwithhim。Thingshadbeenprettyroughwithhim。Therebelshadcomeuponhisland。House，fences，stock，andcropwereallgone。Hishomesteadhadbeenmadearuin，andhisfarmhadbeenturnedintoawilderness。Everythingwasgone。HehadcarriedhiswifeandchildrenofftoIllinois，andhadnowreturned，hopingthathemightgetoninthewakeofthearmytillhecouldseethedebrisofhisproperty。Butevenhedidnotseemdisturbed。Hedidnotbemoanhimselforcursehisfate。“Thingswereprettyrough，“hesaid；andthatwasallthathedidsay。

ItwasdarkwhenwegotintoRolla。Everythinghadbeencoveredwithsnow，andeverywherethesnowwasfrozen。Wehadheardthattherewasahotel，andthatpossiblywemightgetabed-roomthere。

Wewerefirsttakentoawoodenbuilding，whichweweretoldwastheheadquartersofthearmy，andinoneroomwefoundacolonelwithalotofsoldiersloafingabout，andinanotheraprovostmartialattendedbyanewspapercorrespondent。Wewerereceivedwithopenarms，andasuggestionwasatoncemadethatwewerenodoubtpickingupnewsforEuropeannewspapers。“AiryouasonoftheMrs。

Trollope？“saidthecorrespondent。“Then，sir，youareanaccessiontoRolla。“UponwhichIwasmadetositdown，andinvitedto“loafabout“attheheadquartersaslongasImightremainatRolla。

Shortly，however，therecameonaviolentdiscussionaboutwagons。

Ageneralhadcomeinandwantedallthecolonel\'swagons，butthecolonelsworethathehadnone，declaredhowbitterlyhewasimpededwithsickmen，andbecameindignantandreproachful。ItwasBrutusandCassiusagain；andaswefeltourselvesintheway，andanxiousmoreovertoascertainwhatmightbethenatureoftheRollahotel，wetookupourheavyportmanteaus——fortheywereheavy——andwithaguidetoshowustheway，startedoffthroughthedarkandoverthehilluptoourinn。Ishallneverforgetthatwalk。Itwasuphillanddownhill，withanoccasionalhalf-frozenstreamacrossit。Myfriendwasimpededwithanenormouscloaklinedwithfur，whichinitselfwasaburdenforacoalheaver。Ourguide，whowasaclerkoutofthecolonel\'soffice，carriedanumbrellaandasmalldressing-bag，butweourselvesmanfullyshoulderedourportmanteaus。

SydneySmithdeclaredthatanEnglishmanonlywastedhistimeintraininghimselfforgymnasticaptitudes，seeingthatforashillinghecouldalwayshireaporter。HadSydneySmitheverbeenatRollahewouldhavewrittendifferently。IcouldtellatgreatlengthhowIfellonmyfaceintheicysnow，howmyfriendstuckinthefrozenmudwhenheessayedtojumpthestream，andhowourguidewalkedoneasilyinadvance，encouraginguswithhisvoicefromadistance。

WhyisitthatastoutEnglishmanborderingonfiftyfindshimselfinsuchapredicamentasthat？NoFrenchman，noItalian，noGermanwouldsoplacehimself，unlessunderthestressofinsurmountablecircumstances。NoAmericanwoulddosounderanycircumstances。AsIslippedaboutontheiceandgroanedwiththatterriblefardleonmyback，burdenedwithadozenshirts，andasuitofdressclothes，andthreepairofboots，andfourorfivethickvolumes，andasetofmaps，andaboxofcigars，andawashingtub，IconfessedtomyselfthatIwasafool。WhatwasIdoinginsuchagalleyasthat？WhyhadIbroughtallthatuselesslumberdowntoRolla？WhyhadIcometoRolla，withnocertainhopeevenofshelterforanight？Butwedidreachthehotel；wedidgetaroombetweenuswithtwobedsteads。Andponderingoverthematterinmymind，sincethatevening，IhavebeeninclinedtothinkthatthestoutEnglishmanisintherightofit。NoAmericanofmyageandweightwillevergothroughwhatIwentthroughthen，butIamnotsurethathedoesnotinhisaccustomedcareergothroughworsethingseventhanthat。However，ifIgotoRollaagainduringthewar，I

willatanyrateleavethebooksbehindme。

Whatanightwespentinthatinn！TheywhoknowAmericawillbeawarethatinallhotelsthereisafreeadmixtureofdifferentclasses。ThetravelerinEuropemaysitdowntodinnerwithhistailorandshoemaker；butifso，histailorandshoemakerhavedressedthemselvesashedresses，andarepreparedtocarrythemselvesaccordingtoacertainstandard，whichinexteriordoesnotdifferfromhisown。InthelargeEasterncitiesoftheStates，suchasBoston，NewYork，andWashington，asimilarpracticeoflifeisgraduallybecomingprevalent。Therearevarioushotelsforvariousclasses，andtheordinarytravelerdoesnotfindhimselfatthesametablewithabutcherfreshfromtheshambles。ButintheWesttherearenodistinctionswhatever。Aman\'samanfora\'thatintheWest，letthe“a\'that“comprisewhatitmayofcoarseattireandunsophisticatedmanners。Onesoongetsusedtoit。InthatinnatRollawasapublicroom，heatedinthemiddlebyastove，androundthatwesoonfoundourselvesseatedinacompanyofsoldiers，farmers，laborers，andteamsters。Buttherewasamongthemageneral；notafighting，orwould-befightinggeneralofthepresenttime，butoneoftheold-fashionedlocalgenerals，——menwhoheld，orhadonceheld，somefabulousgeneralshipintheStatemilitia。

Therewesat，cheekbyjowlwithournewfriends，tillnearlytwelveo\'clock，talkingpoliticsanddiscussingthewar。ThegeneralwasastanchUnionist，having，accordingtohisownshowing，suffereddreadfulthingsfromsecessionistpersecutorssincetherebellioncommenced。AsamatterofcourseeverybodypresentwasfortheUnion。Insuchaplaceonerarelyencountersanydifferenceofopinion。Thegeneralwasveryeageraboutthewar，advocatingtheimmediateabolitionofslavery，notasameansofimprovingtheconditionoftheSouthernslaves，butonthegroundthatitwouldruintheSouthernmasters。Weallsatby，edginginawordnowandthen，butthegeneralwasthetalkeroftheevening。Hewasverywrathy，andsworeateveryotherword。“Itwasprettywelltime，“

hesaid，“tocrushoutthisrebellion，andby——itmustandshouldbecrushedout；GeneralJimLanewasthemantodoit，andby——GeneralJimLanewoulddoit！“andsoon。Inallsuchconversationsthetimeforactionhasalwaysjustcome，andalsotheexpectedman。Butthetimepassesbyasotherweeksandmonthshavepassedbeforeit，andthenewgeneralisfoundtobenomoresuccessfulthanhisbrethren。OurfriendwasveryangryagainstEngland。“Whenwe\'vepolishedofftheseaccursedrebels，Iguesswe\'lltakeaturnatyou。YouhadyourturnwhenyoumadeusgiveupMasonandSlidell，andwe\'llhaveourturnby-and-by。“ButinspiteofhisdisliketoournationheinviteduswarmlytocomeandseehimathishomeontheMissouriRiver。Itwas，accordingtohisshowing，anewEden，aParadiseuponearth。Heseemedtothinkthatwemightperhapsdesiretobuyalocation，andexplainedtoushowreadilywecouldmakeourfortunes。Butheadmittedinthecourseofhiseulogiumsthatitwouldbeasmuchashislifewasworthtohimtorideoutfivemilesfromhisownhouse。Inthemeantimetheteamstersgreasedtheirboots，thesoldierssnored，thosewhowerewettookofftheirshoesandstockings，hangingthemtodryroundthestove，andtheWesternfarmerschewedtobaccoinsilence，andruminated。Atsuchahousealltheguestsgointotheirmealstogether。Agongissoundedonasudden，closebehindyourears；

accustomedasyoumayprobablybetothesound，youjumpupfromyourchairintheagonyofthecrash，andbythetimethatyouhavecollectedyourthoughtsthewholecrowdisoffinageneralstampedeintotheeating-room。Youmayaswelljointhem；ifyouhesitateastofeedingwithsoroughalotofmen，youwillhavetosetdownafterwardwiththewomenandchildrenofthefamily，andyourlotwillthenbeworse。AmongsuchclassesintheWesternStatesthemenarealwaysbetterthanthewomen。Themenaredirtyandcivil，thewomenaredirtyanduncivil。

Onthefollowingdaywevisitedthecamp，goingoutinanambulanceandreturningonhorseback。Wewereaccompaniedbythegeneral\'said-de-camp，andalso，toourgreatgratification，bythegeneral\'sdaughter。Therehadbeenahardfrostforsomenights，butthoughthecoldwasverygreattherewasalwaysheatenoughinthemiddleofthedaytoturnthesurfaceofthegroundintoglutinousmud；

consequentlywehadalltheroughnessinducedbyfrost，butnoneoftheusuallyattendantcleanliness。Indeed，itseemedthatinthesepartsnothingwassodirtyasfrost。Themudstucklikepasteandencompassedeverything。Weheardthatmorningthatfromsixtytoseventybaggagewagonshad“brokenthrough，“astheycalledit，andstuckfastnearariver，intheirendeavortomaketheirwayontoLebanon。Weencounteredtwogeneralsofbrigade，GeneralSiegel，aGerman，andGeneralAshboth，aHungarian，bothofwhomwerewaitingtilltheweathershouldallowthemtoadvance。Theywereextremelycourteous，andwarmlyinvitedustogoonwiththemtoLebanonandSpringfield，promisingtoussuchaccommodationastheymightbeabletoobtainforthemselves。Iwasmuchtemptedtoaccepttheoffer；butIfoundthatdayafterdaymightpassbeforeanyforwardmovementwascommenced，andthatitmightbeweeksbeforeSpringfieldorevenLebanoncouldbereached。Itwasmywish，moreover，toseewhatIcouldofthepeople，ratherthantoscrutinizethewaysofthearmy。WedinedatthetentofGeneralAshboth，andafterwardrodehishorsesthroughthecampbacktoRolla，IwasgreatlytakenwiththisHungariangentleman。Hewasatall，thin，gauntmanoffifty，apure-bloodedMagyaraIwastold，whohadcomefromhisowncountrywithKossuthtoAmerica。Hiscampcircumstanceswerenotveryluxurious，norwashistableveryrichlyspread；buthereceiveduswiththeeaseandcourtesyofagentleman。Heshowedushissword，hisrifle，hispistols，hischargers，anddaguerreotypeofafriendhehadlovedinhisowncountry。Theywereallthetreasuresthathecarriedwithhim——overandaboveachess-boardandasetofchessmen，whichsorelytemptedmetoaccompanyhiminhismarch。

Inmynextchapter，whichwill，Itrust，beveryshort，IpurporttosayafewwordsastowhatIsawoftheAmericanarmy，andthereforeIwillnotnowdescribetheregimentswhichwevisited。Thetentswereallencompassedbysnow，andthegroundonwhichtheystoodwasabedofmud；butyetthesoldiersoutherewerenotsowretchedlyforlorn，orapparentlysomiserablyuncomfortable，asthoseatBentonBarracks。Ididnotencounterthathorridsicklystench，norwerethemensopaleandwoe-begone。OnthefollowingdaywereturnedtoSt。Louis，bringingbackwithusourfriendtheGermanaid-de-camp。Istayedtwodayslongerinthatcity，andthenI

thoughtthatIhadseenenoughofMissouri；enoughofMissouriatanyrateunderthepresentcircumstancesoffrostandsecession。AsregardsthepeopleoftheWest，ImustsaythattheywerenotsuchasIexpectedtofindthem。WiththeNorthernsweareallmoreorlessintimatelyacquainted。ThoseAmericanswhomwemeetinourowncountry，oronthecontinent，aregenerallyfromtheNorth，orifnotsotheyhavethattypeofAmericanmannerswhichhasbecomefamiliartous。Theyaretalkative，intelligent，inclinedtobesocial，thoughfrequentlynotsympatheticallysocialwithourselves；

somewhatsoi-disant，butalmostinvariablycompanionable。AsthetravelergoessouthwardintoMarylandandWashington，thetypeisnotalteredtoanygreatextent。ThehardintelligenceoftheYankeegivesplacegraduallytothesofter，andperhapsmorepolished，manneroftheSouthern。ButthechangethusexperiencedisnotgreatasisthatbetweentheAmericanoftheWesternandtheAmericanoftheAtlanticStates。IntheWestIfoundthemengloomyandsilent——Imightalmostsaysullen。Adozenofthemwillsitforhoursroundastove，speechless。Theychewtobaccoandruminate。

Theyarenotoffendedifyouspeaktothem，buttheyarenotpleased。Theyanswerwithmonosyllables，or，ifitbepracticable，withagestureofthehead。Theycarenothingforthegracesor——

shallIsay——forthedecenciesoflife。Theyareessentiallyadirtypeople。Dirt，untidiness，andnoiseseeminnowisetoafflictthem。Thingsareconstantlydonebeforeyoureyeswhichshouldbedoneandmightbedonebehindyourback。Nodoubtwedailycomeintotheclosestcontactwithmatterswhich，ifwesawallthatappertainstothem，wouldcauseustoshakeandshudder。Inothercountrieswedonotseeallthis，butintheWesternStateswedo。

IhaveeateninBedouintents，andhavebeenministeredtobyTurksandArabs。IhavesojournedinthehotelsofoldSpainandofSpanishAmerica。IhavelivedinConnaught，andhavetakenupmyquarterswithmonksofdifferentnations。Ihave，asitwere，beeneducatedtodirt，andtakenoutmydegreeinoutwardabominations。

ButmyeducationhadnotreachedapointwhichwouldenablemetoliveatmyeaseintheWesternStates。Amanorwomanwhocandothatmaybesaidtohavegraduatedinthehighesthonors，andtohavebecomeabsolutelyinvulnerable，eitherthroughthesenseoftouch，orbytheeye，orbythenose。Indifferencetoappearancesisthereamatterofpride。Afoulshirtisaflagoftriumph。A

cravingforsoapandwaterisasthewailoftheweakandtheconfessionofcowardice。Thisindifferenceiscarriedintoalltheiraffairs，orratherthismanifestationofindifference。Afewpagesback，Ispokeofamanwhosefurniturehadbeensoldtopayaheavytaxraisedonhimspeciallyasasecessionist；thesamemanhadalsobeenrefusedthepaymentofrentduetohimbythegovernment，unlesshewouldtakeafalseoath。ImaypresumethathewasruinedinhiscircumstancesbythestronghandoftheNorthernarmy。Butheseemedinnowisetobeunhappyabouthisruin。HespokewithsomescornofthemartiallawinMissouri，butIfeltthatitwasesteemedasmallmatterbyhimthathisfurniturewasseizedandsold。NomenlovemoneywithmoreeagerlovethantheseWesternmen，buttheybearthelossofitasanIndianbearshistortureatthestake。Theyareenergeticintrade，speculatingdeeplywheneverspeculationispossible；butneverthelesstheyareslowinmotion，lovingtoloafabout。Theyareslowinspeech，preferringtositinsilence，withthetobaccobetweentheirteeth。

Theydrink，butareseldomdrunktotheeye；theybeginatitearlyinthemorning，andtakeitinasolemn，sullen，uglymanner，standingalwaysatabar；swallowingtheirspirits，andsayingnothingastheyswallowit。Theydrinkoften，andtogreatexcess；

buttheycarryitoffwithoutnoise，sittingdownandruminatingoveritwiththeeverlastingcudwithintheirjaws。IbelievethatastrangermightgointotheWest，andpassingfromhoteltohotelthroughadozenofthem，mightsitforhoursateachinthelargeeverlastingpublichall，andneverhaveawordaddressedtohim。NostrangershouldtravelintheWesternStates，orindeedinanyoftheStates，withoutlettersofintroduction。Itisthecustomofthecountry，andtheyareeasilyprocured。Withoutthemeverythingisbarren；formendonottravelintheStatesofAmericaastheydoinEurope，toseesceneryandvisitthemarvelsofoldcitieswhichareopentoalltheworld。ThesocialandpoliticallifeoftheAmericanmustconstitutetheinterestofthetraveler，andtothesehecanhardlymakehiswaywithoutintroductions。

IcannotpartwiththeWestwithoutsaying，initsfavor，thatthereisacertainmanlinessaboutitsmenwhichgivesthemadignityoftheirown。ItisshowninthatveryindifferenceofwhichIhavespoken。Whateverturnsup，themanisstillthere；stillunsophisticatedandstillunbroken。Ithasseemedtomethatnoraceofmenrequireslessoutwardassistancethanthesepioneersofcivilization。Theyrarelyamusethemselves。Food，newspapers，andbrandysmashessufficeforlife；andwhiletheselast，whatevermayoccur，themanisstillthereinhismanhood。Thefuryofthemobdoesnotshakehim，northesterncountenanceofhispresentmartialtyrant。Alas！Icannotsticktomytextbycallinghimajustman。

Intelligence，energy，andendurancearehisvirtues。Dirt，dishonesty，andmorningdrinksarehisvices。

AllnativeAmericanwomenareintelligent。Itseemstobetheirbirthright。IntheEasterncitiestheyhave，intheirupperclasses，superaddedwomanlygracetothisintelligence，andconsequentlytheyarecharmingascompanions。Theyarebeautifulalso，and，asIbelieve，lacknothingthatalovercandesireinhislove。ButIcannotfancymyselfmuchinlovewithaWesternlady，orratherwithaladyintheWest。Theyareassharpasnails，butthentheyarealsoashard。Theyknow，doubtless，allthattheyoughttoknow，butthentheyknowsomuchmorethantheyoughttoknow。Theyaretyrantstotheirparents，andneverpracticethevirtueofobediencetilltheyhavehalf-grownupdaughtersoftheirown。Theyhavefaithinthedestinyoftheircountry，ifinnothingelse；buttheybelievethatthatdestinyistobeworkedoutbythespiritandtalentoftheyoungwomen。IconfessthatformeEvewouldhavehadnocharmshadshenotrecognizedAdamasherlord。I

canforgiveherinthatshetemptedhimtoeattheapple。HadshecomefromtheWestcountry，shewouldhaveorderedhimtomakehismeal，andthenIcouldnothaveforgivenher。

St。Louisshouldbe，andstillwillbe，atownofgreatwealth。Tonocitycanhavebeengivenmoremeansofriches。Ihavespokenoftheenormousmileageofwatercommunicationofwhichsheisthecenter。ThecountryaroundherproducesIndian-corn，wheat，grasses，hemp，andtobacco。Coalisdugevenwithintheboundariesofthecity，andironminesareworkedatadistancefromitofahundredmiles。Theironissopurethatitisbrokenoffinsolidblocks，almostfreefromalloy；andasthemetalstandsupontheearth\'ssurfaceintheguisealmostofagiganticmetalpillar，insteadoflyinglowwithinitsbowels，itisworkedatacheaprate，andwithgreatcertainty。Nevertheless，atthepresentmoment，theironworksofPilotKnob，astheplaceiscalled，donotpay。AsfarasIcouldlearn，nothingdidpay，exceptgovernmentcontracts。

CHAPTERVI

CAIROANDCAMPWOOD。

Towhateverperiodoflifemydaysmaybeprolonged，IdonotthinkthatIshalleverforgetCairo。IdonotmeanGrandCairo，whichisalsomemorableinitsway，andaplacenottobeforgotten，butCairointheStateofIllinois，whichbynativeAmericansisalwayscalledCaaro。AnideaisprevalentintheStates——andIthinkI

haveheardthesamebroachedinEngland——thatapopularBritishauthorhadCairo，StateofIllinois，inhiseyewhen，underthenameofEden，hedepictedachosen，happyspotontheMississippiRiver，andtoldushowcertainEnglishimmigrantsfixedthemselvesinthatlocality，andtheremadelightofthoselittleillsoflifewhichareincidenttohumanityeveninthegardenofthevalleyoftheMississippi。ButIdoubtwhetherthatauthorevervisitedCairoinmidwinter，andIamsurethathenevervisitedCairowhenCairowastheseatofanAmericanarmy。Hadhedoneso，hisloveoftruthwouldhaveforbiddenhimtopresumethatevenMarkTapleycouldhaveenjoyedhimselfinsuchanEden。

IhadnowishmyselftogotoCairo，havinghearditbutindifferentlyspokenofbyallmen；butmyfriendwithwhomIwastravelingwasperemptoryinthematter。Hehadheardofgun-boatsandmortar-boats，offortsbuiltupontheriver，ofColumbiads，Dahlgrens，andParrotts，ofallthepompsandcircumstanceofgloriouswar，andentertainedanideathatCairowasthenucleusorpivotofallreallystrategeticmovementsinthisterriblenationalstruggle。UndersuchcircumstancesIwasasitwereforcedtogotoCairo，andboremyself，underthecircumstances，asmuchlikeMarkTapleyasmynaturewouldpermit。IwasnotjollywhileIwastherecertainly，butIdidnotabsolutelybreakdownandperishinitsmud。

CairoisthesouthernterminusoftheIllinoisCentralRailway。

Thereisbutonedailyarrivalthere，namely，athalf-pastfourinthemorning；andbutonedispatch，whichisathalf-pastthreeinthemorning。EverythingisthusdonetoassistthatviewoflifewhichMarkTapleytookwhenheresolvedtoascertainunderwhatpossibleworstcircumstancesofexistencehecouldstillmaintainhisjovialcharacter。WhyanybodyshouldeverarriveatCairoathalf-pastfourA。M。，Icannotunderstand。Thedepartureatanyhouriseasyofcomprehension。TheplaceissituatedexactlyatthepointatwhichtheOhioandtheMississippimeet，andis，Ishouldsay——merelyguessingonthematter——sometenortwelvefeetlowerthanthewinterlevelofthetworivers。Thisgivesitnaturallyadepressedappearance，whichmusthavemuchaidedMarkTapleyinhisendeavors。WhowerethefoundersofCairoIhaveneverascertained。

Theyareprobablyburiedfathomsdeepinthemud，andtheirnameswillnodoubtremainamysterytothelatestages。Theywerebroughtthither，Ipresume，bytheapparentwaterprivilegesoftheplace；butthewaterprivilegeshavebeentoomuchforthem，andbytheexcessoftheirpowershavesucceededindrowningallthecapitaloftheearlyCairovians，andinthrowingawetblanketofthick，moist，glutinousdirtoveralltheirenergies。

ThefreeStateofIllinoisrunsdownfarsouthbetweentheslaveStatesofKentuckytotheeast，andofMissouritothewest，andisthemostsouthernpointofthecontinuousfree-soilterritoryoftheNorthernStates。ThispointofitisapartofadistrictcalledEgypt，whichisasfertileastheoldcountryfromwhenceithasborrowedaname；butitsuffersunderthoseafflictionswhicharecommontoallnewly-settledlandswhichowetheirfertilitytothevicinityofgreatrivers。Feverandagueuniversallyprevail。Menandwomengrowupwiththeirlanternfaceslikespecters。Thechildrenareprematurelyold；andtheearth，whichissofruitful，ishideousinitsfertility。Cairoanditsimmediateneighborhoodmust，Isuppose，havebeensubjecttoyearlyinundationbeforeitwas“settledup。“Atpresentitisguardedontheshoresofeachriverbyhighmudbanks，builtsoastoprotectthepointofland。

Thesearecalledthelevees，anddoperformtheirdutybykeepingoutthebodyofthewaters。Theshorebetweenthebanksis，I

believe，neverabovebreast-deepwiththeinundation；andfromthecircumstancesoftheplace，andthesoft，half-liquidnatureofthesoil，thisinundationgenerallytakestheshapeofmudinsteadofwater。

Here，attheverypoint，hasbeenbuiltatown。WhetherthetownexistedduringMr。Tapley\'stimeIhavenotbeenabletolearn。Attheperiodofmyvisititwasfallingquicklyintoruin；indeed，I

thinkImaypronounceittohavebeenonitslastlegs。AtthatmomentagalvanicmotionhadbeenpumpedintoitbythewarmovementsofGeneralHalleck；butthetruebearingsofthetown，asatown，werenotlessplainlytobereadonthataccount。Everystreetwasabsolutelyimpassablefrommud。ImeanthatinwalkingdownthemiddleofanystreetinCairo，amoderately-framedmanwouldsoonstickfast，andnotbeabletomove。Thehousesaregenerallybuiltatconsiderableintervals，andrarelyfaceeachother；andalongonesideofeachstreetaplankboardingwaslaid，onwhichthemudhadaccumulatedonlyuptoone\'sankles。IwalkedalloverCairowithbigboots，andwithmytrowserstuckeduptomyknees；butatthecrossingsIfoundconsiderabledanger，andoccasionallyhadmydoubtsastothepossibilityofprogress。Iwasaloneinmywork，andsawnooneelsemakinganysuchattempt。Butfewonlyweremovingabout，andtheymovedinwretchedcarts，eachdrawnbytwomiserable，flounderinghorses。Thesecartswerealwaysempty，butwerepresumedtobeengagedinsomewayonmilitaryservice。Nofaceslookedoutatthewindowsofthehouses，noformsstoodinthedoorways。Afewshopswereopen，butonlyinthedrinking-shopsdidIseecustomers。Inthese，silent，muddymenweresitting，notwithdrinkbeforethem，asmensitwithus，butwiththecudwithintheirjaws，ruminating。Theirdrinkingisalwaysdoneonfoot。Theystandsilentatabar，withtwosmallglassesbeforethem。Outofonetheyswallowthewhisky，andfromtheothertheytakeagulpofwater，asthoughtorinsetheirmouths。Afterthat，theyagainsitdownandruminate。ItwasthusthatmenenjoyedthemselvesatCairo。

IcannottellwhatwastheexistingpopulationofCairo。Iaskedoneresident；butheonlyshookhisheadandsaidthattheplacewasabout“playedout。“Andamiserableplayitmusthavebeen。I

triedtowalkroundthepointonthelevees，butIfoundthatthemudwassodeepandslipperyonthatwhichprotectedthetownfromtheMississippithatIcouldnotmoveonit。Ontheother，whichformsthebankoftheOhio，therailwayruns，andherewasgatheredallthelifeandmovementoftheplace。Butthelifewasgalvanicinitsnature，createdbyawargalvanismofwhichtheshockswerealmostneutralizedbymud。

AsCairoisofalltownsinAmericathemostdesolate，soisitshotelthemostforlornandwretched。Notthatitlackedcustom。ItwassofullthatnoroomwastobehadonourfirstentryfromtherailwaycarsatfiveA。M。，andwewerereducedtothenecessityofwashingourhandsandfacesinthepublicwash-room。WhenIentereditthebarberandhisassistantswereasleepthere，andfourorfivecitizensfromtherailwaywerebusyatthebasins。Thereisafixedresolutionintheseplacesthatyoushallbedrenchedwithdirtanddrownedinabominations，whichisoverpoweringtoamindlessstrongthanMarkTapley\'s。Thefilthisparadedandmadetogoasfaraspossible。Thestrangerissparednoneoftheelementsofnastiness。

Irememberhowanoldwomanoncestoodovermeinmyyouth，forcingmetoswallowthegrittydregsofherterriblemedicinecup。ThetreatmentIreceivedinthehotelatCairoremindedmeofthatoldwoman。InthatroomIdidnotdaretobrushmyteethlestIshouldgiveoffense；andIsawatoncethatIwasregardedwithsuspicionwhenIusedmyowncombinsteadofthatprovidedforthepublic。

Atlengthwegotaroom，oneroomforthetwo。IhadbecomesodepressedinspiritsthatIdidnotdaretoobjecttothisarrangement。Myfriendcouldnotcomplainmuch，eventome，feelingthatthesemiserieshadbeenproducedbyhisownobstinacy。“Itisanewphaseoflife，“hesaid。Thatatanyratewastrue。Ifnothingmorebenecessaryforpleasurableexcitementthananewphaseoflife，IwouldrecommendallwhorequirepleasurableexcitementtogotoCairo。Theywillcertainlyfindanewphaseoflife。Butdonotletthemremaintoolong，ortheymayfindsomethingbeyondanewphaseoflife。Withinaweekofthattimemyfriendwastakingquinine，lookinghollowabouttheeyes，andwhisperingtomeoffeverandague。Tosaythattherewasnothingeatableordrinkableinthathotel，wouldbetotellthatwhichwillbeunderstoodwithouttelling。Myfriend，however，wasacautiousman，carryingwithhimcomfortabletinpots，hermeticallysealed，fromFortnum&Mason\'s；andontheseconddayofoursojournwewereinvitedbytwoofficerstojointheirdinnerataCairoeating-

house。Weplowedourwaygallantlythroughthemudtoalittleshanty，atthedoorofwhichwewereperemptorilycommandedbythelandlordtoscrubourselves，beforeweentered，withthestumpofanoldbroom。Thiswedid，producingonournetherpersonstheappearanceofbreadwhichhasbeencarefullyspreadwithtreaclebyaneconomichousekeeper。Andtheproprietorwasright，forhadwenotdoneso，thetreaclewouldhaverunoffthroughthewholehouse。

Butafterthiswefaredroyally。Squirrelsoupandprairiechickensregaledus。Oneofournewfriendshadladenhispocketswithchampagneandbrandy；theotherwithglassesandacorkscrew；andasthebottlewentround，IbegantofeelsomethingofthespiritofMarkTapleyinmysoul。

ButourvisittoCairohadbeenmaderatherwithreferencetoitspresentwarlikecharacterthanwithanyeyetothenaturalbeautiesoftheplace。Alargeforceofmenhadbeencollectedthere，andalsoafleetofgun-boats。Wehadcometherefortifiedwithletterstogeneralsandcommodores，andwerepreparedtogothroughalargeamountofmilitaryinspection。Butthebirdhadflownbeforeourarrival；orratherthebodyandwingsofthebird，leavingbehindonlyadraggledtailandafewofitsfeathers。TherewereonlyathousandsoldiersatCairowhenwewerethere——thatis，athousandstationedintheCairosheds。Tworegimentspassedthroughtheplaceduringthetime，gettingoutofonesteamerontoanother，orpassingfromtherailwayintoboats。Oneoftheseregimentspassedbeforemedowntheslopeoftheriverbank，andthemenasabodyseemedtobehealthy。Verymanyweredrunk，andallweremud-

cloggeduptotheirshouldersandverycaps。Inotherrespectstheyappearedtobeingoodorder。Itmustbeunderstoodthatthesesoldiers，thevolunteers，hadneverbeenmadesubjecttoanydisciplineastocleanliness。Theyworetheirhairlong。Theirhatsorcaps，thoughallmadeinsomemilitaryformandwithsomemilitaryappendance，werevariousandillassorted。Theyallwerecoveredwithloose，thick，blue-graygreat-coats，whichnodoubtwerewarmandwholesome，butwhichfromtheirloosenessandcolorseemedtobepeculiarlysusceptibleofreceivingandshowingaverylargeamountofmud。Theirbootswerealwaysgood；buteachmanwasshodasheliked。Manyworeheavyoverbootscominguptheleg——

bootsofexcellentmanufacture，andfromtheircost，iffornootherreason，quiteoutofthereachofanEnglishsoldier——bootsinwhichamanwouldbenotatallunfortunatetofindhimselfhunting；butfromthese，orfromtheirhigh-lows，shoes，orwhatevertheymightwear，themudhadneverbeenevenscraped。Thesemenwereallwarmlyclothed，butclothedapparentlywithanendeavortocontractasmuchmudasmightbepossible。

ThegeneralsandcommodoresweregoneuptheOhioRiveranduptheTennesseeinanexpeditionwithgunboats，whichturnedouttobesuccessful，andofwhichwehaveallreadinthedailyhistoryofthiswar。Theyhaddepartedthedaybeforeourarrival；andthoughwestillfoundatCairoasquadronofgun-boats——ifgun-boatsgoinsquadrons——thebulkofthearmyhadbeenmoved。Therewereleftthereoneregimentandonecolonel，whokindlydescribedtousthebattleshehadfought，andgaveuspermissiontoseeeverythingthatwastobeseen。Fourofthesegun-boatswerestilllyingintheOhio，closeundertheterminusoftherailway，withtheirflat，uglynosesagainstthemuddybank；andwewereshownovertwoofthem。

Theycertainlyseemedtobeformidableweaponsforriverwarfare，andtohavebeen“gotupquiteirrespectiveofexpense。“Somuch，indeed，maybesaidfortheAmericansthroughoutthewar。Theycannotbeaccusedofparsimony。Thelargestofthesevessels，calledthe“Benton，“hadcost36，000l。Theseboatsaremadewithsidesslopinginwardatanangleofforty-fivedegrees。Theironistwoandahalfinchesthick，andithasnot，Ibelieve，beencalculatedthatthiswillresistcannon-shotofgreatweight，shoulditbestruckinadirectline。Buttheangleofthesidesoftheboatmakesitimprobablethatanysuchshotshouldstrikethem；andtheiron，beddedasitisuponoak，issupposedtobesufficienttoturnashotthatdoesnothititinadirectline。Theboatsarealsoroofedinwithiron；andthepilotswhosteerthevesselstandincased，asitwere，underanironcupola。Iimaginethattheseboatsarewellcalculatedfortheriverservice，forwhichtheyhavebeenbuilt。SixorsevenofthemhadgoneuptheTennesseeRiverthedaybeforewereachedCairo；andwhileweweretheretheysucceededinknockingdownFortHenry，andincarryingoffthesoldiersstationedthereandtheofficerincommand。Oneoftheboats，however，hadbeenpenetratedbyashot，whichmadeitswayintotheboiler；andthemenondeck——six，Ithink，innumber——werescaldedtodeathbytheescapingsteam。Thetwopilotsupinthecupolaweredestroyedinthisterriblemanner。Astheywerealtogetherclosedinbytheironroofandsides，therewasnoescapeforthesteam。Theboats，however，werewellmadeandverypowerfullyarmed，andwillprobablysucceedindrivingthesecessionistarmiesawayfromthegreatriverbanks。Bywhatmachinerythesecessionistarmiesaretobefollowedintotheinteriorisaltogetheranotherquestion。

ButtherewasalsoanotherfleetatCairo，andwewereinformedthatwewerejustintimetoseethefirstessaymadeattestingtheutilityofthisarmada。Itconsistedofnolessthanthirty-eightmortar-boats，eachofwhichhadcost1700l。Thesemortar-boatswerebroad，flat-bottomedrafts，eachconstructedwithadeckraisedthreefeetabovethebottom。Theywereprotectedbyhighironsidessupposedtobeproofagainstrifle-balls，and，whensupplied，hadbeenfurnishedeachwithalittleboat，arope，andfourroughsweepsoroars。Theyhadnootherfurnitureorbelongings，andweretobemovedeitherbysteam-tugsorbytheuseofthelongoarswhichweresentwiththem。Itwasintendedthatone13-inchmortar，ofenormousweight，shouldbeputuponeach；thatthesemortarsshouldbefiredwithtwenty-threepoundsofpowder；andthattheshellthrownshould，atadistanceofthreemiles，fallwithabsoluteprecisionintoanydevotedtownwhichtherebelsmightholdtheriverbanks。Thegrandeuroftheideaisalmostsublime。Solargeanamountofpowderhad，Iimagine，neverthenbeenusedforthesinglechargeinanyinstrumentofwar；andwhenweweretoldthatthirty-eightofthemweretoplayatonceonacity，andthattheycouldbeusedwithabsoluteprecision，itseemedasthoughthefateofSodomandGomorrahcouldnotbeworsethanthefateofthatcity。Couldanycitybesafewhensuchimplementsofwarwereaboutuponthewaters？

Butwhenwecametoinspectthemortar-boats，ourmisgivingsastoanyfuturedestinationforthisfleetwererelieved；andouradmirationwasgiventothesmartnessofthecontractorwhohadsecuredtohimselfthejobofbuildingthem。Inthefirstplace，theyhadallleakedtillthespacesbetweenthebottomsandthedeckswerefilledwithwater。Thisspacehadbeenintendedforammunition，butnowseemedhardlytobefittedforthatpurpose。

Theofficerwhowasabouttotestthem，byputtingamortarintooneandbyfiringitoffwithtwenty-threepoundsofpowder，hadthewaterpumpedoutofaselectedraft；andweweretowedbyasteam-

tug，fromtheirmooringsamileuptheriver，downtothespotwherethemortarlayreadytobeliftedinbyaderrick。Butasweturnedontheriver，thetug-boatwhichhadbroughtusdownwasunabletoholdusupagainsttheforceofthestream。Asecondtug-boatwasathand；and，withoneoneachside，wewerejustableinhalfanhourtorecoverthehundredyardswhichwehadlostdowntheriver。

Thepressureagainstthestreamwassogreat，owingpartlytotheweightoftheraftandpartlytothefactthatitsflatheadburieditselfinthewater，thatitwasalmostimmovableagainstthestream，althoughthemortarwasnotyetonit。

Itsoonbecamemanifestthatnotrialcouldbemadeonthatday，andsowewereobligedtoleaveCairowithouthavingwitnessedthefiringofthegreatgun。Mybeliefisthatverylittleeviltotheenemywillresultfromthosemortar-boats，andthattheycannotbeusedwithmucheffect。SincethattimetheyhavebeenusedontheMississippi，butasyetwedonotknowwithwhatresults。IslandNo。10hasbeentaken；butIdonotknowthatthemortar-boatscontributedmuchtothatsuccess。Buttheenormouscostofmovingthemagainstthestreamoftheriverisinitselfabarriertotheiruse。Whenwesawthem——andthentheywerequitenew——manyoftherivetswerealreadygone。Thesmallboatshadbeenstolenfromsomeofthem，andtheropesandoarsfromothers。Theretheylay，thirty-eightinnumber，upagainstthemudbanksoftheOhio，undertheboughsofthehalf-clad，melancholyforesttrees，assadaspectacleofrecklessprodigalityastheeyeeverbeheld。Butthecontractorwhomadethemnodoubtwasasmartman。

ThisarmadawasmooredontheOhio，againstthelow，reedybank，amileabovethelevee，wheretheold，unchangedforestofnaturecamedowntotheveryedgeoftheriver，andmixeditselfwiththeshallow，overflowingwaters。Iamwronginsayingthatitlayundertheboughsofthetrees，forsuchtreesdonotspreadthemselvesoutwithbroadbranches。Theystandthicklytogether，broken，stunted，spongywithrot，straight，andugly，withraggedtopsandshatteredarms，seeminglydecayed，butstilleverrenewingthemselveswiththerapid，moistlifeofluxuriantforestvegetation。Nothingtomyeyesissadderthanthemonotonousdesolationofsuchscenery。WeinEngland，whenwereadandspeakoftheprimevalforestsofAmerica，areapttoformpicturesinourmindsofwoodlandglades，withspreadingoaks，andgreen，mossyturfbeneath——ofscenesthanwhichnothingthatGodhasgivenusismorecharming。Buttheseforestsarenotafterthatfashion；theyoffernoallurementtothelover，nosolacetothemelancholymanofthought。Thegroundisdeepwithmudoroverflownwithwater。Thesoilandtheriverhavenodefinedmargins。Eachtree，thoughfulloftheformsoflife，hasalltheappearanceofdeath。Eventotheoutwardeyetheyseemtobeladenwithague，fever，suddenchills，andpestilentialmalaria。

Whenwefirstvisitedthespotwewerealone，andwewalkedacrossfromtherailwaylinetotheplaceatwhichtheboatsweremoored。

Theylayintreblerankalongtheshore，andimmediatelyabovethemanoldsteamboatwasfastenedagainstthebank。Herbackwasbroken，andshewasgivenuptoruin——placedtherethatshemightrotquietlyintoherwaterygrave。Itwasmidwinter，andeverytreewascoveredwithfrozensleetandsmallparticlesofsnowwhichhaddrizzledthroughtheair；forthesnowhadnotfalleninhearty，honestflakes。Thegroundbeneathourfeetwascrispwithfrost，buttraitorousinitscrispness；notfrozenmanfullysoastobearaman\'sweight，butreadyateverypointtolethimthroughintothefat，glutinousmudbelow。Ineversawasadderpicture，oronewhichdidmoretoawakenpityforthosewhosefatehadfixedtheirabodesinsuchalocality。Andyettherewasabeautyaboutittoo——

amelancholy，death-likebeauty。Thedisorderedruinandconfuseddecayoftheforestwasallgemmedwithparticlesofice。Theeyereachingthroughthethinunderwoodcouldformforitselfpicturesqueshapesandsolitarybowersofbrokenwood，whichwerebrightwiththeopaquebrightnessofthehoar-frost。Thegreatriverrannoiselesslyalong，rapidbutstillwithanapparentlethargyinitswaters。Thegroundbeneathourfeetwasfertilebeyondcompare，butasyetfertiletodeathratherthantolife。

Wherewethentrodmanhadnotyetcomewithhisaxeandhisplow；

buttherailroadwasclosetous，andwithinamileofthespotthousandsofdollarshadbeenspentinraisingacitywhichwastohavebeenrichwiththeunitedwealthoftheriversandtheland。

Hithertofeverandague，mudandmalaria，hadbeentoostrongforman，andthedollarshadbeenspentinvain。Theday，however，willcomewhenthispromontorybetweenthetwogreatriverswillbeafitabodeforindustry。Menwillsettlethere，wanderingdownfromtheNorthandEast，andtoilsadly，andleavetheirbonesamongthemud。

Thin，pale-faced，joylessmotherswillcomethere，andgrowoldbeforetheirtime；andsicklychildrenwillbeborn，strugglingupwithwanfacestotheirsadlife\'slabor。Buttheworkwillgoon，foritisGod\'swork；andtheearthwillbepreparedforthepeopleandthefatrottennessofthestilllivingforestwillbemadetogiveforthitsriches。

WefoundthattwodaysatCairowerequiteenoughforus。Wehadseenthegun-boatsandthemortar-boats，andgonethroughtheshedsofthesoldiers。Thelatterwerebad，comfortless，damp，andcold；

andcertainquartersoftheofficers，intowhichwewerehospitablytaken，werewretchedabodesenough；buttheshedsofCairodidnotstinklikethoseofBentonBarracksatSt。Louis，norhadillnessbeenprevalenttheretothesamedegree。Idonotknowwhythisshouldhavebeenso，butsuchwastheresultofmyobservation。ThelocalityofBentonBarracksmust，fromitsnature，havebeenthemorehealthy，butithadbecomebyartthefoulestplaceIevervisited。Throughoutthearmyitseemedtobethefact，thatthemenundercanvasweremorecomfortable，inbetterspirits，andalsoinbetterhealth，thanthosewhowerelodgedinsheds。WehadinspectedtheCairoarmyandtheCaironavy，andhadalsoseenallthatCairohadtoshowusofitsown。Wewerethoroughlydisgustedwiththehotel，andretiredonthesecondnighttobed，givingpositiveordersthatwemightbecalledathalf-pasttwo，withreferencetothatterriblestarttobemadeathalf-pastthree。Asamatterofcoursewekeptdozingandwakingtillpastone，inourfearlestneglectonthepartofthewatchershouldentailonusanotherdayatthisplace；ofcoursewewentfastasleepaboutthetimeatwhichweshouldhaverousedourselves；andofcoursewewerecalledjustfifteenminutesbeforethetrainstarted。Everybodyknowshowthesethingsalwaysgo。Andthenthepairofusjumpingoutofbedinthatwretchedchamber，wentthroughthemockeryofwashingandpackingwhichalwaystakesplaceonsuchoccasions；amockeryindeedofwashing，fortherewasbutonebasinbetweenus！

Andamockeryalsoofpacking，forIleftmyhair-brushesbehindme！

CairowasavengedinthatIhaddeclinedtoavailmyselfoftheprivilegesoffreecitizenshipwhichhadbeenofferedtomeinthatbarber\'sshop。Andthen，whilewewereinouragony，pullingatthestrapsofourportmanteausandswearingatthefaithlessnessoftheboots，upcametheclerkofthehotel——thegreatmanfrombehindthebar——andscoldedusprodigiouslyforourdelay。“Called！Wehadbeencalledanhourago！“Whichstatement，however，wasdecidedlyuntrue，asweremarked，notwithextremepatience。“Weshouldcertainlybelate，“hesaid；“itwouldtakeusfiveminutestoreachthetrain，andthecarswouldbeoffinfour。“Nobodywhohasnotexperiencedthemcanunderstandtheagoniesofsuchmoments——ofsuchmomentsasregardstravelingingeneral；butnonewhohavenotbeenatCairocanunderstandtheextremeagonyproducedbythethreatofaprolongedsojourninthatcity。Atlastwewereoutofthehouse，rushingthroughthemud，slush，andhalf-meltedsnow，alongthewoodentracktotherailway，ladenwithbagsandcoats，anddeafenedbythatmelancholy，wailingsound，asthoughofahugepolarshe-

bearinthepangsoftravailuponaniceberg，whichproceedsfromanAmericanrailway-enginebeforeitcommencesitswork。Howweslippedandstumbled，andsplashedandswore，rushingalonginthedarknight，withbuttonsloose，andourclotheshalfon！Andhowpitilesslyweweretreated！Wegainedourcars，andevensucceededinbringingwithusourluggage；butwedidnotdosowiththesympathy，butamidthederisionoftheby-standers。Andthentheseatswereallfull，andwefoundthattherewasalowerdepthevenintheterribledeepofarailwaytraininaWesternState。Therewasasecond-classcarriage，prepared，Ipresume，forthosewhoesteemedthemselvestoodirtyforassociationwiththearistocracyofCairo；andintothisweflungourselves。Eventhiswasajoytous，forwewerebeingcarriedawayfromEden。WehadacknowledgedourselvestobenofittingcolleaguesforMarkTapley，andwouldhavebeengladtoescapefromCairoevenhadweworkedourwayoutoftheplaceasassistantstokerstotheengine-driver。PoorCairo！

unfortunateCairo！“Itisaboutplayedout！“saiditscitizentome。Butintruththeplaywascommencedalittletoosoon。Thoseplayershaveplayedout；butanothersetwillyethavetheirinnings，andmakeascorethatshallperhapsbetalkedoffarandwideintheWesternWorld。

Wewerestillbentuponarmyinspection，andwiththispurposewentbackfromCairotoLouisville，inKentucky。IhadpassedthroughLouisvillebefore，astoldinmylastchapter，buthadnotgonesouthfromLouisvilletowardtheGreenRiver，andhadseennothingofGeneralBuell\'ssoldiers。IshouldhavementionedbeforethatwhenwewereatSt。Louis，weaskedGeneralHalleck，theofficerincommandoftheNorthernarmyofMissouri，whetherhecouldallowustopassthroughhislinestotheSouth。Thisheassuredushewasforbiddentodo，atthesametimeofferinguseveryfacilityinhispowerforsuchanexpeditionifwecouldobtaintheconsentofMr。

Seward，whoatthattimehadapparentlysucceededinengrossingintohisownhands，forthemoment，supremeauthorityinallmattersofgovernment。BeforeleavingWashingtonwehaddeterminednottoaskMr。Seward，havingbutlittlehopeofobtaininghispermission，andbeingunwillingtoencounterhisrefusal。BeforegoingtoGeneralHalleck，wehadconsideredthequestionofvisitingthelandof“Dixie“withoutpermissionfromanyofthemeninauthority。I

ascertainedthatthismighteasilyhavebeendonefromKentuckytoTennessee，butthatitcouldonlybedoneonfoot。ThereareveryfewavailableroadsrunningNorthandSouththroughtheseStates。

Therailwayscamebeforeroads；andevenwheretherailwaysarefarasunder，almostallthetrafficofthecountrytakesitselftothem，preferringalongcircuitousconveyancewithsteam，toshortdistanceswithout。Consequentlysuchroadsastherearerunlaterallytotherailways，meetingthematthispointorthat，andthusmaintainingthecommunicationofthecountry。Nowtherailwayswereofcourseinthehandsofthearmies。ThefewdirectroadsleadingfromNorthtoSouthwereinthesamecondition，andtheby-

roadswereimpassablefrommud。ThefrontieroftheNorth，therefore，thoughveryextended，wasnotveryeasilytobepassed，unless，asIhavesaidbefore，bymenonfoot。FormyselfIconfessthatIwasanxioustogoSouth；butnottodosowithoutmycoatsandtrowsers，orshirtsandpocket-handkerchiefs。Thereadiestwayofgettingacrosstheline——andthewaywhichwas，Ibelieve，themostfrequentlyused——wasfrombelowBaltimore，inMaryland，byboatacrossthePotomac。Butinthistherewasaconsiderabledangerofbeingtaken，andIhadnodesiretobecomeastate-prisonerinthehandsofMr。SewardundercircumstanceswhichwouldhavejustifiedourMinisterinaskingformyreleaseonlyasamatteroffavor。

Therefore，whenatSt。Louis，Igaveupallhopesofseeing“Dixie“

duringmypresentstayinAmerica。IpresumeittobegenerallyknownthatDixieisthenegro\'sheaven，andthattheSouthernslaveStates，inwhichitispresumedthattheyhavefoundaParadise，havesincethebeginningofthewarbeensonamed。

WeremainedafewdaysatLouisville，andweregreatlystruckwiththenaturalbeautyofthecountryaroundit。Indeed，asfarasI

wasenabledtosee，Kentuckyhassuperiorattractions，asaplaceofruralresidenceforanEnglishgentleman，toanyotherStateintheUnion。ThereisnothingoflandscapethereequaltothebanksoftheUpperMississippi，ortosomepartsoftheHudsonRiver。IthasnoneofthewildgrandeuroftheWhiteMountainsofNewHampshire，nordoesitbreakitselfintovalleysequaltothoseoftheAlleghanies，inPennsylvania。Butallthosearebeautiesforthetouristratherthanfortheresident。InKentuckythelandlaysinknollsandsoftslopinghills。Thetreesstandapart，formingforestopenings。Theherbageisrich，andthesoil，thoughnotfertileliketheprairiesofIllinois，ortheriverbottomsoftheMississippianditstributaries，isgood，steadfast，wholesomefarmingground。Itisafinecountryforaresidentgentlemanfarmer，andinitsoutwardaspectremindsmemoreofEnglandinitsruralaspectsthananyotherStatewhichIvisited。RoundLouisvilletherearebeautifulsitesforhouses，ofwhichadvantageinsomeinstanceshasbeentaken。But，nevertheless，Louisville，thoughawell-built，handsomecity，isnotnowathrivingcity。I

likeditbecausethehotelwasabovepar，andbecausethecountryrounditwasgoodforwalking；butithasnotadvancedasCincinnatiandSt。Louishaveadvanced。AndyetitspositionontheOhioisfavorable，anditiswellcircumstancedasregardsthewantsofitsownState。Butitisnotafree-soilcity。Nor，indeed，isSt。

Louis；butSt。Louisistendingthatway，andhasbutlittletodowiththe“domesticinstitution。“AtthehotelsinCincinnatiandSt。Louisyouareservedbywhitemen，andareverybadlyserved。