第1章

INTRODUCTION。

IthasbeentheambitionofmyliterarylifetowriteabookabouttheUnitedStates，andIhadmadeupmymindtovisitthecountrywiththisobjectbeforetheintestinetroublesoftheUnitedStatesgovernmenthadcommenced。IhavenotallowedthedivisionamongtheStatesandthebreakingoutofcivilwartointerferewithmyintention；butIshouldnotpurposelyhavechosenthisperiodeitherformybookorformyvisit。Isaysomuch，inorderthatitmaynotbesupposedthatitismyspecialpurposetowriteanaccountofthestruggleasfarasithasyetbeencarried。Mywishistodescribe，aswellasIcan，thepresentsocialandpoliticalstateofthecountry。ThisIshouldhaveattempted，withmorepersonalsatisfactioninthework，hadtherebeennodisruptionbetweentheNorthandSouth；butIhavenotallowedthatdisruptiontodetermefromanobjectwhich，ifitweredelayed，mightprobablyneverbecarriedout。Iamthereforeforcedtotakethesubjectinitspresentcondition，andbeingsoforcedImustwriteofthewar，ofthecauseswhichhaveledtoit，andofitsprobabletermination。ButIwishittobeunderstoodthatitwasnotmyselectedtasktodoso，andisnotnowmyprimaryobject。

ThirtyyearsagomymotherwroteabookabouttheAmericans，towhichIbelieveImayalludeasawell-knownandsuccessfulworkwithoutbeingguiltyofanyunduefamilyconceit。Thatwasessentiallyawoman\'sbook。Shesawwithawoman\'skeeneye，anddescribedwithawoman\'slightbutgraphicpen，thesocialdefectsandabsurditieswhichournearrelativeshadadoptedintotheirdomesticlife。Allthatshetoldwasworththetelling，andthetelling，ifdonesuccessfully，wassuretoproduceagoodresult。

Iamsatisfiedthatitdidso。Butshedidnotregarditasapartofherworktodilateonthenatureandoperationofthosepoliticalarrangementswhichhadproducedthesocialabsurditieswhichshesaw，ortoexplainthatthoughsuchabsurditieswerethenaturalresultofthosearrangementsintheirnewness，thedefectswouldcertainlypassaway，whilethepoliticalarrangements，ifgood，wouldremain。Suchaworkisfitterforamanthanforawoman，IamveryfarfromthinkingthatitisataskwhichIcanperformwithsatisfactioneithertomyselfortoothers。Itisaworkwhichsomemanwilldowhohasearnedarightbyeducation，study，andsuccesstorankhimselfamongthepoliticalsagesofhisage。ButImayperhapsbeabletoaddsomethingtothefamiliarityofEnglishmenwithAmericans。ThewritingswhichhavebeenmostpopularinEnglandonthesubjectoftheUnitedStateshavehithertodealtchieflywithsocialdetails；andthoughinmostcasestrueanduseful，havecreatedlaughterononesideoftheAtlantic，andsorenessontheother。ifIcoulddoanythingtomitigatethesoreness，ifIcouldinanysmalldegreeaddtothegoodfeelingwhichshouldexistbetweentwonationswhichoughttoloveeachothersowell，andwhichdohanguponeachothersoconstantly，IshouldthinkthatIhadcausetobeproudofmywork。

Butitisveryhardtowriteaboutanycountryabookthatdoesnotrepresentthecountrydescribedinamoreorlessridiculouspointofview。ItishardatleasttodosoinsuchabookasImustwrite。AdeTocquevillemaydoit。Itmaybedonebyanyphilosophico-politicalorpolitico-statistical，orstatistico-

scientificwriter；butitcanhardlybedonebyamanwhoprofessestousealightpen，andtomanufacturehisarticlefortheuseofgeneralreaders。Suchawritermaytellallthatheseesofthebeautiful；buthemustalsotell，ifnotallthatheseesoftheludicrous，atanyratethemostpiquantpartofit。Howtodothiswithoutbeingoffensiveistheproblemwhichamanwithsuchataskbeforehimhastosolve。Hisfirstdutyisowedtohisreaders，andconsistsmainlyinthis:thatheshalltellthetruth，andshallsotellthattruththatwhathehaswrittenmaybereadable。

Butaseconddutyisduetothoseofwhomhewrites；andhedoesnotperformthatdutywellifhegivesoffensetothoseastowhom，onthesummingupofthewholeevidenceforandagainsttheminhisownmind，heintendstogiveafavorableverdict。Thereareofcoursethoseagainstwhomawriterdoesnotintendtogiveafavorableverdict；peopleandplaceswhomhedesirestodescribe，ontheperilofhisownjudgment，asbad，illeducated，ugly，andodious。Insuchcaseshiscourseisstraightforwardenough。Hisjudgmentmaybeingreatperil，buthisvolumeorchapterwillbeeasilywritten。Ridiculeandcensurerungliblyfromthepen，andformthemselvesintosharpparagraphswhicharepleasanttothereader。Whereaseulogyiscommonlydull，andtoofrequentlysoundsasthoughitwerefalse。Thereismuchdifficultyinexpressingaverdictwhichisintendedtobefavorable；butwhich，thoughfavorable，shallnotbefalselyeulogistic；andthoughtrue，notoffensive。

Whohasevertraveledinforeigncountrieswithoutmeetingexcellentstoriesagainstthecitizensofsuchcountries？Andhowfewcantravelwithouthearingsuchstoriesagainstthemselves！ItisimpossibleformetoavoidtellingofaveryexcellentgentlemanwhomImetbeforeIhadbeenintheUnitedStatesaweek，andwhoaskedmewhetherlordsinEnglandeverspoketomenwhowerenotlords。NorcanIomittheopeningaddressofanothergentlemantomywife。“Youlikeourinstitutions，ma\'am？““Yes，indeed，“saidmywife，notwithallthateagernessofassentwhichtheoccasionperhapsrequired。“Ah，“saidhe，“Ineveryetmetthedown-troddensubjectofadespotwhodidnothughischains。“Thefirstgentlemanwascertainlysomewhatignorantofourcustoms，andthesecondwasratherabruptinhiscondemnationofthepoliticalprinciplesofapersonwhomheonlyfirstsawatthatmoment。Itcomestomeinthewayofmytradetorepeatsuchincidents；butI

cantellstorieswhicharequiteasgoodagainstEnglishmen。As，forinstance，whenIwastappedonthebackinoneofthegalleriesofFlorencebyacountrymanofmine，andaskedtoshowhimwherestoodthemedicalVenus。NorisanythingthatonecansayoftheinconveniencesattendantupontravelintheUnitedStatestobebeatenbywhatforeignersmighttrulysayofus。IshallneverforgetthelookofaFrenchmanwhomIfoundonawetafternooninthebestinnofaprovincialtowninthewestofEngland。Hewasseatedonahorsehair-coveredchairinthemiddleofasmall，dingy，ill-furnishedprivatesitting-room。NoeloquenceofminecouldmakeintelligibletoaFrenchmanoranAmericantheutterdesolationofsuchanapartment。TheworldasthenseenbythatFrenchmanofferedhimsolaceofnodescription。Theairwithoutwasheavy，dull，andthick。Thestreetbeyondthewindowwasdarkandnarrow。Theroomcontainedmahoganychairscoveredwithhorse-

hair，amahoganytable，ricketyinitslegs，andamahoganysideboardornamentedwithinvertedglassesandoldcruet-stands。

TheFrenchmanhadcometothehouseforshelterandfood，andhadbeenaskedwhetherhewascommercial。Whereuponheshookhishead。

“Didhewantasitting-room？“Yes，hedid。“Hewasaleetletiredandvantedtoseet。“Whereuponhewaspresumedtohaveorderedaprivateroom，andwasshownuptotheEdenIhavedescribed。I

foundhimthereatdeath\'sdoor。NothingthatIcansaywithreferencetothesocialhabitsoftheAmericanscantellmoreagainstthemthanthestoryofthatFrenchman\'sfatetellsagainstthoseofourcountry。

FromwhichremarksIwouldwishtobeunderstoodasdeprecatingoffensefrommyAmericanfriends，ifinthecourseofmybookshouldbefoundaughtwhichmayseemtoargueagainsttheexcellenceoftheirinstitutionsandthegraceoftheirsociallife。OfthisatanyrateIcanassurethem，insoberearnestness，thatIadmirewhattheyhavedoneintheworldandfortheworldwithatrueandheartyadmiration；andthatwhetherornoalltheirinstitutionsbeatpresentexcellent，andtheirsociallifeallgraceful，mywishesarethattheyshouldbeso，andmyconvictionsarethatthatimprovementwillcomeforwhichtheremayperhapsevenyetbesomelittleroom。

AndnowtouchingthiswarwhichhadbrokenoutbetweentheNorthandSouthbeforeIleftEngland。Iwouldwishtoexplainwhatmyfeelingswere；orratherwhatIbelievethegeneralfeelingsofEnglandtohavebeenbeforeIfoundmyselfamongthepeoplebywhomitwasbeingwaged。Itisverydifficultforthepeopleofanyonenationtorealizethepoliticalrelationsofanother，andtochewthecudanddigestthebearingsofthoseexternalpolitics。Butitisunjustintheonetodecideuponthepoliticalaspirationsanddoingsofthatotherwithoutsuchunderstanding。ConstantlyasthenameofFranceisinourmouths，comparativelyfewEnglishmenunderstandthewayinwhichFranceisgoverned；thatis，howfarabsolutedespotismprevails，andhowfarthepoweroftheoneruleristempered，or，asitmaybe，hamperedbythevoicesandinfluenceofothers。AndasregardsEngland，howseldomisitthatincommonsocietyaforeignerismetwhocomprehendsthenatureofherpoliticalarrangements！ToaFrenchman——Idonotofcourseincludegreatmenwhohavemadethesubjectastudy，——buttotheordinaryintelligentFrenchmanthethingisaltogetherincomprehensible。

Language，itmaybesaid，hasmuchtodowiththat。ButanAmericanspeaksEnglish；andhowoftenisanAmericanmetwhohascombinedinhismindtheideaofamonarch，socalled，withthatofarepublic，properlysonamed——acombinationofideaswhichItaketobenecessarytotheunderstandingofEnglishpolitics！Thegentlemanwhoscornedmywifeforhuggingherchainshadcertainlynotdoneso，andyetheconceivedthathehadstudiedthesubject。

Thematterisonemostdifficultofcomprehension。HowmanyEnglishmenhavefailedtounderstandaccuratelytheirownconstitution，orthetruebearingoftheirownpolitics！Butwhenthisknowledgehasbeenattained，ithasgenerallybeenfilteredintothemindslowly，andhascomefromtheunconsciousstudyofmanyyears。AnEnglishmanhandlesanewspaperforaquarterofanhourdaily，anddailyexchangessomefewwordsinpoliticswiththosearoundhim，tilldropbydropthepleasantspringsofhislibertycreepintohismindandwaterhisheart；andthus，earlierorlaterinlife，accordingtothenatureofhisintelligence，heunderstandswhyitisthatheisatallpointsafreeman。Butifthisbesoofourownpolitics；ifitbesorareathingtofindaforeignerwhounderstandstheminalltheirniceties，whyisitthatwearesoconfidentinourremarksonallthenicetiesofthoseofothernations？

IhopethatImaynotbemisunderstoodassayingthatweshouldnotdiscussforeignpoliticsinourpress，ourparliament，ourpublicmeetings，orourprivatehouses。Nomancouldbemadenoughtopreachsuchadoctrine。Asregardsourparliament，thatisprobablythebestBritishschoolofforeignpolitics，seeingthatthesubjectisnotthereoftentakenupbymenwhoareabsolutelyignorant，andthatmistakeswhenmadearesubjecttoacorrectionwhichisbothroughandready。Thepress，thoughveryliabletoerror，laborshardatitsvocationinteachingforeignpolitics，andsparesnoexpenseinlettingindaylight。Ifthelightletinbesometimesmoonshine，excusemayeasilybemade。Wheresomuchisattempted，theremustnecessarilybesomefailure。Buteventhemoonshinedoesgoodifitbenotoffensivemoonshine。WhatIwoulddeprecateis，thataptnessatreproachwhichweassume；thereadinesswithscorn，thequietwordsofinsult，theinstantjudgmentandcondemnationwithwhichwearesoinclinedtovisit，notthegreatoutwardacts，butthesmallerinwardpoliticsofourneighbors。

Anddoothersspareus？willbetheinstantreplyofallwhomayreadthis。InmycounterreplyImakeboldtoplacemyselfandmycountryonveryhighground，andtosaythatwe，theolderandthereforemoreexperiencedpeopleasregardstheUnitedStates，andthebettergovernedasregardsFrance，andthestrongerasregardsalltheworldbeyond，shouldnotthrowmudagaineventhoughmudbethrownatus。Iyieldthepathtoasmallchimney-sweeperasreadilyastoalady；andforbearfromaninterchangeofcourtesieswithaBillingsgateheroine，eventhoughatheartImayhaveaproudconsciousnessthatIshouldnotaltogethergotothewallinsuchanencounter。

IleftEnglandinAugustlast——August，1861。Atthattime，andforsomemonthsprevious，IthinkthatthegeneralEnglishfeelingontheAmericanquestionwasasfollows:“Thiswide-spreadnationalityoftheUnitedStates，withitsenormousterritorialpossessionsandincreasingpopulation，hasfallenasunder，torntopiecesbytheweightofitsowndiscordantparts——asacongregationwhenitssizehasbecomeunwieldywillseparate，andreformitselfintotwowholesomewholes。Itiswellthatthisshouldbeso，forthepeoplearenothomogeneous，asapeopleshouldbewhoarecalledtolivetogetherasonenation。Theyhaveattemptedtocombinefree-

soilsentimentswiththepracticeofslavery，andtomakethesetwoantagonistslivetogetherinpeaceandunityunderthesameroof；

but，aswehavelongexpected，theyhavefailed。Nowhascometheperiodforseparation；andifthepeoplewouldonlyseethis，andactinaccordancewiththecircumstanceswhichProvidenceandtheinevitablehandoftheworld\'sRulerhaspreparedforthem，allwouldbewell。Buttheywillnotdothis。Theywillgotowarwitheachother。TheSouthwillmakeherdemandsforsecessionwithanarroganceandinstantpressurewhichexasperatestheNorth；

andtheNorth，forgettingthatanequabletemperinsuchmattersisthemostpowerfulofallweapons，willnotrecognizethestrengthofitsownposition。Itallowsitselftobeexasperated，andgoestowarforthatwhichifregainedwouldonlybeinjurioustoit。

Thusmillionsonmillionssterlingwillbespent。Aheavydebtwillbeincurred；andtheNorth，whichdividedfromtheSouthmighttakeitsplaceamongthegreatestofnations，willthrowitselfbackforhalfacentury，andperhapsinjurethesplendorofitsultimateprospects。Ifonlytheywouldbewise，throwdowntheirarms，andagreetopart！Buttheywillnot。“

ThiswasIthinkthegeneralopinionwhenIleftEngland。Itwouldnot，however，benecessarytogobackmanymonthstoreachthetimewhenEnglishmenweresayinghowimpossibleitwasthatsogreatanationalpowershouldignoreitsowngreatnessanddestroyitsownpowerbyaninternecineseparation。ButinAugustlastallthathadgoneby，andweinEnglandhadrealizedtheprobabilityofactualsecession。

Tothesefeelingsonthesubjectmaybeaddedanother，whichwasnaturalenoughthoughperhapsnotnoble。“Thesewesterncockshavecrowedloudly，“wesaid；“tooloudlyforthecomfortofthosewholiveafterallatnosuchgreatdistancefromthem。Itiswellthattheircombsshouldbeclipped。Cockswhocrowsoveryloudlyareanuisance。Itmighthavegonesofarthattheclippingwouldbecomeaworknecessarilytobedonefromwithout。Butitistentimesbetterforallpartiesthatitshouldbedonefromwithin；

andasthecocksarenowclippingtheirowncombs，inGod\'snameletthemdoit，andthewholeworldwillbethequieter。“That，I

say，wasnotaverynobleidea；butitwasnaturalenough，andcertainlyhasdonesomewhatinmitigatingthatgriefwhichthehorrorsofcivilwarandthewantofcottonhavecausedtousinEngland。

Suchcertainlyhadbeenmybeliefastothecountry。Ispeakhereofmyopinionastotheultimatesuccessofsecessionandthefollyofthewar，repudiatinganyconcurrenceofmyownintheignoblebutnaturalsentimentalludedtointhelastparagraph。I

certainlydidthinkthattheNorthernStates，ifwise，wouldhavelettheSouthernStatesgo。IhadblamedBuchananasatraitorforallowingthegermofsecessiontomakeanygrowth；andasIthoughthimatraitorthen，sodoIthinkhimatraitornow。ButIhadalsoblamedLincoln，orratherthegovernmentofwhichMr。Lincolninthismatterisnomorethantheexponent，forhiseffortstoavoidthatwhichisinevitable。InthisIthinkthatI——orasI

believeImaysaywe，weEnglishmen——werewrong。IdonotseehowtheNorth，treatedasitwasandhadbeen，couldhavesubmittedtosecessionwithoutresistance。WeallrememberwhatShakspearesaysofthegreatarmieswhichwereledouttofightforapieceofgroundnotlargeenoughtocoverthebodiesofthosewhowouldbeslaininthebattle；butIdonotrememberthatShakspearesaysthatthebattlewasonthisaccountnecessarilyunreasonable。Itistheoldpointofhonorwhich，tillithadbeenmadeabsurdbycertainchangesofcircumstances，wasalwaysgrandandusuallybeneficent。Thesechangesofcircumstanceshavealteredthemannerinwhichappealmaybemade，buthavenotalteredthepointofhonor。HadtheSouthernStatessoughttoobtainsecessionbyconstitutionalmeans，theymightormightnothavebeensuccessful；

butifsuccessful，therewouldhavebeennowar。IdonotmeantobrandalltheSouthernStateswithtreason，nordoIintendtosaythat，havingsecessionatheart，theycouldhaveobtaineditbyconstitutionalmeans。ButIdointendtosaythat，actingastheydid，demandingsecessionnotconstitutionally，butinoppositiontotheconstitution，takinguponthemselvestherightofbreakingupanationalityofwhichtheyformedonlyapart，anddoingthatwithoutconsentoftheotherpart，oppositionfromtheNorthandwarwasaninevitableconsequence。

Itis，Ithink，onlynecessarytolookbacktotheRevolutionbywhichtheUnitedStatesseparatedthemselvesfromEnglandtoseethis。Thereishardlytobemet，hereandthere，anEnglishmanwhonowregretsthelossoftherevoltedAmericancolonies；whonowthinksthatcivilizationwasretardedandtheworldinjuredbythatrevolt；whonowconceivesthatEnglandshouldhaveexpendedmoretreasureandmorelivesinthehopeofretainingthosecolonies。

Itisagreedthattherevoltwasagoodthing；thatthosewhowerethenrebelsbecamepatriotsbysuccess，andthattheydeservedwellofallcomingagesofmankind。ButnotthelessabsolutelynecessarywasitthatEnglandshouldendeavortoholdherown。Shewasasthemotherbirdwhentheyoungbirdwillflyalone。ShesufferedthosepangswhichNaturecallsuponmotherstoendure。

AswasthenecessityofBritishoppositiontoAmericanindependence，sowasthenecessityofNorthernoppositiontoSouthernsecession。Idonotsaythatinotherrespectsthetwocaseswereparallel。TheStatesseparatedfromusbecausetheywouldnotenduretaxationwithoutrepresentation——inotherwords，becausetheywereoldenoughandbigenoughtogoalone。TheSouthissecedingfromtheNorthbecausethetwoarenothomogeneous。

Theyhavedifferentinstincts，differentappetites，differentmorals，andadifferentculture。Itiswellforonemantosaythatslaveryhascausedtheseparation，andforanothertosaythatslaveryhasnotcausedit。Eachinsosayingspeaksthetruth。

Slaveryhascausedit，seeingthatslaveryisthegreatpointonwhichthetwohaveagreedtodiffer。Butslaveryhasnotcausedit，seeingthatotherpointsofdifferencearetobefoundineverycircumstanceandfeatureofthetwopeople。TheNorthandtheSouthmusteverbedissimilar。IntheNorthlaborwillalwaysbehonorable，andbecausehonorable，successful。IntheSouthlaborhaseverbeenservile——atleastinsomesense——andthereforedishonorable；andbecausedishonorable，hasnot，toitself，beensuccessful。IntheSouth，Isay，laboreverhasbeendishonorable；

andIamdriventoconfessthatIhavenothithertoseenasignofanychangeintheCreator\'sfiatonthismatter。Thatlaborwillbehonorablealltheworldoverasyearsadvanceandthemillenniumdrawsnigh，Iforoneneverdoubt。

SomuchforEnglishopinionaboutAmericainAugustlast。AndnowIwillventuretosayawordortwoastoAmericanfeelingrespectingthisEnglishopinionatthatperiod。Itwillofcourseberememberedbyallmyreadersthat，atthebeginningofthewar，LordRussell，whowastheninthelowerhouse，declared，asForeignSecretaryofState，thatEnglandwouldregardtheNorthandSouthasbelligerents，andwouldremainneutralastobothofthem。ThisdeclarationgaveviolentoffensetotheNorth，andhasbeentakenasindicatingBritishsympathywiththecauseoftheseceders。I

amnotgoingtoexplain——indeed，itwouldbenecessarythatI

shouldfirstunderstand——thelawsofnationswithregardtoblockadedports，privateering，shipsandmenandgoodscontrabandofwar，andallthosesemi-nautical，semi-militaryrulesandaxiomswhichitisnecessarythatallattorneys-generalandsuchlikeshould，atthepresentmoment，haveattheirfingers\'end。Butitmustbeevidenttothemostignorantinthosematters，amongwhichlargecrowdIcertainlyincludemyself，thatitwasessentiallynecessarythatLordJohnRussellshouldatthattimedeclareopenlywhatEnglandintendedtodo。Itwasessentialthatourseamenshouldknowwheretheywouldbeprotectedandwherenot，andthatthecoursetobetakenbyEnglandshouldbedefined。ReticenceinthematterwasnotwithinthepoweroftheBritishgovernment。ItbehoovedtheForeignSecretaryofStatetodeclareopenlythatEnglandintendedtosideeitherwithonepartyorwiththeother，orelsetoremainneutralbetweenthem。

IhadheardthismatterdiscussedbyAmericansbeforeIleftEngland，andIhaveofcoursehearditdiscussedveryfrequentlyinAmerica。TherecanbenodoubtthatthefrontoftheoffensegivenbyEnglandtotheNorthernStateswasthisdeclarationofLordJohnRussell\'s。ButithasbeenalwaysmadeevidenttomethatthesindidnotconsistinthefactofEngland\'sneutrality——inthefactofherregardingthetwopartiesasbelligerents——butintheopendeclarationmadetotheworldbyaSecretaryofStatethatshedidintendsotoregardthem。Ifanotherproofwerewanting，thiswouldaffordanotherproofoftheimmenseweightattachedinAmericatoalltheproceedingsandtoallthefeelingsofEnglandonthismatter。TheveryangeroftheNorthisacomplimentpaidbytheNorthtoEngland。Butnotthelessisthatangerunreasonable。TothoseinAmericawhounderstandourconstitution，itmustbeevidentthatourgovernmentcannottakeofficialmeasureswithoutapublicavowalofsuchmeasures。Francecandoso。Russiacandoso。ThegovernmentoftheUnitedStatescandoso，andcoulddosoevenbeforethisrupture。ButthegovernmentofEnglandcannotdoso。AllmenconnectedwiththegovernmentinEnglandhavefeltthemselvesfromtimetotimemoreorlesshamperedbythenecessityofpublicity。Ourstatesmenhavebeenforcedtofighttheirbattleswiththeplanoftheirtacticsopenbeforetheiradversaries。ButweinEnglandareinclinedtobelievethatthegeneralresultisgood，andthatbattlessofoughtandsowonwillbefoughtwiththehonestestblowsandwonwiththesurestresults。Reticenceinthismatterwasnotpossible；andLordJohnRussell，inmakingtheopenavowalwhichgavesuchoffensetotheNorthernStates，onlydidthatwhich，asaservantofEngland，Englandrequiredhimtodo。

“WhatwouldyouinEnglandhavethought，“agentlemanofmuchweightinBostonsaidtome，“if，whenyouwereintroubleinIndia，wehadopenlydeclaredthatweregardedyouropponentsthereareasbelligerentsonequaltermswithyourselves？“Iwasforcedtosaythat，asfarasIcouldsee，therewasnoanalogybetweenthetwocases。InIndiaanarmyhadmutinied，andthatanarmycomposedofasubdued，ifnotaservilerace。Theanalogywouldhavebeenfairerhaditreferredtoanysympathyshownbyustoinsurgentnegroes。But，nevertheless，hadthearmywhichmutiniedinIndiabeeninpossessionofportsandsea-board；hadtheyheldintheirhandsvastcommercialcitiesandgreatagriculturaldistricts；hadtheyownedshipsandbeenmastersofawide-spreadtrade，Americacouldhavedonenothingbettertowardusthanhaveremainedneutralinsuchaconflictandhaveregardedthepartiesasbelligerents。Theonlyquestioniswhethershewouldhavedonesowellbyus。“But，“saidmyfriend，inanswertoallthis，“weshouldnothaveproclaimedtotheworldthatweregardedyouandthemasstandingonanequalfooting。“Thereagainappearedthetruegistoftheoffense。AwordfromEnglandsuchasthatspokenbyLordJohnRussellwasofsuchweighttotheSouththattheNorthcouldnotenduretohaveitspoken。Ididnotsaytothatgentleman，buthereImaysaythat，hadsuchcircumstancesarisenasthoseconjectured，andhadAmericaspokensuchaword，Englandwouldnothavefeltherselfcalledupontoresentit。

ButthefaireranalogyliesbetweenIrelandandtheSouthernStates。ThemonstermeetingsandO\'Connell\'striumphsarenotsolonggonebybutthatmanyofuscanrememberthefirstdemandforsecessionmadebyIreland，andthelinewhichwasthentakenbyAmericansympathies。ItisnottoomuchtosaythatAmericathenbelievedthatIrelandwouldsecuresecession，andthatthegreattrustoftheIrishrepealerswasinthemoralaidwhichshedidandwouldreceivefromAmerica。“ButourgovernmentproclaimednosympathywithIreland，“saidmyfriend。No。TheAmericangovernmentisnotcalledontomakesuchproclamations，norhadIrelandevertakenuponherselfthenatureandlaborsofabelligerent。

ThatthisangeronthepartoftheNorthisunreasonable，Icannotdoubt。Thatitisunfortunate，grievous，andverybitter，Iamquitesure。ButIdonotthinkthatitisinanydegreesurprising。Iaminclinedtothinkthat，didIbelongtoBostonasIdobelongtoLondon，Ishouldshareinthefeeling，andraveasloudlyasallmentherehaveravedagainstthecoldnessofEngland。

WhenmenhaveonhandsuchajobofworkastheNorthhasnowundertaken，theyarealwaysguidedbytheirfeelingsratherthantheirreason。Whattwomeneverhadaquarrelinwhicheachdidnotthinkthatalltheworld，ifjust，wouldespousehisownsideofthedispute？TheNorthfeelsthatithasbeenmorethanloyaltotheSouth，andthattheSouthhastakenadvantageofthatover-

loyaltytobetraytheNorth。“Wehaveworkedforthem，andfoughtforthem，andpaidforthem，“saystheNorth。“Byourlaborwehaveraisedtheirindolencetoaparwithourenergy。Whilewehaveworkedlikemen，wehaveallowedthemtotalkandbluster。Wehavewarmedtheminourbosom，andnowtheyturnagainstusandstingus。Theworldseesthatthisisso。England，aboveall，mustseeit，and，seeingit，shouldspeakouthertrueopinion。“

TheNorthishotwithsuchthoughtsasthese；andonecannotwonderthatsheshouldbeangrywithherfriendwhenherfriend，withanexpressionofcertaineasygoodwishes，bidsherfightoutherownbattles。TheNorthhasbeenunreasonablewithEngland；butI

believethateveryreaderofthispagewouldhavebeenasunreasonablehadthatreaderbeenborninMassachusetts。

Mr。andMrs。Jonesarethedearly-belovedfriendsofmyfamily。MywifeandIhavelivedwithMrs。Jonesontermsofintimacywhichhavebeenquiteendearing。Joneshashadtherunofmyhousewithperfectfreedom；andinMrs。Jones\'sdrawing-roomIhavealwayshadmyownarm-chair，andhavebeenregaledwithlargebreakfast-cupsoftea，quiteasthoughIwereathome。ButofasuddenJonesandhiswifehavefallenout，andthereisforawhileinJonesHallacat-and-doglifethatmayend——inonehardlydaretosurmisewhatcalamity。Mrs。JonesbegsthatIwillinterferewithherhusband，andJonesentreatsthegoodofficesofmywifeinmoderatingthehottemperofhisown。Butweknowbetterthanthat。Ifweinterfere，thechancesarethatmydearfriendswillmakeitupandturnuponus。IgrievebeyondmeasureinageneralwayatthetemporarybreakupoftheJones-Hallhappiness。Iexpressgeneralwishesthatitmaybetemporary。Butasforsayingwhichisrightorwhichiswrong——astoexpressingspecialsympathyoneithersideinsuchaquarrel——itisoutofthequestion。“MydearJones，youmustexcuseme。Anynewsinthecityto-day？Sugarshavefallen；

howareteas？“OfcourseJonesthinksthatI\'mabrute；butwhatcanIdo？

IhavebeensomewhatsurprisedtofindthetroublethathasbeentakenbyAmericanorators，statesmen，andlogicianstoprovethatthissecessiononthepartoftheSouthhasbeenrevolutionary——

thatistosay，thatithasbeenundertakenandcarriedonnotincompliancewiththeConstitutionoftheUnitedStates，butindefianceofit。ThishasbeendoneoverandoveragainbysomeofthegreatestmenoftheNorth，andhasbeendonemostsuccessfully。

Butwhatthen？Ofcoursethemovementhasbeenrevolutionaryandanti-constitutional。Nobody，nosingleSoutherner，canreallybelievethattheConstitutionoftheUnitedStatesasframedin1787，oralteredsince，intendedtogivetotheseparateStatesthepowerofsecedingastheypleased。Itissurelyuselessgoingthroughlongargumentstoprovethis，seeingthatitisabsolutelyprovedbytheabsenceofanyclausegivingsuchlicensetotheseparateStates。Suchlicensewouldhavebeendestructivetotheveryideaofagreatnationality。WherewouldNewEnglandhavebeen，asapartoftheUnitedStates，ifNewYork，whichstretchesfromtheAtlantictothebordersofCanada，hadbeenendowedwiththepowerofcuttingoffthesixNorthernStatesfromtherestoftheUnion？Noonewillforamomentdoubtthatthemovementwasrevolutionary，andyetinfinitepainsaretakentoproveafactthatispatenttoeveryone。

Itisrevolutionary；butwhatthen？HavetheNorthernStatesoftheAmericanUniontakenuponthemselves，in1861，toproclaimtheiropinionthatrevolutionisasin？Aretheygoingbacktothedivinerightofanysovereignty？Aretheygoingtotelltheworldthatanationorapeopleisboundtoremaininanypoliticalstatusbecausethatstatusistherecognizedformofgovernmentunderwhichsuchapeoplehavelived？IsthistobethedoctrineofUnitedStatescitizens——ofallpeople？Andisthisthedoctrinepreachednow，ofalltimes，whentheKingofNaplesandtheItaliandukeshavejustbeendismissedfromtheirthroneswithsuchenchantingnonchalancebecausetheirpeoplehavenotchosentokeepthem？Ofcoursethemovementisrevolutionary；andwhynot？Itisagreednowamongallmenandallnationsthatanypeoplemaychangeitsformofgovernmenttoanyother，ifitwillstodoso——andifitcandoso。

TherearetwootherpointsonwhichtheseNorthernstatesmenandlogiciansalsoinsist，andthesetwootherpointsareatanyratebetterworthanargumentthanthatwhichtouchesthequestionofrevolution。ItbeingsettledthatsecessiononthepartoftheSouthernersisrevolution，itisargued，firstly，thatnooccasionforrevolutionhadbeengivenbytheNorthtotheSouth；and，secondly，thattheSouthhasbeendishonestinitsrevolutionarytactics。Mencertainlyshouldnotraisearevolutionfornothing；

anditmaycertainlybedeclaredthatwhatevermendotheyshoulddohonestly。

Butinthatmatterofthecauseandgroundforrevolution，itissoveryeasyforeitherpartytoputinapleathatshallbesatisfactorytoitself！Mr。andMrs。Joneseachhadaseparatestory。Mr。Joneswassurethattherightlaywithhim；butMrs。

Joneswasnolesssure。NodoubttheNorthhaddonemuchfortheSouth；hadearnedmoneyforit；hadfedit；andhad，moreover，inagreatmeasurefosteredallitsbadhabits。IthadnotonlybeengeneroustotheSouth，butover-indulgent。ButalsoithadcontinuallyirritatedtheSouthbymeddlingwiththatwhichtheSouthernersbelievedtobeaquestionabsolutelyprivatetothemselves。ThematterwasillustratedtomebyaNewHampshiremanwhowasconversantwithblackbears。AtthehotelsintheNewHampshiremountainsitiscustomarytofindblackbearschainedtopoles。Thesebearsarecaughtamongthehills，andarethusimprisonedfortheamusementofthehotelguests。“ThemSoutherners，“saidmyfriend，“arejistasoneasthat\'erebear。

Wefeedshimandgiveshimahouse，andhisbellyisollersfull。

Butthen，jistbecasehe\'sablackbear，we\'reollersapokinghimwithsticks，anda\'coursethebeastisakinderriled。Hewantstobebacktothemountains。Hewouldn\'thavehisbellyfilled，buthe\'dhavehisownway。It\'sjistsowiththemSoutherners。“

Itisofnouseprovingtoanymanortoanynationthattheyhavegotalltheyshouldwant，iftheyhavenotgotallthattheydowant。Ifaservantdesirestogo，itisofnoavailtoshowhimthathehasallhecandesireinhispresentplace。TheNorthernerssaythattheyhavegivennooffensetotheSoutherners，andthatthereforetheSouthiswrongtoraisearevolution。TheveryfactthattheNorthistheNorth，isanoffencetotheSouth。

AslongasMr。andMrs。Joneswereoneinheartandoneinfeeling，havingthesamehopesandthesamejoys，itwaswellthattheyshouldremaintogether。Butwhenitisprovedthattheycannotsolivewithouttearingouteachother\'seyes，SirCresswellCresswell，therevolutionaryinstitutionofdomesticlife，interferesandseparatesthem。Thisistheageofsuchseparations。IdonotwonderthattheNorthshoulduseitslogictoshowthatithasreceivedcauseofoffensebutgivennone；butI

dothinkthatsuchlogicisthrownaway。Thematterisnotoneforargument。TheSouthhasthoughtthatitcandobetterwithouttheNorththanwithit；andifithasthepowertoseparateitself，itmustbeconcededthatithastheright。

Andthenastothatquestionofhonesty。Whatevermendotheycertainlyshoulddohonestly。Speakingbroadly，onemaysaythattheruleappliestonationsasstronglyastoindividuals，andshouldbeobservedinpoliticsasaccuratelyasinothermatters。

Wemust，however，confessthatmenwhoarescrupulousintheirprivatedealingsdotooconstantlydropthosescrupleswhentheyhandlepublicaffairs，andespeciallywhentheyhandlethematstirringmomentsofgreatnationalchanges。ThenameofNapoleonIII。standsfairnowbeforeEurope，andyethefilchedtheFrenchempirewithafalsehood。TheunionofEnglandandIrelandisasuccessfulfact，butneverthelessitcanhardlybesaidthatitwashonestlyachieved。IheartilybelievethatthewholeofTexasisimprovedineverysensebyhavingbeentakenfromMexicoandaddedtotheSouthernStates，butImuchdoubtwhetherthatannexationwasaccomplishedwithabsolutehonesty。WeallreverencethenameofCavour，butCavourdidnotconsenttoabandonNicetoFrancewithcleanhands。Whenmenhavepoliticalendstogaintheyregardtheiropponentsasadversaries，andthenthatoldruleofwarisbroughttobear，deceitorvalor——eithermaybeusedagainstafoe。

Woulditwerenotso！Therascallyrule——rascallyinreferencetoallpoliticalcontests——isbecominglessuniversalthanitwas。

Butitstillexistswithsufficientforcetobeurgedasanexcuse；

andwhileitdoesexistitseemsalmostneedlesstoshowthatacertainamountoffraudhasbeenusedbyacertainpartyinarevolution。IftheSouthbeultimatelysuccessful，thefraudofwhichitmayhavebeenguiltywillbecondonedbytheworld。

TheSouthernorDemocraticpartyoftheUnitedStateshad，asallmenknow，beeninpowerformanyyears。EitherSouthernPresidentshadbeenelected，orNorthernPresidentswithSouthernpolitics。

TheSouthformanyyearshadhadthedispositionofmilitarymatters，andthepowerofdistributingmilitaryappliancesofalldescriptions。ItisnowallegedbytheNorththataconspiracyhadlongbeenhatchingintheSouthwiththeviewofgivingtotheSouthernStatesthepowerofsecessionwhenevertheymightthinkfittosecede；anditisfurtherallegedthatPresidentafterPresident，foryearsback，hasundulysentthemilitarytreasureofthenationawayfromtheNorthdowntotheSouth，inorderthattheSouthmightbepreparedwhenthedayshouldcome。ThataPresidentwithSoutherninstinctsshouldundulyfavortheSouth，thatheshouldstrengthentheSouth，andfeelthatarmsandammunitionwerestoredtherewithbettereffectthantheycouldbestoredintheNorth，isveryprobable。Weallunderstandwhatisthebiasofaman\'smind，andhowstrongthatbiasmaybecomewhenthemanisnotespeciallyscrupulous。ButIdonotbelievethatanyPresidentprevioustoBuchanansentmilitarymaterialstotheSouthwiththeself-acknowledgedpurposeofusingthemagainsttheUnion。ThatBuchanandidso，orknowinglyallowedthistobedone，Idobelieve，andIthinkthatBuchananwasatraitortothecountrywhoseservanthewasandwhosepayhereceived。

Andnow，havingsaidsomuchinthewayofintroduction，Iwillbeginmyjourney。

CHAPTERII。

NEWPORT——RHODEISLAND。

We——theweconsistingofmywifeandmyself——leftLiverpoolforBostononthe24thAugust，1861，intheArabia，oneofCunard\'sNorthAmericanmailpackets。Wehaddeterminedthatmywifeshouldreturnaloneatthebeginningofwinter，whenIintendedtogotoapartofthecountryinwhich，undertheexistingcircumstancesofthewar，aladymightnotfeelherselfaltogethercomfortable。I

proposedstayinginAmericaoverthewinter，andreturninginthespring；andthisprogrammeIhavecarriedoutwithsufficientexactness。

TheArabiatouchedatHalifax；andasthetouchextendedfrom11A。M。

to6P。M。wehadanopportunityofseeingagooddealofthatcolony；notquitesufficienttojustifymeatthiscriticalageinwritingachapteroftravelsinNovaScotia，butenoughperhapstowarrantaparagraph。Itchancedthatacousinofminewasthenincommandofthetroopsthere，sothatwesawthefortwithallthehonors。Adinneronshorewas，Ithink，agreatertreattouseventhanthis。WealsoinspectedsundryspecimensofthegoldwhichisnowbeingfoundforthefirsttimeinNovaScotia，astothegloryandprobableprofitsofwhichtheNovaScotiansseemedtobefullyalive。Butstill，IthinkthedinneronshoretookrankwithusasthemostmemorableandmeritoriousofallthatwedidandsawatHalifax。Atseveno\'clockonthemorningbutoneafterthatwewerelandedatBoston。

AtBostonIfoundfriendsreadytoreceiveuswithopenarms，thoughtheywerefriendswehadneverknownbefore。IownthatI

feltmyselfburdenedwithmuchnervousanxietyatmyfirstintroductiontomenandwomeninBoston。IknewwhatthefeelingtherewaswithreferencetoEngland，andIknewalsohowimpossibleitisforanEnglishmantoholdhistongueandsubmittodispraiseofEngland。Asforgoingamongapeoplewhosewholemindswerefilledwithaffairsofthewar，andsayingnothingaboutthewar，I

knewthatnoresolutiontosuchaneffectcouldbecarriedout。Ifonecouldnottrustone\'sselftospeak，oneshouldhavestayedathomeinEngland。IwillherestatethatIalwaysdidspeakoutopenlywhatIthoughtandfelt，andthatthoughIencounteredverystrong——sometimesalmostfierce——opposition，Ineverwassubjectedtoanythingthatwaspersonallydisagreeabletome。

InSeptemberwedidnotstayaboveaweekinBoston，havingbeenfairlydrivenoutofitbythemusquitoes。IhadbeentoldthatI

shouldfindnobodyinBostonwhomIcaredtosee，aseverybodywashabituallyoutoftownduringtheheatofthelattersummerandearlyautumn；butthiswasnotso。Thewarandattendantturmoilsofwarhadmadetheseasonofvacationshorterthanusual，andmostofthoseforwhomIaskedwerebackattheirposts。IknownoplaceatwhichanEnglishmanmaydropdownsuddenlyamongapleasantercircleofacquaintance，orfindhimselfwithamorecleversetofmen，thanhecandoatBoston。IconfessthatinthisrespectIthinkthatbutfewtownsareatpresentmorefortunatelycircumstancedthanthecapitaloftheBayState，asMassachusettsiscalled，andthatveryfewtownsmakeabetteruseoftheiradvantages。Bostonhasarighttobeproudofwhatithasdonefortheworldofletters。Itisproud；butIhavenotfoundthatitspridewascarriedtoofar。

Bostonisnotinitselfafinecity，butitisaverypleasantcity。Theysaythattheharborisverygrandandverybeautiful。

ItcertainlyisnotsofineasthatofPortland，inanauticalpointofview，andascertainlyitisnotasbeautiful。ItistheentrancefromtheseaintoBostonofwhichpeoplesaysomuch；butIdidnotthinkitquiteworthyofallIhadheard。Insuchmatters，however，muchdependsonthepeculiarlightinwhichsceneryisseen。Aneveninglightisgenerallythebestforalllandscapes；andIdidnotseetheentrancetoBostonharborbyaneveninglight。ItwasnotthebeautyoftheharborofwhichI

thoughtthemost，butoftheteawhichhadbeensunkthere，andofallthatcameofthatsuccessfulspeculation。FewtownsnowstandinghavearighttobemoreproudoftheirantecedentsthanBoston。

ButasIhavesaid，itisnotspeciallyinterestingtotheeye；

whatnewtown，orevenwhatsimplyadulttown，canbeso？ThereisanAtheneum，andaStateHall，andafashionablestreet，——BeaconStreet，verylikePiccadillyasitrunsalongtheGreenPark，——andthereistheGreenParkoppositetothisPiccadilly，calledBostonCommon。BeaconStreetandBostonCommonareverypleasant。

Excellenthousesthereare，andlargechurches，andenormoushotels；butofsuchthingsastheseamancanwritenothingthatisworththereading。ThetravelerwhodesirestotellhisexperienceofNorthAmericamustwriteofpeopleratherthanofthings。

AsIhavesaid，IfoundmyselfinstantlyinvolvedindiscussionsonAmericanpoliticsandthebearingofEnglanduponthosepolitics。

“Whatdoyouthink，youinEngland——whatdoyoubelievewillbetheupshotofthiswar？“Thatwasthequestionalwaysaskedinthoseorotherwords。“Secession，certainly，“Ialwayssaid，butnotspeakingquitewiththatabruptness。“Andyoubelieve，then，thattheSouthwillbeattheNorth？“IexplainedthatIpersonallyhadneversothought，andthatIdidnotbelievethattobethegeneralidea。Men\'sopinionsinEngland，however，weretoodividedtoenablemetosaythattherewasanyprevailingconvictiononthematter。Myownimpressionwas，andis，thattheNorthwill，inamilitarypointofview，havethebestofthecontest——willbeattheSouth；butthattheNorthernerswillnotpreventsecession，lettheirsuccessbewhatitmay。ShouldtheNorthprevailafteratwoyears\'conflict，theNorthwillnotadmittheSouthtoanequalparticipationofgoodthingswiththemselves，eventhougheachseparaterebelliousStateshouldreturnsuppliant，likeaprodigalson，kneelingonthefloorofCongress，eachwithaseparateropeofhumiliationrounditsneck。Suchwasmyideaasexpressedthen，andIdonotknowthatIhavesincehadmuchcausetochangeit。

“Wewillnevergiveitup，“onegentlemansaidtome——and，indeed，manyhavesaidthesame——“tillthewholeterritoryisagainunitedfromtheBaytotheGulf。Itisimpossiblethatweshouldallowoftwonationalitieswithinthoselimits。““Anddoyouthinkitpossible，“Iasked，“thatyoushouldreceivebackintoyourbosomthispeoplewhichyounowhatewithsodeepahatred，andreceivethemagainintoyourarmsasbrothersonequalterms？Isitinaccordancewithexperiencethataconqueredpeopleshouldbesotreated，andthat，too，apeoplewhoseeveryhabitoflifeisatvariancewiththehabitsoftheirpresumedconquerors？Whenyouhavefloggedthemintoareturnoffraternalaffection，aretheytokeeptheirslavesoraretheytoabolishthem？““No，“saidmyfriend，“itmaynotbepracticabletoputthoserebelliousStatesatonceonanequalitywithourselves。ForatimetheywillprobablybetreatedastheTerritoriesarenowtreated。“(TheTerritoriesarevastoutlyingdistrictsbelongingtotheUnion，butnotasyetendowedwithStategovernmentsoraparticipationintheUnitedStatesCongress。)“Foratimetheymust，perhaps，losetheirfullprivileges；buttheUnionwillbeanxioustoreadmitthemattheearliestpossibleperiod。““Andastotheslaves？“I

askedagain。“LetthememigratetoLiberia——backtotheirowncountry。“IcouldnotsaythatIthoughtmuchofthesolutionofthedifficulty。Itwould，Isuggested，overtaskeventheenergyofAmericatosendoutanemigrationoffourmillionsouls，toprovidefortheirwantsinanewanduncultivatedcountry，andtoprovide，afterthat，fortheterriblegapmadeinthelabormarketoftheSouthernStates。“TheIsraeliteswentbackfrombondage，“saidmyfriend。Butawaywasopenedforthembyamiracleacrossthesea，andfoodwassenttothemfromheaven，andtheyhadamongthemaMosesforaleader，andaJoshuatofighttheirbattles。Icouldnotbutexpressmyfearthatthedaysofsuchimmigrationswereover。ThisplanofsendingbackthenegroestoAfricadidnotreachmeonlyfromoneorfromtwomouths，anditwassuggestedbymenwhoseopinionsrespectingtheircountryhaveweightathomeandareentitledtoweightabroad。Imentionthismerelytoshowhowinsurmountablewouldbethedifficultyofpreventingsecession，letwhichsidewinthatmay。

“WewillneverabandontherighttothemouthoftheMississippi。“

That，inallsucharguments，isastrongpointwithmenoftheNorthernStates——perhapsthepointtowhichtheyallreturnwiththegreatestfirmness。ItisthatonwhichMr。EverettinsistsinthelastparagraphoftheorationwhichhemadeinNewYorkonthe4thofJuly，1861。“TheMissouriandtheMississippiRivers，“hesays，“withtheirhundredtributaries，givetothegreatcentralbasinofourcontinentitscharacteranddestiny。TheoutletofthissystemliesbetweentheStatesofTennesseeandMissouri，ofMississippiandArkansas，andthroughtheStateofLouisiana。Theancientprovincesocalled，theproudestmonumentofthemightymonarchwhosenameitbears，passedfromthejurisdictionofFrancetothatofSpainin1763。Spaincovetedit——notthatshemightfillitwithprosperouscoloniesandrisingStates，butthatitmightstretchasabroadwastebarrier，infestedwithwarliketribes，betweentheAnglo-AmericanpowerandthesilverminesofMexico。WiththeindependenceoftheUnitedStatesthefearofastillmoredangerousneighborgrewuponSpain；and，intheinsaneexpectationofcheckingtheprogressoftheUnionwestward，shethreatened，andattimesattempted，toclosethemouthoftheMississippiontherapidly-increasingtradeoftheWest。ThebaresuggestionofsuchapolicyrousedthepopulationuponthebanksoftheOhio，theninconsiderable，asoneman。TheirconfidenceinWashingtonscarcelyrestrainedthemfromrushingtotheseizureofNewOrleans，whenthetreatyofSanLorenzoElReal，in1795，stipulatedforthemaprecariousrightofnavigatingthenoblerivertothesea，witharightofdepositatNewOrleans。Thissubjectwasforyearstheturning-pointofthepoliticsoftheWest；anditwasperfectlywellunderstoodthat，soonerorlater，shewouldbecontentwithnothinglessthanthesovereigncontrolofthemightystreamfromitshead-springtoitsoutletintheGulf。ANDTHATISASTRUENOWASITWASTHEN。“

Thisiswellput。Itdescribeswithforcethedesires，ambition，andnecessitiesofagreatnation，andittellswithhistoricaltruththestoryofthesuccessofthatnation。ItwasagreatthingdonewhenthepurchaseofthewholeofLouisianawascompletedbytheUnitedStates——thatcessionbyFrance，however，havingbeenmadeattheinstanceofNapoleon，andnotinconsequenceofanydemandmadebytheStates。ThedistrictthencalledLouisianaincludedthepresentStateofthatnameandtheStatesofMissouriandArkansas——includedalsotherighttopossess，ifnottheabsolutepossessionofallthatenormousexpanseofcountryrunningfromthencebacktothePacific:ahugeamountofterritory，ofwhichthemostfertileportioniswateredbytheMississippianditsvasttributaries。ThatriverandthosetributariesarenavigablethroughthewholecenteroftheAmericancontinentuptoWisconsinandMinnesota。TotheUnitedStatesthenavigationoftheMississippiwas，wemaysay，indispensable；andtotheStates，whennolongerunited，thenavigationwillbeequallyindispensable。ButthedaysaregonewhenanycountrysuchasSpainwascaninterferetostopthehighwaysoftheworldwiththeallbutavowedintentionofarrestingtheprogressofcivilization。ItmaybethattheNorthandtheSouthcanneveragainbefriendsasthecomponentpartsofonenation。Such，I

takeit，isthebeliefofallpoliticiansinEurope，andofmanyofthosewholiveacrossthewater。Butasseparatenationstheymayyetlivetogetherinamity，andsharebetweenthemthegreatwater-

wayswhichGodhasgiventhemfortheirenrichment。TheRhineisfreetoPrussiaandtoHolland。TheDanubeisnotclosedagainstAustria。ItwillbesaidthattheDanubehasinfactbeenclosedagainstAustria，inspiteoftreatiestothecontrary。Butthefaultsofbadandweakgovernmentsaremadeknownascautionstotheworld，andnotasfactstocopy。Thefreeuseofthewatersofacommonriverbetweentwonationsisanaffairfortreaty；andithasnotyetcometothatthattreatiesmustnecessarilybenullandvoidthroughthefalsenessofpoliticians。

“AndwhatwillEnglanddoforcotton？IsitnotthefactthatLordJohnRussell，withhisprofessedneutrality，intendstoexpresssympathywiththeSouth——intendstopavethewayfortheadventofSoutherncotton？““Yououghttoloveus，“sosaymeninBoston，“becausewehavebeenwithyouinheartandspiritforlong，longyears。Butyourtradehaseatenintoyoursouls，andyouloveAmericancottonbetterthanAmericanloyaltyandAmericanfellowship。“ThisIfoundtobeunfair，andinwhatpolitestlanguageIcoulduseIsaidso。IhadnotanyspecialknowledgeofthemindsofEnglishstatesmenonthismatter；butIknewaswellasAmericanscoulddowhatourstatesmenhadsaidanddonerespectingit。Thatcotton，ifitcamefromtheSouth，wouldbemadeverywelcomeinLiverpool，ofcourseIknew。Ifprivateenterprisecouldbringit，itmightbebrought。ButtheverydeclarationmadebyLordJohnRussellwasthesurestpledgethatEngland，asanation，wouldnotinterfereeventosupplyherownwants。Itmayeasilybeimaginedwhateagerwordsallthiswouldbringabout；butIneverfoundthateagerwordsledtofeelingswhichwerepersonallyhostile。

AlltheworldhasheardofNewport，inRhodeIsland，asbeingtheBrighton，andTenby，andScarboroughofNewEngland。AndthegloryofNewportisbynomeansconfinedtoNewEngland，butissharedbyNewYorkandWashington，andinordinaryyearsbytheextremeSouth。ItisthehabitofAmericanstogotosomewatering-placeeverysummer——thatis，tosomeplaceeitherofseawaterorofinlandwaters。ThisisdonemuchinEngland，moreinIrelandthaninEngland，butIthinkmoreintheStatesthaneveninIreland。

Butofallsuchsummerhaunts，Newportissupposedtobeinmanywaysthemostcaptivating。Inthefirstplace，itiscertainlythemostfashionable，and，inthenextplace，itissaidtobethemostbeautiful。WedecidedongoingtoNewport——ledthitherbythelatterreputationratherthantheformer。AswewerestillintheearlypartofSeptember，weexpectedtofindtheplacefull，butinthisweweredisappointed——disappointed，Isay，ratherthangratified，althoughacrowdedhouseatsuchaplaceiscertainlyanuisance。Butahousewhichispreparedtomakeupsixhundredbeds，andwhichiscalledontomakeuponlytwenty-five，becomes，afterawhile，somewhatmelancholy。Thenaturaldepressionofthelandlordcommunicatesitselftohisservants，andfromtheservantsitdescendstothetwenty-fiveguests，whowanderaboutthelongpassagesanddesertedbalconiesliketheghostsofthoseofthesummervisitors，whocannotrestquietlyintheirgravesathome。

InEnglandweknownothingofhotelspreparedforsixhundredvisitors，allofwhomareexpectedtoliveincommon。Domesticarchitectswouldbefrightenedatthedimensionswhichareneeded，andatthenumberofapartmentswhicharerequiredtobeclusteredunderoneroof。WewenttotheOceanHotelatNewport，andfancied，aswefirstenteredthehallunderaverandaashighasthehouse，andmadeourwayintothepassage，thatwehadbeentakentoawell-arrangedbarrack。“Haveyourooms？“Iasked，asamanalwaysdoesaskonfirstreachinghisinn。“Roomsenough，“theclerksaid；“wehaveonlyfiftyhere。“Butthatfiftydwindleddowntotwenty-fiveduringthenextdayortwo。

wewereamelancholyset，theladiesappearingtobeafflictedinthiswayworsethanthegentlemen，onaccountoftheirenforcedabstinencefromtobacco。Whatcantwelveladiesdoscatteredaboutadrawing-room，socalled，intendedfortheaccommodationoftwohundred？Thedrawing-roomattheOceanHotel，Newport，isnotasbigasWestminsterHall，butwould，Ishouldthink，makeaverygoodHouseofCommonsfortheBritishnation。Fancythefeelingsofaladywhenshewalksintosucharoom，intendingtospendhereveningthere，andfindssixorsevenotherladieslocatedonvarioussofasatterribledistances，allstrangerstoher。ShehascometoNewportprobablytoenjoyherself；andas，inaccordancewiththecustomsoftheplace，shehasdinedattwo，shehasnothingbeforeherfortheeveningbutthesocietyofthathuge，furnishedcavern。Herhusband，ifshehaveone，orherfather，orherlover，hasprobablyenteredtheroomwithher。Butamanhasneverthecouragetoenduresuchapositionlong。Hesidlesoutwithsomemutteredexcuse，andseekssolacewithacigar。Thelady，afterhalfanhourofcontemplation，creepssilentlynearsomecompanioninthedesert，andsuggestsinawhisperthatNewportdoesnotseemtobeveryfullatpresent。

Westayedthereforaweek，andwereverymelancholy；butinourmelancholywestilltalkedofthewar。Americansaresaidtobegiventobragging，anditisasinofwhichIcannotaltogetheracquitthem。ButIhaveconstantlybeensurprisedathearingtheNorthernmenspeakoftheirownmilitaryachievementswithanythingbutself-praise。“We\'vebeenwhipped，sir；andweshallbewhippedagainbeforewe\'vedone；uncommonwellwhippedweshallbe。““Webegancowardly，andwereafraidtosendourownregimentsthroughoneofourowncities。“ThisalludedtoademandthathadbeenmadeontheGovernmentthattroopsgoingtoWashingtonshouldnotbesentthroughBaltimore，becauseofthestrongfeelingforrebellionwhichwasknowntoexistinthatcity。PresidentLincolncompliedwiththisrequest，thinkingitwelltoavoidacollisionbetweenthemobandthesoldiers。“Webegancowardly，andnowwe\'regoingoncowardly，anddarn\'tattackthem。Well；whenwe\'vebeenwhippedoftenenough，thenweshalllearnthetrade。“Nowallthis——andIheardmuchofsuchanature——couldnotbecalledboasting。Butyetwithitalltherewasasubstratumofconfidence。IhaveheardNortherngentlemencomplainingofthePresident，complainingofallhisministers，oneafteranother，complainingofthecontractorswhowererobbingthearmy，ofthecommanderswhodidnotknowhowtocommandthearmy，andofthearmyitself，whichdidnotknowhowtoobey；butIdonotrememberthatIhavediscussedthematterwithanyNorthernerwhowouldadmitadoubtastoultimatesuccess。

WewerecertainlyrathermelancholyatNewport，andtheemptyhousemayperhapshavegivenitstonetothediscussionsonthewar。I

confessthatIcouldnotstandthedrawing-room——theladies\'

drawing-room，assuchlikeroomsarealwayscalledatthehotels——

andthatIbaselydesertedmywife。Icouldnotstanditeitherhereorelsewhere，anditseemedtomethatotherhusbands——ay，andevenlovers——wereashardpressedasmyself。Iprotestthatthereisnospotontheearth\'ssurfacesodeartomeasmyowndrawing-

room，orrathermywife\'sdrawing-room，athome；thatIamnotamangivenhugelytoclubs，butoneratherrejoicingintherustleofpetticoats。Iliketohavewomeninthesameroomwithme。ButatthesehotelsIfoundmyselfdrivenaway——propelledasitwerebysomeunknownforce——toabsentmyselffromthefemininehaunts。

Anythingwasmorepalatablethanthem，even“liquoringup“atanastybar，orsmokinginacomfortlessreading-roomamongadelugeofAmericannewspapers。AndIprotestalso——hopingasIdosothatImaysaymuchinthisbooktoprovethetruthofsuchprotestation——thatthiscomesfromnofaultoftheAmericanwomen。

Theyareaslovelyasourownwomen。Takengenerally，theyarebetterinstructed，thoughperhapsnotbettereducated。Theyareseldomtroubledwithmauvaisehonte；Idonotsayitinirony，butbeggingthatthewordsmaybetakenattheirpropermeaning。Theycanalwaystalk，andveryoftencantalkwell。Butwhenassembledtogetherinthesevast，cavernous，would-beluxurious，butintruthhorriblycomfortlesshoteldrawing-rooms，theyareunapproachable。

Ihaveseenlovers，whomIhaveknowntobelovers，unabletoremainfiveminutesinthesamecavernwiththeirbelovedones。

Andthenthemusic！Thereisalwaysapianoinahoteldrawing-

room，onwhich，ofcourse，someoneoftheforlornladiesisgenerallyemployed。Idonotsupposethatthesepianosareinfact，asarule，louderandharsher，moreviolentandlessmusical，thanotherinstrumentsofthekind。Theyseemtobeso，butthat，Itakeit，arisesfromtheexceptionalmentaldepressionofthosewhohavetolistentothem。Thentheladies，orprobablysomeonelady，willsing，andasshehearsherownvoiceringandechothroughtheloftycornersandroundtheemptywalls，sheissurprisedatherownforce，andwithincreasedeffortssingslouderandstilllouder。Sheistemptedtofancythatsheissuddenlygiftedwithsomepowerofvocalmelodyunknowntoherbefore，and，filledwiththegloryofherownperformance，shoutstillthewholehouserings。Atsuchmomentssheatleastishappy，ifnooneelseisso。Lookingatthegeneralsadnessofherposition，whocangrudgehersuchhappiness？

Andthenthechildren——babies，IshouldsayifIwerespeakingofEnglishbairnsoftheirage；butseeingthattheyareAmericans，I

hardlydaretocallthemchildren。Theactualageoftheseperfectly-civilizedandhighly-educatedbeingsmaybefromthreetofour。Onewilloftenseefiveorsixsuchseatedatthelongdinner-tableofthehotel，breakfastinganddiningwiththeirelders，andgoingthroughtheceremonywithallthegravity，andmorethanallthedecorum，oftheirgrandfathers。WhenIwasthreeyearsoldIhadnotyet，asIimagine，beenpromotedbeyondasilverspoonofmyownwherewithtoeatmybreadandmilkinthenursery；andIfeelassuredthatIwasundertheimmediatecareofanursemaid，asIgobbledupmymincedmuttonmixedwithpotatoesandgravy。ButathotellifeintheStatestheadultinfantlispstothewaiterforeverythingattable，handleshisfishwithepicureandelicacy，ischoiceinhisselectionofpickles，veryparticularthathisbeef-steakatbreakfastshallbehot，andisinstantinhisdemandforfreshiceinhiswater。Butperhapshis，orinthiscaseher，retreatfromtheroomwhenthemealisover，isthechef-d\'oeuvreofthewholeperformance。Thelittle，precocious，full-blownbeautyoffoursignifiesthatshehascompletedhermeal——oris“through“herdinner，asshewouldexpressit——bycarefullyextricatingherselffromthenapkinwhichhasbeentuckedaroundher。Thenthewaiter，everattentivetohermovements，drawsbackthechaironwhichsheisseated，andtheyoungladyglidestothefloor。AlittlegirlinOldEnglandwouldscrambledown，butlittlegirlsinNewEnglandneverscramble。Herfatherandmother，whoarenomorethanherchiefministers，walkbeforeheroutofthesaloon，andthenshe——swimsafterthem。Butswimmingisnottheproperword。Fishes，inmakingtheirwaythroughthewater，assist，orratherimpede，theirmotionwithnodorsalwriggle。NoanimaltaughttomovedirectlybyitsCreatoradoptsagaitsouseless，andatthesametimesograceless。Manywomen，havingreceivedtheirlessonsinwalkingfromalesseligibleinstructor，domoveinthisway，andsuchwomenthisunfortunatelittleladyhasbeeninstructedtocopy。ThepeculiarsteptowhichIalludeistobeseenoftenontheboulevardsinParis。Itistobeseenmoreofteninsecond-rateFrenchtowns，andamongfourth-rateFrenchwomen。Ofallsignsinwomenbetokeningvulgarity，badtaste，andaptitudetobadmorals，itisthesurest。AndthisisthegaitofgoingwhichAmericanmothers——

someAmericanmothersIshouldsay——lovetoteachtheirdaughters！

Asacomedyatahotelitisverydelightful，butinprivatelifeI

shouldobjecttoit。

TomeNewportcouldneverbeaplacecharmingbyreasonofitsowncharms。Thatitisaverypleasantplacewhenitisfullofpeopleandthepeopleareinspiritsandhappy，Idonotdoubt。Butthenthevisitorswouldbring，asfarasIamconcerned，thepleasantnesswiththem。Thecoastisnotfine。TothosewhoknowthebestportionsofthecoastofWalesorCornwall——orbetterstill，thewesterncoastofIreland，ofClareandKerryforinstance——itwouldnotbeinanywayremarkable。ItisbynomeansequaltoDieppeorBiarritz，andnottobetalkedofinthesamebreathwithSpezzia。Thehotels，too，areallbuiltawayfromthesea；sothatonecannotsitandwatchtheplayofthewavesfromone\'swindows。Noraretherepleasantramblingpathsdownamongtherocks，andfromoneshortstrandtoanother。Thereisexcellentbathingforthosewholikebathingonshelvingsand。I

don\'t。Thespotisabouthalfamilefromthehotels，andtothisthebathersarecarriedinomnibuses。Tilloneo\'clockladiesbathe，whichoperation，however，doesnotatallmilitateagainstthebathingofmen，butrathernecessitatesitasregardsthosemenwhohaveladieswiththem。Forhereladiesandgentlemenbatheindecorousdresses，andareverypolitetoeachother。ImustsaythatIthinktheladieshavethebestofit。Myideaofseabathing，formyowngratification，isnotcompatiblewithafullsuitofclothing。Iownthatmytastesarevulgar，andperhapsindecent；butIlovetojumpintothedeep，clearseafromoffarock，andIlovetobehamperedbynooutwardimpedimentsasIdoso。Forordinarybathers，forallladies，andformenlesssavageintheirinstinctsthanIam，thebathingatNewportisverygood。

Theprivatehouses——villaresidencesastheywouldbetermedbyanauctioneerinEngland——areexcellent。Manyofthemare，infact，largemansions，andaresurroundedwithgroundswhich，astheshrubsgrowup，willbeverybeautiful。Somehavelarge，well-keptlawns，stretchingdowntotherocks，andthese，tomytaste，givethecharmtoNewport。Theyextendabouttwomilesalongthecoast。

ShouldmylothavemademeacitizenoftheUnitedStates，Ishouldhavehadnoobjectiontobecomethepossessorofoneofthese“villaresidences；“butIdonotthinkthatIshouldhave“gonein“

forhotellifeatNewport。

Wehiredsaddle-horses，androdeoutnearlythelengthoftheisland。Itwasallverywell，buttherewaslittleinitremarkableeitherasregardscultivationorscenery。Wefoundnothingthatitwouldbepossibleeithertodescribeorremember。

TheAmericansoftheUnitedStateshavehadtimetobuildandpopulatevastcities，buttheyhavenotyethadtimetosurroundthemselveswithprettyscenery。Outlyinggrandsceneryisgivenbynature；buttheprettinessofhomesceneryisaworkofart。Itcomesfromthethoroughdrainingofland，fromtheplantingandsubsequentthinningoftrees，fromthecontrollingofwaters，andconstantuseofminutepatchesofbrokenland。Inanotherhundredyearsorso，RhodeIslandmaybe，perhaps，asprettyastheIsleofWight。Thehorseswhichwegotwerenotgood。Theywereunhandyandbadlymouthed，andthatwhichmywiferodewasaltogetherignorantoftheartofwalking。WehiredthemfromanEnglishmanwhohadestablishedhimselfatNewYorkasariding-masterforladies，andwhohadcometoNewportfortheseasononthesamebusiness。Hecomplainedtomewithmuchbitternessofthesaddle-

horseswhichcameinhisway——ofcoursethinkingthatitwasthespecialbusinessofacountrytoproducesaddle-horses，asIthinkitthespecialbusinessofacountrytoproducepens，ink，andpaperofgoodquality。Accordingtohim，ridinghasnotyetbecomeanAmericanart，andhencetheawkwardnessofAmericanhorses。

“Lordblessyou，sir！theydon\'tgiveananimalachanceofamouth。“Inthishealludedonly，Ipresume，tosaddle-horses。I

knownothingofthetrottinghorses，butIshouldimaginethatafinemouthmustbeanessentialrequisiteforatrottingmatchinharness。AsregardsridingatNewport，wewerenottemptedtorepeattheexperiment。Thenumberofcarriageswhichwesawthere——

rememberingasIdidthattheplacewascomparativelyempty——andtheirgeneralsmartness，surprisedmeverymuch。Itseemedthateverylady，withahouseofherown，hadalsoherowncarriage。

Thesecarriageswerealwaysopen，andthelawofthelandimperativelydemandsthattheoccupantsshallcovertheirkneeswithaworkedworstedapronofbrilliantcolors。TheseapronsatfirstIconfessseemedtawdry；buttheeyesoonbecomesusedtobrightcolors，incarriageapronsaswellasinarchitecture，andI

soonlearnedtolikethem。

RhodeIsland，astheStateisusuallycalled，isthesmallestStateintheUnion。ImayperhapsbestshowitsdisparitytootherStatesbysayingthatNewYorkextendsabouttwohundredandfiftymilesfromnorthtosouth，andthesamedistancefromeasttowest；

whereastheStatecalledRhodeIslandisaboutfortymileslongbytwentybroad，independentlyofcertainsmallislands。Itwould，infact，notformaconsiderableadditionifaddedontomanyoftheotherStates。Nevertheless，ithasallthesamepowersofself-

governmentasarepossessedbysuchnationalitiesastheStatesofNewYorkandPennsylvania，andsendstwoSenatorstotheSenateatWashington，asdothoseenormousStates。SmallastheStateis，RhodeIslanditselfformsbutasmallportionofit。TheauthorizedandpropernameoftheStateisProvidencePlantationandRhodeIsland。RogerWilliamswasthefirstfounderofthecolony，andheestablishedhimselfonthemainlandataspotwhichhecalledProvidence。HerenowstandstheCityofProvidence，thechieftownoftheState；andathriving，comfortabletownitseemstobe，fullofbanks，fedbyrailwaysandsteamers，andgoingaheadquiteasquicklyasRogerWilliamscouldinhisfondesthopeshavedesired。

RhodeIsland，asIhavesaid，hasalltheattributesofgovernmentincommonwithherstouterandmorefamoussisters。Shehasagovernor，andanupperhouseandalowerhouseoflegislature；andsheissomewhatfantasticintheuseoftheseconstitutionalpowers，forshecallsonthemtositnowinonetownandnowinanother。ProvidenceisthecapitaloftheState；buttheRhodeIslandparliamentsitssometimesatProvidenceandsometimesatNewport。AtstatedtimesalsoithastocollectitselfatBristol，andatotherstatedtimesatKingston，andatothersatEastGreenwich。Ofalllegislativeassembliesitisthemostperipatetic。UniversalsuffragedoesnotabsolutelyprevailinthisState，acertainpropertyqualificationbeingnecessarytoconferarighttovoteevenfortheStaterepresentatives。I

shouldthinkitwouldbewellforallpartiesifthewholeStatecouldbeswallowedupbyMassachusettsorbyConnecticut，eitherofwhichlieconvenientlyforthefeat；butIpresumethatanysuggestionofsuchanaturewouldberegardedastreasonbythemenofProvidencePlantation。

WereturnedbacktoBostonbyAttleborough，atownatwhich，inordinarytimes，thewholepopulationissupportedbythejewelers\'

trade。Itisaplacewithaspecialty，uponwhichspecialtyithasthrivenwellandbecomeatown。Butthespecialtyisoneilladaptedfortimesofwarandwewereassuredthatthetradewasforthepresentatanend。Whatmancouldnow-a-daysbuyjewels，orevenwhatwoman，seeingthateverythingwouldberequiredforthewar？Idonotsaythatsuchabstinencefromluxuryhasbeenbegottenaltogetherbyafeelingofpatriotism。ThedirecttaxeswhichallAmericanswillnowbecalledontopay，havehadandwillhavemuchtodowithsuchabstinence。InthemeantimethepoorjewelersofAttleboroughhavegonealtogethertothewall。