第10章

ThencomesthequestionwhetherMr。LincolnorhisgovernmentcouldhavepreventedthewarafterhehadentereduponhisofficeinMarch，1861？Idonotsupposethatanyonethinksthathecouldhaveavoidedsecessionandavoidedthewaralso；thatbyanyordinaryeffortofgovernmenthecouldhavesecuredtheadhesionoftheGulfStatestotheUnionafterthefirstshothadbeenfiredatFortSumter。ThegeneralopinioninEnglandis，Itakeit，this——

thatsecessionthenwasmanifestlynecessary，andthatalltheblood-shedandmoney-shed，andallthisdestructionofcommerceandofagriculturemighthavebeenpreventedbyagracefuladhesiontoanindisputablefact。Buttherearesomefacts，evensomeindisputablefacts，towhichagracefuladherenceisnotpossible。

CouldKingBombahavewelcomedGaribalditoNaples？CanthePopeshakehandswithVictorEmmanuel？CouldtheEnglishhavesurrenderedtotheirrebelcolonistspeaceablepossessionofthecolonies？Theindisputabilityofafactisnotveryeasilysettledwhilethecircumstancesareincourseofactionbywhichthefactistobedecided。ThemenoftheNorthernStateshavenotbelievedinthenecessityofsecession，buthavebelievedittobetheirdutytoenforcetheadherenceoftheseStatestotheUnion。TheAmericangovernmentshavebeenmuchgiventocompromises，buthadMr。LincolnattemptedanycompromisebywhichanyoneSouthernStatecouldhavebeenletoutoftheUnion，hewouldhavebeenimpeached。InallprobabilitythewholeConstitutionwouldhavegonetoruin，andthePresidencywouldhavebeenatanend。Atanyrate，hisPresidencywouldhavebeenatanend。Whensecession，orinotherwordsrebellion，wasoncecommenced，hehadnoalternativebuttheuseofcoercivemeasuresforputtingitdown——thatis，hehadnoalternativebutwar。Itisnottobesupposedthatheorhisministrycontemplatedsuchawarashasexisted——with600，000

meninarmsononeside，eachmanwithhiswholebelongingsmaintainedatacostof150l。perannum，orninetymillionssterlingperannumforthearmy。NordidwewhenweresolvedtoputdowntheFrenchrevolutionthinkofsuchanationaldebtaswenowowe。Thesethingsgrowbydegrees，andthemindalsogrowsinbecomingusedtothem；butIcannotseethattherewasanymomentatwhichMr。Lincolncouldhavestayedhishandandcriedpeace。

Itiseasytosaynowthatacquiescenceinsecessionwouldhavebeenbetterthanwar，buttherehasbeennomomentwhenhecouldhavesaidsowithanyavail。Itwasincumbentonhimtoputdownrebellion，ortobeputdownbyit。SoitwaswithusinAmericain1776。

IdonotthinkthatweinEnglandhavequitesufficientlytakenallthisintoconsideration。Wehavebeeninthehabitofexclaimingveryloudlyagainstthewar，execratingitscrueltyandanathematizingitsresults，asthoughthecrueltywereallsuperfluousandtheresultsunnecessary。ButIdonotremembertohaveseenanystatementastowhattheNorthernStatesshouldhavedone——whattheyshouldhavedone，thatis，asregardstheSouth，orwhentheyshouldhavedoneit。Itseemstomethatwehavedecidedasregardsthemthatcivilwarisaverybadthing，andthatthereforecivilwarshouldbeavoided。Butbadthingscannotalwaysbeavoided。Itisthisfeelingonourpartthathasproducedsomuchirritationinthemagainstus——reproducing，ofcourse，irritationonourpartagainstthem。Theycannotunderstandthatweshouldnotwishthemtobesuccessfulinputtingdownarebellion；norcanweunderstandwhytheyshouldbeoutrageousagainstusforstandingaloof，andkeepingourhands，ifitbeonlypossible，outofthefire。

WhenSlidellandMasonwerearrested，myopinionswerenotchanged，butmyfeelingswerealtered。IseemedtoacknowledgetomyselfthatthetreatmenttowhichEnglandhadbeensubjected，andthemannerinwhichthattreatmentwasdiscussed，madeitnecessarythatIshouldregardthequestionasitexistedbetweenEnglandandtheStates，ratherthaninitsreferencetotheNorthandSouth。I

hadalwaysfeltthatasregardedtheactionofourgovernmentwehadbeensansreproche；thatinarrangingourconductwehadthoughtneitherofmoneynorpoliticalinfluence，butsimplyofthejusticeofthecase——promisingtoabstainfromallinterferenceandkeepingthatpromisefaithfully。IthadbeenquitecleartomethatthemenoftheNorth，andthewomenalso，hadfailedtoappreciatethis，looking，asmeninaquarrelalwaysdolook，forspecialfavorontheirside。EverythingthatEnglanddidwaswrong。Ifaprivatemerchant，athisownrisk，tookacargoofriflestosomeSouthernport，thatacttoNortherneyeswasanactofEnglishinterference——offavorshowntotheSouthbyEnglandasanation；buttwentyshiploadsofriflessentfromEnglandtotheNorthmerelysignifiedabrisktradeandadesireforprofit。The“JamesAdger，“aNorthernman-of-war，wasrefittedatSouthamptonasamatterofcourse。TherewasnoblametoEnglandforthat。

ButtheNashville，belongingtotheConfederates，shouldnothavebeenallowedintoEnglishwaters。Itwasuselesstospeakofneutrality。NoNorthernerwouldunderstandthatarebelcouldhaveanymutualright。TheSouthhadnoclaiminhiseyesasabelligerent，thoughtheNorthclaimedallthoserightswhichhecouldonlyenjoybythefactoftherebeingarecognizedwarbetweenhimandhisenemytheSouth。TheNorthwaslearningtohateEngland，anddaybydaythefeelinggrewuponmethat，muchasIwishedtoespousethecauseoftheNorth，Ishouldhavetoespousethecauseofmyowncountry。ThenSlidellandMasonwerearrested，andIbegantocalculatehowlongImightremaininthecountry。“Thereisnodanger。Wearequiteright，“thelawyerssaid。“ThereareVattel，andPuffendorff，andStowell，andPhillimore，andWheaton，“saidtheladies。“Ambassadorsarecontrabandalltheworldover——moresothangunpowder；andiftakeninaneutralbottom，“etc。Iwonderwhyshipsarealwayscalledbottomswhenspokenofwithlegaltechnicality？Butneitherthelawyersnortheladiesconvincedme。Iknowthattherearematterswhichwillbereadnotinaccordancewithanywrittenlaw，butinaccordancewiththebiasofthereader\'smind。Suchlawsaremadetobestrainedanyway。Iknewhowitwouldbe。AllthelegalacumenofNewEnglanddeclaredtheseizureofSlidellandMasontoberight。ThelegalacumenofOldEnglandhasdeclaredittobewrong；andIhavenodoubtthattheladiesofOldEnglandcanproveittobewrongoutofYattel，Puffendorff，Stowell，Phillimore，andWheaton。

“Butthere\'sGrotius，“Isaid，toanelderlyfemaleatNewYork，whohadquotedtomesomehalfdozenwritersoninternationallaw，thinkingtherebythatIshouldtrumpherlastcard。“I\'velookedintoGrotiustoo，“saidshe，“andasfarasIcansee，“etc。etc。

etc。SoIhadtofallbackagainontheconvictionstowhichinstinctandcommonsensehadbroughtme。IneverdoubtedforamomentthatthoseconvictionswouldbesupportedbyEnglishlawyers。

IleftBostonwithasadfeelingatmyheartthataquarrelwasimminentbetweenEnglandandtheStates，andthatanysuchquarrelmustbedestructivetothecauseoftheNorth。IhadneverbelievedthattheStatesofNewEnglandandtheGulfStateswouldagainbecomepartsofonenation，butIhadthoughtthatthetermsofseparationwouldbedictatedbytheNorth，andnotbytheSouth。

IhadfeltassuredthatSouthCarolinaandtheGulfStates，acrossfromtheAtlantictoTexas，wouldsucceedinformingthemselvesintoaseparateconfederation；butIhadstillhopedthatMaryland，Virginia，Kentucky，andMissourimightbesavedtothegranderempireoftheNorth，andthatthusagreatblowtoslaverymightbetheconsequenceofthiscivilwar。ButsuchascendencycouldonlyfalltotheNorthbyreasonoftheircommandofthesea。TheNorthernportswereallopen，andtheSouthernportswereallclosed。Butifthisshouldbereversed。IfbyEngland\'sactiontheSouthernportsshouldbeopened，andtheNorthernportsclosed，theNorthcouldhavenofairexpectationofsuccess。TheascendencyinthatcasewouldallbewiththeSouth。Uptothatmoment——theChristmasof1861——MarylandwaskeptinsubjectionbythegunswhichGeneralDixhadplantedovertheCityofBaltimore。

Two-thirdsofVirginiawereinactiverebellion，coercedoriginallyintothatpositionbyherdependenceforthesaleofherslavesonthecottonStates。Kentuckywasdoubtful，anddivided。WhentheFederaltroopsprevailed，Kentuckywasloyal；whentheConfederatetroopsprevailed，Kentuckywasrebellious。TheconditioninMissouriwasmuchthesame。ThesefourStates，bytwoofwhichthecapital，withitsDistrictofColumbia，issurrounded，mightbegainedormightbelost。AndthesefourStatesaresusceptibleofwhitelabor——asmuchsoasOhioandIllinois——arerichinfertility，andrichalsoinallassociationswhichmustbedeartoAmericans。WithoutVirginia，Maryland，andKentucky，withoutthePotomac，theChesapeake，andMountVernon，theNorthwouldindeedbeshornofitsglory！ButitseemedtobeinthepoweroftheNorthtosayunderwhattermssecessionshouldtakeplace，andwhereshouldbetheline。ASenatorfromSouthCarolinacouldneveragainsitinthesamechamberwithonefromMassachusetts；

butthereneedbenosuchbaragainsttheborderStates。Somuchmightatanyratebegained，andmightstandhereafterastheproductofallthatmoneyspenton600，000soldiers。ButiftheNorthernersshouldnowelecttothrowthemselvesintoaquarrelwithEngland，ifinthegratificationofashamelessbraggadociotheyshouldinsistondoingwhattheyliked，notonlywiththeirown，butwiththepropertyofallothersalso，itcertainlydidseemasthoughutterruinmustawaittheircause。WithEngland，oronemightsaywithEurope，againstthem，secessionmustbeaccomplished，notonNorthernterms，butontermsdictatedbytheSouth。Thechoicewasthenforthemtomake；andjustatthattimeitseemedasthoughtheywereresolvedtothrowawayeverygoodcardoutoftheirhand。SuchhadbeentheministerialwisdomofMr。Seward。IrememberhearingthematterdiscussedineasytermsbyoneoftheUnitedStatesSenators。“Remember，Mr。Trollope，“hesaidtome，“wedon\'twantawarwithEngland。Ifthechoiceisgiventous，wehadrathernotfightEngland。Fightingisabadthing。Butrememberthisalso，Mr。Trollope，thatifthematterispressedonus，wehavenogreatobjection。Wehadrathernot，butwedon\'tcaremuchonewayortheother。“Whatoneindividualmaysaytoanotherisnotofmuchmoment，butthisSenatorwasexpressingthefeelingsofhisconstituents，whowerethelegislatureoftheStatefromwhencehecame。HewasexpressingthegeneralideaonthesubjectofalargebodyofAmericans。ItwasnotthatheandhisStatehadreallynoobjectiontothewar。

Suchawarloomedterriblylargebeforethemindsofthemall。

Theyknowittobefraughtwiththesaddestconsequences。ItwassoregardedinthemindofthatSenator。Butthebraggadociocouldnotbeomitted。Hadbeomittedit，hewouldhavebeenuntruetohisconstituency。

WhenIleftBostonforWashington，nothingwasasyetknownofwhattheEnglishgovernmentortheEnglishlawyersmightsay。ThiswasinthefirstweekinDecember，andtheexpectedvoicefromEnglandcouldnotbeheardtilltheendofthesecondweek。Itwasaperiodofgreatsuspense，andofgreatsorrowalsotothemoresober-mindedAmericans。Tometheideaofsuchawarwasterrible。

Itseemedthatinthesedaysallthehopesofouryouthwerebeingshattered。Thatpoeticturningoftheswordintoasickle，whichgladdenedourheartstenortwelveyearssince，hadbeencleanbanishedfrommen\'sminds。Tobelongtoapeacepartywastobeeitherafanatic，anidiot，oradriveler。Theartsofwarhadbecomeeverything。Armstrongguns，themselvesindestructiblebutcapableofdestroyingeverythingwithinsight，andmostthingsoutofsight，weretheonlyrecognizedresultsofman\'sinventivefaculties。Tobuildbigger，stronger，andmoreshipsthantheFrenchwasEngland\'sglory。Tohitaspeckwithariflebulletat800yardsdistancewasanEnglishman\'sfirstduty。Theproperuseforayoungman\'sleisurehourswasthepracticeofdrilling。AllthishadcomeuponuswithveryquickstepssincethebeginningoftheRussianwar。Butiffightingmustneedsbedone，onedidnotfeelspecialgriefatfightingaRussian。ThattheIndianmutinyshouldbeputdownwasamatterofcourse。ThatthoseChineserascalsshouldbeforcedintotheharnessofcivilizationwasagoodthing。ThatEnglandshouldbeasstrongasFrance——or，perhaps，ifpossiblealittlestronger——recommendeditselftoanEnglishman\'smindasaStatenecessity。ButawarwiththeStatesofAmerica！InthinkingofitIbegantobelievethattheworldwasgoingbackward。Oversixtymillionssterlingofstock——railwaystockandsuchlike——areheldinAmericabyEnglishmen，andthechanceswouldbethatbeforesuchawarcouldbefinishedthewholeofthatwouldbeconfiscated。FamilyconnectionsbetweentheStatesandtheBritishislesarealmostascloseasbetweenoneofthoseislandsandanother。ThecommercialintercoursebetweenthetwocountrieshasgivenbreadtomillionsofEnglishmen，andabreakinitwouldrobmillionsoftheirbread。Thesepeoplespeakourlanguage，useourprayers，readourbooks，areruledbyourlaws，dressthemselvesinourimage，arewarmwithourblood。Theyhaveallourvirtues；andtheirvicesareourowntoo，loudlyaswecalloutagainstthem。Theyareoursonsandourdaughters，thesourceofourgreatestpride，andaswegrowoldtheyshouldbethestaffofourage。SuchawarasweshouldnowwagewiththeStateswouldbeanunloosingofhelluponallthatisbestupontheworld\'ssurface。IfinsuchawarwebeattheAmericans，theywiththeirproudstomachswouldneverforgiveus。Iftheyshouldbevictors，weshouldneverforgiveourselves。IcertainlycouldnotbringmyselftospeakofitwiththeequanimityofmyfriendtheSenator。

IwentthroughNewYorktoPhiladelphia，andmadeashortvisittothelattertown。PhiladelphiaseemstometohavethrownoffitsQuakergarb，andtopresentitselftotheworldinthegarmentsordinarilyassumedbylargecities——bywhichIintendtoexpressmyopinionthatthePhiladelphiansarenot，intheselatterdays，anybetterthantheirneighbors。Iamnotsurewhetherinsomerespectstheymaynotperhapsbeworse。Quakers——Quakersabsolutelyintheveryfleshofclosebonnetsandbrownknee-

breeches——arestilltobeseenthere；buttheyarenotnumerous，andwouldnotstriketheeyeifonedidnotspeciallylookforaQuakeratPhiladelphia。Itisalargetown，withaverylargehotel——therearenodoubthalfadozenlargehotels，butoneofthemisspeciallygreat——withlong，straightstreets，goodshopsandmarkets，anddecent，comfortable-lookinghouses。ThehousesofPhiladelphiagenerallyarenotsolargeasthoseofothergreatcitiesintheStates。TheyaremoremodestthanthoseofNewYork，andlesscommodiousthanthoseofBoston。Theirmoststrikingappendageisthemarblestepsatthefrontdoors。Twodoors，asarule，enjoyonesetofsteps，ontheouteredgesofwhichthereisgenerallynoparapetorraisedcurb-stone。This，tomyeye，gavethehousesanunfinishedappearance——asthoughthemarbleranshort，andnofurtherexpenditurecouldbemade。ThefrostcamewhenIwasthere，andthenallthesestepswerecoveredupinwoodencases。

TheCityofPhiladelphialiesbetweenthetworivers，theDelawareandtheSchuylkill。Eightchiefstreetsrunfromrivertoriver，andtwenty-fourprincipalcross-streetsbisecttheeightatrightangles。Thecross-streetsareallcalledbytheirnumbers。Inthelongstreetsthenumbersofthehousesarenotconsecutive，butfollowthenumbersofthecross-streets；sothatapersonlivingonChestnutStreetbetweenTenthStreetandEleventhStreet，andtendoorsfromTenthStreet，wouldliveatNo。1010。TheoppositehousewouldbeNo。1011。Itthusfollowsthatthenumberofthehouseindicatestheexactblockofhousesinwhichitissituated。

Idonotliketheright-angledbuildingofthesetowns，nordoI

likethesoundofTwentiethStreetandThirtiethStreet；butImustacknowledgethatthearrangementinPhiladelphiahasitsconvenience。InNewYorkIfounditbynomeansaneasythingtoarriveatthedesiredlocality。

TheyboastinPhiladelphiathattheyhavehalfamillioninhabitants。Ifthisbetakenasatruecalculation，Philadelphiaisinsizethefourthcityintheworld——puttingoutofthequestionthecitiesofChina，astowhichwehaveheardsomuchandbelievesolittle。ButinmakingthiscalculationthecitizensincludethepopulationofadistrictonsomesidestenmilesdistantfromPhiladelphia。Ittakesinothertowns，connectedwithitbyrailwaybutseparatedbylargespacesofopencountry。

Americancitiesareveryproudoftheirpopulation；butiftheyallcountedinthisway，therewouldsoonbenoruralpopulationleftatall。ThereisaveryfinebankatPhiladelphia，andPhiladelphiaisatownsomewhatcelebratedinitsbankinghistory。

Myremarkshere，however，applysimplytotheexternalbuilding，andnottoitsinternalhonestyandwisdom，ortoitscommercialcredit。

InPhiladelphiaalsostandstheoldhouseofCongress——thehouseinwhichtheCongressoftheUnitedStateswasheldpreviousto1800，whenthegovernmentandtheCongresswithitweremovedtothenewCityofWashington。Ibelieve，however，thatthefirstCongress，properlysocalled，wasassembledatNewYorkin1789，thedateoftheinaugurationofthefirstPresident。Itwas，however，hereinthisbuildingatPhiladelphiathattheindependenceoftheUnionwasdeclaredin1776，andthattheConstitutionoftheUnitedStateswasframed。

Pennsylvania，withPhiladelphiaforitscapital，wasoncetheleadingStateoftheUnion，leadingbyalongdistance。AttheendofthelastcenturyitbeatalltheotherStatesinpopulation，buthassincebeensurpassedbyNewYorkinallrespects——inpopulation，commerce，wealth，andgeneralactivity。OfcourseitisknownthatPennsylvaniawasgrantedtoWilliamPenn，theQuaker，byCharlesII。Icannotcompletelyunderstandwhatwasthemeaningofsuchgrants——howfartheyimpliedabsolutepossessionintheterritory，orhowfartheyconfirmedsimplythepowerofsettlingandgoverningacolony。Inthiscaseaveryconsiderablepropertywasconfirmed；astheclaimmadebyPenn\'schildren，afterPenn\'sdeath，wasboughtupbythecommonwealthofPennsylvaniafor130，000l。，which，inthosedays，wasalargepriceforalmostanylandedestateontheothersideoftheAtlantic。

Pennsylvanialiesdirectlyonthebordersofslaveland，beingimmediatelynorthofMaryland。MasonandDixon\'sline，ofwhichwehearsooften，andwhichwasfirstestablishedasthedivisionbetweenslavesoilandfreesoil，runsbetweenPennsylvaniaandMaryland。ThelittleStateofDelaware，whichliesbetweenMarylandandtheAtlantic，isalsotaintedwithslavery，butthestainisnotheavynorindelible。Inapopulationofahundredandtwelvethousand，therearenottwothousandslaves，andofthesetheownersgenerallywouldwillinglyridthemselvesiftheycould。

Itis，however，apointofhonorwiththeseowners，asitisalsoinMaryland，nottoselltheirslaves；andamanwhocannotsellhisslavesmustkeepthem。Werehetoenfranchisethemandsendthemabouttheirbusiness，theywouldcomebackuponhishands。

Werehetoenfranchisethemandpaythemwagesforwork，theywouldgetthewages，buthewouldnotgetthework。Theywouldgetthewages；butattheendofthreemonthstheywouldstillfallbackuponhishandsindebtanddistress，lookingtohimforaidandcomfortasachildlooksforit。ItisnoteasytogetridofaslaveinaslaveState。Thatquestionofenfranchisingslavesisnotonetobeveryreadilysolved。

InPennsylvaniatherightofvotingisconfinedtofreewhitemen。

InNewYorkthecoloredfreemenhavetherighttovote，providingtheyhaveacertainsmallpropertyqualification，andhavebeencitizensforthreeyearsintheState，whereasawhitemanneedhavebeenacitizenbutfortendays，andneedhavenopropertyqualification——fromwhichitisseenthatthepositionofthenegrobecomesworse，orlesslikethatofawhiteman，astheborderofslavelandismorenearlyreached。But，intheteethofthisembargooncoloredmen，theconstitutionofPennsylvaniaassertsbroadlythatallmenarebornequallyfreeandindependent。Onecannotconceivehowtwoclausescanhavefoundtheirwayintothesamedocumentsoabsolutelycontradictorytoeachother。Thefirstclausesaysthatwhitemenshallvote，andthatblackmenshallnot——whichmeansthatallpoliticalactionshallbeconfinedtowhitemen。Thesecondclausesaysthatallmenarebornequallyfreeandindependent。

InPhiladelphiaIforthefirsttimecameacrosslivesecessionists——secessionistswhopronouncedthemselvestobesuch。

IwillnotsaythatIhadmetinothercitiesmenwhofalselydeclaredthemselvestruetotheUnion；butIhadfancied，inregardtosome，thattheirwordswerealittlestrongerthantheirfeelings。Whenaman\'sbread——and，muchmore，whenthebreadofhiswifeandchildren——dependsonhisprofessingacertainlineofpoliticalconviction，itisveryhardforhimtodenyhisassenttothetruthoftheargument。Onefeelsthataman，undersuchcircumstances，isboundtobeconvinced，unlesshebeinapositionwhichmaymakeastanchadherencetooppositepoliticsamatterofgravepublicimportance。IntheNorthIhadfanciedthatIcouldsometimesreadasecessionisttendencyunderacloudofUnionistprotestations。ButinPhiladelphiamendidnotseemtothinkitnecessarytohaverecoursetosuchacloud。Igenerallyfound，inmixedsociety，thateventherethediscussionofsecessionwasnotpermitted；butinsocietythatwasnotmixedIheardverystrongopinionsexpressedoneachside。WiththeUnionistsnothingwassostrongasthenecessityofkeepingofSlidellandMason；whenI

suggestedthattheEnglishgovernmentwouldprobablyrequiretheirsurrender，Iwastalkeddownandridiculed。“Neverthat——comewhatmay。“Then，withinhalfanhour，IwouldbetoldbyasecessionistthatEnglandmustdemandreparationifshemeanttoretainanyplaceamongthegreatnationsoftheworld；buthealsowoulddeclarethatthemenwouldnotbesurrendered。“Shemustmakethedemand，“thesecessionistswouldsay，“andthentherewillbewar；

andafterthatweshallseewhoseportswillbeblockaded！“TheSouthernerhaseverlookedtoEnglandforsomebreachoftheblockadequiteasstronglyastheNorthhaslookedtoEnglandforsympathyandaidinkeepingit。

TherailwayfromPhiladelphiatoBaltimorepassesalongthetopofChesapeakeBayandacrosstheSusquehannaRiver；atleasttherailwaycarsdoso。Ononesideofthatrivertheyarerunontoahugeferry-boat，andareagainrunoffattheotherside。Suchanoperationwouldseemtobeoneofdifficultytousunderanycircumstances；butastheSusquehannaisatidalriver，risingandfallingaconsiderablenumberoffeet，thenaturalimpedimentinthewayofsuchanenterprisewould，Ithink，havestaggeredus。

Weshouldhavebuiltabridgecostingtwoorthreemillionssterling，onwhichnoconceivableamountoftrafficwouldpayafairdividend。Here，incrossingtheSusquehanna，theboatissoconstructedthatitsdeckshallbelevelwiththelineoftherailwayathalftide，sothattheinclinedplanefromtheshoredowntotheboat，orfromtheshoreuptotheboat，shallneverexceedhalftheamountoftheriseorfall。Onewouldsupposethatthemostintricatemachinerywouldhavebeennecessaryforsuchanarrangement；butitwasallroughandsimple，andapparentlymanagedbytwonegroes。Wewouldemployasmallcorpsofengineerstoconductsuchanoperation，andmenandwomenwouldbedetainedintheircarriagesunderallmannerofthreatsastotheperiloflifeandlimb；buthereeverybodywasexpectedtolookoutforhimself。Thecarsweredraggeduptheinclinedplanebyahawserattachedtoanengine，whichhawser，hadthestressbrokenit，asI

couldnotbutfancyprobable，wouldhaveflownbackandcuttopiecesalotofuswhowerestandinginfrontofthecar。ButIdonotthinkthatanysuchaccidentwouldhavecausedverymuchattention。LifeandlimbsarenotheldtobesoprecioushereastheyareinEngland。Itmaybeaquestionwhetherwithustheyarenotalmosttooprecious。RegardingrailwaysinAmericagenerally，astotherelativesafetyofwhich，whencomparedwithourown，wehavenotinEnglandahighopinion，ImustsaythatIneversawanyaccidentorinanywaybecameconversantwithone。Itissaidthatlargenumbersofmenandwomenareslaughteredfromtimetotimeondifferentlines；butifitbeso，thenewspapersmakeverylightofsuchcases。Imyselfhaveseennosuchslaughter，norhaveIevenfoundmyselfinthevicinityofabrokenbone。BeyondtheSusquehannawepassedoveracreekofChesapeakeBayonalongbridge。Thewholesceneryhereisverypretty，andtheviewuptheSusquehannaisfine。ThisisthebaywhichdividestheStateofMarylandintotwoparts，andwhichisblessedbeyondallotherbaysbythepossessionofcanvas-backducks。NaturehasdoneagreatdealfortheStateofMaryland，butinnothingmorethaninsendingthitherthesewebfootedbirdsofParadise。

NaturehasdoneagreatdealforMaryland；andFortunealsohasdonemuchforitintheselatterdaysindirectingthewarfromitsterritory。ButforthepeculiarpositionofWashingtonasthecapital，allthatisnowbeingdoneinVirginiawouldhavebeendoneinMaryland，andImustsaythattheMarylandersdidtheirbesttobringaboutsucharesult。HadthepresenceofthewarbeenregardedbythemenofBaltimoreasanunalloyedbenefit，theycouldnothavemadeagreaterstruggletobringitclosetothem。

Neverthelessfatehassofarsparedthem。

AsthepositionofMarylandandthecourseofeventsastheytookplaceinBaltimoreonthecommencementofsecessionhadconsiderableinfluencebothintheNorthandintheSouth，IwillendeavortoexplainhowthatStatewasaffected，andhowthequestionwasaffectedbythatState。Maryland，asIhavesaidbefore，isaslaveStatelyingimmediatelysouthofMasonandDixon\'sline。SmallportionsbothofVirginiaandofDelawaredorunnorthofMaryland，butpracticallyMarylandisthefrontierStateoftheslaveStates。ItwasthereforeofmuchimportancetoknowwhichwayMarylandwouldgointheeventofsecessionamongtheslaveStatesbecominggeneral；andofmuchalsotoascertainwhetheritcouldsecedeifdesirousofdoingso。IaminclinedtothinkthatasaStateitwasdesirousoffollowingVirginia，thoughtherearemanyinMarylandwhodenythisverystoutly。ButitwasatonceevidentthatifloyaltytotheNorthcouldnotbehadinMarylandofitsownfreewill，adherencetotheNorthmustbeenforceduponMaryland。OtherwisetheCityofWashingtoncouldnotbemaintainedastheexistingcapitalofthenation。

ThequestionofthefidelityoftheStatetotheUnionwasfirsttriedbythearrivalatBaltimoreofacertainCommissionerfromtheStateofMississippi，whovisitedthatcitywiththeobjectofinducingsecession。ItmustbeunderstoodthatBaltimoreisthecommercialcapitalofMaryland，whereasAnnapolisistheseatofgovernmentandthelegislature——oris，inotherterms，thepoliticalcapital。Baltimoreisacitycontaining230，000

inhabitants，andisconsideredtohaveasstrongandperhapsasviolentamobasanycityintheUnion。Oftheabovenumber30，000

arenegroesand2000areslaves。TheCommissionermadehisappeal，tellinghistaleofSoutherngrievances，declaring，amongotherthings，thatsecessionwasnotintendedtobreakupthegovernmentbuttoperpetuateit，andaskedfortheassistanceandsympathyofMaryland。ThiswasinDecember，1860。TheCommissionerwasansweredbyGovernorHicks，whowasplacedinasomewhatdifficultposition。TheexistinglegislatureoftheStatewaspresumedtobesecessionist，butthelegislaturewasnotsitting，norintheordinarycourseofthingswouldthatlegislaturehavebeencalledontositagain。ThelegislatureofMarylandiselectedeveryotheryear，andintheordinarycoursesitsonlyonceinthetwoyears。Thatsessionhadbeenheld，andtheexistinglegislaturewasthereforeexemptfromfurtherwork——unlessspeciallysummonedforanextraordinarysession。TodothisiswithinthepoweroftheGovernor。ButGovernorHicks，whoseemstohavebeenmainlyanxioustokeepthingsquiet，andwhoseindividualpoliticsdidnotcomeoutstrongly，wasnotinclinedtoissuethesummons。“Letusshowmoderationaswellasfirmness，“hesaid；andthatwasaboutallhedidsaytotheCommissionerfromMississippi。TheGovernorafterthatwasdirectlycalledontoconvenethelegislature；butthisherefusedtodo，allegingthatitwouldnotbesafetotrustthediscussionofsuchasubjectassecessionto“excitedpoliticians，manyofwhom，havingnothingtolosefromthedestructionofthegovernment，mayhopetoderivesomegainfromtheruinoftheState！“Iquotethesewords，comingfromtheheadoftheexecutiveoftheStateandspokenwithreferencetothelegislatureoftheState，withtheobjectofshowinginwhatlightthepoliticalleadersofaStatemaybeheldinthatveryStatetowhichtheybelong。IfwearetojudgeoftheselegislatorsfromtheopinionexpressedbyGovernorHicks，theycouldhardlyhavebeenfitfortheirplaces。Thatplanofgoverningbythelittlemenhascertainlynotanswered。ItneedhardlybesaidthatGovernorHicks，havingexpressedsuchanopinionofhisState\'slegislature，refusedtocallthemtoanextraordinarysession。

Onthe18thofApril，1860，GovernorHicksissuedaproclamationtothepeopleofMaryland，beggingthemtobequiet，thechiefobjectofwhich，however，wasthatofpromisingthatnotroopsshouldbesentfromtheirState，unlesswiththeobjectofguardingtheneighboringCityofWashington——apromisewhichhehadnomeansoffulfilling，seeingthatthePresidentoftheUnitedStatesisthecommander-in-chiefofthearmyofthenation，andcansummonthemilitiaoftheseveralStates。ThisproclamationbytheGovernortotheStatewasimmediatelybackedupbyonefromtheMayorofBaltimoretothecity，inwhichhecongratulatesthecitizensontheGovernor\'spromisethatnoneoftheirtroopsaretobesenttoanotherState；andthenhetellsthemthattheyshallbepreservedfromthehorrorsofcivilwar。

ButontheverynextdaythehorrorsofcivilwarbeganinBaltimore。BythistimePresidentLincolnwascollectingtroopsatWashingtonfortheprotectionofthecapital；andthatarmyofthePotomac，whichhaseversinceoccupiedtheVirginiansideoftheriver，wasincourseofconstruction。Tojointhis，certaintroopsfromMassachusettsweresentdownbytheusualroute，viaNewYork，Philadelphia，andBaltimore；butontheirreachingBaltimorebyrailway，themobofthattownrefusedtoallowthemtopassthrough，——andafightbegan。Ninecitizenswerekilledandtwosoldiers，andasmanymorewerewounded。This，Ithink，wasthefirstbloodspiltinthecivilwar；andtheattackwasfirstmadebythemobofthefirstslavecityreachedbytheNorthernsoldiers。Thisgoesfartoshow，notthattheborderStatesdesiredsecession，butthat，whencompelledtochoosebetweensecessionandUnion，whennotallowedbycircumstancestoremainneutral，theirsympathieswerewiththeirsisterslaveStatesratherthanwiththeNorth。

ThentherewasagreatrunningaboutofofficialmenbetweenBaltimoreandWashington，andthePresidentwasbesiegedwithentreatiesthatnotroopsshouldbesentthroughBaltimore。NowthiswashardenoughuponPresidentLincoln，seeingthathewasboundtodefendhiscapital，thathecouldgetnotroopsfromtheSouth，andthatBaltimoreisonthehigh-roadfromWashingtonbothtotheWestandtotheNorth；but，nevertheless，hegaveway。Hadhenotdoneso，allBaltimorewouldhavebeeninablazeofrebellion，andthesceneofthecomingcontestmusthavebeenremovedfromVirginiatoMaryland，andCongressandthegovernmentmusthavetraveledfromWashingtonnorthtoPhiladelphia。“TheyshallnotcomethroughBaltimore，“saidMr。Lincoln。“ButtheyshallcomethroughtheStateofMaryland。TheyshallbepassedoverChesapeakeBaybywatertoAnnapolis，andshallcomeupbyrailfromthence。“ThisarrangementwasasdistastefultotheStateofMarylandastheother；butAnnapolisisasmalltownwithoutamob，andtheMarylandershadnomeansofpreventingthepassageofthetroops。AttemptsweremadetorefusetheuseoftheAnnapolisbranchrailway，butGeneralButlerhadthearrangingofthat。GeneralButlerwasalawyerfromBoston，andbynomeansinclinedtoindulgethescruplesoftheMarylanderswhohadsoroughlytreatedhisfellow-citizensfromMassachusetts。ThetroopsdidthereforepassbyAnnapolis，muchtothedisgustoftheState。

Onthe27thofApril，GovernorHicks，havingnowhadasufficiencyofindividualresponsibility，summonedthelegislatureofwhichhehadexpressedsobadanopinion；butonthisoccasionheomittedtorepeatthatopinion，andsubmittedhisviewsinverypropertermstothewisdomofthesenatorsandrepresentatives。Heentertains，ashesays，anhonestconvictionthatthesafetyofMarylandliesinpreservinganeutralpositionbetweentheNorthandtheSouth。

Certainly，GovernorHicks，ifitwereonlypossible！Thelegislatureagainwenttoworktoprevent，ifitmightbeprevented，thepassageoftroopsthroughtheirState；butluckilyforthem，theyfailed。ThePresidentwasboundtodefendWashington，andtheMarylandersweredeniedtheirwishofhavingtheirownfieldsmadethefightinggroundofthecivilwar。

ThatwhichappearstometobethemostremarkablefeatureinallthisistheantagonismbetweenUnitedStateslawandindividualStatefeeling。ThroughthewholeproceedingtheGovernorandtheStateofMarylandseemedtohaveconsidereditquitereasonabletoopposetheconstitutionalpowerofthePresidentandhisgovernment。ItisarguedinallthespeechesandwrittendocumentsthatwereproducedinMarylandatthetime，thatMarylandwastruetotheUnion；andyetsheputherselfinoppositiontotheconstitutionalmilitarypowerofthePresident。CertainCommissionerswentfromtheStatelegislaturetoWashingtoninMay，andfromtheirreportitappearsthatthePresidenthadexpressedhimselfofopinionthatMarylandmightdothisorthat“aslongasshehadnottakenandwasnotabouttotakeahostileattitudetotheFederalgovernment！“FromwhichwearetogatherthatadenialofthatmilitarypowergiventothePresidentbytheConstitutionwasnotconsideredasanattitudehostiletotheFederalgovernment。Atanyrate，itwasdirectdisobediencetoFederallaw。IcannotbutrevertfromthistotheconditionoftheFugitiveSlaveLaw。Federallaw，andindeedtheoriginalconstitution，plainlydeclarethatfugitiveslavesshallbegivenupbythefree-soilStates。MassachusettsproclaimsherselftobespeciallyaFederallaw-lovingState。ButeverymaninMassachusettsknowsthatnojudge，nosheriff，nomagistrate，nopolicemaninthatStatewouldatthistime，orthen，whenthatcivilwarwasbeginning，havelentahandinanywaytotherenditionofafugitiveslave。TheFederallawrequirestheStatetogiveupthefugitive，buttheStatelawdoesnotrequirejudge，sheriff，magistrate，orpolicemantoengageinsuchwork，andnojudge，sherifformagistratewilldoso；consequentlythatFederallawisdeadinMassachusetts，asitisalsoineveryfree-soilState，——dead，exceptinasmuchastherewaslifeinittocreateillbloodaslongastheNorthandSouthremainedtogether，andwouldbelifeinitforthesameeffectiftheyshouldagainbebroughtunderthesameflag。

Onthe10thofMay，theMarylandlegislature，havingreceivedthereportoftheirCommissionersabovementioned，passedthefollowingresolution:——

“Whereas，thewaragainsttheConfederateStatesisunconstitutionalandrepugnanttocivilization，andwillresultinabloodyandshamefuloverthrowofourconstitution，andwhilerecognizingtheobligationsofMarylandtotheUnion，wesympathizewiththeSouthinthestrugglefortheirrights；forthesakeofhumanityweareforpeaceandreconciliation，andsolemnlyprotestagainstthiswar，andwilltakenopartinit。

“RESOLVED，ThatMarylandimploresthePresident，inthenameofGod，toceasethisunholywar，atleastuntilCongressassembles“——

aperiodofabovesixmonths。“ThatMarylanddesiresandconsentstotherecognitionoftheindependenceoftheConfederateStates。

ThemilitaryoccupationofMarylandisunconstitutional，andsheprotestsagainstit，thoughtheviolentinterferencewiththetransitoftheFederaltroopsisdiscountenanced。Thatthevindicationofherrightsbelefttotimeandreason，andthataconventionunderexistingcircumstancesisinexpedient。“FromwhichitisplainthatMarylandwouldhavesecededaseffectuallyasGeorgiaseceded，hadshenotbeenpreventedbytheinterpositionofWashingtonbetweenherandtheConfederateStates——thehappyintervention，seeingthatshehasthusbeensavedfrombecomingthebattle-groundofthecontest。Butthelegislaturehadtopayforitsrashness。Onthe13thofSeptemberthirteenofitsmemberswerearrested，aswerealsotwoeditorsofnewspaperspresumedtobesecessionists。AmemberofCongresswasalsoarrestedatthesametime，andacandidateforGovernorHicks\'splace，whobelongedtothesecessionistparty。Previously，inthelastdaysofJuneandbeginningofJuly，thechiefofthepoliceatBaltimoreandthemembersoftheBoardofPolicehadbeenarrestedbyGeneralBanks，whothenheldBaltimoreinhispower。

Ishouldbesorrytobeconstruedassayingthatrepublicaninstitutions，orwhatmaymoreproperlybecalleddemocraticinstitutions，havebeenbrokendownintheStatesofAmerica。Iamfarfromthinkingthattheyhavebrokendown。Takingthemandtheirworkasawhole，Ithinkthattheyhaveshownandstillshowvitalityofthebestorder。ButthewrittenConstitutionoftheUnitedStatesandoftheseveralStates，asbearinguponeachother，arenotequaltotherequirementsmadeuponthem。That，I

think，istheconclusiontowhichaspectatorshouldcome。Itisinthatdoctrineoffinalitythatourfriendshavebrokendown——adoctrinenotexpressedintheirconstitutions，andindeedexpresslydeniedintheConstitutionoftheUnitedStates，whichprovidesthemodeinwhichamendmentsshallbemade——butappearingplainlyenoughineverywordofself-gratulationwhichcomesfromthem。

Politicalfinalityhaseverprovedadelusion——ashastheideaoffinalityinallhumaninstitutions。IdonotdoubtbutthattherepublicanformofgovernmentwillremainandmakeprogressinNorthAmerica，butsuchprolongedexistenceandprogressmustbebasedonanacknowledgmentofthenecessityforchange，andmustmuchdependonthefacilitiesforchangewhichshallbeafforded。

IhavedescribedtheconditionofBaltimoreasitwasearlyinMay，1861。Ireachedthatcityjustsevenmonthslater，anditsconditionwasconsiderablyaltered。TherewasnoquestionthenwhethertroopsshouldpassthroughBaltimore，orbyanawkwardroundthroughAnnapolis，ornotpassatallthroughMaryland。

GeneralDix，whohadsucceededGeneralBanks，washoldingthecityinhisgrip，andmartiallawprevailed。Insuchtimesasthose，itwasbootlesstoinquireastothatpromisethatnotroopsshouldpasssouthwardthroughBaltimore。Whathavesuchassuranceseverbeenworthinsuchdays？BaltimorewasnowamilitarydepotinthehandsoftheNorthernarmy，andGeneralDixwasnotamantostandanytrifling。HedidmethehonortotakemetothetopofFederalHill，asuburbofthecity，onwhichhehadraisedgreatearthworksandplantedmightycannons，andbuilttentsandbarracksforhissoldiery，andtoshowmehowinstantaneouslyhecoulddestroythetownfromhisexaltedposition。“Thishillwasmadefortheverypurpose，“saidGeneralDix；andnodoubthethoughtso。Generals，whentheyhavefinepositionsandbiggunsandprostratepeoplelyingundertheirthumbs，areinclinedtothinkthatGod\'sprovidencehasspeciallyordainedthemandtheirpointsofvantage。

Itisagoodthinginthemindofageneralsocircumstancedthat200，000menshouldbemadesubjecttoadozenbigguns。Iconfessthattome，havinghadnomilitaryeducation，thematterappearedinadifferentlight，andIcouldnotworkupmyenthusiasmtoapitchwhichwouldhavebeensuitabletothegeneral\'scourtesy。

Thathill，onwhichmanyofthepoorofBaltimorehadlived，wasdesecratedinmyeyesbythosecolumbiads。Theneatearth-workswereugly，aslookeduponbyme；andthoughIregardedGeneralDixasenergetic，andnodoubtskillfulintheworkassignedtohim，I

couldnotsympathizewithhisexultation。

PreviouslytothedaysofsecessionBaltimorehadbeenguardedbyFortMcHenry，whichliesonaspitoflandrunningoutintothebayjustbelowthetown。HitherIwentwithGeneralDix，andheexplainedtomehowthecannonhadheretoforebeenpointedsolelytowardthesea；that，however，nowwasallchanged，andthemouthsofhisbombsandgreatartillerywereturnedalltheotherway。

Thecommandantofthefortwaswithus，andotherofficers，andtheyallspokeofthismartialtenureasagreatblessing。Hearingthem，onecouldhardlyfailtosupposethattheyhadlivedtheirforty，fifty，orsixtyyearsoflifeinfullrelianceonthepowersofamilitarydespotism。ButnotthelessweretheyAmericanrepublicans，who，twelvemonthssince，wouldhavedilatedontheall-sufficiencyoftheirrepublicaninstitutions，andontheabsenceofanymilitaryrestraintintheircountry，withthatpeculiarpridewhichcharacterizesthecitizensoftheStates。

Thereare，however，somelessonswhichmaybelearnedwithsingularrapidity！

SuchwasthestateofBaltimorewhenIvisitedthatcity。Ifound，nevertheless，thatcakesandalestillprevailedthere。Iaminclinedtothinkthatcakesandaleprevailmostfreelyintimesthatareperilous，andwhensourcesofsorrowabound。IhaveseenmorerecklessjovialityinatownstrickenbypestilencethanI

everencounteredelsewhere。TherewasGeneralDixseatedonFederalHillwithhiscannon；andthere，beneathhisartillery，weregentlemenhotlyprofessingthemselvestobesecessionists，menwhosesonsandbrotherswereintheSouthernarmy，andwomen，alas！

whosebrotherswouldbeinonearmy，andtheirsonsinanother。

Thatwasthepartofitwhichwasmostheartrendinginthisborderland。InNewEnglandandNewYorkmen\'smindsatanyratewerebentallinthesamedirection——asdoubtlesstheywerealsoinGeorgiaandAlabama。Butherefathersweredividedfromsons，andmothersfromdaughters。Terribletalesweretoldofthreatsutteredbyonememberofafamilyagainstanother。Oldtiesoffriendshipwerebrokenup。Societyhadsodivideditselfthatonesidecouldholdnotermsofcourtesywiththeother。“Whenthisisover，“onegentlemansaidtome，“everymaninBaltimorewillhaveaquarreltothedeathonhishandswithsomefriendwhomheusedtolove。“Thecomplaintsmadeonbothsideswereeagerandopen-

mouthedagainsttheother。

LateintheautumnanelectionforanewlegislatureoftheStatehadtakenplace，andthemembersreturnedwereallsupposedtobeUnionists。Thattheywerepreparedtosupportthegovernmentiscertain。Butnoknownorpresumedsecessionistwasallowedtovotewithoutfirsttakingtheoathofallegiance。Theelection，therefore，evenifthenumbersweretrue，cannotbelookeduponasafreeelection。Voterswerestoppedatthepollandnotallowedtovoteunlesstheywouldtakeanoathwhichwould，ontheirparts，undoubtedlyhavebeenfalse。ItwasalsodeclaredinBaltimorethatmenengagedtopromotetheNorthernpartywerepermittedtovotefiveorsixtimesover，andtheenormousnumberofvotespolledonthegovernmentsidegavesomecoloringtothestatement。

Atanyrate，anelectioncarriedunderGeneralDix\'sgunscannotberegardedasanopenelection。Itwasoutofthequestionthatanyelectiontakenundersuchcircumstancesshouldbeworthanythingasexpressingthemindsofthepeople。RedandwhitehadbeendeclaredtobethecolorsoftheConfederates，andredandwhitehadofcoursebecomethefavoritecolorsoftheBaltimoreladies。

Thenitwasgivenoutthatredandwhitewouldnotbeallowedinthestreets。Ladieswearingredandwhitewererequestedtoreturnhome。Childrendecoratedwithredandwhiteribbonswerestrippedoftheirbitsoffinery——muchtotheirinfantiledisgustanddismay。Ladieswouldputredandwhiteornamentsintheirwindows，andthepolicewouldinsistonthewithdrawalofthecolors。SuchwastheconditionofBaltimoreduringthepastwinter。

Neverthelesscakesandaleabounded；andthoughtherewasdeepgriefinthecity，andwailingintherecessesofmanyhouses，andafeelingthatthegoodtimesweregone，nevertoreturnwithinthedaysofmanyofthem，stillthereexistedanexcitementandaconsciousnessoftheimportanceofthecrisiswhichwasnotaltogetherunsatisfactory。Menandwomencanenduretoberuined，tobetornfromtheirfriends，tobeoverwhelmedwithavalanchesofmisfortune，betterthantheycanenduretobedull。

Baltimoreis，oratanyratewas，anaspiringcity，proudofitscommerceandproudofitssociety。IthasregardeditselfastheNewYorkoftheSouth，andtosomeextenthasforcedotherssotoregarditalso。InmanyrespectsitismorelikeanEnglishtownthanmostofitsTransatlanticbrethren，andthewaysofitsinhabitantsareEnglish。Inolddaysapackoffoxhoundswaskepthere——orindeedindaysthatarenotyetveryold，forIwastoldoftheirdoingsbyagentlemanwhohadlongbeenamemberofthehunt。Thecountrylooksasahuntingcountryshouldlook，whereasnomanthatevercrossedafieldafterapackofhoundswouldfeeltheslightestwishtoattemptthatprocessinNewEnglandorNewYork。ThereisinBaltimoreanoldinnwithanoldsign，standingatthecornerofEutawandFranklinStreets，justsuchasmaystillbeseeninthetownsofSomersetshire，andbeforeittherearetobeseenoldwagons，coveredandsoiledandbattered，abouttoreturnfromthecitytothecountry，justasthewagonsdoinourownagriculturalcounties。IhaveseennothingsothoroughlyEnglishinanyotherpartoftheUnion。

Butcanvas-backducksandterrapinsarethegreatgloriesofBaltimore。OfthenatureoftheformerbirdIbelievealltheworldknowssomething。Itisawildduckwhichobtainsthepeculiarityofitsflavorfromthewildceleryonwhichitfeeds。

ThiscelerygrowsontheChesapeakeBay，andIbelieveontheChesapeakeBayonly。Atanyrate，Baltimoreistheheadquartersofthecanvas-backs，anditisontheChesapeakeBaythattheyareshot。Iwaskindlyinvitedtogodownonashooting-party；butwhenIlearnedthatIshouldhavetoensconcemyselfaloneforhoursinawetwoodenboxonthewater\'sedge，waitingthereforthechanceofaducktocometome，Ideclined。Thefactofmyneverhavingasyetbeensuccessfulinshootingabirdofanykindconducedsomewhat，perhaps，tomydecision。Imustacknowledgethatthecanvas-backduckfullydeservesallthereputationithasacquired。Astotheterrapin，Ihavenotsomuchtosay。Theterrapinisasmallturtle，foundontheshoresofMarylandandVirginia，outofwhichaveryrichsoupismade。Itiscookedwithwinesandspices，andisservedintheshapeofahash，withheapsoflittlebonesmixedthroughit。Itisheldingreatrepute，andtheguestisexpectedasamatterofcoursetobehelpedtwice。

Themanwhodidnoteattwiceofterrapinwouldbeheldinsmallrepute，astheLondonerisheldwhoatacitybanquetdoesnotpartakeofboththickandthinturtle。Imust，however，confessthattheterrapinformehadnosurpassingcharms。

MarylandwassocalledfromHenriettaMaria，thewifeofCharlesI。，bywhichking，in1632，theterritorywasconcededtotheRomanCatholicLordBaltimore。ItwaschieflypeopledbyRomanCatholics，butIdonotthinkthatthereisnowanysuchspecialtyattachingtotheState。ThereareinittwoorthreeoldRomanCatholicfamilies，butthepeoplehavecomedownfromtheNorth，andhavenopeculiarreligioustendencies。SomeofLordBaltimore\'sdescendantsremainedintheStateuptothetimeoftheRevolution。FromBaltimoreIwentontoWashington。

ENDOFVOL。I。

NorthAmericaVolume2

byAnthonyTrollopeCONTENTSOFVOL。II。

CHAPTERI。

WashingtonCHAPTERII。

CongressCHAPTERIII。

TheCausesoftheWarCHAPTERIV。

WashingtontoSt。LouisCHAPTERV。

MissouriCHAPTERVI。

CairoandCampWoodCHAPTERVII。

TheArmyoftheNorthCHAPTERVIII。

BacktoBostonCHAPTERIX。

TheConstitutionoftheUnitedStatesCHAPTERX。

TheGovernmentCHAPTERXI。

TheLawCourtsandLawyersoftheUnitedStatesCHAPTERXII。

TheFinancialPositionCHAPTERXIII。

ThePost-officeCHAPTERXIV。

AmericanHotelsCHAPTERXV。

LiteratureCHAPTERXVI。

ConclusionNORTHAMERICA。

CHAPTER1。

WASHINGTON。

ThesiteofthepresentCityofWashingtonwaschosenwiththreespecialviews:firstly，thatbeingonthePotomacitmighthavethefulladvantageofwater-carriageandasea-port；secondly，thatitmightbesofarremovedfromthesea-boardastobesafefrominvasion；and，thirdly，thatitmightbecentralaliketoalltheStates。Itwaspresumed，whenWashingtonwasfounded，thatthesethreeadvantageswouldbesecuredbytheselectedposition。Asregardsthefirst，thePotomacaffordstothecitybutfewoftheadvantagesofasea-port。Shipscancomeup，butnotshipsoflargeburden。Theriverseemstohavedwindledsincethesitewaschosen，andatpresentitis，Ithink，evidentthatWashingtoncanneverbegreatinitsshipping。Statiobenefidacariniscanneverbeitsmotto。Asregardsthesecondpoint，singularlyenoughWashingtonistheonlycityoftheUnionthathasbeeninanenemy\'spossessionsincetheUnitedStatesbecameanation。Inthewarof1812itfellintoourhands，andweburnedit。Asregardsthethirdpoint，Washington，fromthelieoftheland，canhardlyhavebeensaidtobecentricalatanytime。Owingtotheirregularitiesofthecoastitisnoteasyofaccessbyrailwaysfromdifferentsides。

Baltimorewouldhavebeenfarbetter。Butasfaraswecannowsee，andaswellaswecannowjudge，Washingtonwillsoonbeonthebordersofthenationtowhichitbelongs，insteadofatitscenter。

Ifear，therefore，thatwemustacknowledgethatthesitechosenforhiscountry\'scapitalbyGeorgeWashingtonhasnotbeenfortunate。

Ihaveastrongidea，whichIexpressedbeforeinspeakingofthecapitaloftheCanadas，thatnomancanordainthatonsuchaspotshallbebuiltagreatandthrivingcity。Nomancansoordaineventhoughheleavebehindhim，aswasthecasewithWashington，aprestigesufficienttobindhissuccessorstohiswishes。ThepoliticalleadersofthecountryhavedonewhattheycouldforWashington。Theprideofthenationhasendeavoredtosustainthecharacterofitschosenmetropolis。Therehasbeennorival，solicitingfavoronthestrengthofothercharms。Thecountryhasallbeenagreedonthepointsincethefatherofthecountryfirstcommencedthework。FlorenceandRomeinItalyhaveeachtheirpretensions；butintheStatesnoothercityhasputitselfforwardforthehonorofentertainingCongress。AndyetWashingtonhasbeenafailure。Itiscommercethatmakesgreatcities，andcommercehasrefusedtobackthegeneral\'schoice。NewYorkandPhiladelphia，withoutanypoliticalpower，havebecomegreatamongthecitiesoftheearth。TheyarebeatenbynoneexceptbyLondonandParis。ButWashingtonisbutaragged，unfinishedcollectionofunbuiltbroadstreets，astothecompletionofwhichtherecannow，Iimagine，bebutlittlehope。

OfallplacesthatIknowitisthemostungainlyandmostunsatisfactory:IfearImustalsosaythemostpresumptuousinitspretensions。ThereisamapofWashingtonaccuratelylaiddown；andtakingthatmapwithhiminhisjourneyings，amanmaylosehimselfinthestreets，notasonelosesone\'sselfinLondon，betweenShoreditchandRussellSquare，butasonedoessointhedesertsoftheHolyLand，betweenEmmausandArimathea。Inthefirstplacenooneknowswheretheplacesare，orissureoftheirexistence，andthenbetweentheirpresumedlocalitiesthecountryiswild，trackless，unbridged，uninhabited，anddesolate。MassachusettsAvenuerunsthewholelengthofthecity，andisinsertedonthemapsasafull-blownstreet，aboutfourmilesinlength。Gothere，andyouwillfindyourselfnotonlyoutoftown，awayamongthefields，butyouwillfindyourselfbeyondthefields，inanuncultivated，undrainedwilderness。Tuckingyourtrowsersuptoyourkneesyouwillwadethroughthebogs，youwillloseyourselfamongrudehillocks，youwillbeoutofthereachofhumanity。TheunfinisheddomeoftheCapitolwillloombeforeyouinthedistance，andyouwillthinkthatyouapproachtheruinsofsomewesternPalmyra。Ifyouareasportsman，youwilldesiretoshootsnipewithinsightofthePresident\'shouse。ThereismuchunsettledlandwithintheStatesofAmerica，butIthinknonesodesolateinitsstateofnatureasthree-fourthsofthegroundonwhichissupposedtostandtheCityofWashington。

TheCityofWashingtonissomethingmorethanfourmileslong，andissomethingmorethantwomilesbroad。Thelandapportionedtoitisnearlyascompactasmaybe，anditexceedsinareathesizeofaparallelogramfourmileslongbytwobroad。Thesedimensionsareadequateforanoblecity，foracitytocontainamillionofinhabitants。ItisimpossibletostatewithaccuracytheactualpopulationofWashington，foritfluctuatesexceedingly。TheplaceisveryfullduringCongress，andveryemptyduringtherecess。BywhichImeanittobeunderstoodthatthosestreetswhichareblessedwithhousesarefullwhenCongressmeets。IdonotthinkthatCongressmakesmuchdifferencetoMassachusettsAvenue。I

believethatthecitynevercontainsasmanyaseightythousand，andthatitspermanentresidentsarelessthansixtythousand。

But，itwillbesaid，wasitnotwelltoprepareforagrowingcity？

IsitnottruethatLondonischokedbyitsownfatness，nothavingbeenendowedatitsbirthorduringitsgrowthwithpropermeansforaccommodatingitsownincreasingproportions？Wasitnotwelltolaydownfineavenuesandbroadstreets，sothatfuturecitizensmightfindacitywellpreparedtotheirhand？

Thereisnodoubtmuchinsuchanargument，butitscorrectnessmustbetestedbyitssuccess。Whenamanmarriesitiswellthatbeshouldmakeprovisionforacomingfamily。ButaBenedict，whoearlyinhiscareershallhavecarriedhisfriendswithconsiderableself-applausethroughhalfadozennurseries，andattheendoftwelveyearsshallstillbethefatherofonericketybaby，willincuracertainamountofridicule。Itisverywelltobepreparedforgoodfortune，butoneshouldlimitone\'spreparationwithinareasonablescope。Twomilesbyonemight，perhaps，havedonefortheskeletonsketchofanewcity。LessthanhalfthatwouldcontainmuchmorethanthepresentpopulationofWashington；andthereare，Ifear，fewtownsintheUnionsolittlelikelytoenjoyanyspeedyincrease。

ThreeavenuessweepthewholelengthofWashington:VirginiaAvenue，PennsylvaniaAvenue，andMassachusettsAvenue。ButPennsylvaniaAvenueistheonlyoneknowntoordinarymen，andthehalfofthatonlyissoknown。Thisavenueisthebackboneofthecity，andthosestreetswhicharereallyinhabitedclusterroundthathalfofitwhichrunswestwardfromtheCapitol。Theeasternend，runningfromthefrontoftheCapitol，isagainadesert。Theplanofthecityissomewhatcomplicated。Itmaytrulybecalled“amightymaze，butnotwithoutaplan。“TheCapitolwasintendedtobethecenterofthecity。Itfaceseastward，awayfromthePotomac——orratherfromthemainbranchofthePotomac，andalsounfortunatelyfromthemainbodyofthetown。Itturnsitsbackuponthechiefthoroughfare，upontheTreasurybuildings，anduponthePresident\'shouse，and，indeed，uponthewholeplace。Itwas，Isuppose，intendedthatthestreetstotheeastwardshouldbenobleandpopulous，buthithertotheyhavecometonothing。Thebuilding，therefore，iswrongsideforemost，andallmankindwhoenterit，Senators，Representatives，andjudgesincluded，goinatthebackdoor。OfcourseitisgenerallyknownthatintheCapitolisthechamberoftheSenate，thatoftheHouseofRepresentatives，andtheSupremeJudicialCourtoftheUnion。ItmaybesaidthattherearetwocentersinWashington，thisbeingoneandthePresident\'shousetheother。Atthesecentersthemainavenuesaresupposedtocrosseachother，whichavenuesarecalledbythenamesoftherespectiveStates。AttheCapitol，PennsylvaniaAvenue，NewJerseyAvenue，DelawareAvenue，andMarylandAvenueconverge。TheycomefromoneextremityofthecitytothesquareoftheCapitolononeside，andrunoutfromtheothersideofittotheotherextremityofthecity。PennsylvaniaAvenue，NewYorkAvenue，VermontAvenue，andConnecticutAvenuedothesameatwhatisgenerallycalledPresident\'sSquare。Intheory，oronpaper，thisseemstobeaclearandintelligiblearrangement；butitdoesnotworkwell。

Thesecenterdepotsarelargespaces，andconsequentlyoneportionofastreetisremovedaconsiderabledistancefromtheother。Itisasthoughthesamenameshouldbegiventotwostreets，oneofwhichenteredSt。James\'sParkatBuckinghamGate，whiletheotherstartedfromtheParkatMarlborough，House。Toinhabitantsthematterprobablyisnotofmuchmoment，asitiswellknownthatthisportionofsuchanavenueandthatportionofsuchanotheravenuearemerelymyths——unknownlandsawayinthewilds。Butastrangerfindshimselfinthepositionofbeingsentacrossthecountrykneedeepintothemud，wadingthroughsnipegrounds，lookingforcivilizationwherenoneexists。

Alltheseavenueshaveaslantingdirection。Theyaresoarrangedthatnoneofthemrunnorthandsouth，oreastandwest；butthestreets，socalled，allruninaccordancewiththepointsofthecompass。ThosefromeasttowestareAStreet，BStreet，CStreet，andsoon——countingthemawayfromtheCapitoloneachside，sothattherearetwoAstreetsandtwoBstreets。OnthemapthesestreetsrunuptoVStreet，bothrightandleft——VStreetNorthandVStreetSouth。ThosereallyknowntomankindareE，F，G，H，I，andK

StreetsNorth。ThenthosestreetswhichrunfromnorthtosoutharenumberedFirstStreet，SecondStreet，ThirdStreet，andsoon，oneachfrontoftheCapitol，runningtoTwenty-fourthorTwenty-fifthStreetoneachside。Notverymanyofthesehaveanyexistence，or，Imightperhapsmoreproperlysay，anyvitalityintheirexistence。

Suchistheplanofthecity，thatbeingthearrangementandthosethedimensionsintendedbytheoriginalarchitectsandfoundersofWashington；buttheinhabitantshavehithertoconfinedthemselvestoPennsylvaniaAvenueWest，andtothestreetsabuttingfromitorneartoit。Whateveraddressastrangermayreceive，howeverperplexingitmayseemtohim，hemaybesurethatthehouseindicatedisnearPennsylvaniaAvenue。Ifitbenot，Ishouldrecommendhimtopaynoattentiontothesummons。Eveninthosestreetswithwhichhewillbecomebestacquainted，thehousesarenotcontinuous。Therewillbeahouse，andthenablank；thentwohouses，andthenadoubleblank。Afterthatahutortwo，andthenprobablyanexcellent，roomy，handsomefamilymansion。Takenaltogether，Washingtonasacityismostunsatisfactory，andfallsmoregrievouslyshortofthethingattemptedthananyotherofthegreatundertakingsofwhichIhaveseenanythingintheStates。SanJose，thecapitaloftherepublicofCostaRica，inCentralAmerica，hasbeenpreparedandarrangedasanewcityinthesameway。ButevenSanJosecomesnearertowhatwasintendedthandoesWashington。

Formyself，Idonotbelieveincitiesmadeafterthisfashion。

Commerce，Ithink，mustselectthesiteofalllargecongregationsofmankind。Insomemysteriouswaysheascertainswhatshewants，andhavingacquiredthat，drawsmeninthousandsroundherproperties。Liverpool，NewYork，Lyons，Glasgow，Venice，Marseilles，Hamburg，Calcutta，Chicago，andLeghornhaveallbecomepopulous，andareorhavebeengreat，becausetradefoundthemtobeconvenientforitspurposes。TradeseemstohaveignoredWashingtonaltogether。Suchbeingthecase，theLegislatureandtheExecutiveofthecountrytogetherhavebeenunabletomakeofWashingtonanythingbetterthanastragglingcongregationofbuildingsinawilderness。WearenowtryingthesameexperimentatOttawa，inCanada，havingturnedourbackuponMontrealindudgeon。ThesiteofOttawaismoreinterestingthanthatofWashington，butIdoubtwhethertheexperimentwillbemoresuccessful。Anewtownforart，fashion，andpoliticshasbeenbuiltatMunich，andthereitseemstoanswertheexpectationofthebuilders；butatMunichthereisanoldcityaswell，andcommercehadalreadygotsomeconsiderableholdonthespotbeforethenewtownwasaddedtoit。

ThestreetsofWashington，suchasexist，areallbroad。Throughoutthetownthereareopenspaces——spaces，Imean，intendedtobeopenbytheplanlaiddownforthecity。Atthepresentmomentitisalmostallopenspace。Thereisalsoacertainnobilityabouttheproposeddimensionsoftheavenuesandsquares。Desirousofpraisingitinsomedegree，Icansaythatthedesignisgrand。Thethingdone，however，fallssoinfinitelyshortofthatdesign，thatnothingbutdisappointmentisfelt。AndIfearthatthereisnolook-outintothefuturewhichcanjustifyahopethatthedesignwillbefulfilled。Itisthereforeamelancholyplace。Thesocietyintowhichonefallsthereconsistsmostlyofpersonswhoarenotpermanentlyresidentinthecapital；butofthosewhowerepermanentresidentsIfoundnonewhospokeoftheircitywithaffection。ThemenandwomenofBostonthinkthatthesunshinesnowhereelse；andBostonCommonisverypleasant。TheNewYorkersbelieveinFifthAvenuewithanunswervingfaith；andFifthAvenueiscalculatedtoinspireafaith。PhiladelphiatoaPhiladelphianisthecenteroftheuniverse；andtheprogressofPhiladelphia，perhaps，justifiesthepartiality。ThesamethingmaybesaidofChicago，ofBuffalo，andofBaltimore。ButthesamethingcannotbesaidinanydegreeofWashington。Theywhobelongtoitturnuptheirnosesatit。

Theyfeelthattheylivesurroundedbyafailure。Itsgrandnamesareasyetfalse，andnoneoftheeffortsmadehavehithertobeensuccessful。Eveninwinter，whenCongressissitting，Washingtonismelancholy；butWashingtoninsummermustsurelybethesaddestspotonearth。

TherearesixprincipalpublicbuildingsinWashington，astowhichnoexpenseseemstohavebeenspared，andintheconstructionofwhichacertainamountofsuccesshasbeenobtained。Inmostofthesethissuccesshasbeenmoreorlessmarredbyanindependentdeviationfromrecognizedrulesofarchitecturaltaste。ThesearetheCapitol，thePost-office，thePatent-office，theTreasury，thePresident\'shouse，andtheSmithsonianInstitution。ThefivefirstareGrecian，andthelastinWashingtoniscalled——Romanesque。HadIbeenlefttoclassifyitbymyownunaidedlights，IshouldhavecalleditbastardGothic。

TheCapitolisbyfarthemostimposing；andthoughthereismuchaboutitwithwhichIcannotbutfindfault，itcertainlyisimposing。Thepresentbuildingwas，Ithink，commencedin1815，theformerCapitolhavingbeendestroyedbytheEnglishinthewarof1812-13。Itwasthenfinishedaccordingtotheoriginalplan，withafineporticoandwellproportionedpedimentaboveit——lookingtotheeast。Theouterflightofsteps，leadinguptothisfromtheeasternapproach，isgoodandinexcellenttaste。Theexpanseofthebuildingtotherightandleft，asthenarranged，waswellproportioned，and，asfaraswecannowjudge，thethenexistingdomewaswellproportionedalso。Asseenfromtheeasttheoriginalbuildingmusthavebeeninitselfveryfine。Thestoneisbeautiful，beingbrightalmostasmarble，andIdonotknowthattherewasanygreatarchitecturaldefecttooffendtheeye。Thefiguresinthepedimentaremean。ThereisnowintheCapitolagroupapparentlypreparedforapediment，whichisbynomeansmean。

Iwasinformedthattheywereintendedforthisposition；butthey，ontheotherband，aretoogoodforsuchaplace，andarealsotoonumerous。ThissetofstatuesisbyCrawford。Mostofthemarewellknown，andtheyareveryfine。TheynowstandwithintheoldchamberoftheRepresentativeHouse，andthepityisthat，ifelevatedtosuchapositionasthatindicated，theycanneverbereallyseen。TherearemodelsofthemallatWestPoint，andsomeofthemIhaveseenatotherplacesinmarble。TheHistoricalSociety，atNewYork，hasoneortwoofthem。InandaboutthefrontoftheCapitolthereareothereffortsofsculpture——imposingintheirsize，andassuming，ifnotaffecting，muchintheattitudeschosen。StatuaryatWashingtonrunstoomuchontwosubjects，whicharerepeatedperhapsalmostadnauseam:oneisthatofastiff，steady-looking，healthy，butuglyindividual，withasquarejawandbigjowl，whichrepresentsthegreatgeneral；hedoesnotprepossessthebeholder，becauseheappearstobethoroughlyillnatured。Andtheotherrepresentsamelancholy，weakfigurewithoutanyhair，butoftencoveredwithfeathers，andisintendedtotypifytheredIndian。TheredIndianisgenerallysupposedtobereceivingcomfort；butitismanifestthatheneverenjoysthecomfortministeredtohim。ThereisagiganticstatueofWashington，byGreenough，outinthegroundsinfrontofthebuilding。Thefigureisseatedandholdinguponeofitsarmstowardthecity。Thereisaboutitakindofweightymagnificence；butitisstiff，ungainly，andaltogetherwithoutlife。

Butthefrontoftheoriginalbuildingiscertainlygrand。Thearchitectwhodesigneditmusthavehadskill，taste，andnobilityofconception；buteventhisisspoiled，orratherwasted，bythefactthatthefrontismadetolookuponnothing，andisturnedfromthecity。Itisasthough，thefacadeoftheLondonPost-officehadbeenmadetofacetheGoldsmiths\'Hall。TheCapitolstandsuponthesideofahill，thefrontoccupyingamuchhigherpositionthantheback；consequentlytheywhoenteritfromtheback——andeverybodydoessoenterit——arefirstcalledontorisetothelevelofthelowerfloorbyastiffascentofexteriorsteps，whichareinnowaygrandorimposing，andthen，havingenteredbyameanbackdoor，areinstantlyobligedtoascendagainbyanotherflight——bystairssufficientlyappropriatetoabackentrance，butaltogetherunfittedforthechiefapproachtosuchabuilding。Itmay，ofcourse，besaidthatpersonswhoareparticularinsuchmattersshouldgoinatthefrontdoorandnotattheback；butonemusttakethesethingsasonefindsthem。TheentrancebywhichtheCapitolisapproachedissuchasIhavedescribed。Therearemeanlittlebrickchimneysatthelefthandasonewalksin，attachedtomodernbakeries，whichhavebeenconstructedinthebasementfortheuseofthesoldiers；

andthereisontheotherhandtheroadbywhichwagonsfindtheirwaytotheundergroundregionwithfuel，stationery，andothermattersdesiredbySenatorsandRepresentatives，andatpresentbybakersalso。

InspeakingofthefrontIhavespokenofitasitwasoriginallydesignedandbuilt。Sincethatperiodveryheavywingshavebeenaddedtothepile——wingssoheavythattheyareorseemtobemuchlargerthantheoriginalstructureitself。This，tomythinking，hasdestroyedthesymmetryofthewhole。Thewings，whichinthemselvesarebynomeansdevoidofbeauty，arejoinedtothecenterbypassagessonarrowthatfromexteriorpointsofviewthelightcanbeseenthroughthem。Thisrobsthemassofalloneness，ofallentiretyasawhole，andgivesascattered，stragglingappearance，wherethereshouldbealookofmassivenessandintegrity。Thedomealsohasbeenraised——adoubledrumhavingbeengiventoit。Thisisunfinished，andshouldnotthereforeyetbejudged；butIcannotthinkthattheincreasedheightwillbeanimprovement。This，again，tomyeyes，appearstobestragglingratherthanmassive。Atadistanceitcommandsattention；andtoonejourneyingthroughthedesertplacesofthecitygivesthatideaofPalmyrawhichIhavebeforementioned。

Nevertheless，andinspiteofallthatIhavesaid，Ihavehadpleasureinwalkingbackwardandforward，andthroughthegroundswhichliebeforetheeasternfrontoftheCapitol。Thespacefortheviewisample，andthethingtobeseenhaspointswhichareverygrand。IftheCapitolwerefinishedandallWashingtonwerebuiltaroundit，nomanwouldsaythatthehouseinwhichCongresssatdisgracedthecity。

Goingwest，butnotduewest，fromtheCapitol，PennsylvaniaAvenuestretchesinarightlinetotheTreasurychambers。Thedistanceisbeyondamile；andmensayscornfullythatthetwobuildingshavebeenputsofarapartinordertosavethesecretarieswhositinthebureausfromatoorapidinfluxofmembersofCongress。ThisstatementIbynomeansindorse；butitisundoubtedlythefactthatbothSenatorsandRepresentativesareverydiligentintheircallsupongentlemenhighinoffice。Ihavebeenpresentonsomesuchoccasions，andithasalwaysseemedtomeathatquestionsofpatronagehavebeenparamount。ThisreachofPennsylvaniaAvenueisthequarterforthebestshopsofWashington——thatistosay，thefrequentedsideofitisso，thatsidewhichisonyourrightasyouleavetheCapitol。Oftheothersidetheworldknowsnothing。Andverybadshopstheyare。IdoubtwhethertherebeanytownintheworldatallequalinimportancetoWashingtonwhichisinsuchrespectssoillprovided。Theshopsarebadanddear。InsayingthisIamguidedbytheopinionsofallwhomIheardspeakonthesubject。Thesamethingwastoldmeofthehotels。Hearingthatthecitywasveryfullatthetimeofmyvisit——fulltooverflowing——

Ihadobtainedprivaterooms，throughafriend，beforeIwentthere。HadInotdoneso，Imighthavelaininthestreets，orhavemadeonewiththreeorfourothersinasmallroomatsomethird-

rateinn。Therehadneverbeensogreatathronginthetown。Iamboundtosaythatmyfrienddidwellforme。IfoundmyselfputupatthehouseofoneWormley，acoloredman，inIStreet，towhoseattentionIcanrecommendanyEnglishmanwhomaychancetowantquartersinWashington。Hehasahotelononesideofthestreetandprivatelodging-housesontheother，inwhichIfoundmyselflocated。FromwhatIheardofthehotels，Iconceivedmyselftobegreatlyinluck。Willard\'sisthechiefofthese；andtheeverlastingcrowdandthrongofmenwithwhichthehallsandpassagesofthehousewerealwaysfullcertainlydidnotseemtopromiseeitherprivacyorcomfort。Butthenthereareplacesinwhichprivacyandcomfortarenotexpected——arehardlyevendesired——

andWashingtonisoneofthem。

ThePost-officeandthePatent-office，liealittleawayfromPennsylvaniaAvenueinIStreet，andareoppositetoeachother。

ThePost-officeiscertainlyaverygracefulbuilding。Itissquare，andhardlycanbesaidtohaveanysettledfrontoranygrandentrance。Itisnotapproachedbysteps，butstandsflushontheground，alikeoneachofthefoursides。ItisornamentedwithCorinthianpilasters，butisnotover-ornamented。Itiscertainlyastructurecreditabletoanycity。Thestreetsarounditareallunfinished；anditisapproachedthroughseasofmudandsloughsofdespond，whichhavebeencontrived，asIimagine，tolessen，ifpossible，thecrowdofcallers，andlighteninthiswaytheovertaskedofficialswithin。Thatsidebywhichthepublicingeneralweresupposedtoapproachwas，duringmysojourn，alwaysguardedbyvastmountainsofflourbarrels。Lookingupatthewindowsofthebuilding，Iperceivedalsothatbarrelswerepiledwithin，andthenIknewthatthePost-officehadbecomeaprovisiondepotforthearmy。Theofficialarrangementshereforthepublicweresobadastobeabsolutelybarbarous。Ifeelsomeremorseinsayingthis，forIwasmyselftreatedwiththeutmostcourtesybygentlemenholdinghighpositionsintheoffice，towhichIwasspeciallyattractedbymyownconnectionwiththepost-officeinEngland。ButIdonotthinkthatsuchcourtesyshouldhindermefromtellingwhatIsawthatwasbad，seeingthatitwouldnothindermefromtellingwhatIsawthatwasgood。InWashingtonthereisbutonepost-office。Therearenoironpillarsorwaysideletter-boxes，asaretobefoundinothertownsoftheUnion——nosubsidiaryofficesatwhichstampscanbeboughtandlettersposted。

Thedistancesofthecityareverygreat，themeansoftransitthroughthecityverylimited，thedirtofthecitywaysunrivaledindepthandtenacity，andyetthereisbutonepost-office。Noristhereanyestablishedsystemofletter-carriers。Tothosewhodesireitlettersarebroughtoutanddeliveredbycarriers，whochargeaseparateporterageforthatservice；buttheruleisthatlettersshouldbedeliveredfromthewindow。Forstrangersthisisofcourseanecessityoftheirposition；andIfoundthat，whenonceIhadleftinstructionthatmylettersshouldbedelivered，thoseinstructions，werecarefullyfollowed。Indeed，nothingcouldexceedthecivilityoftheofficialswithin；butsoalsonothingcanexceedthebarbarityofthearrangementswithout。ThepurchaseofstampsI

foundtobeutterlyimpracticable。Theyweresoldatawindowinacorner，atwhichnewspaperswerealsodelivered，towhichtherewasnoregularingressandfromwhichtherewasnoegress，itwouldgenerallybedeeplysurroundedbyacrowdofmuddysoldiers，whowouldwaittherepatientlytilltimeshouldenablethemtoapproachthewindow。Thedeliveryofletterswasalmostmoretedious，thoughinthattherewasamethod。Theaspirantsstoodinalongline，encue，aswearetoldbyCarlylethatthebread-seekersusedtoapproachthebakers\'shopsatParisduringtheRevolution。This“cue“wouldsometimesprojectoutintothestreet。Theworkinsidewasdoneveryslowly。Theclerkhadnofacility，byuseofadeskorotherwise，forrunningthroughthelettersundertheinitialsdenominated，butturnedletterbyletterthroughhishand。Toonequestioneroutoftenwouldaletterbegiven。ItnodoubtmaybesaidinexcuseforthisthatthepresenceofthearmyroundWashingtoncaused，atthatperiod，specialinconvenience；andthatpleashouldofcoursebetaken，wereitnotthataverytriflingalterationinthemanagementwithinwouldhaveremediedalltheinconvenience。Asabuilding，theWashingtonPost-officeisverygood；asthecenterofamostcomplicatedanddifficultdepartment，Ibelieveittobewellmanaged；butasregardsthespecialaccommodationgivenbyittothecityinwhichitstands，muchcannot，Ithink，besaidinitsfavor。

Oppositetothatwhichis，Ipresume，thebackofthePost-office，standsthePatent-office。Thisalsoisagrandbuilding，withafineporticoofDoricpillarsateachofitsthreefronts。Theseareapproachedbyflightsofsteps，moregratifyingtotheeyethantothelegs。Thewholestructureismassiveandgrand，and，ifthestreetsrounditwerefinished，wouldbeimposing。Theutilitarianspiritofthenationhas，however，donemuchtowardmarringtheappearanceofthebuilding，bypiercingitwithwindowsaltogetherunsuitedtoit，bothinnumberandsize。Thewalls，evenundertheporticoes，havebeensopierced，inorderthatthewholespacemightbeutilizedwithoutlossoflight；andtheeffectisverymean。Thewindowsaresmall，andwithoutornament——somethinglikeaLondonwindowofthetimeofGeorgeIII。TheeffectproducedbyadozensuchatthebackofanobleDoricporch，lookingdownamongthepillars，maybeimagined。

IntheinteriorofthisbuildingtheMinisteroftheInteriorholdshiscourt，and，ofcourse，alsotheCommissionersofPatents。Hereis，inaccordancewiththenameofthebuilding，amuseumofmodelsofallpatentstakenout。Iwanderedthroughit，gazingwithlistlesseyenowuponthisandnowuponthat；buttome，inmyignorance，itwasnobetterthanalargetoy-shop。WhenIsawanancient，dustywhitehat，withsomepeculiarappendagetoitwhichwasunintelligible，itwasnomoretomethananyotheroldwhitehat。ButhadIbeenamanofscience，whatataleitmighthavetold！WanderingaboutthroughthePatent-officeIalsofoundahospitalforsoldiers。ABritishofficerwaswithmewhopronouncedittobe，initskind，verygood。Atanyrateitwassweet，airy，andlarge。Inthesedaysthesoldiershadgotholdofeverything。

TheTreasurychambersisasyetanunfinishedbuilding。Thefronttothesouthhasbeencompleted，butthattothenorthhasnotbeenbuilt。HereatthenorthstandsasyettheoldSecretaryofState\'soffice。Thisistocomedown，andtheSecretaryofStateistobelocatedinthenewbuilding，whichwillbeaddedtotheTreasury。

Thisedificewillprobablystrikestrangersmoreforciblythananyotherinthetown，bothfromitspositionandfromitsowncharacter。ItStandswithitssidetoPennsylvaniaAvenue，buttheavenuehere，hasturnedround，andrunsduenorthandsouth，havingtakenatwist，soastomakewayfortheTreasuryandforthePresident\'shouse，throughbothofwhichitmustrunhaditbeencarriedstraightonthroughout。Thesepublicofficesstandwiththeirsidetothestreet，andthewholelengthisornamentedwithanexteriorrowofIoniccolumnsraisedhighabovethefootway。Thisisperhapstheprettiestthinginthecity，andwhenthefronttothenorthhasbeencompleted，theeffectwillbestillbetter。Thegranitemonolithswhichhavebeenused，andwhicharetobeused，inthisbuildingareverymassive。Asoneentersbythestepstothesouththerearetwoflatstones，oneoneachsideoftheascent，thesurfaceofeachofwhichisabouttwentyfeetbyeighteen。Thecolumnsare，Ithink，allmonoliths。Ofthosewhicharestilltobeerected，andwhichnowlieaboutintheneighboringstreets，I

measuredoneortwo——onewhichwasstillintheroughIfoundtobethirty-twofeetlongbyfivefeetbroad，andfourandahalfdeep。

ThesegraniteblockshavebeenbroughttoWashingtonfromtheStateofMaine。Thefinishedfrontofthisbuilding，lookingdowntothePotomac，isverygood；buttomyeyesthisalsohasbeenmuchinjuredbytherowsofwindowswhichlookoutfromthebuildingintothespaceoftheportico。

ThePresident\'shouse——ortheWhiteHouseasitisnowcalledalltheworldover——isahandsomemansionfittedforthechiefofficerofagreatrepublic，andnothingmore。IthinkImaysaythatwehaveprivatehousesinLondonconsiderablylarger。Itisneatandpretty，andwithallitsimmediateoutsidebelongingscallsdownnoadversecriticism。Itfacesontoasmallgarden，whichseemstobealwaysaccessibletothepublic，andopensoutuponthateverlastingPennsylvaniaAvenue，whichhasnowmadeanotherturn。HereinfrontoftheWhiteHouseisPresident\'sSquare，asitisgenerallycalled。