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shesmiled，andinhernativelanguagesaidthatshehadnoSaxon。
OnmytellingherinWelshthatIwascometoseethePistyllshesmiledagain，andsaidthatIwaswelcome，thentakingmeroundthehouse，shepointedtoapathandbademefollowit。Ifollowedthepathwhichleddownwardtoatinybridgeofplanks，alittlewaybelowthefall。Iadvancedtothemiddleofthebridge，thenturningtothewest，lookedatthewonderfulobjectbeforeme。
TherearemanyremarkablecataractsinBritainandtheneighbouringisles，eventhelittleCelticIsleofManhasitsremarkablewaterfall；butthisRhyadr，thegrandcataractofNorthWales，farexceedsthemallinaltitudeandbeauty，thoughitisinferiortoseveraloftheminthevolumeofitsflood。Ineversawwaterfallingsogracefully，somuchlikethinbeautifulthreads，ashere。Yeteventhiscataracthasitsblemish。Whatbeautifulobjecthasnotsomethingwhichmoreorlessmarsitsloveliness？
Thereisanuglyblackbridgeorsemi—circleofrock，abouttwofeetindiameterandabouttwentyfeethigh，whichrisessomelittlewaybelowit，andunderwhichthewater，afterreachingthebottom，passes，whichinterceptsthesight，andpreventsitfromtakinginthewholefallatonce。Thisunsightlyobjecthasstoodwhereitnowstandssincethedayofcreation，andwillprobablyremaintheretothedayofjudgment。Itwouldbeadesecrationofnaturetoremoveitbyart，butnoonecouldregretifnatureinoneofherfloodsweretosweepitaway。
AsIwasstandingontheplanksawomanplainlybutneatlydressedcamefromthehouse。SheaddressedmeinveryimperfectEnglish，sayingthatshewasthemistressofthehouseandshouldbehappytoshowmeabout。Ithankedherforheroffer，andtoldherthatshemightspeakWelsh，whereuponshelookedglad，andsaidinthattonguethatshecouldspeakWelshmuchbetterthanSaesneg。Shetookmebyawindingpathupasteepbankonthesouthernsideofthefalltoasmallplateau，andtoldmethatwasthebestplacetoseethePistyllfrom。Ididnotthinkso，forwewerenowsonearthatwewerealmostblindedbythespray，though，itistrue，thesemicircleofrocknolongerimpededthesight；thisobjectwenowsawnearlylaterallyrisinguplikeaspectralarch，sprayandfoamaboveit，andwaterrushingbelow。"Thatisabridgeratherforysprydoedd（9）topassoverthanmen，"saidI。
"Itis，"saidthewoman；"butIoncesawamanpassoverit。"
"Howdidhegetup？"saidI。"Thesidesarequitesteepandslippery。"
"Hewriggledtothesideslikeallysowen，（10）tillhegottothetop，whenhestooduprightforaminute，andthensliddownontheotherside。"
"Washeanyonefromtheseparts？"saidI。
"Hewasnot。Hewasadyndieithr，aRussian；oneofthosewithwhomwearenowatwar。"
"Wasthereasmuchwatertumblingthenasnow？"
"More，fortherehadfallenmorerain。"
"Isupposethetorrentissometimesverydreadful？"saidI。
"Itisindeed，especiallyinwinter；foritisthenlikeasea，androarslikethunderoramadbull。"
AfterIhadseenallIwishedofthecataract，thewomanaskedmetocometothehouseandtakesomerefreshment。Ifollowedhertoaneatlittleroomwhereshemademesitdownandhandedmeabowlofbutter—milk。Onthetablewasabookinwhichshetoldmeitwascustomaryforindividualswhovisitedthecataracttoinserttheirnames。Itookupthebookwhichcontainedanumberofnamesmingledhereandtherewithpiecesofpoetry。AmongstthesecompositionswasaWelshenglynontheRhyadr，which，thoughincorrectinitsprosody，Ithoughtstirringandgrand。Icopiedit，andsubjoinitwithatranslationwhichImadeonthespot。
"Crychiawg，ewynawganian—ywyRhyadrYnrhuomaltaran；
Colofnodwr，gloyw—dwrglan，Gorwyllt，unlliwagarian。"
Foamingandfrothingfrommountainousheight，RoaringlikethundertheRhyadrfalls；
Thoughitssilverysplendourtheeyemaydelight，Itsfurytheheartofthebravestappals。
CHAPTERLXXI
WildMoors—TheGuide—ScientificDiscourse—TheLandofArthur—TheUmbrella—ArrivalatBala。
WHENIhadrestedmyselfandfinishedthebuttermilk，Igotup，andmakingthegoodwomanasmallcompensationforhercivility，inquiredifIcouldgettoBalawithoutreturningtoLlanRhyadr。
"Ohyes，"saidshe，"ifyoucrossthehillsforaboutfivemilesyouwillfindyourselfuponaroadwhichwilltakeyoustraighttoBala。"
"Isthereanyonehere，"saidI，"whowillguidemeoverthehills，providedIpayhimforhistrouble？"
"Ohyes，"saidshe，"Iknowonewhowillbehappytoguideyouwhetheryoupayhimornot。"
Shewentoutandpresentlyreturnedwithamanaboutthirty—five，stoutandwell—looking，anddressedinawaggoner’sfrock。
"There，"saidshe，"thisisthemantoshowyouoverthehills；fewknowthepathsbetter。"
Ithankedher，andtellingthemanIwasready，badehimleadtheway。Wesetout，thetwodogsofwhichIhavespokenattendingus，andseeminglyverygladtogo。Weascendedthesideofthehog—
backedhilltothenorthoftheRhyadr。Wewereabouttwentyminutesingettingtothetop，closetowhichstoodastoneorpieceofrock，verymuchresemblingachurchaltar，andaboutthesizeofone。Wewerenowonanextensivemooryelevation，havingthebrookwhichformstheRhyadralittlewayonourleft。Wewentnearlyduewest，followingnopath，forpaththerewasnone，butkeepingnearthebrook。Sometimeswecrossedwater—courseswhichemptiedtheirtributeintothebrook，andeverynowandthenascendedanddescendedhillockscoveredwithgorseandwhin。AfteralittletimeIenteredintoconversationwithmyguide。HehadnotawordofEnglish。
"Areyoumarried？"saidI。
"IntruthIam，sir。"
"Whatfamilyhaveyou？"
"Ihaveadaughter。"
"Wheredoyoulive？"
"AtthehouseoftheRhyadr。"
"Isupposeyoulivethereasservant？"
"No，sir，Ilivethereasmaster。"
"IsthegoodwomanIsawthereyourwife？"
"Intruth，sir，sheis。"
"AndtheyounggirlIsawyourdaughter？"
"Yes，sir，sheismydaughter。"
"Andhowcamethegoodwomannottotellmeyouwereherhusband？"
"Isuppose，sir，youdidnotaskwhoIwas，andshethoughtyoudidnotcaretoknow。"
"Butcanyoubesparedfromhome？"
"Ohyes，sir，Iwasnotwantedathome。"
"Whatbusinessareyou？"
"Iamafarmer，sir。"
"Asheepfarmer？"
"Yes，sir。"
"Whoisyourlandlord。"
"SirWatkin。"
"Well，itwasverykindofyoutocomewithme。"
"Notatall，sir；Iwasgladtocomewithyou，forweareverylonesomeatRhyadr，exceptduringafewweeksinthesummer，whenthegentrycometoseethePistyll。Moreover，Ihavesheeplyingaboutherewhichneedtobelookedatnowandthen，andbycominghitherwithyouIshallhaveanopportunityofseeingthem。"
Wefrequentlypassedsheepfeedingtogetherinsmallnumbers。Intwoorthreeinstancesmyguidesingledoutindividuals，caughtthem，andplacingtheirheadsbetweenhiskneesexaminedtheinsidesoftheireyelids，inordertolearnbytheircolourwhetherornottheywereinfectedwiththepwdormoordisorder。Wehadsomediscourseaboutthatmalady。Atlastheaskedmeiftherewasaremedyforit。
"Ohyes，"saidI；"adecoctionofhoarhound。"
"Whatishoarhound？"saidhe。
"LlwydyCwn，"saidI。"Poursomeofthatdownthesheep’sthroattwiceaday，bymeansofahorn，andthesheepwillrecover，forthebitterness，doyousee，willdestroytheworm（11）intheliver，whichlearnedmensayisthecauseofthedisorder。"
Weleftthebrookonourlefthandandpassedbysomeruinedwallswhichmyguideinformedmehadoncebelongedtohousesbutwerenowusedassheepfolds。Afterwalkingseveralmiles，accordingtomycomputation，webegantoascendaconsiderableelevationcoveredwithbrownheathandling。Aswewentonthedogsfrequentlyputupabirdofablackcolour，whichflewawaywithasharpwhirr。
"Whatbirdisthat？"saidI。
"Ceiliogygrug，thecockoftheheath，"repliedmyguide。"Itissaidtobeverygoodeating，butIhavenevertastedit。Theceiliogygrugisnotfoodforthelikeofme。ItgoestofeedtherichSaxonsinCaerLudd。"
Wereachedthetopoftheelevation。
"Yonder，"saidmyguide，pointingtoawhitebareplaceagreatwayofftothewest，"isBalaroad。"
"ThenIwillnottroubleyoutogoanyfurther，"saidI；"Icanfindmywaythither。"
"No，youcouldnot，"saidmyguide；"ifyouweretomakestraig
