Wild Wales

第20章

Iopenedthedoorandsawalittlegirl。"Haveyouanywater?"

saidI。

"No,"saidthechild,"butIhavethis,"andshebroughtmesomebutter—milkinabasin。Ijusttastedit,gavethechildapennyandblessedher。

"Oesgenochtad?"

"No,"saidshe;"butIhaveamam。"Tadinmam;blessedsounds;inalllanguagesexpressingthesameblessedthings。

AfterwalkingforsomehoursIsawatallbluehillinthefardistancebeforeme。"Whatisthenameofthathill?"saidItoawomanwhomImet。

"PenCaerGybi,"shereplied。

SoonafterIcametoavillageneartoarockygully。Oninquiringthenameofthevillage,IwastolditwasLlanyrAfon,orthechurchoftheriver。Ipassedon;thecountrywasneithergrandnorpretty—itexhibitedakindofwildness,however,whichdidnotfailtointerestme—therewerestones,rocksandfurzeinabundance。Turningroundthecornerofahill,Iobservedthroughthemistsofevening,whichbegantogatheraboutme,whatseemedtoberatheragenteelhouseontheroadside;onmyleft,andalittlewaybehinditastrangekindofmonticle,onwhichIthoughtIobservedtalluprightstones。Quickeningmypace,Isooncameparallelwiththehouse,whichasIdrewnigh,ceasedtolooklikeagenteelhouse,andexhibitedanappearanceofgreatdesolation。

Itwasawhite,orrathergreystructureofsomeantiquity。Itwasevidentlyusedasafarm—house,fortherewasayardadjoiningtoit,inwhichwerestacksandagriculturalimplements。Observingtwomenintheyard,Iwentin。Theywererespectable,farm—

lookingmen,betweenfortyandfifty;onehadonacoatandhat,theotheracapandjacket。"Goodevening,"IsaidinWelsh。

"Goodevening,"theyrepliedinthesamelanguage,lookinginquiringlyatme。

"Whatisthenameofthisplace?"saidI。

"ItiscalledTygwyn,"saidthemanofthehat。

"Onaccountofitscolour,Isuppose?"saidI。

"Justso,"saidthemanofthehat。

"Itlooksold,"saidI。

"Anditisold,"hereplied。"InthetimeofthePapistsitwasoneoftheirchapels。"

"Doesitbelongtoyou?"Idemanded。

"Ohno,itbelongstooneMrSparrowfromLiverpool。Iamhisbailiff,andthismanisacarpenterwhoisheredoingajobforhim。"

Hereensuedapause,whichwasbrokenbythemanofthehatsayinginEnglish,tothemanofthecap:

"Whocanthisstrangefellowbe?hehasnotawordofEnglish,andthoughhespeaksWelshhisWelshsoundsverydifferentfromours。

Whocanhebe?"

"IamsureIdon’tknow,"saidtheother。

"Iknowwhoheis,"saidthefirst,"hecomesfromLlydaw,orArmorica,whichwaspeopledfromBritainestalom,andwhereIamtoldtherealoldWelshlanguageisstillspoken。"

"IthinkIheardyoumentionthewordLlydaw?"saidI,tothemanofthehat。

"Ah,"saidthemanofthehat,speakingWelsh,"Iwasrightafterall;oh,IcouldhaveswornyouwereLlydaweg。Well,howarethedescendantsoftheancientBritonsgettingoninLlydaw?"

"Theyaregettingontolerablywell,"saidI,"whenIlastsawthem,thoughallthingsdonotgoexactlyastheycouldwish。"

"Ofcoursenot,"saidheofthehat。"Wetoohavemuchtocomplainofhere;thelandsarealmostentirelytakenpossessionofbySaxons,whereveryougoyouwillfindthemsettled,andaSaxonbirdoftheroofmustbuilditsnestinGwyndy。"

"YoucallasparrowinyourWelshabirdoftheroof,doyounot?"

saidI。

"Wedo,"saidheofthehat。"YouspeakWelshverywellconsideringyouwerenotborninWales。ItisreallysurprisingthatthemenofLlydawshouldspeaktheiaithsopureastheydo。"

"TheWelshwhentheywentoverthere,"saidI,"tookeffectualmeansthattheirdescendantsshouldspeakgoodWelsh,ifalltalesbetrue。"

"Whatmeans?"saidheofthehat。

"Why,"saidI;"afterconqueringthecountrytheyputallthementodeath,andmarriedthewomen,butbeforeachildwasborntheycutoutallthewomen’stongues,sothattheonlylanguagethechildrenheardwhentheywerebornwaspureCumraeg。Whatdoyouthinkofthat?"

"Why,thatitwasacutetrick,"saidheofthehat。

"AmoreclevertrickIneverheard,"saidthemanofthecap。

"HaveyouanymemorialsintheneighbourhoodoftheoldWelsh?"

saidI。

"Whatdoyoumean?"saidthemanofthehat。

"AnyaltarsoftheDruids?"saidI;"anystonetables?"

"None,"saidthemanofthehat。

"Whatmaythosestonesbe?"saidI,pointingtothestoneswhichhadstruckmyattention。

"Merecommonrocks,"saidtheman。

"MayIgoandexaminethem?"saidI。

"Ohyes!"saidheofthehat,"andwewillgowithyou。"

Wewenttothestones,whichwereindeedcommonrocks,andwhichwhenIreachedthempresentedquiteadifferentappearancefromthatwhichtheypresentedtomyeyewhenIviewedthemfromafar。

"AretheremanyaltarsoftheDruidsinLlydaw?"saidthemanofthehat。

"Plenty,"saidI,"butthosealtarsareolderthanthetimeoftheWelshcolonists,andwereerectedbytheoldGauls。"

"Well,"saidthemanofthecap,"IamgladIhaveseenthemanofLlydaw。"

"WhomdoyoucallamanofLlydaw?"saidI。

"Whombutyourself?"saidheofthehat。

"IamnotamanofLlydaw,"saidIinEnglish,"butNorfolk,wherethepeopleeatthebestdumplingsintheworld,andspeakthepurestEnglish。Nowathousandthanksforyourcivility。Iwouldhavesomemorechatwithyou,butnightiscomingon,andIamboundtoHolyhead。"

Thenleavingthemenstaringafterme,IbentmystepstowardsHolyhead。

IpassedbyaplacecalledLlansomething,standinglonelyonitshill。Thecountryroundlookedsadanddesolate。ItistruenighthadcomeonwhenIsawit。

OnIhurried。Thevoicesofchildrensoundedsweetlyatadistanceacrossthewildchampaignonmyleft。

Itgrewdarkeranddarker。OnIhurriedalongtheroad;atlastI

cametolone,lordlygroves。Onmyrightwasanopengateandalodge。Iwentuptothelodge。Thedoorwasopen,andinalittleroomIbeheldanice—lookingoldladysittingbyatable,onwhichstoodalightedcandle,withhereyesfixedonalargebook。

"Excuseme,"saidI;"butwhoownsthisproperty?"

Theoldladylookedupfromherbook,whichappearedtobeaBible,withouttheslightestsurprise,thoughIcertainlycameuponherunawares,andanswered:

"MrJohnWynn。"

Ishortlypassedthroughalargevillage,orrathertown,thenameofwhichIdidnotlearn。Ithenwentonforamileortwo,andsawaredlightatsomedistance。Theroadlednearlyuptoit,andthendivergedtowardsthenorth。LeavingtheroadImadetowardsthelightbyalane,andsooncametoarailroadstation。

"Youwon’thavelongtowait,sir,"saidaman,"thetraintoHolyheadwillbeherepresently。"

"HowfarisittoHolyhead?"saidI。

"Twomiles,sir,andthefareisonlysixpence。"

"Idespiserailroads,"saidI,"andthosewhotravelbythem,"andwithoutwaitingforananswerreturnedtotheroad。PresentlyI

heardthetrain—itstoppedforaminuteatthestation,andthencontinuingitscoursepassedmeonmylefthand,voidingfiercesparks,andmakingaterriblenoise—theroadwasamelancholyone;myfootstepssoundedhollowuponit。Iseemedtobeitsonlytraveller—awallextendedforalong,longwayonmyleft。AtlengthIcametoaturnpike。Ifeltdesolateandwishedtospeaktosomebody。Itappedatthewindow,atwhichtherewasalight;awomanopenedit。"HowfartoHolyhead?"saidIinEnglish。

"DimSaesneg,"saidthewoman。

IrepeatedmyquestioninWelsh。

"Twomiles,"saidshe。

"StilltwomilestoHolyheadbytheroad,"thoughtI。"Nosda,"

saidItothewomanandspedalong。AtlengthIsawwateronmyright,seeminglyakindofbay,andpresentlyamelancholyship。I

doubledmypace,whichwasbeforetolerablyquick,andsoonsawanoble—lookingedificeonmyleft,brilliantlylightedup。"Whatacapitalinnthatwouldmake,"saidI,lookingatitwistfully,asI

passedit。PresentlyIfoundmyselfinthemidstofapoor,dull,ill—lightedtown。

"Whereistheinn?"saidItoaman。

"Theinn,sir;youhavepassedit。Theinnisyonder,"hecontinued,pointingtowardsthenoble—lookingedifice。

"What,isthattheinn?"saidI。

"Yes,sir,therailroadhotel—andafirst—ratehotelitis。"

"Andaretherenootherinns?"

"Yes,buttheyareallpoorplaces。Nogentputsupatthem—allthegentsbytherailroadputupattherailroadhotel。"

WhatwasItodo?afterturningupmynoseattherailroad,wasI

toputupatitshotel?Surelytodosowouldbehardlyactingwithconsistency。"OughtInotrathertogotosomepublic—house,frequentedbycaptainsoffishingsmacks,andbeputinabedafoottooshortforme,"saidI,asIreflectedonmylastnight’scouchatMrPritchard’s。"No,thatwon’tdo—Ishallgotothehotel,Ihavemoneyinmypocket,andapersonwithmoneyinhispockethassurelyarighttobeinconsistentifhepleases。"

SoIturnedbackandenteredtherailroadhotelwithloftyportandwithsoundingstep,forIhadtwelvesovereignsinmypocket,besidesahalfone,andsomeloosesilver,andfearednottoencounterthegazeofanywaiterorlandlordintheland。"Sendboots!"Iroaredtothewaiter,asIflungmyselfdowninanarm—

chairinamagnificentcoffee—room。"Whatthedeuceareyoustaringat?sendbootscan’tyou,andaskwhatIcanhavefordinner。"

"Yes,sir,"saidthewaiter,andwithalowbowdeparted。

"Thesebootsareratherdusty,"saidtheboots,agrey—haired,venerable—lookingman,afterhehadtakenoffmythick,solid,square—toedboots。"Isupposeyoucamewalkingfromtherailroad?"

"Confoundtherailroad!"saidI。"IcamewalkingfromBangor。I

wouldhaveyouknowthatIhavemoneyinmypocket,andcanaffordtowalk。Iamfondofthebeautiesofnature;nowitisimpossibletoseemuchofthebeautiesofnatureunlessyouwalk。Iamlikewisefondofpoetry,andtakeespecialdelightininspectingthebirth—placesandhauntsofpoets。ItisbecauseIamfondofpoetry,poetsandtheirhaunts,thatIamcometoAnglesey。

Angleseydoesnotaboundinthebeautiesofnature,butthereneverwassuchaplaceforpoets;youmeetapoet,orthebirth—placeofapoet,everywhere。"

"DidyourhonoureverhearofGronwyOwen?"saidtheoldman。

"Ihave,"Ireplied,"andyesterdayIvisitedhisbirth—place;soyouhaveheardofGronwyOwen?"

"Heardofhim,yourhonour;yes,andreadhisworks。That’CowyddyFarn’ofhisisawonderfulpoem。"

"Yousayright,"saidI;"the’CowyddofJudgment’containssomeofthefinestthingseverwritten—thatdescriptionofthetopplingdownofthetopcragofSnowdon,atthedayofJudgment,beatsanythinginHomer。"

"ThentherewasLewisMorris,yourhonour,"saidtheoldman,"whogaveGronwyhiseducationandwrote’TheLassesofMeirion’—and—

"

"And’TheCowyddtotheSnail,’"saidI,interruptinghim—"awonderfulmanhewas。"

"Iamrejoicedtoseeyourhonourinourhouse,"saidboots;"I

neversawanEnglishgentlemanbeforewhoknewsomuchaboutWelshpoetry,noraWelshoneeither。Ah,ifyourhonourisfondofpoetsandtheirplacesyoudidrighttocometoAnglesey—andyourhonourwasrightinsayingthatyoucan’tstirastepwithoutmeetingone;youhaveanexampleofthetruthofthatinme—fortotellyourhonourthetruth,Iamapoetmyself,andnobadoneeither。"

Thentuckingthedustybootsunderhisarm,theoldmanwithalowcongee,anda"Good—night,yourhonour!"shuffledoutoftheroom。

CHAPTERXL

CaerGyby—LewisMorris—NobleCharacter。

IDINEDorrathersuppedwellattheRailroadInn—Ibegitspardon,Hotel,forthewordInnatthepresentdayisdecidedlyvulgar。Ilikewisesleptwell;howcouldIdootherwise,passingthenight,asIdid,inanexcellentbedinalarge,cool,quietroom?Iaroseratherlate,wentdowntothecoffee—roomandtookmybreakfastleisurely,afterwhichIpaidmybillandstrolledforthtoobservethewondersoftheplace。

CaerGybiorCybi’stownissituatedonthesouthernsideofabayonthenorth—westernsideofAnglesey。Closetoitonthesouth—

westisaveryhighheadlandcalledinWelshPenCaerGybi,ortheheadofCybi’scity,andinEnglishHolyHead。Onthenorth,acrossthebay,isanothermountainofequalaltitude,whichifI

amnotmistakenbearsinWelshthenameofMynyddLlanfair,orSaintMary’sMount。ItiscalledCybi’stownfromoneCybi,whoabouttheyear500builtacollegeheretowhichyouthsnobleandignobleresortedfromfarandnear。HewasanativeofDyfedorPembrokeshire,andwasafriendandforalongtimeafellow—

labourerofSaintDavid。Besidesbeinglearned,accordingtothestandardofthetime,hewasagreatwalker,andfrombronzinghiscountenancebyfrequentwalkinginthesunwasgenerallycalledCybiVelin,whichmeanstawnyoryellowCybi。

SomuchforCybi,andhistown!AndnowsomethingaboutonewhosememoryhauntedmemuchmorethanthatofCybiduringmystayatHolyhead。

LewisMorriswasbornataplacecalledTrefyBeirdd,inAnglesey,intheyear1700。Anglesey,orMona,hasgivenbirthtomanyillustriousmen,butfew,uponthewhole,entitledtomorehonourablementionthanhimself。Fromahumblesituationinlife,forheservedanapprenticeshiptoacooperatHolyhead,heraisedhimselfbyhisindustryandtalentstoaffluenceanddistinction,becamealandedproprietorinthecountyofCardigan,andinspectoroftheroyaldomainsandminesinWales。Perhapsamanmoregenerallyaccomplishedneverexisted;hewasafirst—ratemechanic,anexpertnavigator,agreatmusician,bothintheoryandpractice,andapoetofsingularexcellence。Ofhimitwassaid,andwithtruth,thathecouldbuildashipandsailit,frameaharpandmakeitspeak,writeanodeandsetittomusic。Yetthatsaying,eulogisticasitis,isfarfromexpressingallthevastpowersandacquirementsofLewisMorris。Thoughself—taught,hewasconfessedlythebestWelshscholarofhisage,andwaswell—versedinthosecognatedialectsoftheWelsh—theCornish,Armoric,HighlandGaelicandIrish。HewaslikewisewellacquaintedwithHebrew,GreekandLatin,hadstudiedAnglo—Saxonwithsomesuccess,andwasawriterofboldandvigorousEnglish。Hewasbesidesagoodgeneralantiquary,andforknowledgeofancientWelshcustoms,traditions,andsuperstitions,hadnoequal。Yetallhasnotbeensaidwhichcanbeutteredinhispraise;hehadqualitiesofmindwhichentitledhimtohigheresteemthananyaccomplishmentconnectedwithintellectorskill。Amongstthesewerehisnoblegenerosityandsacrificeofselfforthebenefitofothers。Weeksandmonthshewasinthehabitofdevotingtothesuperintendenceoftheaffairsofthewidowandfatherless:oneofhisprincipaldelightswastoassistmerit,tobringitbeforetheworldandtoprocureforititsproperestimation:itwashewhofirstdiscoveredthetunefulgeniusofblindParry;itwashewhofirstputtheharpintohishand;itwashewhofirstgavehimscientificinstruction;itwashewhocheeredhimwithencouragementandassistedhimwithgold。ItwashewhoinstructedthecelebratedEvanEvansintheancientlanguageofWales,enablingthattalentedbuteccentricindividualtoreadthepagesoftheRedBookofHergestaseasilyasthoseoftheWelshBible;itwashewhocorrectedhisverseswithmatchlessskill,refiningandpolishingthemtilltheybecamewellworthyofbeingreadbyposterity;itwashewhogavehimadvice,which,haditbeenfollowed,wouldhavemadethePrydyddHir,ashecalledhimself,oneofthemostillustriousWelshmenofthelastcentury;anditwashewhofirsttoldhiscountrymenthattherewasayouthofAngleseywhosegenius,ifproperlyencouraged,promisedfairtorivalthatofMilton:oneofthemosteloquentletterseverwrittenisonebyhim,inwhichhedescantsuponthebeautiesofcertainpoemsofGronwyOwen,thelatentgeniusofwhoseearlyboyhoodhehadobserved,whomhehadclothed,educatedandassisteduptotheperiodwhenhewasordainedaministeroftheChurch,andwhomhefinallyrescuedfromastateborderingonstarvationinLondon,procuringforhimanhonourableappointmentintheNewWorld。

ImmortalitytoLewisMorris!Butimmortalityhehaswon,evenashisillustriouspupilhassaid,whoinhiselegyuponhisbenefactor,writteninAmerica,inthefour—and—twentymeasures,atatimewhenGronwyhadnotheardtheWelshlanguagespokenformorethantwentyyears,haswordstothefollowingeffect:—

"AslongasBardicloreshalllast,scienceandlearningbecherished,thelanguageandbloodoftheBritonsundefiled,songbeheardonParnassus,heavenandearthbeinexistence,foambeonthesurge,andwaterintheriver,thenameofLewisofMonshallbeheldingratefulremembrance。"

CHAPTERXLI

ThePier—IrishReapers—WildIrishFace—FatherToban—TheHerdofSwine—LatinBlessing。

THEdaywasashotastheprecedingone。Iwalkedslowlytowardsthewest,andpresentlyfoundmyselfuponapier,orbreakwater,atthemouthoftheharbour。Alargesteamerlayatalittledistancewithinthepier。Therewerefishing—boatsonbothsides,thegreaternumberontheouterside,whichliestowardsthehillofHolyHead。OntheshadysideofthebreakwaterunderthewallweretwoorthreedozenofIrishreapers;somewerelyingasleep,othersinpartiesoftwoorthreewereseatedwiththeirbacksagainstthewall,andweretalkingIrish;theselastallappearedtobewell—

mademiddle—sizedyoungfellows,withratheraruffianlylook;theystaredatmeasIpassed。Thewholepartyhadshillealahseitherintheirhandsorbytheirsides。Iwenttotheextremityofthepier,wherewasalittlelighthouse,andthenturnedback。AsI

againdrewneartheIrish,Iheardahubbubandobservedagreatcommotionamongstthem。All,whetherthosewhomIhadseensitting,orthosewhomIhadseenreclining,hadgot,orweregettingontheirlegs。AsIpassedthemtheywereallstandingup,andtheireyeswerefixeduponmewithastrangekindofexpression,partlyofwonder,methought,partlyofrespect。"Yes,’tishe,sureenough,"Iheardonewhisper。OnIwent,andataboutthirtyyardsfromthelastIstopped,turnedroundandleanedagainstthewall。AlltheIrishwerelookingatme—presentlytheyformedintoknotsandbegantodiscourseveryeagerlyinIrish,thoughinanundertone。AtlengthIobservedafellowgoingfromoneknottotheother,exchangingafewwordswitheach。

Afterhehadheldcommunicationwithallhenoddedhishead,andcametowardsmewithaquickstep;thereststoodsilentandmotionlesswiththeireyesturnedinthedirectioninwhichIwas,andinwhichhewasadvancing。Hestoppedwithinayardofmeandtookoffhishat。Hewasanathleticfellowofabouttwenty—eight,dressedinbrownfrieze。Hisfeatureswereswarthy,andhiseyesblack;ineverylineamentofhiscountenancewasajumbleofsavageryandroguishness。IneversawamoregenuinewildIrishface—therehestoodlookingatmefullintheface,hishatinonehandandhisshillealahintheother。

"Well,whatdoyouwant?"saidI,afterwehadstaredateachotherabouthalfaminute。

"Sure,I’mjustcomeonthepartoftheboysandmyselftobegabitofafavourofyourreverence。"

"Reverence,"saidI,"whatdoyoumeanbystylingmereverence?"

"Ochsure,becausetobestyledyourreverenceistherightofyourreverence。"

"Praywhatdoyoutakemefor?"

"Ochsure,weknowsyourreverenceverywell。"

"Well,whoamI?"

"Och,whyFatherTobantobesure。"

"AndwhoknowsmetobeFatherToban?"

"Och,aboyhereknowsyourreverencetobeFatherToban。"

"Whereisthatboy?"

"Herehestands,yourreverence。"

"Areyouthatboy?"

"Iam,yourreverence。"

"AndyoutoldtherestthatIwasFatherToban?"

"Idid,yourreverence。"

"AndyouknowmetobeFatherToban?"

"Ido,yourreverence。"

"HowdoyouknowmetobeFatherToban?"

"Och,whybecausemany’sthegoodtimethatIhaveheardyourreverence,FatherToban,saymass。"

"Andwhatisityouwantmetodo?"

"Why,seehere,yourreverence,wearegoingtoembarkinthedirtysteameryonderforouldIreland,whichstartsassoonasthetideserves,andwewantyourreverencetoblessusbeforewegoes。"

"Youwantmetoblessyou?"

"Wedo,yourreverence,wewantyoutospitoutalittlebitofablessinguponusbeforewegoesonboard。"

"Andwhatgoodwouldmyblessingdoyou?"

"Allkindsofgood,yourreverence;itwouldpreventthedirtysteamerfromcatchingfire,yourreverence,orfromgoingdown,yourreverence,orfromrunningagainsttheblackguardHillofHowthinthemist,providedthereshouldbeone。"

"AndsupposeIweretotellyouthatIamnotFatherToban?"

"Och,yourreverence,willneverthinkofdoingthat。"

"WouldyoubelievemeifIdid?"

"Wewouldnot,yourreverence。"

"IfIweretoswearthatIamnotFatherToban?"

"Wewouldnot,yourreverence。"

"Ontheevangiles?"

"Wewouldnot,yourreverence。"

"OntheCross?"

"Wewouldnot,yourreverence。"

"AndsupposeIweretorefusetogiveyouablessing?"

"Och,yourreverencewillneverrefusetoblessthepoorboys。"

"ButsupposeIweretorefuse?"

"Why,insuchacase,whichby—the—byeisaltogetherimpossible,weshouldjustmakebouldtogiveyourreverenceagoodbigbating。"

"Youwouldbreakmyhead?"

"Wewould,yourreverence。"

"Killme?"

"Wewould,yourreverence。"

"Youwouldreallyputmetodeath?"

"Wewouldnot,yourreverence。"

"Andwhat’sthedifferencebetweenkillingandputtingtodeath?"

"Och,surethere’sallthedifferenceintheworld。Killingmanesonlyagoodbigbating,suchaseveryIrishmanisusedto,andwhichyourreverencewouldgetoverlongbeforematins,whereasputtingyourreverencetodeathwouldpreventyourreverencefromsayingmassforeverandaday。"

"Andyouaredeterminedonhavingablessing?"

"Weare,yourreverence。"

"Byhookorbycrook?"

"Bycrookorbyhook,yourreverence。"

"BeforeIblessyou,willyouanswermeaquestionortwo?"

"Iwill,yourreverence。"

"Areyounotasetofgreatbigblackguards?"

"Weare,yourreverence。"

"Withoutonegoodquality?"

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