Wild Wales

第22章

Ashewasstandingbeforealongbuilding,throughtheopendoorofwhichasoundproceededlikethatofpreaching,Iaskedhimwhatplaceitwas,andwhatwasgoingoninit,andreceivedforanswerthatitwastheNationalSchool,andthattherewasaclergymanpreachinginit。IthenaskediftheclergymanwasoftheChurch,andonlearningthathewas,Iforthwithenteredthebuilding,whereinoneendofalongroomIsawayoungmaninawhitesurplicepreachingfromadesktoaboutthirtyorfortypeople,whowereseatedonbenchesbeforehim。Isatdownandlistened。Theyoungmanpreachedwithgreatzealandfluency。Thesermonwasaveryseasonableone,beingabouttheharvest,andinitthingstemporalandspiritualwereveryhappilyblended。ThepartofthesermonwhichIheard—IregrettedthatIdidnothearthewhole—

lastedaboutfive—and—twentyminutes:ahymnfollowed,andthenthecongregationbrokeup。Iinquiredthenameoftheyoungmanwhopreached,andwastoldthatitwasEdwards,andthathecamefromCaernarvon。ThenameoftheincumbentoftheparishwasThomas。

LeavingthevillageoftheharvestsermonIproceededonmywaywhichlaytothesouth—east。IwasnowdrawingnightothemountainousdistrictofEryri;anoblehillcalledMountEilioappearedbeforemetothenorth;animmensemountaincalledPenDrwsCoedlayoveragainstitonthesouth,justlikeacouchantelephantwithitsheadlowerthanthetopofitsback。AfteratimeIenteredamostbeautifulsunnyvalley,andpresentlycametoabridgeoverapleasantstreamrunninginthedirectionofthesouth。AsIstooduponthatbridgeIalmostfanciedmyselfinParadise;everythinglookedsobeautifulorgrand—green,sunnymeadowslayallaroundme,intersectedbythebrook,thewatersofwhichranwithtinklinglaughteroverashinglybottom。NobleEiliotothenorth;enormousPenDrwsCoedtothesouth;atallmountainfarbeyondthemtotheeast。"Ineverwasinsuchalovelyspot!"Icriedtomyselfinaperfectrapture。"Oh,howgladIshouldbetolearnthenameofthisbridge,standingonwhichIhavehad’Heavenopenedtome,’asmyoldfriendstheSpaniardsusedtosay。"ScarcelyhadIsaidthesewordswhenI

observedamanandawomancomingtowardsthebridgeinthedirectioninwhichIwasbound。Ihastenedtomeettheminthehopeofobtaininginformation。Theywerebothratheryoung,andwereprobablyacoupleofsweetheartstakingawalkorreturningfrommeeting。Thewomanwasafewstepsinadvanceoftheman;

seeingthatIwasabouttoaddressher,sheavertedherheadandquickenedhersteps,andbeforeIhadcompletedthequestion,whichIputtoherinWelsh,shehadboltedpastmescreaming"AhDimSeasneg,"andwasseveralyardsdistant。

Ithenaddressedmyselftothemanwhohadstopped,askinghimthenameofthebridge。

"PontBettws,"hereplied。

"Andwhatmaybethenameoftheriver?"saidI。

"Afon—something,"saidhe。

Andonmythankinghimhewentforwardtothewomanwhowaswaitingforhimbythebridge。

"IsthatmanWelshorEnglish?"Iheardhersaywhenhehadrejoinedher。

"Idon’tknow,"saidtheman—"hewascivilenough;whywereyousuchafool?"

"Oh,IthoughthewouldspeaktomeinEnglish,"saidthewoman,"andthethoughtofthathorridEnglishputsmeintosuchaflutter;youknowIcan’tspeakawordofit。"

TheyproceededontheirwayandIproceededonmine,andpresentlycomingtoalittleinnontheleftsideoftheway,attheentranceofavillage,Iwentin。

Arespectable—lookingmanandwomanwereseatedatteaatatableinanicecleankitchen。Isatdownonachairnearthetable,andcalledforale—thealewasbroughtmeinajug—Idranksome,putthejugonthetable,andbegantodiscoursewiththepeopleinWelsh。Ahandsomedogwasseatedontheground;suddenlyitlaidoneofitspawsonitsmaster’sknee。

"Down,Perro,"saidhe。

"Perro!"saidI;"whydoyoucallthedogPerro?"

"WecallhimPerro,"saidtheman,"becausehisnameisPerro。"

"Buthowcameyoutogivehimthatname?"saidI。

"Wedidnotgiveittohim,"saidtheman—"heborethatnamewhenhecameintoourhands;afarmergavehimtouswhenhewasveryyoung,andtoldushisnamewasPerro。"

"AndhowcamethefarmertocallhimPerro?"saidI。

"Idon’tknow,"saidtheman—"whydoyouask?"

"Perro,"saidI,"isaSpanishword,andsignifiesadogingeneral。IamrathersurprisedthatadoginthemountainsofWalesshouldbecalledbytheSpanishwordfordog。"Ifellintoafitofmusing。"HowSpanishwordsarediffused!WhereveryougoyouwillfindsomeSpanishwordorotherinuse。IhaveheardSpanishwordsusedbyRussianmujiksandTurkishfig—gatherers—I

havethisdayheardaSpanishwordinthemountainsofWales,andI

havenodoubtthatwereItogotoIcelandIshouldfindSpanishwordsusedthere。HowcanIdoubtit;whenIreflectthatmorethansixhundredyearsago,oneofthewordstodenoteabadwomanwasSpanish。IntheoldestofIcelandicdomesticSagas,Skarphedin,thesonofNialtheseer,calledHallgerdr,widowofGunnar,aputa—andthatwordsomaddenedHallgerdrthatsheneverrestedtillshehadbroughtabouthisdestruction。Now,whythispreferenceeverywhereforSpanishwordsoverthoseofeveryotherlanguage?IneverheardFrenchwordsorGermanwordsusedbyRussianmujiksandTurkishfig—gatherers。IquestionwhetherI

shouldfindanyinIcelandformingpartofthevernacular。I

certainlyneverfoundaFrenchorevenaGermanwordinanoldIcelandicSaga。WhythispartialityeverywhereforSpanishwords?

thequestionispuzzling;atanyrateitputsmeout—"

"Yes,itputsmeout!"Iexclaimedaloud,strikingmyfistonthetablewithavehemencewhichcausedthegoodfolkstostarthalfupfromtheirseats。Beforetheycouldsayanything,however,avehicledroveuptothedoor,andamangettingoutcameintotheroom。Hehadaglazedhatonhishead,andwasdressedsomethingliketheguardofamail。Hetouchedhishattome,andcalledforaglassofwhiskey。IgavehimtheseleoftheeveningandenteredintoconversationwithhiminEnglish。InthecourseofdiscourseIlearnedthathewasthepostman,andwasgoinghisroundsinhiscart—hewasmorethanrespectfultome,hewasfawningandsycophantic。Thewhiskeywasbrought,andhestoodwiththeglassinhishand。SuddenlyhebeganspeakingWelshtothepeople;

before,however,hehadutteredtwosentencesthewomanliftedherhandwithanalarmedair,crying"Hush!heunderstands。"Thefellowwasturningmetoridicule。Iflungmyheadback,closedmyeyes,openedmymouthandlaughedaloud。Thefellowstoodaghast;

hishandtrembled,andhespiltthegreaterpartofthewhiskeyupontheground。AttheendofabouthalfaminuteIgotup,askedwhatIhadtopay,andonbeingtoldtwopence,Iputdownthemoney。ThengoinguptothemanIputmyrightforefingerveryneartohisnose,andsaid"Dwyoiaithdwyowyneb,twolanguages,twofaces,friend!"ThenafterleeringathimforamomentI

wishedthepeopleofthehousegood—eveninganddeparted。

WalkingrapidlyontowardstheeastIsoondrewneartheterminationofthevalley。ThevalleyterminatesinadeepgorgeorpassbetweenMountEilio—whichby—the—byeispartofthechineofSnowdon—andPenDrwsCoed。Thelatter,thatcouchantelephantwithitsheadturnedtothenorth—east,seemsasifitwishedtobarthepasswithitstrunk;byitstrunkImeanakindofjaggyridgewhichdescendsdowntotheroad。Ienteredthegorge,passingnearalittlewaterfallwhichwithmuchnoiserunsdowntheprecipitoussideofMountEilio;presentlyIcametoalittlemillbythesideofabrookrunningtowardstheeast。Iaskedthemiller—woman,whowasstandingnearthemill,withherheadturnedtowardsthesettingsun,thenameofthemillandthestream。"Themilliscalled’ThemilloftheriverofLakeCwellyn,’"saidshe,"andtheriveriscalledtheriverofLakeCwellyn。"

"Andwhoownstheland?"saidI。

"SirRichard,"saidshe。"ISirRichardywynperthynytir。MrWilliams,however,possessessomepartofMountEilio。"

"AndwhoisMrWilliams?"saidI。

"WhoisMrWilliams?"saidthemiller’swife。"Ho,ho!whatastrangeryoumustbetoaskmewhoisMrWilliams。"

Ismiledandpassedon。Themillwasbelowtheleveloftheroad,anditswheelwasturnedbythewaterofalittleconduitsuppliedbythebrookatsomedistanceabovethemill。IhadobservedsimilarconduitsemployedforsimilarpurposesinCornwall。A

littlebelowthemillwasaweir,andalittlebelowtheweirtheriverranfrothingpasttheextremeendoftheelephant’ssn

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