Wild Wales

第30章

dustysurlycountenance。IaskedhiminWelshifIwasintherightdirectionforWrexham,heansweredinasurlymannerinEnglish,thatIwas。IagainspoketohiminWelsh,makingsomeindifferentobservationontheweather,andheansweredinEnglishyetmoregrufflythanbefore。ForthethirdtimeIspoketohiminWelsh,whereuponlookingatmewithagrinofsavagecontempt,andshowingasetofteethlikethoseofamastiff,hesaid,"How’sthis?whyyouhaven’tawordofEnglish?Aprettyfellowyou,withalongcoatonyourbackandnoEnglishonyourtongue,an’tyouashamedofyourself?Why,hereamIinashortcoat,yetI’dhaveyoutoknowthatIcanspeakEnglishaswellasWelsh,ayeandagooddealbetter。""Allpeoplearenotequallyclebber,"saidI,stillspeakingWelsh。"Clebber,"saidhe,"clebber!whatisclebber?whycan’tyousayclever!Why,Ineversawsuchalow,illiteratefellowinmylife;"andwiththesewordsheturnedawaywitheverymarkofdisdain,andenteredacottagenearathand。

"HereIhavehad,"saidItomyself,asIproceededonmyway,"topayfortheover—praisewhichIlatelyreceived。Thefarmerontheothersideofthemountaincalledmeapersonofgreatintelligence,whichIneverpretendedtobe,andnowthiscolliercallsmealow,illiteratefellow,whichIreallydon’tthinkIam。

ThereiscertainlyaNemesismixedupwiththeaffairsofthisworld;everygoodthingwhichyouget,beyondwhatisstrictlyyourdue,issuretoberequiredfromyouwithavengeance。Alittleover—praisebyagreatdealofunderrating—agleamofgoodfortunebyanightofmisery。"

InowsawWrexhamChurchataboutthedistanceofthreemiles,andpresentlyenteredalanewhichledgentlydownfromthehills,whichwerethesameheightsIhadseenonmyrighthand,somemonthspreviously,onmywayfromWrexhamtoRhiwabon。Thescenerynowbecameverypretty—hedge—rowswereoneitherside,aluxurianceoftreesandplentyofgreenfields。Ireachedthebottomofthelane,beyondwhichIsawastrange—lookinghouseuponaslopeontherighthand。Itwasverylarge,ruinous,andseeminglydeserted。Alittlebeyonditwasafarm—house,connectedwithwhichwasalongrowoffarmingbuildingsalongtheroad—side。

Seeingawomanseatedknittingatthedoorofalittlecottage,I

askedherinEnglishthenameoftheold,ruinoushouse?

"CadoganHall,sir,"shereplied。

"Andwhomdoesitbelongto?"saidI。

"Idon’tknowexactly,"repliedthewoman,"butMrMorrisatthefarmholdsit,andstowshisthingsinit。"

"Canyoutellmeanythingaboutit?"saidI。

"Nothingfarther,"saidthewoman,"thanthatitissaidtobehaunted,andtohavebeenabarrackmanyyearsago。"

"CanyouspeakWelsh?"saidI。

"No,"saidthewoman,"IareWelshbuthavenoWelshlanguage。"

LeavingthewomanIputonmybestspeedandinabouthalfanhourreachedWrexham。

ThefirstthingIdidonmyarrivalwastogotothebookshopandpurchasetheWelshMethodisticbook。Itcostmesevenshillings,andwasathick,bulkyoctavowithacut—and—come—againexpressionaboutit,whichwasanythingbutdisagreeabletome,forIhateyourflimsypublications。Theeveningwasnowbeginningtosetin,andfeelingsomewhathungryIhurriedofftotheWynstayArmsthroughstreetscrowdedwithmarketpeople。OnarrivingattheinnIenteredthegrandroomandordereddinner。Thewaiters,observingmesplashedwithmudfromheadtofoot,lookedatmedubiously;seeing,however,therespectable—lookingvolumewhichI

boreinmyhand—noneofyourrailroadstuff—theybecamemoreassured,andIpresentlyheardonesaytotheother,"It’sallright—that’sMrSo—and—So,thegreatBaptistpreacher。Hehasbeenpreachingamongstthehills—don’tyouseehisBible?"

SeatingmyselfatatableIinspectedthevolume。AndhereperhapsthereaderexpectsthatIshallregalehimwithananalysisoftheMethodisticalvolumeatleastaslongasthatofthelifeofTomO’

theDingle。Inthatcase,however,hewillbedisappointed;allthatIshallatpresentsayofitis,thatitcontainedahistoryofMethodisminWales,withthelivesoftheprincipalWelshMethodists。Thatitwasfraughtwithcuriousandoriginalmatter,waswritteninastraightforward,Methodicalstyle,andthatIhavenodoubtitwillsomedayorotherbeextensivelyknownandhighlyprized。

AfterdinnerIcalledforhalfapintofwine。WhilstIwastriflingoverit,acommercialtravellerenteredintoconversationwithme。AftersometimeheaskedmeifIwasgoingfurtherthatnight。

"ToLlangollen,"saidI。

"Bytheteno’clocktrain?"saidhe。

"No,"Ireplied,"I’mgoingonfoot。"

"Onfoot!"saidhe;"Iwouldnotgoonfoottherethisnightforfiftypounds。"

"Whynot?"saidI。

"Forfearofbeingknockeddownbythecolliers,whowillbealloutanddrunk。"

"Ifnotmorethantwoattackme,"saidI,"Ishan’tmuchmind。

WiththisbookIamsureIcanknockdownone,andIthinkIcanfindplayfortheotherwithmyfists。"

Thecommercialtravellerlookedatme。"AstrangekindofBaptistminister,"IthoughtIheardhimsay。

CHAPTERLXII

RhiwabonRoad—ThePublic—houseKeeper—NoWelsh—TheWrongRoad—TheGoodWife。

IPAIDmyreckoningandstarted。Thenightwasnowrapidlyclosingin。Ipassedthetoll—gateandhurriedalongtheRhiwabonroad,overtakingcompaniesofWelshgoinghome,amongstwhomweremanyindividuals,whom,fromtheirthickandconfusedspeech,aswellasfromtheirstaggeringgait,Ijudgedtobeintoxicated。AsI

passedaredpublic—houseonmyrighthand,atthedoorofwhichstoodseveralcarts,ascreamofWelshissuedfromit。

"LetanySaxon,"saidI,"whoisfondoffightingandwishesforabloodynosegointhere。"

ComingtothesmallvillageaboutamilefromRhiwabon,Ifeltthirsty,andseeingapublic—house,inwhichallseemedtobequiet,Iwentin。Athick—setmanwithapipeinhismouthsatinthetap—room,andalsoawoman。

"Whereisthelandlord?"saidI。

"Iamthelandlord,"saidtheman,huskily。"Whatdoyouwant?"

"Apintofale,"saidI。

Themangotupandwithhispipeinhismouthwentstaggeringoutoftheroom。Inaboutaminutehereturnedholdingamuginhishand,whichheputdownonatablebeforeme,spillingnoslightquantityoftheliquorashedidso。Iputdownthree—penceonthetable。Hetookthemoneyupslowlypiecebypiece,lookedatitandappearedtoconsider,thentakingthepipeoutofhismouthhedashedittosevenpiecesagainstthetable,thenstaggeredoutoftheroomintothepassage,andfromthenceapparentlyoutofthehouse。Itastedthealewhichwasverygood,thenturningtothewomanwhoseemedaboutthree—and—twentyandwasrathergood—

looking,IspoketoherinWelsh。

"IhavenoWelsh,sir,"saidshe。

"Howisthat?"saidI;"thisvillageisIthinkintheWelshery。"

"Itis,"saidshe,"butIamfromShropshire。"

"Areyouthemistressofthehouse?"saidI。

"No,"saidshe,"Iammarriedtoacollier;"thengettingupshesaid,"Imustgoandseeaftermyhusband。"

"Won’tyoutakeaglassofalefirst?"saidI,offeringtofillaglasswhichstoodonthetable。

"No,"saidshe;"Iamtheworstintheworldforaglassofale;"

andwithoutsayinganythingmoreshedeparted。

"Iwonderwhetheryourhusbandisanythinglikeyouwithrespecttoaglassofale,"saidItomyself;thenfinishingmyaleIgotupandleftthehouse,whichwhenIdepartedappearedtobeentirelydeserted。

Itwasnowquitenight,anditwouldhavebeenpitchy—darkbutfortheglareofforges。Therewasanimmenseglaretothesouth—west,whichIconceivedproceededfromthoseofCefnMawr。Itlightedupthesouth—westernsky;thenthereweretwootherglaresnearertome,seeminglydividedbyalumpofsomething,perhapsagroveoftrees。

WalkingveryfastIsoonovertookaman。Iknewhimatoncebyhisstaggeringgait。

"Ah,landlord!"saidI;"whitherbound?"

"ToRhiwabon,"saidhe,huskily,"forapint。"

"IsthealesogoodatRhiwabon,"saidI,"thatyouleavehomeforit?"

"No,"saidhe,rathershortly,"there’snotaglassofgoodaleinRhiwabon。"

"Thenwhydoyougothither?"saidI。

"Becauseapintofbadliquorabroadisbetterthanaquartofgoodathome,"saidthelandlord,reelingagainstthehedge。

"Therearemanyinahigherstationthanyouwhoactuponthatprinciple,"thoughtItomyselfasIpassedon。

IsoonreachedRhiwabon。Therewasaprodigiousnoiseinthepublic—housesasIpassedthroughit。"Collierscarousing,"saidI。"Well,Ishallnotgoamongstthemtopreachtemperance,thoughperhapsinstrictdutyIought。"Attheendofthetown,insteadoftakingtheroadontheleftsideofthechurch,Itookthatontheright。ItwasnottillIhadproceedednearlyamilethatI

begantobeapprehensivethatIhadmistakentheway。HearingsomepeoplecomingtowardsmeontheroadIwaitedtilltheycameup;

theyprovedtobeamanandawoman。OnmyinquiringwhetherIwasrightforLlangollen,theformertoldmethatIwasnot,andinordertogetthereitwasnecessarythatIshouldreturntoRhiwabon。Iinstantlyturnedround。Abouthalf—waybackImetamanwhoaskedmeinEnglishwhereIwashurryingto。IsaidtoRhiwabon,inordertogettoLlangollen。"Well,then,"saidhe,"youneednotreturntoRhiwabon—yonderisashortcutacrossthefields,"

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