ESSAYS-1

第6章

Thoughtheammunitionbreadwithwhichheisfurnishedisrathercoarseandbrown,beingmadeofrye-meal,withonlyasmallquantityofthecoarserpartofthebranseparatedfromit,yetitisnotonlywholesome,butverynourishing;andformakingsoupitisevenmorepalatablethanwheatenbread。Mostofthesoldiers,however,intheElector’sservice,andparticularlythosebelongingtotheBavarianregiments,makeapracticeofsellingagreatpartoftheirallowanceofammunitionbread,andwiththemoneytheygetforit,buythebestwheatenbreadthatistobehad;andmanyofthemnevertastebrownbreadbutintheirsoup。

Theammunitionbreadisdeliveredtothesoldierseveryfourthday,inloaves,eachloafbeingequaltotworations;anditisarulegenerallyestablishedinthemesses,foreachsoldiertofurnishoneloaffortheuseofthemesseverytwelfthday,sothathehasfive-sixthsofhisallowanceofbread,whichremainsathisdisposal。

TheforegoingaccountofthemannerinwhichtheBavariansoldiersarefed,will,Ithink,showmostclearlythegreatimportanceofmakingsoldierslivetogetherinmesses——ItmaylikewisefurnishsomeusefulhintstothosewhomaybeengagedinfeedingthePoor,orinprovidingFoodforships’scompanies,orotherbodiesofmenwhoarefedincommon。

Withregardtotheexpenseoffuelintheseexperiments,asthevictualswerecookedinearthenpots,overanopenfire,theconsumptionoffire-woodwasverygreat。

Onthe10thofJune,when9lb。301/2lothsofsoup,1lb。28

lothsofmeat,and5lb。24lothsofbreaddumplins,inall17lb。

181/2ofFoodwereprepared,andtheprocessofcooking,fromthetimethefirewaslightedtillthevictualsweredone,lastedtwohoursandforty-fiveminutes,andtwenty-ninepounds,Bavarianweight,offire-woodwereconsumed。

Onthe11thofJune,when11lb。26lothsofbreadsoup,and8lb。

8lothsofbreaddumplins,inall20lb。2lothsofFoodwereprepared,theprocessofcookinglastedonehourandthirtyminutes;——andseventeenpoundsofwoodwereconsumed。

Onthe20thofJune,inSerjeantKein’smess,15lb。ofsoup;

1lb。22lothsofmeat,and8lb。ofliverdumplins,inall24lb。

22lothsofFoodwereprepared,andthroughtheprocessofcookinglastedtwohoursandforty-fiveminutes,only271/2lb。

offire-woodwereconsumed。

Onthe21stofJune,thesamequantityofsoupandmeat,and7lb。

ofbreaddumplins,inall23lb。22lothsofFoodwerepreparedintwohoursandthirtyminutes,withtheconsumptionof181/2lb。

ofwood。

Onthe22ndofJune,15lb。ofsoup,and10lb。ofmeatdumplins,inall25lb。ofFood,werecookedintwohoursandforty-fiveminutes,andthewoodconsumedwas18lb。10loths。

Thefollowingtablewillshow,inastrikingandsatisfactorymanner,theexpenseoffuelintheseexperiments:

DateoftheTimeemployedQuantityQuantityQuantityExperiments。incooking。ofFoodofWoodofWoodtoprepared。consumed。1lb。ofFood。

June1795。Hours。min。lb。loths。lb。

10th24517181/229

11th13020217

20th2452422171/2

21st2302322181/2

22d245250181/4——

Sums5121511101/21001/4——

Means2232201/5201/2010/11lb。

ThemeanquantityofFoodprepareddailyinfivedaysbeing22lb。

verynearly,andthemeanquantityoffire-woodconsumedbeing20

1/20lb。;thisgives10/11lb。ofwoodforeachpoundofFood。

Butithasbeenfoundbyactualexperiment,madewiththeutmostcare,inthenewkitchenoftheHouseofIndustryatMunich,andoftenrepeated,that600lb。ofFood,(oftheSoupNo。I。giventothePoor,)maybecookedwiththeconsumptionofonly44lb。

ofpine-wood。Andhenceitappearshowverygreatthewasteoffuelmustbeinallculinaryprocesses,astheyarecommonlyperformed;forthoughthetimetakenupincookingthesoupforthePooris,atamedium,morethanFOURHOURSANDAHALF,whilethatemployedbythesoldiersintheircookingislessthanTWOHOURSANDAHALF;yetthequantityoffuelconsumedbythelatterisnearTHIRTEENTIMESgreaterthanthatemployedinthepublickitchenoftheHouseofIndustry。

ButImustnothereanticipatehereamatterwhichistobethesubjectofaseparateEssay;andwhich,fromitsgreatimportance,certainlydeservestobecarefullyandthoroughlyinvestigated。

CHAPTER。V。

Ofthegreatimportanceofmakingsoldierseattogetherinregularmesses。

Theinfluenceofsucheconomicalarrangementsextendseventothemoralcharacterofthosewhoaretheobjectsofthem。

Oftheexpenceoffeedingsoldiersinmesses。

OfthesurprisingsmallnessoftheexpenceoffeedingthepooratMunich。

SpecificproposalsrespectingthefeedingofthepoorinGreatBritain,withcalculationsoftheexpense,atthepresentpricesofprovisions。

Allthosewhohavebeenconversantinmilitaryaffairsmusthavehadfrequentopportunitiesofobservingthestrikingdifferencethereis,evenintheappearanceofthemen,betweenregimentsinwhichmessesareestablished,andFoodisregularlyprovidedunderthecareandinspectionoftheOfficers;andothers,inwhichthesoldiersareleftindividuallytoshiftforthemselves。

Andthedifferencewhichmaybeobservedbetweensoldierswholiveinmesses,andareregularlyfed,andotherswhoarenot,isnotconfinedmerelytotheirexternalappearance:

theinfluenceofthesecausesextendsmuchfarther,andeventheMORALCHARACTERofthemanisaffectedbythem。

Peaceofmind,whichisasessentialtocontentmentandhappinessasitistovirtue,dependsmuchuponorderandregularityinthecommonaffairsoflife;andinnocaseareorderandmethodmorenecessarytohappiness,(andconsequentlytovirtue,)thaninthat,wherethepreservationofhealthisconnectedwiththesatisfyingofhunger;anappetitewhosecravingsaresometimesasinordinateastheyareinsatiable。

Peaceofminddependslikewisemuchuponeconomy,orthemeansusedforpreventingpecuniaryembarrassments;andthesavingstosoldiersinprovidingFood,whicharisefromhousekeepinginmessesoftenortwelvepersonswholivetogether,isverygreatindeed。

Butgreatasthesesavingsnoware,Ithinktheymightbemadestillmoreconsiderable;andIshallgivemyreasonsforthisopinion。

ThoughtheBavariansoldiersliveataverysmallexpense,littlemorethanTWO-PENCEsterlinga-day,yetwhenIcomparethissum,smallasitis,withtheexpenseoffeedingthePoorintheHouseofIndustryatMunich,whichdoesnotamounttomorethanTWOFARTHINGSa-day,evenincludingthecostofthepieceofdryrye-bread,weighingsevenouncesAvoirdupois[11],whichisgiventhemintheirhands,atdinner,butwhichtheyseldomeatatdinner,butcommonlycarryhomeintheirpocketsfortheirsuppers;——whenIcompare,Isay,thissmallsum,withthedailyexpenceofthesoldiersfortheirsubsistence,Ifindreasontoconclude,eitherthatthesoldiersmightbefedcheaper,orthatthePoormustbeabsolutelystarvedupontheirallowance。Thatthelatterisnotthecase,thehealthycountenancesofthePoor,andtheairofplacidcontentmentwhichalwaysaccompaniesthem,aswellinthedining-hallasintheirworking-rooms,affordsatthesametimethemostinterestingandmostsatisfactoryproofpossible。

Weretheytogohomeinthecourseoftheday,itmightbesuspectedthattheygotsomethingathometoeat,inadditiontowhattheyreceivefromthepublickitchenoftheEstablishment;——

butthistheyseldomoreverdo;andtheycometothehousesoearlyinthemorning,andleaveitsolateatnight,thatitdoesnotseemprobablethattheycouldfindtimetocookanythingattheirownlodgings。

Someofthem,Iknown,makeaconstantpracticeofgivingthemselvesatreatofapintofbeeratnight,aftertheyhavefinishedtheirwork;butIdonotbelievetheyhaveanythingelsefortheirsuppers,exceptitbethebreadwhichtheycarryhomefromtheHouseofIndustry。

Imustconfess,however,veryfairly,thatitalwaysappearedtomequitesurprising,andthatitisstillamysterywhichIdonotclearlyunderstand,howitispossibleforthesepoorpeopletobesocomfortablyfeduponthesmallallowanceswhichtheyreceive——Thefacts,however,arenotonlycertain,buttheyarenotorious。Manypersonsofthemostrespectablecharactersinthiscountry,(GreatBritain,)aswellasupontheContinent,whohavevisitedtheHouseofIndustryatMunich,canbearwitnesstotheirauthenticity;andtheyaresurelynotthelessinterestingforbeingextraordinary。

Itmusthoweverberemembered,thatwhatformerlycostTWOFARTHINGS

inBavaria,atthemeanpriceofprovisionsinthatcountry,costsTHREEfarthingsatthispresentmoment;andwouldprobablycostSIXinLondon,andinmostotherpartsofGreatBritain:butstill,itwilldoubtlessappearalmostincredible,thatacomfortableandnourishingmeal,sufficientforsatisfyingthehungerofastrongman,maybefurnishedinLondon,andatthisverymoment,whenprovisionsofallkindsaresoremarkablydear,atLESSTHANTHREEFARTHINGS。Thefact,however,ismostcertain,andmayeasilybedemonstratedbymakingtheexperiment。

Supposingthatitshouldbenecessary,infeedingthePoorinthiscountry,tofurnishthemwiththreemealsa-day,eventhatmightbedoneataverysmallexpence,werethesystemoffeedingthemadoptedwhichishereproposed。Theamountofthatexpencewouldbeasfollows:

Pence。Farths。

Forbreakfast,20ouncesoftheSoupNo,II。

composedofpearlbarley,peas,potatoes,andfinewheatenbread(Seepage210。)021/2

Fordinner,20ouncesofthesameSoup,and7ouncesofrye-bread……12

Forsupper,20ouncesofthesameSoup……021/2——

Inall4lb。3oz。ofFood[12],whichwouldcost23

Shoulditbethoughtnecessarytogivealittlemeatatdinner,thismaybestbedonebymixingit,cutfine,orminced,inbreaddumplins;orwhenbacon,oranykindofsaltedorsmokedmeatisgiven,tocutitfineandmixitwiththebreadwhichiseateninthesoup。Ifthebreadbefried,theFoodwillbemuchimproved;

butthiswillbeattendedwithsomeadditionalexpence——

Rye-breadisasgood,ifnotbetter,forfrying,thanbreadmadeofwheatflour;anditiscommonlynothalfsodear——

Perhapsrye-breadfriedmightbefurnishedalmostascheapaswheatenbreadnotfried;andifthiscouldbedone,itwouldcertainlybeaverygreatimprovement。

Thereisanotherwaybywhichthesecheapsoupsmaybemadeexceedinglypalatableandsavoury;——whichisbymixingwiththemaverysmallquantityofredherrings,mincedveryfineorpoundedinamortar——ThereisnokindofcheapFood,Ibelieve,thathassomuchtasteasredherrings,orthatcommunicatesitsflavourwithsomuchliberalitytoothereatables;andtomostpalatesitisremarkablyagreeable。

Cheesemaylikewisebemadeuseofforgivinganagreeablerelishtothesesoups;andaverysmallquantityofitwillbesufficientforthatpurpose,providedithasastrongtaste,andisproperlyapplied——Itshouldbegratedtoapowderwithagrater,andasmallquantityofthispowderthrownoverthesoup,AFTERITISDISHEDOUT——Thisisfrequentlydoneatthesumptuoustablesoftherich,andisthoughtagreatdelicacy;whilethePoor,whohavesofewenjoyments,havenotbeentaughttoavailthemselvesofthis,whichissomuchwithintheirreach。

Thosewholeavocationscallthemtovisitdistantcountries,andthosewhosefortuneenablesthemtotravelfortheiramusementorimprovement,havemanyopportunitiesofacquiringusefulinformation;andinconsequenceofthisintercoursewithstrangers,manyimprovements,andmoreREFINEMENTS,havebeenintroducedintothiscountry;butthemostimportantadvantagesthatMIGHTbederivedfromanintimateknowledgeofthemannersandcustomsofdifferingnations,——theintroductionofimprovementstendingtofacilitatethemeansofsubsistence,andtoincreasethecomfortsandconveniencesofthemostnecessitousandmostnumerousclassesofsociety,——havebeen,alas!littleattendedto。Ourextensivecommerceenablesustoprocure,andwedoactuallyimportmostofthevaluablecommoditieswhicharetheproduceeitherofthefoiloftheocean,oroftheindustryofmaninallthevariousregionsofthehabitableglobe;——buttheresultoftheEXPERIENCEOFAGESrespectingtheusethatcanbemadeofthosecommoditieshasseldombeenthoughtworthimporting!IneverseemaccaroniinEngland,orpolentainGermany,uponthetablesoftherich,withoutlamentingthatcheapandwholesomeluxuriesshouldbemonopolizedbythosewhostandleastinneedofthem;whilethePoor,who,onewouldthink,oughttobeconsideredashavingalmostanEXCLUSIVErighttothem,(astheywerebothinventedbythePoorofaneighbouringnation,)arekeptinperfectignoranceofthem。

ButthesetwokindsofFoodaresopalatable,wholesome,andnourishing,andmaybeprovidedsoeasily,andatsoverycheaparateinallcountries,andparticularlyinGreatBritain,thatIthinkIcannotdobetterthantodevoteafewpagestotheexaminationofthem;——andIshallbeginwithPolenta,orIndiancorn,asitiscalledinthiscountry。

CHAPTER。VI。

OfINDIANCORN。

Itaffordsthecheapestandmostnourishingfoodknown。

Proofsthatitismorenourishingthanrice。

Differentwaysofpreparingorcookingit。

Computationoftheexpenseoffeedingapersonwithit,foundedonexperiment。

ApprovedReceiptformakinganINDIANPUDDING。

IcannothelpincreasingthelengthofthisEssaymuchbeyondtheboundsIoriginallyassignedtoit,inordertohaveanopportunityofrecommendingakindofFoodwhichIbelievetobebeyondcomparisonthemostnourishing,cheapest,andmostwholesomethatcanbeprocuredforfeedingthePoor——ThisisIndianCorn,amostvaluableproduction;andwhichgrowsinalmostallclimates;andthoughitdoesnotsucceedremarkablywellinGreatBritain,andinsomepartsofGermany,yetitmayeasilybehadingreatabundance,fromothercountries;

andcommonlyataverylowrate。

ThecommonpeopleinthenorthernpartsofItalylivealmostentirelyuponit;andthroughoutthewholeContinentofAmericaitmakesaprincipalarticleofFood——InItalyitiscalledPolenta,whereitispreparedorcookedinavarietyofways,andformsthebasisofanumberofverynourishingdishes——

Themostcommonwayhoweverofusingitinthatcountryistogrinditintomeal,andwithwatertomakeitintoathickkindofpudding,likewhatinthiscountryiscalledahasty-pudding,whichiseatenwithvariouskindsofsauce,andsometimeswithoutanysauce。

InthenorthernpartsofNorthAmerica,thecommonhouseholdbreadthroughoutthecountryiscomposedofonepartofIndianmealandonepartofryemeal;andImuchdoubtwhetheramorewholesome,ormorenourishingkindofbreadcanbemade。

Riceisuniversallyallowedtobeverynourishing,——muchmoresoeventhanwheat;butthereisacircumstancewellknowntoallthosewhoareacquaintedwiththedetailsoffeedingthenegroslavesinthesouthernstatesofNorthAmerica,andintheWestIndies,thatwouldseemtoprove,inaverydecisiveandsatisfactorymanner,thatINDIANCORNISEVENMORENOURISHING

THANRICE——Inthosecountries,wherericeandIndianCornarebothproducedinthegreatestabundance,thenegroeshavefrequentlyhadtheiroptionbetweenthesetwokindsofFood;andhaveinvariablypreferredthelatter——Thereasonstheygiveforthispreferencetheyexpressinstrong,thoughnotinverydelicateterms——Theysaythat“Riceturnstowaterintheirbellies,andrunsoff;“——but“IndianCornstayswiththem,andmakesstrongtowork。”

ThisaccountofthepreferencewhichnegroesgivetoIndianCornforFood,andoftheirreasonsforthispreference,wascommunicatedtomebytwogentlemenofmostrespectablecharacter,wellknowninEngland,andnowresidentinLondon,whowereformerlyplanters;oneinGeorgia,andtheotherinJamaica。

ThenutritivequantitywhichIndianCornpossessed,inamosteminentdegree,whenemployedforfatteninghogsandpoultry,andforgivingstrengthtoworkingoxen,haslongbeenuniversallyknownandacknowledgedineverypartofNorthAmerica;andnobodyinthatcountrythinksofemployinganyothergrainforthosepurposes。

AllthesefactsprovetoademonstrationthatIndiaCornpossessesveryextraordinarynutritivepowers;anditiswellknownthatthereisnospeciesofgrainthatcanbehadsocheap,orinsogreatabundance;——itisthereforewellworthytheattentionofthosewhoareengagedinprovidingcheapandwholesomeFoodforthePoor,——orintakingmeasuresforwardingofftheevilswhichcommonlyattendageneralscarcityofprovisions,toconsiderintime,howthisusefularticleofFoodmaybeprocuredinlargequantities,andhowtheintroductionofitintocommonusecanbemosteasilybeeffected。

InregardtothemannerofusingIndianCorn,thereareavastvarietyofdifferentwaysinwhichitmaybeprepared,orcooked,inordertoitsbeingusedasFood——Onesimpleandobviouswayofusingit,istomixitwithwheat,rye,orbarleymeal,inmakingbread;butwhenitisusedformakingbread,andparticularlywhenitismixedwithwheatflour,itwillgreatlyimprovethequalityofthebreadiftheIndianmeal,(thecoarserpartofthebranbeingfirstseparatedfromitbysifting,)bepreviouslymixedwithwater,andboiledforaconsiderablelengthoftime,——twoorthreehoursforinstance,overaslowfire,beforetheothermealorflourisaddedtoit——Thisboiling,which,iftheproperquantityofwaterisemployed,willbringthemasstotheconsistencyofathinpudding,willeffectuallyremoveacertaindisagreeableRAWTASTEintheIndianCorn,whichsimplebakingwillnotentirelytakeaway;andthewheatflourbeingmixedwiththispuddingafterithasbeentakenfromthefireandcooked,andthewholewellkneadedtogether,maybemadetorise,andbeformedintoloaves,andbakedintobread,withthesamefacilitythatbreadismadeofwheatflouralone,orofanymixturesofdifferentkindsofmeal。

WhentheIndianmealispreviouslypreparedbyboiling,inthemannerheredescribed,amostexcellent,andverypalatablekindofbread,notinferiortowheatenbread,maybemadeofequalpartsofthismealandofcommonwheatflour。

Butthemostsimple,andIbelievethebest,andmosteconomicalwayofemployingIndianCornasFood,istomakeitintopuddings——Thereis,asIhavealreadyobserved,acertainrawnessinthetasteofit,whichnothingbutlongboilingcanremove;butwhenthatdisagreeabletasteisremoved,itbecomesextremelypalatable;andthatitisremarkablywholesome,hasbeenprovedbysomuchexperiencethatnodoubtscanpossiblybeentertainedofthatfact。

Thecultureofitrequiredmorelabourthanmostotherkindsofgrain;but,ontheotherhand,theproduceisveryabundant,anditisalwaysmuchcheaperthaneitherwheatorrye——

ThepriceofitintheCarolinas,andinGeorgia,hasoftenbeenaslowaseighteenpence,andsometimesasoneshillingsterlingperbushel;——buttheIndianCornwhichisgrowninthosesouthernstatesismuchinferior,bothinweightandinitsqualities,tothatwhichistheproduceofcolderclimates——IndianCornofthegrowthofCanada,andtheNewEnglandstates,whichisgenerallythoughttobeworthtwentypercent。moreperbushelthanthatwhichisgrowninthesouthernstates,maycommonlybeboughtfortwoandsixpence,orthreeshillingsabushel。

ItisnowthreeshillingsandsixpenceabushelatBoston;butthepricesofprovisionsofallkindshavebeenmuchraisedoflateinallpartsofAmerica,owingtotheuncommonlyhighpriceswhicharepaidforthemintheEuropeanmarketssincethecommencementofthepresentwar。

IndianCornandryeareverynearlyofthesameweight,buttheformergivesrathermoreflour,whengroundandsifted,thanthelatter——IfindbyareportoftheBoardofAgriculture,ofthe10thofNovember1795,thatthreebushelsofIndianCornweighed1cwt。1qr。18lb。(or53lb。eachbushel),andgave1cwt。20lb。

offlourand26lb。ofbran;whilethreebushelsofrye,weighing1cwt。1qr。22lb。(or54lb。thebushel),gaveonly1cwt。17lb。

offlourand28lb。ofbran——ButImuchsuspectthattheIndianCornusedintheseexperimentswasnotofthebestquality[13]。

Isawsomeofit,anditappearedtometobeofthatkindwhichiscommonlygrowninthesouthernstatesofNorthAmerica——

IndianCornofthegrowthofcolderclimatesis,probably,atleastasheavyaswheat,whichweightsatamediumabout58lb。

perbushel,andIimagineitwillgivenearlyasmuchflour[14]。

InregardtothemostadvantageousmethodofusingIndianCornasFood,Iwouldstronglyrecommend,particularlywhenitisemployedforfeedingthePoor,adishmadeofitthatisinthehighestestimationthroughoutAmerica,andwhichisreallyverygood,andverynourishing。Thisiscalledhasty-pudding;anditismadeinthefollowingmanner:Aquantityofwater,proportionedtothequantityofhasty-puddingintendedtobemade,isputoverthefireinanopenironpot,orkettle,andaproperquantityofsaltforseasoningthepuddingbeingpreviouslydissolvedinthewater,Indianmealisstirredintoit,bylittleandlittle,withawoodedspoonwithalonghandle,whilethewatergoesontobeheatedandmadetoboil;——greatcarebeingtakentoputinthemealbyverysmallquantities,andbysiftingitslowlythroughthefingersofthelefthand,andstirringthewateraboutverybrisklyatthesametimewiththewoodenspoon,withtherighthand,tomixthemealwiththewaterinsuchamannerastopreventlumpsbeingformed——

Themealshouldbeaddedsoslowly,that,whenthewaterisbroughttoboil,themassshouldnotbethickerthanwater-gruel,andhalfanhourmore,atleast,shouldbeemployedtoaddtheadditionalquantityofmealnecessaryforbringingthepuddingtobeoftheproperconsistency;duringwhichtimeitshouldbestirredaboutcontinually,andkeptconstantlyboiling——

Themethodofdeterminingwhenthepuddinghasacquiredtheproperconsistencyisthis;——thewoodenspoonusedforstirringitbeingplaceduprightinthemiddleofthekettle,ifitfallsdown,moremealmustbeadded;butifthepuddingissufficientlythickandadhesivetosupportitinaverticalposition,itisdeclaredtobePROOF;andnomoremealisadded——Iftheboiling,insteadofbeingcontinuedonlyhalfanhour,beprolongedtothreequartersofanhour,oranhour,thepuddingwillbeconsiderablyimprovedbythisprolongation。

Thishasty-pudding,whendone,maybeeateninvariousways——

Itmaybeput,whilehot,byspoonfulsintoabowlofmilk,andeatenwiththemilkwithaspoon,inlieuofbread;andusedinthiswayitisremarkablypalatable——Itmaylikewisebeeaten,whilehot,withasaucecomposedofbutterandbrownsugar,orbutterandmolasses,withorwithoutafewdropsofvinegar;andhoweverpeoplewhohavenotbeenaccustomedtothisAmericancookerymaybeprejudicedagainstit,theywillfindupontrialthatitmakesamostexcellentdish,andonewhichneverfailstobemuchlikedbythosewhoareaccustomedtoit——

TheuniversalfondnessofAmericansforitprovesthatitmusthavesomemerit;——forinacountrywhichproducesallthedelicaciesofthetableinthegreatestabundance,itisnottobesupposedthatawholenationshouldhaveatastesodepravedastogiveadecidedpreferencetoanyparticularspeciesofFoodwhichhasnotsomethingtorecommendit。

Themannerinwhichhasty-puddingiseatenwithbutterandsugar,orbutterandmolasses,inAmerica,isasfollows:Thehasty-puddingbeingspreadoutequallyuponaplate,whilehot,anexcavationismadeinthemiddleofit,withaspoon,intowhichexcavationapieceofbutter,aslargeasanutmeg,isput;anduponit,aspoonfulofbrownsugar,ormorecommonlyofmolasses——

Thebutterbeingsoonmeltedbytheheatofthepudding,mixeswiththesugar,ormolasses,andformsasauce,which,beingconfinedintheexcavationmadeforit,occupiesthemiddleoftheplate——Thepuddingistheneatenwithaspoon,eachspoonfulofitbeingdiptintothesaucebeforeitiscarriedtothemouth;

carebeinghadintakingitup,tobeginontheoutside,ornearthebrimoftheplate,andtoapproachthecenterbyregularadvances,inordernottodemolishtoosoontheexcavationwhichformsthereservoirforthesauce。

IfIamprolixinthesedescriptions,myreadermustexcuseme;

forpersuadedasIamthattheactionofFooduponthepalate,andconsequentlythepleasureofeating,dependsverymuchindeedupontheMANNERinwhichtheFoodisappliedtotheorgansoftaste,Ihavethoughtitnecessarytomention,andeventoillustrateintheclearestmanner,everycircumstancewhichappearedtometohaveinfluenceinproducingthoseimportanteffects。

Inthecaseinquestion,asitisthesaucealonewhichgivestasteandpalatablenesstotheFood,andconsequentlyisthecauseofthepleasureenjoyedineatingit,theimportanceofapplying,orusingit,insuchamannerastoproducethegreatestandmostdurableeffectpossibleontheorgansoftaste,isquiteevident;andinthemannerofeatingthisFoodwhichhasherebeendescribedandrecommended,thesmallquantityofsauceused,(andthequantitymustbesmall,asitistheexpensivearticle,)iscertainlyappliedtothepalatemoreimmediately;——

byagreatersurface;——andinastateofgreatercondensation;——

andconsequentlyactsuponitmorepowerfully;——andcontinuestoactuponitforagreaterlengthoftime,thanitcouldwellbemadetodowhenusedinanyotherway——Wereitmoreintimatelymixedwiththepudding,forinstance,insteadofbeingmerelyappliedtoitsexternalsurface,itsactionwouldcertainlybemuchlesspowerful;andwereitpouredoverthepudding,orwaspropercarenottakentokeepitconfinedinthelittleexcavationorreservoirmadeinthemidstofthepuddingtocontainit,muchofitwouldattachitselfandadheretothesurfaceoftheplate,andbelost。

Hasty-puddinghasthisinparticulartorecommendit;——andwhichrendersitsingularlyusefulasFoodforpoorfamilies,——thatwhenmoreofitismadeatoncethanisimmediatelywanted,whatremainsmaybepreservedgoodforseveraldays,andanumberofverypalatabledishesmaybemadeofit——Itmaybecutinthinslice,andtoastedbeforethefire,oronagridiron,andeateninsteadofbread,eitherinmilk,orinanykindofsouporpottage;orwithanyotherkindofFoodwithwhichbreadiscommonlyeaten;oritmaybeeatencold,withoutanypreparation,withawarmsaucemadeofbutter,molasses,orsugar,andalittlevinegar——Inthislast-mentionedwayofeatingit,itisquiteaspalatable,andIbelievemorewholesome,thanwheneatenwarm;thatistosay,whenitisfirstmade——Itmaylikewisebeputcold,withoutanypreparation,intohotmilk;

andthismixtureisbynomeansunpalatable,particularlyifitbesufferedtoremaininthemilktillitiswarmedthroughout,orifitbeboiledinthemilkforafewmoments。

AfavouritedishinAmerica,andaverygoodone,ismadeofcoldboiledcabbagechoppedfine,withasmallquantityofcoldboiledbeef,andslicesofcoldhasty-pudding,allfriedtogetherinbutterorhog’slard。

Thoughhasty-puddingsarecommonlymadeofIndianmeal,yetitisbynomeansuncommontomakethemofequalpartsofIndian,andofryemeal;——andtheyaresometimesmadeofryemealalone;

orofryemealandwheatflourmixed。

Togiveasatisfactoryideaoftheexpenceofpreparinghasty-puddingsinthiscountry,(England,)andoffeedingthePoorwiththem,Imadethefollowingexperiment:——About2pintsofwater,whichweighedjust2lb。Avoirdupois,wereputoverthefireinasaucepanofapropersize,and58grainsinweightor1/120ofapoundofsaltbeingadded,thewaterwasmadetoboil——Duringthetimethatiswasheating,smallquantitiesofIndianmealwerestirredintoit,andcarewastaken,bymovingthewaterbrisklyabout,withawoodenspoon,topreventthemealfrombeingformedintolumps;andasoftenasanylumpswereobserved,theywerecarefullybrokenwiththespoon;——theboilingwasthencontinuedhalfanhour,andduringthistimethepuddingwascontinuallystirredaboutwiththewoodenspoon,andsomuchmoremealwasaddedaswasfoundnecessarytobringthepuddingtobeoftheproperconsistency。

Thisbeingdone,itwastakenfromthefireandweighed,andwasfoundtoweighjust1lb。111/2oz——Uponweighingthemealwhichremained,(thequantityfirstprovidedhavingbeenexactlydeterminedbyweightinthebeginningoftheexperiment,)itwasfoundthatjustHALFAPOUNDofmealhadbeenused。

Fromtheresultofthisexperimentitappears,thatforeachpoundofIndianmealemployedinmakinghasty-pudding,wemayreckon3lb。9oz。ofthepudding——AndexpenceofprovidingthiskindofFood,orthecostofitbythepound,atthepresenthighpriceofgraininthiscountry,maybeseenbythefollowingcomputation:

L。s。d。

HalfapoundofIndianmeal,(thequantity)]

usedintheforegoingexperiment,)at2d]

apoundor7s。6d。abushelforthecorn,]……001

(thepricestatedinthereportofthe]

BoardofAgricultureofthe10thof]

November1795,sooftenreferredto,)costs]

58grainsor1/120ofapoundofsalt,at]

2d。perpound]……0001/60——

Total,0011/60

Now,asthequantityofpuddingpreparedwiththeseingredientswas1lb。111/2oz。andthecostoftheingredientsamountedtoONEPENNYANDONESIXTIETHOFAPENNY,thisgivesforthecostofonepoundofhasty-pudding71/120ofapenny,or21/3farthings,verynearly——ItmusthoweverberememberedthattheIndianCornisherereckonedataveryexorbitantpriceindeed[15]。

ButbeforeitcanbedeterminedwhattheexpencewillbeoffeedingthePoorwiththiskindofFood,itwillbenecessarytoascertainhowmuchofitwillberequiredtogiveacomfortablemealtooneperson;andhowmuchtheexpencewillbeofprovidingthesauceforthatquantityofpudding——Todeterminethesetwopointswithsomedegreeofprecision,Imadethefollowingexperiment:——Havingtakenmybreakfast,consistingoftwodishesofcoffee,withcream,andadrytoast,atmyusualhourofbreakfasting,(nineo’clockinthemorning,)andhavingfastedfromthattimetillfiveo’clockintheafternoon,Ithendineduponmyhasty-pudding,withtheAmericansaucealreadydescribed,andIfound,aftermyappetiteforFoodwasperfectlysatisfied,andIfeltthatIhadmadeacomfortabledinner,thatIhadeatenjust1lb。11/2oz。ofthepudding;andtheingredients,ofwhichthesaucewhichwaseatenwithitwascomposed,werehalfanounceofbutter;threequartersofanounceofmolasses;

and21grainsor1/342ofapintofvinegar。

Thecostofthisdinnermaybeseenbythefollowingcomputation:

ForthePuddingFarthings。

1lb。11/2oz。ofhasty-pudding,at21/3farthingsapound……21/2——

FortheSauceHalfanounceofbutter,at10d。perpound11/4

Threequartersofanounceofmolasses,at6d。perpound……1

1/352ofapintofvinegar,at2s8d。

thegallon……01/16——

TotalfortheSauce,25/16farthings。

Sumtotalofexpencesforthisdinner,forthepuddinganditssauce……413/16farthings。

Orsomethinglessthanonepennyfarthing。

IbelieveitwouldnotbeeasytoprovideadinnerinLondon,atthistime,whenprovisionsofallkindsaresodear,equallygratefultothepalateandsatisfyingtothecravingsofhunger,atasmallerexpence——Andthatthismealwassufficientforallthepurposesofnourishmentappearsfromhence,thatthoughI

tookmyusualexercise,anddidnotsupafterit,Ineitherfeltanyparticularfaintness,noranyunusualdegreeofappetiteformybreakfastnextmorning。

Ihavebeenthemoreparticularinmyaccountofthisexperiment,toshowinwhatmannerexperimentsofthiskindought,inmyopinion,tobeconducted;——andalsotoinduceotherstoengageinthesemostusefulinvestigations。

Itwillnotescapetheobservationofthereader,thatsmallastheexpencewasofprovidingthisdinner,yetverynearone-halfofthatsumwaslaidoutinpurchasingtheingredientsforthesauce——Butitisprobablethataconsiderablepartofthatexpencemightbesaved——InItaly,polenta,whichisnothingmorethanhasty-puddingmadewithIndianmealandwater,isveryfrequently,andIbelievecommonlyeatenwithoutanysauce,andwhenonholidaysorotherextraordinaryoccasionstheyindulgethemselvesbyaddingasaucetoit,thissauceisfarfromexpensive——Itiscommonlynothingmorethanaverysmallquantityofbutterspreadovertheflatsurfaceofthehotpolentawhichisspreadoutthininalargeplatter;withalittleParmezanorotherstrongcheese,reducedtoacoarsepowderbygratingitwithagrater,strewedoverit。

PerhapsthisItaliansaucemightbemoreagreeabletoanEnglishpalatethanthatcommonlyusedinAmerica。Itwouldcertainlybelessexpensive,asmuchlessbutterwouldberequired,andascheeseinthiscountryisplentyandcheap。ButwhatevermaybethesauceusedwithFoodpreparedofIndianCorn,Icannottoostronglyrecommendtheuseofthatgrain。

WhileIwasemployedinmakingmyexperimentuponhasty-pudding,Ilearntfrommyservant,(aBavarian,)whoassistedme,afactwhichgavemegreatpleasure,asitservedtoconfirmmeintheopinionIhavelongentertainedofthegreatmeritofIndianCorn——HeassuredmethatpolentaismuchesteemedbythepeasantryinBavaria,andthatitmakesaveryconsiderablearticleoftheirFood;thatitcomesfromItalythroughtheTyrol;andthatitiscommonlysoldinBavariaATTHESAMEPRICE

ASWHEATFLOUR!Cantherebestrongerproofsofitsmerit?

ThenegroesinAmericapreferittorice;andtheBavarianpeasantstowheat——Whythenshouldnottheinhabitantsofthisislandlikeit?Itwillnot,Ihope,bepretended,thatitisinthisfavouredsoilalonethatprejudicestakesuchdeeprootthattheyarenevertobeeradicated,orthatthereisanythingpeculiarintheconstructionofthepalateofanEnglishman。

TheobjectionthatmaybemadetoIndianCorn,——thatitdoesnotthrivewellinthiscountry,——isofnoweight。Thesameobjectionmight,withequalreason,bemadetorice,andtwentyotherarticlesofFoodnowincommonuse。

Ithaseverbeenconsidered,bythoseversedinthescienceofpoliticaleconomy,asanobjectofthefirstimportancetokeepdownthepricesofprovisions,particularlyinmanufacturingandcommercialcountries;——andiftherebeacountryonearthwherethisoughttobedone,itissurelyGreatBritain:——andthereiscertainlynocountrywhichhasthemeansofdoingitsomuchinitspower。

Buttheprogressofnationalimprovementsmustbeveryslow,howeverfavorableothercircumstancesmaybe,wherethosecitizens,who,bytheirrankandsituationinsociety,aredestinedtodirectthepublicopinion,AFFECTtoconsiderthenationalprejudicesasunconquerable[16]——Buttoreturntothesubjectimmediatelyunderconsideration。

Thoughhasty-puddingis,Ibelieve,thecheapestFoodthatcanbepreparedwithIndianCorn,yetseveralotherverycheapdishesmaybemadeofit,whichingeneralareconsideredasbeingmorepalatable,andwhich,mostprobably,wouldbepreferredinthiscountry;andamongthese,whatinAmericaiscalledaplainIndianpuddingcertainlyholdsthefirstplace,andcanhardlyfailtobemuchlikedbythose,whowillbepersuadedtotryit——Itisnotonlycheapandwholesome,butagreatdelicacy;

anditisprincipallyonaccountofthesepuddingsthattheAmericans,whoresideinthiscountry,importannuallyfortheirownconsumptionIndianCornfromtheContinentofAmerica。

InordertobeabletogivethemostparticularandsatisfactoryinformationrespectingthemannerofpreparingtheseIndianpuddings,Icausedoneofthemtobemadehere,(inLondon,)

undermyimmediatedirection,byapersonbornandbroughtupinNorthAmerica,andwhounderstandsperfectlytheAmericanartofcookeryinallitsbranches[17]。Thispudding,whichwasallowedbycompetentjudgeswhotastedittobeasgoodastheyhadevereaten,wascomposedandpreparedinthefollowingmanner:

ApprovedReceiptformakingaplainIndianPudding。

ThreepoundsofIndianmeal(fromwhichthebranhadbeenseparatedbysiftingitinacommonhairsieve)wereputintoalargebowl,andfivepintsofboilingwaterwereputtoit,andthewholewellstirredtogether;threequartersofapoundofmolassesandoneounceofsaltwerethenaddedtoit,andthesebeingwellmixed,bystirringthemwiththeotheringredients,thepuddingwaspouredintoafitbag;andthebagbeingtiedup,(anemptyspacebeingleftinthebagtyingit,equaltoaboutone-sixthofitscontents,forgivingroomforthepuddingtoswell,)thispuddingwasputintoakettleofboilingwater,andwasboiledsixhourswithoutintermission;thelossofthewaterinthekettlebyevaporationduringthistimebeingfrequentlyreplacedwithboilingwaterfromanotherkettle。

Thepuddinguponbeingtakenoutofthebagweighedtenpoundsandoneounce;anditwasfoundtobeperfectlydone,nothavingthesmallestremainsofthatrawtastesodisagreeabletoallpalates,andparticularlytothosewhoarenotusedtoit,whichalwayspredominatesindishespreparedofIndianmealwhentheyarenotsufficientlycooked。

Asthisrawtasteistheonlywell-foundedobjectionthatcanbemadetothismostusefulgrain,andis,Iampersuaded,theonlycausewhichmakesitdislikedbythosewhoarenotaccustomedtoit,Iwouldadvisethosewhomayattempttointroduceitintocommonuse,whereitisnotknown,tobeginwithIndian(bag)puddings,suchasIhaveherebeendescribing;andthatthisisaverycheapkindofFoodwillbeevidentfromthefollowingcomputation:

ExpenseofpreparingtheIndianPuddingabovementioned。

Pence。Pence。

3lb。ofIndianmealat……11/2……41/2

3/4lb。ofmolassesat……6……41/2

1oz。ofsaltat2d。perlb……01/8——

Totalfortheingredients,91/8

Asthispuddingweighed101/16lbs。andtheingredientscostninepenceandhalfafarthing,thisgivesthreefarthingsandahalfforeachpoundofpudding。

Itwillbeobserved,thatinthiscomputationIhavereckonedtheIndianmealatnomorethan11/2dperpound,whereasinthecalculationwhichwasgiventodeterminetheexpenseofpreparinghasty-puddingitwastakenattwopenceapound。Ihaveherereckoneditat11/2d。apound,becauseIampersuadeditmightbehadhereinLondonforthatprice,andevenforless——ThatwhichhaslatelybeenimportedfromBostonhasnotcostsomuch;

andwereitnotforthepresentuniversalscarcityofprovisionsinEurope,whichhasnaturallyraisedthepriceofgraininNorthAmerica,IhavenodoubtbutIndianmealmightbehadinthiscountryforlessthanonepennyfarthingperpound。

IncomposingtheIndianpuddingabovementioned,themolassesischargedat6d。thepound,butthatpriceisveryexorbitant。

Agallonofmolassesweighingabout10lb。commonlycostsintheWestIndiesfrom7d。to9d。sterling;andallowingsufficientlyfortheexpensesoffreight,insurance,andafairprofitforthemerchant,itcertainlyoughtnottocostinLondonmorethan1s。8d。

thegallon[18];andthiswouldbringitto2d。perpound。

IfwetakethepricesofIndianmealandmolassesastheyarehereascertained,andcomputetheexpenseoftheingredientsforthepuddingbeforementioned,itwillbeasfollows:——

Pence。Pence。

3lb。ofIndianmealat……11/4……33/4

3/4lb。ofmolassesat……2……11/2

1oz。ofsaltat2d。perlb……01/8——

Totalfortheingredients,53/8

Nowasthepuddingweighed101/16lbs。thisgivestwofarthings,verynearly,foreachpoundofpudding;whichiscertainlyverycheapindeed,particularlywhentheexcellentqualitiesoftheFoodareconsidered。

Thispudding,whichoughttocomeoutofthebagsufficientlyhardtoretainitsform,andeventobecutintoslices,issorichandpalatable,thatitmayverywellbeeatenwithoutanysauce;butthosewhocanafforditcommonlyeatitwithbutter。

Asliceofthepudding,abouthalfaninch,orthreequartersofaninchinthickness,beinglaidhotuponaplate,anexcavationismadeinthemiddleofit,withthepointoftheknife,intowhichasmallpieceofbutter,aslargeperhapsasanutmeg,isput,andwhereitsoonmelts。Toexpeditethemeltingofthebutter,thesmallpieceofpuddingwhichiscutoutofthemiddleoftheslicetoformtheexcavationforreceivingthebutter,isfrequentlylaidoverthebutterforafewmoments,andistakenaway(andeaten)assoonasthebutterismelted。

Ifthebutterisnotsaltenough,alittlesaltisputintoitafteritismelted。Thepuddingistobeeatenwithaknifeandfork,beginningatthecircumferenceoftheslice,andapproachingregularlytowardsthecenter,eachpieceofpuddingbeingtakenupwiththefork,anddippedintothebutter,ordippedintoitINPARTONLY,asiscommonlythecase,beforeitiscarriedtothemouth。

Tothosewhoareaccustomedtoviewobjectsuponagreatscale,andwhoaretoomuchemployedindirectingwhatoughttobedone,todescendtothosehumbleinvestigationswhicharenecessarytoshowHOWitistobeeffected,thesedetailswilldoubtlessappeartriflingandridiculous;butasmymindisstronglyimpressedwiththeimportanceofgivingthemostminuteandcircumstantialinformationrespectingtheMANNEROFPERFORMING

anyoperation,howeversimpleitmaybe,towhichpeoplehavenotbeenaccustomed,Imustbegtheindulgenceofthosewhomaynotfeelthemselvesparticularlyinterestedinthesedescriptions。

InregardtotheamountoftheexpenceforsauceforaplainIndian(bag)pudding,Ihavefoundthatwhenbutterisusedforthatpurpose,(andnoothersauceoughtevertobeusedwithit,)

halfanounceofbutterwillsufficeforonepoundofthepudding——

Itisverypossibletocontrivematterssoastousemuchmore;——perhapstwice,orthreetimesasmuch;——butifthedirectionsrelativetotheMANNERofeatingthisFood,whichhavealreadybeengiven,arestrictlyfollowed,theallowanceofbutterheredeterminedwillbequitesufficientforthepurposeforwhichitisdesigned;thatistosay,forgivinganagreeablerelishtothepudding——Thosewhoareparticularlyfondofbuttermayusethreequartersofanounceofitwithapoundofthepudding;butIamcertain,thattouseanouncewouldbetowasteittonopurposewhatever。

IfnowwereckonIrish,orotherfirkinbutter,(which,asitissalted,isthebestthatcanbeused,)ateightpencethepound,thesauceforonepoundofpudding,namely,halfanounceofbutter,willcostjustonefarthing;andthis,addedtothecostofthepudding,twofarthingsthepound,givesthreefarthingforthecostbythepoundofthiskindoffood,withitssauce;and,asthisfoodisnotonlyveryrichandnutritive,butsatisfyingatthesametimeinaveryremarkabledegree,itappearshowwellcalculateditisforfeedingthePoor。

Itshouldberemembered,thatthemolassesusedasaningredientintheseIndianpuddings,doesnotservemerelytogivetastetothem;——itactsastillmoreimportantpart;——itgiveswhat,inthelanguageofthekitchen,iscalledlightness——Itisasubstituteforeggs,andnothingbuteggscanserveasasubstituteforit,exceptitbetreacle;which,infact,isakindofmolasses;orperhapscoarsebrownsugar,whichhasnearlythesameproperties——Itpreventsthepuddingfrombeingheavy,andclammy;andwithoutcommunicatingtoitanydisagreeablesweettaste,oranythingofthatflavourpeculiartomolasses,givesitarichnessuncommonlypleasingtothepalate。Andtothiswemayadd,thatitisnutritiveinaveryextraordinarydegree——Thisisafactwellknowninallcountrieswheresugarismade。

Howfarthelawsandregulationsoftradeexistinginthiscountrymightrenderitdifficulttoprocuremolassesfromthoseplaceswhereitmaybehadatthecheapestrate,Iknownot;——norcanItellhowfarthefreeimportationofitmightbedetrimentaltoourpublicfinances;——Icannot,however,helpthinking,thatitissogreatanobjecttothiscountrytokeepdownthepricesofprovisions,orrathertocheckthealarmingceleritywithwhichtheyarerising,thatmeansoughttobefoundtofacilitatetheimportation,andintroductionintocommonuse,ofanarticleofFoodofsuchextensiveutility。Itmightservetocorrectinsomemeasure,thebalefulinfluenceofanotherarticleofforeignproduce,(tea,)whichisdoinginfiniteharminthisisland。

ApointofgreatimportanceinpreparinganIndianpudding,istoboilitPROPERLYandSUFFICIENTLY。Thewatermustbeactuallyboilingwhenthepuddingisputintoit;anditnevermustbesufferedtoceaseboilingforamoment,tillitisdone;andifthepuddingisnotboiledfullsixhours,itwillnotbesufficientlycooked——Itshardness,whendone,willdependonthespaceleftinthebagitsexpansion。Theconsistencyofthepuddingoughttobesuch,thatitcanbetakenoutofthebagwithoutfallingtopieces;——butitisalwaysbetter,onmanyaccounts,tomakeittoohardthantoosoft。Theformofthepuddingmaybethatofacylinder;ofratherofatruncatedcone,thelargestendbeingtowardsthemouthofthebag,inorderthatitmaybegotoutofthebagwithgreaterfacility;oritmaybemadeofaglobularform,bytyingitupinanapkin——Butwhateveristheformofthepudding,thebag,ornapkininwhichitistobeboiled,mustbewetinboilingwaterbeforethepudding,(whichisquiteliquidbeforeitisboiled,)ispouredintoit;otherwiseitwillbeapttorunthroughthecloth。

Thoughthispuddingissogood,perfectlyplain,whenmadeaccordingtothedirectionsheregiven,thatIdonotthingitcapableofanyrealimprovement;yettherearevariousadditionsthatmaybemadetoit,andthatfrequentlyaremadetoit,whichmayperhapsbethoughtbysometorenderitmorepalatable,orotherwisetoimproveit。Suetmay,forinstance,beadded,andthereisnosuetpuddingwhateversuperiortoit;andasnosauceisnecessarywithasuetpudding,theexpenceforthesuetwillbenearlybalancedbythesavingofbutter。Toapuddingofthesizeofthatjustdescribed,inthecompositionofwhichthreepoundsofIndianmealwereused,onepoundofsuetwillbesufficient;andthis,ingeneral,willnotcostmorethanfromfivepencetosixpence,eveninLondon;——andthebutterforsaucetoaplainpuddingofthesamesizewouldcostnearlyasmuch。Thesuetpuddingwillindeedberatherthecheapestofthetwo,forthepoundofsuetwilladdapoundinweighttothepudding;——whereasthebutterwillonlyaddfiveounces。

Asthepudding,madeplain,weighing101/16lb。cost53/8pence,thesamepudding,withtheadditionofonepoundofsuet,wouldweigh111/16lb。andwouldcost111/8pence,——reckoningthesuetatsixpencethepound——HenceitappearsthatIndiansuetpuddingmaybemadeinLondonforaboutonepennyapound。

Wheatenbread,whichisbynomeanssopalatable,andcertainlynothalfsonutritive,nowcostssomethingmorethanthreepencethepound:andtothismaybeadded,thatdrybreadcanhardlybeeatenalone;butofsuetpuddingaverycomfortablemealmaybemadewithoutanythingelse。

ApuddingingreatreputeinallpartsofNorthAmerica,iswhatiscalledanapplepudding。ThisisanIndianpudding,sometimeswith,andsometimeswithoutsuet,withdriedcuttingsofsweetapplesmixedwithit;andwheneatenwithbutter,itismostdeliciousFood。Theseapples,whichareparedassoonastheyaregatheredfromthetree,andbeingcutintosmallpieces,arefreedfromtheircores,andthoroughlydriedinthesun,maybekeptgoodforseveralyears。Theproportionsoftheingredientsusedinmakingtheseapplepuddingsarevarious;but,ingeneral,aboutonepoundofdriedapplesismixedwiththreepoundsofmeal,——threequartersofapoundofmolasses,——halfanounceofsalt,andfivepintsofboilingwater。

InAmerica,variouskindsofberries,foundwildinthewoods,suchashuckle-berries,belberries,whortle-berries,etc。aregatheredanddried,andafterwardsusedasingredientsinIndianpuddings:anddriedcherriesandplumsmaybemadeuseofinthesamemanner。

AlltheseIndianpuddingshavethisadvantageincommon,thattheyareverygoodWARMEDUP——Theywillallkeepgoodseveraldays;andwhencutintothinslicesandtoasted,areanexcellentsubstituteforbread。

Itwilldoubtlessberemarked,thatincomputingtheexpenceofprovidingthesedifferentkindsofpuddings,Ihavetakennonoticeoftheexpencewhichwillbenecessaryforfueltocookthem——Thisisanarticlewhichoughtundoubtedlytobetakenintotheaccount。Thereasonofmynotdoingithereisthis:——

Having,inthecourseofmyExperimentsonHeat,foundmeanstoperformallthecommonoperationsofcookerywithasurprisinglysmallexpenceoffuel,Ifindthattheexpenceinquestion,whentheproperarrangementsaremadeforsavingfuel,willbeverytrifling。Andfarther,asImeansoontopublishmyTreatiseontheManagementofHeat,inwhichIshallgivethemostampledirectionsrelativetothemechanicalarrangementsofkitchenfire-places,andthebestformsforallkindsofkitchenutensils,IwasdesirousnottoanticipateasubjectwhichwillmorenaturallyfinditsplaceinanotherEssay——InthemeantimeI

wouldobserve,forthesatisfactionofthosewhomayhavedoubtsrespectingthesmallnessoftheexpencenecessaryforfuelincookingforthePoor,thattheresultofmanyexperiments,ofwhichIshallhereafterpublishaparticularaccount,hasprovedinthemostsatisfactorymanner,thatwhenFoodispreparedinlargequantities,andcookedinkitchensproperlyarranged,theexpenseforfueloughtnevertoamounttomorethantwopercent。

ofthecostoftheFood,evenwherevictualsofthecheapestkindareprovided,suchasiscommonlyusedinfeedingthePoor。

InthePublicKitchenoftheHouseofIndustryatMunichtheexpenceforfuelislessthanonepercent。ofthecostoftheFood,asmaybeseeninthecomputation,page206,ChapterIII。

ofthisEssay:anditoughtnottobegreaterinmanypartsofGreatBritain。

WithregardtothepriceatwhichIndianCorncanbeimportedintothiscountryfromNorthAmericaintimeofpeace,thefollowinginformation,whichIprocuredthroughthemediumofafriend,fromCaptainScott,amostworthyman,whohasbeenconstantlyemployedabovethirtyyearsasmasterofashipinthetradebetweenLondonandBostonintheStateofMassachusetts,willdoubtlessbeconsideredasauthentic[19]。

Thefollowingarethequestionswhichwereputtohim,——withhisanswerstothem:

Q。Whatisthefreight,perton,ofmerchandisefromBostoninNorthAmericatoLondonintimeofpeace?——A。Fortyshillings(sterling)。

Q。Whatisthefreight,perbarrel,ofIndianCorn?——A。Fiveshillings。

Q。Howmuchpercent。ispaidforinsurancefromBostontoLondonintimeofpeace?——A。Twopercent。

Q。WhatisthemediumpriceofIndianCorn,perbushel,inNewEngland?——A。Twoshillingsandsixpence。

Q。Whatisthepriceofitatthistime?——A。Threeshillingsandsixpence。

Q。HowmanybushelsofIndianCornarereckonedtoabarrel?——

A。FourFromthisaccountitappearsthatIndianCornmight,intimeofpeace,beimportedintothiscountryandsoldhereforlessthanfourshillingsthebushel;——andthatitoughtnottocostatthismomentmuchmorethanfiveshillingsabushel。

Ifitbeimportedincasks,(whichiscertainlythebestwayofpackingit,)asthefreightofabarrelcontainingfourbushelsisfiveshillings,thisgives1s。3d。abushelforfreight;andifweaddonepennyabushelforinsurance,thiswillmaketheamountoffreightandinsurance1s。4d。which,addedtotheprimecostoftheCorninAmerica,(2s。6d。perbushelinthetimeofpeace,and3s。6d。atthistime,)willbringitto3s。10d。perbushelintimeofpeace,and4s。10datthispresentmoment。

AbushelofIndianCornofthegrowthofNewEnglandwasfoundtoweigh61lb。;butwewillsupposeittoweighatamediumonly60

lb。perbushel;andwewillalsosupposethattoeachbushelofCornwhengroundthereis9lb。ofbran,whichissurelyaverylargeallowance,and1lb。ofwasteingrindingandsifting;——

thiswillleave50lb。offlourforeachbusheloftheCorn;

andasitwillcost,intimeofpeace,only3s。10d。or46pence,thisgivesforeachpoundofflour46/50ofapenny,or33/4

farthingsverynearly。

IfthepriceoftheIndianCornperbushelbetakenat4s。10d。

whatitoughttocostatthistimeinLondon,withoutanybountyonimportationbeingbroughtintotheaccount,——thepriceoftheflourwillbe4s。10dequalto58pencefor50lb。inweight,or11/6pennythepound,whichislessthanonethirdofthepresentpriceofwheatflour。Rice,whichiscertainlynotmorenourishingthanIndianCorn,costs41/2pencethepound。

If1/13ofthevalueofIndianCornbeaddedtodefraytheexpenceofgrindingit,thepriceoftheflourwillnoteventhenbegreaterinLondonthanonepennythepoundintimeofpeace,andaboutonepennyfarthingatthepresenthighpriceofthatgraininNorthAmerica。Henceitappears,thatinstatingthemeanpriceinLondonoftheflourofIndianCornatonepennyfarthing,Ihaveratherratedittoohighthantoolow。

Withregardtotheexpenseofimportingit,theremaybe,anddoubtlesstherearefrequentlyotherexpencesbesidesthoseoffreightandinsurance;but,ontheotherhand,averyconsiderablepartoftheexpencesattendingtheimportationofitmaybereimbursedbytheprofitsarisingfromthesaleofthebarrelsinwhichitisimported,asIhavebeeninformedbyapersonwhoimportsiteveryyear,andalwaysavailshimselfofthatadvantage。

OnecircumstancemuchinfavouroftheintroductionofIndianCornintocommonuseinthiscountryisthefacilitywithwhichitmaybehadinanyquantity。Itgrowsinallquartersoftheglobe,andalmostineveryclimate;andinhotcountriestwoorthreecropsofitmayberaisedfromthesamegroundinthecourseofayear——ItsucceedsequallywellinthecoldregionsofCanada;——inthetemperateclimesoftheUnitedStatesofAmerica;——andintheburningheatsofthetropics;anditmightbehadfromAfricaandAsiaaswellasfromAmerica。Andwereiteventrue,——whatInevercanbepersuadedtobelieve,——thatitwouldbeimpossibletointroduceitasanarticleofFoodinthiscountry,itmightatleastbeusedasfodderforcattle,whoseaversiontoit,Iwillventuretosay,wouldnotbefoundtobeUNCONQUERABLE。

Oatsnowcostneartwopencethepoundinthiscountry。

IndianCorn,whichwouldcostbutalittlemorethanhalfasmuch,wouldcertainlybemuchmorenourishing,evenforhorses,aswellasforhornedcattle;——andasforhogsandpoultry,theyoughtnevertobefedwithanyothergrain。ThosewhohavetastedtheporkandthepoultryfattedonIndianCornwillreadilygivetheirassenttothisopinion。

CHAPTER。VII。

ReceiptsforpreparingvariousKindsofcheapFood。

OfMACCARONI。

OfPOTATOES。

Approvedreceiptsforboilingpotatoes。

Ofpotatoepuddings。

Ofpotatoedumplings。

Ofboiledpotatoeswithasauce。

Ofpotatoesalad。

OfBARLEY

Ismuchmorenutritiousthanwheat。

Barleymeal,agoodsubstituteforpearlbarley,formakingsoups。

Generaldirectionsforpreparingcheapsoups。

Receiptforthecheapestsoupthatcanbemade。

OfSAMP

MethodofpreparingitIsanexcellentSubstituteforBread。

OfbrownSoup。

OfRYEBREAD。

WhenIbeganwritingtheforegoingChapterofthisEssay,IhadhopesofbeingabletoprocuresatisfactoryinformationrespectingthemannerinwhichthemaccaronieatenbythePoorinItaly,andparticularlyinthekingdomofNaples,isprepared;——

butthoughIhavetakenmuchpainsinmakingtheseinquiries,mysuccessinthemhasnotbeensuchasIcouldhavewished:——

Theprocess,Ihaveoftenbeentold,isverysimple;andfromtheverylowpriceatwhichmaccaroniissold,readycooked,totheLazzaroniinthestreetsofNaples,itcannotbeexpensive——

ThereisabetterkindofmaccaroniwhichispreparedandsoldbythenunsinsomeoftheconventsinItaly,whichismuchdearer;

butthissortwouldinanycountrybetooexpensivetobeusedasFoodforthePoor——ItishowevernotdearerthanmanykindsofFoodusedbythePoorinthiscountry;andasitisverypalatableandwholesome,andmaybeusedinavarietyofways,areceiptforpreparingitmayperhapsnotbeunacceptabletomanyofmyreaders。

AReceiptformakingthatKindofMaccaronicalledinItalyTAGLIATI。

Takeanynumberoffresh-laideggsandbreakthemintoabowlortray,beatthemupwithaspoon,butnottoafroth,——addofthefinestwheatflourasmuchasisnecessarytoformadoughoftheconsistenceofpaste——Workthispastewellwitharolling-pin;——

rollitoutintoverythinleaves;——laytenortwelveoftheseleavesoneupontheother,andwithasharpknifecutthemintoveryfinethreads——Thesethreads(which,ifthemassisofaproperconsistency,willnotadheretoeachother)aretobelaidonacleanboard,oronpaper,anddriedintheair。

Thismaccaroni,(orcutpasteasitiscalledinGermany,whereitisingreatrepute,)maybeeateninvariousways;butthemostcommonwayofusingitistoeatitwithmilkinsteadofbread,andwithchickenbroth,andotherbrothsandsoups,withwhichitisboiled。Withpropercareitmaybekeptgoodformanymonths。Itissometimesfriedinbutter,andinthiswayofcookingit,itformsamostexcellentdishindeed;inferior,Ibelieve,tonodishofflourthatcanbemade。Itisnot,however,averycheapdish,aseggsandbutterarebothexpensivearticlesinmostcountries。

AninferiourkindofcutpasteissometimespreparedbythePoorinGermany,whichismadesimplyofwaterandwheatflour,andthishasmoreresemblancetocommonmaccaronithanthatjustdescribed;andmight,inmanycases,beusedinsteadofit。Idonotthink,however,thatitcanbekeptlongwithoutspoiling;

whereasmaccaroni,asiswellknown,maybekeptgoodforagreatlengthoftime——ThoughIhavenotbeenabletogetanysatisfactoryinformationrelativetotheprocessofmakingmaccaroni,yetIhavemadesomeexperimentstoascertaintheexpenseofcookingit,andofthecostofthecheesenecessaryforgivingitarelish。

Halfapoundofmaccaroni,whichwaspurchasedatanItalianshopinLondon,andwhichcosttenpence[20],wasboiledtillitwassufficientlydone,namely,aboutonehourandanhalf,when,beingtakenoutoftheboilingwaterandweighed,itwasfoundtoweighthirty-oneouncesandanhalf,oronepoundfifteenouncesandanhalf。Thequantityofcheeseemployedtogivearelishtothisdishofboiledmaccaroni,(andwhichwasgratedoveritafteritwasputintothedish,)wasoneounce,andcosttwofarthings。

MaccaroniisconsideredasverycheapFoodinthosecountrieswhereitispreparedinthegreatestperfection,andwhereitisincommonuseamongthelowerclassesofsociety;andaswheat,ofwhichgrainitisalwaysmade,isastaplecommodityinthiscountry,itwouldcertainlybeworthwhiletotakesometroubletointroducethemanufactureofit,particularlyasitisalreadybecomeanarticleofluxuryuponthetablesoftherich,andasgreatquantitiesofitareannuallyimportedandsoldhereatamostexorbitantprice[21]:——ButmaccaroniisbynomeansthecheapestFoodthatcanbeprovidedforfeedingthePoor,inthisisland;——nordoIbelieveitissoinanycountry——Polenta,orIndianCorn,ofwhichsomuchhasalreadybeensaid,——

andPotatoes,ofwhichtoomuchcannotbesaid,——arebothmuchbetteradapted,inallrespects,forthatpurpose——Maccaroniwouldhowever,Iampersuaded,coulditbepreparedinthiscountry,bemuchlessexpensivethanmanykindsofFoodnowcommonlyusedbyourPoor;andconsequentlymightbeofconsiderableusetothem。

WithregardtoPotatoestheyarenowsogenerallyknownandtheirusefulnessissouniversallyacknowledged,thatitwouldbeawasteoftimetoattempttorecommendthem——Ishallthereforecontentmyselfwithmerelygivingreceiptsforafewcheapdishesinwhichtheyareemployedasaprincipalingredient。

ThoughthereisnoarticleusedasFoodofwhichagreatervarietyofwell-tastedandwholesomedishesmaybepreparedthanofpotatoes,yetitseemstobetheunanimousopinionofthosewhoaremostacquaintedwiththeseusefulvegetables,thatthebestwayofcookingthemistoboilthemsimply,andwiththeirskinson,inwater——Butthemannerofboilingthemisbynomeansamatterofindifference——ThisprocessisbetterunderstoodinIreland,wherebymuchthegreaterpartoftheinhabitantslivealmostentirelyonthisFood,thananywhereelse。

Thisiswhatmighthavebeenexpected;——butthosewhohaveneverconsideredwithattentiontheextremeslownessoftheprogressofnationalimprovements,WHERENOBODYTAKESPAINSTOACCELERATE

THEM,willdoubtlessbesurprisedwhentheyaretoldthatinmostpartsofEngland,thoughtheuseofpotatoesalloverthecountryhasforsomanyyearsbeengeneral,yet,tothishour,few,comparatively,whoeatthem,knowhowtodressthemproperly——

Theinhabitantsofthosecountrieswhichlieonthesea-coastoppositetoIrelandhaveadoptedtheIrishmethodofboilingpotatoes;butitismorethanprobablethatacenturyatleastwouldhavebeenrequiredforthoseimprovementstohavemadetheirwaythroughtheisland,hadnotthepresentalarmsonaccountofascarcityofgrainrousedthepublic,andfixedtheirattentionuponasubjecttoolongneglectedinthisenlightenedcountry。

Theintroductionofimprovementstendingtoincreasethecomfortsandinnocentenjoymentsofthatnumerousandusefulclassofmankindwhoearntheirbreadbythesweatoftheirbrow,isanobjectnotmoreinterestingtoabenevolentmindthanitisimportantintheeyesofanenlightenedstatesman。

Thereare,withoutdoubt,GREATMENwhowillsmileatseeingtheseobservationsconnectedwithasubjectsohumbleandobscureastheboilingofpotatoes,butGOODMENwillfeelthatthesubjectisnotunworthyoftheirattention。

Thefollowingdirectionsforboilingpotatoes,whichIhavecopiedfromalateReportoftheBoardofAgriculture,Icanrecommendfrommyownexperience:

OntheboilingofPotatoessoastobeeatasBread。

ThereisnothingthatwouldtendmoretopromotetheconsumptionofpotatoesthantohavethepropermodeofpreparingthemasFoodgenerallyknown——InLondon,thisislittleattendedto;

whereasinLancashireandIrelandtheboilingofpotatoesisbroughttoverygreatperfectionindeed。Whenpreparedinthefollowingmanner,ifthequalityoftherootisgood,theymaybeeatasbread,apracticenotunusualinIreland——Thepotatoesshouldbe,asmuchaspossible,ofthesamesize,andthelargeandsmallonesboiledseparately——Theymustbewashedclean,and,withoutparingorscraping,putinapotwithcoldwater,notsufficienttocoverthem,astheywillproducethemselves,beforetheyboil,aconsiderablequantityoffluid——Theydonotadmitbeingputintoavesselofboilingwaterlikegreens——

Ifthepotatoesaretolerablylarge,itwillbenecessary,assoonastheybegintoboil,tothrowinsomecoldwater,andoccasionallytorepeatit,tillthepotatoesareboiledtotheheart,(whichwilltakefromhalfanhourtoanhourandaquarter,accordingtotheirsize,)theywillotherwisecrack,andbursttopiecesontheoutside,whilsttheinsidewillbenearlyinacrudestate,andconsequentlyveryunpalatableandunwholesome——Duringtheboiling,throwinginalittlesaltoccasionallyisfoundagreatimprovement,anditiscertainthattheslowertheyarecookedthebetter——Whenboiled,pouroffthewater,andevaporatethemoisture,byreplacingthevesselinwhichthepotatoeswereboiledoncemoreoverthefire——

Thismakesthemremarkablydryandmealy——Theyshouldbebroughttothetablewiththeskinson,andeatwithalittlesalt,asbread——Nothingbutexperiencecansatisfyanyonehowsuperiorthepotatoeis,thusprepared,ifthesortisgoodandmeally——Somepreferroastingpotatoes;butthemodeabovedetailed,extractedpartlyfromtheinterestingpaperofSamuelHayes,Esquire,ofAvondale,inIreland,(ReportontheCultureofPotatoes,P。103。),andpartlyfromtheLancashirereprintedReport(p。63。),andothercommunicationstotheBoard,isatleastequal,ifnotsuperior——Somehavetriedboilingpotatoesinsteam,thinkingbythatprocessthattheymustimbibelesswater——Butimmersioninwatercausesthedischargeofacertainsubstance,whichthesteamaloneisincapableofdoing,andbyretainingwhich,theflavouroftherootisinjured,andtheyafterwardsbecomedrybybeingputoverthefireasecondtimewithoutwater——Withalittlebutter,ormilk,offish,theymakeanexcellentmess。

Thesedirectionsaresoclear,thatitishardlypossibletomistakethem;andthosewhofollowthemexactlywillfindtheirpotatoessurprisinglyimproved,andwillbeconvincedthatthemannerofboilingthemisamatterofmuchgreaterimportancethanhashithertobeenimagined。

Werethismethodofboilingpotatoesgenerallyknownincountrieswherethesevegetablesareonlybeginningtomaketheirwayintocommonuse,——asinBavaria,forinstance,——Ihavenodoubtbutitwouldcontributemorethananythingelsetotheirspeedyintroduction。

Thefollowingaccountofanexperiment,latelymadeinoneoftheparishesofthismetropolis(London),wascommunicatedtomebyafriend,whohaspermittedmetopublishit——Itwillservetoshow,——whatIammostanxioustomakeappear,——thattheprejudicesofthePoorinregardtotheirFoodARENOT

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